BarberSociety Magazine int. Fall issue 2023 (in English)

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KEVIN BOON

LISTEN TO YOUR INNER CHILD

FOCUS ON HEALTH

INS & OUTS OF PHYSICAL AND MENTAL HEALTH

A PATH TO FREEDOM INTERVIEW WITH EOIN MCCARTHY

INNOVATIVE

BUSINESS CONCEPTS

RHIANNAH BALCOMBE

A CREATIVE

JACK-OF-ALL-TRADES

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE FALL 2023 | #17 | € 13,95

Hair: Rhiannah Balcombe (UK)

Photography: Sean Taylor King

Creative Direction: Underfound Studio

Model: James Lancelotte Buena @rhiannahrose, @theunderfound

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Having returned from holiday, I was determined to lose those holiday pounds as soon as possible. I readjusted my lifestyle by eating and drinking healthier and hitting the gym regularly again. After I have been on holiday for a few weeks, my back and knee problems disappear. Unfortunately, they immediately resurface as soon as I return to work in the barbershop. A good time to focus on 'health' in this edition. We asked Technogym training manager Thijmen Groen to create a training plan with extra tips for complaints caused by our profession as barbers. Find out how you can incorporate exercises to prevent injuries.

This profession is actually top-class sport

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EDITORIAL

A HEALTHIER AUTUMN KICK-START

I am not the only one who suffers from physical problems due to our profession. During the interviews for this edition, this became clear once again. Kevin Boon, international hair artist, compares our profession to top-class sport. I can totally relate. He tells us how he deals with this, emphasises that mental well-being is also important and gives us a great message. In addition, in his interview you can read about the interesting developments he has undergone that have led to his success.

In the hustle and bustle of the barbershop, it can sometimes be difficult to take care of your own mental well-being.

Eoin McCarthy believes that the right work-life balance is essential to avoid slipping into burnout. He has adapted his business model accordingly and as a coach, works from a holistic perspective with a lot of emphasis on mind, body, and soul. He also challenges the trend for barbers to talk to their clients about mental health. An interesting perspective: read his story including an attractive offer regarding his education platform.

Our columnists Chris Foster and Dennis van Lierop also have good, practical tips to improve your mental well-being and reduce stress. Take advantage of them!

Innovative business concepts

A holiday gives me space to reflect, where ideas bubble up about new activities or changes to existing ones. In this autumn edition, we focus on 'business concepts'. Two barbers talk about their chair rental concept and England's Rhiannah Balcombe, also an actress, discusses her unique concept consisting of a creative mix of activities.

In addition, this edition includes an entertaining, all-in-the family story by Jose Navarro; a Q&A with the winner of the German Barber Battle; a step-by-step of the mullet; and Barbers & the city Lugano. Of course, the latest trends for autumn and product news are also not to be missed in this autumn edition.

We hope this issue inspires you to take care of yourself. Because if you are healthy, it's also good for your business.

Happy reading!

PS: Please mark Sunday 14th April 2024 in your diary! Because that's when the 7th edition of BarberSociety Live is taking place!

Want to watch the educational and inspiring shows from BarberSociety

Live 2023? Check them out on YouTube: YouTube

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LISTEN TO YOUR 'INNER CHILD'

INTERVIEW WITH KEVIN BOON

INTERVIEW
@boonkvn, @kopbelgium 6

Exactly five years ago, Kevin Boon (32) was featured in our autumn 2018 edition because the previous year he had won the international barber awards in Nuremberg and was named 'Best International Barber of 2017'. In those five years, he has undergone tremendous development. Today, he runs the successful salon KÖP in Belgium and is a highly sought-after creative director, skillfully moving between salon, academy, and film set. He has participated in numerous international photo and video productions in which he created fantastic hairstyles. His expertise and dedication are reflected in his diverse projects. Known for his exceptional and forwardlooking creativity, he showed part of his latest collection 'UNDERWATER', a combination of design, music, branding and creativity, at this year's BarberSociety Live. We spoke to him about his journey over the past five years and he talks about his transformation from barber to artist and successfully positioning himself and his salon as a brand.

The launch of Köp

“As a result of winning the international barber awards in 2017, I gained recognition and hence a larger client base. Since people also wanted to be trained by me, I started a barbershop and academy in partnership with 1o1 Barbers at the time. After about a year and a half, I decided to continue on my own and took over the barbershop. Shortly after that, the corona time arrived with the lockdowns, giving me an opportunity to think about my future. I then promptly took action and launched my new brand Köp in collaboration with Fabrice Oyedele with whom I have a good connection. Fabrice worked for an online booking software company.

He is also a photographer and I make collections with him. During the lockdown, we worked on Köp's marketing and branding and reviewed the academy's strategy. We replaced the oneday master class with a threeday one and started focusing on courses that last several months. Because we received questions in our academy about social media, websites and online profiling, we spend 50 per cent of the time in our courses and trainings on 'hair', i.e. the techniques and styles, and 50 per cent on online content creation to profile yourself. For the latter, we have set up a separate company called AMKA, which is run by Fabrice. Fabrice and I feel and complement each other, he is basically 'my husband without benefits', haha!"

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Unisex

“Since last March, Köp has become a unisex concept, including colouring for women. From a business point of view, this is the best choice I've made! My wife and I both had our own business in different premises, which meant double costs. When her lease expired, we merged into one premises and started serving both men and women under the Köp name. We are now a five-member team of three barbers and two hair stylists. I love the barbering industry 100% but honestly, I also have the ambition to delve more into women’s hairdressing and I see that as a challenge. This is also fuelled by my wife who is a fantastic hair stylist. I am very much looking forward to what the future holds on that front."

International hair artist

“Under my own name Kevin Boon, I operate as an international hair artist. Particularly last year, my international career took off. Belgium is a small country and has its limitations. It’s difficult to develop as an international artist. I think my new branding and collaboration with brands in creating new collections have been important in getting international exposure. Now that I have my affairs in order in Belgium, everything is back on track and everything is running smoothly in terms of personnel, I have the space to focus more on abroad. Especially now that I also work with my wife in the same building.”

UNDERWATER

“When I was asked to show something on the main stage in front of 2,500 people for the

Top Hair fair in Düsseldorf, it was the ultimate dream come true. I wanted to present something that would stay with people. I had several ideas, but I felt it had to be something close to my heart. I was once asked in a podcast: 'who are you inspired by'? I didn't really have an answer to that but gradually realised that this was myself as a little boy. My young 'me'. My collection show 'UNDERWATER' is a result of the fact that, as a little boy, I loved to lie in the bath with my head under water. There, underwater, I had all kinds of fantasies and my creativity emerged. I thought of underwater monsters hiding from society. My collection 'UNDERWATER' emerged from

those fantasies. We are brought up with an image of other people that is imposed on us more or less under pressure from society. In my youth, I was a talented footballer. Besides playing football, I was interested in fashion and hair and making my own clothes. I had fantasies about that but that was suppressed by society because I wanted to fulfil the image of the talented, tough football player. I had an ego problem that made hairdressing or fashion school, my greatest desire, not an option. It felt to me like I was suppressed in my expression, my creativity. In our society, the teacher made me behave, the football coach made me behave, I had to be

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photography: © Fabrice Oyedele & José Donatz Fotografie
Business-wise, this is the best choice I've made!

quiet, I was not allowed to be wild, I had to have discipline. Creativity ebbed away. When you get older, you realise that discipline is important, but it did take away part of my identity as a child. With my 'UNDERWATER' show, I want to show that you can bring your imagination back to life, that you shouldn't be afraid of what 'society' thinks about it.”

Collections with meaning

“I have just written a new concept 'Raised by Barbie'. In the 1990s, Barbie depicted perfection. Barbie actually represents the current social media era. Social media is interesting on a business level, but on a mental health level, it makes people insecure. In the past, I made collections that were aesthetic. Now I want to bring collections that are not only aesthetic but also have a deeper meaning. How beautiful is it when my collections touch and inspire people and perhaps influence consumers? With 'UNDERWATER' and 'Raised

by Barbie', I encourage people to let the child in them live and not always adapt to the demands of society. Now that I have children of my own (ed: 5 and 8 years old), I notice that sometimes I am even more childlike than they are, haha! Of course, values and norms are important, you have to help and respect each other but the creativity of your 'inner child' should not suffer as a result. There is definitely a good balance to be struck in that area. Stay humble and listen to your 'inner child’. Keep believing in the fantasies and ambitions you have in your head. Above all, listen to yourself and not too much to others. I like to give that as a message to my students.”

Emotion is key

In your show during BarberSociety Live, you talked about the term 'Sensation Transference.' Can you explain that? Kevin: "Packaging strongly influences the purchase of a product. It evokes an emotion that makes people buy the

product. I discovered that emotion is the basis of many behaviours. This intrigues me so much that I also try to evoke a feeling, an emotion in others in all my activities.

In 'UNDERWATER', I spoke about a little boy, Jan. At the end of the show, it becomes clear that I am that little boy (ed.: Kevin Jan Boon). In addition, for 'UNDERWATER', I created AL24, an NFT representing a robot that guides the audience through my visionary 'UNDERWATER' creations during my live presentation. Both elements evoke emotions, giving my message greater impact.”

