Vol. 1/May 7-May 13, 2015
On
Life in prison
road
Run Till You Drop!
The magical Garuda
from THE editor
The less-beaten track Cover Photo: Anggara Mahendra
The resort island has a lot to offer to visiting guests. It has the amenities “common” to a top destination, from the “common” luxurious hotels, posh restaurants and manicured golf courses, to stretches of hypnotizing beaches, all sufficient to keep visitors who treat vacation as leisure-and-nothing-else time in bliss. For the jaded or repeat customers, Bali in recent years has built new attractions, as well as revamped classic ones. The charm of the island’s Hindu teachings and rituals are blended with the thrill of modern yoga and New Age elements to create an ongoing trend that lures not only tourists and expatriates but also wealthy locals to healing centers and yoga studios across the island. Meanwhile, adventure tourism operators devise new challenges and construct new facilities to attract the younger demographic. The availability of this wide variety of attractions does not, however, detract some visitors from their quest to find the “real” Bali, which usually means parts of the island still relatively untouched by tourism development, and to seek encounters with “real” Balinese. In this age of pervasive technology, when even a shallot grower in a remote village in Kintamani has access to a cellular phone, such an endeavor could be seen as futile. But one can always try! This edition’s cover story narrates the solo 2,600-kilometer Denpasar-Jakarta-Denpasar motorbike trip taken by Bali Buzz’s photographer Anggara Mahendra and the revealing encounters he experienced throughout the journey. It could serve as inspiration for those wanting to experience another side of the island. “Real” Bali and “real” Balinese might be elusive, but “different” Bali and “different” Balinese do still exist.
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Balian Beach
— The Editor
Contents
04
05
Europe on screen
‘Bunut bolong’
07 ‘Viva Fair Trade!’ 08 On the road 10 Life in prison 11 ‘Lawar getih and nyuhnyuh’ 12 Run Till You Drop! 16 The magical Garuda
PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA i Editorial and General Department Jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 Renon Denpasar Bali
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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi
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May 7, 2015
Images
‘Banyu Pinaruh’
“Purification of body and soul” Words and photos Agung Parameswara
L
ast Sunday, thousands of Balinese Hindus performed the purification ritual Banyu Pinaruh, which takes place one day after Saraswati Day, when Balinese Hindus pay homage to Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge, arts and science. Banyu means water in the Balinese language, while pinaruh, or pengeruwuh, means knowledge and wisdom. The Banyu Pinaruh ritual serves to physically and spiritually purify the body and soul. The process started before dawn, with devotees heading to natural water sources such as rivers, lakes, the sea and springs. One destination for this purification ritual is Tirta Empul temple in Manukaya, Tampaksiring, where there are three natural spring pools with 26 waterspouts, which are believed to have existed since 962.
Always a popular site for these rituals, thousands of people from across Bali descended on Tirta Empul from early morning. The ritual bathing process is seen as an important way to eliminate bad influences and negative forces and the frigid water from this holy spring is believed to be especially powerful in warding off evil. The Banyu Pinaruh ritual is a way of expressing gratitude and asking to be granted wisdom, knowledge and light to lead a happy and content life. As such, after bathing, devotees present their best offerings, such as nasi pradnya (steamed yellow rice with grated coconut, fried egg and fish) and loloh sad rasa (a mixture of rice flour, flowers, salt and sandalwood) all of which symbolize wisdom, knowledge, safety and prosperity.
