Baltic Jewellery News (September 2014) No. 27 by Baltic Jewellery

E XCLUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B US I N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C S E A R EG I O N

September 2014 (27)

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!

XII INTERNATIONAL XII INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW

BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW

“Amber T rip” “AmberTrip” 18–21 MARCH, 2015 18–21 MARCH, 2015 VILNIUS, LITHUANIA VILNIUS, LITHUANIA

Tel. +370 5 2608495 Tel.+ +370 2608495 Fax 370 552608497 Fax + 370 5 2608497 info@ambertrip.com info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com

Dear Readers, Here we meet again. Baltic Jewellery News came back after hot summer with a baggage of new ideas and inspirations. We hope that jewellers and bussness people in jewellery market came back with new and refreshing energy as well. If not this issue will ignite it. With the help of Euromonitor International, this issue offers insights to jewellery market in different countries in the region, with more detailed statistics than ever. Talking about statistics, amber price is dropping. Something we could not imagine in March. Check our first article by Anna Sado, which gives opinions on this matter. Furthermore, Kaliningrad Amber Combine has agreed to share their stratégy, exclusively to the Baltic Jewellery News readers. There are a few new themes in this issue. First, Amber Online Shopping. We have a short report on what is the

We are also proud to announce that we have recalled our

situation on Ebay, Amazon and Etsy. Is amber popular

forgotten rubric – Inclusions. Lets not forget that amber

online? You will also find a Book Review: “Contemporary

is so precious to the world not only because of its beauty,

Jewellers: Interviews with European Artists”. What does

it has helped science to uncover many secrets of the past.

jewellery mean today? Does wearability matter for a jeweller? Is it culturally relevant?

We extend our heartiest thanks to all the contributors,

For those who have interest in getting fresh ideas and

articles. We are happy that with every issue there are

who had been interviewed and who wrote reports and inspiration for their designs, check out works that were

more people who understand that it is important to Baltic

submited for 5D contest in Amber Trip 2014. We also offer

Sea Region jewellery to become more visible in the world.

something fresh and unseen in the use of amber, namely the new collections by cooperation between House of

Enjoy the issue!

Amber and Kopenhagen Fur, and a new collection of Stanislav Drokin.

Odilija GUNTORIUTE

CONTENT:

September 2014 (27)

Topicalities 4

Prices of Amber are dropping!

Amber Online Shopping

Kaliningrad Region RF Jewellery Report

A triumphal return of amber home

Merit of the new management – JSC Amber Yuvelirprom can be proud of new export relationships

All-Russian Contest 2014-08-19

Polish Jewellery Report

Trends and prospects for jewellery market in Poland

Amber deposits in Poland

LEGNICA after silver culmination

AMBERMART – The 15th International Amber Fair

AMBERIF design award 2014

Lithuanian Jewellery Report

AMBER TRIP entered a second decade stronger than ever

“5D” Jewellery Art Contest

Latvian Jewellery Report

Jewellery Business and assay control in Latvia

German Jewellery Report

Trends and prospects for jewellery market in Germany

GEMWORLD MUNICH – the purchasing and trend platform in

30 years INTERGEM

Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe 2014 closes with positive results

autumn

Danish Jewellery Report

A commitment for a pair of Denmark treasures

PANDORA Group – successful increase of revenue in Europe

Swedish Jewellery Report

Trends and prospects for jewellery market in Sweden

Precious Talents 2014

Finnish Jewellery Report

From a container to an international exhibition of contemporary jewellery

Norwegian Jewellery Report

Norwegian goldsmith sector in focus

Ukrainian Jewellery Report

Trends and prospects for jewellery market in Ukraine

World Class Ukrainian Jewellery

Worldwide Jewellery Report

Official Price for Raw Amber by Kaliningrad Amber Combine

The worldwide price for Raw Amber

The worldwide price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

The worldwide Gold price

Global Gold Jewellery Market

GJEPC’s presented the 31st edition of India International Jewellery

Show 2014

International Amber Association Report

Amber Training Courses

The IAA meets NGTC

Inclusions 98

AMBER FOSSIL reveals ancient reproduction in flowering plants

Personality

The Space Between – Jewellery Guru who has inspired Westerners

100

and Easterners

Book Review

102

Contemporary Jewellers: Interviews with European Artists

Jewellery Crime

104

1.3 thousand bags of amber worth around 87 mn EUR were found

Other 105

Major Jewellery Trade Fairs

106

FlashBacks from the Amber Trip “GIPSY PARTY”

110

Advertisement in “Baltic Jewellery News“

111

Subscription Form

112

NEW IN THE BALTIC SEA REGION – AMBER WORLD Baltic Jewellery News/ September 2014 (27) Palplaujos st. 5-7, LT 11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel/Fax: +370 52608497; E-mail.: info@balticjewellerynews.com Editor/ODILIJA GUNTORIUTE/+370 61607506; E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Designer/DANA SMITIENE/

Translator/VERTIMU GURU/ CIRCULATION 3000

Reporter: Lithuania: O.Guntoriute/ office@balticjewellerynews.com; Poland: A. Sado/ anna.sado@amber.com.pl; M. Kosior/ info@amber.org.pl; Kaliningrad Region RF: I. Klimovich/ info@ambermuseum.ru; Finland: J. Sokura and M. Holm/ jenskanen@gmail.com; USA: C. Browning/ editor@artjewelryforum.org Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region Population over 80 million Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is no permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!

TOPICALITIES

“We have already heard about the drop in prices, but we haven’t felt it yet.” – Marcin WESOŁOWSKI from the NAC Amber company

Prices of AMBER

DROPPING!

ARE

By Anna SADO

aving reached their highest levels between

April and May, when they were literally increasing from one week to the next, the prices

of amber have finally begun to drop. On average there’s been 10–20% drop, but the tendency is increasing.

“Asia, who decides about the prices as the largest outlet of the raw material and finished Baltic amber products, has had enough” – claims Krzysztof Lalik from the Golden Amber company, who deals with amber trade. In his opinion the main reason for this situation is not the high level of the prices, but their volatility: “It is very difficult to conKrzysztof LALIK from the Golden Amber company

duct business when one does not know how much the raw material needed for production will cost. After the price jumps on the turn of May the purchasers have clearly run out of patience”.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

TOPICALITIES

IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO CONDUCT BUSINESS when one does not know how much THE RAW MATERIAL needed for production WILL COST

Current situation is full of anticipation: the buyers from Asia have stopped buying, counting on a further decrease in prices, and the intermediaries in the amber raw material trade have stopped selling, hoping that the price fluctuations are only temporary and that the prices will eventually go up. At the moment, nobody is

larger bits. In this way they could get rid of the so-called

buying amber, unless they have to. I am also waiting. I

left-overs, and we have the raw material that we don’t

have estimated that if I had bought raw material a month

need” – says Marcin Wesołowski from the NAC Amber

ago, I would have lost up to 20,000 Euro per 10 kilo. It

company.

is the best time to take a holiday” – sums up Aleksander

What are the forecasts for the nearest future?

Gliwiński, jewellery designer.

According to Krzysztof Lalik, the prices should soon come

The decrease in amber raw material prices is felt

back to the level from the beginning of the year. The mar-

most in small fractions, in the large ones it is negligible.

ket will stabilise and clear: “High prices of the raw mate-

However, it is the most desired kind of raw material that

rial were encouraging all kinds of speculation, and this

can be used for making beads – which are still the base

attracted random people, interested in quick gain. Now

for sales on the largest outlet – Asia. “We have already

they will probably disappear as quickly as they appeared”.

heard about the drop in prices, but we haven’t felt it yet.

Aleksander Gliwiński, however, indicates a different, yet

The most important thing is that the prices have stopped

very important aspect of these changes: “I hope that

rising – after the Amberif trade fair the demand for amber

when the prices go back to the realistic level, the clients

was very big and the prices were increasing even faster

from Europe will come back to us. They stopped buying

than before. The intermediaries took advantage of this

amber products due to the prices being so high that it was

and forced producers to buy small fractions mixed with

impossible to sell the products further”.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

TOPICALITIES

AMBER ONLINE shopping By Odilija GUNTORIUTE

he Baltic Jewellery News decided to do a little

antique designs – all these products from Baltic States,

research on amber online shopping. We looked

China, USA, UK, India and many other countries in one

through three main online shopping websites:

platform. It is a customers choice to either buy the item

ebay.com, amazon.com and etsy.com.

now for the high price or to take part in auction and hope

The biggest and widest assortiment of amber can be

that no one will bid higher.

found on ebay.com. But if you are looking for new fash-

It seems that among all amber products the antique

ion design jewellery you should go to etsy.com. Amazon.

art deco amber jewellery is the most popular. Not only it

com has 222 341 results for “amber”, but most of them

has the most bids, ranging from 12 to 40, but also prices

are either baby teething necklases or have nothing to do

ranging from 1000 $ to 30 000 $.

with fossilized tree resin at all.

However, contemporary amber products are not as popular among ebay.com users. Most of the auctions

AMBER ON EBAY.COM

have no bids, and if you are lucky you will get 2–3 bids

Just type in the word “amber” on ebay page and you

per auction. Even top-rated sellers are struggling to sell

will get nearly half a million results. Listings vary from

their production.

raw to fake amber products, from Baltic to Dominican or

Among the listings you can find some very rare prod-

even Indonesian amber, from contemporary jewellery to

ucts. We will give you a few examples:

Premium rare huge blue green amber ball bead sphere collectable Dominican amber from Netherlands. Bidding starts at 11 173.40 EUR, if you want to buy it now you will pay 20 794.44 EUR

www.balticjewellerynews.com

TOPICALITIES Premium rare huge blue green amber ball bead sphere collectable Dominican amber from Netherlands

1998 Baltic amber portrait of Catherine the Great - Catherine II of Russia from Canada. Starting bid 2 235.22 EUR

Natural old antique Chinese honey cognac amber Buddha beads necklace 111.1gr huge from USA. Price 5 215.88 EUR

www.balticjewellerynews.com

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

A TRIUMPHAL RETURN OF amber HOME

Report by Kaliningrad Amber Combine PRESS OFFICE year ago Russia, as a monopolist in extraction

“sun stone” are being established and artists started again

of amber, supplied neighbouring states by the

to create unique artworks of amber in Russia and in par-

Baltic Sea with “sun stone” and did not actually

ticular in the territory of Kaliningrad Region.

process amber within the country. By then, amber in the

Since the beginning of the year in Kaliningrad Region

form of ready-made products ceased to be valued and

there have been established approximately a thousand

used in great demand there. The market was mostly fo-

of new workplaces related to the field of amber. Today,

cused on realization of raw material.

approximately 3 thousand of employees are employed

However, amber has become a national wealth in

in the field of production of amber products considering

Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and some other countries.

that in 2013 the number of employees was more than 2

Popularity of amber and love for it have developed into a

thousand. And the rate is just increasing.

creation of a numerous amounts of brands, starting with

Taking into consideration the pace of development of

tourist routes and worldwide known exhibitions and end-

the field and the amount of production, which is being

ing with using the word “amber” in the names of organi-

produced at Kaliningrad Amber Combine and other com-

zations, foods, cosmetics and even in female and male

panies operating in the field of amber, it becomes obvi-

names, not mentioning modern and stylish decorations

ous that the number of employees mentioned above is

made of “sun stone”.

not sufficient. That is why the Strategy of development of the field of amber in Russian Federation for the period

A RETURN OF AMBER HOME AND A REBIRTH OF ITS INDUSTRY

up to 2021 provides for establishment additional workplaces, the number of which is not less than 4,5 thousand.

Of course, a proper tribute must be given to the

Kaliningrad Amber Combine is the main production place

neighbouring states by the Baltic Sea for their love to

for the preparation of employees in this area.

amber and its popularity among the people. In many cas-

Young people are getting into the field of amber.

es because of their large-scale projects and dedication for

Taking Amber Combine as an example, it may be said

all what concerns “sun stone” the entire world knows this

that the age of employees is becoming younger, i.e. in

wonderful gift of nature.

2013 the average age of employees exceeded 47 years

However, the situation has changed since last year

and in 2014 the average age of new employees was 35.

as all raw material extracted by Amber Combine remains

Approximately 120 new workplaces have been established

within the country and there has started a fashion on

in the company including its subsidiary Open JSC “Amber

amber in Russia. Now it can be stated that amber is return-

Juvelirprom”. Almost 50 employees finished trainings on

ing home in glory. New manufacturings for processing of

additional specialties. Moreover, the salary of employees

www.balticjewellerynews.com

It is obvious that the target is going to be difficult as it is to restore a brand of amber in Kaliningrad Region, i.e.

tion of the reserve of employees. Work in the company,

the region, which possesses 90 percent of world resource

which is unique in the world in the field of extraction of

of “sun stone” should become a global capital of process-

amber is considered to be prestigious and interesting as

ing amber and a legislator in this area.

well as in the industry of amber in general.

One of the first stages in this field has become trad-

The list of orders given by the President of Russian

ing of raw material in home market. In 2014, 100 per-

Federation Vladimir Putin to reduce to order the indus-

cent of realization of amber stock from Amber Combine

try of amber was a start for considerable reformation of

is being implemented to home market in accordance

the system which had not been changing for years and

with the orders of local companies and entrepreneurs.

even decades. The changes involved all target areas from

Furthermore, in order to avoid all possible speculations

the stage of extraction and modernization of production

and resale of amber, there were checked all productions

at Amber Combine, rules of distribution of raw material

which are supplied with raw material. There has been

among those that can remake it, and tightening the pen-

made a “so-called” card about each participant of amber

alties for illegal extraction to positioning of “sun stone” as

market which includes information on the amount of pro-

a wealth of Kaliningrad Region and entire Russia as well.

duction and capacity of manufacturing; also, it includes

One of the main goals defined by the President of

data about the number of employees, information from

Russia is to warrant the remake of amber within the

tax organs, pension fund, and power structures.

country.

For example, last year the company received 410 orders from remake companies of Kaliningrad for raw amber, in

ORIENTATION TO THE FINAL PRODUCT

total amount which exceeds the amount of extraction, though this does not mean that all of them are real producers; moreover, it does not mean that all of those orders were satisfied. The reason contains not only limited amount of extraction. This requires regulating the flow of such kind of orders eliminating those companies which have never remade amber and are not planning to do that. Also, the goal is to limit unconfirmed and exaggerate requirements in raw materials of some other producers that remake only a part of raw material and resell the rest of it. The principled position of Amber Combine is that all real producers are being supplied with raw material and will be supplied in the future – not resellers but real producers. Only Amber Combine should be engaged in selling of raw material and all other companies should only remake it; and all those that want to develop their amber business ought to recognize these rules. At the time individual entrepreneurs or companies that produce the products of amber have equal rights for

ONLY AMBER COMBINE SHOULD BE ENGAGED IN SELLING OF RAW MATERIAL and all other companies should

being supplied with raw material. The amount of supplied raw material depends on the rates of production of each single producer and other criteria which are mentioned

only remake it

above and characterize manufacture. As for the external market, the position still remains

Today the keynote is made on the development of the

steady as all foreign companies remaking amber and

final product, i.e. ready products of amber, in the first

desiring to work with Kaliningrad amber are welcome to

instance made in the territory of Kaliningrad Region and

the territory of Russian exclave in order to establish united

Russia as well.

companies. And there is the first positive experience.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

has increased by 20 percent, what is above the average salary in the region. Also, there is a programme for forma-

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

TECHNICAL REVOLUTION IN AMBER INDUSTRY

Kaliningrad Region possesses 90 percent of world resource of “sun stone”

Scientists who work in the largest research institutions

of coal is little effective as a rather considerable amount of

of the state have studied the possibilities of long-time

amber remains not being extracted from blue clay. For the

equipment which is used in Amber Combine at the time

times when this technology was installed it was consid-

of extraction and stroke out a new technique which will

ered as an advanced technology. But decades have passed

allow increasing the amount and quality of extraction of

and the equipment has not been changed.

amber. Currently, the latest research-industrial equipment

Today the company has to cope with such a thing that

for an extraction complex is being studied and before

a large amount of amber crumbles, a lot of big stones

long the technology will be implemented into the major

fragment and crack during the process of extraction.

production. There are no analogues of such a complex in

Accordingly, not all stone remains in its original state. The

the world.

amount of amber above 16th fraction makes not more

Engineers have always stated that a present method

than 80 tons from the total amount of extraction (in 2013

for extraction of amber which is transferred from the field

there were extracted 280 tons of “sun stone”). The goal is to retain the original state of amber at the maximum in order it would get into the hands of an artist in such a state as it was in the depths of the ground while passing all the stages of extraction. “Aroma” of experimental-industrial installation with the length of 50 metres and weight of more than 200 tons, which is assembled in modules like a construction set, is a technique of separation of amber and sand or clay in the mode of intense vibrations as in a washing machine. The technology requires only two or three cubic metres of water which significantly reduces energy consumption and the strain on the environment. There is no doubt that modern technologies will meet their requirements to preserve unique samples of amber and to protect a fragile “sun stone” from adverse effects

“Kaliningrad Amber Combine” youth team in tournament

of rough techniques.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Tourist attraction Primorskij pit

Kaliningrad Amber Combine, the only company in the

chase branded jewelry of Amber Combine and souvenirs

world which extracts “sun stone” in industrial scales, is

and to have a lot of unforgettable feelings and emotions.

located on the coast of the Baltic Sea in the village of

INTERNATIONAL FORUM-EXHIBITION OF PRODUCTS WHICH CONTAIN AMBER “AMBER WORLD KALININGRAD”

Yantarnyj. It is a place where a path of one of the most amazing creations of nature, a symbol of Kaliningrad region and the heritage of the entire country, i.e. Baltic amber, begins.

