E XCLUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B US I N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C S E A R EG I O N
August 2013 (25)
FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!
Dear Readers, I am welcoming you to sunny August, just returning from a whole year planned vacation, and now you are rested, full of new energy and forces. Summer for most of our holiday time, when for a short time makes you want to break away from the carefully designed fast pace of life, business change agenda mild and pleasant relaxation with its closest humans ... just to be alone and relax. Our summer issue of the magazine as well as less business, it takes you to the wonderful world of art, introduse you to jewellery art events “Number 10. Victoria“ in Lithuania, “Legnica Festival of SILVER“ in Poland and the “Aqua Terra“ in Kaliningrad (Russia) over the jewelry art for events. We invite you to take a look at professional and distinctive styles of the artists from various countries, evaluate diverse jewelry art pieces created with infinitive imagination. Enjoy the works of the authors, who were already well-known and get to know new names. Find yourself a new idea here,
and Kazimieras Mizgiriai from Lithuania. The International
get inspired.
Amber Association awarded them with “The Best Partner
Also, you will learn about the most interesting and unex-
of Amber Business 2012” award.
pected events of the 10th anniversary exhibition of Baltic jewelry “Amber Trip”.
I would like to congratulate jewelry companies that are celebrating the anniversaries.
The region of Kaliningrad (Russia) remains the most scan-
This year, “House of Amber” in Denmark is celebrating its
dalous neighbor in the Baltic region. The radical changes
80th anniversary. It is one of the oldest and largest com-
in makes to believe that the adopted programe for strate-
panies in the world that produce exquisite jewelry pieces.
gic development of amber jewelry industry eventually will
One of largest amber companies of Lithuania that are well
give the results, and very soon we will have an international
known in the international world of amber “Amber by
exhibition of amber. You never know, whether Gdansk
Mazukna” celebrating their 20th anniversary.
should be worried, but they will have to share the name of the Amber Capital... Have a nice reading! This time the rubric of personalities introduces two authoritative figures who are recognized in the world of
ANGELE JUODZEVICIENE
amber art, who are always warm and smiling – Virginija
Editor-in-Chief
CONTENT: August 2013 (25)
4
Topicalities 4
NO to paradoxes, YES to renaissance
Lithuanian jewellery report
6
Vilnius – The Capital Of The Baltic Jewellery and Love
8
“Amber by Mazukna” already 20 years in the amber market
11
The tenth victory
28
“5D” Jewellery Art Contest XI International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” 12–15th March, 2014
29
Jewellery Art Contest “5D” International Baltic Jewellery
30
Jewellery exhibition PRADAS. Baltic jewellery.
Polish Jewellery Report
32
Ambermart – the 14th International Amber Fair
34
In Legnica we breathe with silver
36
Jewellery is more than just decoration
37
The summary of JUBINALE 2013
40
Watches and jewellery in the Polish market – Summary of
Show “Amber Trip” 2014, Application Form
the year 2012
9
Kaliningrad Region RF Jewellery Report
44
Amber Will Go On!
46
Warmth of the Solar Stone in “Alatyr 2013”
48
Conference “Amber and Its Imitations”
50
Art and Industry College has graduated the first in the region amber jewellers
Belarusian jewellery report
51
Jewellery holding company “Crystal Holding” is demonstrating impressive economic performance
52
Latvian jewellery report
52
3 knots 3 wishes
Estonian jewellery report
55
We feel comfortable
German jewellery report
57
Intergem 2013 – The home of gemstones
59
Germany is a well-established market for gems and
61
jewellery
Dannish jewellery report “House of Amber” celebrates 80 years anniversary
Worldwide report
64
Official Price for Raw Amber by “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”
65
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber
67
The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
69
The Worldwide Gold Price
70
Istanbul Jewelry Show October The Largest October Edition
61
To Date
Geommology 72
Treated and synthetic diamonds: can you identify them yourself?
PART 2. CVD synthetic diamond
Technology 74 Perfactory ® 74 75
3D printing opportunities
Personality 77
You get as much as you give
Fashion 82
Detail of the minimalism – collection of “House of Amber”
84
India International Jewellery Week
74
Other 88 Caricature 89 Criminals 90
Baltic Jewellery News Announces
91 Announcement 92
SUBSCRIPTION FORM
94
Choose your company's advertisment in “Baltic Jewellery News“
95
Baltic Jewellery News Magazine March 2013 Distributions List
96 Congratulate 98
Our friends
100
Application Form for XI International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”
Baltic Jewellery News/ August 2013 (25) Ausros Vartu str. 15–5, LT-01129, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel.: +370 5 2120823; fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail.: info@balticjewellerynews.com Editor-in-chief/ANGELE JUODZEVICIENE/+370 5 2120823; E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Designer/DANA SMITIENE/
Translator/VERTIMU GURU/ CIRCULATION 3000
Reporter: Lithuania /A. Juodzeviciene/ office@balticjewellerynews.com; Dr. Jurgita Ludaviciene/ jurgita@tytoalba.lt; Poland: Ewa Rachon / ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.p; Monika Szaptowicz/ galeria@galeria.legnica.pl; Martyna Kwak/ joanna.n.fronczak@gmail.com; Beata Kołodziejska /beata@jubinale.com; Jolanta Tokarczyk/ jpratzer@unit.com.pl; Kaliningrad Region RF: Svetlana Kalinina/ ksa_amber@mail.ru; Germany: Sabrina Kretzschmar/ office@intergem.de; Jenna Franklin/ jfranklin@envisiontec.com: Turkey: Cemal Bulunmaz/ cemalbulunmaz@gmail.com; Selda Arik/ Selda. Arik@ubm.com; Belgium/J. Van Royen/Sven.Peeters@hrdantwerp.be Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region Population over 80 million Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is no permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.
We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!
TOPICALITIES
NO to paradoxes,
YES to renaissance
A strategy for the development of amber industry in Russia until 2012: to increase annual extraction of amber up to 1.3 times, up to 450 tons, decrease the export of raw materials from 400 to 50 tons per year, and expand the sales of amber jewelry 6 times – from 19 mln EUR to 114 mln EUR.
Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE Sad facts in the amber land:
Therefore, the paradoxes continues: Gdansk (Poland)
The amount of produced amber jewelry in the
is considered to be the capital of amber that creates and
Kaliningrad region (Russia) does not exceed 10%.
produces stunning jewelry and works of art from amber,
The amount of excavated raw amber does not exceed
which comes from Kaliningrad. They are admired by the
340 tons per annum.
whole world, and the Kaliningrad region, which is a re-
Around 150 tons of raw material are excavated
gion of amber treasures, remains in the shadows… with
illegally.
its shadow economy.
The main portion of raw amber is exported. Initiatives towards Renaissance:
Over the last ten years, the number of amber jewelry companies in the Kaliningrad region decreased from 359
The most important and promising novelty is that
THE AMBER COMPANIES in Kaliningrad WILL BE ABLE TO EXPORT AMBER and its jewelry products to other regions of Russia IN A SIMPLIFIED MANNER. Until now, business-
to 50. Paradoxical statistic about money from amber jewellery business: In Poland, over 4000 of jewelry companies add 500
men from Kaliningrad had to provide a certificate of origin
million EUR per annum to the state budget.
and documentation of expertise in order to export jewelry
In Lithuania, over 1000 of companies and 250 million
products to the other regions of Russia and the Custom
EUR per annum.
Union countries. Excluding the cost of precious time, tak-
Russia – 5 million EUR. 100 times less than Poland and
ing care of the documents used to take up to 3 days, so
50 times less than Lithuania.
the businessmen had a lot of expenses. The certificate
Over the last 4 years, 1922 tons of raw amber were
cost around 16 EUR, and the expertise 70 EUR.
sent abroad.
Since July of this year, it will be possible to export am-
During the same taime legal export of raw amber con-
ber and its products from Kaliningrad in a simplified man-
sisted 1346 tones.
ner. Customs officials will require to provide only a way-
Cardinal changes also take place in the Amber Combine: The Combine transferred to the state corporation “Russian Technologies”, before now it belonged to the Ministry of Finance of the Russian Federation. NEW CEO APPOINTED MICHAEL ZACEPIN, previously he worked Deputy Managing Director of “The Russian Satellite Communication Company”. PREVIOUS CEO OF AMBER FACTORY YURI MUKHIN became an adviser to the General Director of “Russian Technologies”. IS IT A RENAISSANCE OR A PARADOX, TIME WILL SHOW. www.balticjewellerynews.com
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It is exciting and optimistic that in autumn 2014, Kaliningrad is seriously thinking about organizing an international exhibition of amber jewelry in order to attract large industrial policy, development of business and trade of the Government of Kaliningrad region “Its already registered 20 companies that excavate amber and would like to participate in the exhibition. And one of the largest organizers from St. Petersburg, who organizes jewelry exhibitions in Russia, agreed to work with us.”
BY THE SUMMER OF 2014, it is planned to organize AN INTERNATIONAL AMBER AUCTION, where the large and medium-size pieces
Jewellery from Lev Romanenko studio
will be displayed. The organizers of the auction is the Kaliningrad Amber Factory and Regional Government.
bill, documents required for the transportation of goods, and documents provided by the Assay Inspectorate of
The strategic project for developing the industry of amber supposed to tighten the administrative responsi-
Kaliningrad region. This strategic plan adopted in the spring for develop-
bility for those, who excavate amber illegally, by confis-
ing the amber industry in the Kaliningrad region seemed
cating their technical equipment used to excavate amber.
unreal. The authorities of both Moscow and especially
The Kaliningrad Amber Factory is included in the list of
Kaliningrad seriously decided to balance the extraction
privatized federal enterprises of 2012–2013. According to
and production of amber, as well as eliminate all illegal
the data of Assay Inspectorate, in 2012, the production of
amber businesses.
amber jewelry has increase by 35% compared with 2011.
Despite of this fact, the unsolved issue of simplified
Also it is anticipated to build an exhibition center of amber business.
customs procedure was essential in the preparation to do great deeds and fulfill the obligations.
A total estimated amount for the recovery and modernization of amber cluster is more than 126 million EUR.
The plans for recovering the industry of amber are indeed grand, as it should be set by the most important
All what is left to say:
“лёд тронулся господа присяжные заседатели”.
holders of amber.
In AUTUMN 2014, Kaliningrad IS SERIOUSLY THINKING ABOUT ORGANIZING AN INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF AMBER JEWELRY in order to attract large and strong amber merchants.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
5
TOPICALITIES
and strong amber merchants. Dmitry Chemakin, minister of
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
VILNIUS – The Capital Of Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE
A
ll those who regard themselves as beauty and
During the exhibition was held international jewel-
art enthusiasts as well as critics, professionals,
lery art competition “Number 10. Victoria”. Main material
and amateurs were invited and welcomed at
was: metal + amber. The competition was attended by
the X Anniversary International Baltic Jewellery
artists from Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Poland, Germany,
Exhibition “Amber Trip”. It is a tradition already that
Russia, Austria, Spain and Finland. The first prize went to
during the first month of spring, Vilnius becomes the
Rasma Puspure (Latvia) and Dite Dilginiene (Lithuania), the
capital of the Baltic jewellery. This year it was already the
third – Nauris Naslenas (Lithuania). Special prizes: Yurij
X ANNIVERSARY chance to see jewellery art pieces
Velikotsky (Russia), Yurij Bilkov (Russia), Gerhard Helmer
from the entire world in Vilnius on 13–16 March, 2013.
(Germany), Ela Pavinskiene (Lithuania), Ramune Judaite-
“Amber Trip” is the biggest exhibition of special-
Miseviciene (Lithuania).
ized jewellery in the Baltic Sea Region countries. This an-
To get new contacts and to purchase exceptional prod-
nual event is important to the entire jewellery community:
ucts at a special prices VIP guests came from Australia,
professionals and designers, production organizers and
Switzerland, Austria, Belarus, Russia, Denmark, Finland,
practitioners, jewellery industry enterprises and produc-
France, Germany, Japan, USA, Latvia, Estonia, Poland,
ers of technology machines, devices, and equipment. The
Turkey, Mexico, UK, China – the last is particularly inter-
exhibition presented jewellery from Lithuania, Poland,
ested in amber and capabilities to make longterm orders.
Latvia, Estonia, Turkey, Germany, Russia, Czech Republic,
Totally more than 9 thousand visitors have bought elegant
Italy, Ukraine. The possibility to share useful contacts and
jewelry at the exhibition.
to sell jewellery production has about 120 companies. Giving the proper respect to amber, we would like to
The betrothed pair Natali Piskariova and Jakub Chernecky
underline that our exhibition is not only devoted to amber: 70% of all jewellery presented for judgement of critics is made out of amber, the remaining 30% is jewellery pieces made from gold, silver, diamonds, rubies, pearls, and etc. The success of this year’s exhibition “Amber Trip” shows that participants and visitors from nearly 20 countries gathered to present their creations, exchange the ideas, and to make valuable business connections as well as to just enjoy being around other people with the same passion.
“AMBER TRIP” Anniversary Exhibition
this year, is indeed, an extraordinary event for one pair of lovers – in the exhibitor's “Aukso Centras” (“Golden Centre's”) stand – MR. JAKUB CHERNECKIY (Russia) select a ring for his girlfriend NATALI PISKAREVA and asked to merry him. www.balticjewellerynews.com
6
Algirdas Sysas, Deputy Speaker of the Seimas of the Republic
of Lithuania and Giedrius Guntorius, the organizer of International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”
XI INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW “AMBER TRIP” INVITES YOU TO VILNIUS, LITHUANIA, ON 12 – 15 MARCH 2014! Special privileges for VIP Guests of the XI International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” 1. On your arrival organizers will meet you at the airport; 2. Accommodation at the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva – 2 last nights free * 3. Invitation to Anniversary party which will be full of pleasant surprises as always. Program is still under edition and organizers ensure that the evening will be a wonderful as it is already proven through ten years. You will spend evening surrounded by the honour guests and have memorable moments. 4. Free business dinner; 5. Free daily entrance to all Show events; 6. Free amber massage; 7. Information package; 8. Free guided tour in Vilnius or Trakai; 9. Free taxi from the hotel to the airport on your departure (costs covered by the organizers); 10. Towards the the exhibition days you will get more offers. *if you will stay during all exhibition from 12th untill 15th of March
At the “Amber Trip” show
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The Baltic Jewellery and Love
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“AMBER BY MAZUKNA” already 20 years in the amber market
The company “Amber by Mazukna”, one of the largest enterprises specializing in amber jewelry in Lithuania offering but the collections of the highest quality and unique design, is celebrating its 20 th anniversary this year. On the mission of the company, successes and challenges, we talk with Aleksas Mazukna, one of the founders of “Amber by Mazukna”.