May 7, 2015
3
Charity
“Enjoying European movies while helping the disadvantaged in Bali”
Europe on screen WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF SOLEMEN INDONESIA
I
n a spectacular amphitheater overlooking the ocean at Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort, movie lovers enjoyed Daylight, a Dutch psychological thriller, on a large outdoor screen while soaking up the relaxed atmosphere of a Sunday afternoon. Unlike the rainy first day of screening on Saturday, which forced the organizers to move the event into the resort’s ballroom, the Sunday viewing was greeted with enthusiasm in the open air. The audience became immersed in this suspenseful, action movie about Iris Boelens, a lawyer who finds out that she has a half brother, Ray, who is imprisoned in a secure hospital having brutally murdered his neighbor and their baby. Diagnosed with autism, Ray reminds Boelens of her son, who is also autistic. She digs into Ray’s files to unravel the truth behind his case. The open-air screening was made even more special due to the presence of creative producer Judith Hees in the audience. European filmmakers, according to Hees, now had more reason to promote their movies in Indonesia due to growing audience appreciation for European movies. “People have been used to watching American movies, but now interest is growing
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among Indonesian audiences for high quality, interesting European films with an artistic touch. It is time to develop the taste of the Indonesian audiences. European movies have increasingly been well received.” While waiting for the screening to start, the audience was awed by the performance of Ceremco, an international magician, who personalizes his magic to suit different clients and definitely livened up the ambience. They also savored a tasty buffet and drinks, as well as bought merchandise — the proceeds from which will be used to help disadvantaged people in Bali through Yayasan Solemen Indonesia projects. This is the second year that Solemen and Pan Pacific have collaborated to host this event, which is part of Europe on Screen 2015, a European film festival held from May 1 to
10 in six cities nationwide: Jakarta, Bandung, Denpasar, Medan, Surabaya and Yogyakarta. “We feel the combination of both Europe on Screen and Solemen’s charity makes it a positive event. People were approachable and open to learning about Solemen, as well as to contributing,” said Solemen’s Alison Gray. During the event, Solemen also introduced a beverage called Bootstrap Cold Brew Coffee, made from organic Kintamani coffee beans. A portion of revenue from the coffee sales will be donated to Solemen’s work. “We currently have so many projects on the go. Ideally, the proceeds will go towards our ‘Free Caged Made’ appeal, to build a sustainable home for him and family to live in,” Gray said. The 43-year-old Made suffers from schizophrenia and his erratic and aggressive
behavior, resulting from his untreated mental health issues, scared his neighbors. As no one knew what to do with him, he was isolated in a custom-built, barren cage built by the banjar (customary hamlet). Currently, he remains incarcerated behind padlocked iron bars. Solemen first met him last year and has made his life a little more bearable with a bed, clothes, toilet facilities and running water, visiting him regularly to take him out for meals and trips to the beach, as well as helping him resume his hobbies, such as playing the guitar and singing. The European movies, in addition to being screened at Pan Pacific’s amphitheatre, have also been shown at Denpasar’s Indonesian Arts Institute (ISI Denpasar) on May 4 and 5 and will be at Bentara Budaya Bali in Ketewel on May 7 and 8.
Sight
‘Bunut bolong’ “A mystical fig tree turns into a famed site” WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA
I
n Jembrana, the island’s westernmost regency, stands a giant fig tree with a unique characteristic. Locals refer to it as bunut bolong. This sacred tree straddles the road, with its trunk leaving a large enough gap to form a tunnel big enough for two cars to go through, sideby-side, at the same time. The word bunut is Balinese for a species of the fig tree, while the word bolong means hole. Located in Manggisari village in Pekutatan district, this tree has become a point of interest for tourists using the road connecting Jembrana and the northern regency of Buleleng. It takes around two-and-a-half hours to reach it from the capital city, Denpasar, which is about 86 kilometers away.
The sacred tree is situated on the ridge of a hill, flanked on the east by a clove plantation and on the west by a gorge with a dense, lush green tropical forest. As you drive up through the hills toward the tree, the air gets cooler and occasionally thick fog blankets the area. Bunut bolong has a strong magical aura and the people living in the area believe several myths about it. One belief is that brides and grooms should not pass under the tree or their marriage will fail, while another claims that hearses cannot pass under it. Whatever you believe, an alternative road has been constructed adjacent to the tree for those who believe the stories and want to avoid any possible bad luck.
May 7, 2015
5
Sight
Balian Beach “A hidden surf treasure in Tabanan�
B
ali is a haven for beach and surf lovers with its many beaches with breathtaking views and surf-worthy waves. While most visitors are familiar with the well-known beaches in Kuta, Sanur, Nusa Dua, Jimbaran and Canggu, there are some relatively unknown sites located between Denpasar and Tabanan regency, on the way to Gilimanuk, some 65 kilometers from Denpasar. One of these is a beach known by the local people as Balian, in Lalanglinggah village in West Selemandeg. For local and international amateur and professional surfers, Balian Beach is a new surf haven. Surrounded by coconut trees and other
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May 7, 2015
Words and photos Bram Setiawan
greenery, the beach is a great place to enjoy and relax on its black sands. Its huge waves and strong winds have started to attract surfers, with the best time to surf being between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., according to a professional surfer. Several food stalls offer a large variety of seafood, while a number of modest accommodations cater to visitors who want to spend a few days at this underexplored beach. Far from the crowds and noise in Kuta and the south, Balian Beach has a serene atmosphere, apart from the excitement of watching the courageous surfers brave the huge waves.
