Bali Buzz #73

Vol.3 no.21/january 28-february 3, 2016

vAsAnTi seminyAk resorT Tracing art forgeries

All things sweet

from THE EdiTor

(Do not) Throw caution to the wind

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Vasanti Seminyak resort

folks, the rainy season will be at its peak between late january and mid-february. This means the island will be drenched with rain on a daily basis and the trees, including those coconut trees near your room, will sway more often and more violently. The waves too will be taller, bigger and more erratic than before.

In this period of turbulent weather, it is always a good policy to be more cautious, especially if your itinerary includes adventure sports, water sports, scuba diving or a prolonged time outdoors. an umbrella, raincoat and windbreaker should be with you at all times. remember to sip a hot ginger tea on a daily basis to keep your body warm through the windy nights. be safe folks! — The Editor

06 Tracing art forgeries

ConTEnTs

04

05 all things sweet

Klungkung Market

07 Hiking in Payangan 08 Vasanti Seminyak resort 10 bunut bolong 11 Phinisi 12 bali food Safari 16 rain and coffee in Pupuan

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDIToRIAl AND GENERAl DEPARTMENT jl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 renon Denpasar bali

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Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

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Images

People of Baliem “A festival offers a unique glimpse into the life of tribal people” Words and Photos Agung Parameswara

B

aliem Valley is nestled in the central highlands of Papua, lying at an altitude of about 1,800 meters above sea level and surrounded by a crest of steep green mountains. It is home to three of Papua’s interior-living tribes: the Dani, Lani and Yali. The Dani live in the center, the Lani in the west and the Yali in the southeast.

Every August since 1989, these three tribes gather in Wamena for the annual Baliem Valley festival. At this event, which has as its highlight mock battles among the tribes, the Dani, Lani and Yali send their best warriors into the arena wearing their best regalia. Held over two days by about 26 groups of 30-50 people, the mock battles are performed to the accompaniment of a traditional Papuan pikon (jaw harp).

In addition to these mock battles, other celebrations include traditional dancing and music, puradan (rattan spear throwing), sikoko (spear games), pig racing, bakar batu (an ancient way of cooking large amounts of food) and a pig roast feast.

January 28, 2016

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Sojourn

C

loth lovers and collectors of traditional fabrics on vacation in Bali should put Klungkung Market on their list of must-visit places. As well as other traditional cloth, the market offers one of the largest collections of Balinese songket, a gorgeous hand-woven cloth with intricate patterns made from golden or silver threads.

In Bali, the glamorous songket is only worn during the most joyous religious festivals and social functions, as well as being the obligatory central element in the costume of Balinese brides and bridegrooms.

For years, Klungkung Market has been the go-to place for local housewives and girls from as far as Denpasar and Tabanan looking for the “trendiest” songket. Yes, while categorized as traditional cloth, songket’s metal thread patterns and colors do indeed change regularly to adapt to their clientele’s demands and expectations. The change may not be as fast-paced as the prêt-a-porter in Milan or Paris, but songket is definitely not stuck in the past. High-quality songket commands a price

Klungkung market “A go-to place for cloth lovers”

Words I Wayan Juniarta Photos Agung Parameswara

of millions of rupiah per meter.

It is common for local women to organize group trips to this market to source new songket collections or to simply order uniform kebaya (traditional blouses) for the banjar’s housewives’ association.

The designated driver, usually a desperate husband who failed to whip up a convincing excuse or feign a heart attack to avoid the duty, will either wait inside the car, in which case he is likely to die of boredom long before the shopping trip is over, or go on a shopping spree himself. The market has stalls selling manly items too, from butcher’s knives with carved handles — a must-have accessory for those pre-temple festival collective cooking sessions — to fashionable udeng headgear.

Several stalls offering delicious es campur (shaved ice), bakso (meatballs) and the famous srombotan spicy salad are also good places to meditate on the importance and necessity of being patient with your wife and her many friends.

The market lies in downtown Semarapura, the capital city of Klungkung, and is just a

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few meters across the street from the famed Kerta Gosa, the royal court hall with depictions of Balinese-style heaven and hell painted in Kamasan style on its ceiling.