Ups & Downs

When asked about his ups & downs over the past five years, Kevin says: "The ups mainly include the concept for Köp and the fame I have gained with it in Belgium. This also applies to the name Kevin Boon. The nomination as one of the best salons in Belgium where I ended up in the top five has certainly contributed

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to this. It is great that the vision we developed in the lockdown era has been put into practice so successfully. Besides Fabrice as a digital expert, I also work with Dennis van Lierop (ed: columnist in BarberSociety Magazine). He is my manager and business coach. Actually, he is like a father to me! Marlon, with whom I grew up, runs Maccasy Agency and he is the videographer and graphic editor in our team. Together with him, I created 'UNDERWATER'. Both individually but also as a team, we have grown tremendously. That is perhaps the biggest 'up'!"

"On the other hand, there are the downs. Especially in terms of mental health. I kept running, working very long hours, working every day from 9am-6pm in the shop and teaching four evenings from 7pm-23pm. For years, I combined that with giving master classes, shows abroad, etc. Because I was absent from the shop a lot, I was also struggling financially.

The business was not performing well enough. Physically and mentally, it was a war of attrition. I wore out a lot of accountants and my current accountant has actually become my business partner, something I desperately needed. Someone to guide me financially on the next steps I want to take. You have your daily cash flow, but the question is 'what do you keep and how do you keep it?' That was a real struggle for me. My biggest challenge in business has been patience, which I have learned over the past few years. You can be creative but being creativewith-numbers is just as important! How do you handle business, handle your money, supervise staff, control marketing, and allocate budgets? All that hard work and these wise lessons have made me the person I am today. A down-to-earth, patient guy who is creative, haha! I am now in a position where I can truly say I am happy in terms of

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Emotion is the basis of many behaviours

When I look in the mirror, I see a giant

my business, on the progression we are making and what is to come, the collaborations.”

Academy

About the plans with the academy, Kevin says: "We are in the process of developing an academy/school where lessons are taught over a longer period of 20 weeks. We believe that is much more effective and fulfilling. From January, we will start two classes involving great teachers. I myself will be responsible for the creative part. Ultimately, the intention is for the teachers to become business partners and for Köp to expand that way.”

Key to success

Asking about the key to his success, Kevin says: "I see myself bigger than I really am. When I look in the mirror, I see a giant. But in essence, I’m an ordinary, simple guy. But because I see myself as a giant, I set the bar so high that it's almost too high. I’m a perfectionist in all areas. That did make me who I am today. Seeing myself this way works for me as the best way to grow. I have also learned to trust myself, to take matters into my own hands.”

Vision for the future

“We are now creating our own community of young

talented people who are committed to our businesses and concept and want to work with us. We have found the right people to expand Köp, there are going to be multiple businesses and academies. That way I can help others. It is very nice that something we started with hard work is being continued by others, a legacy. Of course, this creates a lot of challenges, but I need that. I am now part of a team with the same vision and together we can take it forward. In another five years, I hope we will be a healthy growing company that many people can benefit from!”

‘'UNDERWATER' by Kevin Boon reflects the zeitgeist, trends, and currents of our modern society. Check out his 'UNDERWATER' show on BarberSociety Live, scan the QR code: YouTube

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KEVIN BOON

BELGIUM 12

Hair: Kevin Boon (BE)

Photography: Fabrice Oyedele

Art Direction & fashion: Kevin Boon

Artist Management: HALO Edutainment / Dennis van Lierop @boonkvn / @kopbelgium

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Hair: Kevin Boon (BE)

Photography: Fabrice Oyedele

Art Direction & fashion: Kevin Boon

Artist Management: HALO Edutainment / Dennis van Lierop @boonkvn / @kopbelgium

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MARY STÄRK

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GERMANY Hair: Mary Stärk (DE) Photography: Tuba Demirbas @barbersheart
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Hair: Mary Stärk (DE) Photography: Tuba Demirbas @barbersheart

AARON MICHAEL

UNITED KINGDOM 18
Hair: Aaron Michael (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes
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Model: Malcolm Taylor @am_barbershop

EWAN MAWHINNEY

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UNITED KINGDOM

Collection: LINEOUT

Hair: Ewan Mawhinney (UK)

Assistants: Paul devil and Kaylah hall

Photography: Andy Kruczek

Makeup: Katy Bird

Models: Tee Ritson, Anton Laria (both Barrow Raiders rugby league players), Will Rimmer, Shaun Turner, Josh Cooper @ewanmawhinney10

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Collection: LINEOUT

Hair: Ewan Mawhinney (UK)

Assistants: Paul devil and Kaylah hall

Photography: Andy Kruczek

Makeup: Katy Bird

Models: Tee Ritson, Anton Laria (both Barrow Raiders rugby league players), Will Rimmer, Shaun Turner, Josh Cooper

@ewanmawhinney10

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Collection: LINEOUT

Hair: Ewan Mawhinney (UK)

Assistants: Paul devil and Kaylah hall

Photography: Andy Kruczek

Makeup: Katy Bird

Models: Tee Ritson, Anton Laria (both Barrow Raiders rugby league players), Will Rimmer, Shaun Turner, Josh Cooper @ewanmawhinney10

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JÜRGEN NIEDERL

26 AUSTRIA

Collection: 2023/24

Hair: Jürgen Niederl (AT)

Photography: Lex Karelly, Alexander Karelly

Location & Drinks: by Kalte Ente Graz (Tom Legat)

@holytigerbarbershop

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Collection: 2023/24

Hair: Jürgen Niederl (AT)

Photography: Lex Karelly, Alexander Karelly

Location & Drinks: by Kalte Ente Graz (Tom Legat)

@holytigerbarbershop

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Collection: 2023/24

Hair: Jürgen Niederl (AT)

Photography: Lex Karelly, Alexander Karelly

Location & Drinks: by Kalte Ente Graz (Tom Legat)

@holytigerbarbershop

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UNITED KINGDOM

DEAN GLEESON & ASA NUNN

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Collection: MODERN CLASSICS

Hair: Dean Gleeson & Asa Nunn (UK)

Photography: Andy Kruczek @dean_gleeson_ / @asanunnhair / @mengo_male_grooming

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Collection: MODERN CLASSICS

Hair: Dean Gleeson & Asa Nunn (UK)

Photography: Andy Kruczek @dean_gleeson_ / @asanunnhair / @mengo_male_grooming

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FORGING A PATH TO FREEDOM

36 INTERVIEW @eoinmccarthyhair, @onezeroone.education

INTERVIEW WITH EOIN MCCARTHY

Eoin McCarthy (AU) is not afraid to change directions and venture off the beaten track. At age 29, he has an impressive track record of following his dreams wherever they may take him. He’s been a successful professional cyclist, award-winning barber and well-known educator. In 2023, he is starting a new chapter through the launch of One Zero One Education and his Accelerated Mentorship Programme for barbershop owners and self-employed barbers designed to create the next generation of leaders.

Following your passion always comes with ups and downs. Fear of failure, anxieties, self-doubt – they’re all feelings and emotions we experience in our personal and professional lives. Having worked in various roles in the barbering industry for nearly a decade, Eoin has a good feel for the mental health and life-work balance issues barbers often face. This is why the One Zero One 3-day course takes a holistic approach with less focus on hair and more focus on mind, body and soul.

Eoin speaks openly and frankly about the pitfalls of playing a role as a barber, pressuring yourself to always be your online persona and placing unrealistic expectations on yourself. He holds up a mirror to barbers and puts the barbering profession into perspective.

Well-rounded education

Why did Eoin decide to go into coaching and mentoring?

Eoin says: “I’ve been educating in the industry since 2017.

My focus with the Accelerated Mentorship Programme is to empower business owners. My mum owned a salon her whole life and I’ve worked in different parts of the barbering industry, so I know where they’re coming from. I can identify with putting on handcuffs and carrying their own ball when they don’t necessarily have to. So my aim is to help them carve out a path of freedom by providing oversight, sharing experiences and exploring

different business models.

It’s all about challenging their thoughts and having a look into their businesses to see how we can optimise it and make it more effective.”

Eoin says the fact that he has never owned nor intends to own a barbershop works in his favour: “Some people think it’s interesting that I’ve never owned a barbershop. But I’ve worked deeply inside barbershops and have learned the ins and outs. And I think because I’m not emotionally attached to it helps me to be a better coach because I don’t have a bias when giving options

to people. My experience in the education space is invaluable. I get to see people when they’re at their rawest, when they’re learning, when they’re trying to push themselves to new levels.

I’ve just seen a lot of people in the barbering industry, particularly in Australia, who are stuck and needed some help, but there wasn’t much available. So I thought: If I don’t do it, who else will? So my business partner Leigh Winsor and I redid our whole business model and everything we do is now from a very holistic standpoint. We put the humans first and the hair second. It’s been a fun journey so far."

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I help them carve out a path of freedom

Life is not a stage

Not being your authentic self is a big mental health issue in the barbering business. Eoin says he sees this a lot: “One thing I’ve seen over the years and have actually experienced myself is barbers not being themselves. If we’re not being true to ourselves or expressing our authentic selves, we’re setting ourselves up for a trap. Because there’s going to be a day when you’re not feeling 100% and you can’t give the client the

hazard that faces barbers and hairdressers. The fact that you think you have to be something else for their clients rather than just being yourself is setting yourself up for a fall.”