Sound
‘Viva Fair Trade!’ “A powerful grassroots movement campaigning through song” WORDS AND PHOTOS LUH DE SURIYANI
“S
ay no to child labor/that’s what people say/brothers and sisters, look around you/giant corporations act as people/occupy the world, they’re so smooth/amuse your brains and your hearts/ drowning in the ocean of ignorance/losing power to see reality/child labor/born from injustice/child labor/killing our future/let’s stand up, regardless of who you are/act together/liberate our children/ for freedom, justice and posterity.” Those are the lyrics of “Child Labor”, one of the songs on the album titled Viva Fair Trade produced by Mitra Bali Fair Trade and local band Nosstress. Released on World Fair Trade Day 2015 in Bali, this mini album features five songs, including “Social Solidarity”, “Reformation” and “Viva Fair Trade”. Although it bears the Fair Trade theme, these songs actually narrate the social and economic conditions experienced by local people in Bali. “Social solidarity in Bali is diminishing. Everybody is so busy taking care of rituals and ceremonies, that they don’t care about what is happening around them,” Ketut Agung Alit, the songwriter and founder of Mitra Bali, said about the inspiration behind the song “Social Solidarity”. Meanwhile, the song “Reformation” is about gender equality, one of the 10 principles of Fair Trade: Commitment to Non-Discrimination,
Gender Equity and Women’s Economic Empowerment and Freedom of Association. Fair Trade’s focus on ensuring women’s rights is also expressed in a documentary video about Balinese artisans created by Mitra Bali. One of the women featured in the video is Sugiani, a silver artisan. Implementing fair trade principles in her business obliges her to understand the financial aspects and how transactions are conducted under a fair scheme. Since Fair Trade also upholds the principle of creating good working conditions, she also learns how to ensure a safe and healthy working environment. “Under the Fair Trade program, we receive various facilities, and we’re required to continue enhancing our capabilities,” said Sugiani, who works with her husband, Slamet. Slamet, who was a woodcrafter, is now focusing on producing silver crafts with his wife. Doing business under the Fair Trade program has improved his condition, transforming him from a small entrepreneur with disorderly accounting and a lot of unpaid debts into a professional entrepreneur. The songs on the album were arranged by Nosstress. This acoustic band from Bali is aiming to bring attention to fair trade issues through easy listening songs that ensure they get the message spread.
Nyoman Angga, the guitarist and vocalist, said the band was proud to be involved in the process and that he had also learned that fair trade was applicable in the music industry. According to the Indonesian Fair Trade Federation, there are only seven organizations in Indonesia that have been registered and secured global certification under the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO). In Bali, there
are only two, Mitra Bali and Arumdalu Mekar, both focusing on handicraft businesses. The fair trade program also ensures that raw materials are taken responsibly from nature, using a legal and environmentally friendly process, as well as ensuring prosperity for workers, gender equality and prohibiting child labor.
May 7, 2015
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Cover Story
I
t wasn’t a plan well-received by his friends and colleagues. A softspoken man with a gentle demeanor, Anggara Mahendra, however, has the conviction of a martyr. When he tabled his plan to take Si Kemot, his vintage 1975 Honda Super Cub, on a solo road trip from Denpasar to Jakarta and back, most of his friends raised their eyebrows.
