VOL. 1/JUNE 4-JUNE 10, 2015
REMEMBERING
THE PRINCE ‘KELA-KELAAN’
THE VIEW FROM DOWN HERE
FREE TO MOVE AROUND
FROM THE EDITOR
Religious tolerance A predominantly Hindu island, Bali has never been known as an intolerant place for other faiths. Violent religious conflict is unknown in the island’s history. In fact, the historical narrative of the tiny island is dotted with stories of Hindu kings who offered land and protection to Muslim communities and of Muslim warriors who gave the ultimate sacrifice to their Hindu patrons. In Karangasem, members of age-old Muslim settlements speak fluently in high Balinese and participate in temple festivals, while in Kintamani and Bedugul, Chinese shrines and Buddhist stupa stand inside Hindu temples, while in Palasari and Dalung, Catholics and Protestants have built their churches in the Balinese style. Against this historical backdrop, Bali has grown into a place where a celebration of any religion is always welcomed as a public spectacle instead of a nuisance. That is one of the things that makes this island a great destination. This edition’s cover story focuses on the celebration of Waisak, the most important religious festival for Buddhists and a public holiday for all other Indonesians.
Cover Photo: Agung Parameswara
06 Free to move around
— The Editor
CONTENTS
04
The fine art of cocktail making
05
‘Kela-kelaan’
07 Keliki painting school 08 Remembering the prince 10 Communal carpentry solutions: 11 Sustainable From the Ground Up 12 The view from down here 16 Jamie’s Italian Kuta Beach opens
PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDITORIAL AND GENERAL DEPARTMENT Jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 Renon Denpasar Bali
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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi
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Images
‘NEGTEGAN’ “A PRE-HARVEST RITUAL IN AN ANCIENT VILLAGE” WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA
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T
aro, a village some 20 kilometers north of Ubud, occupies a special place in local mythology and history. It is said that in the eighth century, Markandeya, a revered and powerful Hindu priest, left his hermitage in East Java and relocated to Bali after receiving divine instruction. He founded Taro as his new hermitage and a place for hundreds of his followers to live. Markandeya was the first Hindu sage who set foot in Bali and was attributed for, among other things, building Besakih, the mother temple, and introducing agriculture. Taro at that time was a sort of capital for the whole island. The sage taught people about rituals and offerings, as well as about growing rice and the maintenance of paddy fields. Today, rice fields account for 70 percent of the village’s area and the villagers are still performing rituals outlined centuries ago by Markandeya. One of these is negtegan, literally to make it steady, an annual preharvest ritual to ensure a bountiful crop. The ritual took place recently one afternoon with the participation of the women of Taro’s four hamlets. Each of them carried jerimpen, a special offering of cakes and fruit arranged on a slim, tubular container. They gathered at Sanghyang Raung temple to pray before walking together to Gunung Raung temple, the village’s first place of worship.
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Spirit
THE FINE ART OF COCKTAIL MAKING WORDS AND PHOTOS CHRIS O’CONNOR
B
ali’s active bar scene is seeing seriously good cocktails and creatively crafted drinks served up by a swelling pool of talented local and international mixologists and bartenders, who often use local ingredients to create a unique Balinese twist on the classic drinks of yesteryear. Serious inter-bar competition, a driving and global feature of great bartending, has mixologists continually searching for new inspiration. Last week saw the inaugural Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Mixology Competition take place, in collaboration with Diageo, the world’s largest producer of spirits, with brands such as Smirnoff and Johnnie Walker. The competition built on the first round of the annual World Class Bartending Competition held by Diageo last March and the eager participants included 13 of the best bartenders and mixologists from Bali’s prestigious resorts, namely W Retreat and Spa Bali Seminyak, The Ritz-Carlton Bali, Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Bulgari Resort Bali, Conrad Bali, The Breezes and host Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort. The panel of judges comprised area manager of Diageo Jessie Judi Mara, Ku De Ta Bali’s food and beverages manager Bruce Bartholomew and DJ Anastasia. The judging criteria encompassed technique, presentation, creativity, aroma and taste and expression to spirit. The laidback Balinese attitude of the contestants did little to mask the serious and high level of competition. Each bartender’s performance and drinks was not only subject to the critical eye of the panel but to the jovial and intense scrutiny of his peers, wildly cheering and clapping when they approved. The party atmosphere was heightened by a DJ spinning tunes between each contestant round. The first round had contestants make and present a signature drink, for which they went to great lengths to explain the inspiration, style and content as the cocktail was offered for tasting. Presentations ranged from extravagant to simple and understated. Difficult deliberation eventually resulted in five finalists, all Balinese, comprising Ida Bagus
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“BALI’S MIXOLOGISTS STRUT THEIR STUFF IN A FIERCE COMPETITION”
Agung Bawartha and the eventual winner, I Made Agus Borti Jessika, from W; I Wayan Juni Antara from the Sofitel, I Kadek Pramana Putra from the Ritz-Carlton and I Putu Maharyantha from the Ayana. With the afternoon finals dedicated to wholly locally inspired cocktails, ideas were drawn from jamu (herbal medicinal drinks) to disappearing rice fields, and the mixing, shaking and combinations of spirits, spices and mixers produced some outstanding results. Winner Borti created Morning above the Clouds in the first round, using Ron Zacapa rum, Tia Maria, espresso and local spices. Inspired by the rum being matured 2,300 meters above sea level, he presented a cocktail on stones — representing a mountain — with dry ice to form clouds. Taking from the Balinese morning ritual of coffee and fried bananas, caramelized banana was utilized for a garnish. Such creativity resulted not only in bragging rights but also prizes including bottles of Don Julio tequila, weekend brunch passes for Sofitel Bali’s Brunch a la Francaise at Cut Catch Cucina, a trophy and an iPhone 5. Borti commented, “It’s been great fun, we are all friends, but it has a very serious element and we all like to express ourselves […] it’s great to be the winner.”