“Amber by Mazukna” is celebrating the 20 th an-
TV, shop networks; we have been participating in many
niversary of its activity this year. Could you tell us,
international jewellery exhibitions.
how did it start?
The toughest moments were in the beginning, when
The roots are even deeper. When I studied in the
it was far from clear what to produce, where to sell. All
Faculty of Nature in Vilnius University, my interest in am-
solutions had to be made by ourselves, nobody could give
ber as a jewellery material with the remaining inclusions
a proper answer. Such period had lasted a few years. After
developed naturally. I was interested in various stones
it, we encountered the dollar depreciation. Most of our
suitable for jewellery, however, only amber was easy to
clients were from the North America. It was the period we
find and process in Lithuania. After graduation of the
had worked for our survival.
University, together with my brother Zenonas we decided
After Lithuania’s accession to the European Union
to start the entrepreneurship of amber processing and
many qualified specialists left for other European States in
trade, we founded “Amber by Mazukna” in 1993.
the hunt for a better paid job. The number of employees
What were the most impressive developments
has reduced by 50 per cent. At present, more than 90
during this period, what are your highest achieve-
highly qualified workers are employed by the enterprise.
ments and most difficult challenges?
You are an international business company.
In the course of 20 years, we have developed into one
How do tastes of your clients for amber jewellery
of the world leading companies manufacturing amber
differ in various markets, what is the most popular
jewellery. Among our clients are wholesalers, superstores,
decoration?
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Tastes of clients vary. Europeans prefer jewellery looking
It’s delightful that the company contributes to the
more naturally, Chinese like larger ones of an exceptional
glorification of the name of Lithuania as the state of am-
quality, Japanese enjoy a top quality items of a smaller size.
ber participating in the international jewelry exhibitions
Classical items remain the top selling decorations. All
and it is slightly vexing they do not include the exhibition
always buy them. The jewellery products of unique design
“Amber Trip” into their schedules while going through the
are always in demand. You will find the latest fashion ide-
arrangements for the coming exhibitions. Why? “The ex-
as and reflections of your emotions, feelings and dreams
hibition “Amber Trip” takes place at the time when other
in our products.
international jewellery exhibitions are arranged in Hong
When asked how they succeeded to keep on top dur-
Kong and “Amberif” in Poland. It is simply impossible to
ing the economic crisis, Mr Aleks replied trying not to
prepare and present the company as good as possible at
overestimate the fact: “The prices of the rivals’ products
a time, we were short of time. Thus, we are bound to sus-
went up, not just ours, the entrepreneurship provisions,
tain from the participation in the exhibition “Amber Trip,”
therefore, did not alter greatly. Saving money, some cli-
Mr Aleks remained very diplomatic in his reply. It is interesting, what would be the advice of the
ents started giving preference to the items of a lower
experienced amber entrepreneur to the rookie?
quality or smaller. Endeavouring to keep clients, we focused our attention on the quality.” The
company
remains
strong
It is far from easy to give an advice. Everyone must compatible.
look for his niche in the dealership. It has a lot to do with
Responsible and operational work, high quality standards,
and
the strong sides of the beginner. The conditions to start
unique and carefully designed collections keeps it in great
a business today are neither better nor worse than they
request in the amber jewellery market. Of course, there
were 20 years ago. To keep the enterprise afloat, one
have been different good or not very bright situations
must work purposefully and coherently.
over those 20 years. But business means the battle for survival in the broadest meaning and only the strongest endure. “Amber by Mazukna” is among them.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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THE COLLECTION “JEWELLERY TOP 10” AT THE X ANNIVERSARY INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW “AMBER TRIP” 2013
10
victory
Report by Dr. Jurgita LUDAVICIENE
T
he “Amber Trip” exhibition has been held for already ten years. No doubt, the emergence of this event was accompanied by high hopes, expectations and ambitions. One of the most intriguing ambitions was to exhibit an artistic program
alongside with the commercial exposure and producers’ profiles. This led to the emergence of the thematic competitions for artists, where the jewellery works not only from Lithuania but also from Estonia, the Netherlands, Greece, France, Germany and Finland were exposed. This artistic component of the exhibition has become an important part and an additional object of attraction for visitors, who each year were able to observe the implementation of a variety of topics by a number of authors from different countries by means of jewellery. On the tenth year of existence of the exhibition, the topic certainly has had to refer to the joyful fact that the “Amber Trip” has managed to maintain its existence. Thus, the number ten reminded that we have something to celebrate, however, the most important thing in the competition, namely the development of the contemporary jewellery, must not be forgotten. “No. 10. Victoria” suggested the authors turning to the jewellery of the Victorian period by transferring it to the modern forms; by touching the stempunk style; by recalling every Victoria met in their lives (since it is one of the more frequent feminine names around the world) and finally, by appealing to victory. Because after constant confronting and overcoming difficulties, the ten-year anniversary is surely a victory. The competition involved forty-nine authors from Latvia, Lithuania, Russia, Germany, Finland and other countries who provided the original interpretations of the topic. Nevertheless, as it was expected, most of the authors associated jewellery objects with their own personal experiences – victories or defeats. It is obvious that the historical digression or the desire to follow the latest trends in the world of jewellery attracted much less artists. Ruta Nicajiene represented the steampunk style, meanwhile Eeeva Wornell associatively linked her work with the Victorian mourning jewellery. In some works, the artists invoked the pop-culture imagery, which in combination with amber, considered to be sacral in Lithuania, created irony in works; others used non-traditional materials; yet other works focused on the technology and the combination of amber with titanium or enamel. However, the clear leader among the authors failed to be found: the competition of the year 2013 showed that most of the first ten works, i. e. the finalists’ works are of a similar artistic and technical level. Therefore, it was reflected in the selection of prizemen: the first two places were shared by Rasma Puspure (Latvia) and Dite Dilginiene (Lithuania), who managed to combine the craft mastery and non-traditional materials in their works. The third place was occupied by Nauris Nashlenas (Lithuania) and special diplomas were awarded to Yuriy Bilkov ir Yuriy Velikotskij (Russia), Ela Pavinskiene (Lithuania), and Gerhard Helmer (Germany).
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
1st place winner RASMA PUSPURE, Latvia, “Where it all begins” Win free place in the international Baltic jewellery show “Amber Trip” 2014
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT 1st place winner DITE DILGINIENE, Lithuania, “Happy End“ Win free place in the international Baltic jewellery show “Amber Trip” 2014
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
3rd place winner NAURIS NASLENAS, Lithuania, “Dependence” Win free place in the international Baltic jewellery show “Amber Trip” 2014
Special prize JURIJ BYKOV, Russia
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Special prize JURIJ VELIKOTSKIJ, Russia, “Winner“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Special prize ELA PAVINSKIENE, Lithuania
Special prize RAMUNE JUDAITE–MISEVICIENE, Lithuania, “Sunflowers“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT VIKTORIA VENCLOVAITE, Lithuania, “Overcome the disease of love“
UGNE BLAZYTE, Lithuania, “Moment“
DANAS TAMASAUSKAS, Lithuania, “Spring“
RUTA NIJACIENE, Lithuania, “Steambout“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
KESTUTIS STANAPEDIS, Lithuania
JORIS MAKACINAS, Lithuania
ELEN JANKOVSKAJA, Lithuania, “Royal“
JOLANTA STRUMSKYTE, Lithuania, “That Sweet Word Freedom“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT IRMA GEDRIMAITE, Lithuania, “Amber lenses“
DOVILE VALUZYTE, Lithuania, “Day and night“, “Game for two“
DARIUS RIMEIKA, Lithuania), “Victory“
JUSTINA BUKANTAITE, Lithuania, “Light“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
GINTA ZABOROVSKA, Latvia, “Fisherman’s Victor“ AUDRIUS GUDISAUSKAS, Lithuania, “Victoria 10 Watch“
DARIA POPOLITOVA, Estonia, “Breakthrough“
HANA CZARNY, Poland, “Experance“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT MIRVA INKILA, Finland, “Amor vinict omnia“
EWA WORNELL, Finland
MARI SYREN, Finland, “Memory of your hand“
MARTIN LEITNER, Austria, “Aquila Signum Victoria“
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
VICTORIA MUNZKER, Austria, “Blue Mauritius“
MARIELE DEBETHUNE, Spain, “Succinite“
MARIUSZ GLIWINSKI, Poland, “Win – don't kill“
JAN WISZNEWSKI, Poland
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT JEKATERINA SHABLAVINA, Russia, “Yellow square“
ANDRZEIJ PACAK, Poland, “The sweet taste of Victory“
SVAJUNAS UDRYS, Lithuania
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
VIRGINIJA ZVIRBLIENE, Lithuania
GRAZVYDAS KASPERAVICIUS, Lithuania, “Number One“
DEIMANTE ULEVICIENE, Lithuania
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IRMA SVETLAUSKIENE, Lithuania
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT NATALIJA CERESKEVICIENE, Lithuania
RAMUNAS BILINSKAS, Lithuania, “Some thoughts towards VICTORIA Secret"
ROMUALDAS INCIRAUSKAS, Lithuania, “I am Sorry“
MARIUS ZAKARAS, Lithuania, “Unending victory“
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
JEWELRY ART COMPETITION “NUMBER 10. VICTORIA” WINNERS WINNING PRIZES
I prize – Rasma Puspure (Latvia) and Dite Dilginiene (Lithuania) free place in the show “Amber Trip” 2014, the article about the author and advertising in the magazine “Baltic Jewelery News”
WOJCIECH MOKWINSKI, Poland
III prize – Nauris Nashlenas (Lithuania) free place in the international Baltic jewellery show “Amber Trip” 2014, an interview with the author in the magazine “Baltic Jewellery News”. The prizewinners also received diplomas and a yearly subscription of the magazine “Baltic Jewellery News”.
ALEXANDER KUZMIN, Russia, “Renaissance“
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A variety of amber products Amber DM
D.Miliaus UKI Mob.tel.: +37068759712, +37060613750 E-mail: d.miliausuki@yahoo.com www.amberdm.lt skype: dainius777xxx
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“5D”
JEWELLERY ART CONTEST XI INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW “AMBER TRIP” 12–15th March, 2014 Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE, Curator of the Competition
In
It is the 5D format of the cinema world.
the name of the International Baltic Jewellery show ‘Amber Trip’ we would like kindly invite
And what format is used in such a field as jewellery?
you to participate in the jewellery art contest
Everyone understands the same phrase in different ways,
“5D” that will be accompanying in the “Amber Trip” tak-
and especially artists. I hope that the perception or inter-
ing place in Vilnius on 12–15 March, 2014.
pretation of the 5D work presented by the authors in the contest will be a big surprise not only for the visitors, but
The aim of the competition is to present and promote
also for the participants.”
the most interesting achievements of the contemporary
Will be presented 3 winners prizes and 5 special
art of jewellery and to encourage artists to use jewellery
prizes – diploma:
as a mode of expression. Theme explanation by Maryte Gureviciene – the
I prize – free place in the international Baltic jewellery
chairperson of the Jury:
show “Amber Trip” 2015, the article about the author and
“Everyone is well aware of 3 dimensions. Each author
advertising in the magazine “Baltic Jewelery News”.
interprets the additional two dimensions in his/her own
II prize – free place in the international Baltic jewel-
way, which, I believe, will provide the contest work with
lery show “Amber Trip” 2015, the article about the author
originality and the author – with the pleasure to puzzle
in the magazine “Baltic Jewelery News”.
his/her brain during the creation process. Jewellery, ob-
III prize – free place in the international Baltic jewel-
jects, etc. can be submitted for the contest.
lery show “Amber Trip” 2015, an interview with the au-
Description of the 5D cinema:
thor in the magazine “Baltic Jewelery News”.
5D is a well known 3D (three-dimensional view) com-
The prizewinners will also receive diplomas and a year-
plemented by the special effects, such as soap bubbles,
ly subscription of the magazine “Baltic Jewellery News”.
smoke, thunder, agility, the platform synchronically moving with the view (moving floor), imitation of wind and
PRESS PATRONAGE
rain, the rats’ effect (additional movement in the foot
Exclusive magazine for the Jewellery business in the
area), special audio equipment, etc.
Baltic Region “Baltic Jewellery News“
5D format is a totally different technology/tradition of
We are proud to present you the gifted and original
displaying/viewing the movie, therefore 5D cinema is of-
jewellery artists of the Baltic Sea Region and the other
ten referred to as an amusement. 5D cinema/amusement
countries in our Jewellery Show. At the moment over 200
allows submerging into the oasis of unforgettable feelings
different Jewellery artists from Lithuania, Russia, Latvia,
and sensations, to feel the flight and fall, to completely re-
Poland, Estonia, Germany, Finland, Norway and Sweden
alistically experience a variety of emergency situations, to
are invited to participate in this Open Contest. We are
get acquainted with the population of the Earth and other
also always open for cooperation with new talented artist
planets. Special 3D glasses highlights the reality effect of
from the region.
the film, the view seems to come to life and you become the main character of the film. More › www.ambertrip.com, www.balticjewellerynews.com
www.balticjewellerynews.com
28
“5D”
INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW “AMBER TRIP” 2014 APPLICATION FORM Name: Surname: Address: City: Postal code: Country: Phone: E-mail, www: I agree that photo of my art works would be used in the magazine ”Baltic Jewellery News” in the www.balticjewellerynews.com and www.ambertrip.com
✗  Please send back my pieces mail. Please send my jewelry products by mail. I agree to pay the shipping costs. At the same time I declare that I would not claim the organiser responsible in case of loss or damage to them during shipment.  Please send back my pieces by a courier company. I agree to pay the shipping costs. At the same time I declare that I would not claim the organiser responsible in case of loss or damage to them during shipment.
WORKS INVOICE Nr
Name and photo of work
Materials and Weight Techniques
Size (mm)
Insurance value (EUR)
1.
2.
3.
I agree with the contest rules and requirements specified in the Invitation.
Date, participant name, surname, signature
Thank You and Good Luck!