One of the most significant events in the field of

Amber is a symbol of Kaliningrad Region. Every year

amber is the upcoming international forum “Amber

hundreds of thousands of tourists come here from all

World Kaliningrad”. It will become a leader in the devel-

parts of Russia and various countries of the world in order

opment of the direction of amber and will demonstrate

to take a look at a “visiting-card” of the land of Amber.

the best achievements of local and foreign producers of

For many years, the company is one of the best organ-

amber products.

izations of tourism industry in Kaliningrad Region and is in

The exhibition will take place in Kaliningrad region

the lead for annual ratings in the visits of tourists.

on 17–19 October, 2014, and will be supported by the

A unique tourism programme, “One day with a sun

Government and Amber Combine.

stone”, is developed for visitors, during which tourists are

An excellent feature of the event is that it will combine

provided with extensive information about amber and

an efficient programme of the international level with the

methods of its extraction and are told legends and inter-

exhibition of the best amber products and collections of a

esting historical details using an interactive format.

world’s jewelry field.

Tourists come to a survey site of Amber Combine with

The participants of the exhibition will be given a

a great interest as there is a view at the world’s largest

unique possibility to get to know legendary exhibits of

open pit, Primorskij pit, where amber is extracted. Here,

world museums, producers and artists, to make meaning-

there is a possibility to try on medieval outfits, to feel the

ful contracts with the producers of jewelry and to discuss

connection of times from the Teutonic Order up to the

the conditions of the supply of raw material with Amber

present day, and to find own piece of amber in a “blue

Combine as well.

ground” as well. Also, there is an Amber Pyramid; it is a

We invite all interested persons to visit a forum-

unique structure made of 800 kg of a “sun stone”.

exhibition “Amber World Kaliningrad” and the Land of

While being here, visitors have an opportunity to pur-

Amber!

www.balticjewellerynews.com

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER COMBINE IS ONE OF THREE MOSTLY VISITED TOURISM OBJECTS IN THE REGION

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

MERIT OF THE NEW MANAGEMENT – JSC Amber Yuvelirprom can be proud of new export relationships Report by JSC Amber Yuvelirprom PRESS OFFICE

is widely known that SUE Kaliningrad Amber

such as General Director Stepan Nikolaev, Deputy General

Combine is the only extraction business in the

Director Ekaterina Mashutova and Adviser to General

amber industry of Russia! And, that the tide of

Director Vadim Vodopianov, which gave rise to dramatic

changes set on after President Vladimir Putin requested

changes. After the new management got settled, the en-

that the amber industry be decriminalized and upgrad-

terprise flagged definite shifts for the better. This year JSC

ed. One year ago the combine was transferred under

Amber Yuvelirprom celebrates its 10th anniversary. In this

the management of State Corporation Rostec. However,

connection we would like to bring to your attention a

few people are aware of existence of its 100% sub-

brief summary of what the new managers have achieved

sidiary – JSC Amber Yuvelirprom, wherein the staff has

and explore the plans for future development of the

changed as well. New managers have taken the lead,

enterprise.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

fruit. The average wage has been up from 367.41 EUR to 622.91 EUR. From January to June of last year, the company transferred 222104.63 EUR of taxes, and this year’s figure has been 483755.50 EUR. Due to growing output JSC Amber Yuvelirprom has opened two new outlets of its proprietary chain: in the Khrabrovo airport, at the departure lounge of domestic routes, and in the town of Svetlogorsk. – “We have done our best to represent the diverse trends in items and jewelry. It is out wish that the product range we offer could satisfy everybody. Here you can find a gift for any person, be it a man or a woman, and for any occasion whatsoever, whether as a commemoration of holidays or just a creative souvenir. Since we manufacture everything ourselves, we have made our products most affordable, provided the minimal extra charge,”– explains Stepan Nikolaev, General Director of JSC Amber Yuvelirprom. We would also like to highlight the dynamic develOpening ceremony of the new store. Mikhail Zatsepin, General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Combine and Stepan Nikolayev, General Director of JSC Amber Yuvelirprom

opment of export relationships. As of now, JSC Amber Yuvelirprom has existing contracts with the European and Baltic states, China and Japan. An entire business area of amber carving that deals in creation of highly artistic items wrought in Oriental and European styles. The new

Over the past year, we have elaborated the business

items enjoy huge demand on the global market.

development strategy, acquired new equipment and machinery, introduced new manufacturing processes.

The company’s management intends to reach new

Young artisans who love what they do have regularly

heights and has been applying every effort to expand

been replenishing the lines of specialists working with

the enterprise and the entire amber industry further. We

the sunstone. The business has been expanding and new

have been focused on wholesaling of finished products

staff members have been recruited. One year back from

and high-readiness semi-finished products in the domes-

now, the company’s staff actually totaled 123 employees.

tic and foreign markets. We have plans to win over pro-

Nowadays, the staff strength at JSC Amber Yuvelirprom

fessionals with higher artistic education and experience

has been 174 people and it is planned to increase the

of working with amber and jewelry, engage into coop-

staff numbers up to 250. We are still lacking artisans, but

eration the designers for the purpose of model range

young professionals do show up and the average age of

development for the enterprise, boost the output of jew-

workers has been decreasing. This is particularly the case

elry items without amber and relaunch the gold products

for the art-and-craft department, where all artisans are

shop, open representative offices and trade outlets in

below 30 and have already gained the reputation of high-

other regions to improve coordination with the customers

ly skilled professionals who demonstrate the unique vision

and promote wholesale!

of amber and do offer their own concepts for new items. It is noteworthy that the enterprise management is well-prepared to nurture their own professionals. To make this possible, artisans have been trained and advanced training courses have been taught for employees of JSC Amber Yuvelirprom at the premises of Vocational School of Arts & Industry.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

Yet a year ago, the enterprise was in the crunch, but the managerial efforts have already been providing their

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

In total, 499 works were presented to the international jury. Works were evaluated according to the following nominations: “Mastery in Creation of Artistic Image”, “Skill of Execution”, “Experiment”, “Of the Flame and Light...” – a special nomination dedicated to the 200th anniversary of M. Lermontov; “Spirit of Fire” – a special

ALL-RUSSIAN Contest 2014

nomination dedicated to the Winter Olympic Games in Sochi. Grand Prix has gone to Olga Rumyantseva from Kostroma – for her beads “Spring” made of silver and phianites using hot enamel. “Laureate” title was given to Aleksandr Rumyantsev (Kostroma), Sultanachmet

Press Release by Irina KLIMOVICH

The

Magamedaliev

(Makhachkala),

Georgiy

Pashkov

(Togliatti). The following artists from Kaliningrad became Kaliningrad Regional Amber Museum

the contest award winners: Lyudmila Vysotskaya, Olga

has held the Second All-Russian

Zholonkovskaya, Aleksandr Korolev, Natalia Lapinus,

Competition of Jewellery Art, cov-

Zhanna Lopatkina, Vera Nodel, members of the artis-

ering: a competitive exhibition of art works, a seminar

tic association “Prussky Miod (Prussian Honey)” – Lana

“Integration of Jewellery with Contemporary Art and Design.

Egorova, Aleksandr Yuritsyn and Lyudmila Kravchenko.

Challenges and Benefits”, an educational programme, held

“The competitive exposition excellently reveals nation-

by leading experts and specialists for majors and young art-

al traditions, rooted in past centuries,” has noted the con-

ists, and publication of the catalogue. This large-scale pro-

test juror Pierre-Marie Bernard, artist, jeweller, Honoured

ject has been of special importance and prestige for taking

President of the State Federation of Artistic Crafts and

place in the same year of the Winter Olympic Games in

Creativity, director of the committee “Franceclat”, teacher

Sochi, the Year of Culture in Russia, on the eve of another

of jewellery art in the school “BJO Formation” (France).

major event – the First International Amber Forum “AMBER

“Russia is a huge country where diverse nationalities live.

WORLD” which will be held soon in Kaliningrad.

Demonstration of their creative work in the jewellery con-

The contest has attracted 124 artists-jewellers from 1ę

test is very interesting and important.”

cities of the country – Yekaterinburg, Kazan, Kaliningrad,

Jury member Irina Perfilyeva, senior research scientist

Kostroma, Krasnodar, Nizhny Tagil, Makhachkala, Moscow,

of the Research Institute of Theory and History of Fine

Rostov-on-Don, Samara, St. Petersburg, Togliatti and

Arts of the Russian Academy of Arts, candidate of his-

Yaroslavl. Curators were the leading specialists of cultural

tory of arts, member of the Union of Russian Artists, has

and educational institutions of the contest member-cities,

emphasized the importance of such events, which, in her

including museums of fine arts of Nizhny Tagil and Rostov,

opinion, are a powerful incentive for artists, their motiva-

the State Museum of Fine Arts of Tatarstan Republic,

tion to regular creative work.

Krasnoselskoe Artistic Metalworking School – the branch

“On the one hand, there is a competitive spirit,” she

of Moscow State Stroganov Academy of Industrial

said, “on the other hand, there is a lively exchange of

and Applied Arts, the “Sharonovs’ School” of Togliatti

views, opinions, concepts going on. Thus, a “nourish-

State University, and St. Petersburg State University of

ing” environment for the development of jewellery art is

Technology and Design.

formed.”

The winner in the nomination “Skill of Execution”. Buckle (silver, black alloy, engraving) by Sultanahmet MAGAMEDALIEV, Makhachkala

Grand Prix of the Contest. Beads “Spring” by Olga RUMYANTSEVA, Kostroma

www.balticjewellerynews.com

The Kaliningrad Amber Museum invites artists to take part in the international biennale of author amber works

concentration of creative energy within the Amber region,

“Alatyr” that will be opened in the second half of June 2015.

in the Amber Museum cannot but give a result.

This creativity competition will take place for the sixth time;

“Anyone who saw that splendour presented in the

the first one was held in 2005, Since then, it pulls together

contest exhibition will definitely agree with me,” said

artists, scientists, heads of the leading European museums

Elena Koshemchuk. “I’m sure, it was difficult for the jury

every two years. These meetings are of highly importance:

to select the best work. Holding such a competition is

they give birth to new creative ideas, there an exchange

highly important for the cultural life of Kaliningrad region.

of knowledge takes place, contacts are established. The

It demonstrates the development trends of Russian jewel-

competition traditionally involves up to ten countries, and

lery art, gives us the opportunity to see creations of the

not only the Baltic region, where amber has been consid-

best native artists, to learn about what is going on today

ered exclusive since the old days. The “amber circle” also

in this field. I’d like to draw attention to the well-organ-

includes artists from France, Italy.

ised educational and scientific part of this project. We also hope that the competitive exhibition will become a new

Kaliningrad Regional Amber Museum

incentive for the tourist attraction of the region.”

236016, Kaliningrad, Marshal Vasilevsky Sq. 1 tel./fax: (4012) 466 550, 466 888

Minister for Industrial Policy, Enterprise Development and Trade of Kaliningrad region, Dmitriy Chemakin, who

e-mail: office@ambermuseum.ru

has attended the opening ceremony of the contest, high-

www.ambermuseum.ru

lights the role of the Amber Museum as the project initiator. He has even proposed to create a new title of honour “The Soul of Amber” and to award it to Director of the

KALININGRAD OBLAST (RUSSIAN FEDERATION)

Museum Tatiana Suvorova. “This contest is a leading light for those, who are beginning to work with the gemstone, for students

Administrative center Kaliningrad Official language Russian Currency Ruble (RUB); 1 EUR – 48.41 RUB Time zone (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 15 100 km2 Population (2013) 954 978 Government Federal semi-presidential republic Governor Nikolay Tsukanov President Vladimir Putin GDP (PPP) Per capita 15 570 EUR Ethnic groups Latvia 86.4% Russians 13.6% Others Lithuania Largest cities KALININGRAD OBLAST Kaliningrad 431 100

of Kaliningrad Art and Industrial College, and young authors,” said Dmitriy Chemakin. “Artists need to create beauty, to show it. While our task is to introduce their inventions to industrial production, to mass-produce, to give jobs to people and taxes – to the state.” During the grand ceremony the museum was awarded too – it received the honorary award of Carl Fabergé Memorial Fund – the Order of Michael Evlampiyevich Perkhin “for outstanding achievements in the promotion of the Russian jewellery art in connection with the 200th anniversary of the birth of Gustav Karlovich Faberge.” Valentin Skurlov, art treasures assessor of the Ministry of Culture and

(Russian Federation)

Chernyakhovsk 51 771 Sovetsk 42 619

Mass Communications of the Russian Federation, scientific secretary of the Carl Fabergé Memorial Fund, has handed

Belarus Poland

out the award to Director of the Museum Tatiana Suvorova. The winner in the nomination “Skill in Creation of Artistic Image”. Jewellery set for women – bracelet and necklace (silver; hand-engraved) by Aleksandr RUMYANTSEV, Kostroma

The winner in the nomination “Experiment”. Cutlery “Hephaestus’ Games” (bronze; casting) by Georgiy PASHKOV, Togliatti

www.balticjewellerynews.com

KALININGRAD REGION RF JEWELLERY REPORT

The First Deputy of the Minister of Culture of Kaliningrad region, Elena Koshemchuk, has noted that so powerful

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

TRENDS AND PROSPECTS FOR JEWELLERY MARKET IN POLAND Report by EUROMONITOR International TRENDS

the review period. The weaker review period was strongly

Over the review period (2008â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2013) jewellery began

influenced by the poor economic situation in the country

to be perceived not only as a sign of wealth, but also as a

and rather high gold prices in 2009â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2010.

fashionable accessory that is worn to match specific out-

Fine jewellery posted high increases in 2013 at 9% in

fits and manufacturers tried make their products more

current value terms and 5% in volume terms. Growing

interesting to end consumers by using a variety of materi-

interest in fine jewellery and a shift towards more expen-

als, such as wood and plastic, and shapes, such as squares

sive stones positively influenced the category.

and rings.

Fashion jewellery also recorded positive performances

The 8% retail value growth in 2013 was faster than

in 2013, at 2% in volume and 3% in current value terms.

the 6% CAGR (compound annual growth rate) noted over

The number of outlets selling these products increased,

www.balticjewellerynews.com

fine and fashion jewellery

POLISH JEWELLERY MARKET RETAIL VALUE

and online sales developed. Many brick-and-mortar stores saw potential in internet sales and began selling

mn EUR

their products online (e.g. Parfois). Thanks to new loca-

800

tions opening in smaller cities of the country, more con-

700

sumers have the opportunity to purchase fashion jewellery. Moreover, popular apparel stores, such as H&M and

600

Reserved, constantly widen their assortments of jewellery

500

and sell it at affordable prices.

400

Gold jewellery was the most popular, accounting

300

for 46% of retail value sales in 2013. Consumers usually choose yellow and white gold; however, they are begin-

200

ning to buy gold in other colours, such as pink, green, and

100

blue. Gold products are still perceived as traditional and

2012

2013

Poland Jewellery

are the first choice when it comes to choosing engage-

2014

Poland Fashion Jewellery

Poland Fine Jewellery

ment or marriage rings and chains. Silver accounted for

Forecast

37% of retail value sales. It is usually chosen by younger

Geographies

Categories

2012

2013

2014

ellery unit prices is expected over the forecast period.

Poland

Jewellery

10,3

10,6

10,9

Poland

Costume Jewellery

7,7

7,8

8,1

Poland

Real Jewellery

2,7

2,8

www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Over the forecast period 2013–2018 IMPROVING DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS AND THE LAUNCH OF NEW STORES beyond the largest cities of the country will lead to CONSUMERS BUYING MORE

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Mining on Holocene deposits, Gdańsk

Amber Deposits IN POLAND Amber accumulations in Poland are related

In eastern Poland, in the Lublin Upland (the so-called

to Palaeogene (66–22 Mya) and Quaternary

Parczew Delta), Palaeogene amber bearing sediments are

formations-secondary

the

located in many areas at an average depth of 20–30 m.

periods of glaciation and when the Baltic Sea

deposits

from

Documented in 1980–1990, the Górka Lubartowska depos-

coastline formed (the last 11,000 years). In

it covers less than 200 ha and is estimated at 1088 tonnes of

recent years mined to a limited extent, today

amber with an average yield of 377 g/m2. The Lublin depos-

they are the focus of interest of the amber

its are similar to the deposit in Ukraine’s Klesiv area (the so-

industry and investors who are planning to

called Klesiv Delta), but situated at a greater depth. Amber

launch extraction. Are we approaching a time

outcrops have also been documented in many other locali-

of independence from the Kaliningrad Region

ties in the Lublin Upland, in a triangle between the towns

supply? Everything indicates that this is exactly

of Parczew, Lubartów and Radzyń, but they have not been

what will happen in the coming years.

explored sufficiently. Estimates on the amber resources in this region amount to as much as 250,000 tonnes.