On the road “A young photographer follows his dream of taking his vintage motorbike on a 2,600 kilometer trip through Bali and Java” Words I Wayan Juniarta Photos Anggara Mahendra
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May 7, 2015
They saw several holes in the plan, which they gladly pointed out. The Super Cub is the bestselling vehicle in the history of Honda. The company built and sold more than 60 million worldwide. Yet, 70 cc Si Kemot had passed its golden years and was clearly underpowered for a trip that would add a total of more than 2,600 kilometers to its odometer. The main artery roads connecting Denpasar and Jakarta have a bad reputation for being “speedways” for reckless bus drivers and overloaded trucks. Having an engine breakdown or, God forbid, being mauled by an out-of-control truck were real possibilities. Moreover, the planned route would take him along several stretches of road with high crime rates. Yes, most of them involved bajing loncat (squirrels), the popular pseudonym for street criminals who board cargo trucks and help themselves to the goods. But with the increasing media exposure on begal, street criminals specializing in hijacking motorbikes and often injuring their victims, the bajing loncat might get the idea and up their game. There was also a problem with his target of doing 400 kilometers per day, a very tall order for an old four-stroke engine manufactured four decades ago. It would also surely inflict a heavy toll on Anggara’s physical health. He is not into sport and carrying a camera bag all day long is enough to give him a strained neck. He respected his friends but he had to do the trip. He had dreamed about it for years. When he was announced as one of 10 recipients of the 2014 Permata Photojournalist Grant, he knew that finally he had a good excuse to realize his dream. On Nov. 21, 2014, he bade his friends goodbye and started a journey that would see him and Si Kemot navigating Bali’s infamous “Skull Highway”, the long stretch of road connecting Denpasar and Gilimanuk ferry harbor, known for its high number of fatal traffic accidents, and Java’s crowded northern coastal Pantura highway. He made overnight stops in Surabaya, Semarang and Kaliwungu in Kendal, where his mother’s family resides. On Nov. 24, he finally breathed in the heavily polluted air of Jakarta and navigated through its chaotic traffic. He had survived the
1,300-kilometer ride in good health, managing to traverse an average of 350 kilometers per day, and thankfully none of his friends’ fears had materialized. Si Kemot only had one minor hiccup, rainwater infiltrated its carburetor, requiring a quick clean in a roadside garage owned by a friendly mechanic. Anggara did, in fact, experience an encounter with a bajing loncat in East Java. Yet, instead of finding himself being robbed, Anggara had an educational conversation, during which the bajing loncat imparted upon him several valuable tips and tricks to stay safe on the road, over cups of warm coffee. Anggara regularly uploaded the pictures he had taken throughout the trip to his Instagram account. Each photo being accompanied by an engaging narrative about what he felt and at which point of the journey he was when the image was captured. The series attracted a large following of well-wishers, who were either amazed or perplexed by his decision to make the journey. A sense of boredom was the worst enemy that he had to conquer during the ride. He devised a cunning strategy to keep the boredom at bay: listening to music for a specific duration of time. “I’ll listen to music on
my cell phone for 30 minutes, then turn off the music player for 30 minutes and keep repeating the process,” he said. When that didn’t work, he would summon an imaginary friend and chat with him. The monsoon rain masked the heated debates and the screaming contests he had with this friend. “It was a smooth journey, even smoother than I expected. It seemed that every time I ran into trouble, help and a solution were available a few meters ahead. It somehow convinced me that there is an unseen connection that binds us with other people, good individuals who are always ready to assist us,” he said. The return trip five months later was even more colorful. He was more patient, more curious and made more stops. The trip eventually took 13 days to complete. His patience paid off and the ride enriched his mind. In Cirebon he found himself late at night in front of a Hindu temple. He needed a place to spend the night and the temple priest, Jro Mangku Komang, offered to let Anggara stay at his house next to the temple. They prayed together and spent most of the night conversing on philosophical ideas, including religious conversion, a sensitive topic here in Indonesia. He learned a lot from the priest, who is also a traffic police officer. Later on, he found his way
to Trowulan, East Java. Centuries ago, the town was the capital of Majapahit, the mighty Hindu empire that ruled over most of presentday Indonesia. Balinese Hindus look upon Majapahit as the pinnacle of Hindu glory and some long for its revival. Anggara’s family can trace its lineage back to Arya Kenceng, one of the Majapahit warlords who accompanied prime minister Gajah Mada on the decisive military invasion that subjugated Bali in the 14th century. He felt that longing when he visited the Majapahit temple and spent the night there in an open hall flanked by shrines to goddesses Sri and Parwati. A thick screen of mist descended on the area as he conversed with the temple custodian, who narrated the difficulties the Hindu community had experienced in constructing the temple. In April 25, Anggara and Si Kemot finally entered Denpasar. He was exhausted physically but definitely enriched mentally by the trip. His friends congratulated him on Instagram and in person. There was a lot of catching up to do and Si Kemot needed special attention in a well-stocked garage. But he knew that he had achieved his dream. “It is not about the destination. It never was about arriving in Jakarta, Surabaya or any other place, for that matter. It is always about embracing the journey and meeting new people. It is always about warm conversation, learning new things and seeing things from a new perspective.”
