Vol. 1/january 29-February 4, 2015
Good Morning
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
Bayung Gede preserves old traditions
A honey farmer in Tenganan
from THE editor
Dengue As the rainy season enters its peak in the coming weeks, torrential rain and mini floods are not the only things residents of this island must worry about. Dengue fever outbreaks are regular, annual visitors to Bali’s densely populated regions — Denpasar, Badung, Buleleng and Gianyar, which host some of the island’s famed tourist resorts and attractions. In previous years, this menacing “guest” picked the peak of the rainy season as its preferred time to make an appearance. In January-April 2014, nearly 3,500 cases were reported, an increase from more than 2,200 during a similar period in 2013, making the island’s incidence rate far higher than that of the nation. Fatalities are low compared to total recorded cases, but that is clearly not a reason to let down our guard. So make sure to clean your house and office and dry up any puddles and areas with still water, the favorite breeding ground for the dengue vector, and apply mosquito repellent before you travel outdoors!
---The Editor
Contents
03
04
‘Tajen’
05
A celebration of street arts
06
Bayung Gede
07 08 10 11 12 16
Spectacular dolphin watching
preserves old traditions at Lovina Beach
Good Morning Ubud! An encounter with Lebih Beach’s fishermen Recreation and education on Turtle Island A honey farmer in Tenganan Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
Holy water spring
at Tirta Empul Temple
Cover Photo: Rio Helmi
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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Fikri Zaki Muhammadi, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Intan Indahsari, Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi
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images
‘Tajen’ “The bloody game that Balinese men love” Words and Photos Agung Parameswara
I
n Bali, bloody cockfights remain popular. They are called Tajen, derived from the word taji, which is the slender, wickedly sharp steel blade affixed to the rooster’s leg prior to the violent duel. One well-placed stab with a taji is sufficient to end the fight. Often, the battle results in both participants suffering fatal wounds. It is not uncommon for the handlers to use taji coated with poison, a fact that many people claim is the reason why food prepared with the meat of roosters killed in tajen is a lot tastier. Tajen in contemporary Bali is a lucrative gambling “business”, often used by traditional communities to raise funds to renovate public facilities and, sometimes, temples.
Gambling is illegal across Indonesia, but security authorities in Bali generally turn a blind eye to the game, as long as the organizer does not cross the line. Holding tajen events for seven straight days is definitely crossing the line. A three-day event is acceptable. Tajen also has a sacred form, known as Tabuh Rah, which literally means “pouring blood”. These are generally held prior to major temple festivals to appease the demonic spirits. Once every six months, Aci Keburan, a large semi-religious tajen event, is held for 35 straight days at Hyang Api temple in Klusa, Gianyar. The villagers believe that the event is necessary to ward off pests and plague.
January 29, 2015
3
Sight
L
ocated in the village of Manukaya in Ginayar, this temple complex has a holy mountain spring that is believed to be able to cleanse the body and soul of bad influences. Inside the temple’s courtyard, referred to as the jaba tengah in Balinese, there is a rectangular pool with 13 water spouts where people conduct their purification bathing. On important days for Balinese Hindus, including Siwaratri, Saraswati, full moon, new moon and on major religious occasions, thousands of devotees flock here to undertake the purification ritual called melukat. Many tourists are also tempted to try out the ritual rather than just watch. On those days when the pool is full and devotees wait in line for their chance to purify, it is difficult to reach the spouts that line the pool from west to east. This was exactly what happened during the recent celebration of Siwaratri. Even the pouring rain failed to deter people’s from doing the ritual bathing. Young and old, adults and children, all waited patiently to reach the holy water source. The crowds were an attraction for local and foreign tourists, who captured this moment, unique in Indonesia to Bali, with their cameras. Some of them decided not to miss the opportunity and took part in the melukat. Built around 960 AD, the temple is a heritage site from an old Balinese kingdom. Tirta Empul was actually the name of the water source located within the temple, where all the water pouring from the spouts came from, said the temple’s pemangku (caretaker) Dewa Aji Mangku Wenten. It is open to everyone, regardless of faith, but visitors should dress respectfully, as in any holy place. Visitors wanting to experience the melukat ritual can ask the temple authorities for details and advice. Balinese Hindus also worship here without undergoing purification bathing. Like all Balinese temples, the temple complex is divided into three parts: the front (jaba pura), the center (jaba tengah) and the inner courtyard (jeroan). In the jeroan is a building called the Pelinggih Tepas Sana, which is believed to be the place
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January 29, 2015
Holy water spring
at Tirta Empul Temple “This holy water was used to cure the troops and bring them back to life.” WORDS AND PHOTOS EKA JUNI ARTAWAN
where Ida Bhatara Indra resides. In Balinese mythology, it is said that the curative and purifying spring water resulted from a battle between a ruler named Mayadenawa and Lord Indra. Mayadenawa is depicted as a person who acted arbitrarily and is said to have forbidden people from praying and conducting rituals. This eventually angered the gods. Led by
Indra, the gods attacked Mayadenawa. The king fled Indra’s troops until he arrived in the north part of Tampaksiring village. With his magical powers, Mayadenawa created a poisonous spring, from which Indra’s exhausted troops drank and started to die. As Indra noticed the fate of his troops, he thrust his spear into the ground and a spring spurted out. This holy water was used to cure the troops and
bring them back to life. From this escapade, the holy spring became known as Tirta Empul. Situated in a hilly area with picturesque views, a tour of Tirta Empul is rewarding. While in the area, another nearby and prominent site to visit is located on top of the hill overlooking the temple, the presidential palace Tampaksiring, which was built during the reign of the nation’s first president, Sukarno.