Savor
‘KELA-KELAAN’ “SWEET, CRISPY SNACKS FROM TENGANAN VILLAGE” WORDS AND PHOTOS BRAM SETIAWAN
B
ali has many traditional cakes and snacks and most villages boast of their own special recipes. Large varieties of traditional snacks and cakes, such as lak-lak (a pancake-like cake made of rice flour served with brown sugar caramel), wajik (brown sugar, coconut milk and sticky rice) and klepon (sticky rice balls filled with palm sugar caramel) are sold in traditional markets across the island. Tenganan Pengringsingan village, one of the oldest villages on the island and home to a community of indigenous Balinese, can show off its sweet, crispy snack called kela-kelaan, which is found nowhere else on the island. Komang Andayani, a resident of Tenganan and a cake maker, said making kela-kelaan was simple. Rice flour was mixed with a teaspoon of sea salt and water to make a dough, which was then steamed.
The steamed dough was sliced into circles and then fried for ten minutes. “Don’t fry the dough for more than 10 minutes or it will be overcooked, going dry and dark,” Andayani said. The fried cakes were placed in flat container and then brown sugar caramel was poured over them in a wavy form. Kela-kelaan are made especially for certain rituals, including those preceding the annual Pandanus war. “During the ngestiti ritual [swinging ritual for girls], the cakes are made as special offerings for the subak temple in the rice fields,” she said. For this occasion, Andayani had prepared 15 kilograms of rice flour to make 200 kela-kelaan. “Every household in Tenganan village will make this cake, which can be kept for up to one month.”
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Soul
FREE TO MOVE AROUND “APPROPRIATE HOME RENOVATIONS CHANGE THE LIVES OF THE DISABLED” WORDS LUH DE SURIYANI PHOTOS ANTON MUHAJIR
I
Nyoman Srinawa has never forgotten the day when he fell from a tall palm tree while collecting sap from the flower buds to make tuak, a local liquor. He hit the ground damaging his legs so badly he was left almost paralyzed. That was 20 years ago, but the bitter memory has haunted him for years. After months of treatment, Srinawa started to recover but had to use a wheelchair to
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move around his humble home in Banjar Pidpid Kaler, Abang village in Karangasem regency, eastern Bali. His relatives were heartbroken to see the once energetic and active man unable to do the job he loved dearly — climbing palm trees to produce tuak. His parents took care of Srinawa until their deaths a few years later. Since then, for almost 10 years, I Wayan Wana, has taken over the care of his disabled
older brother. Although he is used to moving around in a wheelchair, Srinawa’s house was too cramped to get to a bathroom, the kitchen or other parts of his tiny home. Srinawa is not alone. Perhaps hundreds of people with physical disabilities live in environments that prevent them from resuming active and useful lives. Together with 22 volunteers, Puspadi Bali Foundation, a non-profit organization that provides advocacy and empowerment for people with physical disabilities, has taken the initiative to make over the homes of these people. With funding from Hands Up, a British donor organization, and individual donors, the foundation has started renovating three houses in Abang, Sibetan and Umanyar villages. Under the program “Bukan Bedah Rumah Biasa” (Extraordinary Home Makeover), Srinawa’s house had a wheelchair ramp fitted, the height of the kitchen sink and stove adjusted, disabled-appropriate bathroom facilities installed and a wide sliding door big enough for his wheelchair. “Now, I don’t have to wait for my brother to move my wheelchair,” said Srinawa, who is now learning to repair shoes. Nengah Latra, director of Puspadi Bali foundation, continues to encourage donor agencies and volunteers to join the program.
“We used to provide wheelchairs and other items to help people with disabilities but we must also ensure that all this equipment is working properly, especially in the receivers’ homes.” In Umanyar village, the foundation is renovating a house belonging to a family with eight children. Their home was a humble hut with only two bedrooms. Two of the children suffer from cerebral palsy, a permanent movement and posture disorder that results in physical and mental limitations and is attributed to problems during fetal or infant brain development. The two children — Gede Jati, 10, and his little sister Ni Ketut Nonik — now use wheelchairs. They can hardly speak and just cry or shout when they need something. The foundation has prepared an accessible house for the family, with a wheelchair ramp to the bedroom, kitchen and bathroom. “We are getting old now and it is difficult to carry our children from their beds to the wheelchairs,” explained Luh Teni, the mother. The program provides a door to a world of opportunities for people with physical disabilities and their caring families. There are many houses that require improvements so people with disabilities can reach their full potential and lead a fulfilling life. They are waiting for your support and solidarity.
