Bali Buzz #21

Vol. 1/january 15-january 21, 2015

The divine’s show

of ‘Mejangkrikan’

force A taste of Indonesia

Sekumpul waterfall

from THE editor

Ritual

05

Attractive and unique religious rituals are a permanent fixture in the island’s daily life and one of its tourist industry’s strongest selling points.

For the Balinese, all these rituals are their way of maintaining the cosmic balance, a symbolic act of giving back to after taking so much from the universe. Without these rituals, cosmic imbalance will take place and natural disasters, which are perceived by many as the expression of the divine’s wrath, will soon follow.

That is the main reason the Balinese are so passionate about organizing rituals, some of which are not only costly but also demand prolonged personal involvement.

In this issue we shine a light on ngerebong, one of the most breathtaking rituals on the island, to provide our readers with another side of the local belief system, an ancient religion in which the gods are still very much involved in the daily affairs of their devotees.

— The Editor

Contents

03

04

‘Mejangkrikan’

‘Dvarapala’ Guardians of the gates

06 07 08 10 11 12 16

Home cooking-inspired Chinese dishes at Table8

Sekumpul waterfall ‘Mepeed’ The divine’s show of force Blahkiuh village A day in the tranquil and spiritual Palasari village Nusa Penida: A picture of Sanur in the 1950s A taste of Indonesia

Cover Photo: Agung Parameswara

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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Fikri Zaki Muhammadi, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Intan Indahsari, Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

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January 15, 2015

images

‘Mejangkrikan’ “The art of cricket fighting in Bali” WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA

C

ockfighting may be regarded as the age-old animal fighting tradition in Bali, held as part of temple rituals as well as for amusement.

But cricket fighting, or mejangkrikan in the Balinese language, is also a big deal here.

It may sound like kids’ stuff, but cricket fighting is beyond a serious sporting event for many adults in both villages and urban areas.

Cricket fighting enthusiasts are usually older men who grew up prior to multi-channel TV stations and digital games.

The Balinese, especially farmers and their children, treat singing crickets as pets and a source of beautiful nighttime music. But some also raise and train these small insects as legions of fighters ready to face their opponents in the many

cricket championships.

Many are curious as to why the Balinese are so fond of cricket fighting. One man in a market recalled the old times, when cricket fighting provided entertainment and cheered him up after helping his farmer parents in the rice fields.

Another said it was an easily available and amusing leisure activity for village boys, who never had any money to buy modern toys. It was also a time for villagers to share their leisure time.

The fights have quite strict rules: the opposing crickets must be of similar size and in good health, meaning that all the bodily organs are intact. Should the rules be met, the two competing crickets face off against each other in a fierce fight in bamboo tubes called bumbung.

The cricket handlers poke and prod their “fighters” with a piece of hay or a small twig to make them aggressive and get into a fighting mood.

The fights may last just a few seconds, with the winner being the one that is still ready to fight, while the loser is the one that runs away from the battle or stops chirping.

This being Bali, the merits of cricket fighting are sure to entail betting on the side, with a two-minute fight sometimes seeing individual bets of Rp 100,000 (US$7.93) to Rp 200,000.

Cricket fighting is always associated with the olden days, but this Lilliputian blood sport still has many devoted followers even today.

January 15, 2015

3

Sight

‘Dvarapala’

Guardians of the gates

“They are most regularly portrayed as fearsome warriors or giants, often holding the gadha, a mace-like weapon, in one of their hands, or a dagger” Words and photos Chris O’Connor

I

t’s impossible to miss the fearsome and intricate stone carvings and statues that flank many temple and household gates and doors throughout Bali. They are probably one of the most photographed features on the island and yet possibly one of the least understood.

These diverse gate guardians are known generically as dvarapala and are one of the most abundant architectural elements seen throughout all the Hindu- and Buddhistinfluenced nations. The Balinese versions appear to be a mix of both local style and Javanese Majapahit-inspired stone reliefs and statues. The main function is to protect and to prevent dark influences entering into a space via the threshold they guard.

The name itself is a simple joining of two Sanskrit words: dvara meaning gate and pala meaning protector. Traditionally, pairs of dvarapala were on duty, one each side of a temple or palace gate. But in Bali, as elsewhere, the modern usage has extended to shrines, temples, homes, government office complexes and even whole villages.

While their form differs and can include just about anything from people to serpents, they are most regularly portrayed as fearsome warriors or giants, often holding the gadha, a mace like weapon, in one of their hands, or a dagger.

The mace, as a weapon of Hanuman, holds symbolic value, but it is perhaps from the warriors Bhima, Duryodhana, Jarasandha and Balarama, who feature heavily in the epic and popular Mahabharata, that the major influence is drawn. These noble warriors are known

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masters of the mace and, as warriors who fight evil, they also embody a noble protective spirit.

The kris is the traditional Balinese warriors’ weapon.

Apart from the mace-wielding ogre-like dvarapala, Hanuman (the white faced monkey god) features quite heavily, since with his noble spirit he is seen as “the protector who requires no reward”. Similarly, Ganesha “the remover of obstacles” and the black-faced giant Ratu Gede also often feature.

The statues generally represent tutelary gods or sprits, which means they are protectors of a specific place, person or even a feature. As with many aspects of Balinese culture and religion, the influence may also be extremely local and personal.

Two of the most popular, and perhaps unlikely, dvarapala figures, especially but not

exclusively for homes, are the extremely popular Wayang characters of Tualen (sometimes referred to as Twalen) and Merdah. They are in fact half of the Punakawan quartet that also includes Sangut and Delem, who together represent four characteristic human behaviors.

These characters are directly evolved from Javanese wayang and, like their peers, are the ever-present clown servants of the hero in any wayang performance.

