BarberSociety Magazine international Spring 2022 issue (in English)

FRAN ARANDA

ALWAYS FOLLOW THE PATH THAT MOTIVATES YOU THE MOST

THE FILM INDUSTRY, A JOB FOR YOU?

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER

EDDINE BELAID

I’M ON A LIFETIME JOURNEY OF LEARNING

BARBERS & WATCHES

TIPS FOR BUYING A QUALITY WATCH

EELCO KEUNE

WE WAKE UP IN THE MORNING FOR THE BARBER

4 12 6 16 46

EDITORIAL

A CENTURY OF LOYALTY TO BARBERS

Interview with Eelco Keune

PASSING ON KNOWLEDGE

Q&A with Fran Aranda

TRENDS

Brain on Academy (with Fran Aranda), Fresh Prince the Barber for WAHL Professional, Álvaro Torres de Castro, La Barbería de Oliver, Mercedes Paginton, Ángel Cruz, Jonathan Fisher, SHY+FLO (Shayna and Florian Knittel), Jose Urrutia

LIVING THE DREAM

Interview with Eddine Belaid

BARBERS & WATCHES: MAURICE LACROIX AIKON

Tips for buying the perfect quality watch!

PRODUCT NEWS

Lifestyle, Grooming, In Shop

BARBERS & THE CITY

Zurich

BARBER BABE

Interview with Pilar Zaragozá

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Interview with Bo van Lavieren

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER

Lights, Camera and Barbering

La Barbería de Oliver (ES)

THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO …

50 56 60 68 78 74 80 Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Writers Steven Walker, Gandor Bronkhorst Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas

Hair:

Photography: Juan Francisco Pagan @labarberiadeoliver

FRATERNITY EQUALITY, LIBERTY, EDITORIAL

This edition is being published in the weekend that we’re finally, after three years, once again able to hold our BarberSociety Live event in Amsterdam! Holding the event without any Covid-19 restrictions feels like a liberation. No more restrictions on carrying out our fantastic profession and enjoying our event. That feels like ‘freedom’ to us, but we are mindful that others in the world have no freedom at all. Terrible wars are raging, one of them on our own doorstep. That makes me appreciate the sense of freedom even more, and I can only hope that peace will soon return.

When I saw Salvador Oliver’s new collection, La Barbería de Oliver, I knew I had to put one of his collection images on the cover. This is how he explained it: Jorge, with his neat and aristocratic volume hairstyle, represents the French Revolution; the beginning of what made us all free and equal. Liberté, égalité, fraternité mean liberty, equality, fraternity. These words are as important today as ever. And brotherhood sums up how I feel about the world of barbering. Barbers sense a unique mutual bond, and that’s there for all to see at our event.

Brotherhood sums up how I feel about the world of barbering

I can’t wait to experience our 5th edition! At last, we can once again meet friends of the barbering profession: colleagues from home and abroad, the people behind the fantastic brands at our event, from distributors to trainees and everything in between. An event that brings together everyone who is passionate about barbering. Taking part makes you a better barber, but it also helps develop our craft and raise the quality of our profession. I’m grateful to all the brands in the industry that have supported us, but especially to our sponsor 1922 by J.M. Keune who have been there for us since the first edition in 2016. Big thanks also go to the other brands who are taking part again this year and to all the barbers from the Netherlands and abroad who are all part of our barbering family. 1922 by J.M. Keune are big fans of competitions and encourage everyone to join in, so they have once again agreed to sponsor this year’s battles, together with Wahl.

This year, BarberSociety Live is celebrating its fifth anniversary with 1922 by J.M. Keune as its main sponsor. But Keune Haircosmetics is also celebrating an anniversary of their own: their centenary! We spoke to co-owner Eelco Keune and were fascinated by what he had to say about their extraordinary family business. You can read all about it on page 6.

Behind the creative cover provided by a Spanish barber, this issue features two interviews with top Spanish barbers: Fran Aranda, who is also giving a show at BarberSociety Live, and Barber Babe Pilar Zaragozá. Both are incredibly talented barbers and share more or less the same message with our readers: always take the road that motivates you most and draw inspiration from everything you do.

This edition also presents the compelling and interesting story of the talented Swiss barber Eddine Belaid, who helped us with ‘Barbers & the City Zurich’. These barbershops offer impeccable quality in line with Switzerland’s tradition of excellence that keeps on ticking in the world-famous Swiss watches! So be sure to check out the article on page 50 for tips on how to buy the perfect watch, illustrated by the Maurice Lacroix AIKON series.