Art
KELIKI
painting school “HOME FOR YOUNG AND ASPIRING RURAL YOUTHS” WORDS AND PHOTOS ANGGARA MAHENDRA
E
ight-year old Kros, an elementary school student from Keliki village in Gianyar, was ready to make the finishing touch to a painting of Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of knowledge and wisdom, before it was handed over to its potential buyer, a foreign tourist. It had taken him more than two weeks to create this painting, from the initial sketch to the beautifully detailed drawing. Kros, or I Wayan Rudiana, is one of the enthusiastic students of the I Wayan Gama Painting School in Keliki village, Tegalalang, Gianyar regency, some 60 kilometers northeast of Denpasar.
Painter I Wayan Gama, who has practiced the Keliki painting style since he was eight years old, established the school to encourage local youths to learn this distinguished style of Balinese painting. The Keliki painting style embraces the famous Ubud and Batuan painting styles. Developed by a local farmer, I Ketut Sana, who lived in a small village close to Ubud, the Keliki style usually comprises small paintings of Hindu deities, traditional village life and figures from Balinese Hindu legends. Sana derived the style from a combination of the vigor and youthfulness of the Ubud style and the meticulous detail of the Batuan style with its ink and watercolor drawings. In the early 1970s, Sana learned both styles from their masters — I Gusti Nyoman Sudara Lempad for the Ubud style and I Wayan Rajin for the Batuan style. Gama, who was born in 1982, became one of the Keliki style proponents, learning it at an early age and continuing his formal art education at Sukawati art school. “Before the Bali bombings in October 2002 and 2005, there were only a handful of Keliki painters, but now around 45 percent of these artists have changed professions. Some work as construction laborers and farmers,” Gama said. In 2005, Gama and his colleagues opened the painting school in Keliki to revitalize the style and groom new talent in the village. There
are eight teachers passing on their skills to dozens of Keliki children. “It takes around two to three years to master the Keliki painting style,” said one of the teachers, Wayan Aryana, also known as Nano. Students have to learn the various stages required before they start their own painting projects, first learning to sketch, select objects such as Hindu gods and goddesses, traditional Balinese dancers and figures from wayang or puppet stories. The students continue by learning to place details and color in their paintings. The teachers usually sell their work and about 5 to 10 percent of the sales go to funding the school. Meanwhile, students who sell their art receive the full payment. “This encourages them to work more and to buy painting equipment, such as canvas, ink, watercolors and acrylic paints,” Gama said. Paintings are sold at between Rp 50,000 and Rp 800,000 (US$3.77-$60.41) per small painting, depending on the quality. Gama said the school was also a strong attempt to withstand the influx of tourism, where tourists just wanted to buy low quality copies of wellknown paintings. “We have to continue working hard to protect and preserve genuine Balinese painting styles. The school’s students are the guardians of the Keliki painting style, which we believe will survive and thrive amid the modernization and industrialization of local arts.”
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Cover Story
Remembering
THE PRINCE “A BEAUTIFUL CELEBRATION OF PEACE AND COMPASSION”
WORDS: I WAYAN JUNIARTA PHOTOS: AGUNG PARAMESWARA AND ANGGARA MAHENDRA
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The sky was clear on Tuesday as thousands of Buddhists flocked to vihara (Buddhist temple) and konco (Chinese temple where Chinese deities, Taoist figures, Buddhist sages and Confucian tradition share a similar reverence) across Bali to celebrate Tri Suci Waisak, a holy day to remember the birth, enlightenment and parinibbana (ultimate freedom) of Siddharta Gautama the Buddha. The dark clouds and erratic showers that had haunted the island over the previous days were nowhere to be seen, replaced by a bright sun that intensified the beauty of richly decorated, brightly painted konco and the gold-colored Buddha statues. In Vihara Buddha Dharma on Jl. Sunset Road, the celebration started in the morning. Devotees arranged offerings of fresh fruit and flowers before towering Buddha effigies at the main altar. A wooden panel hung above the effigies bears a mantra in Balinese script: “Namo Sanghyang Adi Budaya”, a salutation to the highest Buddha. Others lighted scented candles and incense in front of a wooden display case housing dozens of tiny figurines of the enlightened one. A joint prayer session saw the devotees solemnly offer their respect and adoration to Siddharta Gautama, a royal prince who forsook his palatial luxury and loving family to embark on a lengthy journey, which saw him experiencing pain, hunger, fear, isolation and frustration, to find the ultimate answer to humankind’s never-ending miseries. He eventually found the answers, best summed up in the Three Universal Truths, the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path, and spent the rest of his life teaching others to seek their own liberation from existence-related suffering. In the following centuries, his teachings, known simply as Buddhism, spread far and wide and attracted some of the best minds in human history. Buddhism’s cold logic and emphasis on an individual’s discipline and responsibility have become more appealing to the present generation, most of whom are disillusioned by the notions of predestined life and the existence of God as a super being that dictates everything and to everyone. At the end of the prayer session, Bhikku,