The descriptions of the characteristics of the pair hint at why they are seen as protectors. Tualen is always presented as a thoughtful, contemplative character, who is simple and full of wisdom. He will preach the truth without coercion, without being patronizing and always full of modesty. It is, in its most basic form, a lesson in how to behave properly.

Merdah, on the other hand, is a bold and confident character and wayang stories suggest that from his actions we are invited to learn that the truth must always be executed in a manner that is righteous.

Both of these characteristics are key to the core values on which Balinese society is based, both historically and in the modern age, and represent very powerful imagery.

Added to the local love of wayang, especially its slapstick comedy, it is unsurprising to see these court jesters holding such a prominent and important role in a family or temple as the dvarapala.

Savor

L

ocated on the promenade level of The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas Nusa Dua, Table8 has introduced the island to an abundant oriental culinary experience that pampers every taste bud.

From the elegantly displayed buffet served across seven stations, to the exclusively crafted signature dishes on the a la carte menu, these home cooking-inspired dishes provide patrons with a feast.

To start the oriental culinary adventure, patrons can begin with chilled mini-plated appetizers.

Try Marinated Jellyfish sprinkled with sesame seeds for its unique flavor, or the steamed Drunken Prawn marinated in Chinese wine.

Other delicate displays of cold appetizers include chili vinegar-marinated pork knuckle and sliced marinated beef shank.

Diners can also warm themselves with various choices of clay pots, the favorite of which is Sapo Vermicelli Black Pepper Prawn, closely followed by Sapo Chicken Zhe Zhe, Sapo Shrimp Paste Lettuce and Sapo Roasted Pork, Tofu and Shrimp Paste.

At the soup station, the cooks are ready with fresh beef, chicken, fish and vegetables prepared to your individual preference, especially delicious for those craving a hot liquid dish.

The stir-fry station serves freshly cooked

Home cooking-inspired Chinese dishes at Table8 “Table8 offers a stylish Chinese buffet that is the first of its kind in Bali” WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF TABLE8

mains and side dishes, complemented by a range of flavorful sauces.

Ready-cooked dishes of chili crabs, delicious home-cooked tofu, vegetables and fish with oyster sauce and a variety of other tempting treats are on standby for those wanting a quick bite.

A spread of dim sum favorites is always available on the dim sum buffet, including har gao, siu mai and char siu bao. Served in bamboo dim sum boxes, this delectable cuisine can be steamed or fried, according to your preference.

For a deeper dive into the Chinese culinary experience, patrons can savor a lavish spread from the a la carte menu, featuring a rich selection from the culinary team, including the signature Buddha Jump Over The Wall and Australian Five Head Whole Abalone braised

with wild mushroom or Roasted Suckling Pig. A scrumptious variety of sweet desserts are served to bring the luxurious repast to a close, with jellies, chocolates and fruity dishes available, including mango cream with pearl sago, mango pudding topped with milk, brown sugar cake, coffee layer pudding and a sunflower pudding of chilled aloe vera with chrysanthemum.

To complete the authentic dining experience, try the XuangXi Flower Tea, which is served in true Chinese tradition in a long glass with a round bundle of flowers inside.

The tea master then showcases his masterful enchanting martial art-inspired movements with a long-nosed brass kettle as he pours the hot water into the glass causing the flower to blossom.

The Ginseng Dragon, a combination of red

grape, apple juice, mint leaves, cinnamon syrup and rose tea, is truly refreshing. There is also Beijing Shangria Tea, a mixture of blackcurrant tea, cranberry juice, strawberry-infused sugar, peach and orange.

With large dining tables and sofas, the restaurant can accommodate up to 100 guests.

It also has the Ci Xi Suite, an elegant private dining room inspired by China’s Empress Dowager Ci Xi and decorated with pieces of her art.

Diners will be mesmerized with the combination of classic and contemporary elements that harmoniously blend to create an elegant and soothing atmosphere. At night, Table8’s contemporary and artful lighting emphasizes the restaurant’s warm colors.

Table8 is the most recent addition to the dining venues of The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas Nusa Dua, Bali, which last year won the top Beach Resort in the World in the Condé Nast Traveler US — Readers’ Choice Awards 2014 and came number three in Top 100 Hotels and Resorts in the World.

The restaurant joins the array of culinary journeys offered at the resort, including The Cafe — an international selection of live cooking stations; Soleil — a beachfront restaurant serving Mediterranean with PanAsian cuisines and Edogin — an authentic Japanese dining experience with live Teppanyaki.

Table8 is open every day and serves lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m., with a la carte available throughout the day.

The presence of this signature oriental restaurant truly brings the culinary experience to a whole new level.

January 15, 2015

5

Sight

“This hidden gem in north Bali is touted as the most beautiful waterfall on the island�

Sekumpul waterfall

Words and Photos Bram Setiawan

B

ali is home to numerous waterfalls in the midst of verdant landscapes of tropical vegetation.

Among the island’s most beautiful but less explored waterfalls is Sekumpul in the Sawan district of Buleleng, some 75 kilometers from Denpasar, or 20 kilometers from Singaraja.

There are two routes to get to this amazing waterfall. The first is from Singaraja, taking the road to Sekumpul village.

The second is by turning right at a junction located some 10 km from the famous Bedugul and just driving along the road until you arrive at the entrance to the waterfall.

However, the second route is not really recommended because the path heading to the waterfall is bumpy and too narrow for visitors in a car.

After you park your vehicle, you have to traverse a footpath and descend hundreds of stairs, however, the path to the waterfall is a permanent one and thus is quite safe.

