BarberSociety Magazine int. Winter issue 2024/2025 (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

THE COMEBACK OF HAIR REPLACEMENT IN THE BARBER TRADE STEP-BY-STEP CREATIVE TEXTURED MULLET HANS HOLLANDER WE DON’T CUT WHAT WE CAN, BUT WHAT THE CLIENT WANTS

WINTER 2024 | #22 | € 15

MEN’S HAIR TRENDS WINTER

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

EMANUEL MEDINA I GROW THANKS TO TRAVELING

save the date

Ready for the ultimate barber event? + 2 Big Barber Battles Sunday 13 april, near Amsterdam Open to everyone interested in the barber industry! @barbersocietylive

ONLINE TICKET SALES START IN 2025

Founding editor Marc van de Hare Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Leny Vlas Journalists Ben Copeland, David Palacios Rubio, Miranda Vlas Columnists Chris Foster, Dennis van Lierop, Cor Bouw Art direction & graphic design Merktuig, Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Online sales www.barbersociety.com/magazine Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V.Amsterdam, the Netherlands, Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 info@barbersociety.com www.barbersociety.com @barbersocietymag ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B .V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. The publisher excludes any liability for damage due to printing errors or other inaccuracies. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

4 6

EDITORIAL FROM LAWYER IN URUGUAY TO THE GLOBAL STAGE AS BARBER Interview with Emanuel Medina

TRENDS 12 Alexander Kiryliuk, Salvador Oliver, Olga García Estilistas, Mike Taylor, Sid Sottung, Alexander Prasser, Leigh Winsor

PRODUCT NEWS In Shop 44 Grooming, GET MIXING! 47 Jack Daniel’s Cocktail Recipes DISCOVER THE WORLD OF HAIR SYSTEMS! 50 Novo Cabelo is making waves internationally FROM ‘CRAP CLIPPERS’ TO AWARD-WINNING BARBER 56 The story of Natalie Cresswell BARBERS & THE CITY 60 Barbershops & Hotspots in Antwerp THE FUTURE OF HAIR REPLACEMENT IN BARBERSHOPS 68 Column by Dennis van Lierop MR. FINNLEY’S BARBER BATTLE PROGRAM education program for the barber profession 70 The and the BarberSociety Battle STEP-BY-STEP 74 Creative Textured Mullet WITH HAIR SYSTEM EXPERT ERIC CRAFT 78 Q&A TALKING HAIR LOSS 80 Column by Chris Foster THE FAMILY 82 AALLniceINpiece of barbering history

including a Q&A with Hans Hollander

88 Barbershops in Hong Kong HOW TO HANDLE COMPLAINTS? 90 Column by Cor Bouw

THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO…

Hair: Mike Taylor Education (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @miketayloreducation

E D I TO R I A L

Hairpieces in the Spotlight! As I write this column, just before the Dutch winter edition goes to print, I’ve just returned from an incredible trip to China. Invited by the World Hairdressing Congress in Xiamen, we had the privilege of presenting our very first BarberSociety show on a grand stage. Under the leadership of top talents and BarberSociety community members Alan Findlay and Richie Martin, alongside four Asian barbers, it turned out to be an unforgettable experience. You can read a full report on this inspiring journey in our spring edition!

The global demand for hair systems has increased by an astonishing 500% over the past two years! 4

This trip to China was combined with a visit to Cosmoprof Asia in Hong Kong, the largest beauty and hair trade fair in Asia. I visited it seven years ago, and it was then that I first encountered hairpieces for men—modernized versions of the classic toupee, with vastly improved attachment systems and superior quality. This year, I was amazed to see the number of hair system suppliers has grown exponentially. Who would have thought this trend would make such a remarkable comeback? In just two years, global demand for hair systems has skyrocketed by a staggering 500%! Social media shows that more and more barbershops are embracing this trend, making it the perfect time to showcase hair systems in this edition and dive into all the ins and outs.

We spoke to Eric Craft, who has been the owner of a barbershop and hair replacement salon in the Netherlands for decades, as well as Novo Cabelo, one of the UK’s biggest names and educators in hair systems. One of the barbers working with their systems is award-winning barber Natalie Cresswell from the UK. Innovation is of at most importance to her — read her story on page 56. Additionally, business coaches Dennis van Lierop and Chris Foster share practical insights: Dennis focuses on the business side, while Chris offers tips on how to address and discuss hair loss with clients. Finally, third-generation Dutch barber Hans Hollander explains why he decided to stop working with hairpieces. His deep passion for the trade, inherited from his father and grandfather, shines through in his story. Learn more about the fascinating history of Hollander Herenkappers on page 82. Another passionate barber featured in this edition is Emanuel Medina (@ema_medinaok) from Uruguay, known for his phenomenal fade techniques. Emanuel travels the world, training barbers wherever he goes. Find his inspiring story on page 6.

The brand Mr. Finnley’s is cleverly tapping into BarberSociety Live. For the first time, they’ve organized a Barber Battle Program, preparing participants to shine in the BarberSociety Battle at BarberSociety Live. I can’t wait to see what these contestants will showcase in April. Preparations for BarberSociety Live 2025 are in full swing. Keep an eye on our website early next year for Battle registrations and ticket sales for the BSL 2025-editon!

coach Cor Bouw on effectively handling customer complaints.

Wishing you a creative, inspiring, and successful New Year. Happy reading!

Also in this edition: this winter season’s hair trends, the latest products, barbershops and hotspots in Antwerp, a step-bystep guide for a creative mullet, and a glimpse into barbershops in Hong Kong. You’ll also find a valuable column by business

Marc van de Hare Founder of BarberSociety Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

Finally, with the holiday season fast approaching, why not treat your clients to a festive cocktail? In this winter edition, you’ll find delicious recipes for Jack Daniel’s cocktails that are sure to be a hit.

PS Exciting news! BarberSociety Magazine’s international English-language editions are now available as digital subscriptions or single-issue downloads. Get automatic updates, be the first to explore each new issue waiting anytime, anywhere. Treat yourself or a fellow enthusiast, subscribe now or shop single issues and unlock a new way to stay inspired in the barbering world - the perfect holiday gift! 5

@ema_medinaok @ema_medinastudio

INTERVIEW

From Lawyer in Uruguay to the Global Stage as Barber Interview with Emanuel Medina

Emanuel Medina (29) was once on his way to becoming a lawyer in Uruguay. But eight years ago, his life took a different turn. Swapping heavy law books for scissors and a razor, he has since dedicated himself to mastering and elevating the art of barbering. His talent and commitment quickly set him apart, and today he’s recognized as a prominent figure in the industry.

Barbering has opened Emanuel’s mind to new cultures, perspectives, and techniques. Having travelled to over 30 countries, he shares his expertise and passion worldwide, focusing on training newcomers to the industry and sharing his experience and tips with the global community. With the momentum of the industry behind him, he’s driven to think even bigger as he continues his successful professional journey. The start Born in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, Emanuel began his law studies to fulfil his parents’ desire for him to have a stable career. But he soon realized that he wasn’t following his passion. “Here in Latin America, people think that having a degree means you’ll be successful in life. Later, you realize that’s not always the case,” he says.

and working in a clothes shop in the afternoons. “I had very little social life,” he admits. “But every bit of money I earned went into buying my tools.” Becoming a referent The sacrifices soon began to pay off when, eight years ago, he started his first professional experience in a small barbershop in his hometown of Montevideo. “It was a very popular place; we took customers without appointments, and sometimes there were 20 people waiting.” With some savings and experience, he had 2 options to make his dreams come true: start his own business or deepen his knowledge and training abroad. In the end, he decided to pack his bags and tools and travel to various Latin American countries to learn from the best hairdressers. Gradually he began to receive requests to train others,