ordained priests who have pledged to follow Buddha’s path, sprinkled holy water upon the devotees. Outside the vihara’s main hall, another ritual soon drew the attention of devotees, particularly the children. A priest and his assistants performed the bathing of the Buddha, repeatedly pouring fresh water on a statue of baby Buddha. The statue is of a tiny baby with a radiant face. He stands firmly with his finger pointing at the sky. The statue obviously depicts an event taking place a short time after the birth of Siddharta. Legend has it that the infant stood and took seven steps, where lotus flowers immediately blossomed under his feet, before he proclaimed: “I am chief of the world. Eldest am I in the world. Foremost am I in the world. This is the last birth. There is now no more coming to be.” “Waisak always bring tears to my eyes because it is not a celebration dedicated to a deity with supernatural powers. It is instead a celebration of a human being, who through discipline and resoluteness succeeded in overcoming all barriers to become an enlightened one. I think the core message of this day is that each and every one of us, after all we are all human being like Siddharta, could achieve a similar state of compassion and peacefulness, as long as we possess the required discipline and perseverance,” devotee Irvan Karuna said. In other vihara and konco, devotees prayed,
meditated and released birds into the sky to remember the prince who taught universal compassion and the cessation of self. His teachings blossomed in Bali around the eighth century and many scholars believe that the arrival of Buddhism to the island predated Hinduism, the predominant faith of contemporary Balinese. In Bali, the teachings of Hinduism and Buddhism peacefully merged into what is now known as Balinese Hinduism, or, to the locals, Siwa-Buda.
Any major Balinese Hindu religious ceremony will require the presence of at least three high priests: one from Siwa religious tradition, one from Waisnawa and one from Buda. The Buda high priests are direct descendants of Danghyang Astapaka, a Buddhist sage who was invited to Bali in the 15th century by the island’s great ruler Dalem Waturenggong. His descendants now live in a small village in Karangasem called Budakeling, literally Black Buda.
June 4, 2015
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Sight
COMMUNAL CARPENTRY
“BUILDING A MASSIVE WOODEN SWING IN TENGANAN” WORDS AND PHOTOS BRAM SETIAWAN
O
ne sunny morning, the men of the island’s oldest indigenous community in Tenganan Penggringsingan village in east Bali gathered in the center of the village to work on a special project — constructing a gigantic wooden swing to be used in a major ritual. A handful of men dressed in traditional long cloths carried a huge log cut from the nearby forest. Ketut Sudiastika, head of Tenganan village, said the wood was from a cempaka tree, which was strong, durable, long lasting and weather resistant. The first step was to decide the location of the swing and to gather all the materials, including two huge trunks for support, lumber and natural ropes. The villagers would not use modern tools and equipment for this project. All the materials were provided by Mother Nature, which they believe was bestowed by the deities. The communal work on the wooden swing demonstrated highly sophisticated carpentry, a skill acquired over the centuries. The men later erected two giant trunks to support the swing, using ropes to help. The swing was constructed for the annual Usaba Sambah ritual, which will take place on June 7, and will stand there for 18 days. On the night of May 29, a pre-ritual ceremony called ngayunan damar was held
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for the completion of the swing. However, the swing remained covered by palm leaves to demonstrate that it could not be used before the next major ritual started. Usamba Sambah is a sacred annual rite of the village and is a celebration for youths. The swing ceremony is the highlight and sees boys and girls climb the tall wooden structure, with the boys rotating the wheel three times toward the north and three times toward the south. The girls swing high above the ground. The rotation of the wheel symbolizes the unity of the sun and the earth and also reflects human endeavor to achieve harmony and balance in life. “Life is like a spinning wheel. It rotates in accordance with our fate and deeds,” said the village head. For young Tenganese boys and girls, the ritual is a perfect site to look for their future spouse.