Year of creation
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
JEWELLERY ART CONTEST
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
JEWELLERY EXHIBITION PRADAS. BALTIC JEWELLERY. Jewellery exhibition PRADAS. Baltic jewellery in “Stiklas” gallery Utena (Lithuania), in 2013 July and August. A piece of Baltic jewellery can reveal your personality, attract success, give you strength or be a symbol of belonging to an old, strong and beautiful nation. For Lithuanians and in Baltic culture as a whole, jewellery used to have a meaning and took an important part in rituals. Every dash, every dot was referred to Earth, Sun, happiness, fertility, power. Shapes were simple but accurate. Bronze, later silver, was recognized as a symbol of power, luxury, status. Did you know that men wore more jewellery males than females? Or that, bells scares away evil spirits? PRADAS jewellery restores wisdom of thousands of years. Every shape is meaningful and powerful. http://www.pradasjewelry.com
Source of information › ttp://www.kulturautenoje.lt
REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Vilnius Official language Lithuanian Currency Lithuanian litas (LTL); 1 EUR – 3.4528 LTL Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 65 200 km 2 Population (2012) 2 979 000 Government Parliamentary republic President Dalia Grybauskaite Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevicius GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 15 931 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 83.7% Lithuanians, 16.30% others Largest cities Vilnius 542 932 Latvia Kaunas 336 912 Klaipėda 177 812 Lithuania Kaliningrad Region
Poland
Belarus
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBERMART – the 14th International Amber Fair
M
Report by AMBERMART Press Office
ore than 150 Polish and international companies will present their products, mainly amber and silver jewellery and valuables, at the 14th
AMBERMART International Amber Fair. The Fair is open to the general public so that the work of Pomerania’s jewellery makers can be seen not only by buyers from the world over but also by the local community. We look forward to having you at AMBERMART, August 29–31, at the AMBEREXPO Exhibition & Conven tion Centre in Gdansk. “We expect companies from Lithuania and Poland, with mainly amber and silver, but also with coloured gemstones, plus artists with original jewellery,” says Ewa Rachon, Project Director of AMBERMART and AMBERIF. In 2012, the Fair had a footfall of more than 3000 visitors from 30 countries, mainly from the EU but also from China, Russia and Arab countries. Importantly, the attendance of US buyers was improved. We hope that this year the visitor numbers will be even higher. AMBERMART is a meeting opportunity for manufacturers and the international buyers, who come to re-stock after the summer season with
Jewellery by Jacek Ostrowski
a view to the December holiday sales peak. “The beginning of autumn is trade exhibition season both in Poland
www.balticjewellerynews.com
32
sion on the ways to make jewellery based on appealing designs including silver, coloured gemstones and Baltic amber. Trade visitors who wish to expand their amber knowledge can attend the Understanding Amber Training Course held by the International Amber Association. It is a fee-based course and pre-registration applies. As in previous years, the items on display will include the ever-popular exhibition of fossil resin samples and their imitations from Gabriela Gierłowska’s Collection. At the Amber Laboratory you can have your amber identified by the experts of the International Amber Association and the researchers from the Polish Academy of Sciences’ Museum of the Earth and the Gdansk University of Technology. The Life in the Amber Forest display will launch the educational exhibition at the new seat of the University of Gdansk Museum of Amber Inclusions, At the “Ambermart” show
Faculty of Biology (ul. Wita Stwosza 59, Gdansk). As always, AMBERMART will also feature a mini art gallery with painting, drawing, graphics and ceramics from the artists of Poland’s region of Pomerania. The third edition of the Mariacka Street Festival – this time under the banner of: Mariacka in Bloom – promises to be truly remarkable. On Saturday, August 31, when
and abroad. This is when many companies travel to present
AMBERMART closes, its spirit of art and culture will move
their products at jewellery trade shows in Italy, France, the
to Mariacka Street, to the organic scenery of one of the
UK or Hong Kong, but some of them arrange their meet-
most beautiful streets of old Gdansk where many amber
ings here in Gdansk, which is a source of extreme satisfac-
studios and galleries are located. From 17:00 hrs onwards,
tion to us and it is for them that we prepare a welcoming
almost each townhouse entrance terrace (perron) will fea-
milieu,” comments AMBERMART’s Project Director.
ture concerts, art previews, workshops and meetings with
Like AMBERIF, AMBERMART is included in Poland’s
artists. We invite you to this event on behalf of Mariacka
Ministry of Economy programme to promote the jewel-
Street’s hosts and the project’s partners: the International
lery and amber industry, under the Innovative Economy
Amber Association and the MTG SA Gdansk International
Operational Programme (IE OP): Promotion of the Polish
Fair Co.
Economy on International Markets.
The honorary auspices over AMBERMART are held
“As part of this Programme, AMBERMART 2013
by Poland’s Ministry of Economy, the Marshal of the
will feature the public’s favourite jewellery and fashion
Pomorskie (Pomerania) Region and the Mayor of Gdansk.
shows,” Ewa Rachon reveals. The public is also invited to
AMBERMART’s partners are: the International Amber
vote on the Best Set of Amber Jewellery – in the www.
Association, the Pomeranian Skilled Crafts Chamber
amber.com.pl and www.ambermart.pl online contest
of SMEs and the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber
(voting from 3 to 25 August).
Commerce.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBERMART participants can take part in the seminar on Amber, Silver and Diamonds, to open a discus-
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
In Legnica
WE
BREATHE with silver M
Report by Monika SZAPTOWICZ ay in Legnica (Poland) every year is the time
Over 200 jewellery design devotees from the coun-
for artistic jewellery. On 17 and 18 of May
tries of Europe and three other continents (i. a. USA,
there was celebrated the finale of the Legnica
Venezuela, Australia, Lebanon) came to Legnica to take
SILVER Festival, the most important weekend of the
part in the festival's finale, as did the representatives of
one of the largest contemporary art jewellery overviews
the most prominents Polish goldsmithing centers – Tricity,
in Europe. Seventeen exhibitions were inaugurated on
Warsaw, Lodz and Cracow.
th
th
those two days, as well as the film screenings, happen-
Walking through the “Legnica silverland”, or in other
ings, a seminar, a concert and the meetings with artists
words, the official 2013 Legnica Silver Festival's finale, be-
in an intimate atmosphere of the recurring Silver party.
gan on Friday afternoon (May 17th) with the private view of
The Contestation – Revolt – Change conference benefited
Holownia – showcasing the entries received but not quali-
from a full audience, with a number of lectures by the
fied for the main exhibition. In the Silver Gallery “Under
academics and artists and the screenings of the films on
the Quail’s Basket” Dorota Gulbierz presented herself as
the subject of revolt as a part of the Silver screen cycle.
a “retromaniac” by nature, fashion choice and her body of works, confirming the true unity of the creator and the creation. At the next stop, in the Satyrykon Gallery, Tabea Reulecke and Maarija Niinemägi, co-authors (together with the Australian Teresa Lane) of the “Prince Charming & Palace of Happiness” exhibition, were greeted by a living and breathing “prince charming”, to their great surprise. His presence was yet another proof that in Legnica all the artist's dreams come true, which can be also witnessed by the young goldsmiths of AU+ group (Marcin Bogusław,
Bartosz
Chmielewski,
Filip Jackowski, Michał Wysocki), who exhibited their joint project in Niello Gallery, for the third time at the SILVER Festival. The festival's stars, Philip Sajet and Ulrich Reithofer,
presented
impressing
artistic
output and universal creativity in Copper Museum.
Janjaap Luijt, The Netherlands Grand Prix of the Minister of Culture and National Heritage – 2345 EUR+1 kg of silver, Poland
www.balticjewellerynews.com
34
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Laura Bradshaw-Heap, Ireland 3rd Award of the Mayor of the Legnica City – 700 EUR + 1 kg of silver, Poland
Lena Lindahl, Sweden Award of Polish Jewellery – advertisement in Polish Jewellery catalogue
In main seat of the Gallery of Art were presented two exhibitions: the exhibition of the young and promising designers from all over the world, chosen by Dr. Maria Cristina Bergesio for the Preziosa Young international competition organized by Le Arti Orafe, Florence, and finally the International Jewellery Competition REVOLT. As always, the emotions ran high at the opening of the competition show. The names of the winners and the runners-up (till then kept secret) were finally revealed at the Saturday's private view. The total of awards came to c. 9500 EUR (cash, 5kg of granulated silver, a stand at the Inhorgenta fair in Munich and one at the Jubinale fair, Statuette 6 Ounces of SIX Group). The granulated silver (founded by the KGHM Polska Miedź S.A.) was presented packed in a “Molotov cocktail”, to the joy (and the fear) of the winners and the public. After the culmination the majority exhibitions of the Festival were open of the beginning of the summer
The Festival is now a history. The seventeen events,
holidays. Also the International Baltic Jewellery Show
housed in eight different exhibiting spaces of the Legnica
“Amber Trip” join the Legnica Festival. In the framework
Old Town, showcased over 1500 objects of contemporary
of the Festival were presented after – contest exhibition
jewellery and design by a few hundred artists. The pieces
“Number 10. Victoria” prepared on occasion of the 10 th
were displayed in unique arrangements and settings and
anniversary of Amber Trip. It was presented in Legnica
all the exhibitions were accompanied by the catalogues
from 11th June till 24th June 2013.
documenting the artworks presented.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery is more
than just decoration Report by Martyna KWAK
B
Collection
“Ajouré”
orn in Poland and currently based in the UK, Joanna Fronczak is a young emerging jewellery designer and maker. Living in two countries and
with a passion for travel her diverse designs reflect this
“The Weather Brooch”
rich experience. This year Joanna was selected as a winner in The “TREND–SCOUT Platform”, which helps to find one’s way
Joanna has just launched her new collection “Ajouré”,
in today’s designer tangle. Each year the Platform is ena-
which is inspired by the organic structure of the Chinese
bling one young designer with an interesting, novel and
lantern plant. The fascinating patterns and shapes Joanna
fresh outlook on jewellery and jewellery design to show-
observes in flowing water also inspire these elegant and
case his or her works.
sophisticated creations.
Everything seems to be inspiring for Joanna and as of
The main focus of the collection is an interchange-
many people she also thinks that the best designer is the
able pendant. This 2 in 1 piece can be worn together or
nature which is creating excellent and unique structures,
separately. The character of the pieces best describes the
patterns as well as colour combinations.
designer herself: “Since jewellery is more than just decoration, the interactive elements create a link between the piece and the wearer, who has opportunity to recreate them as desired.” One of her price winning piece called “The Weather Brooch” gives possibility to the wearer to change the weather on the brooch according to their desire. Available weather: sunny, cloudy, lightings and rainbow. To get so intense colours Joanna created this brooch using anodising aluminium method. Beside decorative features this piece is engaging the wearer and is fun to wear. Joanna is passionate jewellery designer, which likes creating innovative pieces. She appreciates evolving herself with new challenges, technologies and methods which allows her to improve her skills further. She loves colours and that is why she is trying to incorporate them in different forms in her pieces. Her pieces contain silver, gold, anodised aluminium, enamel, precious and semi-precious stones. All pieces are designed and hand finished by her. She adores pieces which beside its decorative fea-
Joanna Fronczak
tures are engaging the wearer with a piece and are fun to wear.
More › www.joannafronczak.com
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36
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
The summary of
JUBINALE 2013 Report by JUBINALE Press Office
O
nce again, Cracow has hosted many prominent exhibitors and buyers from Poland and abroad. During these three days, 2156 visitors arrived to
visit the show, including 1895 Buyers strictly related to the industry. 110 Exhibitors presented a diverse offer, which included almost all segments of the industry: gold and silver jewellery, watches, precious stones, designers' jewellery, lifestyle jewellery, fashion jewellery, as well as gifts, packaging, tools and marketing solutions. The first two days of the exhibition were intended for jewellery and watch industry members only. These days were full of negotiations, commercial activities and exchange of experiences. The third day of the event was open also to general public. Tourists and residents of
At the JUBINALE traid fair
Cracow had a unique opportunity to see and buy jewellery and gifts. They could also take an advantage of free
Association, International Amber Association and Polish
experts' advice about the repair, maintenance and pricing
Craft Association.
of jewellery and precious stones.
Last edition of JUBINALE brought a sigh of optimism
Designers' Trends platform was very popular among
among jewellery companies. Even though statistically this
the visitors. This years' Trend Skaut of Polish Jewellery
year there were 5% less exhibitors – we all know that
laureate and a graduate of the School of Jewellery in
many companies are still facing difficulties related to cur-
Birmingham in the UK, Joanna Fronczak, presented her
rent economic situation – the attendance of buyers in-
works there too. She presented collection “The Ajoure“.
creased by 30% compared to last year. To the delight of
This year, during Gala Exhibitors' Evening, the honours
all involved, the increase in the number of guests also re-
and statues of the Golden Dragon from the Organizer
sulted in the amount of the purchases. This fact can be
were awarded to the following companies: JUBILEX,
clearly accepted as a success of the fair!
TADO SILVER and AMBER APPLE.
The next edition of JUBINALE Trade Fair will take place
The sixth edition of JUBINALE was held under the
from 5th to 7th of June 2014 at the brand new exhibition
patronage of the Marshal of the Malopolska Region, the
grounds – International Exhibition and Convention Centre
President of Cracow and the President of Gdansk. The
Expo Krakow.
industry patronage was covered by Jewellery Experts
in the Polish market – Summary of the year 2012 Report by Jolanta TOKARCZYK MANUFACTURE OF JEWELLERY AND RELATED PRODUCTS
Nearly half of the products originated from developing countries – we purchased there watches and clocks valued to 34 548 538 EUR.
In the end of 2012, as many as 4010 enterprises were involved in manufacture of jewellery and related products –
The largest customers of pearls and stones, as in the
thus pearl treatment, stone polish as well as jewellery man-
case of watches, proved to be the EU countries, which pur-
ufacture from precious and non-precious metals, except
chased from Poland the articles valued to 1 555 060 416
artificial jewellery – as the data of Central Statistical Office
EUR all in all. Export to Germany, Great Britain, Belgium,
shows. Most companies (over 900) had their business in
Czech Republic and Italy dominated. For pearls imported
Pomerania, which is not surprising taking into account ac-
within 12 months of the previous year, Polish entrepreneurs
cess to the natural jewellery material being there, i.e. am-
paid 334 777 147 EUR. From developing countries natural and cultured pearls were brought for 92 838 731 EUR.
ber. 869 of the companies ran small and family businesses, and 32 entrepreneurs employed from 10 to 49 employees.