May 7, 2015
9
Soul
Life in prison “Music and writing brighten young, troubled souls” Words and photos Luh De Suriyani
L
ast Friday, members of the Sloka Institute visited a juvenile correctional institution in Karangasem, eastern Bali, to meet with the children and teenagers living behind bars. The children had been promised the opportunity to view several documentaries of a book launch of their literary works that had been held during the Bali Emerging Writers’ Festival on April 24. The children, of course, had not been able to attend the launch as they were in prison. As the screening started, the children suddenly turned silent and the atmosphere in the room became deeply sorrowful. In the film, a boy named Dms read out his poem entitled “Bingung” (Confused), written during a literary workshop on Feb. 10. “I am losing hope/my breath and steps
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May 7, 2015
are so heavy/even time is no longer a friend/I don’t know why…/I can’t hear any noise/my heart seemingly doesn’t want to stop beating/ freshness is fading/I don’t know why… Stop talking/it is all over now/my time has yet to begin.” “My name is Dms,” he said in his introduction. “I am from Denpasar, but I’m confused about my origin. My father is from Sulawesi, while my mother comes from Banyuwangi in East Java.” “When people ask me again, I tell them I popped up from a hard stone like my hero — Kera Sakti — the Mighty Monkey,” said Dms. Dms is one of dozens of juvenile inmates who had participated in a literary and musical workshop organized by non-profit organization Sloka Institute. Initially, Dms and his fellow inmates had been reluctant to take part, saying they had never had the chance to write anything in
their lives. However, after four weeks, the youngsters started to love their new hobbies of writing and playing music. The resulting literary works of 20 young inmates were published in a book supported by the organizer of the Bali Emerging Writers’ Festival and HIVOS, a Dutch humanitarian and development organization. One of the poems, entitled “Perjalanan” (Journey), was written by Dansap (not his real name). “Life is a journey/sometimes it makes me confused/the road I take/fear emerges/we live just once, but I am frightened hundreds of times…” Carli, another boy, wrote: “We lost our freedom and have to stay in prison. You are all lucky living with your parents. Make the most of your lives.” After the screening, the children were free to play music and sing, eventually sitting with
members of the Sloka Institute. The institute officials told the children the book publication and literary appreciation forum had raised some funds. “We will likely raise around Rp 2.3 million [US$176]. Do you have any idea how we could use the money,” asked one official. One of the children came up with a brilliant idea. “The majority of children and youths here come from poor families. When they are freed, they don’t have the money to return home and nobody will pick them up. It would be better if the money was used to help these children.” The money will, however, certainly be used as initial capital to hold a series of creative and engaging programs to help these unfortunate youths explore their untapped potential to create a brighter future.
Savor
‘Lawar getih’ and ‘nyuhnyuh’ Iconic Tenganan food
Words and photos Bram Setiawan
I
f you have a taste for authentic Balinese food, you could try lawar getih, a specialty of Tenganan Penggringsingan village, home to the indigenous Balinese Aga, in Karangasem, eastern Bali. Lawar means thinly sliced and this dish is found in every corner of Bali, each area having its own special characteristics and ingredients. Some lawar dishes use chopped young coconut, unripe jackfruit and string beans mixed with shrimp paste, chili, turmeric, galangal and other local herbs and spices. But in Tenganan, lawar getih is a favorite meal. This form of lawar is a mixture of sliced grilled pork, intestines, liver and pig’s blood with spicy base pelalah (a Balinese spice mix). Ketut Sudiastika, village head of Tenganan Penggringsingan, said that lawar getih was usually served during special ceremonies. “It is made by the men of the village, but this doesn’t mean that girls and women don’t eat it,” he said. Lawar getih has to be made very carefully. After all the ingredients have been prepared, they are mixed with the spices. “After that, the pig’s blood is slowly added, just enough to give the lawar a reddish tinge,” he said. Lawar getih is best served with nyuhnyuh klau — grated, spicy coconut meat. “Every food has its perfect partner. Lawar barak is served with grilled pork satay, lawar getih is served with nyuhnyuh klau. It’s an unwritten culinary rule here in Tenganan,” he explained. The coconut meat has to be grated with a klau, a special utensil native to Tenganan village. ”Otherwise, the grated coconut will taste bad,” he said. Lawar getih is usually served during Meketus Jambot, a ritual for toddlers, or during a ritual held one month before Perang Pandan, the battle of the pandan leaves and is always consumed communally. “We never use spoons or forks. We use our fingers — gifts from God — to enjoy this delicious meal.”