Craft out time for yourself

Working as a barber takes up a lot of time and energy. This strain can build up and potentially lead to exhaustion and burnout. Eoin draws a comparison between professional athletes and professional barbers: “As

time actually being spent on competing. It’s the other way around in our business. So it’s no wonder that I see people getting burnt out and losing their love for the industry, losing their passion. That’s another reason why I wanted to get into coaching and mentoring. My aim is to let people see a better way for themselves, whatever that looks like for each individual.”

Be yourself

same experience as the time before because maybe you’ve got a different energy level or there’s something going on in your life. How do I know this? Because I was once there too.” He continues: “You know I was skimming through a book by another salon specialist. I got to one chapter that basically said: ‘As a hairstylist, you’re an actor and you must act at all times.’ That’s when I put the book aside. I think that misconception is in itself the biggest mental health

barbers, we’re essentially a professional sporting athlete in business. You’re competing five, six days a week, twelve hours a day. But the big difference between us and the sporting athletes is the fact that we barely put any time into rest and recovery and hardly any time and energy into training. This is in contrast to a sporting athlete’s life that is broken up into chunks, with most of their time spent on training and rest and recovery and very little

Does barbers’ pursuit of fame and a huge social media following potentially lead to mental health issues? “Yes, it can lead to burnout and an identity crisis. That’s what happens when we give all our energy to the façade and to other people. There’s no time spent on self or looking inward – it’s all outward projection and seeking.”

Eoin also notes the danger of trying to be your online persona in real life. “A lot of the people I see at various events are only there because they want to be seen and liked. They’re chasing an infinite number.

But when will it be enough?

In this endless pursuit, they’re creating unsustainable pathways for themselves. This is because now every day they have to show up as this person, no matter

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We put humans first and hair second

That is the biggest health hazard that faces barbers

how they’re feeling. They get attached to that identity that isn’t them. It’s just a very, very dangerous way to go about life.”

Keeping your balance

Finding the right life-work balance can be a challenge in the barbering industry. When work becomes all-consuming it can have a detrimental effect on physical and mental health. Eoin says: “I feel like a lot of barbers are kind of prisoners to their science in the nicest way possible. They turn into people pleasers and don’t want to say no. So they end up working ridiculous hours and never get any time to rest and recover and live their lives. Their whole life becomes barbering. So when they stop, they don’t know what to do. That’s when

mental health issues creep in.”

Eoin does say that he sees growing awareness of the importance of achieving a healthy life-work balance.

“There is a cohort of barbers who are becoming more aware of the importance of maintaining their physical and mental health. They’re starting to look after themselves now before everything crumbles further down the line. The main reason why many barbers attend my course is that they can’t get time off work. The pain of staying the same has become too great and they want to make a change, find a different way. That’s the first step in moving towards a sustainable life-work balance.” He says it is crucially important to focus on health and wellbeing:

“Our health isn’t a given. It’s not

just something that’s going to be around forever. We can’t take it for granted. It’s more important than doing 50 or 60 haircuts a week.”

It's also important to keep things in perspective, Eoin says. “When you consider that over 60% of the world’s population doesn’t have a proper working toilet, it puts everything in perspective. It’s important to realise that what we’re doing is kind of ridiculous in the grand scheme of things. So there’s no need to be stressed. We’re just having fun and we’re doing a bit of hair.”

Not psychologists

It’s a well-known fact that people tend to open up in a barber’s chair in ways they don’t

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in other spaces. This has led to calls for barbers to leverage this conversation to bring up topics including prostate cancer, mental health and addiction. While well-intentioned, this can place unrealistic expectations on barbers and lead to potentially dangerous situations.

Eoin explains: “Mental health and opening up as a barber is a trend we’ve seen over the last four or five years. In my view, it’s been pushed on the industry a bit. At the end of the day, we’re not psychologists. If we poke and prod and ask too many questions, we could be opening up Pandora’s box.

What happens if someone has an episode, what do you do then?”

He continues: “It’s simply not barbers’ responsibility. It’s not what we signed up to do. I mean you don’t go to a dentist and do that. It’s just not our responsibility to take on people’s stuff and ask those questions. I see a lot of other businesses and charities wanting to communicate to men through barbering. But it’s being pushed onto barbers because it’s an easy route for people to communicate to men, but it’s not okay. I also think it could be turning off a lot of young people considering entering

the barbering industry. There’s a huge scream out for young people to join the industry here in Australia and I’m sure it’s the same worldwide. But the pressure to double as a therapist could turn off kids. They think: ‘I don’t want to talk to people about that stuff all day.’ And they shouldn’t have to. I think a lot of barbers who are promoting this are doing it from a self-interest perspective. It’s like they want to be seen as philanthropists and love the praise that gets from the wider audience. And it’s not right – we can’t play with people’s mental health like that.”

ONE MONTH FREE ONE ZERO ONE ONLINE EDUCATION!

Eoin offers you, our BarberSociety readers, one month FREE on ‘The Hair Index’, the online education platform by One Zero One Education. 50+ Lessons in an easy to access on-demand library. Full of in-depth tutorials for ALL hair types & styles: from classic to show-stopping awardwinning work, essential techniques, downloads & BONUS content.

Take your chance to take your skillset to new heights!

Scan the QR-code:

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It’s not what we signed up to do

THE BARBER'S GUIDE TO MENTAL WELLNESS: NAVIGATING THE ‘I'M OKAY’ TRAP

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER @theprofile.guy
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Photo: © Jose Donatz fotografie

There's a phrase I've often caught myself saying – ‘I'm okay.’ As a barber, my days are filled with lively chitchat, friendly banter, and heart-to-heart conversations. But when it comes to opening up about my own mental health, those two words seem to roll off my tongue a bit too quickly.

It's an odd paradox. Here I am, stationed at my barber's chair, acting as a makeshift therapist for many, offering a listening ear to everyone who needs it. Yet, when the tables are turned, admitting I'm not ‘okay’ becomes a challenge. And trust me, I'm not alone in this. It's a trap many of

1. Practice Self-Care: Our profession demands that we constantly give. But remember to take a little for yourself. Whether it's reading, gaming, or a serene walk, find your haven.

2. Stay Active: Physical activity is an instant mood lifter. So, next time you feel down, how about a spontaneous dance session or a quick jog?

3. Get Enough Sleep: Rest is not a luxury; it's a necessity. Prioritise those 7-8 hours of sleep. Your body, brain, and clients will appreciate it.

4. Eat Healthily: The age-old saying, ‘You are what you eat,’ couldn't be more accurate. Boost your mood and energy by opting for nutritious meals.

5. Connect with Others: We're social beings. Spend quality time with loved ones or join groups with shared interests. It’s therapeutic.

us fall into, especially in today's fast-paced, ‘always fine’ world.

For those unfamiliar, Tom Chapman (UK) is not just another name in the barbering industry. As the founder of The Lions Barber Collective, Tom has made it his mission to turn the

6. Practice Mindfulness: The world can be overwhelming. Find solace in moments of meditation, deep breathing, or yoga. It's a game-changer.

7. Set Goals: Direction brings motivation. Whether it's mastering a new haircut technique or personal endeavours, set goals and relish each achievement.

8. Manage Stress: Stress is inevitable, but suffering is optional. Find what helps you unwind and resort to it when things get tough.

9. Seek help when needed: Don't be afraid to reach out for help if you're struggling. Talk to a trusted friend or family member, or seek professional help from a therapist or counsellor.

10. Practice Gratitude: Focusing on the good things in your life can help improve your mood and overall well-being. Take time each day to reflect on what you're grateful for.

barber chair into a safe space for conversations about mental health. As a good friend, I recently sat down with Tom to discuss this very dilemma and seek guidance on how barbers like me can ensure our mental well-being. After all, to offer the best to our clients, we first need to be at our best.

In the end, being a barber is not just about the cuts and trims. It's about human connections, stories, and shared experiences. But just as we are there for our clients, we must be there for ourselves. Next time you find yourself muttering, ‘I'm okay’, take a breath and ask, ‘Am I really?’ Remember, it's okay not to be okay.

To all my fellow barbers and everyone out there, let's vow to be a bit more genuine with ourselves. The first step to healing is acknowledging. Stay sharp and, more importantly, stay authentic. Till next time!

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Köp, Wetteren (BE)

“I have a lot of problems physically, with my knee and my shoulder. When you’re young, you don't really listen to your body. You’re enthusiastic, have love for the profession and you just keep going. But at some point, your body tells you it can't go on anymore. I have fortunately not collapsed mentally. But of course, there is a link between physical and mental health. For a few months, the pain in my knee has started getting in my way mentally as well. That is why I am currently on a diet and am being guided by a nutrition coach and a personal trainer who are helping me to get physically fit again which will reduce the strain on my knee. I have been doing fitness/bodybuilding for about 12 years but that makes you extremely heavy which is not good for my knee. I now have to lose weight and exercise in a different way with more cycling and swimming. This job is physically demanding, you stand a lot and often bend over. We are constantly concentrating, meanwhile also talking to customers. That demands a lot from the body. This profession is actually top-class sport. Because of the long days and the many hours you work, often with unhealthy food, I find it important to pursue a healthy lifestyle.”