The value of imports of gold in the solid, semi-manufactured form or powder came to 76 768 518 EUR in the
WATCH, CLOCK AND JEWELLERY RETAIL SALE IN SPECIALISED STORES
three quarters of the previous year. The export value of gold in the three quarters of 2012 amounted to 505 914 933
EUR.
The number of companies selling
watches and jewellery in 2012 was about one-fourth less than the numPhoto by Waskoll Paris
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
WATCHES and jewellery
ber of manufacturers of those products. For comparison: last year 4010
REPUBLIC OF POLAND
entities engaged in manufacture of jewellery products in the whole
EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Official language Polish Currency Złoty (PLN); 1 EUR – 4.1885 PLN Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km 2 Population (2012) 38 273 582 Government Parliamentary republic Latvia President Bronisław Komorowski Prime Minister Donald Tusk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 16 527 EUR Lithuania Ethnic groups Kaliningrad Region 91.6% Poles Belarus 8.4% others Largest cities Poland Warsaw 1 716 855 Krakov 755 546 Ukraine Lodz 739 832
Poland, while only 3158 entities engaged in retail sale.
FOREIGN TRADE Currently available data on foreign trade covers the whole year 2012. In the period from January to December 2012, export of Polish watches closed with a total of 24 338 774 EUR. Three-fourth of Polish watches reached consumers in the European Union. Among the countries of Central and Eastern Europe, the largest number of watches manufactured in Poland was purchased by Russians and Ukrainians, while Germany, France and Italy dominated in the group of EU countries. The value of import of watches during the three quarters of the previous year amounted to 89 611 576 EUR.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
40
ROBIS Robert Bienko
Jewellery Silver Jewellery findings Machinery and tools Tel.: +48 603 114 132, +370 616 477 86 E-mail robertbienko@wp.pl
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber WILL GO ON! Mining complex of the Amber Combine is ready for trouble-free operation within the next decades. Successful combine modernisation is coming to an end.
Report by Svetlana KALININA
In
July 2013, four 30-ton trawls, accompanied by traffic police cars, travelled down narrow roads of the Kaliningrad region to deliver a
huge component for completing a modernization of the Amber Combine. The plant has not received such a massive cargo for more than 20 years. Four huge parts with dimensions of 4x8 meters and weighing 16 tons each. The delivery required two special railway platforms; the extraordinary load surprised even experts-transporters. A new base for a walking excavator has arrived to the Amber Combine from the factory. The production engineering service SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” has
ECOLOGICAL CLEANLINESS at the amber extraction is also ensured by using
SEA WATER FOR STRIPPING OPERATIONS. ONE SUCH EXCAVATOR pulls out over 2 MILLION TONS
Walking excavator ESHE 10/70. It is a giant machine: its crane reach is 70 metres, bucket capacity – 10 cubic metres
of mined rock per season.
proceeded to the end of overhaul of the walking excava-
powerful ESHE which was thoroughly repaired last year.
tor ESHE 10/70. It is a giant machine: its crane reach is
Extraction of amber continues.
70 metres, bucket capacity – 10 cubic metres. The amber
S.Y. Butorin, a chief engineer, has shared the details,
mine operates only two such excavators, both consum-
“Negotiations and search for technical feasibilities of the
ing electricity instead of conventional hydrocarbon fuels.
oversized component transportation from Ukraine to
Ecological cleanliness at the amber extraction is also en-
Kaliningrad took a few months. The base weight is about
sured by using sea water for stripping operations. One
45 tons. Installation of it on the ESHE will take approxi-
such excavator pulls out over 2 million tons of mined rock
mately two months. We are also awaiting the delivery of
per season. While ESHE 10/70 is undergoing overhaul,
a new 70-metre excavator arm which should be much
all mining operations are conducted by using the other
easier to transport. After the ESHE 10/70 is restored to
www.balticjewellerynews.com
44
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT Purchase and delivery of THE
NEW BASE FOR ESHE 10/70 ALLOWS DISCUSSING THE FINAL STEP IN THE PROCESS OF MODERNIZATION. This means that the mining complex WILL BE READY for trouble-free operation IN THE NEXT 15–20 YEARS. service, execution of a plan will become much easier for
SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” regularly runs a
the Amber Combine; a volume of stripping operations and
scheduled maintenance and purchases new mining equip-
productivity will increase.”
ment. In 2012, the plant almost completely refreshed
In the future, the plant is planning a scheduled re-
primary equipment of the mining complex and resolved
placement of stripping and mining equipment, replace-
technical gaps accumulated over the past decades.
ment of pipes, and acquisition of new dredging pumps.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
45
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
Warmth of the Solar Stone in
“ALATYR 2013”
T
Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE his year, the international biennale of author
of course, artistic reflections of “Aqua Terra” in various
works from amber “Alatyr” celebrates a double
forms of amber have really left the warmest impressions.
anniversary – the 5 event in 10 years. The theme
Irina Toropova – President of the Jury, Deputy director
this year jewellery competition is “Aqua Terra”. 105 artists
for research of Kaliningrad Amber Museum, art expert,
from the Great Britain, Germany, Denmark, Italy, Latvia,
Candidate of pedagogic sciences, Kaliningrad, Russia said:
Lithuania, Poland, Portugal, Russia, France have sended
“Amber more and more often becomes a material for the
241 works.
high art, excellent means of realization of artistic images.
Comparing
th
previous
exhibitions,
Juris
Gagainis,
The theme of the exhibition – competition – “Aqua Terra”
jury member, professor, head of the Metal and Design
is related with the fact that UNESCO announced the year
Department in the Latvian Academy of Arts, said: “in
2013 an International Year of Water Cooperation which
2011, in the fourth biennale, there were much more of
is highly important for the Baltic Sea accessed by many
kitsch and “heavy” works overloaded with details; this
countries. The artists faced a task to convey the essence
year, works are “lighter”, but not all the authors succeed-
of these elements – the Earth and the Water – by symbolic
ed to avoid overloading their articles. It is necessary to
images.
work more carefully with amber, as the stone is very active
Other jury members: Pierre–Marie Bernard, Jeweler,
itself and it will always be “contending” with everything
Honored President of the State Federation of Artistic
that is close to it. In general, the exhibition has made me a
Crafts and Creativity, director of the committee and
good impression. Not only objects, but also jewellery and
president of creative commission “Franceclat”, Paris,
conceptual works were presented.”
France; Juris Gagainis, professor, head of the Metal and
High quality organization of the exhibition, direct com-
Design Department in the Latvian Academy of Arts,
munication, cosy atmosphere, professionally coordinated
Riga, Latvia; Laima Keriene, artist, professor of jewelry
actions of the whole team of the amber museum, and,
and small statuary in Vilnius Academy of Arts, member
Nomination “Creation of artistic image” – 1st place – Manuel Vilhena, Portugal Brooch “#34”, 602 EUR
Grand Prix – Mette Saabye, Denmark Rings, 914 EUR
www.balticjewellerynews.com
46
jects, teacher in the Vilnius Academy of Arts, in Lithuania,
Simma, designer, architect, design professor of Insbruck
member of the Russian Creative Union of Artists, member
University, Bolzano, Italy; Natalia Petrova, artists, member
of the World Amber Council, Gdansk, Poland)
of Moscow Union of Artists, Moscow, Russia; Giedymin
Considered works the Jury decided to give following awards:
Jablonski Artist, art theoretic, curator of international proGrand Prix
› Mette Saabye, Denmark Rings
Nomination “Skill”
› 1st place – Doris Gabrielli, Italy Bracelet
› 2nd place – Zhanna Lopatkina, Russia
› 3rd place – Tatiana Rusinovich, Russia
Nomination “Creation of artistic image”
› 1st place – Manuel Vilhena, Portugal Brooch “#34"
› 2nd place – Dorota Sokolowska, Poland
› 3rd place – Pawel Kaczynski, Poland
Nomination “Innovation”
› 1st place – Markus Fruehauf, Italy. Series of brooches
› 2nd place – Wojciech Kalandyk, Poland
› 3rd place – Magda Szadkowska, Poland
Nomination “Music in stone”, dedicated to the 140
th
› 1st place Igor Komov and Ekaterina Lemm, Russia Panel “Twilight” › 2nd place – Alexander Sorokin and Anastasia Kochubei, Russia
anniversary of Sergey
› 3rd place – Ruta Nicajenie, Lithuania
Rakhmaninov
Nomination “Skill” – 1st place – Doris Gabrielli, Italy Bracelet, 602 EUR
Nomination “Music in stone”, 1st place Igor Komov
and Ekaterina Lemm, Russia Panel “Twilight”, 602 EUR
Nomination “Innovation” – 1st place – Markus Fruehauf, Italy. Series of brooches, 602 EUR
www.balticjewellerynews.com
47
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
of Lithuanian Union of Artists, Vilnius, Lithuania; Benno
KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT
ART AND INDUSTRY COLLEGE HAS GRADUATED THE FIRST IN THE REGION AMBER JEWELLERS The graduated experts were immediately “grabbed up” by employers. This year, for the first time in the region, the College issued diplomas to 25 amber jewellers. “Last year, we managed to re-equip the College, so, today, the school is well placed to support the academic activity,” says Dmitry Chemakin, minister of industrial policy, development of business and trade of the Government of Kaliningrad region. The next step, according to the Minister, is expansion of the College. “As part of both the state programme and the Federal special purpose programme, design of the additional floor is completed,” has clarified Chemakin. The need for additional floor was proved by Director of College, Svetlana Petropavlovskaya. As she states, the school might supply the entire region with staff, however, the current tight spaces make it impossible. She has noted that the studies in Kaliningrad attract applicants from all over Russia. “Having a third floor – is our dream; then everything ours is completely different,”
Prepared by › http://kaliningrad.ru
hopefully emphasises Petropavlovskaya.
KALININGRAD OBLAST (RUSSIAN FEDERATION) Administrative center Kaliningrad Official language Russian Currency Ruble (RUB); 1 EUR – 40.6910 RUB Time zone (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 15 100 km 2 Population (2013) 954 978 Government Federal semi-presidential republic Governor Nikolay Tsukanov President Vladimir Putin GDP (PPP) Per capita 15 570 EUR Ethnic groups Latvia 86.4% Russians Lithuania 13.6% Others Largest cities Kaliningrad Oblast Kaliningrad 431 100 (Russian Federation) Chernyakhovsk 51 771 Belarus Sovetsk 42 619 Poland
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50
BELARUSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery holding company
“CRYSTAL HOLDING” is demonstrating impressive economic performance
T
hus, at the online conference on BELTA website,
were running a profitable operation and unconditionally
activities of a unified retail chain of the jewel-
fulfilled their settlement obligations with regard to budg-
lery holding company have been evaluated by
et, contractors, and payment of wages. For instance, in
Aleksandr Rimarovich, Head of the Regulatory Control
January-March of this year, the growth rate of production
Department of the General Directorate for Precious
at Gomel PO “Crystal”, compared to the same period of
Metals and Precious Stones under the Ministry of Finance
last year, was 103.5% in comparable prices, and the turn-
of the Republic of Belarus.
over of “Belyuvelirtorg” increased by 58.7% (including 14
The jewellery holding company “Crystal Holding” was
stores transferred to it by JSC “Gomel PO “Crystal”).
established on the basis of three public organizations in
A unified retail chain of the jewellery holding was
jewellery industry: JSC “Gomel PO “Crystal” (managing
found. A combined share of holding participants in the
company), JSC “Belyuvelirtorg,” and
total jewellery sales was 33%in the
CJSC “Belgran.” It was incorporated
domestic market in 2012 (in 2011
in September 2012. Currently, the
– 28%). The share of holding par-
holding company is dynamically de-
ticipants’ products in the turnover
veloping and, despite the relatively
of the unified retail chain increased
short period of operation, demon-
from 49.3% in 2012 to 52.1% in the
strating an impressive economic
first quarter of 2013.
performance.
Products of “Crystal Holding”
For example, in 2012, the volume
are in demand not only domesti-
of industrial production at Gomel
cally but also for export. Jewellery of
PO “Crystal” was 40,625,299 EUR
Gomel PO “Crystal” is sold in Russia,
(growth rate at comparable prices
Lithuania, Kazakhstan, Ukraine; dia-
by 2011 – 123.4%); revenues from
mond products – in Belgium, Israel,
product sales – 56,176,099 EUR
Russia, Armenia, and the United
(168%); profit from product sales
States.
– 11,475,861 EUR (636,7%); net
In 2012, Gomel PO “Crystal”
profit – 9,761,860 EUR (606,6%).
manufactured 234,558 pieces of di-
In JSC “Belyuvelirtorg”, sales vol-
amonds weighing 18,818.24 carats
ume at current prices for the year
worth 11,044,523 EUR.
of 2012 amounted to 22,690,649
EUR, or 170.7% by 2011, net profit – 1,782,107 EUR (705.7%). In the first quarter of 2013, organizations of the jewellery holding company continued to increase the volume of production and sales,
“Gomel PO Kristall” jewellery Prepared by › www.belta.by
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51
3
3
knots
wishes
“3
knots wind's” jewelry is special. I was im-
ducers’ trade mission to Japan with support of Latvian
pressed by their bright, relaxing point of
Investment and Development Agency from May 30 till
view with a bit of mysticism. The company's
June 6. We had great opportunity to present our jewels
main markets are in Latvia, France and UK. Many pieces
during Latvian Design days event. All days were very busy
have travelled to Germany, Switzerland, Finland, Norway,
we had meetings with buyers from large department
Russia, Hong Kong, Canada, USA, Singapore, Japan and
stores and retail store chains in Nagoya, Tokyo, Kioto and
Australia.
Osaka. The mission was successful after trade mission we have representative in Japan with 20 jewelries stores in
Motto:”Wear the jewellery and on each engraved
largest cities.“, – Sigita Truskane said.
wind knot think of a wish, and soon this wish will become
You’ll present new collection in this September,
true. Or, you can write this wish on a piece of paper for
what is it?
future generations, put it into the bottle and let it float
It's jewellery collection “Walk”
into the sea.”
Indian summer. Calm and sunny afternoon. Walk. The
We are talking with Sigita Truksane, the creator and
Riga Quite Centre saturated with Art Nouveau architec-
designer of “3 wind knot” jewellery
ture pearls. Cup of aromatic drink in a lovely cafe. Besides
Is it really a successful business can be affected
good friend, loved ones and talks. Or just book. Deep
by the legend? I've read about it on your website
peace and relaxation. Also this is Riga.