While descending the stairway, visitors can enjoy the stunning view of lush green hills and pass through a coffee plantation belonging to the local people. The greenery and much cooler weather are both relaxing and refreshing.

If you feel tired along the way, rest at a gazebo located in the midst of the hundreds of stairs, from where you can enjoy the scenic panorama of the 28-meter high waterfall from a distance.

At the end of the stairs, you have to cross a bridge and trek a few meters along a dirt road, but your effort will surely be worthwhile.

The roaring sound of the waterfall and the splashing water welcomes you as you arrive by the pool. The torrent of water sprays over you,

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January 15, 2015

even from a distance of 10 meters.

There are two waterfalls here, situated side by side.

The name Sekumpul is taken from the village of the same name. The locals say that sekumpul is taken from kumpulan (a group of) in the Indonesian language and refers to the group of waterfalls located in the vicinity.

Some 50 meters from Sekumpul is Gerombong waterfall in the neighboring Lemukih village.

There are at least seven waterfalls in the vicinity, separated by cliffs and verdant hills, so it is unsurprising to know the area is dubbed Seven Points Waterfalls.

Sipping a coffee while basking in the relaxing ambience is a good choice before the hike back up the hill.

Domestic visitors pay Rp 2,000 (16 US cents) to enter, while foreigners are charged Rp 5,000.

Soul

‘Mepeed’ “A grand procession expressing devotion and gratitude” WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA

D

ozens of women clad in white embroidered kebaya (the traditional Balinese blouse) and wrapped in endek woven textile carried enormous family offerings containing beautiful crowns of colorful flowers, fresh fruit, cakes and delicate decorations on their heads in a grand procession from their village in Desa Kukuh to Pura Dalem Khayangan Alas Kedaton, a temple located within the forest of Alas Kedaton in Tabanan regency.

The grand procession, locally known as Mepeed, takes place 10 days after the Balinese Hindu Kuningan festival, which falls every 210 days according to the Balinese lunar calendar.

Most recently, Kuningan fell on Dec. 27, 2014, and the Mepeed ritual was held on Jan. 6.

Derived from the Balinese word peed, mepeed means “marching in a parade”. The tradition is believed to have existed since the early 17th century and has become one of the island’s most precious cultural heritages, most-awaited occasions and photographic opportunity.

Mepeed is usually held as part of a temple celebration, or odalan.

Women from 12 hamlets in Desa Kukuh village in Tabanan regency, some 20 kilometers northwest of Denpasar, devotedly spent time preparing the one-meter high offerings, called gebogan, which are made of a banana trunk decorated with a variety of cakes, fruit and flowers attached to the trunk with skewers.

The Balinese view offerings foremost as gifts to deities, ancestors and all visible and invisible forces that inhabit the island.

Offerings are considered the most important element to create a harmonious relationship between human beings and their creator, the deities, ancestors and intangible forces that

affect the living condition of the people on the island.

The arduous effort of the women making these elaborate and intricate offerings is a form of their devotion, like a prayer, an act of gratitude and thankfulness. The women carefully choose the most delicious cakes, fresh fruit and other components to make their offerings as beautiful as possible in the hope that the gods will enjoy their presentation.

When the Balinese create an offering dedicated to the deities, they are expressing their thankfulness for their prosperous life, fertile soil and abundant wealth.

When an offering is made for deceased relatives, they hope it will help the souls have a smooth transition to their afterlife. Similarly, when an offering is made for demons and the creatures of the underworld, it is meant to appease them and stop them from disturbing human beings.

Seeing these petite figures carrying towering, heavy offerings atop their heads is an iconic site on the island. During the Mepeed tradition, they smile graciously, the heavy offerings seemingly no burden for these dedicated, devoted women, as they fully understand they are presenting their most beautiful gifts to their gods.

Upon arrival at Pura Dalem Khayangan Alas Kedaton, the women placed their offerings in the temple to be purified by the temple’s priest.

A few minutes later, they performed a special prayer without flowers or incense.

The people of Kukuh strongly believe that the entire ritual, which must end before 7 p.m., brings harmony and prosperity to the village and its people, as well as to the entire island of Bali.

January 15, 2015

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Cover Story

A

The divine’s show

of

force

“The blades inflicted no injury or pain, a testament of the divine protection that rendered their mortal bodies invulnerable” WORDS I WAYAN JUNIARTA PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA

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January 15, 2015

week after the Kuningan festival, during which Balinese Hindus renew their promise to defend dharma (virtue) against adharma (vice), the people of Kesiman partake in an impressive temple festival, where dozens of devotees fall into a state of trance and stab their own bodies with daggers to show the world the power of their divine protectors.

Staged in Pengrebongan temple in East Denpasar, the ritual, known as ngerebong, has evolved into a must-see event on the itinerary of the island’s tour operators. Naturally, foreign visitors and throngs of photographers have become a permanent feature of the festival.

For the people of Kesiman, which was once a kingdom feared for its powerful army, the ritual still fills their hearts with a sense of wonder and pride.

“After the Kuningan celebration comes ngerebong, during which the gods and the heavenly army make a show of force to make it known to any beings, evil spirits in particular, that they will continuously protect dharma and the human race,” a member of the Kesiman royal family, AA Sagung Mas Ruscitadewi, said.

“It is said the word ngerebong is derived from ngerehan and bengong. The first word refers to an action to summon a supernatural power and later to make that power visible, while the second refers to a state of [enemies] being mesmerized by that power.”

Thousands of white-clad devotees performed a prayer before dozens of sacred effigies of Ratu Ayu (the queen of beauty), the silver-haired goddess with terrifying fangs and a flaming tongue, and the mythical lion, barong, as well as small statues made of precious wood and gems known as pretima. These are all the earthly representations of the divine gods that for centuries have served as the focus of the villagers’ reverence and adoration.