I grow thanks to traveling Cutting friends’ hair as a hobby gave him a glimpse into the profession. When one friend suggested he start studying barbering, he decided to pursue it despite a lack of encouragement from his close circle. “A lot of people told me I wouldn’t make much money,” he recalls, noting that barbering carried a negative perception in his homeland in the past. Emanuel comes from a modest family, and in order to study he took on a tough schedule, studying hairdressing from 6am to noon 8

although at first, he wasn’t comfortable with the idea. “I didn’t accept them at first because I didn’t think I was ready,” he remembers. As his confidence grew, he changed his mind and decided that it was the moment to share his valuable knowledge and background with the world. He started leading courses for young hairdressers and barbers, and today, he is a worldwide reference for aspiring barbers. “My role is to educate globally and share my knowledge with established

figures in the field and newcomer barbers.” One of his upcoming trips will take him to Amsterdam in spring 2025, where he will lead a workshop focused primarily on fading, a technique for which he is well known in the industry worldwide. Emanuel will also discuss the theory behind cutting hair with attendees. “A lot of times we think we’re skilled at cutting hair, but we might not be as good at analysing the type of hair in front of us,” he says. For him, the key isn’t just knowing how to cut hair but also understanding the client’s skull morphology. During this time, Emanuel also opened his own business in Mar del Plata, a coastal city in Argentina, about 400 km from Buenos Aires. “Argentina is a larger country than Uruguay, which gave me more exposure and a boost on social media,” he says. The barbershop is located in the third floor and underneath he has his own tattoo studio. Setting up his business in an area with high purchasing power has also helped him develop his skills quicker, showcase his work to the world, especially on his Instagram account. “My studio is very minimalist and white. I used cold lights placed strategically so that there is no shadow anywhere and to make sure that the content for my social media is great.” Touring the world Traveling is a core part of Emanuel’s day-to-day life. He has visited 36 countries so far, including every nation in Latin America. “I grow thanks to traveling, not only to learn about trends in each part of the world but also to discover new cultures and become more open-minded,” he says. “Each country has its own cutting style, and traveling is essential for me to understand how to work in each place and

adapt to what customers are used to.” One of the things he admires most is how different barbering is from country to country. He notes that in Mexico, Peru and Brazil, barbers often use tints to add colour to designs, while this practice is less common in Argentina, Uruguay and Chile. The use of scissors also varies: it’s widely popular in some European countries, like the UK, France, and the Netherlands,

whereas in some South Asian countries like Thailand and Vietnam, the rockabilly haircut style is trendier. Travelling has also allowed him to count celebrities among his clients, including footballers Karim Benzema and Nicolás Tagliafico, reggaeton artists and international DJs. On a recent trip to Dubai to attend a seminar, he was asked to cut the hair of Puerto Rican music duo Zion and Lenox. “You see that

they are normal people and all that kind of thing really motivated me to keep doing my job,” he says. Educating the client Emanuel agrees that today’s customers are much more knowledgeable than in the past. “A while ago, people would go to the hairdresser simply for a haircut. Nowadays, most clients even know the name of the specific cut they want,” he adds. The use of the internet and social media has also helped customers become more informed about current trends. However, Emanuel acknowledges that an important part of education still lies with the professional—the barber.

“In addition to cut the hair, the barber tries to educate the client with small tips that make our customer more and more knowledgeable and expert on the topic.”

his hometown in Uruguay. And continuing with his aim to transmit the knowledge to newcomers, he would like to build a network of barber academies to train all the future barbers.

An optimistic future Emanuel’s future goals include creating his own range of barbering tools and products. So far, he has already designed a machine, combs, and razors, with plans to develop his own line of scissors and hair wax. “Having my own product line and patenting it is one of my main objectives,” he says.

After spending four years without cutting hair in a barbershop, Emanuel would like to return to where it all started—this time, with a twist. “I’d love to work in a skyscraper with a space overlooking the skyline of a big city,” he admits.

He also aims to open a second barbershop, in Buenos Aires or in

When asked if he would choose this profession again, Emanuel has no doubts. “I’d become a barber 1,000 times over.” The profession has truly transformed his life.

ALEXANDER KIRYLIUK

Collection: HOMEM Hair: Alexander Kiryliuk, SK Style Barcelona (ES) Hairdressing Assistants: Andrew Kuzmin, Ana Byda Photography: David Arnal Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia MUA: Miguel Silva Styling: Patrícia De Sá Oliveira Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Spain @skstylebarcelona @alexanderkiryliuk @bydahairs @andrew.kuzmin.hair

SPAIN

SALVADOR OLIVER

Collection: MILLENIUM Hair: Salvador Oliver, La Barbería de Oliver (ES) Hairdressing Assistants: Monica Moreno & Ángel Prieto Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Mokart Styling: Mónica Moreno @Salvador_Oliver__, @labarberiadeoliver

SPAIN

OLGA GARCÍA ESTILISTAS

Collection: Noir Hair: Olga García Estilistas (ES) Hairdressing Assistant: Esther de la Fuente Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Ana Arjona Stylist: Esteban Roca Products: Keune @peluqueriaolgagarcia

SPAIN

Collection: Noir Hair: Olga García Estilistas (ES) Hairdressing Assistant: Esther de la Fuente Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Ana Arjona Stylist: Esteban Roca Products: Keune @peluqueriaolgagarcia

MIKE TAYLOR

Collection: The Chic Geek Collection Hair: Mike Taylor Education (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Styling: Emily Taylor Art Direction: Mike Taylor Products: Denman Jack Dean Images: FPA @miketayloreducation

UNITED KINGDOM

SID SOTTUNG

Collection: White Russian Hair & Styling: Sid Sottung (UK) Photography: Ganchurphoto Makeup: Yana Akhmetzhanova Products: Nineyards Haircare Tools: Yoiscissors, Andis @sidsottungacadamy

UNITED KINGDOM

Collection: White Russian Hair & Styling: Sid Sottung (UK) Photography: Ganchurphoto Makeup: Yana Akhmetzhanova Products: Nineyards Haircare Tools: Yoiscissors, Andis @sidsottungacadamy

AUSTRIA

ALEXANDER PRASSER

Hair: Alexander Prasser, Duke Johns’ Barbershop (AT) Photography: Stefan Leitner @dukejohns_barbershop_graz

Duke Johns’ Barbershop – A Place for Cultivated Style For Alexander Prasser, the owner of Duke Johns’ Barbershop, barbering is more than just a profession —it’s an art and a way of life. With this new campaign, he seeks to show that a barbershop experience can be as exquisite as a fine dining experience. “We serve more than just a haircut,” says Prasser. “We create looks that are as carefully crafted as a menu in a Michelin-starred restaurant.”

Hair: Alexander Prasser, Duke Johns’ Barbershop (AT) Photography: Stefan Leitner @dukejohns_barbershop_graz

Collection: Good Mourning Hair: Leigh Winsor (AU) Photography: David Mannah Stylist: Josie McManus Make Up: Mikele Simone @leighwinsor @onezeroone.education

LEIGH WINSOR

AUSTRALIA

DEPOT NO. 305 VOLUMIZER SPRAY Does your hair look flat minutes after drying it? Get more volume and control with NO. 305 VOLUMIZER! The ingredients give hair body, texture and a ‘lived-in’ look while supporting the moisture level of the hair. Spray on damp hair and dry your hair naturally or with a blow-dryer. More information www.depotmaletools.com

GROOMING

CAPTAIN FAWCETT NEBULA SIGNATURE SERIES EAU DE PARFUM This fresh rendition developed together with American Rock Royalty John Petrucci is a potent Eau De Parfum. Harmonising with the Nebula’ line up, it marches to its own beat creating perfect balance in a universe of infinite transformation. Opening with dazzling Bergamot & crisp licks of Rosemary, rockstar Florals take centre stage against a smoking Guaiac Wood bassline, pulsing with deep, balsamic Cedarwood & the musky enigma of Ambergris, resulting in a crescendo of aromatic intensity. Receive complimentary a highly collectible Special Edition John Petrucci Monogrammed Enamel Badge in galactic black & silver. More information www.captainfawcett.com 44

18.21 MAN MADE STYLING GEL Even the toughest man has a soft side. That’s why the 18.21 Man Made Styling Gel is now available. Powerful yet incredibly lightweight. It hydrates, nourishes, improves elasticity, and prevents breakage. This alcohol-free gel offers flexible hold with a medium shine, leaving hair fuller and hydrated without any stickiness or flakes. It remains brush-able and rinses out easily. Enriched with the legendary Sweet Tobacco scent: a blend of saffron, dark-toned vanilla, honey and tobacco. More information www.1821manmade.com