By Michał KOSIOR

The Polish Palaeogene deposits are considered poorly explored and geologists estimate that we can expect new

THE PALAEOGENE

discoveries in many more locations across Poland.

In northern Poland, the Chłapowo area is best explored, with amber-bearing sediments at a depth

THE QUATERNARY

between 60 and 130 m (the so-called Chłapowo-Sambia

Quaternary (Holocene) amber accumulations are

Delta). The deposit from more than 40 million years ago

found in deposits which had been brought by the glacier

developed on the Delta’s Polish side in a sea which had

and glacial rivers from Palaeogene formations, mainly the

its northern coast near Gdańsk. Core sample tests indi-

Chłapowo-Sambia Delta sediments. The following depos-

cate that this part of the hypothetical River Eridanos Delta

its have been discovered and mined: Górki Zachodnie,

is a continuation of the eastern part currently mined at

Sobieszewo, Wisłoujście, Wiślinka, Sztutowo (all of them

Yantarny, Kaliningrad Zone. They have a different depth

within Gdańsk city limits or a short distance eastwards). In

of deposition: from Gdańsk towards Karwia the deposit is

many of these places, extraction was operated illegally. In

located at a depth of ca. 90–120 m. Based on core analy-

recent years, amber deposit prospecting and exploration

sis, geologists have estimated the deposit at more than

are carried out, based on licenses on private and Gdańsk

600,000 tonnes of amber. The amber bearing deposits

municipality-owned land. Amber outcrops are also found

from the Delta’s central part-after the Baltic Sea had

on Baltic beaches and several kilometres inland, in fossil

formed-were removed entirely in the glacial period and

beach deposits. These secondary deposits also come from

taken south by the glacier. Today, the Bay of Gdańsk is

the glacial period and the time when the Baltic coastline

where these deposits used to be.

was formed.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Mining on Holocene deposits, Gdańsk

The 18th and 19 th centuries saw the especially inten-

An amber fisher on the Baltic coast

Poland’s western border (the Szczecin Lowland) through

sive mining of secondary deposits, which had been

the Central Coast of the Baltic and the Gdańsk area.

transported by the glacier and rivers to the River Narew

Three companies are exploring in the Lubartowski Poviat

basin (Kurpie and Mazury Plains), the Tuchola Forest and

(Parczew Delta), other are expected to submit licence

throughout all of northern Poland where fragments of

applications soon.

the Palaeogene deposit brought in by the glacier had

In June 2014, the Lubelskie Voivodship Marshal’s

been found. The best known example is the documented

Office presented a list of plots located on the Górka

Możdżanowo deposit near Słupsk, where the amber layer

Lubartowska deposit. Almost 80 ha are about to be leased

is located at a depth of ca. 11 metres.

out in the autumn for amber prospecting, exploration

The Baltic Sea has always been the place to get amber.

and production. Importantly for the Polish amber indus-

It is estimated that each year several tonnes of amber are

try, on 31 July 2014 a Letter of Intent was signed on the

found on Baltic beaches.

collaboration in researching and documenting of amber deposits in the Parczew Poviat. The letter was signed by

THE PRESENT

the local governments of the Parczew Poviat, the nearby

Raw amber production in post-World War II Poland

gminas (municipalities), the representatives of the Amber.

was focused mainly within the city limits of Gdańsk and

Treasure of Poland Consortium, the International Amber

eastwards. In the 1970s, several teams working with the

Association and the City of Gdańsk. The signatories are

Bursztyny Co-operative successfully extracted amber from

interested in launching raw amber production in Parczew,

shallow Holocene deposits using the hydraulic method.

Lubartów and Radzyń Poviats. Based on 2008 surveys,

After years of no operation, after the year 2000 produc-

the Polish Geological Institute estimates that as much

tion was resumed in localities near Gdańsk—Wiślinka and

as 250,000 tonnes of amber can be deposited there at a

Sztutowo—on land leased from private owners.

depth of 20–30 m. However, this survey is not sufficiently

In 2007, the Mayor of Gdańsk signed an order allow-

detailed, which is why production cannot be launched

ing the lease of municipal land for the exploration and

without more thorough research.

production of amber deposits. Since that time, we have

There is talk of “an amber rush” in the Parczew area.

seen ever greater simplification in the process of awarding

The prices of land have clearly gone up and landowners

amber prospecting licences. New tenders are scheduled

have begun to put a greater value on their property. It is all

for August 2014, concerning amber-bearing plots within

the more satisfying that the local authorities have decided

the Gdańsk city limits. Today, in order to begin such an

to partner with the amber industry rather than unknown

operation you need: a contract with the landowner, a

investors with promises of an Eldorado. Therefore, there

geological survey plan and the subsequent land reclama-

is a clear opening for Poland’s amber industry to become

tion plan. Next to the land lease fee, the main charge is

independent from raw amber supplies from abroad. The

the tax per each kilogram of produced raw amber at PLN

Lublin Upland has the opportunity to become an impor-

10 (ca. EUR 2.5).

tant amber sourcing location and a processing centre, as

At present, 30 companies hold amber prospecting

information campaigns and local community activation

licences. The licence-covered plots are situated from

programmes are now in the pipeline.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Mining on Holocene deposits, Gdańsk

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Lucky seven – JUBINALE 2014 Press Release by Jubinale PRESS OFFICE

he 7th edition of the Summer Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair JUBINALE, which was held in Krakow from 5th to 7th of June 2014, has proved

to be lucky in every respect. The seventh edition of Jubinale was held under the

patronage of The International Amber Association, The Association of Jewellery Experts and Polish Craft Association. This years’ Jubinale impressed exhibitors and visitor with the comfort of work at the new fairgrounds of EXPO Krakow and breathed optimism for the future, thanks to

the opening day of the exhibition, was particularly suc-

the record number of visitors (also from abroad) and suc-

cessful in terms of trading. In 2014, the number of exhibi-

cessful transactions..

tors has grown too – the summer offer of jewellery and

Further development of Jubinale and a very good

watches was presented by 147 companies from 10 coun-

feedback from exhibitors on the preparation and organi-

tries. We hope that this increasing trend will continue for

zation of the event, indicate a success and a good prog-

the next few years.

nosis for the future. During three days, Jubinale was visited by the total of

At Jubinale, exhibitors have presented a wide range of

almost 3000 visitors from 25 different countries – this is

products, from almost all segments of the industry:

 gold and silver jewellery, amber jewellery, watches,

a significant increase, compared with last year. Thursday,

precious stones, designer jewellery, lifestyle and fashion jewellery, machines, tools, components and boxes.

 which allowed buyers to stock up their galleries, boutiques, stores and studios before the summer season.. During the event, the visitors could see the following:

 exhibition of Gallery of Art in Legnica, which presented pieces taking part in Legnica Festival of Silver 2014

 exhibition of jewellery of STFZ (Goldsmithing Artists’ Association) The first two days of the fair were designated for jewellery trade members only, while the third and final day could have been visited by general public – this fact has remained unchanged. On the last day, tourist and residents of Krakow had a unique opportunity to see and buy jewellery and gifts. They could also take an advantage of a free advice of trade experts in the repair, maintenance and valuation of jewellery and precious stones.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

LEGNICA after silver culmination

Press Release by LEGNICA Jewellery Festival Silver his year for the 35th time in Legnica takes place

Foundation, International Amber Association, Six Group

Legnica SILVER Festival. The Festival, next to

and WFP Herfa.

SCHMUCK, is one of the bigest contemporary art

The winner of Grand Prix (15,000 PLN), founded again

jewellery overviews in Europe. Between 16th and 17th of

by the Minister of Culture and National Heritage, was

May, during culmination of the Festival, twenty exhibi-

Daniel Michel (Germany), who also received the Award of

tions were inaugurated, where over 1000 objects of con-

Six Group (B. Bytomski, P. Kaczyński, K. Roszkiewicz, M.

temporary jewellery and design by 500 artists all over the

Tymiński, A. Wolski). The runners-up prize by the Marshall

world were presented. Apart from openings of the exhibi-

of the Lower Silesia Province (5,000 PLN) was meant for

tions with participation of authors, curators and general

Sungho Cho (South Korea). Unfortunately both winners

public, the session, films screenings and happenings in

weren’t present in Legnica, but the audience had the

downpour rain took place. Every day of the Festival had

opportunity to watch short movies with their speeches. The 3rd Prize founded by the Mayor of the Legnica

its music accents in the form of Agata Zubel’s recital and jazz concert of Duologia Group.

City (3,000 PLN) received Ferràn Iglesias (Spain). Equally valuable were the other rewards, especially granulated sil-

Jewellery design devotees from the countries of Europe (the Netherlands, Spain, Italy, Germany, Great Britain,

ver, after which the Festival was named. The Director of

Slovakia, Czech, Lithuania) and also from Colombia and

Gallery of Art in Legnica handed three prizes: Elisabetta

Australia came to Legnica to take part in the Festival's

Duprè (Italy) received the Award of the Gallery of Art

final, as did the representatives of the most prominent

in Legnica – solo exhibition with catalogue, Heike Walk

Polish academic goldsmithing centres – Gdańsk and

(Germany) – the Organizers’ Special Award for creative

Łódź. The works of professors and students from that

courage and uncompromising attitude, innovation or

Academies were presented at Silver Schools exhibitions.

sense of humour “Silver Spur” and Herman Hermsen (The

In Legnica were also representatives of JUBINALE Summer

Netherlands) – Honourable Mention of the Director of the

Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair and Inhorgenta Munich,

Gallery of Art in Legnica.

media, Polish and European art galleries and jewellery and

The other awards and mentions beyond the com-

design-promoting institutions.

petence of the jury went to: Aneta Lis-Marcinkiewicz

Inauguration of the 23rd International Jewellery

(Poland) – Joachim Sokólski Award established by the Polish

Competition CLASSIC show finalized the festival. The total

Modern Art Foundation, Stephanie Hensle (Germany) –

value of the cash and prize awards came to ca. 43,000

Inhorgenta Munich Award – free stand at Inhorgenta

PLN. The prizes were handed over by Robert Kropiwnicki

Munich 2015 and Honourable Mention of Goldsmithing

MP on behalf of the Minister of Culture and National

Artists’ Association, Andrzej Szadkowski (Poland) –

Heritage, Michał Huzarski on behalf of the Marshall of

prize gift of the HEFRA Company, Karol Weisslechner

Lower Silesia, Dorota Purgal, the Vice-President of Legnica,

(Slovakia) – Honourable Mention of International Amber

Cecylia Ewa Stankiewicz, CEO, on behalf of the Polish

Association, Judy McCaig (Scotland) – Award of Polish

Copper Foundation, Director of Gallery of Art in Legnica

Jewellery – advertisement in Polish Jewellery catalogue,

and the representatives of the remaining prize founders:

Jarosław Westermark (Poland) – Award of YES Gallery

Inhorgenta Munich, JUBINALE Summer Jewellery and

and Award of Polish Jewellery – free stand at JUBINALE

Watches Trade Fair, Polish Jewellery, YES Gallery, Polish

Summer Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair 2015.

Goldsmithing Artists' Association, Polish Modern Art

The works of professors and students from that Academies were presented at SILVER SCHOOLS exhibitions www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

GRAND PRIX Award of Six Group – Statuette „SIX” (B. BYTOMSKI, P. KACZYŃSKI, K. ROSZKIEWICZ, M. TYMIŃSKI, A WOLSKI) Daniel MICHEL – Germany Windows Shopping Ring Lion “Danke Horhemann”, photogrammetry, 3D print in polyamid, goldplated, 50 x 35 x 30 mm, 2012 Windows Shopping Ring Flower “Danke Bucherer”, photogrammetry, 3D print in polyamid, goldplated, 45 x 45 x 40 mm, 2012 Windows Shopping Necklace Cross “Danke, Leo Wittwer”, photogrammetry, 3D print in polyamid, goldplated, 80 x 15 x 15 mm, 2012

2 ND AWARD OF THE MARSHALL OF THE LOWER SILESIA PROVINCE Sungho CHO – South Korea Queen Elisabeth brooch, silver, recycled plastic, 100 x 100 x 30 mm, 2013

3RD AWARD OF THE MAYOR OF THE LEGNICA CITY Ferran IGLESIAS – Spain Necklace, gold 750ct, carneol, 29 x 900 mm, 2012–2013

www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBERMART th

The 15 International Amber Fair

AMBERMART closes, its spirit of art and culture will move to Mariacka Street, to the organic scenery of one of the most beautiful streets of old

Press Release by Ambermart PRESS OFFICE

Gdańsk where many amber studios and galleries are located. From 17:00

lmost 160 Polish and in-

countries, mainly from the EU but

hrs onwards, almost each town-

ternational companies will

also from China, Russia and Arab

house entrance terrace (perron) will

present

products,

countries. AMBERMART is a meeting

feature concerts, art previews, work-

mainly amber and silver jewellery and

opportunity for manufacturers and

shops and meetings with artists. We

valuables, at the 15th AMBERMART

the international buyers who come

invite you to this event on behalf of

International Amber Fair. The Fair is

to re-stock after the summer season

Mariacka Street’s hosts and the pro-

their

open to the general public so that

with a view to the December holi-

ject’s

the work of jewellery makers can

day sales peak. This is when many

Amber Association and the MTG SA

be seen not only by buyers from the

companies travel to present their

Gdańsk International Fair Co.

world over but also by the local com-

products at jewellery trade shows in

munity. As always, AMBERMART will

Italy, France, the UK or Hong Kong,

feature a mini art gallery with paint-

but some of them arrange their

ing, drawing, graphics and ceramics

meetings here in Gdańsk, which is

from the artists of Poland’s region of

a source of extreme satisfaction to

Pomerania.

us and it is for them that we prepare

We look forward to having

The fourth edition of the Mariacka

& Convention Centre, Żaglowa 11,

Street Festival – this time under the

Gdańsk, Poland, on 28–30 August.

banner of: Mariacka Unplugged

In 2013, the Fair had a footfall

the International

a welcoming milieu.

you at the AMBEREXPO Exhibition

of more than 3000 visitors from 31

partners:

–

promises

truly

remark-

able. On Saturday, August 30, when

Opening hours: Thursday–Friday 10:00–18:00 Saturday 10:00–17:00

non-trade visitors | admission: PLN 10

trade visitors | register at: https://ambermart.exposupport.pl/visitor/register

www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Nina KUPNIEWSKA and Dario DALESSANDRO surprised by the jury’s verdict

AMBERIF DESIGN AWARD 2014 Press Release by Amberif PRESS OFFICE

Design AwArd was their first jewellery design challenge. Before this year’s ADA, they did conceptual work on func-

he amber tampon by Nina Kupniewska and Dario

tional objects, mainly lamps.

Dalessandro has won the Amberif Design Award

“The jury’s verdict made us very happy. And it was their

2014 Grand Prize. There were 143 entries from

decision that impressed me the most. Time and again I

18 countries that came in reply to the competition topic:

watched competitions in Poland and there would always

MATERIA PRIMA. The ADA competition was held for the

be a problem with strong entries, juries were usually reluc-

18th time.

tant to take bold decisions. But here-it worked, I think also

The artists who designed the award-winning amber

because the jury was international,” says Nina Kupniewska.

tampon were surprised by the jury’s verdict. But they

At AMBERIF 2014, Nina Kupniewska and Dario

were even more surprised by the ensuing comments that

Dalessandro presented a collection of silver jewellery

their work was “shocking” and “distasteful,” because to

inspired by the lamps they design.

them the amber tampon should never be taken literally.

“Will your amber tampon designs ever be actually

To them, amber’s Materia Prima reveals itself in two ways:

made or will they forever remain in the conceptual realm?”

both in the beauty of jewellery and in amber’s medicinal

we ask Nina Kupniewska.

qualities, appreciated as early as in the Middle Ages.

“Let that remain a secret. Let me just say that we’re

Nina Kupniewska and Dario Dalessandro are a duo

preparing a surprise for AMBERIF.”

in life and in work. They live in Warsaw. Nina graduated

The Amberif Design Award is an international amber

in interior design from the Polish-Japanese Institute of

jewellery design competition addressed to award-win-

Information Technology, Dario is still in college, also stud-

ning artists, college graduates and young designers alike.

ying interior design. Nina’s father, Andrzej Kupniewski is

It differs from other competitions in that the entries are

a jewellery designer, while Dario Dalessandro comes from

designs, rather than completed productions. Every year,

an Italian family of jewellery-making tradition. Amberif

the artists are given a leitmotif to work on. The only

www.balticjewellerynews.com

The jury had five members: Kim Buck of Denmarkan innovative, award-winning jewellery designer (and chairman of the jury), Caroline Broadhead of the United Kingdom-celebrated designer and BA Jewellery Design Course Leader at Central Saint Martins, University of the

THE GRAND PRIZE

Arts London, Montserrat Lacomba of Spain-blogger and

PLN 10,000, sponsored by Paweł Adamowicz, the Mayor of Gdańsk

renowned jewellery designer, Anna Sado of Poland-trade journalist who specialises in writing about jewellery, co-

Nina Kupniewska, Dario Dalessandro, Warsaw, Poland

developer of the amber.com.pl Amber Portal, and Mariusz Gliwiński, also of Poland, amber jewellery designer, owner of the Ambermoda company, Vice-President of the International Amber Association. Over the years, Amberif Design Award has gained global renown. This is proven not only by the consider-

THE AMBER PRIZE

able interest it generates among artists, over a thousand of whom have sent entries in the 18 years of its existence,

1 kg of amber, sponsored by the International Amber Association

but also by the esteemed members of the ADA jury. “I

Tomasz Jan Kisiel, Gdańsk, Poland

am overjoyed that the Amberif Design Award finds eager participants from all over the world and from esteemed design schools such as Le Arte Orafi of Florence and the Royal Academy of Art in Antwerp. Our competition is the first experience of amber to many of these designers, some of whom have remained faithful to it forever” says Ewa Rachoń, AMBERIF Project Manager.