As the bearers of the sacred effigies prepared themselves by inhaling the smoke of the fragrant sandalwood fire, Kesiman’s young and

adult males waited in expectation, wondering whether they would be the chosen warriors.

When the bearers fell into a trance, the attendants hurriedly put the masks of Ratu Ayu and barong on those bearers. At the first scream of Ratu Ayu, several devotees fell into the state of trance. Soon, the invisible “charms” engulfed the crowded yard of the temple and, in every corner, male devotees fell and surrendered their bodies to the divine power.

They screamed and extended their hands as if trying to grab something. The ritual officials immediately distributed kris daggers to these men.

They could still see and hear, but they had lost control of their bodies. They saw in amazement as their hands lifted the daggers and thrust the steel blades at various parts of their bodies. The blades inflicted no injury or pain, a testament of the divine protection that rendered their mortal bodies invulnerable. This stabbing rite is known as ngurek to the locals.

Some stabbed the wavy dagger into the left side of their chest, where their heart is. Others thrust the steel knife into the soft spot below

their Adam’s apple.

A Western female visitor gasped in terror.

Yet, the kris drew no blood. Nobody was hurt in the ritual. Indeed, in some cases, it was the iron kris that was damaged.

“I felt something enter my head and suddenly I lost control of my body. I could still hear and see everything, but I couldn’t command my body,” said Ngurah Lepo of his experience.

A young man with a rebellious heart and a tattooed body, Lepo is a member of the Kesiman royal family. He recalled how in his high school years he had several times refused to go to the temple during the ritual for fear of falling into the state of trance.

“I was a bit embarrassed about losing my consciousness in front of hundreds of people,” he said grinning.

His attempts failed miserably. The moment the devotees fell into trance in the temple, a similar thing happened to Lepo inside his room in Puri Kajanan palace and his family would have to escort him as Lepo screamed and sprinted to the temple one kilometer away.

The men in trance were escorted by their relatives to circle the temple’s outer yard three times, before being taken back into the temple’s inner yard, where a group of elderly temple priests sprinkled them with holy water.

This act ended their trance.

The Kesiman people believe that ngerebong is a show of force aimed at striking terror into the heart of evil spirits. Through the ritual, the deities of Kesiman display their power and ability to protect their subjects.

“We believe that the heavenly army entered the bodies of our men, and through ngurek these divine soldiers have displayed their invincibility,” Ruscitadewi added.

Ngurek is the public face of the ngerebong, yet it is not its only face. She revealed that during ngurek, the temple priests and community leaders also fell into a state of trance in the temple’s inner sanctum.

“It is not a violent one. They either dance slowly or just sit and sob quietly. We believe that the deities, and not the spirits of the heavenly army, have taken over their bodies.”

January 15, 2015

9

Savor

Blahkiuh village “Home of Bali’s ‘jaka’ palm wine” Words and Photos Bram Setiawan

E

very day, Ketut Miasa Hartana climbs a tall sugar palm tree, locally known as jaka or enau, in front of his humble home in Blahkiuh village in Badung regency, some 15 kilometers northwest of Denpasar.

Equipped with a knife and a wooden tool, Hartana examines the jaka fruit to find the best flower buds, the essential ingredient to produce tasty palm wine, known as tuak in the Balinese language.

Hartana does this twice a day, morning and afternoon.

“I have been producing tuak since I was 17 years old. My father taught me how to take the sweet sugary juice from the sap of the flower buds and young fruit and to brew and ferment it for a certain time to produce delicious palm wine,” said the 42-year-old.

Thanks to Mother Nature, Blahkiuh village is blessed with fertile soil and the village is surrounded by vast rice fields and an abundance of sugar palm trees.

Many local residents produce tuak for additional income. “Producing delicious tuak is easy, as long as people know exactly the right time to harvest and tap the flower bud and fruit sap,” explained Hartana.

Courage is another challenge. “Some people are afraid of climbing such a tall tree. This is a real test for tuak producers, having the nerve to get the sap from high up in the tree,” he said.

A medium-sized tree can grow to 20 meters tall and the trunk is covered in the rough bases of old leaves.

Hartana said sugar palm trees took at least six years to bear fruit. “When a tree is mature enough, it will have lots of flowers and fruit.

Lots of bees usually fly around the ripe fruit.

That is the right time to tap the sap.”

The fruit ripens for between three and four months as it gradually turns brown. A month before harvesting, Hartana tightens a rope around the tree trunk and climbs the tree, hitting the trunk softly with a piece of wood for ten minutes every three days to accelerate the flow of the sap. The juice from the first harvest usually tastes very sweet.

“Buyers actually prefer bitter palm wine.

So I have to add coconut fibers to the boiling juice to reduce the sweetness and increase the alcoholic content,” he said.

High quality tuak should be placed in covered bottles or cans to maintain its taste and color. Sweet tuak is white, while bitter tuak is red. ”It tastes good three days after production,” he said.

Hartana can produce a jerry can of tuak every day and sells bottles of the beverage for around Rp 5,000 to Rp 6,000 (40-47 US cents).

“But it depends on the weather. During the rainy season, tuak production is often curtailed. Besides, it is quite dangerous to

climb a 20-30-meter tree on rainy days.”

People usually order tuak three days in advance during the wet season. The sugar palm sap can also be processed into palm sugar. The young fruits are called kolang-kaling (jelly fruit) and are popularly consumed in a syrup drink.

“Interestingly, tuak jaka has health benefits.

A doctor from Tabanan has ordered my tuak to treat his patients who suffer from diabetes,” he

said proudly.