Jose Navarro (57)

Barbercar, Valencia (ES)

“Standing on our feet all day can take a toll. I experience discomfort due to varicose veins in my legs. To alleviate this, I counteract it by walking as much as possible, wearing compression stockings, and using appropriate footwear. Health holds great significance for me, particularly considering my son works alongside me. This is why I ensure that we consistently have access to water and nutritious snacks in the barbershop, and that we both allocate essential intervals for rest to stay energized. Additionally, we make routine visits to the chiropodist and chiropractor to preempt any potential injuries associated with our profession. To maintain our mental health, I always play music in the barbershop, creating a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere. For me, cooking traditional paella is a great way to unwind from work and connect with my other passion.”

Rhiannah Balcombe (28)

Underfound, Altrincham (UK)

“My work-life balance is all over the place. But I do try to get it right. Our shop is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. I use those days to disconnect and get stuff done like bookkeeping. It’s hard to get the balance, especially when you’re selfemployed because if you don’t cut hair, you don’t get paid. But it’s important to set boundaries and say: ‘This is my time when I need to decompress from the day.”

BARBERS ON HEALTH

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“This profession is actually top-class sport”
“I always play music in the barbershop”
“I need time to decompress from the day“

FIT FOR WORK

THIJMEN GROEN, TRAINING MANAGER TECHNOGYM

In the bustling world of barbers, everything revolves around creativity, precision, and customer satisfaction. To tackle these demanding tasks with energy and agility, a well-thought-out physical training plan is essential. An effective example of such a training plan to get and stay in top shape is the schedule opposite.

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LIFESTYLE

Week 1-3

Cardiovascular Foundation Training

Start by building a strong foundation of endurance. Focus on cardiovascular activities like walking, jogging, cycling, or swimming for the first three weeks. This will improve your overall fitness and boost your energy levels to endure long days on your feet at the barbershop.

Week 4-6

Strength Training for Proper Posture

Good posture is crucial for barbers, as you often stand for extended periods and work with raised arms. Concentrate on strength training to strengthen your legs, back, shoulders, and core. Exercises like lunges, reverse flyes, front raises, and planking are great for supporting your posture. You don't need to become a bodybuilder, but you do need muscles with endurance, so focus on low sets with high repetitions.

Week 7-8

Flexibility and Mobility

Flexibility is essential for performing various cutting and styling techniques. Spend these weeks on stretching and exercises to increase your flexibility and

mobility. Yoga and Pilates are excellent choices to lengthen your muscles and prevent injuries. Focus on the arms, shoulders, neck, and wrists.

Week 9-10

Core Strength and Stability

A strong core is the foundation for all your movements as a barber. Work on your core with exercises like side planks, sit-ups, Russian twists, and leg raises. Don't forget the scissors, of course! A solid core is not only important for good posture but also helps reduce back pain.

Week 11-12

Recovery and Sustainability

Rest and recovery are just as important as training itself. Spend these weeks learning effective recovery techniques like foam rolling, stretching, and active rest. This will help reduce muscle soreness and prevent injuries.

Ongoing: Healthy Habits and Hydration

In addition to physical training, maintaining a healthy lifestyle is crucial. Ensure adequate hydration throughout the day and eat balanced meals to maintain your energy levels. Getting enough sleep also contributes to your overall well-being and performance.

LET THE TECHNOGYM APP ASSIST YOU

This fitness training plan will help you stay in optimal condition and face the challenges of the barber profession. If you need a more specific schedule or more guidance, perhaps the Technogym App is for you. With tailored workouts, instructional videos, meditations, and nutritional information, this app provides support and inspiration. The Technogym coach offers personalized guidance and adjusts to your fitness level. Scan the QR code and download the Technogym App today for professional success and well-being. Shape not only hair but also yourself.

Scan the QR code:

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Wellness Ball

For a strong core, highly effective for training the back.

Jump Rope

For building endurance. The bearings in the ball at the end of each handle provide a more efficient rotation of the rope during the workout.

Kettlebells

Ideal for training the entire body. Strength, endurance, stability, coordination.

Bench

If you want to diversify your training with bodyweight exercises and accessories, the Technogym Bench is the all-in-one functional training solution for resistance, strength, and core exercises. When used in combination with the Technogym App, you have access to a wide selection of on-demand video workouts.

LIFESTYLE 46

Elliptical

For a total body workout with no impact on the joints, the Technogym Elliptical is the ideal solution. It comes with an extensive library of training programs and on-demand video workouts.

Cycle

Technogym Cycle is the exercise bike that combines functionality, ease of use, and design.

Myrun

For running enthusiasts, Myrun is the compact and quiet treadmill for home use. Connect your tablet and access a wide range of on-demand specific running and walking workouts.

LIFESTYLE 47
More information www.technogym.com

DAPPER DAN BODY WASH GREEN

The Dapper Dan Body Wash GREEN is a mild shower gel and shampoo with extra cooling menthol. It feels incredibly pleasant and smooth on skin and cleans effectively and gently from the first application. It is enriched with sugar surfactants, glycerin and vitamin E. No animal testing, preservatives, parabens, silicones, microplastics or palm oil. With the popular Dapper Dan GREEN fragrance, known from the Dapper Dan GREEN After Shave and the Dapper Dan GREEN Hair Tonic.

More information

www.pomadeshop.com

BETTER BE BOLD BALD CREAM

Bald Cream is a 100% natural care & anti-shine cream for the bald head. The scalp is exposed to cold and sun after shaving and therefore needs extra care. The cream contains, among other things, magnolia extract, which soothes the skin, prevents skin irritation and has an anti-inflammatory effect.

More information

www.betterbebold.eu

GROOMING 48

UPPERCUT DELUXE SHAVE RANGE

The Uppercut Deluxe Shave Range is an assembly of holistically designed products to cater for all skin types and shave routines. Featuring Exfoliating Cleanser, Clear Shave Gel, Deluxe Shave Cream, Hydrating Moisturiser and Aftershave Cologne the new shave range is packed full of soothing, hydrating ingredients and fragranced to perfection.

More information

www.uppercutdeluxe.com

MURDOCK LONDON NAPIER COLOGNE

Murdock London Introduces Napier Cologne, a scent that captures the spirit, style and elegance of the early 1900’s racing scene.

An uplifting mix of cypress, fig, dried fruits, and patchouli add a warm fruity touch, whilst base notes of oakmoss and amber, ground the fragrance with a warm and earthy finish.

More information

www.murdocklondon.com

GROOMING 49

ANDIS GTX-EXO TRIMMER

Elevate your technique and execute tighter details and design work with the cordless GTX-EXO trimmer by Andis. Its intuitive shape gives crystal clear visibility as you outline, shave and fade while better-than-ever Gold coated, corrosion-resistant GTX-Z blades are retooled to cut closer than ever and last longer; they can also be zero-gapped.

The ultra-quiet powerful rotary motor ensures constant speed technology for consistent cutting performance at 7,200spm through all hair types. Powered by a Lithium-Ion battery that delivers over 100 minutes of runtime on a single charge the GTX-EXO can also be used corded, ensuring no downtime behind the chair.

Includes:

• Premium Charging Stand

• Charging Adaptor

• 4 Attachment Combs - 1/16" (1.5mm), 1/8", (3mm), 1/4" (6mm) & 3/8" (10mm)

• Blade Guard

• Blade Oil

IN SHOP 50
More information www.andis.com

WHY YOUR MENTAL HEALTH IS IMPORTANT

Mental health of the team as well as clients is a priority at Murdock London. With three salons in Covent Garden, Soho and Shoreditch (UK) all team members are Mental Health First Aid trained.

In fact, the team collaborated with the ‘National Health Service’ (NHS) for their ‘London, you good?’ campaign aimed at 18–25-year-old Londoners offering tips to take away. Here Murdock London barbers talk

about why looking after your mental health is important.

More information

@murdocklondon

www.murdocklondon.com

Mental health is the cornerstone of your overall fitness and wellbeing. If you are struggling, speaking to someone and finding support is the first – and hardest – step you can take. Being honest with yourself and accepting you’re in need of help shows great strength of character. Luckily, we’re in an age where talking about your mental health is encouraged and there are a lot of resources out there. Your mental health should always be your top priority.

3. Whether you’re a barber, banker, barista or baker, your mental health is just as important as your physical health. If you break your arm you’d go to A&E, your mental health is the same; if you’re feeling broken you should seek help.

4. If you are struggling with mental health but feel like you can’t, or don’t want to talk, it will impact you negatively and can cause you to struggle for days, weeks even months. Speaking to someone that’s mental health

first aid trained is so important in taking steps to being the best version of yourself.

5. Good mental health ensures you have a positive mindset for all the challenges life throws your way. It’s normal not to feel great all the time; speaking openly is the first step to getting back to your best. It may also help others around you who are suffering silently, build the confidence to speak out too.