Rest assured none of the paintings depict the hellish punishment for splurging money on an exquisite piece of songket — or on that gold-plated butcher’s knife.

Savor

All things

W

hat’s a birthday without a cake? And how can your dream wedding be magical in the absence of this sweet treat?

Celebrating any special occasion is much more memorable with a personalized, stunning and unique cake.

From simple, rustic, unadorned cakes to intricate, lacey and elegant ones — anything that suits your preference, you can make happen at Ixora.

Having always had a love of making cakes and being blessed with a knack for creativity, Julia and her husband Helmut started Ixora back in 1998.

From a simple beginning in their home with orders from friends and relatives, the business quickly grew to become one of the most soughtafter cake vendors in Bali, especially for couples getting married and parents celebrating their children’s birthdays.

“At that time, there was no bakery on the island able to create cakes with this style of decoration,” Almira Andi, Ixora’s owner representative, said, referring to cakes decorated with icing and fondant.

The business cashed in on the rising trend among Australians and Java’s city-dwellers for holding wedding ceremonies in Bali. During wedding high season, between April and October, Ixora can receive up to 30 orders every weekend. Birthday cake orders usually total between three and eight every day.

“All cakes can be customized to suit our clients’ style and budget. Those who don’t like fancy and complicated icing can choose simple, rustic cakes,” Almira said, adding that simple, naked cakes were on trend last year.

For special occasions, Ixora can also set up a dessert buffet that includes cupcakes, small cakes, cookies, cake pops and various other delectable treats.

Having pioneered specialty cakes, Ixora developed the family business and expanded into bread and pastries created with state-of-the-art baking facilities and premium ingredients for wholesale and retail clients.

The extensive choice ranges from full-grain loaves to buttery light croissants, as well as gluten-free bread. Every day, the bakers make various kinds of bread for hotels and restaurants across the island.

“We also create European dark breads, which are not common for the local people, but we have the market here in the expatriates and tourists.

They love to have it for breakfast,” Almira noted.

In addition to the common flavors of chocolate, carrot and red velvet,

sweet

“Delectable treats for the super sweet tooth” WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS STANNY ANGGA

cake lovers can find more unusual choices, such as almond hazelnut cake, English fruit cake and passion fruit cake.

About six years ago, wishing to extend the product range, the founders established a new company, Delicioso, that produced homemade gelato.

This small café started in Seminyak and grew rapidly, adding other food and beverages to the menu.

As of last year, new premises on Jl. Raya Semer in Kerobokan have accommodated all Ixora and Delicioso activities, including producing cakes, breads and gelato,

as well as administration, sales and the bistro kitchen.

A café, bistro and restaurant with a seating capacity for about 50 guests offers a variety of breakfast and bistro dishes during the day, and an extensive dinner menu of mainly Western and European food at night.

“Our signature dishes are Hungarian beef goulash and grilled pork belly served with sauerkraut and mashed potato,” said Lingga, Delicioso’s operations manager.

Delicioso’s concept is to offer an extended food choice to the mainly local guests living in Kerobokan, Canggu, Kuta and the surrounding neighborhoods.

January 28, 2016

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Art

Tracing art

forgeries

“Forged painting discussion and exhibition” WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF PPSI

M

arking the launch of the book titled Jejak Lukisan Palsu Indonesia (In the Footsteps of Indonesia’s Forged Paintings), the Indonesian Fine Art Lovers Association (PPSI) held a discussion and painting exhibition related to art forgeries.

Taking place at Setiadarma House of Masks and Puppets in Sukawati, Gianyar, the discussion focused on identifying forgeries, finding solutions and providing references for

collectors to help them avoid buying forgeries.

Twenty-four paintings by S. Sudjojono, Hendra Gunawan, Soedibio and Dwi Martono were showcased in the exhibition, some of which have questionable provenance.

The exhibition also serves as an opportunity for art enthusiasts to compare side-by-side paintings of certain and unclear provenance.

The PPSI art forgery team discovered that most art forgers in Indonesia were well organized and that the majority of them

resided in Java.

The book, meanwhile, targets art collectors and contains a number of articles by prominent art collectors, curators, academics and police representatives.

It contains research into the practice of forgery, articles by experts and recommendations for collectors to use in identifying forgeries.