The inspiration to create jewellery, we have from all of the positive things around us. The origins of our jewellery we are founding in the legend “Three knots of Wind". After finishing his seamanship training, the apprentice was gifted from his master, a magical rope of three knots and its instructions for use. With this gift, you will be able to be the ruler of the seas and the winds. When you need wind, untie the first knot and a fair wind will blow. If the second knot is untied, a storm will blow, and will only stop by untieing the third knot. Wherever the captain went on the high seas, he was blessed with good weather, thanks to his rope of three knots. With the help of his magic rope, the captain conquered evil and married a princess. I believe, that often we can reach our dreams and goals easier and faster if we have a specific item or talisman that has meaning for us which we value. This item reminds us about our dreams, inspires and motivates us to move forward and achieve them. Jewels and gifts that inspires us to reach our dreams and brings love, joy and many miracles in our life. This year “3 wind knots” together with Latvian interi-
MOTTO: ”Wear the jewellery and on each engraved wind knot THINK OF A WISH, AND
or and design companies with Latvian Investment Agency support visited potential collaboration partners in Kaunas and Vilnius, Lithuania as well as in Japan. “We had great
SOON THIS WISH WILL BECOME TRUE. OR, you can write this wish on a piece of paper for future generations, PUT IT INTO THE BOTTLE AND LET IT FLOAT INTO THE SEA.”
opportunity to see local fashion and jewellery tendencies visiting partners and retail stores where we had meeting with their representatives. The meetings where successful and now we are collaborating with 2 companies in Lithuania. We participated at Latvian design item pro-
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53
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
What is your mood? Joy, peace, love, carelessness, enjoyment, friendship, happiness, success, freedom, fantasy, beauty, journey, secret, challenge... Description: 1m long 100% silk necklace, bracelet, hair band with colourful Art Nouveau embroideries and pendant with 3 wind knots logo. What is guaranteed by the company's success and prosperity in General? Not everyone, after all, finds inspiration in legends. Innovation, thinking out of box, internal motivation, new export markets and hard work. We are rapidly expanding our activities worldwide and we are looking for “3 wind knots” jewellery agents, distributors or collaboration partners. Every jewel is different, where no two are alike and each has its own soul. Think of your wish and wear your jewel. Soon, very soon, your wishes will become true. Your words really sound like a legend, which I want to believe. But I have to give you one more pragmatic question: What's your opinion about Latvia jewellery market? It is my opinion that we do not have strong jewelry brands. Market is saturated with things that are imported from Poland, China also exclusive brands from different European countries. Jewelry shops are not opened for
REPUBLIC OF LATVIA
local artist works, because of it we are working with local fashion and design stores. Different story is with export
EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Riga Official language Latvian Currency Lats (LVL); 1 EUR – 0.6998 LVL Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 64 589 km 2 Population (2012) 2 217 053 Government Parliamentary republic President Andris Berziņs Prime Minister Valdis Dombrovskis GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 12 730 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) Estonia 62.1% Latvians 37.9 % others Latvia Largest cities Riga 706 000 Lithuania Liepaja 301 621 Kaliningrad Region Daugavpils 343 646
markets, they like things that we are making because jewels are different. We have several artists in Latvia who are developing own jewelry collections. But the number is very small.I can say that there are many jewelers who are working on private orders for specific jewels. Also we have many companies which niche is making of ancient jewelry replica. One niche is putting together jewelry supplies form China or other markets making different kind of accessories, the boom was 2 years ago, currently there are also 1–3 brands. And different h-made accessories form wood, leather, plastics ets. We do not concentrate on Latvia market.
Belarus
Poland
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54
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
We feel COMFORTABLE Interview of Angele JUODZEVICIENE with Vadim ANTONOV, Manger of Company “V&G Anton”
Once I asked the head of the
We believe that jewellery influ-
Assay Office of Estonia, Yelena
ences emotional and physical well-
Muhomedova, any interesting and
being.
promising jewellery companies,
made for a particular client and
she would recommend for an in-
being close to his heart, has much
terview – she called the name of
higher value than a mass produc-
Your company. So, what is inter-
tion. Who of us wouldn’t like to feel
esting and unique about You?
special!
A
customised
ornament,
We constantly produce something
Collection of our products is rep-
new. We have a small team, yet, a
resented in a wide range of styles
plenty of ideas. Each new theme can
– from classical to contemporary
be used to the best effect in main
shapes. Perfect quality of manufac-
types of articles and to compose a
ture, best gem inserts, and unique
collection. But we are short of hands.
Vadim Antonov
design make our jewellery a good
Custom orders dislocate us constantly
buy.
in terms of ideas. Therefore, we are always in search of
You can materialise your fantasies in various ways,
new solutions. Catching a cool design, in our opinion,
for example, from an image, picture that affected you in
might result in manufacture of a bucket of identical ar-
some publication, or from a sketch made by an artist. We
ticles, losing ourselves in mass production what is easier,
embody your idea in the metal and decorate with precious
nevertheless, every day, our small team meets new chal-
stones.
lenges. We don’t have time to be bored. People visit our workshop like a tailor for trying-on, several times. This is the way we achieve customised solutions. We take into account everything: height, weight, eye colour, and, of course, the purpose for which the article is manufactured. Together with clients, we find the best solution for them, thus, they may count upon exclusive products. Tell us what you are doing, what are You products? The Company “T&G ANTON” was found as the family one, and, for the past 12 years, we offer our services for the made-to-order jewellery.
Against the mass production, we always have things to do. PEOPLE LOOK FOR INDIVIDUALITY. They begin understanding that just a piece of gold on them is not enough.
IT MUST ALSO BE UNIQUE. www.balticjewellerynews.com
55
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Such offers make you think about
technical
The next step is insertion of jew-
feasibilities,
ellery in the metal and, finally, before
what are they like?
properly inserting and fixing gems,
We are constantly upgrading
you will need a final trying-on that
technically. We apply both a classi-
allows us to accurately complete the
cal method of production and new
work on your product.
technologies that support 3D. We How
have suitable equipment.
much
successful
are
you in the Estonian jewellery
We’ll tell you a little bit about
industry?
the manufacturing process which consists of several stages. First, we
We feel quite comfortable in our
take a drawing or any other image;
market. Most our products crush the
we get started and make a model of
idea of jewellery, as we apply non-
special non-metallic materials. We can insert stones into
standard solutions in technology, materials, shapes, and
it, try it on, feel, and see how the article fits you.
colours. Our customers often show delight and surprise.
While styling and trying the article on, we can make
As they say, “that couldn’t be true,” “it is difficult to
changes to the design. In fact, you create your dream by
imagine,” or, “we never saw the beat of it” ... “Never
yourself – we just help to make it come true.
thought this could be true,” and so on. The market in Estonia is the same as anywhere else. All counters are
We finish styling only after you make sure that this is
similar to each other. The competition is high. Products
exactly what you want to see on yourself
from major manufacturers worldwide. Very little of a real artistic design. Your plans for the future – do you see any mar-
REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA
ket growth prospects? Of course, we can see the prospects, we have a lot
EU, NATO Capital Tallinn Official language Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km 2 Population (2013) 1 286 540 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilve Prime Minister Andrus Ansip GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 17 117 EUR Ethnic groups 69.0% Estonians, 31.0 % others Largest cities Tallinn 416 144 Estonia Tartu 101 169 Narva 65 886
of ideas... We have a lack of professionals. We train ourselves. We observe the technological progress and apply new things. Against the mass production, we always have things to do. People look for individuality. They begin understanding that just a piece of gold on them is not enough. It must also be unique. This is a luxury and there is no need for walking around with the same rings.
Latvia
Lithuania Kaliningrad Region
Belarus
Poland
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56
– The home of gemstones The 29th edition of the INTERGEM, the international trade fair for gemstones, jewellery and gemstone objects is ready to take off from October 3rd – 6th 2013. Once again jewellers, goldsmiths and jewellery producers will be sure to find jewels at their best, with a vast variety ranging from gemstones to pearls, jewellery and technology. Highest quality and a widespread offer is the INTERGEM'S unique selling point.
Report by INTERGEM Press Office
“T
he INTERGEM is an interesting buying platform, especially for goldsmiths and jewellers”, says INTERGEM'S managing director
Kai-Uwe Hille. “Here you can find an unbelievable range of quality for every budget. It doesn’t matter if you're looking for one of a kind stones or calibrated ones for small scale series, you will definitely find them here”, Hille continues. Goldsmith master Franziska Kelz-Blank, a regular visitor of the INTERGEM confirms: “I always take
First-hand information
home millions of ideas for new jewellery creations. The INTERGEM is matchless.”
Idar-Oberstein is the world's gemstone capital. Gemstone expertise has been handed down from generation to generation and now worldwide leading companies are calling the region their home. This expertise is concentrated at the INTERGEM. Diamond cutting legend Sir Gaby Tolkowsky states: “This romantic place, right in the middle of Europe, where they have been cutting gemstones for over 500 years, is Europe's centre for gemstones and jewellery. Here you can find what I call “The key to Ali Baba's treasure chamber.“
Selling knowledge Especially know-how is brokered by the INTERGEM. Hille says: “Goldsmiths and jewellers will be able to sell their products better after visiting the INTERGEM. Here they can acquire valuable information and arguments first
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57
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
INTERGEM 2013
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Trends, Lifestyle, Design This year's motto “Trends, Lifestyle, Design“, is underlined by a trend lecture joined by professional models. Also the designer area is extended: visitors will be able to learn about the aesthetics of material in combination with new forms. Of course the show will include the professional photography studio for exhibitors and visitors, in which you can highlight your products and use the photos for your advertising. Last year's special “Best of INTERGEM“, which steers visitors to the INTERGEM'S highlights, is also continued. To sum it up: If you are working with gemstones, diamonds, pearls or jewellery – you should not miss the INTERGEM 2013. INTERGEM 2013 Thursday, 3 rd – Sunday, 6 th October Organizer Intergem Messe GmbH
hand. You will find it much easier to talk to your custom-
John-F.-Kennedy-Str. 9
ers.” International renowned gemstone expert Constantin
55743 Idar-Oberstein
Wild from Idar-Oberstein joins: “If we can pass on the fas-
Germany
cination, the effort and the adventure from the prospec-
Phone +49 (0) 6781 568 722 00
tion to the processing, every gemstone almost sells itself.
Fax +49 (0) 6781 568 722 72
The Message is: Stand out by owning an exceptional
office@intergem.de
gemstone.”
www.intergem.de
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58
market for gems and jewellery The Munich Show is Europe's leading trade
in China. In our talks to international gemstone exhibitors,
fair for minerals, fossils, gems and jewellery.
many spoke of quite interesting contacts but recognized
Last year 1270 exhibitors from 64 nations took
that it will take some more time in order to develop a
part in this business and networking event
powerful market in central China. For the mineral sector it
for beautiful stones. In 2013 Munich Show –
is a question of taste because Chinese collectors tend to
Mineralientage Munchen are celebrating 50
search for huge and optically interesting objects which is
years anniversary.
totally different from what western collectors are looking
A
for. All in all it was impressive to see what the organizers built up from nothing and we are looking forward to see bout the jewelry market in Germany and China,
CMGS developing in the next years. How do you assess the general situation in the
we are talking with Mr. Jens Rodel – marketing
gemstone market in Germany and worldwide?
manager of the Munich Show – Mineralientage
Worldwide market is influenced by three key factors:
Munchen. In May you were visited First China (Changsha)
Economic situation after the financial crisis, a general focus
Mineral & Gem Show, how do you evaluate this start?
on Asia and a short supply of raw material. The way to
As for many other industries, China will also be a huge
do business for many suppliers was much easier in grow-
market for minerals, gems and jewellery in the future.
ing countries like China than in Europe in the last years.
The organizers of CMGS therefore plan to early build up
Meanwhile the economic situation in western countries
a relevant platform situated in Changsha, the capital of
in getting better and many emerging markets show signs of
Hunan province which is a mineralogically important area
economic weakness together with a growing competition.
“At the Munich Show”
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59
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Germany is a well-established
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Like in many other industries, gem and jewellery business is laying its focus on Asian countries, especially china. Consumers there don’t know a lot about gemstones and therefore demand is still slow. But associations, media and industry started campaigns to educate them and so we expect a strong growing gemstone market in coming years. Germany is a well-established market for gems and jewellery. Market growth is not comparable to emerging markets but market size is still big enough to make it a very interesting market for international suppliers. What are the main problems faced by foreign suppliers of gemstones to the Germany market? Germany is an attractive market for international sup-
Tanzanite
pliers but they have to be aware of the market situation and an established system of custom and taxes. The com-
The development of prices which we saw in the last
petition is very high, but companies who offer a signifi-
years was possible because of the high demand from Asia
cant advantage in terms of purchase prices or services will
where market players were willing to pay any price. It will
be successful in finding new clients. For those who don’t
be interesting to see, how this continues when people are
know the German market yet, it will be helpful to visit a
getting more sensitive. Nevertheless, as long as the politi-
trade fair in order to get in contact with clients, media and
cal situation remains stable in China, Asia will be the lead-
associations.
ing region in terms of growth and taste.
In order to simplify import/export of products to a
Compare, please, today’s gemstone market in
trade show we have establishes a partnership with an in-
Germany and China.
ternationally leading logistics company for example. So, exhibitors can send their merchandise directly to their booth at Gemworld Munich and the same way back. Which stones are most popular in Germany?
FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY
In Germany as well, diamonds are far ahead in terms of sales numbers. But also colored gemstones are becoming more and more popular here. Tanzanite for example
EU, NATO Capital Berlin Official language German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km 2 Population (2012) 81 305 856 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita 28 873 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5% German Germany 8.5% others Largest cities Berlin 3471 756 Czech Republic Hamburg 1 786 448 Bavaria 1 353 186 France
is popular for its great color even though it’s no option for most consumers because of the high price. Germans also like amber which very often seen, as well as opal or amethyst. How seriously the recession and finance crisis of 2008–2011 do influence the Germany jewellery and gemstone trade in general? Despite the economic crisis, German market is still strong and demand especially for luxury items is growing. Last year the jewellery market grew at around 4% and also for 2013 people are optimistic. Gold, gems and jewellery is seen as a good investment as many Germans expect a growing inflation in the next years due to high public depth and guarantees for other European countries. As far as it concerns our exhibitors, they are mostly optimistic about the current situation as well as the future outlook.