May 7, 2015
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Sport
Run Till You Drop! “A casual run on Serangan Island”
WORDS AND PHOTOS INDORUNNERS BALI
M
ore than 180 fitness enthusiasts gathered last Sunday to challenge their endurance and run in the unique setting of Serangan Island’s boulevard for two or three hours non-stop. Complemented by lush greenery and the sunrise in the east, this second fun run organized by IndoRunners Bali — the largest running community in Bali, encompassed 2.8 kilometers for each loop. This time, there were even more fun gimmicks for the runners to revel in. Previously held at the same venue, Run Till You Drop! is one of several special activities organized by IndoRunners Bali to elevate the workout experience by inviting runners to enjoy the beauty of a particular destination. The participants themselves were clad in colorful outfits with glowing accessories to create excitement and a sense of curiosity in anyone who saw the runners pass along the route. With Rise to the Challenge! as the tag line, participants, from beginners to professionals, came from various
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backgrounds and all age groups to share the joy of running. Run Till You Drop! is one of the community’s missions to spread the “virus” of running throughout Indonesia and to establish running as a daily lifestyle instead of seasonal trend. Before the run, participants joined pre-workout stretching led by international triathlon champion Andy Wibowo. The main procession kicked off at 6:30 a.m. Andy Wibowo and Ni Kadek Sukarniti were named grand winners of the two-hour challenge category, while Samgar Kamlasi and Stefanie Citrajaya were crowned the ultimate champions of the three-hour challenge. “All the runners were challenged to keep running, be it sprinting or jogging, and to complete as many loops as possible within the specified two- or three-hour duration they had chosen at registration. This is also one of our ideas to share unique experiential moments with our members who follow our weekly running schedule, as well as runners who are yet to join us,” said Angga Adhitya Syailendra, public
relations for IndoRunners Bali. Surrounded by untamed lush greenery, Serangan Island was chosen as an idyllic venue for those who love running, providing a great sunrise view and the opportunity to challenge their personal endurance both on a decent road track and sandy trails by the sea. “We also hope that this event will inspire more people in Bali to run and join us, as this kind of workout offers great health benefits, is easy, affordable and a great way to escape from a bustling daily routine,” Angga said.
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www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.
Island Buzz Starfish Bloo’s new chef de cuisine W Retreat and Spa Bali Seminyak is introducing Matthew McCool as the new chef de cuisine for its signature restaurant, the elegant beachside destination Starfish Bloo. McCool was previously at Altitude Restaurant at Sydney’s Shangri-La Hotel, which earned three hats from the prestigious Galut&Millau Australia. McCool cut his teeth with a traineeship under worldrenowned chef Gordon Ramsay at his three-star Michelin restaurant in London, in addition to working with Tom Aikens at two-star Michelin restaurant Chez Bruce. Moving to Asia in 2010, McCool was appointed chef de cuisine at Aria at China World Hotel, Beijing, which earned him Chef of the Year in the 2011 Time Out Beijing Awards and Restaurant of the Year from City Weekend Beijing. Speaking on his appointment, McCool said he was eager to showcase the best of Bali’s natural produce. “I’m really excited to be heading up the kitchen at Starfish Bloo. The resort is like no other property in Bali, offering pure luxury in the perfect location, and the W brand was a natural fit for me. I’m always looking for innovative ideas and cutting-edge approaches I can bring to my cooking; a philosophy that W Hotels brings to every aspect of the guest experience,” he said.
Cristal and Caviar Champagne Dinner “Join us in our pursuit of subtlety and wonder – so that when you taste our wines, you’ll taste the spirit that inspired their creation,” said Louis Roederer. The St. Regis Bali Resort proudly presents a Cristal and Caviar Champagne Dinner, featuring the world’s most illustrious Cristal Champagnes paired with the exquisite Sturia caviar. This unrivaled evening of gastronomic excellence presents a masterfully matched six-course menu, specially created by chef de cuisine Ketut Gunatika under the guidance of chef Agung Gede. Curate magical moments for the palate with six Louis Roederer vintages, including the prestigious Cristal Brut 2005 and 2006 and Cristal Brut Magnum 2006. The jewel of the House of Louis Roederer, Cristal, was conjured in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II. A true embodiment of subtlety and precision, this exquisite cuvée has been synonymous with the world’s greats ever since. Chief Sommelier Harald Wiesmann hosts the evening with Michel Janneau, vice president of Louis Roederer. The bespoke six-course degustation menu with wine pairing will begin with Champagne and aperitifs from 7 p.m. on Friday, June 5, at Kayuputi Bar, The St. Regis Bali Resort. Advance booking is required as seats to this exclusive event are very limited. Tickets cost Rp 3,800,000 (US$292) net per person. For reservations, call (0361) 300 6786 or email kayuputi.bali@stregis.com. May 7, 2015