REPUBLIC OF POLAND EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Official language Polish Currency Złoty (PLN); 1 EUR – 4.21 PLN Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km2 Population (2014) 38 485 779 Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Prime Minister Donald Tusk Latvia GDP (PPP) Per capita (2012) 16 527 EUR Ethnic groups Lithuania 91.6% Poles Kaliningrad Region 8.4% others Belarus Largest cities Warsaw 1 716 855 POLAND Krakov 755 546 Lodz 739 832

1 KG OF SILVER, sponsored by KGHM Polska Miedź SA Maren Giloy, Idar-Oberstein, Germany

Ukraine

www.balticjewellerynews.com

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

requirement is that the artists use Baltic amber to create their artistic vision.

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER TRIP entered a second decade STRONGER THAN EVER Press release by Amber Trip PRESS OFFICE

“I

nternational Baltic Jewellery

Trip. However, this does not mean

Amber Trip invited Acting Director

Show Amber Trip” is get-

that all the issues are in the past. Big

General of Kaliningrad Combine

ting back on its feet. XIth

number of exhibitors are dependent

Mikhail Zatsepin to open an exhibi-

edition was as big as it was before

on supply of amber, which at the

tion and introduced him to exhibitors

economic crisis. “Vilnius became

time of exhibition was unavailable.

and buyers. During the exhibition in

the capital of the Baltic region

Exhibitors were using their last re-

a press konference Mikhail Zatsepin

jewellery, ahead of cities such as

serves. Amber Trip showed its com-

answered questions regarding cur-

Tallinn, Riga, or Kaliningrad.” – says

mitment to help to solve problems in

rent situation and a stratégy of the

Giedrius Guntorius, CEO of Amber

amber market.

Kaliningrad

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Amber

Combine.

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT  The openning ceremony of XIth edition of Amber Trip. Acting Director

General of Kaliningrad Combine Mikhail Zatsepin and CEO of Amber Trip Giedrius Guntorius.

became clear that Kaliningrad Amber

Contest took place. It was won by

Combine is seriously determined

Ruta Jurkunaite-Bruoziene who cre-

to return amber brand to Russia.

ated a very cheerful piece “Optimist”.

Unfortunatelly, these changes have affected the global market.

As always, Amber Trip arranged a great party. Amber Trip is not only

XI edition held not only impor-

about business, its about creat-

tant business meetings, it was a place

ing strong partnerships and relax-

for celebraing amber. During the

ing environment is a best way to

exhibition the “5D” Jewellery Art

strengthen them.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Exhibition has acquired a firm position in the market. This year 120 EXHIBITORS and 200 VIP BUYERS

JOINED EXHIBITION. Totally more than

9000 VISITORS

have bought elegant jewellery at the exhibition

Company name Address (Street, city, country, post code)

Tel. Fax Mob. Tel.

E-mail

Company code

VAT code

Contact person

Stand N°

Product index (please, choose): amber jewellery, silver jewellery, gold jewellery, gemstones, semi – precious stones, equipment, others

Name of service

Price without VAT 1m² (EUR)

Desirable area in the show with a standard stand’s equipment (minimum 6 (six) sq.m.)

87,00

Obligatory record in the show’s catalogue

85,00

Registration fee

87,00

Sub exponent

102,00

Unit

Sum without VAT (EUR)

Sum:

VAT 21%

Total sum:

Sum by words Data

EUR S. P.

UAB “AMBER TRIP” Company code 124044853, VAT code LT240448515 Aušros Vartų 15–8, Vilnius, LT-01129, Lithuania Tel./fax +370 5 2608497 ad@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com

(Position, name, last name, signature)

VENUS GALERIA producer of silver jewellery Poland biuro@galeria.sklep.pl www.galeria.sklep.pl tel. +48 500 232 882

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

very year “Amber Trip” arranges an art contest to present and promote

The members of jury were:

the most interesting achievements of the contemporary art of jewellery

Chairperson –

and to encourage artists to use jewellery as a mode of expression.

Marytė DOMINAITĖ

When presenting the theme Maryte Gureviciene said: “Everyone is well

GUREVIČIENĖ (Lithuania)

aware of 3 dimensions. Each author interprets the additional two dimensions in

Juris GAGAINIS (Latvia)

his/her own way, which, I believe, will provide the contest work with originality

Galina KOVALIOVA (Russia)

and the author – with the pleasure to puzzle his/her brain during the creation

Jaan PARN (Estonia)

process. The theme surely has inspired artists in various surprising ways. Amber

Gedymin JABLONSKI

was combined with incense, sweets and even a cockroach.

GRAND PRIX Ruta Jurkunaite-Bruoziene “Optimist” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

(Poland)

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT II PLACE Deimante Uleviciene “5D” (Lithuania)

III PLACE Irina Latkina “Baltic prawn” (Russia)

PUBLIC VOICE Svajūnas Udrys “Connected” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Ramune Jundaite-Miseviciene “Medalion for odor” (Lithuania)

Ernestas Piliukaitis “Shadow of fear” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Vaida Druskyte “Massage tools” (Lithuania)

Tamara Emsen “5D” (Russia)

Elen Janovskaja “Naltik octopus” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Andrius Gudisauskas “5D Optical” (Lithuania)

Ela Pavinskiene “Dear Lithuania” (Lithuania)

Alisa Zabojeva “Fish stew” (Russia)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Nauris Naslenas “Bliss” (Lithuania)

Marija Mamkajeva “5D” (Russia)

Jolanta Strumskyte “Lost in space” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Roberta Vrubliauskaite “Prince” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Irma Giedrimaite Collection of brooches “Rose” (Lithuania)

Alfredas Algirdas Jonusas “5D” (Lithuania)

Kestutis Stanapedis “Collection for five” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Evgenija Zabojeva “Octopus kingdom on earth” (Rusija)

Viktorija Zubavičiūtė “5D” (Lithuania)

Dalius Razauskas “5D” (Lithuania)

Rūta Nicajene “5D” (Lithuania)

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Simon Grigutis Collection of small plastic “Little Prince Universe” (Lithuania)

Justina Bukantaitė “5D” (Lithuania)

REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Vilnius Official language Lithuanian Currency Lithuanian litas (LTL); 1 EUR – 3.4528 LTL Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 65 200 km2 Population (2014) 2 944 459 Government Parliamentary republic President Dalia Grybauskaite Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevicius GDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 17 947.47 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 83.7% Lithuanians Latvia 16.30% others Largest cities LITHUANIA Vilnius 539 939 Kaliningrad Region Kaunas 304 012 Belarus Klaipėda 157 350

Diana Gladkaja “5D” (Lithuania)

Poland

www.balticjewellerynews.com

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

JEWELLERY BUSINESS and assay control in Latvia Report by ASSAY OFFICE of Latvia

ssay Office of Latvia is the state enterprise since 2010, and is authorized to perform the supervision of precious metals and gemstones in Latvia.

Until 2010 office was a budgetary institution, current sta-

tus as a state enterprise is a result of economical crisis

the amount of laser hallmarking has increased in recent

of 2009-2010.

years. Personal hallmarks can be engraved as well.

Hallmarking of precious metal articles is

compulsory, also there are 4 types of gems – diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, which have to be tested in

JEWELLERY MARKET

compulsory way. All jewellery items containing these

Since recession of 2010-2011, jewellery market has

gems have to be tested, with a tag being attached, identi-

grown quite significantly. Number of companies, which

fying gem (it does not contain any additional information

have declared this kind of activity, is 1006. Number of

like weight of the gem etc.). Full testing with additional

assayed gold articles in 2013 was 658,2 thousand (in 2011

information (weight, colour, clarity, etc.), as well as test-

it was 595,7 thousand). Number of tested articles with

ing of non-compulsory gems is made upon the request of

gems also has a steady (although not steep) growth rate

customer (usually taking 2 days). Most current trend is the

(28702 in 2013 vs 26086 in 2011).

increasing amounts of amber testing during 2014.

Assay Office of Latvia has been publishing the list of all registered business entities on its Internet page – http://

HALLMARKING PRICES

www.prove.lv/registers/index.php and personal hallmarks

Hallmarking price of 1 gram of gold. EUR 0,0996 per

http://www.prove.lv/registers/images.php.

piece + 0,3415 per gram, but not more than EUR 1,0245 for item; Hallmarking price of 1 gram of silver. EUR 0,0996 per piece + 0,0996 per gram, but not more than EUR 0,5976

REPUBLIC OF LATVIA

for item; If 100 or more pieces of imported items of the same

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Riga Official language Latvian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 64 589 km2 Population (2014) 1 997 500 Government Parliamentary republic President Andris Berziņs Prime Minister Laimdota Straujuma GDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 15 079.08 EUR Estonia Ethnic groups (2011) 62.1% Latvians, 37.9 % others LATVIA Largest cities

lot are imported, a 20 % discount is applied. Testing and hallmarking of a few units can take up to 1 hour. Hallmarking of 1000 or more units can take up to several days. If hallmarking must be made during the same day, by the request of a customer, it costs 2 times more than a standard price, if on the next day (24 hour period) – 50% more.

TESTING AND HALLMARKING DEVICES When it comes to testing methods, various devices are used to ensure reliable results (besides classic methods), such as ED XRF spectrometry (both gems and precious

Riga 706 000 Liepaja 301 621 Daugavpils 343 646

metals), FTIR, more recently - Raman and PL spectrometry etc. In the area of hallmarking, besides mechanical method, a laser hallmarking device is used extensively, as

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Lithuania

Belarus

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

TRENDS AND PROSPECTS FOR JEWELLERY MARKET IN GERMANY Report by EUROMONITOR International TRENDS

designers to create accessory lines. For example, H&M

In 2013, jewellery recorded a positive performance. In

introduced in collaboration with Anna Della Russo a new

economic uncertainty, with considerably feeble interest

collection, which resonated well amongst the female tar-

rate repayments and the risk of inflation, German con-

get audience in Germany.

sumers predominately sought for monetary security. Real

German jewellery is considerably polarised. According

jewellery benefited from these conditions in 2013, as

to industry sources the increased urbanisation in Germany

many consumers perceive these items as the safest invest-

caused an uneven distribution of real jewellery, with retail

ment. Costume jewellery experienced stable demand due

sales mainly generated by the urban cities. In the context

to the success of fashion accessories, which was stimu-

of distribution sales channels, jewellery & watch special-

lated by major retailers who had teamed up with fashion

ist retailers remained the leading outlet in Germany with

www.balticjewellerynews.com

mid-income earners in Germany. Internet retailers such as 123 Gold developed a new section within their e-commerce platform exclusively to display their large range of diamonds on offer. This trend reflects the strong demand for diamonds in Germany. At the higher price bracket, diamond collections continued to celebrate its success as powerful statement jewellery and contributed to the overall value sales of real jewellery in 2013.

PROSPECTS Over the next five years the growth of jewellery is expected to experience challenges, with declining target demographics and thus decreased per capita consumption. Germany´s population is predicted to age rapidly over the next five years. Consumers will in all likelihood become more concerned about their financial situation, with discretionary funds shrinking over the forecast period. As a result, jewellery is predicted to record marginal average constant value growth towards 2018. In context of the review period, jewellery´s performance over the forecast period is expected to slow down. Consumers are expected to become to more weary of impulse purchases and they are less likely to spend on non-necessities like costume jewellery. Consequently, costume jewellery is expected to record a -2% constant value CAGR.

GERMAN JEWELLERY MARKET VALUE mn EUR

77% value share. It lost minor value share in 2013 due to

42000

the competition from internet retailing. The rural population led internet retailing to grow in terms of value sales. In 2013, internet shopping gained popularity particularly

41500

amongst elderly consumers in Germany, who used this sales channel not only as a method for checking and com-

41000

paring products availability and prices, but to purchase high value and fine jewellery. In 2013, internet retailing´s

40500

value sales increased by 11% to hold 6% value share in jewellery.

40000

In 2013, diamonds grew in popularity, accounting for one of the most demanded gemstones in Germany.

2012

2013

2014

mn EUR

Diamond collections contributed 34% to the total real jewellery sales in 2013 and they were available in multiple

mn EUR

styles and designs to cater for demands of a very broad target market. Other gemstones zirconia and pearls. However with more affordable brands, manufactures offered diamond collections in 2013, with other non-

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Forecast 2012

2013

2014

4,056.3

4,122.7

4,168.4

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

diamond collections becoming less popular amongst the

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

utumn is a time for retailers to prepare for Christmas, adjust their product range

and start thinking about the coming year. Information, inspiration and buying are at the heart of the requirements for a trade fair and that is exactly what Gemworld Munich at the end of October offers its visitors. It consistently positions itself as an international trade fair for gemstones and authentic gemstone jewellery. Exhibitors from more than

30 countries come to Munich to show their wide range of products, from the raw materials to polished stones through to whole pieces of jewellery and accessories. For many years, this has included well-known brands such as CHQ (pearls), Paul Wild (coloured gemstones), Dynamic

GEMWORLD MUNICH – the purchasing and trend platform in autumn

International (diamonds) and Erfurt Design (designer jewellery). It’s also well worth mentioning that there are over 30 retailers in Munich with a seldom-seen range of Australian, Mexican and Ethiopian opals. The products are clearly arranged in the trade fair so that visitors can find their way around easily. Further highlights include the country pavilions as well as the Gemworld pavilion with their exceptionally high-quality exhibitors. Over the last few years, the event organisers

have

clearly

focused

on and invested in the optics of the show, creating a professional atmosphere that befits the industry. Another reason many firms like the

Press Release by Gemworld Munich PRESS OFFICE

trade fair is the ability to sell directly

Gemworld Munich developed out of the The Munich Show and over the last few years has become the leading place to shop for the jewellery and gemstone industries in autumn. The professional atmosphere and an attractive exhibitor list indicate the organiser’s intention: Creating an optimal surrounding for successful business.

goldsmiths use this opportunity, for

to customers. Many jewellers and

www.balticjewellerynews.com

example, to look for specific items on their customers’ behalf and take them away on the day, saving both time and money. Furthermore, many small exhibitors from the mining and processing countries in Asia, Africa

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

GEMWORLD MUNICH – creating an optimal surrounding for successful business

and South America use the event to learn about the European market. For the last two years, Gemworld Munich has included the European young talent competition, ‘Young Designers Corner’. This is where young designers get the opportunity to put themselves forward for an international competition and make their first links with contacts in the industry. The eight finalists in the competition are allowed to present

With its huge offer and its

to the trade fair last year, thus mak-

their work in Munich and the win-

constant development Gemworld

ing it one of the largest purchasing

ner is crowned on Friday at the trade

Munich is an attractive platform

platforms in the German-speaking

show. In close proximity to the jew-

for jewellers, goldsmiths, jewellery

world. According to the event organ-

ellery competition, visitors can find

designers and specialist dealers,

isers, registrations for 2014 already

another trend area in which to be

providing a pleasant yet professional

exceed those at this time last year and point to a successful autumn.

inspired and to discover new design-

atmosphere for their autumn pur-

ers: the New Design Forum. There,

chases. This is testified by the con-

Gemworld Munich takes place

artists who have already entered the

stantly increasing exhibitor and visi-

from 24 – 26 October at the Munich

profession and have released their

tor numbers over the last few years:

Exhibition Centre.

own collections onto the market pre-

Over 350 companies and around

sent their work.

5,000 industry professionals came

www.balticjewellerynews.com

› www.gemworldmunich.com.

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Years INTERGEM Press Release by Intergem PRESS OFFICE

From October 3 rd to 6 th the INTERGEM is going to celebrate a milestone birthday. The international trade fair for gemstones, gemstone jewellery and gemstone objects, with its widespread technological offer, is going to return for its 30 th edition.

Companies interested in participating should hasten, since an anniversary generates more interest and is therefore booked out much quicker says Hille. Of course not only the supporting programme, but also the exhibitors' offerings are sure to set benchmarks in the industry: thanks to outstanding contacts to each and every gemstone producing country, the INTERGEM's exhibitors are able to present the entire variety of gems and jewels.

he industry is already looking forward to the an-

Exquisite specialities, which cannot be found anywhere

niversary, since the INTERGEM is known to be the

else, are of course part of the breathtaking offer. At the

industry's small but mighty shop window and is

INTERGEM visitors are sure to find rarities which are hard

internationally known for its exclusive variety of gem-

to find on the market. Pearls of the highest quality and

stones and jewellery. The makers of the INTERGEM have

astonishing luxury objects are part of the spectrum as well.

come up with quite a bit for the jubilee: a diamond sym-

Innovative cuts, extravagant designs, colour- and material

posium with worldwide leading experts from the sector

trends, the INTERGEM gives visitors a comprehensive over-

will illuminate current market developments. “We are go-

view and valuable information concerning current devel-

ing to welcome the most important heads in the diamond

opments. Timeless or zeitgeist – charismatic classics and

industry and the insights obtained at the INTERGEM will

trendy lifestyle jewellery – at the INTERGEM buying agents

surely shine back on the market”, says INTERGEM's man-

can explore the vast bandwidth of creative craftsmanship.

aging director Kai-Uwe Hille. An additional highlight is

The INTERGEM is the ordering platform for gemstones

going to be the birthday party on Saturday. The exhibi-

and jewellery regarding the upcoming Christmas sales.

tion's importance for the region and its economy will be

Goldsmiths, jewellery designers, producers and trade

underlined by the visit of the Prime Minister-President of

professionals stock up with the users' jewellery dreams

Rhineland-Palatinate Malu Dreyer on Saturday.

at the INTERGEM.Last but not least the INTERGEM's flair,

“We are looking forward to the anniversary”, says Kai-

set right in the heart of Europe’s gemstone industry is

Uwe Hille and continues: “We are expecting more than

unmatched in the world.