Syakieb Sungkar, one of the book’s authors, said the book offered an in-depth study of painting forgeries in Indonesia, as well as preliminary solutions on countering forgeries.

He commented that a painting should be analyzed visually in accordance with the painter’s style, including colors and strokes, and that buyers should be able to ascertain a painting’s provenance through sales records

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from previous owners of the work to learn whether it was truly the work of the claimed artist.

PPSI chairman Budi Setiadharma said that debate over the forgery of paintings by prominent Indonesian artists had surfaced over the past few years, particularly in 2012 when collector Oei Hong Djien opened the Oei Hong Djien Museum in Magelang, Central Java, only to have art enthusiasts raise questions on the provenance of his collection.

The museum houses thousands of pieces of fine art, by emerging Indonesian artists to established masters, spanning a century of work and has been the target of numerous allegations of forgery related to pieces by late maestros — including Hendra Gunawan and S. Sudjojono — in its collection.

Sojourn

Hiking in Payangan “A trail of many surprises”

Words I Wayan Juniarta Photos Pandu Wiradarma & Gustra Adnyana

I

t turned out that the narrow, painfully steep and muddy path slowed us down for a very important reason: to prepare us for another “terrifying” sight.

The path opened up onto the huge opening of a tunnel. The sun shone brightly upon the opening but the light could not penetrate the interior. I love Batman, not Bob Kane’s but the Frank Miller one, but I hate bats and fear their natural predator: the arboreal and nocturnal snake. Both love dark places. Tunnels are dark places.

So, with mounting trepidation and a surging heart rate, I followed Jro Mangku I Made Sudarma, the priest of Puseh Bali Aga temple, who with jovial steps entered the tunnel after flashing us a mischievous smirk as he produced a tiny flashlight from his jersey.

None of us had brought a flashlight. We had all thought that the hike would be a merry, sunny outdoor affair.

“During the Japanese occupation and the following war of independence, this tunnel was frequently used as shelter by the freedom fighters and the locals,” he said as he waded along the shallow stream that runs along the tunnel.

Now it has been cleaned and prepped to be the crown attraction of the soon-to be-opened ATV adventure trail co-owned by the temple’s custodian association.

I could see tiny niches where light bulbs would be fitted at regular intervals along the wall. If they had worked faster, I thought, we would not be walking blindly in the darkness today!

“The locals love to catch bats here. Once we trapped 15 in a single session.”

I hope their fellow bats don’t pick today to avenge their losses, I remember thinking.

“It is 100 meters long.”

By ATV, 100 meters is a brief detour. On foot and with an ophidiophobic mind, it felt like forever.

The tunnel ended and we were walking along the bed of a shallow river. Green vines and climbers covered much of the towering sandstone cliff that flanked the river.

A small crevice in the cliff beckoned us.

Inside was a large chamber that could house four people, with a tiny waterfall pouring down the wall. A hidden cave with its own waterfall and Jacuzzi pool! If I were a hermit, this cave was surely the place where I would reach enlightenment.

We made another amazing discovery near the point where the river became impassable:

a huge blue excavator sat silently blocking our path.

“We hired six Javanese laborers and paid them Rp 80 million [US$5,773] to build the trail, clean and widen the river at several points using the excavator.”

Some 30 minutes later, after a rather menacing encounter with a gang of street dogs and some hilarious banter with local farmers, we arrived at the place that was the reason for the nearly 5-kilometer hike across village roads, dirt trails, two rivers, a sacred lotus pool and several pig pens in Bayad hamlet in Payangan.

Puseh Bali Aga temple stood tall before us in all its glory. The renovation project, which cost Rp 4 billion, was completed several months ago. The ensuing temple dedication ritual cost the custodians Rp 1.2 billion. It was a huge amount of money, especially for a temple that has no pelaba (land or rice fields, the revenue from which is used for temple maintenance and rituals).

“The temple’s 28 primary custodians, comprising 60 households, agreed to commit part of their private land and rice fields to be used for the development of the ATV trail and its supporting facilities. In return, the business revenue will be used to support the temple.”

