4 minute read
Quality in Wine
Written By: Celeste Pontifex, Manager, Platinum Wines, A Division of R.L.Seale & Co. Ltd.
As a wine supplier, I often get asked, "How good is that wine? Will it give me a headache?" or "What's the quality vs price like?". My usual response is to go into a brief explanation of the winery, where the wine is from, the style of wine it is, and if the wine is sustainably farmed.
The fact is that producing premium wine isn't cheap for a winemaker and vineyard owner. Inexpensive wines are supposed to be enjoyable for a short time after purchase. They need to be made on a large scale, and the winemaking done is fast, often using automation and chemicals. Mechanical harvesters usually pick the grapes, and oak chips are used to add flavour. Sometimes powdered acid is added to balance high sugar levels (if the wines are made in a warm country). This is usually above board and safe, but in Europe, acidification is not allowed at all. This is why vintages vary greatly from the 'Old World' countries. For this reason, we encourage restaurateurs to taste new vintages of wines before a season begins so that they can make the best decisions for their wine lists.
In contrast, premium winemaking happens at a slower pace; harvesting is done only by hand, and grapes are selected carefully. This low-volume winemaking involves the maturation of wine in casks and different fermentation techniques beforehand, like malolactic, which adds a creamy, richer texture to the wines. A lot less chemical interaction takes place as well. For larger wineries, grapes are picked and then often transported for miles to the winery. In order to keep the grapes fresh, sulfur dioxide needs to be added in this process. This doesn't have to be done for smaller properties, as the vineyards are in close proximity.
Naturally, the price levels do have to rise because of the time taken to make these wines. Still, these wines, in turn, offer a more complex taste, a higher and more expansive flavour profile, and have the capacity to improve over many years in a cellar as well.
"I don't want a wine that's too acid" is a comment I have heard a thousand times. The truth is that acidity is a super important attribute of a wine. Grapes for premium wines are often grown in vineyards on hills or in the foothills of the mountains. This allows the grapes to experience cool nights, warm days, and a huge temperature swing between the two which is important for a balanced taste. Acidity allows the wine to age in the bottle and keeps it fresh. It is essentially a natural preservative. So when you read about the winery's elevation in wine-tasting notes, this is why they mention it. Inexpensive wines are planted on flat plains and don't benefit from a diurnal temperature.
Another statement I might hear from a customer might be, "I prefer a sweeter wine". Most wines are made in a dry style, but inexpensive wines sold in supermarkets are sweeter because sugar makes the taste more attractive to mainstream customers. If the weather doesn't allow the grapes to fully ripen, they don't have a sufficient level of sugar to balance the acidity. Some wineries, therefore, add grape must. Also, wineries can stop the fermentation process, which leaves a higher level of residual sugar in wines as the yeast can no longer eat the sugar hence ending the conversion into alcohol.
At the end of the day, you can find good, well-made wine at several price points. It is also quite subjective, so it also depends on what a consumer feels like drinking. If you want to find out about wine, do the research, google the winery, and often you can tell how big or small an operation is through their website. Also, See if they talk about the elevation of vineyard sites, barrel age, or hand-picking of the grapes. Another helpful tip is to look at the label to see if the wine is bottled at the property. Alternatively, call your local wine supplier to find out! Happy drinking!