4000 visitors since a milestone birthday always sparks a

› www.intergem.de

little more interest.”

www.balticjewellerynews.com

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe 2014 closes with positive results

Press Release by Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe PRESS OFFICE

FREIBURG, April 2014 – The Jewellery & Gem Fair

fair in Freiburg. Even before the event, the expectations

Europe 2014 has closed its doors with positive results.

were very high. These expectations were confirmed, espe-

More than 6,000 jewellery professionals attended the

cially in the first two days of the fair. The visitor profile was

launch event, which brought together suppliers, press,

very international”.

leading industry and governmental associations. Of this

“Germany is the biggest and most important market

number, almost 4,300 were leading trade buyers. Wolfram

for us but we are already very well positioned within this

Diener, Senior Vice President of UBM Asia comments,

market, so we are looking for new international custom-

“The vast majority of our exhibitors and traders view the

ers. The first day at the Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe was

exhibition as a success. We are very pleased with the posi-

very good. A lot of people visited our booth and have

tive feedback from the market and see this as a confirma-

been interested in our handmade Jewellery. I think there

tion that the Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe is now listed

lies huge potential in a trade show

as an important industry event in the jewellery calendar.

like this and for us it’s the right

At the same time, of course, we are inspired to organise

place to do business“, Marcin

an even higher quality show for 2015”. The Jewellery &

Zaremski from Mateusz Zaremski

Gem Fair Europe 2015 will expand into an additional hall

Brand, Poland.

at Messe Freiburg. Verena Raub, Distribution at Bellaluce,

› www.jgf-europe.com

Germany, said “Our expectations were really exceeded. We hope the interest of the international market will increase over the next few years. Following these posi-

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

tive results of the Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe, we will certainly participate again next year”. The next edition of the Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe

EU, NATO Capital Berlin Official language German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 80 716 000 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita 30 785.08 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5% German 8.5% others Czech Republic Largest cities GERMANY Berlin 3471 756

will be held from Sunday 22 March to Wednesday 25 March 2015. The show will begin on a Sunday, to allow smaller regional jewellery businesses to attend easily. Timo Richardon from Carl Schaefer GmbH & Co KG, Germany, commented, “It is clear that the show organisers are very experienced and are willing to do whatever is necessary to ensure the success of the participating exhibitors”. The unique positioning of the event for the medium-priced sector, the international range of exhibitors represented and the quality of the visitors were praised throughout the fair. UBM is filling a much needed gap in the European market. JGF Europe is clearly gaining support from across the region, Ines Lopez Sharma, Managing

Hamburg 1 786 448 Bavaria 1 353 186

Director of ILR-Collection, Germany, states “We were immediately impressed with the idea of an international

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Austria

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

A COMMITMENT FOR A PAIR OF DENMARK TREASURES

Report by KOPENHAGEN FUR and House of Amber PRESS OFFICE

House of Amber and Kopenhagen Fur Cooperate in Autumn/ Winter 2014 Limited Collection

tion featuring House of Amber and Kopenhagen Fur 2014 Autumn/Winter Limited Collection.

THE EXQUISITENESS OF LUXURIOUS AMBER AND FUR REFLECTS A FASHION DREAM uly 30, 2014, Shanghai – Amber and fur are two of

At the grand night, the event site inside Jiu Guang

Denmark's treasures, each renowned for its quality,

department store displays a pure green backdrop touch-

exquisiteness and historic links to Denmark – now

ing a sense of Nordic antique pine woods where birds

combine in one very limited collection of wearable fur

awakened and flew along with the amber spirits; peace-

styles with the finest amber jewellery. Today, the world-

ful amber stays inside crystal showcases, while fairies

leading companies in amber and fur – House of Amber

dressed in glamorous fur disclosed the stage curtain and

and Kopenhagen Fur launched their cross-worked lim-

presented the timeless gift from the nature. A host of

ited collection in Shanghai Jiu Guang department store.

supermodels consecutively appeared and shared the sur-

General Manager of House of Amber Dennis Jørgensen,

prising exquisiteness of amber-fur. Working to combine

Kopenhagen Fur Marketing Manager Jesper Poulsen,

the amber and fur has been an adventure for furriers and

Kopenhagen Fur Beijing Office Manager Chris Cui present-

jewellers alike, but the results are stunning and bring out

ed with their greetings and witnessed the grand beauty of

new sides of both the amber and the fur. The six exclusive

amber fur products, meanwhile they unveiled the exhibi-

styles vary from a sumptuous jacket with myriad pieces of amber hidden in the fur to more chaste styles with one eye-catching piece of amber holding the fur together, implicating great artistic and collective values. General Manager of House of Amber Dennis Jørgensen expressed, ‘to cooperate with Kopenhagen Fur is House of Amber’s honour, both worked hard to create fashion classic and combined amber with fur at the same time took respect to two brands’ traditions. The new collection is originated from Kopenhagen Fur designers’ and co-designed by House of Amber jewelers; by it we are deeply convinced the charm will be widely appreciated.’ Meanwhile, Kopenhagen Fur Beijing Office Manager Chris

House of Amber and Kopenhagen Fur launched their cross-worked limited collection in Shanghai Jiu Guang department store

Cui said, ‘as the world-leading provider of fur and pioneer

www.balticjewellerynews.com

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT for innovation, Kopenhagen Fur lives on the quality and

an appreciation of the new collection and the miniature

creative of fur. For this time, the cross-design – crafted

of Kopenhagen Amber Museum with its collections, in an

by unique Nordic designers’ inspirations – of two vintage

atmosphere of Andersen’s fairyland.

Nordic natural materials will definitely be an eye-catching

From July 30 to August 5, House of Amber and

and beloved selection to jewelry and fur fans.’

Kopenhagen Fur 2014 Autumn/Winter Limited Collection

After the fashion show, the whole event approaches a

Show was displayed on the second floor of Jiu Guang

highlight – an amber-crystal lift winged down slowly from

department store on Shanghai Nanjing West road, for

the sky, taking the well-known ‘Danish Angel’ Sidsel Boye

free to public. Fashion fans were able to grab the first

Rasmussen into the stage centre. Sidsel first appeared in

view of amber and fur cross design, amber museum treas-

Hunan TV programme and surprised her fans with her pure

ures and Danish aesthetic and culture.

charisma and wonderful performance.

During the period of House of Amber

For this event, Sidsel specially endorsed

and Kopenhagen Fur 2014 Aumtumn/

with a dance produced in Denmark

Winter limited collection show, all guests

Holstebro Ballet School. Dressed in the

had a chance of try-on of the products. All

costume created by Denmark designer,

sales persons were well-informed about

Sidsel danced to dreamy music for the

each product and frankly shared the ideas

onsite guests, which brought an elegant

about the design elements and matching

hint to tonight’s romance. Afterwards,

methods, besides, they helped each cus-

‘Danish Angel’ endorsed the guests for

tomer with measurement and passed the size details to Kopenhagen studio for customized costume. About ten weeks later,

Very limited collection of wearable fur styles with the finest amber jewellery will be delivered to exquisite customer

the limited costume will be delivered to exquisite customer.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

PANDORA GROUP – SUCCESSFUL INCREASE OF REVENUE IN EUROPE Report by PANDORA Management PANDORA products are sold through more than 10,000 points of sale in more than 80 markets globally. PANDORA controls every step of the value chain of almost all our jewellery products from in-house design to production. PANDORA’s vertically integrated business model is scalable while remaining subject to stringent supervision and quality control standards. With such business model PANDORA has showed incredible results in 2013. Lets look through some changes and what happened in Europe market in 2013.

NEW AGREEMENT WITH TROLLBEADS

in PANDORA. During 2013, Prometheus proportionally dis-

In 2013, PANDORA purchased all Intellectual Property

tributed its holdings of the share capital in PANDORA to the

rights (IP rights) to glass charms designs from Trollbeads.

relevant owners of Prometheus, including three funds con-

The one-off payment of DKK 190 million is capitalised on

trolled by Axcel Management A/S (“Axcel”). Furthermore a

the balance sheet and amortised until end 2030. Previously,

reduction of ownership by major shareholders took place

Trollbeads had granted IP rights to glass charm designs to

during the year by placing of existing shares in the mar-

PANDORA under a long-term royalty agreement.

ket. Following these dispositions no single company owns more than 50% of the share capital in PANDORA.

CHANGE OF MAJOR SHAREHOLDER

As of 31 December 2013, Axcel, through controlling interest in three funds, exercises controlling interest over

Up until 22 May 2013, Prometheus Invest ApS

17.6% of the total share capital in PANDORA.

(Promethesus) owned more than 50% of the share capital

www.balticjewellerynews.com

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

EUROPE Revenue in Europe, constituting 41.7% of total Group revenue, was DKK 3,760 million corresponding to an increase of 47.9% or 49.9% in local currency. Growth was primarily driven by the UK and Other Europe. UK is PANDORA’s largest single market in Europe accounting for 12.9% of Group revenue, compared with 13.1% in 2012. Revenue in the UK was DKK 1,158 million and increased by 33.3% or 39.4% in local currency compared with 2012. Growth in the UK was primarily driven by PANDORA’s newer collections, improved store network and the successful launch of the UK eSTORE in

GROWTH OF REVENUE IN EUROPE

November 2012.

mn EUR

PANDORA has experienced positive like-for-like sales-

500,000

out of UK Concept stores throughout 2013. The growth in sales was driven by newness in the stores, as end-con-

450,000

sumer demand was high for PANDORA’s newly launched products. Germany is PANDORA’s second largest market in Europe, accounting for 6.0% of 2013 Group revenue,

400,000

compared with 7.1% in 2012. Revenue in Germany was DKK 544 million and increased by 16.0% in 2013 com-

350,000

pared with 2012. The growth was primarily driven by PANDORA’s new product launches. The improvement

300,000

2012

of store network in Germany is on-going and PANDORA continues to improve store execution across the mar-

2013

2014

Europe

ket. Revenue in Germany going forward is expected to continue to be volatile. PANDORA has experienced posi-

mn EUR

Forecast 2012

2013

2014

340,990

330,460

488,800

tive like-for-like sales-out of German Concept stores throughout 2013, driven by high sales through of new products.

KINGDOM OF DENMARK

Revenue in Other Europe was DKK 2,058 and increased by 70.9% in 2013 compared with 2012. The main drivers

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Copenhagen Official language Danish Currency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 5 639 719 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy Monarch Margrethe II Prime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt GDP (PPP) Per capita 43 286.29 EUR Sweden Ethnic groups 87% Scandinavians 13% others Largest cities DENMARK Copenhagen 1 935 746 Aarhus 252 213 Odense 158 678

of growth were Italy, France and Russia, where like-forlike sales-out continues to be high. Furthermore, growth was fuelled by expansion of the store network in the three countries. PANDORA has opened 74 new Concept stores in the three countries during 2013. Revenue for the three new markets constituted more than 50% of revenue from Other Europe in 2013. PANDORA opened eSTOREs in Germany and Austria in 2013. Including the UK eSTORE and the recently opened eSTORE in France (January 2014), PANDORA now offers e-commerce platforms in four European countries. The distribution network in Europe has decreased by 92 stores to a total of 6,414 in 2013, but the share of branded stores increased compared with 2012 accounting for 39.9% of the total number of stores by the end of 2013 compared with 37.0% in 2012.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

TRENDS AND PROSPECTS FOR JEWELLERY MARKET IN SWEDEN Press Release by EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Fashion jewellery is projected to have

THE FASTER GROWTH DURING 2014,

financial crisis in 2008 had a negative impact on volume

upby a compound annual growth rate

sales of fine jewellery. The price of gold increased from

OF 3%

SEK5.719 per troy ounce (31g) in 2008 to SEK11.224 in 2012, an increase of almost 141%. In 2013 the price of gold began to drop, although it remained far over the

PROSPECTS

price of gold in 2008. The higher price contributed to a strong increase

The demand for both branded jewellery and unbrand-

in the unit price of gold jewellery, which in turn had a

ed fashion jewellery will continue to drive sales between

strongly negative impact on volume sales.

2013 and 2018. Fashion jewellery is projected to have the

Gold, followed by silver, remains the most popular

faster growth during the forecast period, up by a CAGR of

metal in fine jewellery. Gold jewellery increased its value

3%. Fashion jewellery will continue to be driven by fash-

share during last five years, mainly because of the strong

ion trends and a strong connection to apparel fashion.

increase in the price of gold since 2008. Other metals

The mass targeting of consumers with affordable fashion-

mainly include titanium and palladium. Metal combina-

able pieces might be the key to success in Swedish fashion

tions are mainly ‘white gold’, a combination of gold, pal-

jewellery. Fine jewellery will also increase in value sales,

ladium and silver, copper or zinc.

although more slowly compared with fashion jewellery.

Diamonds are clearly the most popular gemstones

Fine jewellery will benefit from a slow improvement in the

and represent an air of true luxury. Diamonds are popular

Swedish economy and the falling price of gold.

in rings, on brooches and in earrings. Other gemstones

Rings and neckwear will remain the two most popular

include rubies, opals and sapphires. Less common are

types of jewellery. However, one growing trend among

jewellery with topaz, beryl and onyx stones. However,

men is to use a single gemstone as an earring, mostly

less common gemstones are increasingly used as a way to

a diamond or a rhinestone. However, all in all the split

make jewellery more individual and exclusive.

between product types is projected to be largely the

Rings and neckwear are the two most common prod-

same.

uct types in terms of value sales. Earrings are the third most popular type of fine jewellery. Wristwear is the least

SWEDISH JEWELLERY MARKET VALUE

common product type. Fine jewellery sales are about the same throughout

mn EUR

the year, with one important exception – the Christmas

440

period. Fine jewellery is a popular Christmas gift, especially for women. Fashion jewellery sales are also steady

430

for most of the year, although they peak when spring/ summer and autumn/winter fashion ranges are released.

420

Traditional jewellery & watch specialist retailers such as Guldfynd, Hallbergs Guld and Smycka are the most important outlets for jewellery in Sweden in terms of val-

410

ue sales. This channel accounted for 75% of value sales in 2013. However, the growing adoption of fashion jewellery

400

by department stores and other channels has provided

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

mn EUR

alternative avenues for fashion jewellery sales. Another noticeable trend in distribution is the growing value share

2009

for internet retailing, which in 2013 accounted for a 7%

mn EUR

share of value sales of fashion jewellery and for 9% in fine jewellery. The relative success of internet retailing is attracting retailers to tap into online sales and therefore refocus their sales strategy.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

2010

2011

426.657 428.978 412.401

2012

2013

417.692 429.605

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

TRENDS The extreme increase in the price of gold after the

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

PRECIOUS TALENTS 2014: Eight new talents in jewellery design selected Precious – The Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair – has now elected eight talented jewellery designers in the competition for Precious Talents 2014. For the first time, talents from Finland and Denmark are now represented.

A record-breaking number of new designers entered the 2014 Precious Talents competition. For the jury,

Press Release by Precious PRESS OFFICE

recently strengthened by Sara Winter from Swedish

1. Charlotte Cort Koppel, Copenhagen, Denmark www.cortkoppel.com 2. Phorm, Uppsala, Sweden www.patrikhansson.se 3. Signe Abrahamson Jewelry, Copenhagen, Denmark www.signeabrahamson.com

4. Shieldmaid, Broby, Sweden www.shieldmaid.se 5. Paula Hagerskans Jewellery, Gothenburg, Sweden www.paulahagerskans.se 6. Get Bli Designs, Kaskö, Finland www.getbli.com

7. Langaeble Stockholm, Stockholm, Sweden www.langaeble.com 8. Hieno Jewel, Lahti, Finland www.hienojewel.com

4 www.balticjewellerynews.com

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Stockholm Official language Swedish Currency Swedish krona (SEK); 1 EUR – 9.16 SEK Time zone CET (UTC+1) CEST (UTC+2) Summer (DST) Area – 449 964 km2 Population (2013) 9 658 301 SWEDEN Government Constitutional monarchy,

“We are very happy to have Sara on the jury, bringing her competence and long experience in fashion and design“, says Åsa Axelsson. Precious Talents has grown each year and this time, the number of applications from our neighbour countries is at an all-time high. The competition for the final has been really tough. This is the fifth time the Precious trade fair gives new

Unitary parliamentary representative democracy Monarch King Carl XVI Gustaf Prime Minister Fredrik Reinfeldt GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 30 502.96 EUR Ethnic groups 80% Swedish, 20 % others Denmark Largest cities Stockholm 1 253 309, Goteborg 515 252, Malmoe 261 548

and promising designers of jewellery and watches the opportunity to participate in Precious, free of charge. They receive a unique chance to make new contacts and to present their designs to exhibitors and buyers in the jewellery and watch industry.