Street Art
A celebration
of street arts
“The artists voiced their concerns over social issues through murals”
WORDS AND PHOTOS LUH DE SURIYANI
W
ild Drawing, also known as WD, is a Balinese street artist who lives in Greece. Leaving his hometown years ago, he wandered around overseas before finally settling in Athens. His mural works have decorated numerous public spaces in Europe. Loaded with criticism of social problems, his art has resulted in him becoming one of the world’s most recognized street artists in the past few years. Since November last year, he has returned home and been roaming around, expressing his ideas on the walls of Denpasar and Gianyar, expressing his concern over the issues of globalization, tourism, social injustice and threats to the environment. His first work since his homecoming was a mural on the wall of a lodging in the midst of rice fields in Ubud. It was a picture of a Balinese girl peeking out from behind a curtain with a Balinese prada motif and a line of words reading: “Stop exploiting our land”. Expressing his support of the rejection of the much-criticized reclamation project in Benoa Bay, he created a mural of hand-shaped sea waves warding off an excavator. On the same issue, he also painted Soul Rebel during the concert Bali Tolak Reklamasi (Bali Against Reclamation) in Padanggalak. While visiting his home land, WD is also undertaking some solo projects on the island. A recent street art event titled “Beat Spray Laugh” is one of these and also featured The Pojoks, a community of street artists who WD has been close to since they were college students in Denpasar. Since 2005, The Pojoks community has been celebrating the creation of art in public spaces, including through the “Bali yang Binal” event, which has now taken place five times. The most recent one was last year, themed “95% for tourism, 5% for art”, which criticized a Bali that glorifies tourism more than it appreciates art. Held in Taman Baca Kesiman in Denpasar last week, the collaboration between WD and The Pojoks this time is a celebration of street art creativity, with musical performances by Tilem, Deepsea Explorers, as well as a jamming session with Nostress, Dadang Navicula and Dialog Dini Hari. Dozens of visitors enjoyed the art of WD and The Pojoks, which had been painted on three large wooden boards set up in the park. WD’s largest painting is titled Money Kills and depicts a pig-headed man wearing a suit pointing money at another man, a symbol of power and capitalism. Through their murals, WD and The Pojoks expect to bring art into the public sphere, while responding to crucial issues in society. They also would like to see how people respond and hope for the appreciation of street art as a social movement. “Street art is not vandalism. It has its own strength,” said WD, who hoped that street art could be given more space in the island’s cities.
January 29, 2015
5
Soul
BayungGede
preserves-old traditions Words and Photos Bram Setiawan
“The ritual of hanging the umbilical cords must be conducted in the morning by male family members of the newborn babies, usually the fathers”
O
ld villages in Bali will always serve as living social and cultural laboratories for their distinguished and authentic traditions that have long fascinated tourists as well as academics. One village with exceptionally maintained traditions is Bayunggede in Kintamani subdistrict, Bangli regency. The village became an important subject for renowned American anthropologist Margareth Mead, who, along with her anthropologist husband Gregory Bateson, conducted meticulous research on Balinese people’s patterns of life, rites, and parenting and kinship systems. Located on a plot of land around 900 meters above sea level, some 55 kilometers northeast of Denpasar and 35 km from Bangli, the village is blessed with cool weather. The name of the village is derived from the words bayung or bayu, meaning “inner power’ “nd gede, meaning “big”. One of the traditions is hanging the umbilical cords of newborn babies in Setra Ari-Ari, which is a cemetery dedicated to the
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cords. Based on the community’s beliefs, the umbilical cords must be hung on a bukak tree. The bukak tree’s wood is capable of absorbing the odor of the decaying cords. Before being hung on the trees, the umbilical cords must be cleaned thoroughly and later wrapped in a coconut shell. The strap used to hang the cords must be made of plaited bamboo, known locally as salangtabu. The ritual of hanging the umbilical cords must be conducted in the morning by male family members of the newborn babies, usually the fathers. Carrying the umbilical cords to Setra Ari-Ari has always been a delicate job, as the carriers are required to focus completely on taking the cords to the cemetery. Based on local beliefs, an umbilical cord must be kept and maintained properly as it will become the savior and the protector of the baby. Local residents are well aware of the tradition. “If they see somebody carrying out the ritual of taking the umbilical cord to the cemetery, no one in the village would dare to shout at him or to call his name,” Tabeng said. This is just one of many interesting traditions upheld by the residents of Bayunggede village. Another tradition is a strict practice of monogamy. “Men would never have the nerve to marry more than one woman. There are no polygamous practices in the village; violators would face stern social punishments and customary sanctions.”