Austria
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60
DANNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
“HOUSE OF AMBER” celebrates 80 years anniversary
Copenhagen Amber Museum and “House of Amber” shop
DANNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Pia Fons , Managing Direktor of “House of Amber” Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE
2013
“House of Amber” is proud of celebrating 80 years of dedication to the Danish design tradition and mark the anniversary with the launch of a limited edition collection
represents a milestone in “House
only available in stores in 2013. The anniversary collec-
of Amber's” history as the com-
tion is inspired by “House of Amber's” long design tradi-
pany this year celebrates its 80
tion combined with a modern twist. Managing Director
years anniversary.
Pia Fons is very excited about the launch of the collection
“House of Amber” was founded in 1933 by Einar
and says: “It highlights 80 years of exclusive design and
Fehrn. With his son, Soren, he designed the most beauti-
represents the core of the brand: quality, exclusivity, and
ful amber jewellery; Danish design of the highest quality.
Danish design".
In 2007, Dansk Generationsskifte A/S was given the op-
We asked Pia Fons, the Managing Director of
portunity to continue the family's lifelong work. “House
“House of Amber”: tell us about most proud mo-
of Amber” has continued in the same spirit of dedication
ments and most difficult moments for “House of
to quality and of love to the amazing amber stone. Today
Amber” during these years?
the company is one of the oldest and largest producers of
Concerning the most difficult moments in the history
exclusive amber jewellery in the world. With more than
of “House of Amber” then I would describe the years
40 shops in Denmark and China, “House of Amber” has
where the company went from being owned by Mr. Soren
established itself as a strong luxury jewellery brand.
Fehrn to being owned by an investment company.
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62
DANNISH JEWELLERY REPORT The anniversary collection
The anniversary collection
This was a transition from a family owned business to
has just opened a new shop in Copenhagen next to Tivoli.
a more developing oriented investment company.
With more than 220 m2 it is “House of Amber's” biggest
The transition went smooth but in order to make sure
shop in Denmark. The decor is elegant with a Nordic feel-
the spirit of the company, the expertise of many valued
ing and has a lot of light and space. The shop also has a
“customers” and employees and the passion for the am-
lounge area where customers can sit down and relax.
ber stayed the same as always we of course had to focus
"House of Amber” provides the absolute top quality of
very hard on the internal values and procedures.
amber set in silver and gold and decorated with diamonds
We all know that Mr. Soren Fehrn is an enigma in his
in the most exclusive, classic and contemporary designs.”
field and the inheritance is of course heavy from so many
House of Amber” aims to be recognised for having the
years of experience in the amber business.
best, most knowledgeable and service minded staff.
I am glad to say 6 years after our goodbye to the son of the company that we have succeeded. “House of Amber” is today a success in many ways with 35 shops in China and 3 signature shops in
KINGDOM OF DENMARK
Copenhagen, a new and inspiring brand universe and a lot of beautiful new amber designs coming all year round.
EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Copenhagen Official language Danish Currency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 357 021 km 2 Population (2012) 5 580 413 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy Monarch Margrethe II Prime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt GDP (PPP) Per capita 28 411 EUR Ethnic groups 87% Scandinavians Sweden 13% others Largest cities Denmark Copenhagen 1 935 746 Aarhus 252 213 Odense 158 678
The most proud moment recently happened the 17th of May this year. After the economical crises in the world economy which “House of Amber” also could feel as everybody else in the luxury industry then “House of Amber” reorganized the shops and processes. The 17th of May this year we opened a new and beautiful signature shop better than any shops we had in the past. The shop is very big, light, airy, elegant, modern and Scandinavian. So far the customers have received the new shop with open arms. What does the future of your company look like? In the coming years we are planning to expand further in China and where ever the right possibility arises. “House of Amber” will strive to continue the good work of improvements on our products, shops, service and brand. In connection with the anniversary” House of Amber”
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63
WORLDWIDE REPORT
Official Price for Raw Amber by
“Kaliningrad Amber Combine” August 2013
RUSSIAN AMBER
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64
Raw Amber August 2013
RUSSIAN AMBER
FACTIONS 20 – 50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE FEBRUARY 2006 – AUGUST 2013 BALTIC JEWELLERY MARKET Price EURO/kg
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65
WORLDWIDE REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
August 2013
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
Price/gr
Handmade
1.5 EUR
Mashine made
1,3 EUR
SILVER PRACE CHANGE JANUARY 2013 – JULY 2013 EUR/oz
SILVER PRICE CHANGE PERCENTAGE Trends
Ounce €
January 1st
52 weeks
–34.32%
–33.40%
goldrate24.com
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, info@balticjewellerynews.com
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67
WORLDWIDE REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
WORLDWIDE REPORT
Report by Cemal BULUNMAZ, Diamond Tool Professional
W
ith the instantaneous fall of the gold price
Not as much as before, but plenty of Turkish man-
in last months, all the goldsmiths around the
ufacturers are still considering the Baltic area as one of
world from one-man workshop to the plants
their main markets. The major gold manufacturer of
with thousands of people, came back to life after their
Turkey, “Arpas” is keeping attending in the main jewel-
long sleep in the last years.
lery exhibition of the area, “Amber Trip” for long years.
Nobody can give an exact and unique answer about
Companies that concentrated on Eastern Europe area
the behavior of the gold, this is for sure. But fortunate-
such as “Italgold”, “Istor”, “Midas”, “Kocak” and several
ly, we are very well experienced on deciding what to do
others are thinking and investing a lot on the region.
when it goes too high or too low. With the last instant fall
Coming to the sustainability of the uptrend, again I
of the price, leaders of the gold manufacture were ready
have to say that nobody can tell a certain word on this. As
to go back to their glowing days of tons of manufacture.
all the members of the gold industry, all I can do is to hope
As the marketing and export doyens were thirsty to sell.
that the gold prices will keep low, at least keep stable, as
Between the USA, as the biggest consumer of the
this is the most important fact that brings the production.
world, and Far East region including gigantic gold manu-
As we are pondering about the gold prices, an over-
facturers as China, India, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia
looked fact comes into the frame. After the irresistible
and others, we are in the middle of everything as Europe,
rise of silver jewellery, it seems that we are witnessing the
particularly as the east part of the continent including
birth of a new star; the imitation jewellery industry. Time will show us the way and fortunately each player
both Turkey and the Baltic area. As far as concerns the relation between Turkish jewel-
of the industry from smallest to the biggest will have time
lery market and the Baltic region, the strong relation of
and opportunity to choose their lines for their bests.
two players of the industry has effected from the fall of
All we have to do is to watch, listen, understand and react the market very carefully...
the gold prices.
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68
August 2013
GOLD PRACE CHANGE JANUARY 2013 – JULY 2013 EUR/oz
GOLD PRICE CHANGE PERCENTAGE Trends
January 1st
52 weeks
Ounce €
–20.17%
–23.91%
goldrate24.com
T
he period from April to June of 2013 was the worst time in the history of gold market over the recent period. During this period, prices dropped by 23% because investors got rid of gold, preferring other assets. By comparison, in 2012 the gold price increased by 7%.
The demand of investment in gold as safe assets is stimulated by three basic principles: protection against inflation, protection against geopolitical shocks and protection against the financial turmoil. However, it happened so that none of these risks brought painful consequences. In addition, since a lot of paper gold was emitted, people felt the anxiety and began to demand the actual gold for the paper gold – but there is none. Here’s another reason: to reduce the price in the Gold Exchange, to buy the required amount, to return to those who currently want it. The gold prices are not affected by a single factor. Namely, the resultant of a number of vectors. There is nothing permanent. The Japanese proverb says that the one that fell must rise, and the one that rises will probably fall. "GOLDINVEST ASSET MANAGEMENT", JSC http://portal.latgold.lv
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69
WORLDWIDE REPORT
The Worldwide Gold Price
WORLDWIDE REPORT
ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW OCTOBER
The Largest October Edition to Date
T
Report by ROTAFORTE Press Office he world jewelry and watch industry will gather at
ness, bridging Europe and Asia in the crossroads of three
one of the most important events of the year at
continents. It is definitely an important marketplace to
Istanbul Jewelry Show October on 03–06 October
build business and sales contacts with Turkey, Europe,
2013 in 3 halls of Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo).
Eastern Europe, the Middle East, Russia & CIS Nations and North Africa.
Istanbul Jewelry Show October brings an even
TURKISH DESIGN JEWELRY
bigger selection of products and potential partners.
The Turkish art and craft of Jewellery, inspired by
The ever growing number of participants and at-
5000 years of cultural and historical heritage of Anatolia
tendants derived the management an increase in the
combined with the latest technology, outstanding crafts-
fair’s space to three halls. Product sectorisation will
manship, immense variety, flexible production capacity,
be set up to ensure buyers efficiently find the items
excellent finishing quality, competitive prices and shortest
they are looking for. Buyers will find hundreds of
delivery time make Istanbul Jewelry Show an ideal place
suppliers in the sections of diamond jewellery, gold
to source products on every category of price and quality.
jewellery, silver jewellery, diamonds, gemstones,
TURKISH JEWELRY INDUSTRY
pearls, gold mounting, watch, packaging items, ma-
In addition to being a jewellery manufacturer, the
chinery, equipment and security devices.
country’s important geographical location bridging Asia and Europe, makes it an important distribution and re-
WHOLE INDUSTRY AT ONE STOP
export centre. In the past 25 years, Turkish gold jewelry producers had important success and Turkey had become
The four-day event, occupying
the second biggest exporter of the world after Italy, the
MORE THAN 30.000 SQM OF EXHIBITION SPACE, will gather over 600 EXHIBITORS FROM 25 COUNTRIES
fifth largest importer and the third biggest producer after Italy and India. The export had passed over 2 billion US dollars in 2012.
with an extensive display of the latest products and trends.
GREAT SUPPORT TO ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Supported by Istanbul Precious Minerals and Jewellery Exporters' Association (IMMIB), Small and Medium En-
There will be Group pavilions from China, Hong Kong,
terprises Development Organization (KOSGEB), Jewellery
India, Italy, Russian Federation and Thailand.
Exporters’ Association (JTR), certified by the Union of
THE IDEAL PLACE TO SOURCE PRODUCTS
International Fairs (UFI) and the Quality Management
Istanbul Jewelry Show October is the ideal place for
System ISO-9001, Istanbul Jewelry Show is an outstand-
sourcing thousands of new products and latest styles for
ing international trade event serving to the fast growing
the year-end, Christmas, New Year, early next year and
domestic and international markets surrounding Turkey.
also St. Valentine’s Day orders. A WORLDWIDE DISTRIBUTION HUB Thanks to its unique positioning, Istanbul Jewelry Show October acts as a distribution hub in jewelry busi-
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70
GEOMMOLOGY
Treated and synthetic diamonds:
CAN YOU IDENTIFY THEM YOURSELF? PART 2. CVD synthetic diamond
Report by Jef Van ROYEN, HRD Antwerp – Research
INTRODUCTION The influence of modern technology on the gem diamond world is becoming more and more important. Treated and synthetic diamonds are appearing on the market in increasing numbers, and their identification generally requires sophisticated technology and highly specialized knowledge. Yet, in some cases an experienced professional can still identify treated, synthetic or at least “suspect” stones, without the use of extremely expensive or complicated instruments. In a series of short contributions we illustrate some cases in which this is possible. Recently, several hundreds of undisclosed, near colourless, CVD synthetic diamonds of good clarity have been discovered on the Antwerp diamond market. Therefore the present contribution will concentrate on the identification of stones of this type.
CVD SYNTHETIC DIAMOND Schematic view of a CVD synthetic diamond reactor.
Diamonds are grown from a carbon containing gas, e.g. a mixture of methane (CH4) and hydrogen (H2). The gas molecules are broken up by heating them to the plasma state. Carbon atoms are deposited then in the form of diamond on monocrystalline diamond substrate plates.
Synthetic (i.e. man made) diamonds are entering the market in larger numbers today. Two technologies exist to produce gem quality synthetics: HPHT (High Pressure – High Temperature) and CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition). The HPHT method imitates the conditions
of high temperature and high pressure under which diamonds are formed inside the earth. CVD synthetics are made using a totally different technology: stones are
Treated and synthetic diamonds identification REQUIRES SOPHISTICATED
grown from a plasma, a gas heated to extremely high temperatures (Fig. 1). Whereas HPHT synthetics available
TECHNOLOGY AND HIGHLY SPECIALIZED KNOWLEDGE
today are usually fancy colours (yellow), the CVD method is producing mainly near colourless stones.
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72
Screening instruments are available on the market to help diamond professionals to make the difference bemight be synthetic, and that need more sophisticated tests in a high-tech laboratory. Typical screening instruments of this type are DiamondSureTM (DTC) and D-Screen (HRD Antwerp). D-Screen is shown in Fig. 2. This pocket-size, affordable instrument will give you (literally) a green light for
GEOMMOLOGY
tween stones that are certainly natural, and stones that
the large majority of near-colourless polished diamonds, proving that they are not synthetic.
Fig. 2 D-Screen instrument, used for screening
colourless diamonds that are not HPHT treated and not synthetic
For a small percentage of stones this instrument will refer to a sophisticated laboratory, where additional high tech measurements can be made. Note that this instru-
When rough, synthetic diamonds can easily be distinguished from their natural counterparts because of their
ment also refers near colourless HPHT colour enhanced diamonds for further tests.
very different external shape. However, after polishing the difference between natural and synthetic diamond can only be made using high-tech laboratory equipment.
More information › on D-screen can be found at www.hrdantwerp.be
Exclusive Amber Jewellery
Produser: UAB
“Inkliuzija”, Vilniaus al. 10a, 66119 Druskininkai, Lithuania Tel.: +370 686 59993 / +370 698 76558 / Fax +370 313 55884 inkliuzija@post.omnitel.net / inkliuzija@gmail.com
UAB “ART VETUS”
Poilsio str. 7, LT-93200, Klaipeda, Lithuania
Amber-Bernstein Mob. +37068631576 / E-mail: uab.artvetus@gmail.com www.ambertrade.eu
PERFACTORY TECHNOLOGY
®
AUREUS
ber, and silicone molding. There are no limits to geometric
The Aureus is the best-selling machine for the low pro-
complexity as long as the item has been designed in a 3D
duction of customized jewelry with its unbeatable price
CAD program and may be exported as an STL file. The
to performance ratio. The Aureus is the perfect choice for
machines are delivered and installed with all the relevant
the small to medium sized company looking to fill their 3D
software to enable automatic support generation and
printing production requirements. With the ability to run
perfect model production. Resolution and surface finish
unattended, 24 hour production is achievable. The Aureus
remains constant over the entire build area due to pat-
can run a variety of materials for direct casting, hot rub-
ented technology based on voxelisation.