› www.preciousfair.se

8 www.balticjewellerynews.com

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

KINGDOM OF SWEDEN

Fashion Council/Swedish Shoe Council, the selection process was a great challenge.

UAB DEVYNI GINTARAI DEBRECENO 70–10 KLAIPEDA LT-94153 LITHUANIA

owner EDVARDAS ZUMBRICKAS TEL. +37039838245 FAX +37046360652

www.amber999.com

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

FROM A CONTAINER TO ANINTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY – A ten year journey of jewellery artists, exhibitions, lectures and happenings

By Jenni SOKURA and Mikko HOLM on behalf of the Finnish Jewellery Art Association

the middle of the Finnish city of Lappeenranta

penings. The Jewellery Art Association was founded in

you can find a marketplace where the stall-

Lappeenranta in 2005. The association aims to promote

holders gather to sell their goods, such as po-

contemporary jewellery in Finland and to improve its rec-

tatoes, strawberries, bread and baskets made out of birch

ognition as a form of art and design. Another goal of the

bark. It is a pleasure to sit down and enjoy a cup of coffee

association is to increase international awareness about

among them. In the midst of the sales there also is a big,

Finnish jewellery. As means towards those ends, the asso-

blue container which says “Korutaideyhdistys – Jewellery

ciation organizes exhibitions, presentations and discus-

Art Association” on the sheet attached to the side of it.

sion panels, and distributes information about events.

This container is the very first exhibition of the Finnish Jewellery Art Association that has just been founded.

THE EVENTS OF THE ASSOCIATION

During the few weeks of its presence, thousands of peo-

In Finland, and around the world, contemporary

ple came to wonder this exhibition and the feedback was

jewellery is a relatively small and unknown field of art.

positive.

Therefore Jewellery Art Association has pursued to create

The Finnish Jewellery Art Association is turning ten

different kinds of happenings and to impact the everyday

next year. Its history consists of various kinds of hap-

life of people by them. Photos of contemporary jewellery

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Furthermore, the Finnish Jewellery Art Association co-operates with several regional and national agents. In doing so, the association is working to improve the field of contemporary jewellery, but also to advance the income possibilities for those working in the field.

KORU5-EXHIBITION IS MORE POPULAR THAN EVER

Members took part in our summer exhibition and sale of Finnish contemporary jewellery called "Illuusio", Riihimäki, Finland, 2014

To celebrate the coming anniversary, the associahave been projected on the windows of a store during its

tion has taken charge of organizing the KORU5-event.

closing times. Works of jewellery art have also been pre-

This triennial, which has been organized since 2003, has

sented on “exhibition walks”, carried by the artists them-

improved its public recognition during the years. This can

selves and their friends. In this way the implementation

be seen in the interest towards the exhibition. Recently

of the exhibition can be quite simple. When enough vol-

finished open call to KORU5-exhibition showed us a great

unteers sign up, these kinds of exhibitions can get a lot of

amount of applicants, more than ever before. We hope

attention. The association has also been active organizing

this same interest will also be seen in the participation to

exhibitions on galleries, museums and public events such

the workshops and the seminars which take place during

as the annual Painters' Union and The Finnish Association

the event in the fall 2015. We think, that the great num-

of Designers Ornamo art brokerage events.

ber of applications to this exhibition is not only due to the reputation of the event, but to the fact that the field of

To increase the awareness of contemporary jewellery,

contemporary jewellery is doing better than ever.

the Finnish Jewellery Art Association has organized various lectures open to the public. By these lectures the art-

PS. The Finnish Jewellery Art Association came up

ists have been able to share their stories of jewellery art

with a new tradition last year: the 10th of October is the

to a wider audience. Whenever the association has organ-

annual day of Jewellery. To celebrate it, carry your jewel-

ized an exhibition, a comprehensive information has been

lery on you and encourage your friends and colleagues to

given to the organizers and administrators to confirm the

do the same thing.

best possible info for the visitors. Our team building up the Kiosk of Jewellery-exhibtion during Circuit Bijoux-event in fall 2013, Paris, France

The association has its own collection of contemporary jewellery which is constantly accumulated by donations and purchases. It is possible for museums and organ-

Kontti – an exhibition in a container, Lappeenranta, Finland, 2006

izers to borrow this collection. Next time the collection is presented in the city of Tampere, Finland, in fall 2014. The exhibition will be presented in cooperation with the local design and craft association, Modus ry.

THE MEMBERS MAKES THE ASSOCIATION Co-operation is the reason why this association operates. None of our happenings would have been possible without its members. Fine pieces of jewellery art make an exhibition, but the exhibition cannot be made without the contribution from our members. The association is active in organizing opportunities for the members to take part in running the system, and therefore the members have a chance to influence how the contemporary jewellery

› Find more about us: www.korutaideyhdistys.fi Find more about KORU5: www.koru5.fi

is shown to the wider audience. The projects are run by working groups which usually consist of the members and

www.balticjewellerynews.com

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

partly of the board. As a rule, the association operates by volunteering.

NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

NORWEGIAN GOLDSMITH SECTOR IN FOCUS

Report by Norwegian Gold and Watch Trade Fair PRESS OFFICE

orwegian Gold and Watch Trade Fair was established and held for the first time in 2012.

KINGDOM OF NORWAY

Our vision is to create a meeting place

for all representatives within the industry. A place to

Hallmarking Convention Capital Oslo Official language Norwegian Currency Norwegian krone (NOK); 1 EUR – 8.23 NOK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 385 252 km2 Population (2013) 5 136 700 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy King King Harald V Prime Minister Erna Solberg GDP (PPP) Per capita 41 464.17 EUR Ethnic groups 86.2% Norwegians NORWAY 13.8% others Largest cities Oslo 876 391 Bergen 257 752 Stavanger/Sandnes 189 828

get inspired, gain new knowledge and view the best of Norwegian Jewellery design. Norwegian Gold and Watch Trade Fair is the link between the consumers and the suppliers from home and

abroad, both that are well established on the marked and the newcomers. The result of the questionnaire after the exhibition in 2013 showed: • 88 % of exhibitors concluded with orders from customers • 85 % of exhibitors received 1-20 new customers • 69 % of the buyers visited the trade fair in 2012 and 32 % visited the exhibition for the first time • 76 % of the buyers had not visited similar trade fairs in Scandinavia the last year • 94 % of the buyers would like to re-visit the Norwegian Gold and Watch Trade Fair in 2014 The visitors mainly will come to make purchases, check new trends and to meet new suppliers. The Fair is held in cooperation with the Gifts and Interior Trade Fair that gives the visitors the opportunity to visit both Trade Fairs at the same time without extra charge.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Sweden

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

TRENDS AND PROSPECTS FOR JEWELLERY MARKET IN UKRAINE Report by EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL TRENDS The sales of jewellery decreased by less than 1% and

and the decrease of purchasing ability of the customers.

reached UAH2,043 million in 2013. Such a situation is

In addition to that, a shift from real jewellery to cos-

caused by the decrease of real jewellery market, which

tume jewellery can be observed now, therefore the com-

takes 96% of market value. The real jewellery market is

mon jewellery market will decrease every year, since the

decreasing due to a rapid increase in price for gold as well

unit price of costume jewellery is much lower than real

as the new fashion trends.

jewellery. Another threat is exchange rate fluctuation,

The biggest share is covered by gold real jewellery

since most of costume jewellery production is imported.

(83% in value), silver real jewellery takes the second place

Another trend is the decrease of the number of jewel-

(14% in value). At the same time, the share of silver real

lery used with one suit as the result of more convenient

jewellery is growing rapidly, in 2013 sales of silver jewel-

clothes choices. Another negative influence is the shops

lery grew by 7% in value as compared to 2012. Platinum

where one can purchase all the materials for creating self-

and metal combination real jewellery have fairly small

made costume jewellery.

shares. In the future, the growth of silver real jewellery will be observed, as well as the growth of demand for real jewellery from gold combination (products created

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY MARKET VALUE

with the use of white gold, yellow gold, red gold and rose

mn EUR

gold at the same time). The share of platinum and metal

9500

combination real jewellery is going to decrease. Currently, real jewellery with diamonds is becoming

9125

more and more popular. The demand for these jewelleries is affected by the fashion trend for engagement rings with diamonds. The share of real jewellery with diamonds

8750

keeps growing, reaching 16% in value in 2013. 8375

PROSPECTS 8000

2012

The sales of jewellery will decrease by 4% by 2018,

2013

2014

mn EUR

reaching Uah1639 million. This situation will be caused by the market decline of real jewellery with a higher unit price and slow development of costume jewellery, whose

mn EUR

products are a priory less expensive. The main threats for the development of the jewellery market will be the increase of counterfeit products

www.balticjewellerynews.com

Forecast 2012

2013

895.8

869.6

2014

850.3

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

WORLD CLASS Ukrainian jewellery

Ukraine-based jewelry designer Stanislav DROKIN

Interview by Odilija GUNTORIUTE tanislav Drokin was born in Kharkiv, Ukraine.

He graduated from the Kharkiv State Academy of

By learning a profession, he became fascinated

the Designers Union of Ukraine and the (international)

After school, he was hired as apprentice engraver.

Design and Fine Arts. Stanislav became a member of

by jeweller's art. Thereafter, he worked creating mas-

Society of Designers in 1998. Stanislav organized anoth-

ter models for jewellery companies. In 1994 he founded

er design exhibition, the Ukrainian festival of design

his own atelier – the private company S.D. In 1995, he

"YuvelirArtProm," in Kharkiv Art Museum, in 2004. To

organized an exhibition titled, "The Magical World of

date, the jewellery atelier of Stanislav Drokin is the produc-

Stone," which to date is still held in Kharkiv.

tion of a full cycle with modern equipment and technology.

In 1998–1999 he was trained in gemmological centres

Stanislav Drokin won a Gold Award in the Solidscape

of Ukraine, Germany and Poland. In 1999, thanks to meet-

2014 Baselworld Design Competition. The award is given

ing the world famous jeweller and designer André Enskat

for Stanislav’s frog ring is a whimsical creation that fea-

(Idar-Oberstein, Germany) and his guidance, I began look-

tures a moveable mouth and is exquisitely executed in

ing for my own style, my very own creative way.

multiple precious metals and stones.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Winning ring in the "Gold" category of the Solidscape 3D 2014 BaselWorld Design Competition, made in 18K gold, diamonds, and tourmaline

part of this. Color also speaks to a woman’s individuality. In today’s world, with an almost infinite selection of products around us, women want something that reflects their own personality, something that is original and creative. What is your own favourite piece of work? The one which I have not created yet.

In Centurion Jewellery Show, he won Centurion 2014

How do you think your jewellery differs from

Emerging Designer Awards Competition.

the work of other Ukrainian jewellery designers?

“Winning in those competitions is a big event in my life, creative activity and business. In the history of my country

Any designer is on his own way of creative develop-

this is the first winning of the Ukrainian in international

ment. I'm looking for my own way, my very own style.

jewelry competitions in America. The Centurion Emerging “OBI” ring in 18K white gold, cultured black Tahitian pearl, and diamonds, winner of the Luster Award in the 2014 International Pearl Design Contest

Designer Awards Competition is a very important incentive in the development of international jewelry business and art.” Said Drokin. In 2013–2014 IPDC, International Pearl Design Con test, he won Luster Awards for his creation “Obi”. Luster Award is given to the design, which will have the most overall appeal for the retail marketplace. Why did you choose the path of jewellery designer? This is my way of living which I've been keeping on for 30 years. Starting from the engraver, jeweller, technologist, gemmologist to designer Where do you take your inspiration? From the world around me. Why is your jewellery so colourful? About three or four years ago, I added a lot of color to my creations. Color has a great impact on all of us. It is important in all aspects of our daily lives, and jewelry is

www.balticjewellerynews.com

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Now that you are recognised as world class jew-

UKRAINE

eller, in your opinion, which other Ukrainian jewellers are worth such recognition?

Capital Kiev Official language Ukrainian Currency Ukrainian hryvnia (UAH); 1 EUR – 16.07 UAK Time zone CET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+3) Area 603,628 km2 Population (2014) 44 291 413 Government Unitary semi-presidential constitutional republic President Petro Poroshenko Prime Minister Arseniy Yatsenyuk GDP (PPP) Per capita 5 537.57 EUR Ethnic groups 77.8% Ukrainians 17.3% Russians 4.9% others Largest cities Kiev 2 872 200 Kharkiv 1 470 902

Thank you for your appreciation! This is years of work. There are lots of talented designers in Ukraine, and each of them is able to reach any kinds of peaks. The main thing is being not ready to rest, analysing design trends, and inventing! In which country is your jewellery the most popular? In America and Europe – where my jewellery have won in competitions. Do Ukrainians buy your jewellery? Yes. In Ukraine, there are a lot of people who want to emphasize their individuality, to wear one-off pieces of jewellery. How successful for you was Amber Trip? Will you come back next year? My first participation in Amber Trip was successful.

Belarus

Now, in connection with the situation in Ukraine, it is difPoland

ficult to plan anything. I’d love to.

UKRAINE

In my opinion, the Baltics are a promising jewellery market. Now, the amber market undergoes global changes, therefore, I wish the organizers of Amber Trip to wider develop jewellery and gem topics of exhibition.

Winning ring in the Centurion Emerging Designers Competition in 18K yellow and blackened gold with fire opal, diamonds, and sapphires

www.balticjewellerynews.com

RING GOLD 750, SILVER 925, AMBER  RING GOLD 750, SILVER 925, SUMATRA AMBER, SAPPHIRES, SPESARTINE 

www.balticjewellerynews.com

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

NEW JEWELLERY BY STANISLAV DROKIN!

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

Official Price for Raw Amber by

Kaliningrad Amber Combine 2014 August RUSSIAN AMBER Regular Amber Piece Size

Price/1 kg – EUR

+4 – 11.5

8.35

+11,5 faction

36.61

+14 faction

55.18

+16 faction

82.32

+23 faction

143.96

+32 faction

239.92

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

156.11

4 gr. – 25 gr.

201.02

50 gr. – 100 gr.

344.86

100 gr. – 200 gr.

581.98

200 gr. – 300 gr.

678.97

300 gr. – 500 gr

754.40

www.balticjewellerynews.com

2014 August RUSSIAN AMBER Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

+5 faction

+6 faction

+8 faction

+11 faction

+14 faction

150

+16 faction

400

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

500

4 gr. – 10 gr.

720

10 gr. – 20 gr.

1500

20 gr. – 50 gr.

3200

50 gr. – 100 gr.

3200

100 gr. – 200 gr.

3400

200 gr. – 300 gr.

4000

300 gr. – 500 gr

5700

FACTIONS 20–50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2014 MARCH 4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300 2006 2006 2007 2007 2008 2008 2009 2009 2010 2010 2011 2011 2012 2012 2013 2013 2014 2014 2014 March August March August March August March August March August March August March August March August March June August

I‰ viso uÏsiregistrav´

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, info@balticjewellerynews.com

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Amber

Silver 925 Jewellery 2014 August

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

Price/gr

Handmade

2.1 EUR

Mashine made

1.8 EUR

AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – MARCH 2014 EUR/gr

0 2010 August

mashine

2011 March

2012 March

2012 August

2013 March

2013 August

2014 March

2014 August

handmade

SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2006 MARCH – 2014 MARCH 30 27 24 21 18 15 12 9 6 3 0 2006 2006 2007 2007 2008 2008 2009 2009 2010 2010 2011 2011 2012 2012 2013 2013 2014 2014 August March August March August March August March August March August March August March August March August March

If you haveI‰any viso questions uÏsiregistrav´ concerning these prices, please, contact our office: Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, info@balticjewellerynews.com

GOLD PRICE CHANGE 2007 March â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2014 August

SPOT GOLD PRICE IN EUR 1500

1200

900

600

300 2007 2007 2008 2008 2009 2009 2010 2010 2011 2011 2012 2012 2013 2013 2014 2014 March August March August March August March August March August March August March August March August

EUR per troy ounce invest@gold.org

www.balticjewellerynews.com

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Gold Price

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

GLOBAL GOLD JEWELLERY MARKET

Report by WORLD GOLD COUNCIL ooted deeply in a diverse tapestry of cultural tra-

engagement rings and wedding bands—a market worth

ditions, the aspiration to own and give gold in

more than US$9.7 billion.

the form of jewellery transcends generations and

In these major markets, the World Gold Council acts

national boundaries.

at the heart of the industry, opening possibilities for the

The three largest markets for gold jewellery, China,

most talented craftsmen to inspire new generations. Our

India and the US, each accord the metal a unique cultural

programmes support designers as they begin to inno-

significance. Acquiring jewellery is connected to celebra-

vate using gold, and bring the most beautiful modern

tions, relationships, self-expression and hopes for the

craftsmanship to both the traditional and digital retail

future in these countries.

environments.