January 28, 2016

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Vasanti Seminyak Resort WORDS DESY NURHAYATI PHOTOS COURTESY OF VASANTI SEMINYAK RESORT

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“Stylish retreat in the urban village of Petitenget”

Cover Story

L

ocated on a private lane and surrounded by rice-field views, Vasanti Seminyak Resort is the perfect place for travelers seeking serenity and nature in the midst of one of Bali’s famed tourist spots.

Reflecting an energizing interpretation of contemporary Balinese design with subtle baroque influences, the resort’s ambience is fresh and vibrant, yet still manages to honor the island’s rich cultural heritage.

This stylish retreat is a contemporary interpretation of Bali’s evolving design ethos, with 121 elegant rooms and suites to satisfy the needs of modern travelers.

With wining and dining facilities, as well as a spa for personal indulgence, this retreat ensures guests enjoy their vacation and living life to the fullest away from the hustle and bustle of Seminyak.

Upon entering the lobby area, guests will have an impression of a stylish, modern and contemporary building that is still unmistakably Balinese.

Vasanti has made use of the five elements of wood, earth, metal, fire and water in its concept as a philosophical system

of harmonizing with the surrounding environment.

Each room in the resort has a modern, elegant design with a touch of Indonesian batik to create a classy luxury and comfort.

Equipped with top quality mattresses, large bathrooms and balconies, every type of room is tailored to guest needs and is visually appealing.

While the Deluxe Room, Deluxe Pool View, Deluxe Lanai Room and Deluxe Pool Access ensure personal comfort and convenience, the Junior Suite redefines luxury with additional space and modern home comforts to enrich the quality of stay. An inspiring decor celebrates Bali’s creative heritage with a combination of smart furnishings and artistic elements.

The resort also provides four 80-square meter Vasanti Suites, which truly embody the spirit of tropical living with bespoke interior, high-end facilities and meticulous attention to detail.

There is ample space to unwind with clearly defined areas to sleep, bathe and relax.

A private terrace features a pair of reclining sunbeds, as well as a large Jacuzzi concealed

behind a planter box of native greenery.

In addition to good sleep, good food will surely enhance the quality of the stay. At Vasanti, guests can indulge in a breakfast buffet at Devali Restaurant with delicious Asian and international cuisine, fresh tropical fruit and vegetable salads.

Devali is an all-day restaurant and bar with an edgy decor that elevates the experience of the hotel’s wining and dining.

Decorative hardwood structuring and elaborate stone columns are complemented by clean-line table settings in an environment that blends seamlessly into the outdoors.

The overall look is a playful take on the dynamics of hospitality design. The diner has an open-plan kitchen serving modern cuisine and classic dishes to anticipate the taste preferences of international guests.

Above Kitchen and Lounge at Vasanti Seminyak Resort adds another dimension to the property with a vibrant setting for social interaction, serving Indonesian food from the eastern reach to the western tip of the archipelago, as well as Asian cuisine.

The foyer is decorated creatively with vintage doors and overlooks the indoor flower garden. The Above Kitchen and Lounge is protected from the elements by an impressive angular roof showcasing exposed beams and bamboo detailing.

There are clusters of seating options and mood-enhancing lights to create areas of intimacy, while an open-air deck with sweeping views over the distant Indian

Ocean is a stylish space to unwind over sunset drinks, high tea and listen to chill-out tunes For those who love fun under the sun, Splash Bar invites sun lovers to beat the heat of the day with a menu of refreshing beverages and light bites to enjoy around the pool. Thirsts are quenched with a range of tropical juices, exotic cocktails and icy cold beers. A superb selection of homemade treats, including cakes and pastries, are available at the Deli and Sweets Corner.

Meanwhile, guests who love to keep the balance between personal harmony and the environment can join the morning Yoga classes.

For absolute indulgence, take a treatment at Aswangga Wellness Spa to rejuvenate mind, body and spirit. The spa offers a nurturing menu of relaxation and beauty rituals based on the traditions of Indonesia’s timeless healing heritage. Therapists are trained to counteract the effects of modern living and replenish depleted energy levels through the therapeutic art of touch.

Natural products and essential oils are used to enhance the experience of head-to-toe indulgence.

Vasanti Seminyak Resort is a perfect and beautiful resort for those who seek serene tranquility and Balinese culture.