The new WAHL 5 Star Vapor™ clipper delivers powerful performance and flawless fades for barbers. The innovative F32 Fadeout™ blade is the world’s first to enable seamless transitions from extremely short cuts (bald) to longer hair sections (fade). With 50% more cutting teeth than standard clippers, it operates smoothly and is skin-friendly, even in Zero-Overlap mode. The Vapor™ features a lightweight, ergonomic design and a powerful 8000 rpm motor that can handle any hair type. Thanks to Safe Quick Charge technology, it offers 150 minutes of use after just 60 minutes of charging. More information www.wahl.com

GROOMING / IN SHOP

WAHL 5 STAR VAPOR™ NEW

BARBERSHOPS & HOTSPOTS IN DUSHI CURAÇAO AUTUMN 2024 HAIR COLOUR TRENDS

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

TIPS FOR CREATIVE ENTREPRENEURSHIP STEFAN AVANZATO THE MORE YOU SHOW YOURSELF, THE MORE OPPORTUNITIES COME YOUR WAY

FALL 2024 | #27 | € 16

BARBER KOOS & THE HIPPIE ARMY OF THE 1970S

BarberSociety Magazine introduces N EW digital subscription! The Barbershop Cuts & Cocktails ligt in de Boulevard Tower van The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas,

verrassingsoptredens van beroemdheden, waaronder Bruno Mars en Anderson Paak, Zac Brown, Dave Matthews, Machine Gun Kelly en Travis Barker, weet je nooit wie er op het podium zal staan. De Barbershop biedt stijlvolle coupes, gezichtsbehandelingen, een traditionele scheerbeurt, baardverzorging en nog veel meer, in combinatie met het volledige barmenu. Een ervaring die je nergens anders zult vinden.

Photography: © David J Crew , Clique Hospitality, Alex Jerome

en is een super de luxe barbershop zoals je er nog nooit een hebt gezien. Je kunt er niet alleen high-end kapsels en geweldige whiskeycocktails krijgen, maar ze bieden ook een ongelooflijke speakeasy met opwindende live muziekoptredens zeven avonden per week, waaronder ‘All Request Sundays’, ‘Wild West Wednesdays’ en ‘Faded Karaoke’, een avond waarop gasten zelf het podium op kunnen om hun favorieten te zingen, onder begeleiding van een live band. Met eerdere

INTERVIEW

From Lawyer in Uruguay to the Global Stage as Barber Interview with Emanuel Medina

@ema_medinaok @ema_medinastudio

Fidel ‘Gucci’ Hernandez

The Barbershop Cuts & Cocktails The Cosmopolitan, grote zaal van het casino, ingang aan de Las Vegas Boulevard 3708 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 +1 (702) 698-7434 https://thebarbershoplv.com @thebarbershoplv

Smerling ‘Rockstar’ Montero

Nick Karel

BARBERS & THE CITY

SUBSCRIBE NOW! Visit www.barbersociety.com/magazine-international to explore your digital subscription or purchase single issues today.

For the first time, BarberSociety Magazine’s international English language edition is now available as a digital subscription or single issues! Access exclusive content tailored for barbers and their clients—delivering the inspiration, tips, and stories you need anytime, anywhere. Why Go Digital? Stay ahead with worldwide trends, techniques, and interviews Discover business tips and lifestyle inspiration for barbers and beyond Automatic updates—always have the newest issue in hand every quarter. Choose Your Option Single Issue: € 4.95 Subscription: € 35.64 (8 issues: save €3.96!)

BARBERS COCKTAILS

Festive Cocktails in the Barbershop

The holiday season is just around the corner, and barbershops are elevating the experience with the occasional delicious cocktail. Men appreciate bold cocktails with no-nonsense ingredients, rich flavors, and just the right amount of character. Whether it’s a robust Old Fashioned or a smooth Whiskey Sour, the perfect cocktail adds a touch of celebration to every visit. Jack Daniel’s is known for its timeless quality and rich flavor – a whiskey that’s exceptional on its own, yet also the perfect base for a great cocktail. Whether you choose a classic Jack & Coke or a sophisticated Gentleman Jack Sour, Jack Daniel’s always brings that authentic, full-bodied taste you won’t soon forget.

Photo: Celso de Sanders

Ingredients Fill a longdrink glass with ice cubes Add 35ml Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Top with cola Garnish with a lime wedge

A classic ‘Jack & Coke’ ‘Gentleman Jack Sour’ Ingredients Fill a shaker with ice Add 50ml Gentleman Jack, 25ml fresh lemon juice, 20ml simple syrup, and (optional) 1 egg white Shake vigorously to mix well and create a creamy texture Strain into a tumbler filled with ice Garnish with a lemon slice and a cherry

Discover the World of Hair Systems! Novo Cabelo Set Up Roots in the Netherlands Picture this: a client walks into your barbershop, struggling with baldness or thinning hair. What if you could give them a full head of hair within two hours, without any surgery? That’s exactly what Novo Cabelo offers—and now they’re making a name for themself on the Dutch market!

Novo Cabelo is one of the leading Hair System Educators and Suppliers in the UK, now making waves internationally with their innovative hair solutions. Garnering over 100 million views on social media, they have become a household name. Their TikTok videos, showcasing surprise hair transformations and captivating ‘blind reactions,’ have become a huge hit. Why Hair Systems? It’s no secret that hair loss can be a major concern for many people. It can severely impact self-confidence, and that’s where Rob Wood (founder and director of Novo Cabelo) and his team come in. They provide non-surgical hair systems that allow clients to enjoy a full head of hair quickly and safely. Believe it or not, the demand for hair systems has surged by a staggering 500% worldwide over the past two years! For barbers looking to expand their services, this is a massive opportunity worth exploring. 50

Rob Wood, @novocabelohair

BRAND BITE

The Dutch market: Ready for hair systems The first salon in the Netherlands to partner with Novo Cabelo is Hairsystem Verheij. After completing training with Novo Cabelo in Dublin, they are now an official ‘Novo Pro’ partner. This means that their clients can soon enjoy hair systems that last three to six months, with little touch-ups needed every three to four weeks. Rob shares: “We are delighted to see our very first Novo Pro operating in the Netherlands. We already have nearly 80 salon partners in the UK and a thriving community of around 155 trained Novo Pro stylists nationally and internationally. We’re looking forward to leveraging internationally further – watch this space!”

Photography: Marie Harkness 51

Visit Novo Cabelo at BarberSociety Live 2025, Sunday, 13 April Kai and Mandy from Hairsystem Verheij share their experience “We kept seeing incredible transformations on social media— balding men suddenly sporting full heads of hair. We looked at each other and thought, ‘We want to offer this too!’ The idea of helping people in our salon regain their confidence with a hair system, without needing a medical reason, was very appealing. After a brief market study, we quickly realized this service was rare in the Netherlands at such a high level. We were also drawn to how accessible it is—it can be offered directly from the salon. Eventually, we reached out to Novo Cabelo. Although they only provided training in the UK and Ireland, we took the leap and signed up for a session in Dublin. Communication was seamless, and they made the process as easy as possible. In July, we flew to Dublin for the training. It was an amazing experience—great atmosphere, clear instructions, and very educational. Plus, the quality of the hair systems is outstanding! After earning our certificate, we returned to the Netherlands and fitted our first hair system. It’s fantastic to offer this service, and we’ve already made several clients happy with beautiful, new hair.” Kai and Mandy, Hairsystem Verheij Proud Novo Cabelo partners 54

What Novo Cabelo offers your barbershop Joining the ‘Novo Pro’ program comes with more than just training and support from Novo Cabelo. It gives you the chance to offer your clients something truly special. Rob Wood explains: “We predominantly see high demand from a male client base who are suffering male balding. However, as the brand and awareness expands, demand has grown from other market segments including women, children with permanent hair loss, cancer patients and members of the trans-gender community, and as such we are able to offer short and long hair systems.” So, what does the training involve? Novo Cabelo offers dedicated training days at various locations in the UK, where you can learn to apply their hair systems with precision. This ensures that you’re fully prepared to deliver a highquality service to your clients.