We hope you enjoy this spring edition of BarberSociety Magazine!

Marc van de Hare BarberSocietyFounder Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

PS We’ll naturally give a full report on BarberSociety Live in the summer edition. So stay tuned!

INTERVIEW WITH EELCO KEUNE

A CENTURY OF LOYALTY TO BARBERS

The family business Keune Haircosmetics has been one of BarberSociety Live’s sponsors since the very first event edition in 2016. In the early years, it was even an anonymous sponsor: the Keune men’s line was still under development at the time. This premium men’s line ‘1922 by J.M. Keune’ was launched at BarberSociety Live. The line – which even has its own unique fragrance – has been expanded over the years with outstanding products. BarberSociety Live is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year, thanks in part to sponsoring by 1922 by J.M. Keune. The people behind this fantastic brand are indisputably members of our barber family. That’s why Eelco Keune, co-owner of Keune Haircosmetics, was deservedly awarded a silver Barberbole pin at BSL 2019.

But Keune Haircosmetics is also celebrating an anniversary: its first hundred years! To this day, it is the world’s only family firm that has been developing, producing and distributing its own complete range of hair products for a century from its headquarters in Soest, the Netherlands. The company is headed by two CEOs: Eelco Keune and his father George Keune. That is special in itself, but their family story is no less impressive. We spoke to Eelco about his grandfather Jan, a former army barber, about 100 years of entrepreneurship, sustainability initiatives and making barbers’ lives easier.

How it all started

Eelco (48): “It all started in 1922 with my grandfather, Jan Keune, who had a drugstore at Oudezijds Voorburgwal in Amsterdam. He was a chemist, an army barber and, in 1923, the first European to make perm lotion. He took on three sales reps for the North, Center and South of the Netherlands. We now operate in almost 100 countries, all driven by my father’s commitment to continuing to grow and expand the company. So it started with the passion for making something that didn’t yet exist, for giving barbers what they need. A hundred years have since passed, but we see ourselves as ‘a start-up with a 100 years of experience’. And we’re still not resting on our laurels, even after all that time. My father’s favourite quote is: ‘it’s only the beginning’. To me, that’s remarkable coming from a man who is now 92 and is still working after a 70-year career.”

Ode to my grandfather

“Since we felt that barbers deserved their own line, we launched ‘1922 by J.M. Keune’. We’ve taken the time to include grooming, meaning not only hair care, but also beard care. We created the men’s line ‘1922 by J.M. Keune’ as an ode to my grandfather.”

Strong belief in entrepreneurship

About his support for BarberSociety, Eelco explains: “You took a risk with the event, but your belief in it was tangible. And we believe in entrepreneurs with good ideas. That is why we gave you our support. It’s quite something that you’re now celebrating your 5th anniversary. For the first few years, we were an anonymous sponsor whilst still working on our men’s care line 1922 by J.M. Keune. We didn’t need anything in return at the time. But we became so close that you asked us to help refugees on Lesbos, Greece, by setting up a barbershop in the refugee camp and giving them barber training. In no time at all, we’d arranged a container and turned it into a cool barbershop. It just felt right, and it’s great that we can build on each other.”

Jan Keune Keune building, Amsterdam

From TV production to hair care

We asked Eelco how he got into the business. “I grew up with the family business, so it couldn’t be closer to home. I always worked in the factory during my school holidays doing unpaid work on the assembly line and so on. My father thought that I was already getting enough, and of course he was right. I soon realised I’d have to earn my spurs first before taking my first step in the family business. And that’s exactly what I did once I’d finished studying. I ran an advertising agency/TV production company. I planned to do that for two years, but I liked ‘creating’ so much - not unlike a barber -

that I ended up doing it for seventeen years. I’ve produced Dutch TV projects such as Draadstaal and 6pack, which launched Dutch talents such as Sophie Hilbrand and Jeroen van Koningsbrugge. In fact, that formed the basis for what I do now with Keune. I was wondering what the best working conditions for a good presenter were. I answered that question myself: give them the space to do their job. In other words, make sure that everything around them is well organised, from the camera to insurance and the broadcast location. The way I see it, there are strong similarities with the barbering trade!”