The resort is surrounded by beautiful, terraced rice-field views and nature to create an unforgettable experience for your vacation in Bali.

January 28, 2016

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Sight

Bunut Bolong “A tranquil stopping point on the road to Singaraja”

T

he locals call it Gelung Kori Agung, literally the crown of a grand door, but for visitors it is popularly known as Bunut Bolong, a huge tree with a large hole in its trunk that a car can easily pass through; in fact, there is indeed an asphalt road going through the hole.

The road connects Pekutatan, a small town in Jembrana, a regency known for its agricultural produce, with the coastal city of Singaraja, the island’s second-most populous urban center.

An additional road was constructed around the tree to accommodate the local beliefs that hearses, cars carrying brides, bridegrooms, or cremation ash are not allowed to pass through Bunut Bolong as they may contaminate the sanctity of the place or, even worse, incite the wrath of its guardian deities. Without doubt, no Balinese would deliberately tempt the anger of any deity.

Bunut Bolong lies in the hilly region of Manggissari, around 90 kilometers west of Denpasar. The long drive from Denpasar takes visitors past the pristine beaches of Jembrana, where black sand and wild waves team up to

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Words and Photos Eka Juni Artawan

create an intriguing challenge for swimmers and surfers, to the scenic rural villages with lush paddy fields, tranquil cocoa plantations and rows upon rows of tall coconut trees.

Unlike the “villages” in Badung and Gianyar, the villages here rarely see large groups of foreigners, thus offering visitors a more authentic glimpse into daily life in rural Balinese villages.

The tree with a hole is obviously the main attraction here.

But patient visitors who give themselves adequate time to sit at a nearby warung and order a cup of local coffee, will be treated with another interesting sight: a stunning vista of seemingly boundless undisturbed forest that gently rolls into the valley. There is no summit, but several hills provide a beautiful backdrop for the indigenous eagles that soar around the sky at an unbelievable speed before gliding lazily below the tree line.

It is certainly a place of natural tranquility, where one can be forgiven for taking hours to finish a cup of coffee and letting the mind wander to ancient times when stoic hermits roamed the lush forest in search of inner peace.

sight

PHinisi

T

he phinisi, the traditional two-masted sailing ship of the South Sulawesi bugis people, is arguably the most iconic image of the nation’s ancient maritime glory. In olden times, the bugis sailors sailed across the archipelago and beyond aboard these wooden schooners known for their speed and agility.

During feudal times, mercenaries from the region served as the naval forces for competing kingdoms in java and bali, enforcing sea blockades or engaging in coastal skirmishes.

I La Galigo, the world’s longest manuscript detailing the creation narrative of the South Sulawesi indigenous ethnic group, mentions

“an agIle SHIP THaT forMS THe Core of THe bugIS-MaKaSSar PeoPle’S MaSTery oVer THe Sea” WorDS anD PHoToS Agung PArAmeswArA

that the first phinisi was constructed by Sawerigading, the crown prince of luwu, who used the two-masted ship to sail to China to pick up his bride-to-be.

Historians agree that the phinisi have roamed the waters of the archipelago since the 14th century. largely built using the design and construction techniques passed down from generation to generation, phinisi have now become the preferred sailing boat of many tour operators catering to wealthy clients who want to experience a unique journey across the country’s eastern waters and around its islands.

The popularity of such sail trips has played

an important role in sustaining phinisi builders in South Sulawesi. The center of phinisi shipbuilding lies in two areas — Tana beru and bira — in bulukumba regency, 180 kilometers south of Makassar.

The boat craftsmen in bulukumba do not have any special engineering training. They don’t need complicated designs or technical calculations to determine the quantity of materials needed. everything is handled according to traditional methods, including the elaborate rites performed at every stage of the construction and the sacrificial offering at the launching of the newly finished phinisi.

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savor

Bali

food safari “a MySTery gourMeT Tour”

b

ali is not only the island of a thousand temples, it is also a culinary paradise with more than enough choice to keep a tribe of gourmands happy for far longer than the span of a normal vacation.