The chief of Bayung Gede customary village, 68-year-old Jero Kebayan Tabeng, said that local residents of Bayunggede village were believed to be the direct descendants of King Bangli’s troops. “We are renowned as being courageous and hard-working people. Our ancestors were always on the alert and were ready when the king summoned them to the battlefield,” the chief village said. There are several traditions in the village that have been preserved for hundreds of years. Failing to keep the traditions alive would lead to unfavorable consequences for the violators, their families and society. If a member of the village violates the tradition of monogamy, he has to undergo a purification ceremony called mesayut to cleanse and eliminate negative forces from his body and soul. If he insisted on continuing the practice of polygamy, he and his family would be exiled to
the outskirts of the village. “Redemption for his wrongdoings would involve carrying out the mesayut ritual and divorcing one of his wives,” the chief village said. The majority of Bayunggede’s residents work as farmers on nearby plantations. When visiting Bayung village in the morning, you may not see many people around. Bayunggede is physically similar to the neighboring village of Penglipuran, in terms of its layout and architecture as well as its landscape, all of which adopt traditional Balinese spatial concepts. The village’s traditions reflect the wisdom of the life and culture of Balinese people, which are in danger of disappearing because of the influx of modernity. Preserving Balinese village traditions means protecting the island’s precious cultural heritage.
Sight
Spectacular dolphin watching
at Lovina Beach “as the sun rose higher, a pod of adult and baby dolphins swirled around the boat and twirled in the air several times to our excitement”
WORDS AND PHOTOS AGUNG PARAMESWARA
I
t was a rare sunny morning with a clear blue sky in the rainy month of January when we decided to drive to Lovina Beach, west of Singaraja, the capital of Buleleng regency in north Bali. Our main purpose was to watch the beach’s dolphins off the coast of Lovina, the name for which was derived from the words “Love Indonesia”. Developed as a private resort by the Buleleng royal family and a famous author, I Gusti Panji Tisna, in the late in 50s and early in 60s, Lovina has grown into one of the favorite tourist spots
in north Bali. While most tourist activities remain very slow compared to places in the south of Bali, Lovina has a special attraction — dolphin watching. A large number of domestic and foreign tourists patiently waited for their turn for the traditional jukung boats that would take them out to sea. There were 50 jukung ready to transport these enthusiastic dolphin watchers. Each boat can take four passengers, charging Rp 90,000 (US$7.2) per person. Watching dolphins is for early risers; the tour
usually starts before 6 a.m. and ends by 8 a.m. While some visitors looked nervous as they arrived late for the dolphin tour, we were excited and impatient to see any dolphins popping their heads out of the water. Time flew by fast and we had still seen no dolphins. But as the sun rose higher, a pod of adult and baby dolphins swirled around the boat and twirled in the air several times to our excitement. We were amazed to see so many dolphins and felt lucky to watch these beautiful creatures in their own habitat. It is quite a long and tiring trip from Denpasar
or Kuta in the south to get to Lovina Beach, a drive of about four hours. Spending a night or two there would be a wise decision before embarking on the early morning dolphin adventure. Accommodation facilities vary widely, ranging from unrated hotels to luxury villas. For us, the 120-kilometer journey from Denpasar to Lovina Beach to enjoy the beauty of the beach and to watch hundreds of dolphins swimming in the sea was indeed worthwhile.
January 29, 2015
7
Cover Story
“I like going out alone, but when these moments happen, I never feel lonely. although you can find stretches of quiet, quasi-open road on Bali, in fact, it is nearly always populated� Words and Photos Rio Helmi
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January 29, 2015
B
eyond my simple adolescent love of motorbikes, I have also always loved the mix of solitude and complete immersion in the environment that is so particular to riding. Solitary long-distance touring becomes almost meditative – and, of course, mistakes are far more dangerous on two wheels than they are when you lurch about in a box on four wheels! This heightened awareness also makes me more sharply appreciative of the places I am traveling through. Even shorter trips in the relative vicinity of Ubud can be rewarding. One moment you are riding through the cool damp in the dip of a river ravine, the next you come up and burst into the glorious warm sunshine pouring through forest foliage. You can be stuck in the sticky heat and fumes of downtown traffic in the morning, then feel the a cooling breeze right off the rice fields while tall coconut palms stand silhouetted against monsoon skies. I have lived in Ubud for nearly all of the last 43 years and have watched it change at breakneck speed. It’s still something of a miracle to me that there is some of the magic left, yet I can feel it slipping through our fingers as this one-time-village-now-smalltown gets more and more urbanized. A couple of years ago, Catriona Mitchell and I decided to launch a new website, ubudnowandthen.com, addressing the whole issue of change here within the context of “nature, nurture, art and culture”. Last year, for some naïve (and possibly masochistic) reason, I also decided to embark on a mission to post a daily photo of the day on our eponymous Facebook page, getting out on the bike to see what was going on around greater Ubud. As Ubud Now and Then is a bit of a cosmopolitan small town newspaper, I decided that the images should not only be pretty, tourism-promoting pictures but something of a record, good or bad, of what is in Ubud. As my favorite time of day on this island is early in the morning, I decided to call the series “Good Morning Ubud”. Evidently not all the pictures are taken that early (once in a while, we even run a dusk shot) but the influence of light in this part of the world is huge. I can ride exactly the same route on two consecutive days and experience completely