Letting barbers focus on their core business

He continues: “You want barbers to do what they enjoy most: making people look good. We contribute to that by making a good product – one that got us where we are today – that barbers can use to do what they have to do. But there’s even more. I’ve noticed that it’s very beneficial if we take everything off barbers’ hands that isn’t directly related to barbering. Our partnership with salon automation tool Aimy helps barbers to get bookings and repeat appointments more efficiently, and the data we generate gives them a better understanding of the business.”

“We give our customers access to a Keune Quick Scan. This is custom software you can use to view all relevant salon data in real-time, such as average customer spending, your inventory, and how the business is doing compared to other barbers. And if there’s a downturn? We carry out an analysis to see what aspects of the barbershop you can improve to increase earnings. And then we offer ways of making it happen. Ultimately, everything is aimed at getting more out of your business. And we keep a close eye on that. We check that you are achieving the goals we set together. If not, we look into other ways of making sure you do. That makes us a true business partner. We don’t play the entrepreneur; we give advice and make suggestions. After all, who knows better how to run a barbershop than a barber? But what we do know is how your business compares to the market average.”

We wake up in the morning for the barber

Store Keune

Our own webshop

“Since barbers are our only source of income, everything we do centres on them. That’s the idea we wake up with every day. We’re not in the retail or wholesale channel or available everywhere online. If the barbers are successful, then so are we. Their success is our success. And that’s what motivates us to do whatever we can for them. We do that by giving them insights with the automation tool and making sure they get the earnings they are entitled to. The barbers are the ones who recommend our products to their customers. It’s unfair if a barber’s customer searches online and is directed to another business’ site. We help with this by offering them a free e-commerce platform to set up a professional online store. That enables the barber’s customers to order the products online via a QR code linked to the barbershop. The system recognises that the order comes from that particular barber, and we make sure they get the revenue just as if they had sold it through their own barbershop. The barber is supported with promotional marketing materials with a QR code to attract customers to online sales via the online store.” Eelco proudly explains – now he really thinks he sounds like Tel Sell – that even on his Keune website, the barber’s customer is directed to his own barbershop so that the revenue goes to his barber. “We’re the only brand that is cutting out the wholesale channel. We’re going head-to-head with all the online price fighters to close all those doors.”

Highlights

Asked about the highlights of 100 years of Keune, Eelco explains that the launches of the perm lotion and hair mousse are especially important. He adds: “More recently, we started a year ago making the most environmentally aware and best hair cosmetics line. This line is called So Pure and is due for launch next year. By continuing to innovate, we can establish a brand with the best performance and the smallest possible footprint. No other brand contributes as consciously to the environment in every way as we do. We use residual waste from the sugar beet as a nurturing element, half as much water, recycled plastic, and so on.”

This year, we applied for a B Corp certificate. That is the hallmark for entrepreneurs

who take people, the planet and society as their starting point. It is the most complete and stringent sustainability certificate there is. That aligns well with our previous activities and is something we prioritise. We make a conscious choice to manufacture in the Netherlands rather than low-wage countries, and we’ve been offering job opportunities for people with disabilities since 1995. We’re already working fully carbon-neutral, and with our 3,682 solar panels on the roof, we generate more electricity than we consume. Now it’s more about how else we can contribute. I am happier helping people in the Favelas in Brazil by training them to become barbers than setting up shop in another country. Making a difference by giving people the opportunity to earn their own living.”

Their success is our success

Keune Haircosmetics Soest - headquarters

100th Anniversary

The company will be celebrating its 100th anniversary throughout 2022. Eelco: “For our new packaging, we’ve started working with a rising star among artists. We’ve always done this ourselves up to now, so it’s an exciting move. This year we’re also launching a large-scale brand campaign to mark our 100th anniversary and are holding a big event in the summer to meet up again with all our partners from all over the world. I’m really looking forward to that.”

Loyalty to the barber

There’s no doubt that Eelco’s heart is in his family business. He says: “We’re the world’s only family firm that is still loyal to the barber after 100 years. It’s a privilege for me to continue that as the next generation. What could be more special? We think in generations, not in quarterly periods. There are also times when we do things that cost a great deal of money, such as closing the wholesale channel. We took that even further when corona struck, and no revenues were coming in. At that time, we also started a ‘Support Your Salon’ campaign to generate cash flow for all barbers in the Netherlands, not just the Keune barbers. We stood our ground, kept a cool head and stayed true to our mission even when the going got tough. Now we’re reaping the rewards: after two years of crisis, barbers tell us they know we’re there for them, even in times of need.”