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Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com Umalagon 008 with Skinnerbox May 7 From 11 p.m. – 4 a.m. Jenja at Townsquare Suites Jl. Nakula No. 18, Seminyak Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604
Food & Drinks canggu
Berawa Beach Tavern Great tavern to enjoy sunset with cold beer, barbeque, hot dogs, and sports. Jl. Perancak, Berawa, Canggu
W presents
May 17 Ben La Desh From 4 p.m. – 10 p.m. Woobar at W Retreat Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106
Events Calendar of Events
Colors of Celebes April 15 - May 15 Enjoy Sulawesi cuisine and music at The Stones. Renowned for fish and spices, this is only for those with bold taste buds! The Long Rice Table The Stones Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta : (0361) 3005888 Holi Water Festival May 9 Starts 3 p.m. Prepare for an awesome rave party with water, music and colors. Tickets Rp 200,000, including color bag and drink. Klapa New Kuta Beach, Pecatu : (0361) 8484581 Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every Thursday From 8 - 11 a.m. Come and join the fun of sharing farm duties, workshops, etc. Kul Kul Farm Bali Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, Badung E-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297 Pecha Kucha Night May 12 Starts 7 p.m. BetelNut Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud www.pechakucha.org/cities/ubud Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality. Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888
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May 7, 2015
Echo Beach House Restaurant Every sunset, legendary barbecue with fresh seafood, prawns and lobsters, imported steaks, mouthwatering ribs and fresh, organic salads. Jl. Pura Batu Mejan, Canggu : (0361) 7474604
Denpasar
Kopi Bali A tiny, old school coffee shop selling Bali’s original Butterfly Globe coffee, founded in 1935. Jl. Gajah Mada No. 80, Denpasar
Jimbaran
Furama Café Good seafood at an affordable price and just the right sized portion. Jl. Pantai Kedonganan, Jimbaran : (0361) 7470805
Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud : (0361) 974244 info@studioperak.com
Rafting Sobek Bali Largest transport network in Bali. Comfortable, airconditioned vehicles linked by radio to monitor client journeys. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 257, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar : (0361) 729016
Tour & Travel Agent
Spa
Bumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee. Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan
Warung Mak Beng Traditional Balinese fish dishes. Jl. Hang tuah No. 45, Sanur
Seminyak
Fayola A tiny café in Seminyak serving great healthy food. Don’t forget their desserts! Jl. Raya Seminyak Gg. 14, Seminyak (in front of Ryoshi)
Ubud
Kagemusha Light and simple Japanese food reminds you of real Japanese home cooking. Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud : (0361) 973134
Activities Courses Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x : (0361) 7452045 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220
Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran - Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan - : (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu - : (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran : (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran : (0361) 4729081
Papaya Fresh Gallery Jl. Mertanadi, Kuta
ART & CULTURE CORNER Denpasar
Kuta
Sanur
Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A.11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud
Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia. Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience. Head Office Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 www.peramatour.com
Kerobokan
WOWCOW This Australian brand frozen yogurt adds more choices for yogurt lovers. Beachwalk, 2nd Floor Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta
Shopping
Eastern Garden Martha Tilaar Spa Luxurious, holistic traditional spa. Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 5A, Seminyak : (0361) 731648
Waterpark Waterbom Bali More than 21 world-class waterslides and leisure facilities for all ages. Located in the heart of Kuta. Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 755676 Email: info@waterbom-bali.com New Kuta Green Park Young family recreation with a water park and outbound activities. Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu, Kuta Selatan : (0361) 8484777
Paragliding
Bali Paragliders Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 12 A / 99 Blok A5, Kuta : (0361) 704 769 Email: info@baliparagliders.com www.baliparagliders.com
Yoga Bikram Yoga Istana Kuta Galleria Blok VL No. 12 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta : (0361) 769040 Manik Organik Yoga Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 85, Sanur : (0361) 8553380
Trekking Bali Trekking Tour Explore Bali with experienced guides and savor unforgettable moments. : 0878 618 63656 www.balitrekkingtour.com
Barong & Keris Dance Everyday Starts 9 a.m. Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 224596
Jimbaran
Kecak & Fire Dance Everyday Starts 6 p.m. Uluwatu Temple Jimbaran, Badung : (0361) 9041163
Kuta
Traditional & Modern Performances Every day (Except Wednesday) Starts 8 p.m. Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta : (0361) 762750