d i f f e r e n t landscapes just because the light is so different on each day, particularly during the rainy season. There’s also the race against the change that so-called progress brings. Last week, I rode on a road that I hadn’t been on for six months. The last time I was on it, it was still barely a gravel road. This time it was near flawlessly paved. More and more new roads keep popping up around Ubud: a double-edged sword that brings the good and the bad with it. It provides access for people to work in town and tske their produce to the market, but it also makes more rice fields and ravines accessible to rapacious developers. Usually, I take off around 5:30 a.m. I take a look at the sky and strike out in the direction that looks most promising. Sometimes I just take a punt. Mostly, I never really know beforehand what I am going to shoot, I leave it
to serendipity: a combination of location, light, whatever is transiting through, and my own inner sense of “being there”. When it all comes together, it’s a visual haiku. I like going out alone, but when these moments happen, I never feel lonely. Though you can find stretches of quiet, quasi-open road on Bali, in fact, it is nearly always populated. The small rounds around Ubud are always full of surprises and often beauty to boot; in urban areas it seems the entire society lives on the road. If you aren’t barging through in a fortified four-wheel drive, you can actually make yourself part of it, and sometimes it just snatches your breath away. And when there are scenes of “ugliness”, it becomes more marked by contrast. Just like every other culture, Balinese contemporary culture has its downsides as well as upsides — a fact that sometimes escapes some of our expat viewers. Pictures such as that of a local dog breeder with his rottweilers and pit bulls, or of cockfighting, or of illegal garbage dumps, set off all kinds of outrage. But coming back to the people, that’s always the best part. I love stopping and chatting with farmers, ladies selling spicy porridge by the roadside, and the rest of the gamut of the fellowship of the road. I inevitably learn something new: a new Balinese word, a new concept, a different perspective. Sometimes, a
simple reminder of classic Balinese traditions. A Brahmin pedanda (priest) with a twinkle in his eye collecting champaka flowers tells me that they are the symbol of joy and happiness: “You don’t see unhappy people enjoying flowers do you?” A farmer hoeing plastic rubbish out of his rice fields from a collapsed irrigation ditch expresses his quiet exasperation but smiles nonetheless. A total stranger invites me to come out of a monsoon downpour and into his house and gives me a hot cup of coffee, and a great conversation ensues. An old grandmother (to her son’s mortification) looks at my pannier and gearladen bike, and asks in a puzzled tone: “What are you selling?” (the best laugh I had all week!). There are many more stories I could tell of my morning chats with the people I meet on the road. In truth, they are a great part of my attachment to Ubud. I’m a dinosaur who predates the current Ubud of yoga, raw food, colonics and cosmic workshops. Nor do I wear feathers in my hair (nor would I if I had enough hair) or strappy leather vests on my naked torso (nor would I even if I was buff). However, we are all here together, and it’s my hope that these pictures — infused with the freshness of Ubud’s mornings and the surprises that pop up as you come around the corner — help us all understand what’s here a bit better.
January 29, 2015
9
Savor
An encounter with Lebih Beach’s fishermen “Some stalls serve delicious sate lilit (minced prawn or snapper mixed with chili, lemon grass, birds-eye chili, shrimp paste and other spices) wrapped around a stalk of lemon grass and grilled over charcoal” Words and photos Luh De Suriyani
Forget Jimbaran Beach with its famed seafood cafés and vibrant fishing village, head for Pantai Lebih, a beach around 20 kilometers from Denpasar where you can find more varied culinary options cooked in the traditional way. Still unknown to many vacationers, the Lebih Beach has rapidly become a new haven for surfers thanks to its stunningly high waves. Both local and international surfers are flocking here for the challenge and to test their surfing skills. With its rough seas, strong current and high waves, it is quite dangerous to swim and abrasion has eaten up much of the shoreline, but there are other attractions — food in particular. The local fishermen are experts at braving the rough seas to catch fish and other seafood, such as shrimps, crabs and lobsters if they are lucky enough. One old fisherman busy collecting his catch commented, “We [traditional fishermen] have to compete with the big fishing vessels now with all their modern equipment. They have left us with miniscule catches.” In the past, the catches being brought in by local fishermen were enough to feed their families and generate some extra income. “Now, many of us prefer not to go to sea as there is little to catch and the price of fuel keeps increasing.” Still, some fishermen go out and bring back their hauls in ice containers to supply to the 20 or so food stalls offering seafood on the beach, making this a great way to indulge in a super fresh meal. There is a range of delicacies on offer. Some stalls serve delicious sate lilit (minced prawn
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or snapper mixed with chili, lemon grass, birds-eye chili, shrimp paste and other spices) wrapped around a stalk of lemon grass and grilled over charcoal. Pepes ikan (steamed fish stuffed with Asian bay leaves, chili and lots of other spices, cooked wrapped in banana leaves) is another favorite dish. On rainy days, a bowl of hot, spicy fish soup — made mainly with fish heads, could warm you and stave off the chills of the rainy season. Another now-hard-to-find specialty is nasi sela — a traditional mix of rice with sweet potatoes, which goes well with fried or grilled fish served with water spinach and sambal (chili condiment). As an international tourist site, Lebih Beach still has a long way to go. Like other traditional fishing villages, it lacks tourist and public facilities. However, the Gianyar regional administration is now working to promote the beach as a tourist destination and has made some minor improvements to prevent the abrasion from eroding any more of the coastline. For local fishermen, however, the golden days are over. But they continue to hope that the changing tides will bring their time back; every afternoon, they clean their traditional vessels and wait for good weather to head out to sea. Younger village residents are opting for more modern careers, including as surfers. It is not unusual to see the local teenagers paddling their surfboards out to ride the big waves with dreams of being discovered and starting a new life, leaving the age-old family fishing tradition far behind them.