“When my grandfather was interviewed by a trade journal, one of the questions was whether he would also sell his products and lotions elsewhere. ‘No,’ he said, ‘we only want to supply barbers.’ That literally made the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. This is where everything comes back together: the circle is complete after 100 years! Staying true to the barber, staying the coursethat is the common thread running through our family firm. And I hope to continue doing this with my father for a long time to come.”

George Keune (92 yrs) co-owner of Keune Haircosmetics

PASSING ON KNOWLEDGE

Fran Aranda has moved from success to success since he began his journey in barbering eight years ago. He believes the key to success lies in passing on knowledge to the next generation and showing your work to the world. Today he has his own academy in Seville, Spain, where he motivates trainee barbers and helps give them a promising future in the profession. He and his business partner Ismael de Mora served as jury members at the 2019 BarberSociety Battle and this year they will appear on stage at BarberSociety Live 2022.

Could you tell me a little about your background as a barber? How did you get into the business?

I trained as a barber in 2014 on a one-year course and after that, I took a range of seminars, learning under some of the best barbers and hairdressers in Europe. In 2016, I had the opportunity to start training new students, and teaching has been my passion ever since. I’ve had several barbershops in the meantime, and we still have Brain on Academy in Seville.

What attracted you to the profession?

What attracts me most is being able to turn someone’s mood around and change their look so quickly at the salon. I also love being able to change the perspective of so many barbers through training.

You now have an academy in Seville. What made you decide to launch it?

In 2020, we decided to create Brain on Academy after teaching around the whole of Spain, Europe and America. We were driven by our desire to have a centre with modern facilities where we can give longer courses.

What is the most challenging aspect of running your academy?

Fuelling motivation and giving our students a future in the profession.

You recently won the Andalusian ‘Best Men’s Commercial Collection’. How important is it for you to participate in competitions and how does it help you?

We are all very happy with the awards. Both Ismael and Alejandro, my colleagues, also won in the categories ‘Andalusian Barber of the Year’ and ‘Best Andalusian Barber under 25’. Awards always help make our day-to-day work more visible, and this time it’s incredible that the whole team has won.

We’ve noticed that Spanish barbers actively create collections. We have presented a number of these collections in BarberSociety Magazine and are impressed by their creativity and quality. Why do you think Spanish barbers are motivated to create collections and are so successful in this field?

Barbers and hairdressers here in Spain are beginning to understand how important it is to show their work off to the world. More and more training is being offered, which also helps to provide the motivation to create content.

Where do you draw your inspiration from for the collections?

I’m inspired a lot by movies and music. They’re my go-to artistic media for the inspiration I need to create any new style.

What do you see as the men’s hair trends for Spring/Summer 2022?

Natural textures like waves and curls are gaining popularity. But I think less structured cuts are going to be this season’s signature style.

Do you enjoy showing off your skills at barber events? And do you think it’s important to be an active part of the international barbering community?

I love sharing my knowledge with my colleagues; I love to teach others. At barber events, you also meet people you’ve only ever seen on social media and who you wouldn’t have met if it weren’t for these events. And yes, it’s important to be active at those events and in the wider community, so your customers and brands know about you.

What three items do you always have in your fridge? Water, hamburgers and eggs.

What is your most treasured possession My car (Alfa Romeo Giulia).

What are your plans for the future? Where do you see yourself five years from now? We want to continue growing the team and open ourselves up to other new areas, such as aesthetics.

Anything else you would like to share with our readers? Always follow the path that motivates you the most. That’s the most important thing for me day to day.

Always follow the path that motivates you the most

ACADEMY BRAIN ON

Collection: LV

Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora,

Alejandro Valencia, Gloria Sanchez (ES)

Photography: Manuel Perez Hidalgo

Styling: Francisco Aranda

Clothing: Zara Man @brainonacademy

Collection: LV Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora, Alejandro Valencia, Gloria Sanchez (ES)

Photography: Manuel Perez Hidalgo

Styling: Francisco Aranda

Clothing: Zara Man @brainonacademy

Collection: LV

Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora, Alejandro Valencia, Gloria Sanchez (ES)

Photography: Manuel Perez Hidalgo

Styling: Francisco Aranda

Clothing: Zara Man

@brainonacademy

Collection: LV Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora, Alejandro Valencia, Gloria Sanchez (ES)