Tuak is a strong part of Balinese life and is very commonly drunk by the local people.

In Blahkiuh village, drinking tuak is a social occasion. Every afternoon, people, men in particular, sit and drink a glass or more of tuak with their meal, often of lawar barak — a local food made of grated coconut mixed with chopped pork and spices.

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January 15, 2015

Sight

“The majority of the residents are direct descendants of the 22 pioneering Catholic converts from Tuka and Bringkit villages in Badung regency, two other Catholic enclaves in Bali”

B

ali is unique in many ways. Despite its predominantly Hindu population, the island is also home to people of other faiths.

Palasari, a remote village in Jembrana in western Bali, is a peaceful place where Catholics have lived for many generations.

Palasari village was once a nutmeg forest, pala means nutmeg and sari means essence, although many people believe palasari refers to “merit” in relation to the village.

While the village is rarely included as a destination on normal tour packages as it is at least a three-hour drive from Denpasar, if you have enough time, it could be an interesting experience.

Rich in cultural and spiritual vibes, Palasari demonstrates a different, unique side of Bali.

Surrounded by lush plantations and carpets of rice fields, the village has a grand Catholic church, the Sacred Heart Church, at its center.

The majority of the residents are direct descendants of the 22 pioneering Catholic converts from Tuka and Bringkit villages in Badung regency, two other Catholic enclaves in Bali.

Led by priest Simon Buis, the 22 men traveled to Palasari to develop a 200-hectare plot of land granted to them by the king of Bali in 1940.

Petrus I Made Krismianto, one of the village’s leaders, said around 99 percent of the local residents were Catholic.

Krismianto, a second generation Palasari resident, explained the hilly village had been developed into a properly designed residential area, with each family granted a 1,500 to 2,000 square meter plot.

“There are 300 families with homes in the village. Some now also live in other places, like Denpasar, but they always return home for Christmas and the year-end holidays.”

The village has a wide road connecting everywhere, including the public schools, traditional market, community center, health facility, cemetery and, of course, the Sacred Heart Church — the village’s religious and cultural landmark.

Built on a 36,000 sqm plot of land, with construction starting in 1955 and completing three years later, Sacred Heart Church is a perfect blend of grand European Gothic and intricate and refined Balinese traditional styles.

Priest Ignatius AM de Vriese designed the church with the assistance of two Balinese undagi (traditional architects), Ida Bagus Tugur

A day in the tranquil and spiritual

Palasari village from Denpasar and I Gusti Nyoman Rai from Dalung in Badung regency.

Around 100 meters from the church, there is a cave known as Goa Maria, the cave of Maria.

Another name given to the cave by the locals is Palinggih Ida Kaniaka Maria Palasari, the sacred site of Maria, which was officially inaugurated by the ambassador of the Vatican to Indonesia, Leopold Girelli, in 2008.

The gateway to the cave is attractively decorated with several small statues of angels, while on entering, visitors can view wall painting portraying the Jesus Christ’s journey to his crucifixion.

The village’s other attractions are its pristine landscape and Palasari reservoir, located just 10 minutes’ drive from the church.

Many of the local people like to spend the afternoon by the reservoir, which was built in 1989 to conserve over 1 million cubic meters of water.

The green area in its vicinity is often used for camping and outbound activities.

“Residents here are all eager to develop Palasari as a site for spiritual tourism,” said Krismanto.

Palasari is a good representation of how Balinese Catholics hold strong to their traditional roots. “During Christmas, Easter and on other Christian holidays, people adorn our church with Balinese decorations, such as penjor — long bamboo poles decorated with woven coconut leaves, flowers and colorful paper.”

Children born to Palasari families still retain the typical Balinese names of Wayan for the eldest son or daughter, Made for the second child, Nyoman for the third and Ketut for the fourth child.

Palasari village is an excellent example of the clear cultural and religious acculturation that has taken place over the years.

January 15, 2015

11

Sight

Nusa Penida: A picture of Sanur in the 50s “An island blessed with towering cliffs, a deep blue ocean and raw natural beauty” WORDS AND PHOTOS ANGGARA MAHENDRA

L

et’s imagine passing along roads surrounded by hundreds of coconut trees, where the green of the leaves is in sharp contrast to the blue of the sky.

At a glance, the scene resembles a photograph of Sanur in the 1950s.

That is the first impression when wandering along the roads of Nusa Penida, an island in the territory of Klungkung regency.

You can reach Nusa Penida from Sanur beach by speed boat in about 30 minutes, depending on how rough the sea is. You can also reach the island from Padangbai port in Klungkung regency, where you can bring your own motorized vehicles on the ferry.

It would be a waste to sleep through the 30-minute journey. Prepare your camera and find the back seat near the boat’s engine, or a window from where you can enjoy the view.

When the weather is fine, you can even see Mount Agung from afar.

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Arriving at the local port, it is not hard to find motorcycles to rent. Crowds gather there offering motorcycle rental for around Rp 50,000 (US$3.98) for 24 hours. This mode of transport is the perfect way to travel around the island, which has relatively narrow and uneven asphalt roads.

Penida Beach, where tourists and local villagers surf, is about 15 minutes from the harbor.

A number of signs have been installed along the roads, pinpointing tourism destinations and temples around the island. However, you may well still need to ask around because the distance between signs is quite far.

Nusa Penida is an island blessed by many beautiful cliffs, although not all are easily accessible and most are found along dirt roads that force you to walk.

As one natural attraction gives way to another in the distance, you will find one day is just not enough to travel completely around the small island of Nusa Penida.

clads

Advertise with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com

SERVICES Accountant, tax consultant, QuickBooks expert. Call 0878 600 22239 anggra1@yahoo.com Aqua Fitness Courses and Aqua Bike Courses, Seminyak.