Sight
“The conservation site provides a livelihood and job opportunities for local fishermen”
Recreation and education WORDS AND PHOTOS EKA JUNI ARTAWAN
W
ater sports can be both stimulating and rejuvenating and Tanjung Benoa, in the south of Bali, is a haven for underwater and water sports lovers, offering banana boats, adrenaline-filled parasailing, water and jet skiing, as well as snorkeling and diving. For something a little different, though, you can make the short trip to Pulau Penyu, or Turtle Island, home to Bali’s native green sea turtles. Motor boats are available for charter moored along coast at Tanjung Benoa with a capacity of two to eight people. Ida Bagus Redana, a tour guide, eloquently talked about the fun of a Turtle Island trip. “I have prepared a plastic bag of bread to tempt the fish to the surface during our ride there,” he said. “The fish here are fond of everything. They eat slices of bread, stir-fried
on
Turtle Island
vegetables, lots of things,” smiled Redana. While he scattered slices of bread into the water, hundreds of colorful fish and other marine creatures swarmed in for a taste. “Welcome to Taman Laut marine park. This is the real habitat of Bali’s abundant marine resources.” Luckily, we had taken a glass-bottomed boat, which allowed us to see the dramatic underwater scenery of coral reef and colorful aquarium fish — a real natural attraction. A trip from Tanjung Benoa to Turtle Island takes around 20 minutes, if the weather is good. Some passengers on large cruisers that moor close to Turtle Island also enjoy spending a few hours on the island. Tanjung Benoa is strategically located between Nusa Dua and Kuta and its bay is home to the last fringe of mangrove forest in southern Bali. Many of its trees were cut down to make way for the Bali Mandara toll road. Its strategic location for the tourist industry has prompted many investors to add their stamp of development to this tiny area. Arriving at Turtle Island, visitors pay an entrance fee of Rp 20,000 (US$1.60) for foreigners and Rp 10,000 for locals. The revenue is used for turtle conservation and environmental preservation on the island. The dedicated work of local people under the Moon Cot Sari Turtle Conservation Group has created the recreational and education facility, which is home to 122 turtles, 37 of which have been tagged. There are three species of turtle on the island, the olive ridley sea turtle, green sea turtle and the hawksbill sea turtle. The conservation group also cares for eagles, bats and reptiles, such as iguanas and snakes. The 1-hectare conservation site is perfect for
educational activities, especially for children. “The land belongs to the Forestry and Maritime Affairs office and we work closely with the Bali Conservation Agency [KSD], which controls and supervises the conservation activities here,” said I Ketut Roka, coordinator of the turtle conservation group, who has worked for 12 years as a conservationist. “Animals have hearts and souls. We must treat them with care, otherwise they will die quickly,” said Roka, touching a baby turtle tenderly. The conservation site provides a livelihood and job opportunities for local fishermen. “We have three turtle conservation groups, all the members are local villagers.” Equipped with toilets, food and drink stalls, small restaurants, souvenir shops and a fish spa, Turtle Island is an attractive and educational conservation site and tourism spot. January 29, 2015
11
Soul
“Adnyana and the people of Tenganan strongly uphold the traditions of sustainable farming, including bee-keeping” WORDS AND PHOTOS LUH DE SURIYANI
D
urpa Adnyana is a farmer living in the middle of the forest in Tenganan, an old indigenous Balinese village in Karangasem,
east Bali. Adnyana and his family are renowned honey producers and generous teachers to those who want to learn the honey-producing process. Every day, people come to his humble hut on the edge of Tenganan village to learn. Tenganan Pengringsingan village is believed to be one of the oldest villages on the island of Bali and is home to a Bali Aga (indigenous Balinese) population. The people of Tenganan, whose ancestors were residents of pre-Majapahit and Javanese Hindu kingdoms on the island, still retain and practice strict customary laws, holding the titles to their protected lands and forests in an effort to preserve the village’s ecological state. The people of Tenganan believe that the god Indra granted the lands and customary laws to them. No one is allowed to cut trees down without permission from the village head. Similarly, animals must be kept properly and hunting is strictly forbidden. Despite their semi-closed village and society, Tenganan is beautiful and tranquil with an extraordinary village layout and landscape. Adnyana and his family are considered
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“outsiders”, living outside the exclusive innermost Tenganan community. They live adjacent to the village, in the lush forest, which is home to a myriad of vegetation native to the village. It is quite easy to find Adnyana’s humble home, only 3 meters from the village’s main road. Upon arrival, guests are treated to hot tea mixed with honey. “I never mean to exploit the forest by massproducing honey. If we have six honeycomb frames, we can only extract honey from two of them,” said Adnyana, pointing at six bee hives placed around his home. Adnyana and the people of Tenganan strongly uphold the traditions of sustainable farming, including bee-keeping. “The highly nutritious honey has extraordinary health benefits for human beings. We should not be too greedy in extracting the honey and exploiting the bees, it could destroy all the flower nectar,” he said wisely. He explained there were two types of bees: the Mangoe bees, which produced sweet honey, and the smaller Kele bees, which produced sour, bitter honey mostly used for medication. Adnyana harvests the Mangoe bee honey every two months and the Kele been honey
every six months. He extracts 60 honeycomb frames every harvest, producing only 1 liter of honey. To make additional income, he sells the extracted honeycombs for medicine and food. Adnyana is always willing to share his honey-making secrets with his guests, many of whom are foreign tourists. “I received boxes of business cards from one of my customers. He created them and sent
them to me here in the forest,” said Adnyana, laughing. His father, Komang Kari, supports the family by producing handicrafts such as tissue boxes, vases and plates made of lontar palm roots, locally called ate. Adnyana and his father are happy to lead their simple lives. “Nature has given us so much. In return, we have to maintain and preserve it for the future.”