BACKGROUND
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COLUMN DENNIS VAN LIEROP

FOR THE 65% OF STRESSED

In the symphonic world of barbershops where clippers sing and creativity is boundless, tales of unseen struggles frequently lurk in the shadows. As an esteemed industry expert, business coach, and fellow traveler on this journey, I offer an invitation—to venture beyond the cutting chair and embrace an issue as pivotal as any tool or technique: mental health and work-life equilibrium.

While traversing global landscapes, I faced a startling epiphany in Las Vegas. I found myself disoriented, unable to even identify my country. As memories surged back, an unsettling realization emerged: the chasm between my professional dedication and personal well-being had grown perilously wide. It underscored an inescapable truth: mental hygiene isn't optional—it's essential.

From my privileged position at HALO Academy, I've observed the transformative prowess

of prioritizing mental wellbeing. Yet, my trajectory—likely echoing many of yours—initially radiated excitement, only for it to eventually be dimmed by the rigors of relentless pursuit.

The Heartbeat of Barbering

Beyond the shears and chairs, barbershops serve as emotional tapestries, weaving stories and fostering connections. Our demanding schedules, however, often threaten these ties. As industry vanguards, it's our prerogative to champion empathy, highlight the indispensability of selfcare, and illuminate pathways toward bolstered relationships and tenacious teams.

Despite our mastery, vulnerabilities persist. We, as barbershop custodians, must take up the mantle, creating spaces where mental well-being isn't a whisper but a proud proclamation. The ripples of such conversations promise transformative impact beyond just our establishments.

With each passing day, our industry evolves, as does its constituents. Today's younger generations wear their hearts on their sleeves, making it imperative for us to cultivate environments that are not just inclusive, but also nurturing. By doing so, we not only bridge generational divides but also future-proof our beloved profession.

In our high-octane lives, selfcare often takes a backseat. Fortunately, the digital era offers a beacon. With resources like Headspace, Calm, and BetterHelp, we have a treasure trove at our fingertips—tools that promise not mere support, but holistic transformation.

Leveraging Digital Aides for Holistic Health

The digital revolution equips us with tools to navigate mental challenges. Whether seeking solace through Calm, handling stress with Thrive, or understanding emotions via Moodpath, the trail to holistic health is

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CHAMPIONING MENTAL WELL-BEING IN THE BARBERING LANDSCAPE @halo_edutainment
BARBERS:

well-marked. The task at hand? Merely taking the first step.

Recollect the airplane safety directives? ‘First, ensure your safety, then assist others.’ This philosophy holds profound relevance for us. Embedding self-care, catalyzing conversations, and leading via values and empathy allows us to sculpt a future centered on holistic wellness.

Service is our profession's cornerstone, but occasionally it leads us astray. Through shared narratives, we unearth novel insights, enabling collective growth. Engage. Share. Reflect. A collective chorus always resounds louder than a solitary voice. Embark with me on this pivotal expedition. Together, let's envision and enact a barbering world that prizes not just artistry but the holistic wellness of every artisan. Let's craft an era of empowerment, cohesion, and unparalleled barbering excellence.

Actionable Checklist for Business Owners and solopreneurs:

• Open Dialogue: Initiate regular team discussions focusing on mental well-being.

• Flexible Schedules: Consider offering flexible hours to reduce burnout and accommodate personal needs.

• Mental Health Days: Encourage taking days off purely for mental rejuvenation.

• Resources & Training: Provide access to mental health resources and potentially even workshops.

• Safe Environment: Ensure your establishment is a stigma-free zone, where discussions on mental health are welcomed.

• Engage in Team Activities: Organize team-building activities that focus on relaxation and bonding.

• Digital Aids: Offer subscriptions to mental well-being apps like Calm or Headspace.

• Feedback Channels: Create anonymous channels for staff to communicate concerns or suggestions.

• Personal Development: Encourage courses or training that focus on personal growth and emotional intelligence.

• Seek External Support: Collaborate with local mental health professionals for periodic check-ins or sessions.

Taking even a few of these steps can significantly influence the well-being of everyone under your establishment's roof. Prioritizing mental health isn't just an act of compassion—it's a strategic decision for long-term success.

Sincerely yours in sustainable growth, Dennis

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54

BARBERS & THE CITY

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting the beautiful city of Lugano, Switzerland. Check out Lugano’s amazing barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting their city.

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Davide Barbiere

Corso Elvezia 3

6900 Lugano

Switzerland

+41 91 923 41 29

@davidebarbiere

www.davidebarbiere.com

After more than ten years of experience in other salons, Davide took over the historic shop in the center of Lugano in 2002. Known for the youthful, cheerful, and friendly atmosphere that greets visitors upon entering this barber shop, the barbers are appreciated by all for its professionalism and the quality of their work. While always staying updated with the latest trends, this shop preserves the old ways, techniques, and traditions of 'how it was done

BARBERS & THE CITY

many years ago.' They offer classic cuts with combs and scissors, as well as modern cuts with precise details and freehand designs. Additionally, they provide beard shaving with brush soaping and a freehand razor. Davide says, “Whether you're a child, a young person, a businessman, or someone seeking a modern or more classic look, we are the 'go-to place' for anyone who wants to enhance their appearance while enjoying a moment in a friendly and familiar atmosphere. We look forward to welcoming you!”

OUR HOTSPOTS

Porto Bello!

Circolo Velico Lugano

Via Foce 11

6900 Lugano

+41 91 972 88 88

https://

porto-bello-lugano.business.site

One of my favorite places, especially in the summer, whether it's for an aperitif after work or for dinner with friends. The restaurant is located next to the small harbor in Lugano, close to the city park and the lake. It's an area that comes alive pleasantly in summer with tourists and locals seeking relaxation, recreation, and breathtaking views to capture a beautiful sunset with

56

the city in the background. The atmosphere is youthful, and the staff is friendly, attentive, and dynamic. The food is excellent and served well. I absolutely recommend it!

Pesce Pazzo

Quartiere Maghetti

6900 Lugano

+41 91 921 26 03

@pesce_pazzo_lugano

www.pescepazzolugano.ch

When I want to enjoy seafood while staying in the city center, I have no doubts - Pesce Pazzo restaurant is a guarantee. It's situated in the heart of the Quartiere Maghetti, and whether it's summer or winter, you can dine in the small square, beautifully arranged in

a simple yet elegant manner. The atmosphere is welcoming, and the staff is always friendly and attentive. What sets this restaurant apart is that, in addition to being an excellent seafood restaurant, it also operates as a fishmonger, specializing in the sale of various fish products. I highly recommend it to anyone who loves seafood cuisine!

WineBar

Quartiere maghetti 10

6900 Lugano +41 91 921 01 86

@winebar_vineriaticinese

www.winebarlugano.ch

In my opinion, the best bar in Lugano to have a drink or sip a glass of good wine!

Spirito Libero

Crocicchio Cortogna 2

6900 Lugano

+41 91 922 67 00

@spiritoliberolugano

www.spiritolibero.ch

This isn't exclusively a men's clothing shop, but I highly recommend it for its unique and nice offerings. Tucked away in a small corner in the city center, you'll discover high-quality clothing items with a youthful and distinctive style, including t-shirts with funny prints, for instance. It's a small concept store where you can explore new brands and discover fun items for unique gift ideas. I wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone seeking something original!"

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Photography © Aurora Lamberti, @art.howrora

Old Skull Barbershop

Piazza Molino Nuovo 1

6900 Lugano

Switzerland

+41 76 830 64 61

@oldskullugano

www.oldskullbarbershop.ch

Old Skull Barber Shop was established in 2018 by Christian Mollo. It all started with the ambition to create a barber shop that combines a passion for beard and hair grooming with a deep love for hip-hop culture and the underground scene. After a few years, Alex Novati joined the project, introducing a more refined and elegant touch that seamlessly blends with the shop's unique style.

OUR HOTSPOTS

Amarea

Riva Paradiso 26

6900 Paradiso

+41 779139970

@amarea.lugano

www.amarea.ch

We love Amarea, a restaurant in Lugano Paradiso, where you can savor excellent fresh seafood while admiring the view of Lake Lugano

La Fermata

Viale Carlo Cattaneo 21

6900 Lugano

+41 91 225 79 77

@lafermatalugano

Another highly appreciated restaurant is La Fermata. Their gourmet hamburger is simply the best we've ever tasted, and it's a fantastic place to spend the evening after dinner as well.

Bar Kulma

Via Giacomo e Filippo Ciani 11

6900 Lugano

+41 91 971 46 22

@barkulma

Our go-to bar in Lugano is undoubtedly Kulma. It's the perfect spot for aperitifs and to savor the best gin tonic. Additionally, you can enjoy a

variety of concerts featuring different music genres.

Bar Pinard

Piazza Molino Nuovo 5

6900 Lugano

+41 91 921 04 59

@barpinard

www.barpinard.ch

When it comes to enjoying excellent wine, there's no doubt that Bar Pinard is the place to be.

Source Lugano

Via Guglielmo Marconi 2

6900 Lugano

+41 79 138 54 20

@source.lu

www.sourcelugano.ch

Hands down, the best men’s clothing store is Source Lugano! We love it because it stands out for the best quality, carefully selected items, and impeccable taste in all the clothing pieces you can find there. Visit to witness the magic.