Call: 0818 054 19300 Baby sitter services. Contact me 0852 3810 0025 British photographer services available. Specialist in product & culinary photography. Fully equipped modern studio facilities. Call 08123 883532 CV Yazna Villa Management. Professional service for all needs. Located at Jl. Majapahit No.76 Kuta. Office 0361 767 108. Mobile 0812 382 3731 Do you need a consultant for your F&B outlet? Contact Fokus Hospitality for one-stop solution. 0361 274 0619 English private tutor offers English/Math tuition for children 5-12yrs. 7 years experience as a classroom teacher in UK & Australia. Call 0817 470 3070 Freelance driver, speaks English, is honest and reliable.

Contact: 0819 9996 1750

Indonesian lessons, free trial class. Contact: 0878 616 37555, nika.wirawan@gmail.com Jonsen Pet House. Dog boarding and playground. 0361 2727 645 / 0812 6304 5125. jonsenpethouse.com Made to order: bags, wallets, jackets, leather. Pls call 0819 3621 9030 Need a building contractor? Call 0881 460 2907 / 0812 360 9639 Painting courses, professional artist. Call 0361 837 2501 Private courses in the Chinese language. Simple system.

Call: 0818 055 60595 / 0813 382 17788 Private Indonesian language classes for foreigners. Call Dwi 0813 3870 5158 Private piano lessons for kids. Contact Steven, 0813 393 21615 / 089 651 434612

Freelance pool cleaner and garden services. Please call 0878 6017 0659

Private yoga lessons: in a studio, in a villa or in the comfort of your home. British teacher. All levels catered for.

0817 470 3070

Get your website on Google’s first page for more customers. Call/SMS 0811 380 151

Relaxing Thai massage for women. Contact: 0822 3760 3026

Home made jewelry. Silver and gold. Good price with high quality product. Call 081 7477 9129

Relaxing yoga, private classes. For more info, please call 0822 3760 302

Indonesian freelance cook. Text Elok 0813 902 36628 Indonesian lessons for foreigners provided at your home / office, native teacher. Sms/call: Ms. Asima 0821 468 50175 / email gemilangcourse@gmail.co, www. balipages.biz.learn.speak.indonesian.

Saxophone or guitar lessons at any level. SMS 0813 398 07682 Doug.

Swimming, private courses. For more information please call 0818 054 19300

Wood & composite decking specialist & carpenter. Email : woodworking.bali@yahoo.co.id 081999857305

Soap-making class, 4 hours, Rp 1 mill. Call 0813 287 16169, kesambibali@gmail.com

Web design, SEO, and video editing service. Portfolio : www.creativewebdesign.com Contact : 0819 9938 5206

www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.

Island Buzz PHM Hospitality wins Indonesia’s Leading Local Chain award PHM Hospitality announced it has been named Indonesia’s Leading Local Chain 2014/2015 by the Indonesia Travel & Tourism Award Foundation in December. Previously, PHM Hospitality was named Indonesia’s Leading Local Chain for 2012/2013.

At the same time, a PHM Hospitalitymanaged hotel, THE 1O1 Bali Legian, was named Indonesia’s Leading Lifestyle Hotel Bali 2014/2015.

THE 1O1 Bali Legian is a mid-scale premium hotel located in Legian, a legendary urban destination. The hotel is pioneering a chic and trendy lifestyle, offering five unique selling points such, as Smart Stylish Design, Smart Stylish Hospitality, Smart Stylish Destination, 1O1 Smart Living and Smart Stylish Booking.

It is suitable for both business and leisure travelers. THE 1O1 Bali Legian features 300 rooms, a rooftop dine and music lounge, meeting rooms, two swimming pools, alfresco restaurant, spa and mini gym.

Kristian Kuntadi, managing director of PHM Hospitality said: “It was a great honor for PHM Hospitality and our unit hotels to receive the awards as recognition of our mission to deliver unique and pleasant experiences for our customers through innovative and excellent services. In this regard, please let us extend our sincere gratitude to our stakeholders, particularly our employees, for their dedication to implement our mission. We promise to continuously seek for innovation and new ways in delivering unique services and values.”

Sweet Journey package with Pod Chocolate Harper Kuta Bali Hotel is introducing its honeymoon package, a romantic indulgence for couples to relive the sweet moment of their honeymoon.

Offered to couples, “Sweet Journey package with Pod Chocolate” includes three nights’ stay in a Harper Suite, return airport transfer, one set menu romantic dinner at Rustik Bistro & Bar, one 15-minute foot massage at The Spa and free daily mini bar.

The Harper Suites are located at the highest level of Harper Kuta Bali and offer an infinity view from the top floor with full glass wall and door to the balcony. At 43 sq.m., Harper Suites are spacious and comfortable with a living room and large sofa. Rustic charm is presented in warm and rich colors to offer comfort in the room.

Stunning Bali offers numerous romantic experiences for those looking to get out and explore and the hotel has teamed up with Pod Chocolate to experience chocolate from tree to chocolate bar in its Sweet Journey package. This includes return hotel transport, entry to Pod Chocolate boutique factory, Chocolate Shot welcome drink, lots of tasting (raw cocoa fruit, roasted beans and lots of chocolate) and chocolate making (14 chocolate elephants).

At Harper Kuta Bali Hotel, honeymooners can enjoy convenient access to the legendary Kuta Beach, numerous shopping arcades and a huge variety of entertainment.

Sweet Journey package with Pod Chocolate costs Rp 5,368,000 (US$427) plus tax and service per couple for three nights’ stay, valid until March 31, 2015.