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Get your website on Google’s first page for more customers. Call/SMS 0811 380 151
Relaxing Thai massage for women. Contact: 0822 3760 3026
Home made jewelry. Silver and gold. Good price with high quality product. Call 081 7477 9129
Relaxing yoga, private classes. For more info, please call 0822 3760 302
Indonesian freelance cook. Text Elok 0813 902 36628 Indonesian lessons for foreigners provided at your home / office, native teacher. Sms/call: Ms. Asima 0821 468 50175 / email gemilangcourse@gmail.co, www. balipages.biz.learn.speak.indonesian.
Saxophone or guitar lessons at any level. SMS 0813 398 07682 Doug.
Swimming, private courses. For more information please call 0818 054 19300
Wood & composite decking specialist & carpenter. Email : woodworking.bali@yahoo.co.id 081999857305
Soap-making class, 4 hours, Rp 1 mill. Call 0813 287 16169, kesambibali@gmail.com
Web design, SEO, and video editing service. Portfolio : www.creativewebdesign.com Contact : 0819 9938 5206
www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertising photography.
Island Buzz New NEO hotel opens in Legian
The Shanti Foundation celebrates second year
The new NEO Hotels concept opens the doors to a world of wellbeing with a stylish and contemporary design befitting the latest trends in hotel design. With uncluttered spaces, NEO Hotels offer relaxation and tranquility within chic yet reasonably priced newbuild hotels and resorts. New on the island is Hotel NEO+ Kuta Legian, with room size and facilities in tune with international three-star standard. The new hotel has a perfect location for lovers of Kuta’s nightlife and shopping being just down the road from Ground Zero and the popular Sky Garden Club on Jl. Raya Legian, yet tugged away on a peaceful side street locally referred to as Jl. Troppozone. With a contemporary, youthful design, a courtyard pool and expert service from a handson dynamic team, the hotel is proficient and fun, promising stylish but reasonably priced accommodation for the twenty-first century traveler. The 117 funky, stylish and smoke-free rooms are outfitted with top of the line linens, flat-screen satellite TVs, air-conditioning, mini-bars, safes and en-suite bathrooms with large standing showers. Wi-Fi access is fast, reliable and, as in all NEOs, free and available throughout the entire hotel. Two well-equipped meeting rooms, a café specializing in homemade noodle dishes and a spa with well-trained therapists makes the NEO+ one of Bali’s most complete boutique budget hotels. The outdoor swimming pool, surrounded by a spacious sun terrace with plenty of loungers and a poolside snack bar serving much needed refreshments, finish off the tropical hotel with a cool island vibe. “With NEO and NEO+ Hotels focusing on fashion conscious Millennials, there could not be a better location for our fourth NEO in Bali and the first slightly more upscale NEO+ than the very heart of Legian,” said Norbert Vas, Archipelago International’s VP of sales and marketing. Customers have hailed NEO Hotels as a great fit for savvy young travelers and Generation Y parents. See NeoHotels.com for more details.
The Shanti Foundation was formed to promote its “Loving, Giving and Sharing” philosophy. To commemorate its second year, last December it hosted 70 children from six schools in remote villages in east Bali for a day of games, food and activities at Shanti Residences in Nusa Dua together with the children of employees of The Shanti Collection and L Hotels & Resorts. Shanti Foundation this year has also started supporting two students with scholarships, both studying for a three-year diploma, one in hotel management and one in F&B product management. Last year, the foundation organized a three-day exhibition showcasing 30 paintings and 10 sculptures by students of Sukawati Art School with an official opening ceremony highlighted by a traditional dance performance by children from Taman Permata Orphanage. In 2014, the foundation also supported a breast cancer screening program organized by Bali Pink Ribbon, donating 200 snack boxes to Balinese women who turned up for the free screening; donated accommodation and culinary prizes to the Telethon Adventurer’s Childhood Cancer Fundraising cocktail party entitled “Team China 2014” at The Brown Fox in Western Australia; and sponsored prizes for Bali’s Green School conservation and sustainability event with special guest speaker Dr Jane Goodall, UN Messenger of Peace. Moving forward, the Shanti Foundation will continue to give out scholarships to strengthen learning and education, the pillars of success for future leadership in Indonesia; further collaborations will take place partnering with local art galleries to showcase budding, local artists; and there will be opportunities to integrate its people and talent with different fraternities in society to benefit less-fortunate youths and to raise funds for the Shanti Foundation.