Meet Rob and the team at BarberSociety Live Curious to learn more? Great news! Rob Wood and his team will be attending BarberSociety Live in April 2025 in Amsterdam. This is the perfect opportunity to meet him in person, learn more about the Novo Pro program, and discover how you can grow your barbershop with this new service. Novo Cabelo is on track to becoming a global leader, with an impressive list of accolades to their name. They’ve been finalists for the ‘Social Stylist of the Year’ at the British Hairdressing Business Awards for three consecutive years and ranked 17th in the Top 100 Influencers in 2023. In short, if you’re looking for a way to offer your clients something unique and take your barbershop to the next level, Novo Cabelo could be just what you need. Who knows? You might just become the next Novo Pro! More information Visit their website at www.novocabelo.co.uk, check out their training programs at www.novocabelo.co.uk/salon-training, or stop by BarberSociety Live 2025 to see it all for yourself!

INTERVIEW

@nat.cresswell @cresswellbarberco

The story of Natalie Cresswell

From ‘crap clippers’ to awardwinning Barber

I think barbering in the UK is moving more towards high-end men’s grooming

“I went in with a crap pair of clippers. It’s embarrassing thinking about it,” Natalie Cresswell chuckles, recalling her first step into the barbering world. It’s hard to imagine that this moment of youthful courage would lead to where she stands today: at the helm of an award-winning barbershop in Southampton (UK) that’s redefining the industry’s approach to hair replacement and men’s grooming.

Two decades ago, Natalie was a teenager who “had no idea what I wanted to do leaving school.” Today, she’s the owner of one of the UK’s most innovative barbershops, a four-time winner of The Modern Barber Awards, including Best All Round Barber, Best Business Leader and Best Team award 2 years running, and a pioneer in the growing field of hair replacement systems. Her journey from uncertain beginnings to industry leader tells a story of how passion, adaptability, and a commitment to innovation can transform not just careers, but an entire industry. From nursing to barbering: An unexpected journey “I went to college thinking I was going to be a nurse,” Natalie shares, amusement evident in her voice. “I don’t know why, because I hate blood, I’m rubbish at science and I’m crap at anything academic.” After a week of nursing studies, she found herself at the college reception,

desperately seeking alternatives. A single spot remained in hairdressing – and the rest, as they say, is history. Her entry into barbering came through what she now describes as an endearingly awkward moment: “I just kind of phoned up a barbershop out the yellow pages on my lunch break one day and was like, ‘are you hiring?’ And they said yeah! And I went in completely inexperienced with this crap pair of clippers. It’s embarrassing thinking about it.” That leap of faith turned into a two-decade journey that would see her transform from novice to award-winning business owner. Breaking free and building better The path to opening Cresswell Barber Co. wasn’t just about business – it was about values. “I was working for a guy that was really awful,” Natalie remembers. “He was really sexist, homophobic to the clients, and nasty to the 57

team.” The final straw came when he fired a colleague for being pregnant. Backed by her father’s advice – “you’re gonna have to open your own one, mate, because you’re never going to find the perfect place working for people like that” – she took the plunge. Choosing a location others deemed too quiet, Natalie saw opportunity where others saw risk. “A lot of people said, it’s not going to work there... that’s where no one goes. There are loads of empty shops there.” Her response? “Challenge accepted. I’ll make it happen.” Nine years later, her shop has become wellestablished, earning recognition with multiple industry awards, including two local distinctions as one of the Top 3 Best Rated Barbershops in Southampton. The evolution of excellence What sets Cresswell Barber Co. apart isn’t just skill – it’s adaptability. “I think barbering in the UK is moving more towards high-end men’s grooming” Natalie observes. Her shop has evolved 58

from offering £10 walk-in haircuts to becoming a comprehensive grooming destination, including services like eyebrow threading, facials, hair and beard colouring and notably, hair replacement systems. Revolutionising hair replacement Natalie’s venture into hair systems began at Salon International, Europe’s largest hair and beauty convention in London. After years of observing the industry, a demonstration by Novo Cabelo’s founder, Rob Wood, caught her attention. “God, that actually looks so fun,” she thought, leading her to fly herself and her Manager Charlie to Newcastle for training. The technical process is meticulous. “We colour match and texture match the existing hair and give the client a glue allergy test first,” Natalie explains. The hair systems arrive within a week, and the transformation begins. The application involves careful preparation: “We shave the top out of the hair

completely... also applying an anti-sweat spray and a topical skin barrier to protect the scalp... there’s about three layers of glue in between the hair system and the skin so it’s really important to get this part right.” But it’s more than just technical expertise – it’s about understanding the human element. “They sometimes say, I’ve lost my hair due to either treatments like chemotherapy, or they’ve just naturally lost their hair and their confidence is low. It’s caused some clients to lose relationships and some won’t even look in the mirror at themselves.” Natalie shares. “And then just instantly, their face, when it’s on and it’s done, and you turn them around in the mirror, not only do they look 20 years younger, but you can just see them lift up, the confidence is palpable.” The business reality While hair systems offer exciting opportunities, Natalie is refreshingly honest about the business aspects. “The basic

haircuts are your bread and butter. For sure, they are around 90% of our income.” The hair system service has seen “a steady incline” rather than skyrocketing success, partly due to the sensitive nature of the service. “We find it’s still a slight taboo subject,” she notes, making marketing particularly challenging. For barbershop owners considering adding hair systems, Natalie advises: “It’s an outlay in the beginning, it’s expensive to start and get involved in, but it’s becoming really popular and it’s fun to do something a bit different behind the chair sometimes.” The key is viewing it as part of a broader strategy to differentiate your business

evolve and change,” she states

And I went in completely inexperienced with this crap pair of clippers. It’s embarrassing thinking about it from high-street competitors. Looking forward As Natalie prepares for a new chapter – she’s seven months pregnant during our interview – her business continues to evolve. Plans include looking after her award-winning team, a complete website redesign, expanded social media presence, and additional chairs and barbers. Her resident videographer recently created an Instagram video promoting the brand for Halloween, featuring pumpkin-headed walks through the shop’s high street – a testament to Cresswell Barber Co.’s creative approach to marketing. “I’m always looking for things to

firmly. “Standing still is how you’re going to get left behind. And I’ve seen it happen to a lot of local businesses and barbershops near me. That will never be us.” From those first nervous days with “crap clippers” to running an award-winning establishment that’s redefining modern barbering, Natalie Cresswell’s journey exemplifies the power of authenticity, adaptability, and unwavering commitment to growth. As the industry continues to evolve, she’s proving that success comes not just from mastering the technical aspects of barbering, but from having a supportive team, the courage to embrace change and prioritize human connection above all. 59

BARBERS & THE CITY

For inspiration, we’re showcasing barbershops from different cities. This time, we’re highlighting Antwerp, the vibrant diamond city of Belgium and a major cultural hub. Discover the trendiest barbershops in Antwerp and the must-visit hotspots, recommended by barbers, that you shouldn’t miss during your trip to this glowing city. From historic buildings to dynamic street art, Antwerp has something for everyone! 61

BARBERS & THE CITY

The Cave Antwerp Keizerstraat 3 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)3 344 46 72 @thecaveantwerp www.thecaveantwerp.com The Cave Antwerp, founded in 2018, is the stylish underground barbershop in the heart of the city where men can get the perfect haircut. This ‘hidden gem’ also offers the ultimate beard trim for a well-groomed, sharp look. Led by owner Leslie Schwartz, a true master of his craft, you’ll experience unparalleled service here. Over the years, Leslie has honed his expertise through courses both at home and abroad and spent 11 years as an instructor for the national federation Febelhair. The Cave Antwerp is a must-visit underground barbershop for any man visiting Antwerp. 62

OUR HOTSPOTS Thai by Sanito Minderbroedersrui 43 Antwerp Belgium +32(0)3 234 01 89 @thaibysanito www.thaibysanito.be Thai By Sanito is an exquisite Thai restaurant in the city center, where authentic flavors and dishes come together. Experience the essence of Thai cuisine with traditional dishes prepared using fresh ingredients. The elegant interior and warm ambiance make every meal special. For both classic and unexpected creations, Thai By Sanito is the perfect destination.

Het Leienpaleis Maria-Henriëttalei 1 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)3 344 05 16 @leienpaleis www.leienpaleis.be The Leienpaleis is Antwerp’s premier dance club, where atmosphere and good vibes converge in the grand, historic courthouse building. This unique venue exudes class and history, setting the stage for nights full of energy and music. Let the beats carry you away and enjoy an unforgettable night in one of the city’s most iconic landmarks!