As at the end of 2012, demand for jewellery makes up nearly half of global demand for gold, of which 56 per cent comes from India and China. These are markets which share a fundamental belief that gold is auspicious and an enduring store of value, making gold an ideal gift to mark festivals and weddings. But beyond this, a new generation of consumers are discovering innovative designs created by talented goldsmiths, who are giving gold a new fashionability and relevance. In the US, gold also remains at the centre of the wedding ritual, and consumers continue to invest in gold

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ewellery demand was well supported

note that other – largely political – factors

in the first quarter, exceeding the total

were also at play in suppressing demand in

from the first quarter last year – a period

both markets.

in which we saw the beginnings of 2013’s re-

While consumers were relatively robust

markable consumer resurgence. Lower gold

in their demand for gold jewellery last quar-

prices were the most important factor be-

ter, second quarter comparisons are expect-

hind the growth in first quater jewellery de-

ed to be significantly weaker. Much of the

mand; the average US$ price was 21% lower

demand surge last year occurred in response

than the year-earlier period. This decline in

to the price drops in April and May, thereby

the international price was echoed in many

pushing second quarter demand far beyond

markets, with European and Chinese con-

‘normal’ ranges. We would expect jewellery

sumers benefiting from a similar lower-price environment.

demand next quarter to come more into line with longer-

The first quarter of this year saw a continuation of

term average levels.

momentum in the jewellery markets, with demand following traditional patterns. Seasonal effects were particularly

49% OF ALL GOLD mined today IS MADE INTO JEWELLERY, which worldwide

notable in China, where the response to the Chinese New Year followed its customary path: fourth quarter strength

remains the single largest use for gold

in consumer demand and stock- building, in preparation for New Year and Valentine’s Day, continued into January

Gold bracelet from Gubelin

before quickly subsiding once the holiday period was over. Demand remained subdued throughout the closing weeks of the quarter. This was repeated throughout South East Asia, with demand in Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia also showing the usual New Year-related surge. Among the western markets, the US and UK improved further, building on the tentative recovery that began last year as better economic conditions, coupled with lower average gold prices, buoyed demand. As we have discussed previously, the longer supply chain in these markets mean that reductions in the international price take much longer to feed through to the retail level. By the end of last year, retailers were in a position to pass on lower prices to end-users and growth in demand is evidence of a positive consumer response. However, some markets experienced a rather different price environment when considering gold in local terms; currency weakness in Turkey, for example, kept lira prices elevated, while India’s supply restrictions continued to support the rupee price. Although it is important to

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WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

IN THE FIRST QUARTER OF 2014 JEWELLERY DEMAND MADE MODERATE GAINS OF 3% LARGELY DUE TO LOWER GOLD PRICES COMPARED WITH THE FIRST QUARTER IN 2013

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

GJEPC’S PRESENTED st THE 31 EDITION OF INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW 2014

17th to 21st July at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai Press Release by GJEPC This show is the key driver for greater trade and business in the segment. India International Jewellery Show is a "B2B show", which essentially permits only business visitors, Jewellery manufacturers, importers, traders, retailers & students from Gem & Jewellery Institute from India and overseas India International Jewellery Show is a prestigious fashion jewelry show which aims in providing the finest range of jewels designed by the well known personalities. This show is known to be the ultimate platform for the jewelry industries where the exhibitors get to explore their Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC giving speech at the inauguration of the India International Jewellery Show

business strategies. Over the years, this show is the most visited jewelry show which demonstrates the best and exclusive range of jewelry items. The show is categorized

he Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council

amongst the leading antique show which will surely sat-

(GJEPC) inaugurated the 31st Edition of India

isfy the requirements of the global customers.

International Jewellery Show at Bombay Exhibition

At the inauguration of the India International Jewellery

Centre, Goregaon – the paramount show for the trade in

Show, Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC, said, “As we embark

Asia. The show was organised from 17th to 21st July 2014

on the 31st edition of IIJS, our constant endeavor is to

and had 35000 visitors, over 850 plus exhibitors and 1800

promote trade within the gem & jewellery industry by cre-

booths from India and Overseas. Guest of Honour, Mr.

ating a world class platform where traders and manufac-

Karna Bahadur Thapa – Honorable Minister of Industry,

turers come together to build their network. The industry

Govt. of Nepal; Mr. Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC and Mr.

is also going through a transitional phase with the new

Pankaj Parekh, Vice Chairman.

government and the demands shared with them. IIJS 2014

The 5 day show have seen a congregation of delega-

will create more opportunities thereby promoting trade at

tions across India and from a host of international destina-

a global level. As we see an increase in participation from

tions such as UK, Hungary, China, Hong Kong, Uzbekistan,

various international companies, our aim is to position IIJS

Russia, UAE, Nepal, Myanmar, Iran, Thailand, Bangladesh.

as one of the world’s most sought after trade fairs.”

35,000 visitors, both international and from India visited the show over the course of 5 days, which is a testimony

› www.gjepc.org

to the growing popularity of the show.

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WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

2 Memories from INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY WEEK 2014 1 Flawless designs and finish have been the hallmark of Surya Golds in association with Swarovski presented a unique collection

2 Creations by the very Avant Garde designer

Laksh Pahuja have always been out-of-the-box designs and have left the audience applauding for more

3 Graduates of the Indian Institute of Gems and

Jewellery, Jaipur presented by Derewala World Jewellery created magic on the ramp and opened day three with the stunning collections

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8 10

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

4 Extremely talented graduates from the National Institute of Design,

10 The name Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers has for several

5 The P N Gadgil Jewellers Pvt Ltd in association with HRD Antwerp

11 Kolkata’s top jewellery brand Mahabir Danwar Jewellers and KIK

6 The Leading Jewellers of the World presentation featuring “The Bridal

12 Dipti-Amisha’s collection of dramatic ornaments undoubtedly “Reset

7 Presenting a collection called “Quirky Copper” Neha Sharma pushed

13 The Ganjam heritage jewellery has always been crafted in 22 carat gold

8 Jewels by Preeti presented necklaces flowed luxuriously down with

14 Farah Khan’s superlative glittering jewellery collection called

Ahmedabad showcased their innovative collections presented by Sun Jewels

displayed “The Bridal Collection”

Collection” was indeed a scintillating opening show, which featured sensational jewellery that will be coveted by women of all ages

the design envelope for her armlet-cum-ring, a striking finger shield, Haath Phool and the triangular enamelled earrings

bunches of floral designs encrusted with rubies. Long large pearl chains snuggled between strands of polkis and curved danglers for the ears had large pearls swinging at the end. A long necklace was majestic in its beauty when rubies, pearls and polkis alternated in a single piece with a trellis pendant at the end

9 Moni Agarwal’s fame has spread from Hyderabad and the designer has

carved an enviable reputation in the world of jewellery. Her creativity has a great blend of classic and unconventional touches that are eye-catchingly hypnotic

15 16

decades been known as creators of great beauty and craftsmanship when it comes to designing ornaments of a very high standard

Jewells displayed scintillating collections called “Bollywood Brides”

the Mindset” for jewellery lovers at the India International Jewellery Week 2014 presented by Nazraana in association with P C Jeweller

and dazzles with rubies, emeralds and top quality diamonds with attention to details, designs and finish being the hallmark of the brand

“Quaintrelle” showcased by the Gemmological Institute of India was a magical presentation

15 Vijay Golecha showcased a breathtaking array of bridal jewellery

from Golecha Jewels presented by HRD Antwerp at the India International Jewellery Week 2014 presented by Nazraana in association with P C Jeweller

16 Three graduates Rahul Luthra, Cherry Sahni and Sabina Batra from the Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery, Delhi surprised public with sensational collections

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT

AMBER TRAINING COURSES –

identyfing amber and immitations

By Michał KOSIOR May 2014, the IAA ran gemmological testing exercises with amber, selected natural resins and imitations.

The workshop was conducted by Jacek Ożdżeński,

certified gemmologist of the Deutsche Gemmologische

Gesellschaft and the PTGem Polish Gemmological Society, expert member of both DGG and PTGem, expert of the SRJ Polish Association of Jewellery Experts and an amber expert of the International Amber Association. Each participant was working at a workbench fully equipped with an individual source of white light, magnifying glasses, tweezers, a microscope and other necessary devices. The exercise was to review more than 200 natural specimens, preparations or finished products made of amber, resins or imitations, which were simultaneously displayed on screen with a discussion of their typical features. In part 2 of the exercise, every participant received 100 such preparations and cabochons each, for individual practice. The exercise was fully focused on the practical recognition of the materials, with a limited time dedicated to theory. The aim of the workshop was to present the features which are typical of various kinds of Baltic amber, other fossil resins and the most common imitations. The knowledge of testing methods and properties will allow the participants to preliminarily distinguish amber from its imitations or treated amber. It is also the basis for the further development of know-how and skills based on those already gained. This is the first workshop exercise that the IAA has offered to participants. So far, theoretical courses for amber sellers were carried out, with topics including geology, chemistry, history, biology and contemporary methods of amber treatment. The IAA is planning to extend its training offer to include both amateurs and professionals.

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Chinese amber classification

THE IAA meets THE NGTC By Michał KOSIOR

The

Association

of Baltic amber and its most common imitations. She also

(IAA) met the representatives of

International

Amber

emphasised that experience in working with amber and

China’s National Gems & Jewelry

Technology Administrative Centre (NGTC http://www. ngtc.gov.cn/ngtc/index_en.do). The IAA delegation included Dr Elżbieta Sontag

not just the testing equipment allow amber to be identified correctly. An NGTC representative presented the organisation, its main branches and lines of work. He also presented

(University of Gdańsk), Dr hab. Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka

the amber jewellery market in China, its main issues and

(Gdańsk University of Technology), Mariusz Gliwiński (IAA

amber product certification methods.

Vice-President, Ambermoda), Michał Kosior (IAA Vice-

The NGTC visitors were interested in information

President) and Agnieszka Klikowicz (IAA Certification

exchange on amber classification and product certifica-

System Officer). The Chinese laboratory was represented

tion. They presented the amber classification developed in

by 6 high-ranking experts from Beijing and Shenzhen

China, based on the Chinese precious stone classification.

(Zhang Jun, Ding Ting, Lan Yan, Zhang Tianyang, Wang

It is different from the IAA Classification, which is based on

Manjun and Ke Jie). The meeting was also attended by

the CIBJO Blue Book. We discussed these differences and

Vivian Yang, owner of SAGE Amber, China (2013 Amber

decided that a single cohesive system needed to be worked

Business Partner) and Joanna Gęsiarz (S&A).

out. Further meetings are scheduled for September.

After a visit at the Museum of Inclusions, Dr Elżbieta

The NGTC delegation visited Gdańsk on 22-27 June

Sontag introduced the visitors into the world of amber

at the invitation and expense of S&A SA, Gdynia. Apart

and inclusions. She emphasised that experience in work-

from the meeting with the IAA, the delegation saw the

ing with amber is a prerequisite to amber identification.

production process at S&A, visited the Gdańsk Amber

Dr Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka presented the chemical aspects

Museum and the Malbork Castle Amber Exhibition.

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT

IAA and NGTC meeting participants

INCLUSIONS

AMBER FOSSIL reveals

ancient reproduction in flowering plants Press Release by OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY

Even more remarkable is the microscopic image of pollen tubes growing out of two grains of pollen and penetrating the flow-

CORVALLIS, Ore. – A 100-million-year

er’s stigma, the receptive part of the female

old piece of amber has been discovered

reproductive system. This sets the stage for

which reveals the oldest evidence of sexual

fertilization of the egg and would begin the

reproduction in a flowering plant – a cluster

process of seed formation – had the repro-

of 18 tiny flowers from the Cretaceous Period

ductive act been completed.

– with one of them in the process of making

“In Cretaceous flowers we’ve never before Pollen tubes

some new seeds for the next generation.

seen a fossil that shows the pollen tube actu-

The perfectly-preserved scene, in a plant

ally entering the stigma,” said George Poinar,

now extinct, is part of a portrait created in the mid-Cre-

Jr., a professor emeritus in the Department of Integrative

taceous when flowering plants were changing the face of

Biology at the OSU College of Science. “This is the beauty

the Earth forever, adding beauty, biodiversity and food. It

of amber fossils. They are preserved so rapidly after enter-

appears identical to the reproduction process that “angio-

ing the resin that structures such as pollen grains and

sperms,” or flowering plants still use today.

tubes can be detected with a microscope.”

Researchers from Oregon State University and

The pollen of these flowers appeared to be sticky,

Germany published their findings on the fossils in the

Poinar said, suggesting it was carried by a pollinating

Journal of the Botanical Institute of Texas.

insect, and adding further insights into the biodiversity

The flowers themselves are in remarkable condition,

and biology of life in this distant era. At that time much

as are many such plants and insects preserved for all time

of the plant life was composed of conifers, ferns, moss-

in amber. The flowing tree sap covered the specimens and

es, and cycads. During the Cretaceous, new lineages of

then began the long process of turning into a fossilized,

mammals and birds were beginning to appear, along with

semi-precious gem. The flower cluster is one of the most

the flowering plants. But dinosaurs still dominated the

complete ever found in amber and appeared at a time

Earth.

when many of the flowering plants were still quite small.

“The evolution of flowering plants caused an enormous change in the biodiversity of life on Earth, especially in the tropics and subtropics,” Poinar said.

ABOUT THE OSU COLLEGE OF SCIENCE:

“New associations between these small flowering

As one of the largest academic units

plants and various types of insects and other animal life

at OSU, the College of Science has seven

resulted in the successful distribution and evolution of

departments and 12 pre-professional

these plants through most of the world today,” he said.

programs. It provides the basic science

“It’s interesting that the mechanisms for reproduction that

courses essential to the education

are still with us today had already been established some

of every OSU student, builds future

100 million years ago.”

leaders in science, and its faculty are

The fossils were discovered from amber mines in the

international leaders in scientific

Hukawng Valley of Myanmar, previously known as Burma.

research.

The newly-described genus and species of flower was named Micropetasos burmensis.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

INCLUSIONS Ancient flower

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PERSONALITY

altic Jewellery News had a great opportunity to interview a Flemish Profesor Max Laurent De Cock. As a young designer, he activelly built foundation

of jewellery design in Antwerp. Now he is sharing his knowledge and eperience with new generations. Severeal

years ago he started lecturing Chinese students as a guest lecturer. He was awarded a Certified Statement of Professional Knowledge by Ministerial decree in 1991, which meant an equalization of his degree with a doctoral thesis (PHd). He is also honored by title ‘honorary professor’ for his input in the pedagogic project of the department Arts & Design at the Beijing Fashion Institute & Technology.

THE SPACE BETWEEN – JEWELLERY GURU

How would you present yourself to jewellers? I present myself through my personal exhibitions. However, I do not work for jewellers or galleries at this moment. When I did not have income as a teacher, I was a completely independent designer. If I need to work for jewelers or galleries, I feel very limited, because all of them have certain conditions, which I do not fit in. When I work for myself, I am free and happy. What do you think about jewellery market in the Baltic sea region?

WHO HAS INSPIRED WESTERNERS AND EASTERNERS

I do not think much about jewellery markets. The last jewellery exhibition I saw I was in Beijing. Unfortunately the new designs I saw were very disappointing. However the last time I was in Gdansk, I found several Polish designers and schools, whose designs were better, more interesting and refreshing. How do you see amber in the world context? I am not a businessmen and my point of view on amber is somewhat coloured. Most of amber-jewellery designs are old fashioned, made for a large scale production. By all means, these are not real designs. Since they are made from a completely different attitude, not from love

By Odilija GUNTORIUTE

for the material.

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PERSONALITY Brooch “Color memory”, titanium/gold/diamond (1993)

Floating amber, black horn/amber/gold design (2010/11)

Ring “Gentle reminder Fujiang“, black horn/gold and steel wire design (2011)

Today Amber needs more respect, since it becomes

brothers Pomodoro, then from jewellery. The way they

more like a precious material, it should be treated like one.

worked with inside outside shapes inspired me tremen-

Many jewellers have different reasons why they

dously, it is still visible in my works today.

like to work with amber.

Have you learned anything from students?

What is yours?

Of course, we are not an island on itself, young peo-

For me the colour of amber is the most appealing fac-

ple keeps you fresh and young.

tor, as well as the warmth and softness, which makes it

I hope that when I will go on retirement, I will stay

easy to transform it to a new form.

healthy with a clear mind, so that I could still work with

Also, it is easy to combine it with other materials and

young people Why a new generation of Chinese artists appeal

light.

greatly to you? What is

I do not like to use the finished and polished amber. The rough amber material is better, because I can decide

it that you teach them?

how to form it and to shape it.

Their way of approaching ideas is slightly different

Why did you choose the path of jewellery de-

than from Western students, luckily. They have a lot of

sign and silversmithing ?

imagination, sometimes it even surprises me.

It was the charisma of Wim Ibens that persuaded me

I do not make different workshops for Chinese and

to enroll in the program, and later on become part of the

Western students. However, my own experience shows

‘atelier 35’. I absorbed the knowledge and skill of Wim

that the audience is different and culturally bounded.

Ibens, which helped to feed my and my fellow students

I do not need to teach them imagination. On the con-

hunger for further development and research in the fields

trary, I'm not the one who would force Western ideas to

of jewellery design and silversmithing.

them.

Which jewellery designers has inspired your

What I teach is personal jewellery experiences in gen-

work?

eral. Completely new and detailed solutions.