Soul
“ENCOURAGING YOUTHS TO BE PART OF THE SOLUTION” WORDS AND PHOTOS LUH DE SURIYANI
N
i Ketut Sukerti and two colleagues spent hours showing a number of excited attendees of an event last week how to create beautiful drinking glasses from used wine bottles. Sukerti, Juminten and Juli patiently showed participants how to choose bottles and to mark each one with a line for the height of the drinking glass. Using a simple tool, they carefully cut a circle around the bottle. To make a clean break, the line on the bottle was heated slowly over a candle flame for an hour. The bottle was then placed into a bucket filled with cold water, where it broke in two along the line. Juminten and Juli rubbed the rough edge of the glass with sandpaper to get a smooth edge, a process that could take between 10 minutes and one hour. Once finished, the glasses were washed and ready to use. The three women, who work as scavengers, belong to Denpasar-based Bali Life, a nonprofit organization that helps empower child street beggars and their parents through education and work opportunities. Its programs include Bali Life Street Kids Informal School and Bali Life Women’s Workshops for mothers and other women in poor neighborhoods. Sukerti, a mother of six, has enjoyed the benefits of Bali Life. “We have learned so many
Sustainable solutions:
FROM THE GROUND UP things to produce goods from waste and used items. We can sell them and earn money to feed our children,” she said. What the three women were demonstrating at the event was just one solution to recycle waste to create an economic value, while at the same time reducing pollution and the carbon footprint. The event, entitled Sustainable Solutions: From the Ground Up, was jointly hosted by Bali’s Green School and the United Nations Office for REDD+ Coordination in Indonesia (UNORCID) last weekend. More than 500 participants of all ages, including school students, passionately engaged in various eye-opening and creative programs and hands-on workshops. Participating organizations across Bali gathered to showcase their innovative solutions and initiatives to reduce the island’s carbon footprint. Participants included Big Tree Farms, Bottle for Botol, Reef Check Indonesia, Lengis Hijau, Cash for Trash and Bee Education Projects. Their projects showcased environmentally responsible products, initiatives, alternative services and projects to the community. Satya Tripati, director and executive head of UNORCID, said: “Our generation has the responsibility of doing what we can to steer humanity in the right direction and to provide young people with the tools they need to
accelerate along this pathway. “Connecting various sustainability initiatives through events like Sustainable Solutions is a powerful way to open up opportunities in inspiring the young generation to be part of solution,” he added.
Musicians and environmentalists Gede Robi of Navicula and Rizal wrapped up the day-long event with acoustic performances. Their music spreads powerful messages on social and environmental issues to create a better and more sustainable future.
June 4, 2015
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The view from down here
Wayan Jejel WORDS AND PHOTOS RIO HELMI
I
f you mention Bali in a conversation overseas, it’s a good bet that 75 percent of the people within earshot are going to start visualizing lush, green rice field terraces disappearing off into infinity. It’s true, that this kind of scenery is still around in Ubud. Every time I post an image like that on the Ubud Now and Then Facebook page we’ll get comments from people either pining for Ubud or telling us with fervor they’ll be here “in a few weeks” and are counting down the days. And then there’s all those smiling people working in the fields. But if you look a little closer, sometimes you can see that the smile is just a little wry. One morning, I was up around the back of Buahan at around 700 meters above sea level, looking for that beautiful, crisp, Bali dawn light you get in the mountains. As I scanned the scene where I had shot a brilliant dawn some weeks earlier, I spotted a farmer squatting on the pematang walkways between rice fields, cutting grass for fodder for his cows. We started chatting; one of the simple, genuine pleasures such encounters in Bali can offer. “What type of rice are you planting here?” I asked. “Are you using the Legowo system?” The Legowo system is a progressive way of planting rice with more space between rows and fewer seedlings in a clump. As a result, the plants need less water and get more sunlight; doing so is somewhat counterintuitive for the average Balinese farmer, but, for several years, a select few farming communities have had convincing results with their yields. Wayan Jejel stood up, small but burly for his size, cigarette in hand. “No. There’s a couple of guys down the way that are doing it. I’ll wait and see how they go. I’ll stick with this for the time being.” His face was somewhat surly, and clearly making small talk wasn’t his strong point. Squatting down again, sickle in hand, he cut the grass in short wrenching movements. He
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volunteered, “The grass isn’t just for fodder, it is important to keep the pematang neat and trim […] because it’s also where rats hang out. Nowadays, it’s always the seasons for rats.” “Ah yes, nowadays there are rats everywhere,” I suggested. “Yes,” he answered drily, “Twolegged ones too. And basically whatever kind of rat, it’s their nature to gnaw away at the hard-earned results of others.” He flashed a grin that transformed his face. Wayan then turned the conversation to the surveys that had been done on farmers in his area. “We’ve had various government bodies come and do surveys. Nothing much seems to come of it though.” Wayan inherited his rice fields from his father and forefathers, and he has a bit of dry field land as well. “I have to try and plant other crops, like bananas, to cover the shortfall. Of course, a lot of people are tempted to alih fungsi [change the function] of their land at