Lef Herenmode Minderbroedersrui 66 Antwerp Belgium @lefAntwerp www.facebook.com/LefAntwerp Lef Menswear offers a unique collection of quality brands such as Zilton, IKKS, Closed, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Lyle & Scott, Drykorn, and more. The boutique is renowned for its stylish and contemporary clothing for the modern man, where boldness and class take center stage. From casual to sophisticated looks, Lef always has something to offer.

BARBERS & THE CITY

Chaplin’s Barbershop Londenstraat 12 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)3 344 79 78 www.chaplinsantwerp.be @chaplinsbarbershop Rinni Schrauwen, born and raised in Antwerp, discovered his passion for barbering at a young age and nurtured an ambition to excel in the craft. After finishing high school, he joined Toni&Guy —a prestigious training program for both aspiring and seasoned stylists—where he honed his skills with determination. After two to three years, it became clear that Rinni wanted to carve out his own path. The rise of the Rotterdam concept ‘Schorem Barbier’ inspired him to develop his unique style. In 2013, he opened Chaplin’s Barbershop on Londenstraat in Antwerp, where he offers the perfect blend of authentic 64

old-school barbering and technical precision in a cool, London-style atmosphere. Their goal? Ensuring every client leaves as the best version of themselves—whether it’s their hair, beard, or both! OUR HOTSPOTS Casa Conservas Varkensmarkt 1 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)4 806 317 73 www.casaconservas.be @casa_conservas Casa Conservas at the Varkensmarkt is a fantastic spot with a unique atmosphere. The manager, a longtime friend and loyal fan of Chaplin’s, always ensures a warm welcome. It’s the perfect place to enjoy amazing tapas and delightful drinks, all in a cozy and inviting setting.

t’ Licht der Dokken Verbindingsdok-Westkaai 2 Antwerp Belgium www.lichtderdokken.be An amazing old café where there’s always a great vibe and ambiance. Located just a stone’s throw away from Chaplin’s Barbershop, it’s our go-to spot for a pint or two after a busy day. Kings and Queens Sint Jorispoort 37 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)4 924 750 19 www.kings-queens.be @kingsqueens_store A super cool shop with excellent service, offering the toughest clothing and badass boots to match!

BARBERS & THE CITY

Barber Buzzy Sint-Katelijnevest 33 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)48 926 71 44 @barber_buzzy In the historic centre, Hamza can be found with his barber shop, Barber Buzzy. Here you will find a highly experienced barber who focuses on top-notch service and great vibes. With its stylish and warm interior, Hamza has had the honour of welcoming top Belgian football players, but his everyday clientele also experiences nothing less than the best quality. From classic shaves to the latest trendy cuts, Barber Buzzy is the place to be. Here, you’ll enjoy an authentic experience that lets you escape the daily grind and truly savor your barber visit in Antwerp.

OUR HOTSPOTS Joe & The Juice Wiegstraat 21 Antwerp Belgium www.joeandthejuice.com @joeandthejuice At Joe & The Juice, there’s always an awesome vibe. People come to enjoy something healthy and chat with friends. It’s a great place to meet new faces and network! Caffé Barbossa Sint Jorispoort 2 Antwerp Belgium www.caffe-barbossa.be @caffèbarbossa Caffe Barbossa, located in Antwerp’s Theater District, is a cozy and charming bar where everyone feels at home. Enjoy excellent coffee and a variety of

tea options, but make sure to visit for the wide selection of cocktails, wine, and beer. With its warm atmosphere and inviting interior, it’s the perfect spot to treat yourself to a relaxing moment. State of Art Huidevettersstraat 57 Antwerp Belgium +32 (0)3 253 10 64 www.stateofart.com @stateofart_nl State of Art blends classic style with modern influences for the stylish, contemporary man. Known for its premium materials, timeless look, and details inspired by racing and automotive history, the brand offers a carefully curated collection of casual and formal wear focused on craftsmanship and comfort. It’s a must-visit for men’s fashion in the heart of Antwerp.

C O LU M N D E N N I S VA N L I E R O P

Love at Second Sight: The Future of Hair Replacement in Barbershops Imagine a way to generate up to € 5,000 in additional revenue per client—would you know what to do?

The future of barbershops lies in tapping into the enormous potential of hair replacement. With advancements in manufacturing, today’s highquality hair systems and wigs are a world apart from the past. They’re durable, water-resistant, and look incredibly natural, right down to a lifelike hairline that’s virtually undetectable. Clients can swim, sauna, and live their lives without a second thought. This market is booming, and the potential is staggering. Hair replacement isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about giving clients something they deeply value—confidence and authenticity. Barbershops that tap into this potential are not 68

just offering a product but a life-enhancing service. Clients love three things above all: expertise, a clearly defined service, and a truly personalized experience. When you combine these elements, you create a powerful business model that elevates your barbershop above the competition. From a Customer’s Perspective For many clients, hair replacement is a daunting prospect. They wonder, “Will people notice? Will it feel real? What if it’s uncomfortable?” But once they step into a professional barbershop that specializes in high-quality hair replacement, their perspective shifts dramatically.

Photo: @maccasyagency One customer shared, “I had so many worries, but the experience changed my life. The hair looks and feels so natural that no one can tell. I can go to the pool, enjoy the sauna, and feel like myself again. The care and expertise of my barbershop made all the difference, transforming what I feared into something I now love.” Such testimonials highlight the profound impact hair replacement can have, turning hesitant clients into lifelong, loyal advocates. The Gold Key to a Premium Barbershop Experience By investing in hair replacement, barbershops are not just meeting a trend but creating a sustainable business upgrade that clients will

keep coming back for. This is an opportunity to be at the forefront of a premium service that appeals to a diverse clientele. Start by dedicating time to research and training, ensuring that your barbershop offers top-level expertise and care. This approach could well be the golden key to securing not only higher revenues but also lasting client relationships. In a world of endless options, become the barbershop that offers clients an exceptional, lifechanging experience—and a future they can look forward to. Dennis van Lierop @halo_edutainment 69

BRAND BITE

Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program In the ever-evolving world of men’s grooming, staying ahead of the trends and continually refining your skills is crucial. Enter Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program: an exclusive training initiative designed to prepare barbers in the Netherlands to excel in their craft and compete in the prestigious BarberSociety Battle, held during BarberSociety Live.

Cay Kleeven, Creative Director at Mr. Finnley’s, explains: “We’ve received countless requests for barber training programs, but expectations varied widely, making it challenging to create a one-sizefits-all approach. However, the Barber Battle events bring together all essential techniques and skills. That’s why we launched the Barber Battle Program. It’s incredible to work with such a motivated team and help individual barbers elevate their skills. Participation and learning are more important than winning, though it’s still a competition! Many barbers hesitate to enter battles, but I believe the process itself is essential for professional growth. It challenges you to be creative and apply strategies 70

you wouldn’t normally use in day-to-day work.” Under the guidance of Cay Kleeven and Yvonne Kok, participants not only gain technical expertise but also the inspiration and tools needed to stand out in the competitive battle scene. This program offers a unique opportunity for barbers to learn from top professionals and give their careers a significant boost, paving the way for a bright future in men’s grooming. A Unique Training Journey: From Basics to Battle-Ready What sets Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program apart is its high level of education and intensive structure. Over six training days, participants learn from