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BARBERS & THE CITY
59

INTERVIEW WITH RHIANNAH BALCOMBE

60 BARBER LADY @rhiannahrose, @theunderfound

FINDING CREATIVE FUSION WITH UNDERFOUND

Rhiannah Balcombe (28) puts her creative passion to work in barbering, acting and retailing. She isn’t a newcomer to the barbering industry, having been interested in barbering since age five and gaining fifteen years’ experience in the business. After catching the attention of a talent scout, she also taps into her creativity as an actor and fashion model. Having appeared in a number of productions such as the film 'Men in Black: International' and the TV series ' Devs', Rhiannah goes on to write, direct and star in the Amazon Prime Video series 'Heavy Pencil' in 2021.

In 2022, Rhiannah seizes the opportunity to bring together her creative passions together under one roof. Her business – Underfound – in Altrincham, Greater Manchester (UK) showcases a unique blend of male grooming, independent fashion and art. The concept is a hit and Rhiannah is now planning on rolling it out nationally and internationally.

Rhiannah knows from experience that working in creative professions such as barbering and acting can pose mental health challenges. She says it is important to decompress, talk about your feelings and set boundaries for a healthy work-life balance. In the run-up to the first anniversary of Underfound, we speak with Rhiannah about business, barbering and following your own path.

Early start

To say Rhiannah got off to an early start in barbering is an understatement. She became interested in the craft when she was just five years old. Rhiannah explains: “I’ve known since age five I wanted to cut hair. My mum has VHS tapes of me pretending to cut my granddad’s hair. But she never thought I’d

actually go into the career.” Little did Rhiannah’s mum know it was the first step towards going into the barbering business. “I started as a Saturday girl when I was 13 and then worked my way up. I completed my hairdressing qualifications, but soon realised that I wanted to go into male grooming,” she recalls.

What attracted her most to barbering is the creative and hands-on nature of the work.

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You must be a people person

“I’ve got severe Dyslexia and knew from a young age that I was going to do something creative. If you have Dyslexia, you hyper focus on things you really enjoy. And barbering gives me an outlet for that creativity. When I started out, I thought: ‘I can do all this stuff with hair –dye it, curl it, you name it – and make people feel amazing.’ So it was the creativity that attracted me to barbering.”

Acting success

Alongside her work as a barber, Rhiannah has a successful acting and modelling career. How did that happen?

She explains: “I got scouted to do modelling and film work, so I fell into it. It’s been amazing. I’ve been in films and series working with FX,

Warner Brothers, ITV and others. To top it off, my partner and I produced the documentary miniseries Heavy Pencil for Amazon Prime. The series documents the journey of seven friends’ triumphs and challenges whilst working in the creative industry.”

Are there any similarities between barbering and acting? “100%. One of the main similarities is that both barbering and acting involve a lot of waiting around – whether it’s for your next walk-in or appointment at the barbershop or your next scene on the set. Another big similarity is that in both professions you must be a people person. With barbering you must continually adjust your tone and the way

you come across because every client is different. And it’s the same with acting –every scene and character is different. So the two professions have a lot in common.”

Finding Underfound Rhiannah opened Underfound just under a year ago. It’s a unique concept that brings together all her passions. So what’s the story behind Underfound? “I’d been cutting hair for 15 years, along with my acting and modelling. What I found was that there was a real niche for bringing everything together. Clients came in on the weekend because they were getting ready to go out. We’d talk about TV, film music and artwork that they’re into. Chat about what

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We’re a one stop shop

brands they’re following. Then I had a lightbulb moment: ‘We talk about all these things, so why don’t we bring it all together in one package?’.”

This set the wheels in motion, with Rhiannah beginning to think about how to fill this gap in the market. It wasn’t long before she stumbled onto the idea of Underfound. “We’re a one stop shop. So you can come in for a haircut but also find a new pair of jeans, listen to a band or check out some cool art. We introduce people to new brands and artists that they might otherwise not get a chance to see.”

Underfound, as a unique concept, has caught on from day one. “It’s really working. I have clients who come in for a haircut and then ask to see what’s new in the store. And where else can come in on a Saturday for a haircut and listen to a band play live?” Rhiannah says keeping Underfound accessible, laidback and inviting is key. “Everyone is welcome here. Our haircut prices are the same as everywhere else locally and our fashion collections feature different price classes depending on the brand. So there’s

something here for everyone. It’s a cool environment and accessible for everyone.”

Minding the shop

When asked whether she thinks barbers face particular mental health challenges, she says: “During my years working in the industry, I’ve seen that especially self-employed barbers can experience mental health issues due to the uncertainty and long hours. The strain of making sure your clients are happy every day can take its toll.”

Having watched the industry change so much in recent years, Rhiannah sees the negative effect social media can have on barbers and their mental health. It’s important not to be online 24/7. She is one of a growing group within the barbering community who recognises the dangers of social media: low self-esteem, unrealistic expectations and delusions of grandeur. “It misrepresents many aspects of our work. You see all these amazing haircuts from people who’ve either been doing it for years or have been in a studio for three hours making sure everything is perfect. It’s an unrealistic picture of what

goes on in a shop where you’re on your feet for twelve hours and are lucky to get a lunch break. Social media glorifies the work, and this is deceptive for many younger people coming into the industry.”

Finding the future

Where does Rhiannah envision Underfound five years from now? “Our vision for Underfound is to grow our base locally and internationally. I foresee having multiple shops, with maybe one in London and one or two internationally. Our mission is to be known as a unique enterprise featuring highly trained barbers, great service, amazing live music and up-and-coming designers. I want us to be a real advocate for creativity.”

Her advice to barbers worldwide? “You’re the only person holding yourself back. If you believe in yourself, have the drive and passion and are willing to put in a lot of hard work, nothing will stop you. Our slogan is: Follow your own path and let people talk.”

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More information www.theunderfound.com
You’re the only person holding yourself back.

GENERATIONAL LEGACY AND PASSION

Growing up in an environment steeped in the world of barbershops, Jose Navarro's destiny seemed preordained. With a father and cousin who were both barbers, the allure of the trade was everpresent. This familial influence ignited Jose's passion for the craft, eventually leading him down the path of becoming a seasoned barber himself.

At a tender age, Jose's exposure to the barbershop ambiance fueled his curiosity. His father, actively engaged in the profession, encouraged him to learn the art of hairdressing. His motivation bore fruit, and Jose embarked on a journey that would shape his life.

After completing his studies, Jose took his first steps into the world of hairdressing. He began working in various salons, where he eventually crossed paths with his future wife.

The culmination of these experiences laid the groundwork for his first venture—a hairdressing salon established in collaboration with his wife in 1990.

Continuing the Family Legacy

In 2000, a new chapter unfolded as Jose's father retired from his barbershop. Seizing the opportunity, Jose and his wife assumed the reins of the establishment, carrying forward a familial tradition. However, this was only the beginning of their journey. In 2018, Jose opened his very own barbershop, named ‘Barbercar,’ situated in the heart of Valencia, Spain. Jose: “The name ‘Barbercar’ combines my passion for barbershops and my love for cars. I wanted to create something unique and attentiongrabbing. The idea was to offer a distinct experience, something that would capture

64 ALL-IN THE FAMILY
Jose Navarro (57), owner of Barbercar barbershop in Valencia, Spain, shares his family's journey through the world of barbering, spanning three generations.
65 @barbercar_
Jose junior (l), father and grandfather (m), Jose (r)

people's attention as they pass by the barbershop.”

A Glimpse into the Daily Grind

At Barbercar, the spirit of family remains palpable. Jose, now working alongside his son, Jose Jr. (30), finds solace in the continuity of the generational tradition. Interestingly, even Jose’s father, at the age of 93, occasionally graces the establishment, wielding his shears for the delight of his friends. Jose: “Working with family brings a sense of trust and shared pride in each other's growth. However, it's also a daily challenge since our success depends entirely on our own efforts. But the comfort of working as a family is truly rewarding.”

Asking what he does differently from his father and son he says: “I've adopted a more contemporary approach to the business, incorporating new techniques and embracing modern technologies such as online bookings. As for my son, he's learned from various barbers across different shops, both in Spain and abroad. He's always eager to explore new techniques and broaden his experience. He even wants to try the opportunity to learn in the Netherlands.”

Navigating Challenges, Embracing Change

The journey through three generations of barbering has witnessed its fair share of challenges and transformations. The evolution of hairstyles and

66

techniques reflects the everchanging landscape of the profession. Jose emphasizes the need to adapt to the latest trends while staying true to the core principles of the craft.

A Legacy and a Vision for the Future

As Jose peers into the future, he envisions the possibility of a fourth generation carrying forth the family's barbering tradition. While the specifics remain uncertain, he holds onto the hope that the legacy he, his father, his wife and his son have cultivated will continue to thrive. Jose advice to aspiring barbers is one of patience and passion. He says: “I want to emphasize that the profession of a barber is an art that deserves admiration and enthusiasm. Learning this craft takes time and dedication, and we shouldn't rush the process. We can learn from each other's techniques, and the joy of discovering new methods is truly remarkable. Remember, the learning never stops— even after years in the field, I continue to innovate and improve by observing others' work.”