least, if not to sell it outright. I’m not for it, but it is hard to make a living as a farmer. Sometimes we’re lucky just to get back what we put into it. But it’s true that if you sell your land, you have a pile of money — but then you spend it all and you’re stone poor again.” “Yes,” I ventured, “but then again everyone seems to have a motorcycle.” He gave me a slightly dismissive look: “Of course. Everyone nowadays, no matter how poor, has to have a bike. In one compound there are at least three or four, even if they are all jury-rigged wrecks. You can’t survive without them. They are the replacement for our feet. Work, school, how are you going to manage that without one?” Clearly I was the idiot here. It turned out that Wayan also works as a part-time laborer and raises pigs on the tiny plot of land he has bought near his ancestral family compound. When I visited him there a couple of weeks later, I saw a neat, little two-room cement house. For a man of his means, that house surely came from a lot of hard, daily toil. He was surprised to see me there. “How did you find me?” he asked in a not necessarily welcoming tone, cradling his morning coffee glass in one hand, cigarette in the other, polo shirt rolled up above his stomach. The pig sty he leaned against was almost bigger than the bright new house set in a messy chaotic excuse for a garden, while pop music blared out into the cool morning sunlight from a flashy ghetto blaster. No humble, orderly rural charm here. He was in no rush to offer me a seat, much less a coffee. I got the impression he was someone who might not have a lot of refinement — but plenty of ambition. I also began to see he was a mixture not only of earthy practicality; there was a touch of casual brutality born of tough struggle. At one point, as we squatted in his yard chatting, I suddenly felt something cool and
smooth drop on to my wrist, almost encircling it like a bracelet. It was a thin, maybe 50 centimeter, oriental rat snake (lelipi jali). In surprise, I instinctively flicked it off into the weeds. Wayan and I stopped to discuss what kind of snake it was, then went back to our earlier conversation. He stood up casually and picked up a palm frond spine. Fossicking briefly through the weeds, he found the snake and lifted it up. I thought he was just going to chuck it out the back as it was relatively harmless, but without warning he dropped it and in one fluid, lighting-fast motion, whirled the stick over his head and whacked the snake on its head. I was totally taken aback and felt really remiss for not being fast enough to stop him. “Is it dead?” I asked lamely. “Not yet, but he won’t make it, I hit him on the head.”“But it wasn’t poisonous […]” He countered: “All snakes are poisonous, it’s just a matter of degree.” With the snake dying, it seemed pointless to argue further. The whole episode rattled me. We moved over to the house, a much simplified, miniature facsimile of the classic dream town house in Bali. Several fighting cock cages were lined up against the weeds in front of the verandah: cement, white tile, faux wooden doors with cast molding patterns. “So what have you found in your survey of Bali?” he asked. Not quite sure where he got the idea I was doing a survey, nor liking the idea, I ventured that it seemed the rich were getting richer and the poor poorer. He spat out: “Bah — that’s not just Bali, that’s all of Indonesia.” As I wheeled my bike around to leave, he said with a touch of churlishness mixed with a gambler’s hopefulness, “Do you want to buy land up in the next village? It’s pretty much all owned by foreigners now […]” Gone was his attitude of disapproval from a couple of weeks earlier toward people selling their land. Today it was Wayan Jejel, farmer and hustler.
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SERVICES Accountant, tax consultant, QuickBooks expert. Call 0878 600 22239 anggra1@yahoo.com Aqua Fitness Courses and Aqua Bike Courses, Seminyak. Call: 0818 054 19300 Baby sitter services. Contact me 0852 3810 0025 Blue Med Bioresonance theraphy in front of Pecatu Graha. Please contact 087860133047 for more information. British photographer services available. Specialist in product & culinary photography. Fully equipped modern studio facilities. Call 08123 883532 CV Yazna Villa Management. Professional service for all needs. Located at Jl. Majapahit No.76 Kuta. Office 0361 767 108. Mobile 0812 382 3731 Do you need a consultant for your F&B outlet? Contact Fokus Hospitality for one-stop solution. 0361 274 0619 Driver, speaks English, freelance, honest. Good price. Contact: 081 797 81005 English private tutor offers English/Math tuition for children 5-12yrs. 7 years experience as a classroom teacher in UK & Australia. Call 0817 470 3070 Freelance driver, speaks English, is honest and reliable. Contact: 0819 9996 1750 Freelance pool cleaner and garden services. Please call 0878 6017 0659 Funding available for real estate projects or business expansion. Non-recourse, no pre sales, low interest rate 4%-7%. www.ajoyacapital.com
Get your website on Google’s first page for more customers. Call/SMS 0811 380 151 Grand Master, Babaji Maharaj, offers yoga, meditation, shakti healing through the chakras. Experience of a lifetime! Offering private lessons. Ubud area. Email info@omatrixcenter.com Here is VETERINARY 24/7 SERVICE. VETERINARIAN. Highly experienced and friendly, on call, 24/7 services. Call: 082144509796 Home made jewelry. Silver and gold. Good price with high quality product. Call 081 7477 9129 Indonesian freelance cook. Text Elok 0813 902 36628 Indonesian lessons for foreigners provided at your home / office, native teacher. Sms/call: Ms. Asima 0821 468 50175 / email gemilangcourse@gmail.co, www.balipages.biz.learn.speak.indonesian. Indonesian lessons, free trial class. Contact: 0878 616 37555, nika.wirawan@gmail.com Jonsen Pet House. Dog boarding and playground. 0361 2727 645 / 0812 6304 5125. jonsenpethouse.com
Private Indonesian language classes for foreigners. Call Dwi 0813 3870 5158
Saxophone or guitar lessons at any level. SMS 0813 398 07682 Doug.