Grooming a New Generation for the Barbering Craft and the BarberSociety Live Battles 2025! internationally acclaimed barbers such as Frank Vonkeman, Tiziano diMarco, Cay Kleeven, and Yvonne Kok, a Coiffure Award-winning barber. These experts bring an immense amount of knowledge and inspiration, guiding participants with ambitions to compete in the BarberSociety Battles —the ultimate test of skill in the barbering world. The carefully curated sessions cover both technical expertise and mental preparation. From mastering precise cutting and shaving techniques to beard grooming, styling, and creative processes, participants receive everything they need to develop their unique style and elevate their work to

a professional, international standard. Hone Your Skills and Expand Your Expertise Whether you’re new to barbering or a seasoned professional looking to push your limits, this program equips you with tools and techniques to grow and challenge yourself. The Barber Battle Program focuses on technical insight, creativity, and innovation. Participants train in three BarberSociety Battle categories: Cleanest Fade, Old School Scissor Cut, and Freestyle. The training goes beyond technique. Participants delve into advanced product usage for styling, blow-drying, and perfecting haircuts. They also

learn to work within time constraints, present their creations confidently, and defend their unique styles. The battle aspect prepares them for high-pressure performance and helps them stand out in a competitive industry. Turning Inspiration into Creativity In addition to technical skills, the program emphasizes the importance of creativity in barbering. Yvonne Kok, Dutch Coiffure Award 2024 winner for Men’s Hair, shares insights on transforming mental tension into creative output. During the sessions, she inspires participants to channel their inner artist and turn pressure into innovation and craftsmanship. 71

product advice—it’s an art. That’s why we aim to revitalize authenticity in the trade, foster entrepreneurship, and build a community where barbers feel supported and inspired. Our Barber Battle Program isn’t just a training initiative —it’s a launchpad for future talent. We’re giving the new generation the opportunity to grow their skills and embrace their potential. By combining top-level training with the creativity of Barber Battles, we hope this program becomes one of the most inspiring and influential in the Netherlands.” Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program 2026 Ready to take your barbering career to the next level? The Dutch Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program is your chance to train with the best, learn the latest techniques, and prepare to compete—not just against others but with yourself. This program not only sharpens your technical abilities but also teaches you to fuse creativity with expertise. Participants learn to express themselves through their work, creating standout hairstyles that reflect their personal style. Nurturing Talent for the Future Guido Smallenbroek, Director at Mr. Finnley’s, shares his vision: “With the Barber Battle Program, we’re investing in the future of men’s grooming. At Mr. Finnley’s, we believe in authenticity and traditional craftsmanship. Men’s grooming is more than just cutting hair, beard care, and 72

Want to learn more about the 2026 program in the Netherlands? Sign up now—only six spots are available! For registration, email: educatie@salonpartners.nl. More About Mr. Finnley’s Mr. Finnley’s products are exclusively available to barbers and men’s hairstylists, not through online channels or stores. Luxurious, high-quality products, authenticity, and craftsmanship —this is the future according to Mr. Finnley’s. www.mrfinnleys.com educatie@salonpartners.nl Instagram: @mrfinnleys Facebook: /mrfinnleys

Participants Share Their Experience about the Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program Marjan “After more than 20 years in the men’s grooming trade, this program is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to take my skills to the next level. For me, barbering is an art, and I strive to master it at the highest level.” Sanne “I joined to refine my technical skills, nurture my creativity, and push my talents to the limit, with pride and passion for the craft.”

Jannick “Barbering has been in my family for four generations, and I want to continue the legacy. My goal is to improve my technical skills, work faster, and find inspiration by networking and participating in Barber Battles.”

Bas “Joining Mr. Finnley’s Barber Battle Program allows me to learn new techniques and grow as a barber. This training fuels my creativity and ambition, motivating me to keep improving. Whether I win or not, it’s an incredible opportunity to gain inspiration, increase my visibility, and build valuable connections in the barbering world.”

Step-by-Step Creative Textured

reate a triangular section at the top C of the head and on both sides.

Comb the top hair downwards. Starting on the right side, shorten the ends to the desired length using the machine-over-finger technique. Repeat this process around the head until the top of head is an even length.

2 Starting on the left side with the WAHL SENIOR

and the adjustment lever closed, shave a line running diagonally backwards, ending about three finger widths above the ear. Create a mirrored transition and blend it upwards to the line (to do this, slowly adjust the machine lever from closed to open.). Then place the size #1 attachment on the machine and blend the transition again with the lever closed.

6 Shorten the top hair evenly at a 90° angle

and create additional texture in the ends using point cutting.

At the shoot for the global Wahl Future Makers™ Volume II collection in L.A., 11 of the world’s best WAHL trainers from eight countries came together to develop the trend cuts for 2024. This Creative Textured Mullet was created by Kevin Nguyen, Lead Educator of the WAHL Professional Education Team USA. It’s a modern interpretation of the classic mullet with artistic accents and a rebellious touch and offers endless styling possibilities.

Mullet

Use the WAHL Hi-Viz™ to contour the art line more strongly.

4 Blend the chops on the right side upwards using

Comb the entire top of head downwards and check again for evenness.

the WAHL SENIOR and the size #1 attachment in classic fade style, without line art. Then fade again without the attachment with upward movements, moving the lever from “closed” to “open”.

Also shorten the hair at the top back of the head at a 90° angle continuously to the guide line from the top of the head.

Divide radial sections from top to bottom.

Dry the hair with the WAHL BARBER DRYER and then shape with a styling product and work out the texture.

Work with horizontal sub-sections at the back of the head and texture the ends of the hair using the point-cutting technique and adjust to the upper guide line.

Campaign: Wahl Future Makers Vol.2 ‘24 Hair: @yakuzabarber/ Kevin Nguyen Photography: WAHL Professional Tools: WAHL SENIOR, WAHL Hi-Viz™, WAHL BARBER DRYER @wahlproeurope, @wahlpro

Q &A

Q&A with Hair System Expert Eric Craft Eric Craft is the owner of Salon Craft in the Netherlands, operating a dedicated salon for men, women, and hair systems. Since the 1970s, they’ve been offering solutions for hair loss, such as wigs and hairpieces, alongside expert haircuts and a wide range of barbering services. As a specialist in this field, we sat down with Eric to learn more about his craft.

All our hairpieces are made from real hair. During the pandemic, supply chains faced massive delays, so I decided to source directly from manufacturers in China. This allows me to receive them within 10 days, sometimes even a week—much faster than the usual lead times of several weeks or months. By cutting out the middleman, I’m competitive both in price and speed.

Why did you start working with hair systems?

In the 1970s, when men began growing their hair longer, my father sought innovation and found it in hair systems. He quickly began providing custom-made pieces under his own name. I started training in hair systems 41 years ago but chose to focus on designing and sourcing them. Thanks to my training, I understand the structure of hair systems.

Where do the hairpieces come from? In the past, I worked with renowned companies which supplied us with top-quality hairpieces. I would then customize them for clients. 78

Do you offer custom solutions?

90% of the hairpieces I provide for men are semi-custom. I maintain stock and order hair bases in various thicknesses and colours. These include nearly all natural shades and grey percentages ranging from 10% to 60%. A base piece typically measures 24x18cm, which we trim to the client’s specific needs. I determine the base thickness, hair density, and whether or not a grey streak is required. It’s truly a tailored service.

How long does a hairpiece last?

That depends on the thickness and how it’s maintained. Ultra-thin bases of 0.2mm can only be worn twice; they’re so fine and

delicately knotted that the scalp is visible through the hair. Bases with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6mm are more durable and can be worn three to four times before needing replacement. On average, a hairpiece lasts about six months. They’re attached directly to the scalp with medicinal adhesive and typically stay in place for about four weeks. The hair on the top doesn’t grow, but the hair at the sides and along the contours does. At that point, a service appointment is needed to maintain the seamless integration of the top piece with the natural hair growth around it.

What’s the cost of a hairpiece, all-inclusive?

For men, we charge an all-inclusive monthly fee of € 250 — € 3,000 annually. This includes a monthly service appointment and a new hairpiece whenever necessary. This ensures the hair always looks great and the quality of the hairpiece is maintained. From day one, it’s a perfect fit. If a colour correction is needed—for instance, after a vacation—that’s also included. We make sure you are never embarrassed.

Do clients eventually tire of wearing hairpieces?

Not at all! I have clients who started wearing hairpieces in their twenties and are still wearing them in their sixties —that’s 40 years! I even have a client from the fashion industry who’s been wearing hairpieces for 25 years and changes styles every four months, sometimes opting for a quiff. Hairpieces are so natural now that clients can swim, visit the sauna, and live life fully. Most don’t even realize they have a bald spot— except when they’re in my chair! Clients are willing to invest because their appearance matters to them.

We have clients traveling from all over the Netherlands and even from Luxembourg every four weeks for their service appointments, which makes us incredibly proud. It’s a significant part of our business at Salon Craft.

How have hair systems evolved over the years?

In the past, hairpieces were attached with double-sided tape—the classic toupee. Clients would remove them at night, placing them on the nightstand, and put them back on in the morning. It was like a prosthetic, similar to a denture in a glass. Today, hairpieces are securely attached to the scalp and feel like a natural part of the person.