Jose Navarro's journey from childhood fascination to becoming a skilled barber is a testament to the power of familial influence and passion. Through the ebb and flow of trends and techniques, one constant remains—the heart and soul of the barbershop, where generations connect, learn, and craft a lasting legacy.

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ABOUT CHAIR RENTAL AND FRANCHISE

An increasing number of barbershops are turning to chair rental, indicating the growing rise of self-employed professionals (freelancers). Chair rental offers barbers more freedom, such as setting their own working hours and taking vacations when it suits them. For freelancers who already work from home, renting a chair can provide a sense of camaraderie as they become part of a team again, which also challenges them technically. Moreover, chair rental is generally more lucrative than being an employee, but only if the barber has already proven himself and has managed to attract enough clients. However, there are also downsides associated with chair rental for the renter. The renter bears risks, such as maintaining proper records and fulfilling tax obligations. After all, the tax authorities consider a chair renter to be a self-employed entrepreneur with their own revenue, VAT, and income tax. Therefore, it's essential to build up a reserve for holidays or illness, as more money is often spent than is actually available. Furthermore, the renter must be able to retain customers.

For the landlord, collaborating with other motivated entrepreneurs can be inspiring. Additionally, the landlord faces no financial risk in case of the renter's illness, and there are fewer obligations compared to hiring employees. However, chair rental entails more than one might expect as an entrepreneur. It's crucial to clearly define agreements to avoid misunderstandings, such as what is included in the rent and agreements regarding procurement, insurance, product sales, vacations, pricing, opening hours, the distribution of new clients, salon regulations, training, non-competition clauses, marketing, etc. However, it's important to ensure that the agreement does not imply an employment relationship, as the tax authorities closely monitor this. The chair renter and the landlord must act as two separate entrepreneurs working behind the same door. We spoke with two entrepreneurs, Cor Bouw and Serge Pappers, who approach chair rental in a different way.

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BACKGROUND

At the age of twentythree, Cor started his first barbershop in Harderwijk as an entrepreneur, 'Haarmode 2000', followed by 'Dutch Hair' in Nunspeet and in 2019 barbershop 'De Praatkamer' by Dutch Barbers'. He has also had a national and international career giving hair shows and training to barbers around the world. Apart from his barbershop business, Cor keeps himself busy with developments within the barbershop profession as a Business Consultant.

Entrepreneurship is in Cor's blood: in 2015 he was even named Entrepreneur of the Year. He sees the ability to 'share' as his greatest strength in entrepreneurship. This has also led to his new barbershop concept. He has expanded De Praatkamer into a franchise organisation where Cor motivates and guides barbers in

Cor Bouw (53) has been a barber for almost 40 years and an entrepreneur for 30. We got in touch with him because he accompanied the second prize winner of the BarberSociety Battle, Khalid Sedo, to a barber camp in Hungary. The barber camp was one of the prizes Khalid won. Khalid works at barbershop De Praatkamer, a concept by Cor, which we were keen to learn more about.

a combined salon. I had a nice conversation with him, and it was his dream to work in a barbershop. I then decided I wanted to start a barbershop so Jan Willem could work there.”

How did this grow into a concept?

entrepreneurship. We talked to him about this.

Why did you start De Praatkamer?

“I was originally a men's hairdresser and went into women’s hairdressing later. My love for the men's trade has always been there. Skin fades, cutting, blockhead taper fades. One day I came into contact with Jan Willem, the little brother of my mother's nurse. He was doing the BBL vocational education and needed an internship for his barber training, but it had to be in

“During corona, haircuts were mostly done at home and through word of mouth I heard about a barber who worked in Harderwijk and who wanted to start his own business. I thought to myself, he could rent a chair in the new barbershop I was going to open. I started talking to him and was shocked by his low salary. He earned €1,350 for 35 hours. Because of this incident, a light bulb lit up in my mind. There are so many guys who are learning to become barbers or are already barbers and who actually want more than a lifetime of working for a boss. With all due respect,

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Owner barbershop De Praatkamer, Apeldoorn, Nunspeet, Zwolle (NL) @barbershopdepraatkamer Photography © Harold Meerveld

once they finish learning, they might earn €1,900 and maybe €2,000 but then it stops. It’s difficult to start a barbershop on a salary like that.

This gave rise to the concept to invest in a number of businesses where barbers can rent a chair and where we can let them grow into opening their own barbershop. In doing so, we work according to the principle of the former guild: you start as an apprentice, then become an associate on graduation and then progress to a master barber.”

How does that work in practice?

“I only hire the apprentices. Once they graduate, they have to rent a chair. After all, my concept is all about sharing. There’s a good reason why my motto is: 'you can only multiply if you can share'. You have to feel that you are

doing it for yourself. If you do less, you earn less. Once they rent a chair with us, they can develop further with us. Most barbers are allowed to take a nationally recognised course where they learn to give training. After gaining that diploma, they are then officially allowed to train barber school students at De Praatkamer. If they then indicate an interest in opening their own business, we will work with them to see where we can open it. Once a suitable place has been found, I fully fit out the barbershop. Of course, we have a franchise agreement, manuals, an education plan, etc. Every three months, we organise a 'Talk Day', a franchise meeting, where things like marketing and all sorts of other topics are discussed and entrepreneurial training is given. We also invite the accountant once to

come and give information on administration, tax system, etc. What I want is for them to grow.”

What is the business model?

“The business model of De Praatkamer is that the master barber leases the barbershop with the possibility of being able to buy it after 3 years.

I did that because they usually don't have the start-up budget for furnishing. But once they run for three years, they have built up equity. Also, they can then show figures at the bank which means it can be financed and the business becomes theirs. They also pay a fee; a percentage on turnover. This pays for their administration, marketing and advertising, and they receive monthly education in the form of training and guidance.

The concept of De Praatkamer, where anyone can earn a living

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My concept is all about sharing

with craftsmanship, is a dream of mine. My work is my holiday, so everything I do has to have a big fun factor in it, and that includes my employees. I love taking young people by the hand and helping them grow as entrepreneurs or in a business. What I see a lot is that young people start enthusiastically but lose track somewhere and go astray. It gives me enormous pleasure to be able to help. With De Praatkamer, I have now created a growth concept that gives people a chance and I really like that. Through this concept, I enable them to earn money.”

Are there any drawbacks to chair rental?

“I don't actually see any disadvantages to chair rental. You just have to supervise it properly and draw up clear rules.

In particular, I think ethics are very important. My main rule is: be humble and prove yourself with your hands. My keywords are: attention and commitment, quality, and craftsmanship, growing by sharing and wanting to make a difference together. So that also means that I will call someone to account if, for example, they only tag their own name on social media and not barbershop De Praatkamer. Because then you're not doing it 'together' and you have no respect for your own colleagues.

Employees in paid employment get used to getting their salaries deposited every month. So why would they want to go that extra mile? The moment chair renters sell a product in addition to the haircut, they can quickly grow their earnings. And the product is important;

after all, with styling you bring the hairstyle to life. So, because product sales directly affect their income, they will be more motivated to do their best for it.”

Do you want to say anything else?

“Should any barbers be interested in this concept, now or in the future, I would love to talk to them. Because the most important thing is that mature barbers take the young talented barbers by the hand to keep our beautiful profession alive!”

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More information
www.depraatkamer.nl

Why did you decide to make a change?

"During the pandemic, I came to the realization that I wanted to do things differently. The shop was closed, everyone was at home, but the expenses continued. When I asked my staff if they would be willing to give up some of their vacation days to help keep things afloat, I received little response. Yet, I knew they were cutting hair at home. Faced with this lack of support, I decided to change course. I was tired of the responsibilities that came with having employees on the payroll."

What is your new concept?

"I had previously gathered information about chair rental during an event by the Dutch Hairdressing Association and had conversations with fellow entrepreneurs who engaged in

Serge Pappers (53) has been working as a barber for 37 years and comes from a barbering family. His father started the business in 1968 where his barbershop 'Gozert' is now located, and his sister also runs a salon. We sat down with him to discuss his experience as a barber and his decision to switch to a different business model. He reached this pivotal decision during the COVID-19 pandemic. Serge also talks about the benefits and challenges of this new way of working.

chair rental. I discovered that they mainly operated with rental agreements, without extensive collaboration contracts. I also heard of a case where the tax authorities imposed back taxes on an entrepreneur because they considered chair rental as disguised employment. I definitely didn't want to deal with that.

In November, I connected with a barber who was working under a concept that resonated with me. I decided to adopt

this concept, and in July, the first barber under this concept started working in my shop. To facilitate this transition, I turned Gozert into a franchise, where I documented all aspects of the operating model. However, it's not a traditional franchise where Gozert barbershops are opened at other locations. Instead, it's a shop-in-shop concept, where the chair renter operates within the existing Gozert barbershop under the terms of a franchise agreement."

What does that entail?