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Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com
Metis Friday Aperochic Every Friday Nothing beats the true indulgence at the new Metis Lounge with its delicate tapas and cocktails! Jl. Petitenget No. 6, Kerobokan Mr. Scruff in Bali Jan. 31 Starts 9 p.m. Potato Head Beach Club Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak Spanish Tapas Buffet Jan. 29 Starts 8 p.m. Enjoy all you can eat Spanish tapas. Café Canggu Jl. Pantai Berawa, Canggu Teacher Training Workshop Feb. 21 Jl. Raya Sesetan No. 190, Denpasar : (0361) 225243 Email: wsumiasih@ialf.edu
Events
Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality. Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888
Bali Reggae Star Festival Feb. 6 From 3 – 11 p.m. Padang Galak Beach, Denpasar
Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604
Coworking Unconference Asia (CUASIA) 2015 Jan. 30 Starts 9 a.m. Join the prime movers of the Asian coworking/innovation scene to share and discuss the changing face of work in Asia. Hubud Jl. Monkey Forest No. 88, Ubud
When The Music Tells You A Story – Miyoshi Masato Duo Jan. 31 Starts 7:30 p.m. An ethnic fusion of meditation, dance and joy for life. BetelNut Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud
Calendar of Events
Fantuzzi – A Global Troubador Jan. 31 Starts 8 p.m. A highly energized charismatic world-class music star to get you moving! Jazz Café Jl. Sukma No. 2, Ubud Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m. Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 The Lights of Faith - Theater show From Monday to Saturday Starts 8 p.m. A cultural theater show to feel the magic of Bali in every story! Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta : (0361) 762750 or Robert 0878 617997 Limbo Hip – Where The Night Starts Every Saturday Starts 8 p.m. Get together with friends, mingle and get down to our DJ’s music. La Finca Jl. Subak Sari No. 77, Batu Belig, Kerobokan Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297
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Food & Drinks Canggu Berawa Beach Tavern Great tavern to enjoy sunset with cold beer, barbeque, hot dogs, and sport shows. Jl. Perancak, Berawa, Canggu Echo Beach House Restaurant Every sunset, legendary barbecue with fresh seafood, prawns and lobsters, imported steaks, mouthwatering ribs and fresh, organic salads. Jl. Pura Batu Mejan, Canggu : (0361) 7474604
denpasar
Furama Café Good seafood at an affordable price and just the right sized portion. Jl. Pantai Kedonganan, Jimbaran : (0361) 7470805
Kerobokan
Kobetei A simple Japanese stall that serves good food, cheap for lunch and dinner. Jl. Petitenget No. 17E, Kerobokan : (0361) 8025320 Café Del Mar Delicious food and good value for money! Jl. Sahadewa, Kerobokan : (0361) 7896700
Kuta
Bali Colada Bali Colada offers a menu of customers’ favorites. Kuta Square C 15, Kuta : (0361) 753130 Gloria Jean’s A must-visit coffee shop in Bali Jl. Tegal Wangi, Kuta : (0361) 766356 WOWCOW This Australian brand frozen yogurt adds more choices for yogurt lovers. Beachwalk, 2nd Floor Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta
Sanur
Casablanca A popular bar with food in Sanur. Enjoy dinner in a romantic and colorful setting. Jl. Danau Tamblingan No. 120, Sanur : 0813 863 080 Warung Mak Beng Traditional Balinese fish dishes. Jl. Hang tuah No. 45, Sanur
Seminyak
Lola A delightful urban chic restaurant with beautiful presentation of many classic Indonesian foods. L Boutique Hotel Jl. Petitenget No. 8, Seminyak Sambal Shrimp Offers you seafood and international selection. Jl. Kayu Aya No. 6, 2nd Floor, Seminyak : (0361) 738389
Ubud
Abe Do Food prepared after you order it. The owner uses 100% organic products from local farmers. Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 43, Kutuh, Ubud :0813 380 21855 Kagemusha Light and simple Japanese food reminds you of real Japanese home cooking. Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud : (0361) 973134
Kopi Bali A tiny, old school coffee shop selling Bali’s original Butterfly Globe coffee, founded in 1935. Jl. Gajah Mada No. 80, Denpasar Sushi Kawe Small Japanese food stall with very affordable prices. Jl. Pulau Kawe, Denpasar
Jimbaran Chiringuito El Kabron Spanish Restaurant & Cliff Club Jl. Pantai Cemongkak, Pecatu : (0361) 7803416 www.chiringuitoelkabron.com
Activities Billiards
WBC Billiard Open daily. Play pool with your friends, choose the table you like and get the stick you love. Jl. Teuku Umar No. 39, Denpasar : (0361) 7420676
Courses Adjani Bali Learn to prepare a variety of dishes, presentation and garnishing. Kaliasem, Lovina, Singaraja : 081236232019 www.adjanibali.com Centrestage Music & Drama Music lessons, music studio, drama and musical theater, musical productions and DJ workshops, hip hop and V street dance. Centrestage Jl. Dukuh Indah, Umalas, Kerobokan : 082144815165 Gamelan Course – Mekar Bhuana Learn more about Balinese culture and music. Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar : (0361) 464 201 Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures. Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud : (0361) 7451413 or 976220 Nirvana Batik Course Learn the traditional art of batik making. Jl. Gautama No. 10, Padangtegal, Ubud : (0361) 975415
Cycling Bali Star Cycling Young, dynamic, experienced friendly guides, great cycling tours. Routes off the beaten track for a totally different view on Bali then the average tourist has. Jl. Imam Bonjol, Perum Cipta Selaras No. 30, Denpasar : (0361) 3172020 or 9228274