Cosmetic treatment or a hairpiece for hair loss?

We offer cosmetic treatments to slow hair loss—these are usually products applied to the scalp to stimulate hair cells. But this only works if there’s still hair left. Hair that’s gone is gone for good. For clients where cosmetic solutions no longer work, hair systems are the answer. This could be someone with genetic hair loss, which isn’t necessarily

age-related. We use both hair additions—where a base is integrated with existing hair—and full hair replacements. Hair additions involve attaching a base to the natural hair on the crown, allowing some natural hair to blend through. Hair replacement, on the other hand, involves shaving the crown and attaching a base directly to the scalp—primarily for men. We also provide wigs for medical reasons, often for women undergoing chemotherapy.

What advice do you have for barbers interested in offering hair systems?

There’s a lot to learn, so I recommend training with specialized companies. Beyond that, hands-on experience is key. Over the years, I’ve developed techniques to deliver the best results for my clients.

Do you offer training for barbers?

If a small group of barbers shows interest, I’m open to it. At the moment, I’m too busy with the salon to offer large-scale training, but this might change in the near future.

They forget they’re even wearing a hairpiece 79

C O LU M N C H R I S FO ST E R

Talking Hair Loss How to Support Clients Through Change For many men, hair loss isn’t just about losing hair; it’s about losing confidence. And as someone who’s been through the trauma of losing my own hair without the advice or support I needed, I know firsthand how isolating and challenging this experience can be. As barbers, we are in a unique spot where our role isn’t only about cutting hair—it’s about building trust and supporting our clients through all stages of their hair journey. Tackling the topic of hair loss takes sensitivity, honesty, and a bit of tact. Here’s how we can handle this tricky conversation with care.

Create a Judgment-Free Space From the moment they sit in your chair, make sure they know that they are in a safe, judgementfree zone. Clients dealing with hair loss often feel embarrassed or self-conscious. Our job is to make them feel respected and understood. Even a simple “How’s it going?” or a compliment can break the ice and show them you’re genuinely there for them.

Start the Conversation Gently If your client brings up hair loss, let them take the lead. They will appreciate that you aren’t trying to push any opinions on them. If you have noticed hair thinning and they haven’t mentioned it, ease into it. For example, “Are you looking for any particular style to work with the way your hair’s been changing lately?” This acknowledges the change without making it a focal point or a “problem” to be fixed.

Reframe the Conversation with Positive Language When talking about hair thinning, I personally avoid words that might sound harsh or definitive, like “loss” or “balding.” Instead, I refer to it as “miniaturising” hair. I’ll say something like, “The hair shaft looks like it has miniaturised since our last cut,” which helps clients feel there’s an opportunity to do something about it before it progresses further. This small shift in language can create a more optimistic outlook for clients, making them feel more in control of the situation.

Share Options for Support and Solutions Let your client know that they have many options to slow down or adapt to thinning hair. As a barber, you can guide them through topical treatments —such as minoxidil or nourishing serums designed to stimulate hair health. It’s all about helping them feel in control. Discuss options like shorter cuts, which can minimise the look of thinning, or even texture techniques that can give a fuller appearance. Hair fibers can provide an instant thickening effect for special occasions or everyday use. For those seeking longer-term solutions, discuss options like scalp micropigmentation (tattooing the scalp for a fuller look) or hair transplants, which have come a long way in recent years.

And don’t forget to mention that lighter shades and bleaching can create texture and dimension, helping hair appear fuller and more voluminous. Offer Follow-Up Care For clients going through significant hair loss, an occasional check-in can show you care. Suggest they come in more frequently for trims or to maintain a new look. Building that continuity with clients can help them feel supported as they adjust.

Our role as barbers is about more than just a cut—it’s about being a confidant and a source of positive reinforcement. When we show empathy, we’re not just helping our clients manage hair loss; we’re building long-lasting relationships based on trust and support. Chris Foster The Profile Guy @theprofile.guy

A L L-I N T H E FA M I LY

Told by Hans Hollander, drawn from the stories of his father, Joop Hollander

The History of Hollander Herenkappers in a Nutshell The story of Hollander Herenkappers begins with my grandfather, Henk Hollander, who was born in 1909 in IJsselmuiden, the Netherlands. At the age of 14, he started as an apprentice barber in Kampen, later working for various employers. Around the age of 23, he decided to start his own business. In 1932, he rented a property at Oudestraat 156 in Kampen for 30 guilders a month and set up his first barbershop. His work mainly consisted of shaving, which at that time cost less than a dime. On his first day, he made just 3 guilders, barely enough to cover the rent for the first month. Despite the economic crisis, his clientele quickly grew.

From left to right: my grandmother and grandfather Narrie and Henk Hollander and my mother and father Elly and Joop Hollander. 82

My father Joop washing in a swing-arm sink. In 1976 a luxury product and an investment in making the barbershop more luxurious. 1982: Opening barbershop after renovation and also 50-year anniversary where congratulations are received. From left to right: Mayor Kleemans of the municipality of Kampen (standing), my grandparents Henk and Narrie Hollander and my father and mother Joop and Elly Hollander.

In 1933, Henk was diagnosed with tuberculosis in his knee, caused by an ice skating injury from years earlier. After an operation, in which the damaged knee was simply removed and his upper and lower leg fused together, he was left with a stiff leg 12 centimeters shorter than the other. Despite this handicap, he continued to work and, together with my grandmother Narrie, had five children, including my father, Joop, who was born in 1936. In May 1940, Germany invaded the Netherlands, marking the start of the war years—a time full of uncertainty. Henk also developed an eye condition that partially impaired his vision. Yet, he managed to keep his business running. His physical limitations turned out to be an advantage, making him uninteresting to the German

occupier, so he was not drafted for trench work. However, he was forced to temporarily hand over his barbershop to the occupier so that German barbers could cut the hair of their comrades. Thanks to his clientele, which included farmers, Henk’s family never suffered from hunger during the war. He braved harsh conditions to cut the hair of men in hiding—a risky endeavor—and always brought food back home. Shortly before the end of the war, the family had to evacuate their home due to military actions, such as the bombing of the bridge and the post office. They temporarily stayed with Henk’s sister. On April 17, 1945, when Kampen was liberated, they found their shop heavily damaged. The place was a mess, with all the windows

shattered and glass and roof tiles scattered across the street. They could walk over the fallen roof tiles from the street, through the large window frame, and into the shop. Despite limited resources, they managed to repair the building enough to secure it. Over time, the damage inside the shop was also repaired, and barbering could resume. In the years that followed, Henk modernized the shop with features like a marble barbering wall and neon lighting, a novelty at the time. He soon became known as the ‘Coiffeur d’Honneur’, attracting clients from service clubs like the Rotary. In 1950, my father Joop joined the business. He attended barber school in Zwolle and obtained the necessary certifications. In 1952, the barbershop underwent further 83

modernization, with the addition of ‘American chairs’ with single pedestals and a display cabinet for perfumes where customers previously kept their own cutting and shaving tools—which had become redundant as more clients began shaving at home. In the late 1950s, Henk was able to purchase the property, and in 1962, Joop became a co-owner. Henk eventually retired in 1969. Joop was quick to adapt to new trends in the barbering industry, such as hairpieces for men, which became popular in the late 1960s. He acquired a demonstration set and set up a private space for consultations, which proved to be a great success. Due to staffing issues, Joop decided to continue solo in 1976, adopting an appointment-only system. Hairpieces remained an important source of income, and he often worked long hours. In 1982, the barbershop celebrated its 50th anniversary in style, and in 1992, after facing health issues, my father handed the business over to me. Since then, I have also modernized and renovated the barbershop. It has now been 92 years since my grandfather Henk started the barbershop in 1932, and it remains in the family. The barbershop has a well-known name in Kampen, shaped by three generations, each leaving their own mark.

1993: My father and I. I take over the barbershop that was then called ‘Kapsalon Hollander’. On 10-11-2012, the name was renamed ‘De Mannenkapper’. 84

The very first cash register from 1932 has been preserved. First daily turnover then was 3 guilders and 20 cents.