"I take care of inventory, including products and refreshments for clients. Chair renters have access to all facilities and are aware of how I want things done. As a chair renter, the barber who

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Serge Pappers Owner of Gozert Barbershop, Vlaardingen (NL) @gozertbarbier

This is going to be the new way of working

rents a chair becomes my business partner, and we make decisions together. It's crucial that it's a win-win situation and mutually beneficial. Therefore, a competitive hourly rate is applied. I transfer the chair renter's revenue one-on-one on a monthly basis. To manage this, I use ‘Salonhub’ software, which is ideal for chair renters and keeps everything organized. Subsequently, I invoice the chair rent and any client-related expenses, such as beverages, electricity, and the purchasing costs of the products they've used. I maintain a 15% margin on the products because I'm

responsible for procurement and maintaining inventory. Of course, chair renters are responsible for their own tax obligations."

Why do you think barbers are interested in this concept?

"I firmly believe that the industry will increasingly see the rise of self-employed professionals, and this will become a new way of working. Currently, I have four employees on staff, one of whom is now operating under this new concept. He was particularly drawn to the potential income. I estimate that he can easily double his earnings, but he will have to pay taxes and insurance.

He'll see an increase of about 40% in earnings compared to what I pay him now.

I've had an empty chair for two years and expect to fill it with this concept. I believe my concept is particularly attractive to young barbers who are currently cutting hair at home or in-house. They miss having colleagues and eventually want to work more professionally. I enjoy sharing my experience with them and wish them a successful career." More information

www.gozertbarbier.nl

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Samet Ahorn (33), founder and owner of Atelier Ahorn in Essen, has been crowned the Best Hairdresser of 2023 in Germany. At the 'Top Hair' trade fair in Düsseldorf at the beginning of April, he outperformed his competitors in the Barber Battle of Barber's Experience and emerged as the victor. "In 2013, exactly a decade ago, I stood on the same stage at the Top Hair Messe. I was an assistant to renowned barbers for a show. After ten years, I am now being recognized on that very same stage as 'the Best Barber in Germany'. This success isn't coincidental; it was a project!"

THE WINNER OF THE GERMAN BARBER BATTLE

Q&A WITH SAMET AHORN

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O&A
photography © retouche -Paul Walther

Can you tell us a bit about your journey in barbering?

"I chose this profession seeking creativity. Additionally, the technical skills required intrigued me about the barber craft. Following a three-year hairdressing training in Essen, I yearned to break out of my city. I knew I possessed talent, but if talent isn't nurtured, one doesn't become a master. Hence, in the first year of my apprenticeship, I started working in Cologne. This marked the beginning with the British company Toni&Guy, cutting hair like a nerd. A round trip of 160 km daily, but I was driven by a goal. I aimed to be the best. Servicing numerous clients daily and, post-work, dedicating time to further training on models. This experience provided me a wealth of knowledge. The training was essentially an elite academy for hairdressers. In 2019, I established Atelier Ahorn."

What is your barbershop like?

"At Atelier Ahorn, I collaborate with two highly skilled barbers. It's a contemporary barbershop, distinct from many others, resembling a small art gallery. There's nothing quite like it in the city or beyond. Thanks to references on social media, customers come directly to us. They perceive the professional distinction and can relate to our style."

In your opinion, what attributes define a great barber?

"Top education and ongoing training form the bedrock of a great barber. Professionalism should shine through during every treatment. Individuality matters, as not all clients are the same, and not everyone desires a look that's ubiquitous. Demonstrate versatility beyond just hair trimming."

How do you keep abreast of the latest trends and techniques in the barbering industry?

"I actively participate in advanced barbering seminars to

continually enrich my knowledge. I find it essential as both a barber and for my clients.”

What inspired you to take part in the battle?

"In 2022, the Top Hair trade fair was held in Düsseldorf. It was there that I crossed paths with Winnie, also known as 'Fresh Prince the Barber'. He told me about the Barber Battle, where he showcased a haircut simultaneously. Winnie said, 'Think you're good? Then you need to showcase it.' He served as my inspiration to participate. If you want to get somewhere, then you have to prove yourself, also within the industry. I'm a craftsman, I love what I do."

Can you tell us about the hairstyle or haircut that you presented in the battle?

"The look I crafted for the final could be described as avantgarde. It encompassed a fusion of diverse techniques."

How did you prepare for the battle?

"To be honest, I had minimal time to prepare for the battle due to my busy schedule in the shop during the week. Nevertheless, I attended several commendable seminars to draw inspiration."

How does it feel to be acknowledged as Germany's best barber?

"The Best Barber in Germany! Right after the battle, everything appeared ordinary. Yet, within a day, my phone began incessantly ringing—press, radio, TV; everyone wanted an interview. Within a week, people entered the shop with newspapers in hand. Strangers approached to extend their congratulations... an incredible feeling!"

You have visited BarberSociety Live in Amsterdam. How did you find the event?

"It was my first time at BarberSociety Live. An outstanding event featuring remarkable shows by international barbers. The participants in the battle also delivered commendable performances. I am definitely participating in the 2024 BarberSociety Barber Battle!"

Winning the Battle is undoubtedly a career and reputation booster. What are your plans for the future? Any new projects or aspirations?

"Securing victory in the Battle proved impactful from the very beginning, as spectators

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immediately approached the stage, inquiring about seminars. Since then, I've garnered more participants for education and an increased number of bookings for the barbershop.

This victory enhanced not only my reputation but also that of Barber's Experience. Dawid and Michael, the founders of

Barber's Experience, created this successful event and community. Collaborating with the Top Hair trade fair, the international jury, and the final look of the final elevated the entire event to a new level.

On a personal note, I'm heading towards coaching in Germany. My goal is to support

and train young barbers. I will partake in international competitions, and the first destination is the BarberSociety Live Barber Battle!"

Anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

"I advise all barbers to receive a solid education and then attend many good seminars."

Jury member Battle

Winnie aka Fresh Prince the Barber

What do you think of the Battle?

I find the Battle very exciting. It's exactly what I've been missing in the last few years. Showing barbering from different perspectives. Barbering has often been presented very one-sidedly in the past.

Why do you think Samet was the winner?

Samet is the perfect example of why one should never give up. Two years ago, I met him at the Top Hair Trade Fair and managed to convince him to participate in the battles next year. Unfortunately, he was eliminated in the quarterfinals that year. Naturally, he was very disappointed, but his motivation to win the next one was greater than the disappointment. He fought his way back and prepared twice as well, not only in terms of his skills but also mentally. He is very disciplined and focused in everything he does. He had already won in his mind before it even began. As for how it turned out, we already know! His work and professionalism speak for themselves.

Any tips?

I can only advise everyone participating in such a battle to prepare really well. Haircut, technique, tools, time management, and the right models. Be creative!

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Winnie (l) photography: © Top Hair messe, Thomas Fedra

The mullet, a timeless hairstyle that blends business in the front with a party in the back, has resurged as a cultural icon, emphasizing the significance for barbers to master its art. Understanding the mullet's unique blend of precision and creativity allows barbers to cater to clients seeking this distinctive style, showcasing their expertise and versatility while satisfying the diverse tastes of their customers.

We caught up with Ryan Lewis, educator and owner of House of Barbers and the recently opened Club 13 Barber & Coffeeshop (UK), to find out more about this style and his steps for creating a heavily textured mullet in poker straight hair.

Ryan said: "I absolutely love mullets because of their sheer diversity - there's a mullet for every soul out there, they are a canvas to express passions and personalities. As barbers, delving into the art of mulletmaking is crucial; it's the key to unlock the true potential of this iconic style. Nail it, and you empower people to flaunt their uniqueness; botch it, and it's a tragic tale of awful haircuts."

A HEAVILY TEXTURED HOW TO MASTER MULLET

STEP BY STEP 77
@_rythebarber

1

Using STMNT Serum to help with section work, take a vertical section from the crown to the nape of the neck, pulling further away towards the bottom to create a layered effect and more length as you descend.

Continue taking vertical sections either side of that middle section all over directed back towards the first section taken. This will create a far fuller and longer look towards the ears ensuring this mullet cannot be missed even from a head on angle.

Taking horizontal sections from the crown down, use a deep point cutting technique to break up the edges and create more movement throughout the back of the mullet.

3 4 5 6

Connect the back of the mullet to the top of the hair using a profile section from just below the crown running up to around the recession area of the head.

Using a deep point cutting method, create exaggerated ‘peaks and valleys’ in the hair following the guide set by the previous profile section taken. It’s important with such straight hair to cut in deep ‘peaks and valleys’ in order to create a rough textured look.

Use a similar technique to chop into the fringe leaving a broken choppy finish to add to this extreme textured look.

2
Step 4 Step 5 Step 6 Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
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STEPBY-STEP

7 8

Step 7

Grab a natural finish product like the STMNT curl cream and cover the hair before blow drying with a diffuser to bring about a soft pre-styled shape.

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Step 8

Blend both side panels from a grade 2 into a 3 before using your trimmer to create a blunt, harsh line curving clean from the peak of the hairline back sitting flush with the natural curve around the ears.

Step9

Take your roughest matte products and work them into the hair in back-andforth motions allowing the hair to overlap and bring out the extreme texture that’s been cut in. I used STMNT Dry Clay with a little Spray Powder to refine.

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