Made to order: bags, wallets, jackets, leather. Pls call 0819 3621 9030
Private piano lessons for kids. Contact Steven, 0813 393 21615 / 089 651 434612
Soap-making class, 4 hours, Rp 1 mill. Call 0813 287 16169, kesambibali@gmail.com
Need a building contractor? Call 0881 460 2907 / 0812 360 9639
Private yoga lessons: in a studio, in a villa or in the comfort of your home. British teacher. All levels catered for. 0817 470 3070
Painting courses, professional artist. Call 0361 837 2501
Relaxing Thai massage for women. Contact: 0822 3760 3026
Private courses in the Chinese language. Simple system. Call: 0818 055 60595 / 0813 382 17788
Relaxing yoga, private classes. For more info, please call 0822 3760 302
Swimming, private courses. For more information please call 0818 054 19300 Web design, SEO, and video editing service. Portfolio : www.creativewebdesign.com Contact : 0819 9938 5206 Wood & composite decking specialist & carpenter. Email : woodworking.bali@yahoo.co.id 081999857305 www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.
ISLAND BUZZ Bali & Beyond Travel Fair 2015 The upcoming Bali & Beyond Travel Fair (BBTF) 2015, Indonesia’s own travel and tourism fair, is to showcase Indonesia by bringing together sellers and buyers in a single forum from June 10-14. “Each year we typically go abroad to promote our destinations, however, it’s an entirely different experience when you can actually get the buyers to come and see the destination with their own eyes,” said Ketut Ardana, chairman of BBTF 2015. “We aim to bring together members of the tourism sector and facilitate networking between Indonesian enterprises and international wholesalers.” BBTF will present business sessions and direct promotion of best practices in MICE and leisure management, pre-scheduled appointments and business sessions for buyers and sellers to negotiate long-term leisure and corporate travel needs. Corporations, travel agents, hotel and resort chains, cruise operators, convention planners, venue operators and travel buyers will be able to leverage the opportunity to enhance their brands in the Indonesian and Asia Pacific markets. Bali was chosen as the venue as it is the gateway to Indonesia for global travellers and the island contributes up to 40 percent of all visitors to the nation each year. For more information or to register for the event, please visit bbtf.or.id or email info@bbtf.or.id.
InterContinental Bali Resort best wedding resort again InterContinental Bali Resort has, for the second consecutive year, received the International Hotel Network (IHN) Award in the category Best Wedding Resort 2015. IHN is a digital marketing network that works with some renowned names in the business and hospitality industry to provide the finest hotels from around the world. Nominees for the IHN Awards were assessed by an international panel of industry experts, who considered every aspect of the business from customer relations to creativity, quality of service, standards, guest satisfaction, product innovation and business acumen. Michel Chertouh, general manager of InterContinental Resort Bali, said, “To have received this [award] two years in a row is testament to the hard work, commitment and success of our dedicated wedding team.” The resort offers an array of exclusive and breathtaking, indoor and outdoor wedding venues within the gardens and the beautiful Jimbaran Beach area, as well a professional team of wedding planners who deliver impeccable service to every bridal couple, their friends and family. Weddings are uniquely custom-made to reflect personal tastes, ranging from an intimate sunset ceremony on the beach, the rich pageantry of a traditional Balinese wedding to a modern white wedding, with several hundred guests.
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Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com
Food & Drinks CANGGU Ole Ole Ollie Cake heaven! Jl. Batu Mejan, Canggu : (0361) 8710068
DENPASAR
DENPASAR Black Canyon Amaris Jl. Teuku Umar No. 139, Denpasar : (0361) 9378042 / 9378043 Kopi Bali A tiny, old school coffee shop selling Bali’s original Butterfly Globe coffee, founded in 1935. Jl. Gajah Mada No. 80, Denpasar
KEROBOKAN From 4 - 10 p.m.
Woobar at W Retreat Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106
Events BBQ and Beats Every Friday and Saturday From 4 – 7 p.m. Cocoon Beach Club Jl. Pantai Double Six, Kuta
Bumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee. Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan
KUTA
SANUR
Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every Thursday From 8 - 11 a.m. Come and join the fun of sharing farm duties, workshops, etc. Kul Kul Farm Bali Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, Badung E-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297 Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality. Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888 Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604
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Blooming Village Beautiful rice field views, great place to relax and have a drink! Jl. Umalas No. 7, Kerobokan
Black Canyon Discovery Shopping Mall Jl. Kartika Plaza : (0361) 3700379
Calendar of Events
June 4, 2015
ART & CULTURE CORNER R
Warung Mak Beng Traditional Balinese fish dishes. Jl. Hang Tuah No. 45, Sanur
SEMINYAK Fayola A tiny café in Seminyak serving great healthy food. Don’t forget their desserts! Jl. Raya Seminyak Gg. 14, Seminyak (in front of Ryoshi)
TUBAN
Meraba Angin Until June 20 A group art exhibition by local and international artists. Shankara Art Space Jl. Danau Toba No. 7, Sanur Barong & Keris Dance Everyday Starts 9 a.m. Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 224596
JIMBARAN
MUSEUMS S Antonio Blanco’s Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. : (0361) 975 502 Bali Museum Jl. Letkol Wisnu, Denpasar Open daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. except Mondays. Museum Le Mayeur Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur Open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. except Fridays.