Ubud
Calonarang Dance Every Thursday, Sunday Starts 7:30 p.m. Mawang village, Ubud Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Every Friday Starts 7 p.m. Bentuyung Village, Ubud Legong Dance Every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m. Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera) Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud : (0361) 972124 or 970503 Ramayana Dance Every Tuesday Starts 7:30 p.m. Puri Ubud, Jl. Raya Ubud Wayang Kulit Every Saturday Starts 8 p.m. Oka Kartini Jl. Raya Ubud
Where to go
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U Paasha 2nd Anniversary Promo Until May 31 Book your stay now! U Paasha Seminyak Jl. Laksmana No. 77, Seminyak : (0361) 8465977 E-mail: reserve@upaashaseminyak.com
Bali: The Island of Colors
Until May 10 Oil painting exhibition by Gorns Buchmann. Open daily to the public and providing a beautiful addition to the outstanding resort. Melia Bali, Nusa Dua
Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA
Pulaki Gilimanuk
Mt. Sangiang
Mt. Batur Mt. Musi
West Bali National Park
Besakih Mt. Agung
NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi
AMLAPURA Sangeh
Ubud
BANGLI
5 KLUNGKUNG
TABANAN
GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan
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DENPASAR
Canggu Seminyak 1 Legian 4 Kuta Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport
Jimbaran
Sanur
Benoa
Pura Batu Madan
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Nusa Dua
Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Penida Island
MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali
French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment. Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com metisbali.com
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Om Ham Retreat Tjakra 7 Spa
Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian : (0361) 762500 pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com
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Enjoy peaceful Ubud with high-class accommodation and space to rejuvenate body and spirit in a yoga and spirit therapy center. Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud : (0361) 9000352 omhamretreat.com
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May 7, 2015
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Art
The magical
Garuda
“Indian performers mesmerize with a powerful dance-drama on the much-loved mythical bird”
Words and Photos Anggara Mahendra
T
he stage at Taman Ayun, the royal water temple and a prime tourist destination in Mengwi, Badung, was overflowing with energy and excitement Monday night when the 17-member troupe of Chhau artists from eastern India performed a dance-drama based on the Garuda and Vasuki legend. Garuda is very popular in Bali and Indonesia. The guardian of the Amerta elixir of immortality and the mount of Lord Wisnu the preserver, Garuda is portrayed in Hindu legend as a terribly powerful bird that slew dragons and fought the gods in order to free his mother from slavery. So inspired were Indonesia’s founding fathers by Garuda’s struggle that they chose its likeness as the national emblem of the infant nation. The performance, held as part of the ongoing Sahabat India — The Festival of
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May 7, 2015
India in Indonesia 2015, drew a large crowd of government officials, community figures, as well as bendesa (chiefs) of customary villages and students. Titled Mahanayak Garuda, literally Garuda the great hero, the masked dance-drama depicted Garuda’s journey in four acts: Garuda-Vasuki (the battle between Garuda and Vasuki), Garuda-Bhaskar (Garuda to swallow the sun), Garuda-Vahana (Garuda’s encounter, fight and subsequent alliance with Lord Wisnu) and Narakasura-Vadh (Lord Wisnu kills Narakasura). The action-packed dance-drama was the perfect medium to underline the best traits of Chhau, a genre of Indian traditional dance that is heavily influenced by martial arts. Stylized martial practices and combat techniques are a major part of the Chhau dance style.
The colorful masks worn by the artists, their graceful and nimble movements and the accompanying folk music succeeded in enthralling the audience. After the dancedrama, the troupe also performed the famous Chhau Shiva Tandava dance. India’s consul general in Bali, AS Takhi, stated that the Chhau dance was an ancient traditional dance from eastern India, performed by male artistes, emphasizing that the dancers depicted the story and their artistic expressions through body movements, particularly since their faces were covered by masks. He also pointed out that the masks worn by Chhau dancers had similarities to masks worn by Noh dancers in Japan and Wayang Wong in Java and Bali.
Both the Chhau dance and Bali’s cultural landscape, as depicted in the traditional subak irrigation system around the Taman Ayun royal temple, have been recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. “The Sahabat India Festival, which has been running in 16 cities in archipelagic Indonesia since January 2015, has been drawing huge applause and appreciation from Indonesian friends and has been very successful in deepening our brotherly ties,” Takhi said. The Chhau dancers had earlier performed at the Asian-African Carnival held in Bandung April 23-26. Their Indonesia tour is being supported by the Sangeet Natak Akademi, New Delhi and the Indian Ministry of Culture.