Bali Paragliders Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 12 A / 99 Blok A5, Kuta : (0361) 704 769 Email: info@baliparagliders.com www.baliparagliders.com Timbis Aero Club Paragliding operations, flight instructors and tandem pilots. Timbis Beach, Ungasan : 0812 391 6918 (Ketut Manda)
Rafting
Bali Payung Rafting Adventure For more than a dozen years, Ayung River rafting has been hugely popular. Jl. Raya Payangan, Gianyar : 0819 994 4188 payung_rafting@yahoo.com Mega Rafting Bali Journey through winding gorges, luscious jungles, magnificent terraced rice fields and breathtaking waterfalls for unparalleled fun on the river. Jl. Hayam Wuruk No. 114 Tanjung Bungkak, Denpasar : (0361) 246724
Shopping
Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A.11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud
Diving Absolute Scuba Dive paradise in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago and at the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands. Jl. Pantai Silayukti, Padang Bai : +62 (0363) 42088 Email: info@absolutescubabali.com absolutescubabali.com
Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran - Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan - : (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu - : (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran : (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran : (0361) 4729081
Fitness
Mango Beach Bar Play pool, relax with your friends over a beer and enjoy the beach view. Jl. Pantai Kuta, Sanur Obrigado Billiard hall in downtown Denpasar. Play and enjoy Italian food. Jl. Teuku Umar, Denpasar
Paragliding
Spa
Celebrity Fitness Lippo Sunset Plaza Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta www.celebrityfitness.com
Eastern Garden Martha Tilaar Spa Luxurious, holistic, and culture blending. Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 5A, Seminyak : (0361) 731648
Where to go
1 MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Jl. Petitenget No. 6, Kerobokan Kelod, Kuta : (0361) 4737888 info@metisbali.com metisbali.com
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Jaga Jagat
Jan. 22 – Feb. 16 Art exhibition featuring the works of Antonius Kho and I Made Somadita Shankara Art Space Jl. Danau Toba No. 7, Sanur
Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA
Pulaki Gilimanuk
Mt. Batur
Mt. Sangiang
Mt. Musi
West Bali National Park
Besakih Mt. Agung
NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi
Ubud
Sangeh
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AMLAPURA BANGLI KLUNGKUNG
TABANAN
GIANYAR Tanah Lot Kerobokan
DENPASAR Canggu 4 Sanur Seminyak 2 Legian 5 Kuta 1
Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport
Jimbaran Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Friday Masterclass
Every Friday Starts 5:30 p.m. Expand your wine knowledge in a relaxed atmosphere and get insights and tasting notes in a quick and easy way from our wine expert. bridges Jl. Campuhan, Ubud : (0361) 970095 www.bridgesbali.com
Benoa Nusa Dua
Pura Batu Madan
Penida Island
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4 W Presents:
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Journey Through Asia Captured by Jean-Paul Nacivet Until March. 8 Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian www.pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com
Shiba San (Dirty Bird/France) Feb. 5 From 10 p.m. – 4 a.m. W Retreat & Spa Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106
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Sight
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple “The island’s famous picturesque landmark and a significant temple complex” Words and Photos Agung Parameswara
L
ocated on the banks of Beratan Lake, Ulun Danu Beratan is one of the biggest temples in Bali. This iconic sanctuary is located in Bedugul, an upland area around 1,239 meters above sea level and a favorite recreational spot for locals and tourists. The reflective surface of the lake surrounding the temple’s base gives the impression that it is floating, while the mountains encircling the lake provide a scenic backdrop, making Ulun Danu Beratan Temple a perennial favorite with photographers. The temple, in Candikuning village in the Baturiti district of Tabanan regency, lies some 45 kilometers from the regency’s capital and 55 kilometers north of Denpasar on the main road connecting Denpasar and Singaraja. According to the Babad Mengwi manuscript, the history of the temple can be traced back to the rise of the Mengwi kingdom, pre-1634. It was built one year before Taman Ayun, a temple in Mengwi established by king I Gusti Agung Putu. The presence of Ulun Danu Beratan temple raised the prominence of the Mengwi kingdom and it witnessed the kingdom’s golden days
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when the king was hailed by the magical title I Gusti Agung Sakti. Morning is the best time to visit as the road is usually less crowded, making it a mere onehour drive from Denpasar. Visitors can enjoy the beautiful landscape as the sun creates a reflection of the temple on the lake and shines through the tiers of the shrines. Passing through the temple gates, visitors will notice the typical Balinese architectural features and the towering tiered shrines. The temple complex is home to three main shrines, one is 11-tiered, one is seven-tiered and one three-tiered, dedicated to the worship of the gods Wisnu, Brahma and Shiva. As the temple complex occupies a low bank on the lake, the land surrounding it is often inundated, creating a floating effect that is perfect for photo opportunities. Visitors to Ulun Danu Beratan Temple pay an entrance fee of Rp 7,500 (60 US cents) for domestic tourists and Rp 10,000 for foreigners. Traditional jukung outriggers are available for hire to tour the lake, as well as motorized boats for a quicker ride.