Machine Properties*
Perfactory® Aureus 3D Printer
Build Envelope
2.36” x 1.71” x 3.94” (60 x 45 x 100 mm)
Projector Resolution
1400 x 1050 pixels
Native Pixel Size
0.0017” (43 µm)
Dynamic Voxel Resolution in Z (material dependent)**
0.0010” (25 µm) to 0.0014” (35 µm)
Data Handling
STL
Warranty
1 Year Included
* Specifications are subject to change without notice. **
A voxel is a volumetric pixel.
Materials Available
Ideal for
R5/R11
Cold silicone molding with high resolution
PIC 100/100G
Direct casting
WIC 100G
Direct casting
EC500
Direct casting
RCP30/130
HTV Molding
HTM140
HTV Molding with minimal post finishing
SYSTEM PROPERTIES › Easy handling through pre-adjusted material modules › Build speed is constant through the build up to 0.12” (3mm) to 0.28” (7mm) per hour at 0.0014” (35 µm) Z-voxel thickness (material dependent) › Very few moving parts and minimal consumable components guarantee a strong and reliable system › Utilizing a built in ethernet interface, can connect directly to a PC workstation or be integrated into a network › Changeover between materials is done quickly and easily Footprint (L x W x H):
17.72” x 30.71” x 17.72” (45 x 78 x 45 cm)
Weight:
77.16 lbs (35 kg)
Electrical Requirements:
100-120V, 2Amp
220-240V, 1Amp
Patents Pending
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74
The IMPERIAL CROWN OF RUSSIA, also known as the GREAT IMPERIAL CROWN, WAS USED BY THE
TECHNOLOGY
EMPERORS OF RUSSIA UNTIL THE MONARCHY’S ABOLITION IN 1917.
It is currently on display in the Moscow Kremlin Armory State Diamond Fund. NO ONE IS
ALLOWED EVEN TO TOUCH THE ORIGINAL, but SMOLENSK DIAMOND GROUP WAS ABLE TO CREATE A REPLICA OF THE CROWN very carefully,
detail by detail, in 3D CAD. This design was transferred to a Perfactory® 3D printer from EnvisionTEC where it was built in sections in WIC100 resin and cast in 14K WHITE GOLD. The crown was then assembled using TRADITIONAL HAND CRAFTED TECHNIQUES. It took two months to make the replica of the Grand Imperial Crown that WAS SHOWCASED at a jewellers’ forum
The copy of the Imperial Crown of Russia created by Smolensk
IN ST. PETERSBURG
Diamond Group
3D printing opportunities Report by Jenna FRANKLIN, EnvisionTEC GmbH
D
esigning in 3D permits countless opportunities
a Perfactory ® Mini from EnvisionTEC in 2010. The success
to non-destructively explore variations or make
of the printer prompted another install during 2011. Mr.
changes according to each client’s individual
Kunzev from the company stated, “Thanks to the imple-
needs. Among 3D printers, the EnvisionTEC Perfactory ®
mentation of the 3D Printers from EnvisionTEC we are able
produces models with outstanding surface on top of as-
to produce unique custom designs of the highest quality
tonishing detail that can then be direct cast or molded.
very quickly for our clients”.
One company who has discovered the benefits of the
Smolensk Diamond Group is often asked to manu-
EnvisionTEC Perfactory ® 3D printing system is Smolensk
facture unique pieces and one such project was for the
Diamonds Jewellery Group. Smolensk Diamond Group
Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.
is part of the Kristall Production Corporation, the larg-
“Without the Perfactory ® 3D Printers, such a task
est manufacturer of cut and polished diamonds in Russia
would have taken more than one year to produce the
and Europe with over 600,000 carats polished each
replica crown and a lot more staff. The accuracy we can
year. Smolensk Diamond Group was formed to produce
achieve on an object this size is incredible and beyond
high end specialist jewellery and one off custom pieces
skilled craftsmen using traditional methods”, Mr. Kunzev
using the famous Kristall diamonds. They have used 3D
remarked.
CAD and CAM for some years but decided to purchase
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75
PERSONALITY
YOU GET AS MUCH as you give www.balticjewellerynews.com
77
PERSONALITY
This year the International Amber Association
In 1991 the first Amber Gallery of Mizgiris was opened
Award “Amber Business Partner 2012” was
in Nida, after two years, fostering the cultural heritage
given to Virginija and Kazimieras Mizgiriai, the
"The Mizgiris’ Amber Museum" was opened in an old fish-
owners of "The Mizgiris’ Amber Museum" in
erman’s house. Soon, keeping the tradition of Hermann
Nida and Vilnius (Lithuania).
Blode, 1996, Artists' House was established. Here artists, who are coming for summer, have the only obligation - to communicate with visitors and let them observe amber
Report by Angele JUODZEVICIENE
V
processing, and birth of unique pieces of art. The visitors of "The Mizgiris’ Amber Museum" are invited to participate in individual and group lessons and
irginija Mizgiriene’s answer to the question
learn about amber processing. This year 130 groups from
“How do you value “Amber Business Partner
the USA reserved the cycles of lessons (lessons are con-
2012” award?” was very simple: “You get as
ducted in Lithuanian, English, German and Russian).
much as you give”. Kazimieras gave a little bit wider an-
Virginija and Kazimieras Mizgiriai did not confine am-
swer: “It is evaluation of your honest work, reasonable
ber promotion only in Nida, in 1998 they opened the "The
selection of collections, timely settlement, … and many
Mizgiris’ Amber Museum" in the 17th century Baroque-
different nuances.”
style building in Vilnius Old Town. The artistic presentation of amber stone gained even greater extent. Here you can see the amber stone weighing 3 kg, a unique collection of inclusions, reconstructed amulets of Juodkrante treasure – the largest archaeological collection of amber in the world, ancient amber jewellery and works made by the most famous present-day artists. We are creating our life by our ideas and feelings, love and faith spread by us comes back with double force. Therefore, they have chosen the activity of amber ambassadors to promote Lithuania as the region of amber, every time presenting new colours of the sun stone and even more.
Left to right: Virginija Mizgiriene, owner of “The Mizgiris' Am-
Even in 1998 I was particularly impressed by the fact
ber Museum”, Lithuania; Wojciech Kalandyk, owner the company “ART 7”, Poland; Kazimieras Mizgiris, owner of “The Mizgiris' Amber Museum”, Kristina Mizgiryte, owner of AV17 Gallery, Lithuania
that they have assumed great responsibility, when buying premises of huge historical heritage for their amber gal-
When you listen to their sincere and warm story about the emergence of friendship with amber, you understand that they have given a lot: faith, love and ambitious wish to tell the world about the amazing beauty of amber, and to show that this impressive piece of nature is not only a product of amber jewellery, but also an inspiration for the world of arts. The first teachers of Virginija and Kazimieras were foreign tourists, who were visiting Nida. Their interest in amber initiated their choice to become the promoters of amber beauty in the world. There was a wish to make foreign guests, visiting our seaside, have warm, amber energy imbued memories, that they would like to come Since May the Sensory Room operates at the “The Mizgiris' Amber Museum”
back and spread the love for the beauty of natural amber far beyond the boarders of Lithuania.
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78
The Sensory Room at the “The Mizgiris' Amber Museum” lery. When restructuring the premises, during archaeological investigations authentic 15th century ceramic furnaces and about 30000 archaeological findings, dating back to the 14–19 th century, were found. Now everyone is able to see amber treasures and architectural relics. In 2004 the Baltic Amber Art Centre was opened next to "The Mizgiris’ Amber Museum” in Vilnius. The literature about amber and its history is being collected and stored here. The centre organizes lectures, provides special space for young artists and presents an inspiring prehistory of amber formation under the glass floor.
The Sensory Room at the “The Mizgiris' Amber Museum”
Much interesting and valuable information has been collected when developing amber galleries and museums, communicating with different people of science and arts.
We have assigned the artistic expression of the project
In 2005 Mizgiriai published their first book “Mysterious
to Nerijus Erminas, design – to Ieva Kristapaviciute”, - said
amber world. Geheimnisvolle Bernsteinwelt”. It attrac-
Virginija. “Idea was born to create an opportunity for visi-
tively presents information about amber and photos
tor to find out the main physical and healing qualities of
made by Kazimieras. Kazimieras Mizgiris is a member of
amber through artistic expression means.”
International Federation of Photographic Art.
“The Mizgiris’ Amber Museum" often represents
On the 12th of March, 2008 K. Mizgiris became a
Lithuania as Amber country in the world. Recently, one
member of the World Amber Council.
of such collections returned from the Etruscan Museum in Rome (Italy), where from 2012 December until June the
This year Mizgiriai presented their new project “AMBER OTHERWISE” to the World Amber Council. “WE HAVE BEEN
most famous Lithuanian jewelers’ artworks were exhibited. Now this exhibition is being shown in the Seimas of the Republic of Lithuania, for the occasion of the
LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW, INEXPERIENCED, UNCONVENTIONAL.
Lithuanian presidency of the Council of the Europe Union. Virginija and Kazimieras are also planning to publish a
We want to present amber in sensorial and visual way. We try to show the physical and sensorial features of amber.
new book about amber. Maybe it will be something different, unusual, but very admissible?...
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79
FASHION
Detail of the minimalism – collection of “House of Amber”
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82
FASHION
“H
ouse of Amber” is proud to present new and exciting design collaboration with Danish designer Louise Sigvardt. She
is one of Denmark’s new upcoming designers, and she graduated from Kolding Design School, Denmark in 2011. Her graduate collection consisted of an unconventional clothing collection with fixed amber studs in collaboration with “House of Amber”. Louise Sigvardt received the “Designers’ Nest” award in 2012. The competition was established in 2005 and takes place during Copenhagen Fashion Week. It rewards the best young and talented designers in Scandinavia. The jewellery collection “House of Amber” by Louise Sigvardt consists of a ring, two bracelets and a necklace with silver chains and polished amber beads. Louise Sigvardt is a minimalist and she likes the way every detail of the minimalism embraces a practical or logical aspect and minimalist design reminds her about a mathematical equation, which is very recognizable in her creations for “House of Amber”. The designs are innovative, modern and unique.
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83
FASHION
India International Jewellery Week
IIJW
2013 is an initiative to showcase India’s finest in jewellery, be it design or innova-
tion, supported by top-of-the-line craftsmanship, technology and quality to the customers around the globe. India, with its ability to create most intrinsic and inspired jewellery, has made bold statements across the globe.
ď š
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84
IIJW is an attempt to provide an international platform to India’s budding and leading designers and also design houses to unveil their fascinating, classic and contemporary jewellery collections to the world
FASHION
jewellery market, thereby establishing India as the most sought after destination for quality jewellery. 30 firms participated including well-known and upcoming designers from across India and showcased their exquisite jewellery collection at the show in this year amazing Fashion Week. IIJW may become the cause for various brands of jewellery. Many famous Indian jewellery makers have shown their masterpieces here. The event was organized by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and presented by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), in association with PC Jeweller. It was many famous Bollywood actress at the India International Fashion Week. From Lara Dutta to Sonam Kapoor - the brand ambassador of IIJW.

E XCLUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B US I N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C S E A R EG I O N
www.balticjewellerynews.com Laike us on
“The main idea of the magazine – to get jewellery business representatives from all over the world familiar with the status of this business in the Baltic Sea Region and to contribute to its development as much as possible. Our magazine presents the best in jewellery news, reviews and design trends, reflected objective information, main problems, achievements, important events about jewellery world”
CARICATURE
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88
A THEFT FOR 8,180,000 MLN EUR IN AMBER INDUSTRY WAS PREVENTED IN THE KALININGRAD REGION
27 JUNE 2013
the Kaliningrad region, a criminal case against heads of three enterprises, involved in export of amber, was opened. Regional Internal Affairs Directorate is referring to “Geolit” LLC, “Mittel” LLC, and “Specialist” LLC.
According to the investigation, within the period from 2007 to 2012, heads of the above companies had been submit-
ting to the tax office of Kaliningrad false documents for value added tax refund amounting to over 8,180,000 million EUR. Bank accounts of the heads of “Geolit” LLC, “Mittel” LLC, and “Specialist” LLC are blocked. “The investigation has established that the leader of the organized criminal group is the head of “Amber Pluc” LLC, Viktor Bogdan.” At this moment, law enforcement authorities of the Kaliningrad region have arrested two suspects. According to investigators, Bogdan has holed up outside the Russian Federation and has been put on the wanted list along with the rest of the suspects. Source of information › http://www.severinform.ru
2000 PIECES OF JEWELLERY FOUND TRANSPORTED BY RUSSIANS ON THE BORDER 2 JULY 2013
TWO
Russians, travelling from Poland through the border checkpoint “Warsaw Bridge” on 2 July, were thoroughly screened at Brest customs, Belarus.