Stronger Together Hans Hollander (52), a third-generation Dutch barber and owner of ‘de Mannenkapper’ in Kampen, proudly blends tradition with innovation. As a passionate entrepreneur, Hans shares his journey of balancing solo dedication with teamwork: “My father was a solo operator, someone who preferred to do everything himself. I have learned to approach things differently and work alongside my team to avoid exhausting my body.” In this candid interview, Hans talks about his vision for the barbering craft, the influence of his family legacy, and the importance of collaboration in an evolving industry. What an inspiring family history you have. How do you look back on it?

“My grandfather Henk started his business during the economic crisis of the early 20th century, which took a lot of courage, especially considering the many challenges he faced. He focused on the upper class and built a strong reputation —a commitment to quality that we still uphold to this day. The building my grandfather purchased has remained in the family ever since and is still the home of our business. I’m grateful for that! My grandfather lived above the shop, and my parents lived directly behind it.”

Is there a particular story from your grandfather’s time that stands out?

“What strikes me most is how my grandfather survived both the economic crisis of the ’30s and World War II. Despite setbacks, including his own health issues, he always managed to provide for his five children. He often had to start over, only to see his efforts crumble due to events way beyond his control. His resilience is something

I recognize in myself. I’ve always had a strong drive, spent years in competitive sports, and strive to give my best in everything I do.”

Did you know from an early age that you wanted to become a barber?

“My father was involved with Technical Development Club Zwolle and Surroundings. I often accompanied him and would get asked by other barbers, ‘Are you going to be a barber too?’ After earning my high school diploma, I did indeed choose the barbering path. It wasn’t a conscious decision but felt natural due to my bond with my father. I trained at the hairdressing day school in Amsterdam, gained experience in Zwolle, and at 21, took over the business from my father due to his shoulder issues.”

And then in 2012, you decided to let go of the family name?

“For many years, our business carried the family name ‘Hollander.’ However, this made the business less appealing for potential sale in the future. By changing the name to ‘De Mannenkapper,’ which 85

clearly resonated with our target audience, we modernized and professionalized the brand. It was a significant shift in our family’s history to remove that name from the building after 80 years. But it turned out to be the right move, enhancing our visibility and refreshing our image. What did my father think? He never stood in my way!”

Do you do things differently than your father?

“My father worked solo and preferred it that way. He put in incredibly long hours, which took a toll on his health. Due to shoulder issues, he had to stop at 57 but fortunately had good insurance. He’s now 88 and has enjoyed retirement for 30 years. What I especially learnt from him is that I wanted to take a different approach. I don’t want to exhaust my body. I choose to work with a team so that I’m not always on the floor myself. I also cater to a broader clientele than my father did.”

Why do customers keep coming back?

“It’s thanks to the total quality we offer. We set ourselves apart with luxury treatments and small extras, like applying cream to the neck after a shave and using a warm towel after every cut. Clients leave feeling fresh and well-groomed. Plus, we really listen to our clients—we don’t cut what we can, but what the client wants.”

Your father Joop introduced hairpiece treatments in 1967, which proved to be a success. Do you offer this in your shop?

“I did in the beginning, but eventually stopped. It was a challenging client base to work with. We helped people with hereditary hair loss who felt ashamed of their baldness. Over time, hairpieces needed replacing, which came at a cost. Clients often delayed this, making the piece look older. A new piece was fuller and shinier, but they wanted it to resemble the old one so it wouldn’t be noticeable. This led to anxious reactions, making the work less enjoyable for me.”

What changes have you seen in the industry over the years?

“I was on the segment board for barbers at our National Hairdressing Association, but sadly, that segment was discontinued. Our group was very active, but the association decided to merge the men’s and women’s sectors. To maintain a network for barbers, we created the National Barbers Collective (NMC). For several years, we held meetings, lectures, and demos, but participation dwindled as barbers became more soloistic, and it was eventually handed over to the National Hairdressing Association, where it faded out. BarberSociety has taken on that role, fulfilling the ongoing

We don’t cut what we can, but what the client wants 86

need for barbering attention. It’s essentially an improved version of the NMC.”

What are you focused on today?

“I’m still active in the members’ council of the National Hairdressing Association. We pushed for a Barber Competency Profile (BCP) to ensure barbering has a dedicated place and full training in vocational education. We’ve developed this BCP alongside the association, and it’s now being presented to the education sector to create a Qualification File (QF), outlining the necessary knowledge, skills, and competencies for barbers. We’re bringing back the specialized craft of barbering.”

What’s your outlook on the future of barbering?

“If the training is properly implemented, I’m optimistic. Right now, many barbers learn one technique and use it universally, but our craft is much broader. Barbers need to adapt to trends, like the return of longer hairstyles. Thankfully, with the BCP, we’re strengthening the education and standards for barbers. But there is a concern: money laundering and other criminal activities that some barbershops use as fronts. This worries me because it affects the reputation of the industry. Who will own these shops next? I’m afraid this could impact the new generation of barbers.”

Do you have any ambitions left in the field?

“I’m focused on personal growth. As a hobby diver, I’ve gained leadership experience as the chair of a diving club. Now, I’m part of the National Hairdressing Association’s council, and who

Third generation customer Sven van der Kaa. Cut by Hans Hollander, third generation of De Mannenkapper. Sven’s father and grandfather still get their hair done at the barbershop.

knows, maybe I’ll move into a board position someday. Eventually, I’d like to pass the barbershop to a successor. My children are choosing different paths, so it won’t be them. When the shop celebrates its 100th anniversary—in eight years, when I’m 60—that might be the perfect time to retire. Whether I can really stop? We’ll see!”

Any final advice for our readers?

“I encourage barbers to think about joining an association like a National Hairdressing Association, which works for the common good. Instead of just thinking, ‘What’s in it for me?’, think, ‘What’s in it for us?’ There are many developments in the barber industry, and by joining forces, you can achieve more —like the Barber Competency Profile, giving barbers their rightful place in education. Together, we have the power to make a difference. So, join a network!” 87

@brothers_men

Barbershops in Hong Kong, November 2024

@hairhousebyadamchan

C O LU M N C O R B O U W

How to Handle Complaints in a Barbershop: A Guide to Success Every customer that visits your shop not only expects just a perfect haircut but also an outstanding experience. However, even in the best barbershops, things might sometimes go wrong. A complaint is not a setback but an opportunity: a chance to show that your barbershop prioritizes professionalism, care, and attention. By handling complaints effectively and constructively, you can turn a negative experience into a strong customer relationship. Here are some practical steps to ensure every complaint gets the attention it deserves while building a solid reputation for your barbershop.

Cor Bouw is a business coach & consultant for Keune Haircosmetics, owner of Dutch Hair, and founder of the Barbershop De Praatkamer franchise and chair rental concept. With a background as an international educator, he began his entrepreneurial journey in 1993. For Cor, attention, experience, and education are the core values for success as both an entrepreneur and business coach.

Listen Carefully It all starts with listening. Allow the customer to explain what went wrong without interrupting. Show understanding and empathy; this makes the customer feel heard and taken seriously. This is the foundation for a constructive conversation and a potential solution.

Stay Calm and Professional A complaint is usually directed at the situation, not at you personally. Maintain calm and professional communication. Avoid defensive reactions so that the customer can see you’re willing to understand and improve the situation.

Offer a Genuine Apology An apology can go a long way, even for minor mistakes. A sincere apology shows that you take the complaint seriously and accept responsibility. It opens the door to reconciliation and recovery.

Provide an Immediate Solution Don’t delay; offer a suitable solution as soon as possible. This could be a complimentary touch-up, a discount, or another gesture to make it right for the customer. A proactive approach demonstrates your commitment to regaining their trust.

Learn from Feedback Complaints provide valuable insights. Discuss recurring issues with your team and find ways to prevent similar situations in the future. This way, feedback becomes an opportunity to enhance your service and customer experience.

Follow Up on the Outcome A quick follow-up can make a big difference. After resolving the issue, ask the customer if they are satisfied with the solution and thank them for their feedback. This shows that you value their opinion and are committed to continuous improvement. Conclusion Handling complaints is an opportunity to showcase your craftsmanship and customer focus. By listening, responding professionally, and taking swift action, you can turn a negative experience into a positive memory. This not only boosts customer satisfaction but also strengthens your barbershop’s reputation and growth. Cor Bouw @barbershopdepraatkamer

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