January 15, 2015

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Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297 Metis Friday Aperochic Every Friday Nothing beats the true indulgence at the new Metis Lounge with its delicate tapas and cocktails!

Jl. Petitenget No. 6, Kerobokan A Mad T-Party Everyday From 2:30 – 5 p.m.

W Lounge at W Retreat & Spa Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106

Events Calendar of Events Bali Couchsurfing Weekly Rendezvous Jan. 16 Starts 8 p.m.

Friday meet with fellow couchsurfers and travelers, find travel buddies and share your experiences!

Warung Boekan Ramen Jl. Dewi Sri, Kuta International Conference of Emerging Markets Jan. 22 Grand Inna Kuta Jl. Pantai Kuta No. 1, Kuta Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.

Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Jazz Café: Unb’rocken Blues Band Jan. 17 Starts 8 p.m.

Jazz Café Jl. Sukma No. 2, Ubud The Lights of Faith - Theater show From Monday to Saturday Starts 8 p.m.

A cultural theater show to feel the magic of Bali in every story!

Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 762750 or Robert 0878 617997 Limbo Hip – Where The Night Starts Every Saturday Starts 8 p.m.

Get together with friends, mingle and get down to our DJ’s music.

La Finca Jl. Subak Sari No. 77, Batu Belig, Kerobokan

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January 15, 2015

Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality.

Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888 Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1.

Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604

Food & Drinks Canggu Groove Mini café with healthy and delicious snacks.

Jl. Pantai Berawa No. 34, Canggu Paris Baguette Boulangerie Patisserie French-style bakery in Canggu.

Jl. Subak Sari, Canggu

denpasar

Kerobokan Habitual – Quench & Feed Cozy restaurant famous for breakfast and lunch.

Jl. Umalas, Kerobokan : (0361) 9181801 Scratch Serving up Bali’s best comfort foods. Famous for their burgers!

Jl. Pengubengan Kauh, Kerobokan : (0361) 737914

Kuta K22 Izakaya Japanese restaurant specializing in yakitori and seafood, shochu and vodka cocktails Jl. Nakula No. 6, Legian : (0361) 7472324 Master Singapore Famous for the Singaporean ice cream!

Beachwalk Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta

Sanur Dusky Blue Fresh, health-conscious menu of tasty food.

Jl. Duyung No. 3, Sanur Soya Japanese restaurant with a casual vibe.

Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur

Adjani Bali Learn to prepare a variety of dishes, presentation and garnishing.

Kaliasem, Lovina, Singaraja : 081236232019 www.adjanibali.com Centrestage Music & Drama Music lessons, music studio, drama and musical theater, musical productions and DJ workshops, hip hop and V street dance.

Centrestage Jl. Dukuh Indah, Umalas, Kerobokan : 082144815165 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music.

Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures.

Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220 Nirvana Batik Course Learn the traditional art of batik making.

Jl. Gautama No. 10, Padangtegal, Ubud : (0361) 975415

Seminyak Corner House Stylish, cozy restaurant with great food and coffee.

Jl. Kayu Aya No. 10 A, Seminyak : (0361) 730276 Babar Café Serves Indonesian, Asian and Mediterranean foods.

Jl. Raya Basangkasa No. 17, Seminyak

Ubud Kismet Café Healthy, organic food.

Jl. Gautama No. 17, Ubud

Kelle Angkringan style restaurant with a variety of Indonesian foods.

Jl. Tukad Batanghari, Renon Paphio Coffee and Patisserie New hangout in Denpasar with excellent service.

Jl. Tukad Yeh Aya No. 112 A, Denpasar

Paragliding Courses

Activities Billiards

Jimbaran

Mango Beach Bar Play pool, relax with your friends over a beer and enjoy the beach view.

Jl. Pantai Kuta, Sanur

JBay Gourmet Ice Cream The best ice cream on the island!

Jl. Bantas Kangin No. 2, Jimbaran : (0361) 701650

Obrigado Billiard hall in downtown Denpasar. Play and enjoy Italian food.

Jl. Teuku Umar, Denpasar

Nasi Ayam Bu Oki For Balinese food lovers, eat here for great food at a good price.

Jimbaran : (0361) 8052059

WBC Billiard Open daily. Play pool with your friends, choose the table you like and get the stick you love.

Jl. Teuku Umar No. 39, Denpasar : (0361) 7420676

Bali Paragliders Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 12 A / 99 Blok A5, Kuta : (0361) 704 769 Email: info@baliparagliders.com www.baliparagliders.com Timbis Aero Club Paragliding operations, flight instructors and tandem pilots.

Timbis Beach, Ungasan : 0812 391 6918 (Ketut Manda)

Rafting

Bali Payung Rafting Adventure For more than a dozen years, Ayung River rafting has been hugely popular.

Jl. Raya Payangan, Gianyar : 0819 994 4188 payung_rafting@yahoo.com Mega Rafting Bali Journey through winding gorges, luscious jungles, magnificent terraced rice fields and breathtaking waterfalls for unparalleled fun on the river.

Jl. Hayam Wuruk No. 114 Tanjung Bungkak, Denpasar : (0361) 246724

Cycling Bali Star Cycling Young, dynamic, experienced friendly guides, great cycling tours. Routes off the beaten track for a totally different view on Bali then the average tourist has.

Jl. Imam Bonjol, Perum Cipta Selaras No. 30, Denpasar : (0361) 3172020 or 9228274

Shopping

Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A.11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Diving Absolute Scuba Dive paradise in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago and at the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands.