Whether you delight in Indonesian street food, coffee shop fare, pan-asian delights or fine dining, the island has numerous places to tempt your taste buds and fill your social media feed. With this vast array of delectable dining venues available, deciding which to try, how to get there and fitting all your top choices into your schedule can be a daunting task.

If fine dining is your thing, then bali food Safari may have the answer.

Mystery food tours are available in Seminyak, jimbaran and ubud and take in “some of the most

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WorDS AmAnDA O’COnnOr PHoToS COurtesy OF BAlI FOOD sAFArI

remarkable and most respected restaurants in bali”. guests enjoy up to 12 delightful courses at three or four restaurants, each with its own style of cuisine for “one special evening”. all the tours start around 5 p.m. so you can be at your first location in time to enjoy the sunset; each venue presents up to three small servings of its specialties, with up to an hour at each restaurant so you can kick back and relax.

Picking ubud for our culinary mystery tour, we were picked up in the bali food Safari vehicle and, after a short introduction and explanation from our guide, headed out on our adventure.

Making the most of ubud’s stunning woodland river valleys, we were charmed by the rural beauty of the first restaurant — which we can’t name, to

maintain the mystery of each tour! our guide explained we would have three asian fusion food starters and a complimentary glass of wine, then left us to enjoy the scenery.

The professional staff quickly brought out the first course, a delightful asian-style chicken salad, with a glass of local wine and let us wander the garden and admire the view. The unique and gorgeous rendang-inspired pasta here was a sensation! our next venue offered beautifully presented, authentic Italian food.

The staff were highly professional and escorted us to our table, where a special menu noted exactly what we would be eating and provided a range of drinks, for a reasonable extra cost, that we could try. The goat’s cheese stuffed zucchini blossoms were my favorite of our three courses, but each was divine. our final destination was “dessert only” at a tiny, ultra-exclusive venue, where we were welcomed, chatted with the chef and presented with an amazingly inventive, delicious dessert, as well as coffee and a “jewelry-case” of petit fours, bringing the culinary mystery journey to an end on a very high note.

So if you just can’t decide where to have dinner, try the safari; prices start at uS$149 per head and groups are welcome.

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Island Buzz Sephora expands in Indonesia

Nyepi at Mulia Bali

International brand Sephora, a retailer of prestigious, high-end beauty products, dedicated to newness, trends, unbiased service and an interactive shopping environment, has opened its first store in Bali in Discovery Shopping Mall, Kuta.

Featuring Balinese welcome dances at the opening, Sephora Indonesia aims to fulfill local and international consumer needs for beauty products, while complimenting and strengthening Bali’s position as a tourist destination.

Exclusive brands, such as Marc Jacobs Beauty, Stila, Too Faced, Dior, Benefit Cosmetics, MAKE UP FOR EVER and GLAM GLOW are all available at the new store, which is the brand’s fifth in Indonesia.

“Sephora’s vision for Indonesia is to be an absolute beauty authority, promoting a new shopping experience with an unparalleled range of products and a high standard of service. We hope to make Sephora Indonesia a destination where customers can learn the latest beauty trends and tips to further compliment their savvy lifestyles” said Agus Gozali, president director of PT Panen Wangi Abadi Indonesia for Sephora.

Sephora, which has a cult following, was founded in France by Dominique Mandonnaud in 1969 with the vision providing shoppers with access to luxury and niche brands and is now owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH), the world’s leading luxury goods group.

The Mulia, Mulia Resort and Villas – Nusa Dua, Bali invites travelers to experience the serene side of the island and share in the remarkable spiritual day that is Nyepi, known as “the day of silence”.

As all guests must stay within the resort grounds on that day, make the most of Mulia Bali’s eight dining outlets, pools and fitness facilities; join a Kapha Yoga meditation to clear the mind, body and spirit, or head to Mulia Spa, one of the Condé Nast Traveler USA 2015 Readers’ Choice Awards winners, for full- or half-day spa experiences, wellness cuisine and a training regime designed to nurture and restore guests’ wellbeing.

Nyepi is one of the most sacred holidays in the Balinese Hindu calendar, when noise is kept to a minimum throughout the island and all lighting is reduced at night.

The myth and belief is that when the evil spirits awaken on Nyepi and descend on the island, they will believe it is uninhabited and leave for another year.