Kecak & Fire Dance Everyday Starts 6 p.m. Uluwatu Temple Jimbaran, Badung : (0361) 9041163
KUTA
Traditional & Modern Performances Every day (Except Wednesday) Starts 8 p.m. Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta : (0361) 762750
UBUD
Legong Dance Every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m. Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera) Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud : (0361) 972124 or 970503 Topeng Jimat Every Wednesday Starts 7 p.m. ARMA Museum & Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan
Artshow: Tatana Scali Until June 22 Opening June 5 at 8 p.m. Bali Bohemia Jl. Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud : (0361) 978631
Black Canyon Ngurah Rai International Airport : (0361) 8491805
UBUD Kagemusha Light and simple Japanese food reminds you of real Japanese home cooking. Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud : (0361) 973134
Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com
Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan, Phone (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu, Phone (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 4729081
Tour & Travel Agen nt
Activities Courses Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220
Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia. Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience. Head Office Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 www.peramatour.com
Bintang Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud
Shoppingg
Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919
Papaya Fresh Gallery Jl. Mertanadi, Kuta
Where TO GO
Tjakra 7 Spa
U Paasha 2nd Anniversary Promo
Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian : (0361) 762500 pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com
Until May 31 Book your stay now! U Paasha Seminyak Jl. Laksmana No. 77, Seminyak : (0361) 8465977 E-mail: reserve@upaashaseminyak.com
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Mya Bar & Restaurant Soft Opening June 26 Dash Hotel Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan : (0361) 3004666
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Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA
Pulaki Gilimanuk
Mt. Sangiang
Mt. Batur Mt. Musi si si
West Bali National Parkk
Besakih Mt. Agung
NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi
AMLAPURA
Ubud
BANGLI
Sangeh
KLUNGKUNG
TABANAN
GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan
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DENPASAR
Canggu 2 Seminyak Legian 1 Kuta Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport
Jimbaran
Sanur
Benoa Nusa Dua
Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Pura Batu Madan
Penida Island
5 Puspadi Bali Fund Raising Classical Concert
MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali
French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment. Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com www.metisbali.com
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June 6 Contact cherrellinbali@gmail.com for more information and tickets. Annika Linden Centre Jl. Bakung No. 19, Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 7444620
June 4, 2015
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Savor
“A BUSTLING EATERY SERVES STYLISH, RUSTIC ITALIAN FOOD” WORDS AMANDA O’CONNOR PHOTOS COURTESY OF JAMIE’S ITALIAN
T
he first Jamie’s Italian in Indonesia opened its doors in Kuta on Monday. This casual eatery, inspired by renowned British chef Jamie Oliver’s visits to Italy, is home to a wide range of authentic Italian food with that unique twist expected of a Jamie Oliver dish. Located street-side, overlooking Jl. Pantai Kuta, in Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jamie’s Italian has a quirky feel with trattoria-style seating, wooden ceiling fans outside and stunning one-of-a-kind copper lights upstairs created by a small family-run company that has been making kitchen utensils for three generations. Wooden floors, open kitchens, a busy Ferrari-red pasta-making machine in the front window and Oliver’s cook books on the shelves create a welcoming ambience. The bar serves a wide selection of refreshing classic cocktails, Italian wines, spirits and digestif. Favorites include the Bottega Limoncino, Jamie’s Italian Mojito (with a splash of Prosecco) and an excellent home-made lemonade. Oliver’s penchant for local sourcing and supporting small businesses also shows in the coffee, which is locally grown and specially blended by Kopi Bali for the restaurant. The long wait for this international, family friendly restaurant to open in Bali was due to Oliver’s exacting requirements for produce to be sustainably farmed, locally procured wherever possible and from “happy” farm animals. Head chef Alex Barman expressed his delight at the quality of local ingredients and loved being able to personally visit farms to find those that could pass the rigorous checklist to supply the restaurant. The menu, created by Oliver and his Italian mentor Gennaro Contaldo, provides for all
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June 4, 2015
JAMIE’S ITALIAN
KUTA BEACH OPENS situations and appetites, whether you fancy a cold beer and a plate of antipasti, pizzas to share among friends, or a hearty, 30-day aged steak or Lamb Chop Lollipops followed by one of the large, delicious desserts. Kids also have their own tempting menu, presented with crayons, stickers and a badge, which they can color in. While deciding what to eat, diners may have the chance to watch the pasta being made. According to Barman, these specific machines are found in every Jamie’s Italian and are a key tool. From the menu, the impressive meat plank is great for sharing and has piles of Italian cold meats, scattered with olives and pickled chili, freshly made mozzarella cheese from Bali, a root vegetable salad and swirls of chili jam on cheese with thin, crisp bread served on a wooden board. Desserts show an Italian influence in the wobbly panna cotta and Contaldo’s tiramisu, while Oliver’s English background shows in the delicious lemon meringue cheesecake. Jamie’s Italian Kuta Beach is open daily from 12 noon to 11 p.m. Although a walk-in restaurant, reservations can be made on the website jamiesitalian.co.id or by phoning (0361) 762118.