Jl. Pantai Silayukti, Padang Bai : +62 (0363) 42088 Email: info@absolutescubabali.com absolutescubabali.com

Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran - Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan - : (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu - : (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran : (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran : (0361) 4729081

Fitness Spa

Celebrity Fitness Lippo Sunset Plaza Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta www.celebrityfitness.com

Eastern Garden Martha Tilaar Spa Luxurious, holistic, and culture blending.

Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 5A, Seminyak : (0361) 731648

Where to go

2 Ryoshi House of Jazz

Live Music Every Monday, Wednesday, Friday Starts 9 p.m.

Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17 www.facebook.com/page/ryoshi-bali/

1 Jaga Jagat

Jan. 22 – Feb. 16 Art exhibition featuring the works of Antonius Kho and I Made Somadita Shankara Art Space Jl. Danau Toba No. 7, Sanur

Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA

Pulaki Gilimanuk

Mt. Batur

Mt. Sangiang

Mt. Musi

West Bali National Park

Besakih Mt. Agung

NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi

Ubud

Sangeh

3

AMLAPURA BANGLI KLUNGKUNG

TABANAN

4 GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan Canggu Seminyak Legian Kuta

DENPASAR

2 5

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu

Friday Masterclass

Every Friday Starts 5:30 p.m.

Expand your wine knowledge in a relaxed atmosphere and get insights and tasting notes in a quick and easy way from our wine expert. bridges Jl. Campuhan, Ubud : (0361) 970095 bridgesbali.com

1

Sanur

Benoa

Pura Batu Madan

Nusa Dua

Penida Island

3

4 5

Journey Through Asia Captured

by Jean-Paul Nacivet Until March 8 Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

Sama-Sama

Jan. 17 – 23 Starts 6 p.m.

Art exchange project between Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines.

Bentara Budaya Bali Jl. Prof. DR. Ida Bagus Mantra No. 88A, Gianyar

January 15, 2015

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er

”

Savor

A taste f o Indonesia “No matter where you are in Indonesia, if the pangs of hunger hit you, chances are that rescue is close at hand in the form of Padang food” Words Pia Vuolteenaho Photos Pia Vuolteenaho and I Wayan Juniarta

I

n a place as heavily crowded by tourists as southern Bali, it is easy to get by on pasta and burgers alone. True, the island is home to a seemingly endless array of world-class restaurants. But visiting Bali without sampling some of the local cuisine would be like visiting Heathrow airport and saying you’ve been to London.

Luckily, to get a taste of Indonesia, you don’t have to travel to remote villages or know a secret handshake — in southern Bali, local eateries, or warung, serving delicious food at a ridiculously affordable price happily coexist alongside swanky international establishments.

Babi guling (suckling pig), is, of course, a must try in Bali and you really don’t have to pay until it hurts to get a taste. This pork dish is something of an oddity in predominantly Muslim Indonesia, but in Bali, it’s hard to pass a city block without seeing a pig-shaped sign, the ubiquitous advertisement used by warung serving this delicacy throughout Bali. A serving of babi guling typically includes pork in pretty much every form imaginable — shredded, on a skewer, sausage, you name it — each one more delicious than the next.

No matter where you are in Indonesia, if the pangs of hunger hit you, chances are that rescue is close at hand in the form of masakan Padang, or Padang food. Writer Elizabeth Pisani likens Padang eateries to Indonesia’s very own McDonald’s — with outlets in pretty much every corner of the archipelago. Padang

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food originates from Sumatra and the warung are generally run by migrating Minangkabau people. Padang warung have their food laid out in a window display, with plates organized in towering pyramids. Masakan Padang is an accessible dining option even if you have little to no grasp of the Indonesian language — you simply point at the dishes that look most appetizing. You should at the very least try rendang, a slow-cooked beef stew dish voted as the “best food in the world” in a 2011 CNN poll.

Beside all the cars and motorbikes, the streets of Bali are made even more crowded by the army of tiny food carts pushed along by their vendors. You might consider forgiving them for slowing things down though, as they are in fact selling some of the cheapest and most delicious food imaginable. You are most likely to come by one selling either bakso or satay. You can often hear a bakso cart even before you see it as the vendor bangs a spoon on a porcelain bowl, sending an appetizing “kling kling kling” sound ringing throughout the neighborhood. Bakso is an Indonesian meat ball, served with broth, noodles and kerupuk — a crunchy cracker, topped off with a generous dose of condiments. As for satay carts, what they are selling are skewers of what is most often either chicken, goat or, occasionally, pork. Satay is served with a good dollop of delicious peanut sauce and often alongside lontong, compressed rice, cut up into bite-sized chunks.

Whatever your take on Indonesian cuisine,

one thing is for sure — it’s bound to satisfy your sweet cravings. When in doubt, add sugar or condensed milk seems to be the credo here. As the day turns into night, the carts advertising martabak telur and terang bulan roll out. Martabak telur is basically an Indonesian omelet, while terang bulan refers to a sweet variation of the same dish, a sort of Indonesian pancake. This pan-fried and condensed milk-coated delicacy is sprinkled with chocolate sprinkles, chopped nuts — or a generous layer of grated cheese. Though the Indonesian penchant for adding cheese to desserts might initially seem bewildering to Western taste buds, in martabak this

combination works quite well — the taste actually resembles cheesecake. And if by some miracle after finishing your martabak terang bulan you should find yourself craving more sugar, there’s always soda gembira. This acidpink drink combines soda water, syrup and of course, condensed milk, and is bound to give you a dizzying sugar rush.

What’s featured here is just a teeny-tiny tip of the iceberg that is Indonesian cuisine. So when in Bali, go ahead — enjoy all the fabulous global cuisine available at your fingertips, but don’t forget to sample some of the local dishes too. For that’s the beauty of Bali. Here, you can have your cake and eat martabak too.