The reason for this was their overly fussy behaviour when passing the “green channel”. At first sight, everything was
alright – there were only bags with personal items found in the cabin of the jeep. However, an in-depth inspection revealed articles made of agate, sapphire, and other precious stones among these items. Customs officers found pendants, bracelets, necklaces, and rings, in total amounting to over 2 thousand pieces. All these articles were withdrawn and pre-evaluated for more than 11000 EUR. Source of information › http://vb.by
JEWELS WORTH EUR 100 MILLION STOLEN IN CANNES 30 JUNE.2013
Jewellery and precious stones for a total of 103 million euros were stolen on Sunday following an armed raid on a jewellery exhibition, held at the Carlton hotel in Cannes. The robbery was committed by an unknown person, armed with a gun, who kidnapped a bag with jewellery and fled the scene.. No one was injured during the robbery; the Cannes police is responsible for the investigation which is on the way. Previously, in May jewelry by Chopard worth a total of 1.4 million euros were stolen at the Novotel in Cannes. A few days later a diamond necklace by De Grisogono worth more than 2 million euros also became a prey to thieves. Source of information › http://www.rough-polished.com
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89
CRIMINALS
IN
BALTIC JEWELLERY NEWS ANNOUNCES
MAJOR TRADE FAIRS IN August 2013 – March 2014 India International Jewellery Show Date: 8–12 August 2013 Venue: Bombay, India www.gjepc.org info@gjepcindia.com
Shenzhen International Jewellery Fair Date: 13–17 September, 2013 Venue: Shenzhen, China www.chinaexhibition.com salescjgf-hk@ubm.com
Norwegian Gold & Watch Trade Fair Date: 22–25 August, 2013 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no
Vendome Luxury Date: 27–30 September 2013 Venue: Paris, France www.xxb.fr contact@xxb.fr
Copenhagen Jewellery Fair 2013 Date: 22–25 August 2013 Venue: Copenhagen, Denmark www.cphjs.dk info@cphjs.dk
Japan Jewellery Fair Date: 27–29 August 2013 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com
AMBERMART–International Amber Fair Date: 29–31 August, 2013 Venue: Gdansk International Fair www.mtgsa.com.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl International Jewellery London Date: 1–4 September 2013 Venue: London, United Kingdom www.jewellerylondon.com ijlteam@reedexpo.co.uk JOGS Tucson Gem and Jewelry September Show Date: 5–8 September, 2013 Venue: Tucson, USA jogsshow.com info@jogsshow.com
Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair Date: 6–10 September 2013 Venue: Bangkok, Thailand www.thaigemjewelry.or.th Bangkok_gems@thaijewelry.or.th VICENZAORO Fall Date: 7–11 September, 2013 Venue: Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaorofall.it info@vicenzafiera.it
Iberjoya Date: 11–15 September, 2013 Venue: Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/iberjoya_01 infoifema@ifema.es JUNWEX Moscow Date: 14–18 September 2013 Venue: Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru/junwex overseas@restec.ru Vicenzaoro Fall Date: 8–12 September 2012 Venue: Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzafiera.it vicenzafiera@vicenzafiera.it
Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 11–14 September 2013 Venue: AsiaWorld Expo, Hong Kong www.AsiaFJA.com
salesafj-hk@ubm.com
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 11–17 September 2013 Venue: Asia World Expo, Hong Kong www.jewellerynetasia.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com
Portojoja Date: 26–29 September 2013 Venue: Porto, Portugal www.portojaja.exponor.pt info@exponor.com
International Jewellery Tokyo Autumn Date: 2–4 October, 2013 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.ijt.jp ijt-eng@reedexpo.co.jp Intergem Date: 3–6 October, 2013 Venue: Idar-Oberstein, Germany www.intergem.de office@intergem.de Istanbul Jewelry Show October Date: 3–6 October 2013 Venue: Istanbul, Turkey www.rotaforte.com info@rotaforte.com Gold Silver Time Date: 4–6 October, 2013 Venue: Warsaw, Poland www.zlotosrebroczas.com w.gontarska@mct.com.pl Gold Silver & Watch Date: 11–13 October, 2013 Venue: Helsinki, Finland www.messukeskus.com info@finnexpo.fi
G.L.D.A-Gem & Jewellery Show-Las Vegas Date: 25–27 October 2013 Venue: Las Vegas, United States Of America www.glda.com info@glda.com Gemworld Munich Date: 25–27 October 2013 Venue: Munich, Germany munichshow.com exhibitor@munichshow.com
Malaysia International Jewellery Festival Date: 1–4 November, 2013 Venue: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.mij.com.my info@mij.com.my Aru-Astana Date: 7–10 November, 2013 Venue: Astana, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz kazexpo@kazexpo.kz
Jeweller Expo Ukraine 2013 Date: 14–17 November 2013 Venue: Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua jewel@kmkya.kiev.ua
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90
Watches & Jewels Date: 15–17 November, 2013 Venue: Bratislava, Slovakia www.incheba.sk enagy@incheba.sk
Hong Kong International Jewelry Manufacturers' Show Date: 28 November–1 December 2013 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.jewelryshows.org visitors@jewelry.org.hk Dubai International Jewellery Week Date: 4–7 December 2013 Venue: Dubai, UAE www.jewelleryshow.com info@jewelleryshow.com
VICENZAORO Winter Date: 18–23 January, 2014 Venue: Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaorofall.it info@vicenzafiera.it
Mineralien Hamburg Date: 6–8 December, 2013 Venue: Hamburg, Germany mineralien-hamburg.de/en/homepage/ lara.meske@hamburg-messe.de International Jewellery Fair Tokyo Date: 22–25 January, 2014 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.ijt.jp/en/ ijt-eng@reedexpo.co.jp
The Jewellery Show Date: 2–6 February, 2013 Venue: Birmingham, United Kingdom www.thejewelleryshow.com sales@springfair.com JUNWEX Date: 5–9, February, 2014 Venue: St. Petersburg, Russia eng.rjexpert.ru overseas@restec.ru Inhorgenta Munich Date: 14–17 February 2014 Venue: Munich, Germany www.inhorgenta.com info@inhorgenta.de
Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 5–9 March 2014 Venue: Hong Kong www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en exhibitions@hktdc.org
XI International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 12–15, March, 2014 Venue: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com info@ambertrip.com
AMBERIF, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 19–22, March, 2014 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 20–23 March, 2014 Venue: Istanbul, Turkey www.rotaforte.com info@rotaforte.com
Fastest Way To The Baltic Sea Region! The international Jewellery magazine “Baltic Jewellery News” is looking for correspondents in the Baltic Sea Region. If you would like to enter into something newsworthy, don’t hesitate to contact us.
KERTU VELLERIND free-lancer jewelry-artist
Aušros vartų 15–5, LT-01129 Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23. Mob. +370 610 11 302 office@balticjewellerynews.com www.balticjewellerynews.com www.facebook.com/BalticJewelleryNews
UNIQUE JEWELRY Ela Pavinskiene elacnator@gmail.com +370674 06905
SOFT JEWELLERY Elze Sakalinskaite
+37067518872 elze.sakalinskaite@gmail.com www.elzesakalinskaite.com
GALLERY CELLA Stiklių 4, Vilnius, Lithuania HYPERLINK www.cella.lt
CONTEMPORARY LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY Laima Kėrienė and other artists creating exclusive work Silver, gold and precious stones combined into unique pieces Open Tuesday to Saturday 12 to 18
HANDMADE JEWELLERY Svajunas Udrys artist
We will always find space for you if you want to advertise with us
Mob. +370 686 14551 udrys.svajus@gmail.com
Hobusepea 2, Tallinn 10133, ESTONIA Tel. +372 566 472 87 kerttuee@hotmail.com
JEWELLERY DESIGNER Ditė Dilginienė dite.dilginiene@inbox.lt +370 68334716
ART JEWELRY Rasma Puspure rasma.puspure@gmail.com +371 26189179
HANDMADE JEWELRY Daria Popolitova darjapa@hotmail.com +372 58283171
info@balticjewellerynews.com www.balticjewellerynews.com
This column of the “Baltic Jewellery News” magazine is for all those who are looking for something in the jewellery world or want to offer something to others. If you are looking for something but cannot find it, place your advertisement in this magazine and you will certainly get help. The creators of the magazine are sure of that as the “Baltic Jewellery News” reaches many people of the jewellery business world and not only in the Baltic Sea Region.
Dear Reader, If you want to subscribe magazine “Baltic Jewellery News”, please fill in the subscription form and send us back.
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Baltic Jewellery News Magazine March 2013
Distributions List INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOWS – MARCH/AUGUST, 2013
X International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip“, Vilnius, Lithuania
500
X X International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones “Amberif“, Gdansk, Poland
700
Istanbul Jewelry Show, Istanbul, Turkey
300
Jewellery Exhibition “Baltic Amber 2013“, Kaliningrad, Russia
100
Jubinale, Trend show for Jewellery & Watches, Krakow, Poland
200
India International Jewellery Show
100
THE PARTNERS OF THE MAGAZINE 150 THE JEWELLERY SHOPS Estonia Latvia Kaliningrad Lithuania Poland
150 200 200 200 200 Subscribes
Manufacturer
“BALTIC JEWELLERY NEWS” ARE DISTRIBUTED Retail International Jewellery Show 50% Wholesale 16% Retail 12% Wholesale Manufacturer 15% Subscribes 7%
www.balticjewellerynews.com
95
International Jewellery Show
CONGRATULATE
Congratulations on your birthday Lev Romanenko – 9 August
Antanas Dunauskas – 15 November
Maryte Dominaite–Gureviciene – 17 August
Adam Wyspenski – 18 November
Jonas Damzenas – 24 August
Virginija Kelmickienė – 23 November
Knut Rudlof – 11 August
Ewelina Marcinkowska – 23 November
Eckhard Hinz – 9 September
Bilal Achmadov – 26 November
Svetlana Kalinina – 13 September
Beata Sietinšienė – 27 November
Peters Brangulis – 29 September
Maksim Vasiukowic – 22 December
Liudmila Michailovska – 6 October
Tadeusz Prokopiuk – 22 December
Olegas Lenko – 9 October
Zofia Krzeminska – 24 December
Dainius Gadliauskas – 10 October
Murat Ozoylumlu – 25 December
Vidmantas Urbutis – 11 October
Rimas Bričkus – 26 December
Dr. Wolfgang Weitschat – 3 Nowember
Yuri A. Mukhin – 9 January
Igar Korbaniuk – 4 November
Audra Navikienė – 19 January
Harish Zaveri – 7 November
Astijus Jasaitis – 22 January
Darius Tamašauskas – 7 November
Remigijus Zadeikis – 14 February
Company “Pajurio Krantas“, Lithuania
Jeweler, Kalinigrad, Russia
Company “Studio Rox”, Poland
Artist, art curator, Lithuania
Jeweller, Lithuania
Company “Damjon Amber”, Lithuania
Company “Cyrkonia”, Poland
Company “Nordschmuck GmbH”
Company “Arpas”, Turkey
Company “Ostsee-Schmuck GmbH”, Germany
Jeweller, Lithuania
Press secretary of the SUE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”
Company “Orchidea“, Russia
Head at Assay Office of Latvia
Company “Natura Firma Handlowa”, Poland
International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”
Company “Adular”, Poland
Company “Uralskie Samocveti”, Lithuania
Company “Ser Ticaret“, Turkey
Jeweller, Lithuania
Jeweller, Lithuania
Company “Art Vetus”, Lithuania
Ex General Director of FSE “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”, PhD in economy, MBA
Geological-Palaeontological Institute and Museum University of Hamburg, Germany
Company “Amber by Palanga”, Lithuania
Company “Laggar”, Kaliningrad region, Russia
Company “Napoleonas”, Lithuania
Convener-Exhibition, GJEPC, India
Company “Autentic”, Lithuania
Jeweller, Lithuania
Sergej Falkin – 10 November
Art director of Art Association in St. Petersburg
Baltic Jewellery News Team Wishes You Success in Business and Personal Life www.balticjewellerynews.com
96
E.ZUMBRICKO II DEBRECENO 70–10 KLAIPEDA LT-94153 LITHUANIA
owner EDVARDAS ZUMBRICKAS TEL. +37039838245 FAX +37046360652
www.amber999.com
OUR FRIENDS
X
Giedrius Guntorius, the organizer of the international Baltic
Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” and Mr. Amber – Sorn Fehrn, this year he celebrating his 50 years in the amber business
VIP Guest of the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Chano del Toro (Meksika)
ANNIVERSARY “AMBER TRIP” MOMENTS
Peters Brangulis – CEO, Latvian Assay Office Dorota Wasilewska company “Amber Kewa” (Poland) and Angele Juodzeviciene editor-in-chief of the magazine “Baltic Jewellery News”
Right-to-left: VIP Guest Boll Hamad Jasems (Kuwait), Nerijus Cinga, company “Napoleonas- Amber Jewelery Co” (Lithuania),
Algirdas Marcius, jeweler (Lithuania)
Guntorius, the organizer of the international Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” and full of fire, passion, energy of wellknown black-haired Gypsy group “Sare Roma”
AMAZING SUPER PARTY SHOW “GRAND ANNIVERSARY PARTY” FOR X ANNIVERSARY “AMBER TRIP” EXHIBITORS AND GUESTS
Greta Krupaviciute – translator, Algirdas Mikutis – artist (Lithuania),
Giedrius Guntorius – the organizer of the international Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”, Azuolas Vaitukaitis – artist (Lithuania)
Michal Kosior – International Amber Assosiation
congratulate Giedrius Guntorius – the organizer of the international Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”
Left to right: Kazimieras Mizgiris
– the owner of the amber museum galleries in Vilnius and Nida; very well known Lithuanian amber expert (Lithuania), Judita Baciulyte, K. Mizgiris “Amber Gallery–Museum (Lithuania), Giedrius Guntorius, the organizer of the international Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” and Dr. Wolfgang Weitschat Assistant professor and curator Geologiсal–Palaeontological Institute and Museum University of Hamburg (Germany)
Daiva Lukauskiene, jeweler
(Lithuania), Elvyras Cikanavicius and Ruta Cikanaviciene “Sidabrine Kameja” (Lithuania)
Aydin Colakoglu, company “Alexandra Gold” (Turkey)
OUR FRIENDS
Giedrius
XI International Baltic Jewellery Show
“AMBER TRIP” 12–15th March, 2014 APPLICATION FORM – CONTRACT Company name Address
(Street, city, country, post code)
Tel.
Fax
Mob. Tel.
Company code
VAT code
Contact person
Stand N°
Product index (please, choose): amber jewellery, silver jewellery, gold jewellery, gemstones, semi – precious stones, equipment, others
Name of service
Price without VAT 1m² (EUR)
Desirable area in the show with a standard stand’s equipment (minimum 6 (six) sq.m.)
87,00
Obligatory record in the show’s catalogue
85,00
Registration fee
87,00
Sub exponent
102,00
Unit
Sum without VAT (EUR)
Sum: VAT 21% Total sum: Sum by words Data
UAB “AMBER TRIP” Aušros Vartų g. 15–5, Vilnius, LT-01129, Lithuania Tel. +370 5 2608495, Fax +370 5 2608497 info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com
EUR S. P.
(Position, name, last name, signature)
ct
XI International
Baltic Jewellery Show
“Amber Trip” 12–15 March, 2014
Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. +370 5 2608495 Fax + 370 5 2608497 info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com