No major activity, noise or transportation (including flights) is allowed on the island for 24 hours, starting from 6 a.m. on 9 March, and no one is allowed outdoors.

Enjoy Mulia Bali’s resort activities and experience this unique and annual tradition.

January 28, 2016

13

Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com Mirror First Anniversary “Galactic” Jan. 29 Starts 11 p.m.

Jl. Petitenget No. 106, Seminyak Petani Restaurant Special Performances Live music every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m.

Alaya Ubud Jl. Hanoman, Ubud : (0361) 972200 Sunset Beach Bar & Grill Every Saturday Chill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality.

Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran : (0361) 701888

W Bali Presents

Late Night Session feat. Anja Schneider Feb. 4 From 10 p.m. – 4 a.m.

Woobar at W Retreat Bali Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106

Events Chinese Food Festival Jan. 31 From 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Trans Resort Bali Jl. Sunset Road, Kerobokan Free Pizza Event Every Thursday From 2 – 10:30 p.m.

Ristorante Spaccanapoli Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud

Denpasar

Kuta

Barong & Keris Dance Everyday Starts 9 a.m.

Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar : (0361) 224596

Traditional & Modern Performances Every day (Except Wednesday) Starts 8 p.m.

Kuta Theater Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta : (0361) 762750

Ubud

Tropical Madness: Australia Day Jan. 26 From 11 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Hu’u Bar Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak Untitled: Photo Exhibition Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.

Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784 Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1.

Meads Boutique Villas Hotel Jl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa : (0361) 776604

Mangku Murti + Teja Astawa “Eternal Line” Exhibition Dec. 3 – Feb. 3 Sudakara Art Space Sudamala Suites & Villas Sanur Jl. Sudamala No. 20, Sanur : (0361) 288555 Email: artspace@sudamalaresorts.com www.sudakaraartspace.com

Jimbaran

Food & Drinks

Kecak & Fire Dance Everyday Starts 6 p.m.

Uluwatu Temple Jimbaran, Badung : (0361) 9041163

REStauRant

Hooray Kids Jungle Jamboree Jan. 30 Starts 10 a.m.

Jl. Teuku Umar Barat No. 335B/C, Denpasar : (0361) 8466700 Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday From 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.

Mannekepis Jazz and Blues Bistro Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 8475784

Best romantic restaurants in Bali that will make you feel dreamy.

Tirtha Dining Open daily, 5 – 10 p.m.

Jl. Uluwatu, Br. Dinas Karang Boma, Pecatu : 0828 361 1111 El Kabron Open daily, 11:30 a.m. – 11:30 p.m.

Jl. Pantai Cemongkak, Pecatu : 0851 008 03416

Jenja Weekenders: Fur Coat Jan. 22 Starts 11 p.m.

Jenja Townsquare Suites Jl. Nakula 18, Seminyak

Gardin Open daily Sun – Tue 11 a.m. – 1 p.m. and Wed – Sat 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Jl. Petitenget No. 106, Seminyak : (0361) 8499799

Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every Thursday From 8 – 11 a.m.

Come and join workshops and the fun of sharing farm duties.

Kul Kul Farm Bali Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, Badung E-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com

La Lucciola Open daily, 9 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Pantai Petitenget, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 730838

Latin Grooves with Tropical Transit Jan. 31 Starts 7:30 p.m.

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Limbo Hip Every Thursday Starts 8:30 p.m.

Lacalita Jl. Raya Batu Bolong No. 68, Canggu Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday Live Music Every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday Salsa Dance Every Sunday Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta : (0361) 755297

14

ART & CULTURE CORNER

January 28, 2016

Swept Away Open daily, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.

The Samaya Ubud, Br. Baung, Ubud : (0361) 973606 Bridges Open daily, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud : (0361) 970095 Cascades Restaurant Open daily, 7 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Viceroy Bali, Jl. Lanyahan, Ubud : (0361) 972111

CoffEE Shop

Calonarang Dance Every Thursday, Sunday Starts 7:30 p.m.

Mawang Village, Ubud Legong Dance Every Friday Starts 7:30 p.m.

Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera) Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud : (0361) 972124 or 970503

Black Canyon Ngurah Rai International Airport : (0361) 8491805

Black Canyon Amaris Jl. Teuku Umar No. 139, Denpasar : (0361) 9378042 / 9378043

Bumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee.

Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan

Tour & Travel Agent

Perama Tour & Travel Bali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia.

Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience.

Head Office. Jl. Legian No. 39, Kuta : (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808 www.peramatour.com

Shopping Delta Dewata The first supermarket in Ubud Jl. Raya Andong No.14, Ubud : (0361) 973 049, 978 071

Listed by,

Bintang Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, Kuta Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Papaya Fresh Gallery Jl. Mertanadi, Kuta Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan, Phone (0361) 705454 Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu, Phone (0361) 7472303 Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919 Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 4729081

Where to go 2

1

MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery Bali

All You Can Eat at The Deli Restaurant

French Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment.

Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan : (0361) 4737 888 E-mail: info@metisbali.com metisbali.com

Every Day Starts 6 p.m.

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana Jl. Melasti No. 1, Legian : (0361) 762500 pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

Menjangan Island SINGARAJA LOVINA

Pulaki Gilimanuk

Mt. Batur

Mt. Sangiang

Mt. Musi

West Bali National Park

Besakih Mt. Agung

NEGARA Pura Rambut Siwi

AMLAPURA Sangeh

Ubud

4 TABANAN

BANGLI KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR

Tanah Lot Kerobokan

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Jimbaran

3

Pura Luhur Uluwatu

DENPASAR

1

Canggu Seminyak Legian Kuta

3 Sanur 2

Benoa Nusa Dua

Pura Batu Madan

Penida Island

4 4

Visual Literacy Workshop Feb. 13 From 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Rumah Sanur Creative Hub Jl. Danau Poso No. 51A, Sanur

Topeng Jimat

Every Wednesday Starts 7 p.m.

ARMA Museum & Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan

January 28, 2016

15

Sojourn

Rain and coffee

in Pupuan “A rainy day leads to a cup of unforgettable experience”

Words Luhde Suriyani Photos Anton Muhajir

T

he sound of the rain hitting the leaves of coffee and durian plants crafted a sensuous music that caressed our ears as we huddled inside a rugged barn that for years has served as the heart of a locally owned coffee company.

Along the wall of the barn were five crude wood-fire hearths staffed by five women, who at regular intervals turned the metal handles of the iron drums hung over the fires. Inside each drum was around 17 kilograms of coffee beans.

We had been there for only five minutes and the heat generated by the fires had already driven the cold of the January rain away. The women work near the hearths for eight hours a day and chat and mock each other casually, as

if they are oblivious to the heat.

The drums are not equipped with any sensors and the fires do not have any temperature gauge. The workers do not need them anyway. Using only their sense of smell, honed by years of experience, they can accurately recognize when the beans have been perfectly roasted.

One of these women was Ni Nyoman Minten, who has worked for the company for 15 years, making her the most senior worker around. Diligently, the 40-year-old woman maintained the fire, feeding firewood into the hearth and rolling the drum at regular intervals.

It took around 90 minutes to roast the

beans to perfection. Minten lifted the lid of the drum to check the escaping fragrance, which convinced her that the beans were ready. She then took the drum to a nearby room, where another worker would empty the contents onto a cooling pad.

“This coffee processing company has existed since before I was born. In the olden times, we used much simpler methods and tools,” Minten recalled.

The company, which produces the Mutiara brand of powdered coffee, is managed by Kompiang Artini and her sisters. It can process up to 400 kilograms of coffee beans and produce up to 200 kilograms of powdered coffee per day, mostly sold in local markets in Tabanan and Denpasar.

16

January 28, 2016

“It is getting difficult to find a steady supply of firewood. We once switched to gas and electric stoves, but the coffee was less tasty than when it is roasted in a wood-fire hearth,” she said.

Most of the beans come from plantations owned by Artini’s family and their neighbors.

Her company is one of several locally owned small and mid-sized coffee processing companies that dot the hilly region of Pupuan in Tabanan.

The rain had not stopped but we did not mind at all. Cups of hot coffee were placed on the table before us and nothing could beat the contentment brought by sipping on good coffee while watching the long-awaited rain.