There was not much to be inspired by

Because when you give solutions students

jewellery design from other artist.

do not lose to much time to invent the

The first foundation of jewellery

solution. They should use the experi-

design in the Flanders was in the

ence that we know for so long.

Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp

Nowadays it isn't as easy for

- Atelier 35. Before that we had very

Chinese to be a jewellery designer

little information concerning educa-

as it is for European students. All

tion in jewellery design. The only edu-

students are contaminated by too

cation you could get was in technical

much information that they get

jewellery schools.

from internet. I try to empty their

I was inspired more by sculpture works from the two Italian artist

Today Amber needs MORE

RESPECT

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ballast from over consumption of information.

PERSONALITY

AN EXAMPLE OF PROFESOR MAX LAURENT DE COCK TEACHING APPROACH

Pendant - white agate/amber ball/gold/steal wire (2008/09)

The last workshop he did in Beijing was about the

directly from the mind on paper that by definition already

pureness of heart. He gave instructions on how to find

is contaminated, but directly from any material that can

your own identity. It is important for every jeweler to know

support the feeling.

how to do research and to find the space between. “The

The most creative moment is when someone during

Space between” refers to time and action between the

his works will see things happen, which he never could

mind and hands, an invisible time we can't measure, but

have imagined on paper. These moments are very impor-

it necessary for existence. Without this space we cannot

tant, this is “The Space between”. In these moments

do new creations. Hands are lead by the mind. If you do

we can be original. You can develop more of a personal

not use your free mind, all you do is labour. Because you

identity because it is less contaminated, then it would

are still restricted by memory. The mind is the ignition of

have been if you started from a first drawing.

creation, it can change only through research, otherwise

The Space between can be taken as a definition as well

we copy from memory. So it is necessary to create the

as a concept. If you see clearly, you can see space between

invisible space, which is the e(motion) we can't explain.

everywhere, only with different eyes and feelings.

In Profesor‘s Max Laurent De Cock workshops the use

Some explanation about the Space Between

of materials is free. Because when a given assignment asks to work in a material (as amber), students need to do

An unconventional way of thinking, we call this lateral

the research. The real value of material is not necessarily

thinking. Pureness of feelings without telling a story too

the market price, the manner of how respectfully students

obviously. Everyone knows what is time and you have to

work with material can give a more intrinsic value.

use it as a fourth dimension, an invisible space itself, there

Profesor Max Laurent De Cock has a very strčit opinon

where the pureness can exist.

on drawing: “What I cannot accept is when students

You can start with an idea how you feel space or cre-

start from a drawing. They can have an idea where to go

ating space. What is not written is also a part to complete

and search for the most suitable materials. Starting from

space. The space between is necessary to complete the

their favourite material(s), doing research in possibilities/

story, to find a balance what is visible and not.

combinations. In some case it is not necessary to have a

Easy and understandable example:

story, the story gets life by the process developing, not

If you want to talk about “a certain beauty” (which

necessary expressed by words. I can only accept drawings

can be very different in feelings and it depends the cul-

and sketches as note from research, directly from material

ture) and you use a flower as an example, it is too obvi-

that support the idea, what they really want.”

ous. You need to find another way to talk about what is beauty, you should try to go more indepth, to catch the poem behind.

The concept of the SPACE BETWEEN is the time between mind and hands.

The different way of thinking is a kind of research where they can become more original/personal. Not starting

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100

LET’S PROMOTE AMBER TOGETHER SHARE WITH US YOUR STORY!

SO MANY EXHIBITIONS! SO MANY STANDS! HOW CAN A BUYER SEE YOU? BE VISIBLE! BE WITH THE BALTIC JEWELLERY NEWS!

“Baltic Jewellery News” / Aušros Vartų st. 15–5, LT-01129 Vilnius, Lithuania / Tel./Fax +370 5 212 08 23 / E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com

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BOOK REVIEW

Contemporary Jewellers: Interviews with European Artists Book Review by Céline BROWNING Roberta Bernabei. Contemporary Jewellers: Interviews with European Artists. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2011. ISBN 978-1845207700 Contemporary Jewellers is an important read for anyone interested in the state of art jewelry today. The beauty and interest in this book comes when distin-

vessel for communicating a wide variety of ideas. These

guished makers address some of the most potent and

range from social commentary to autobiographical nar-

salient questions in contemporary jewelry. The book is

rative to more insular conversations such as the politics

comprised of a robust introduction, 25 short interviews

of adornment, the nature of beauty, and the mutability

with jewelry artists, several pages of luscious color plates,

of value. Bernabei defines sensitized jewelry as work in

and a short conclusion. This structure is designed to be

which form is content; jewelry concerned with the rela-

helpful for students and those getting started in the

tionships of colors, materials, and wearability.

field. The brevity of the interviews often leaves room for

The interviews that make up the heart of this book are

misinterpretation, and consequently, some background

engaging and thought provoking with occasional bursts

knowledge of each artist’s work would prove helpful. In

of humor. The artists speak with a conversational tone,

short, Contemporary Jewellers is best supplemented by

and their (sometimes) polemical viewpoints provide good

a healthy amount of outside research for images and con-

starting points for classroom dialog. Each interview gives

textual information, or the text would best serve those at

us a tiny glimpse into the inner workings of the artist’s

the intermediate stages of their academic career.

studio practice, focusing on how his or her work is devel-

Bernabei begins with a historical overview of

oped and what concepts drive his or her creative think-

European jewelry from the Middle Ages to the present

ing. With few exceptions, Bernabei chooses her questions

day. All too often, the studio art movement is touted as

well. Potent and open ended, designed to touch on some

the father of the studio jewelry movement, leaving stu-

of the most fundamental issues in the field, her queries

dents with little sense of the origins of the discipline. It

have a way of unearthing something surprising and con-

is therefore refreshing to read a history of contemporary

tentious in even the most conservative and formal jeweler.

jewelry that draws parallels to the working practices of

Each interview is structured similarly, with a list of

jewelers through the centuries, charting how techniques

questions that prompts the artists to reflect on how they

and ideals have changed, and the ways in which jewelry’s

develop their ideas, where they draw their inspiration,

past has influenced its present.

their relationship to materials, the importance of function

Bernabei then makes a point of creating a distinction

to their work, and advice for jewelry students. Despite

between two kinds of jewelry on the scene today–jew-

the author’s best efforts to provide an encompassing

elry as content and sensitized jewelry. Jewelry as content,

summary of the wide variety of views presented in these

according to the author, uses the format of jewelry as a

25 interviews, each issue remains deliciously obscure. I

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102

for the successful development of the field. The artists interviewed in Contemporary Jewellers are not afraid

with plenty of ground left to cover. Take, for example, the

to make connections between contemporary jewelry and

many differing opinions on the subject of the handmade.

a host of fields outside the conceptual art world including

Bruno Martinazzi finds that direct contact with materials

fashion, design, and a larger history of adornment. When

is integral to the development of his work. He suggests

asked about the direction of contemporary jewelry, Ruudt

that, “with our hands we receive the answers asked by

Peters jubilantly exclaims, “Anyone can make anything. I

the materials.” (137) Gijs Bakker disagrees. He has sworn

love fashion jewelry, I love the jewelry on the street, and I

off working with materials directly, explaining, “I don’t

love the jewelry that people make and wear. It’s ok.” (159) The clarity and commitment of this book’s mission is

want the sweat and tears present my jewelry.” (56) The chosen artists are all strongly committed to the

admirable. It aims to provide primary source documenta-

format of jewelry. This allows them to approach the

tion of the motivations behind influential European jewel-

interview questions with a great degree of intensity and

ers working today. As such, it will certainly be a boon to

insight. It is easy to overlook the big questions that are

educators and practitioners alike. Toward the end of the

often taken for granted in a field. For art jewelry, these

book, I found myself wishing that one or two interviews

questions include: What does it mean for something to

had been conducted jointly to turn the focus from a single

be wearable? What is function? What is the cultural rel-

artist’s practice to the future of the field. Here’s hoping

evance of jewelry today? When was it that someone first

for another book.

looked at an object and experienced the mystifying need to hold it to their bodies, to pour into that object a meaning simultaneously about and beyond themselves? I suspect that this strangely ethereal power is what drew many of us to jewelry in the first place, but the opportunities to discuss the deep, pervasive, eons-old power of jewelry are disturbingly few. In reading this collection of brief interviews, the attractive force of this mode of expression bleeds through the pages and eddies in the contrasting responses of experienced and innovative artists. There is a general celebration of disagreement and ambiguity that comes through in these interviews. The result is confident, strong, playful, and deep work. It is free from the self-doubt and identity crisis that so often haunts contemporary jewelry when overburdened with conceptual posturing. While many jewelers openly acknowledge that there are problems in the field, their overall tone is enthusiastic and hopeful. Their passion for their work and dedication to their field is reflected in the emotions displayed when the relationship between jewelry and fine art is mentioned. Reactions ranged from frustration to humor to dismissal. Bernhard Schobinger says it best. “… I don’t feel like a little brother of fine art. I think jewelry art is an independent art and not under the influence of fine art.” (197) Schobinger’s declaration of autonomy is refreshing. All too often, contemporary jewelers seem unwilling to accept their heritage, and academic writers seem bent on finding them a place at the table with painters and sculptors as the awkward stepchild of the studio arts movement rather than using historical context as a foundation

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BOOK REVIEW

wouldn’t have it any other way. Well founded differences of opinion and healthy debate are signs of a robust field

JEWELLERY CRIME

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JOGS Fall Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 4–7 August 2014 Venue:Tucson, USA jogsshow.com info@jogsshow.com The Norwegian Gold & Watch Trade Fair Date: 21–24 August 2014 Venue: Norway Trade Fairs and Thon Hotel Arena www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Copenhagen Jewellery and Watch Show Date: 22–24 August 2014 Venue: Lokomotivvaerkstedet, Copenhagen, Denmark www.cphjs.dk info@cphjws.dk Japan Jewellery Fair Date: 26–28 August 2014 Venue: Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center, Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com Ambermart - International Amber Fair Date: 28–30 August 2014 Venue: Amber Expo, Gdansk, Poland ambermart.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl International Jewellery London Date: 31 August – 2 September 2014 Venue: Olympia, London, United Kingdom www.jewellerylondon.com ijl.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk VICENZAORO Fall 2014 Date: 6–10 September 2014 Venue: Fiera Di Vicenza, Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaoro.com info@vicenzafiera.it 54th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair Date: 9–13 September 2014 Venue: Impact Exhibition and Convention Center, Bangkok, Thailand bangkokgemsfair.com info@bangkokgemsfair.com Iberjoya Date: 10–14 September 2014 Venue: Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/madridjoya_01 madridjoya@ifema.es 2014 Shenzhen International Jewellery Fair Date: 11–15 September 2014 Venue: Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center, Shenzhen, China www.newayfairs.com salescjgf-hk@ubm.com Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 15–18 September 2014 Venue: AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.asiafja.com salesafj-hk@ubm.com Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 15–21 September 2014 Venue: AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.jewellerynetasia.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

Portojoia Date: 25–28 September 2014 Venue: Exponor - Porto International Fair, Porto, Portugal www.portojoia.exponor.pt info@exponor.com

Dubai International Jewellery Week Date: 3–6 December 2014 Venue: Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, United Arab Emirates www.jewelleryshow.com info@jewelleryshow.com

International Jewellery Tokyo Autumn Date: 1–3 October 2014 Venue: Sunshine City Convention Center, Tokyo, Japan www.ijt.jp/aki ijt-eng@reedexpo.co.jp

Mineralien Hamburg Date: 5–7 December 2014 Venue: CCH – Congress Center Hamburg, Germany mineralien-hamburg.de lara.meske@hamburg-messe.de

JUNWEX Moscow Date: 1–5 October 2014 Venue: All Russian Exhibition Center, Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru/junwex overseas@restec.ru

VICENZAORO Winter Date: 23–28 January 2015 Venue: Fiera Di Vicenza, Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaorowinter.com info@vicenzafiera.it

Gold Silver Time Date: 2–4 October 2014 Venue: Warsaw, Poland www.zlotosrebroczas.com w.gontarska@mct.com.pl Intergem Date: 3–6 October, 2014 Venue: Messe Idar-Oberstein, IdarOberstein, Germany www.intergem.de office@intergem.de Istanbul Jewelry Show October Date: 16–19 October 2014 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com Gold Silver Watch Date: 17–19 October 2014 Venue: Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre, Helsinki, Finland http://www.messukeskus.com info@finnexpo.fi Gemworld Munich 2014 Date: 24–26 October 2014 Venue: Munich Trade Fair Center, Munich, Germany munichshow.com exhibitor@munichshow.com Aru-Astana Date: 6–9 November 2014 Venue: EC "Korme", Astana, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz kazexpo@kazexpo.kz Malaysia International Jewellery Festival 2014 (Autumn Edition) Date: 7–10 November 2014 Venue: Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Kuala Lampur, Malaysia www.mij.com.my info@mij.com.my Jeweller Expo Ukraine Date: 13–16 November 2014 Venue: Kyiv Expo Plaza Exhibition Center, Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua jewel@kmkya.kiev.ua Hong Kong International Jewelry Manufacturer’s Show Date: 27–30 November 2014 Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong www.jewelryshows.org visitors@jewelry.org.hk

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The Jewellery Show Date: 1–5 February 2015 Venue: Birmingham, United Kingdom sales@thejewelleryshow.com www.jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com JUNWEX Date: 4–8 February 2015 Venue: ExpoForum Convention and Exhibition Centre, St. Petersburg, Russia eng.rjexpert.ru overdeas@restec.ru Istanbul Jewelry Show Munich Date: 12–15 February 2015 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com Inhorgenta Munich Date: 20–23 February 2015 Venue: Messe Munchen, Munich, Germany www.inhorgenta.com info@inhorgenta.de Signature Mumbai 2015 Date: 20–23 February 2015 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs-signature.org HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 4–8 March 2015 Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong SAR www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en exhibitions@hktdc.org Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 12–15 March 2015 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul www.ubmrotaforte.com inquiries@rotaforte.com XII International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 18–21 March 2015 Venue: Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com ad@ambertrip.com Amberif 2015 - 22. International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 25–28 March 2015 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl

MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS

MAJOR TRADE FAIRS IN August 2014 – March 2015

FLASHBACKS

FLASHBACKS FROM THE AMBER TRIP

“GIPSY PARTY”  Amber Trip LOVES Taiwanese!

FLASHBACKS

CEO OF AMBER TRIP GIEDRIUS GUNTORIUS GIVES HIS GRATITUDE

4 5

1 For friendship and cooperation Amber Trip Ambassador in Germany Knut Rudloff

2 For friendship and support Mr. Tsai Fu-Min, Mrs. Vilia Fehrn and Mr. Amber

3 Congratulations award for

the best stand! JSC “Amber Yuvelirprom” Commercial Director Ekaterina Mashutova

4 For friendship and brotherhood Slavek

For friendship and brotherhood Edvardas

FLASHBACKS

Director of “Vilalta Accessories” Svetlana Baklanova with her colleague

Amber Trip Ambassador in Germany Knut Rudloff and Mauro Ongaro

Audornė Jukneviciute, owner of “Italo Import-Export” Salvatore Conte and their friend

Director of “Stoneland” Laszlo Palinkas with Márta Hernádiz

Prof. Giedemyn Jablonski with wife

Barbara Strzała Jeziorska, Tomasz Ćwikałowski and Elżbieta Balak

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FLASHBACKS Director of “Alexandra Gold” Aydin Colakoglu and CEO of “Amber Trip” Giedrius Guntorius

Jassim Bouhamad

Marlena and Michal Szalapski, “Beryl”

Izidorius and Slavek ROCKED THE FLOOR

Laima Romanovaite and Antanas Dunauskas

President of International Amber Association Michał Kosior

Liudmila project manager at Amber Trip and Andrzej from “BERYL”

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NEW IN THE BALTIC SEA REGION

INVITES YOU TO VISIT THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL FORUM OF THE AMBER INDUSTRY, AMBER WORLD KALININGRAD, which will take place October 17–19, 2014, in the Russian Federation’s furthermost western region, Kaliningrad. The forum is supported by the government of the Russian Federation, government of the Kaliningrad region and the Kaliningrad Amber Factory, the only company that focuses on the industrial production of raw amber. Amber World Kaliningrad combines an excellent international business program with presentations and exhibitions of the world’s best amber products and collections from the international jewelry industry. Only at the forum you will have the chance to see exhibits of worldrenowned museums, craftspeople, and artists. You can also make lucrative deals with jewelry manufacturers and discuss the supply of raw amber materials with the world’s only enterprise that focuses on its production. The forum’s business program will discuss issues surrounding the development and promotion of the jewelry manufacturing industry, with additional sections devoted to the development of tourism and transportation projects, which will bring together leading global and Russian companies and development institutions.

WE EAGERLY LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOU OCTOBER 17–19 IN THE AMBER SPORTS PALACE IN KALININGRAD. THE EVENT BEGINS AT 11:00. For more information on registration, participation, and other questions visit our website amberforum.com

Калиниград

МЕЖДУНАРОДНЫЙ ЯНТАРНЫЙ ФОРУМ

1ST

INTERNATIONAL AMBER FORUM

17-19 OCTOBER

2014 KALININGRAD THE AMBER SPORTS PALACE