Photography: Manuel Perez Hidalgo

Styling: Francisco Aranda

Clothing: Zara Man @brainonacademy

Collection: LV

Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora, Alejandro Valencia, Gloria Sanchez (ES)

Photography: Manuel Perez Hidalgo

Styling: Francisco Aranda

Clothing: Zara Man

@brainonacademy

Collection: Afro Hair Collection 2021/22 for Wahl Hair: Fresh Prince the Barber, WAHL Artistic Team (GE)

Photography: WAHL / @seritheking

Make-up: @labellebeautys

Models: @cest__will, @albixgram, @theycallmesleepyyy

Products: Wahl @freshprince.thebarber

FRESH PRINCE THE BARBER

GERMANY FRESH PRINCE THE BARBER

FOR

Collection: Afro Hair Collection 2021/22 for Wahl

Hair: Fresh Prince the Barber, WAHL Artistic Team (GE)

Photography: WAHL / @seritheking

Make-up: @labellebeautys

Models: @cest__will, @albixgram, @theycallmesleepyyy

Products: Wahl @freshprince.thebarber

Collection: Afro Hair Collection 2021/22 for Wahl

Hair: Fresh Prince the Barber, WAHL Artistic Team (GE)

Photography: WAHL / @seritheking

Make-up: @labellebeautys

Models: @cest__will, @albixgram, @theycallmesleepyyy

Products: Wahl

@freshprince.thebarber

TORRES ÁLVARO DE CASTRO

Collection: Dystopia

Hair: Álvaro Torres de Castro (ES)

Photography: Rodrigo García López

Makeup: Zoraida Ayovi Balon

Styling: Laura García Pola

Models: Borja Maquieira Buceta, Ignacio Martin Franco, Jesús Collado Sanz, Iyan Núñez García

Video: Anel Reyes Saldanha

@lacarniceriabarberia

Collection: Dystopia

Hair: Álvaro Torres de Castro (ES)

Photography: Rodrigo García López

Makeup: Zoraida Ayovi Balon

Styling: Laura García Pola

Models: Borja Maquieira Buceta, Ignacio Martin Franco, Jesús Collado Sanz, Iyan Núñez García

Video: Anel Reyes Saldanha @lacarniceriabarberia

Collection: Dystopia

Hair: Álvaro Torres de Castro (ES)

Photography: Rodrigo García López

Makeup: Zoraida Ayovi Balon

Styling: Laura García Pola

Models: Borja Maquieira Buceta, Ignacio Martin Franco, Jesús Collado Sanz, Iyan Núñez García

Video: Anel Reyes Saldanha

@lacarniceriabarberia

Collection: Dystopia

Hair: Álvaro Torres de Castro (ES)

Photography: Rodrigo García López

Makeup: Zoraida Ayovi Balon

Styling: Laura García Pola

Models: Borja Maquieira Buceta, Ignacio Martin Franco, Jesús Collado Sanz, Iyan Núñez García

Video: Anel Reyes Saldanha

@lacarniceriabarberia

The Making of Dystopia

DE OLIVER LA BARBERÍA SPAIN

Collection: Égalité

Hair: La Barbería de Oliver (ES)

Hair Assistant: Monica Moreno

Photography: Juan Francisco Pagan

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Monica Moreno

Styling: Salvador Oliver

Realism Artist: Raquel Moreno

Spontaneous

@labarberiadeoliver

Collection: Égalité

Hair: La Barbería de Oliver (ES)

Hair Assistant: Monica Moreno

Photography: Juan Francisco Pagan

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Monica Moreno

Styling: Salvador Oliver

Spontaneous Realism Artist: Raquel Moreno

@labarberiadeoliver

UNITED KINGDOM

MERCEDES PAGINTON

Collection: Grey Society

Hair: Mercedes Paginton (UK)

Photography: Liam Oakes

Models: Ray Keith, David Fletcher @mercedespaginton

Collection: Grey Society

Hair: Mercedes Paginton (UK)

Photography: Liam Oakes

Models: Ray Keith, David Fletcher @mercedespaginton

SPAIN

ÁNGEL CRUZ

Collection: Silence

Hair: Ángel Cruz (ES)

Hair Assistant: Yolanda Carril

Photography: Luis Lorenzo

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Miriam González

Styling: Jack&jones

Models: Diego Hernández, Álvaro Iglesias, Miguel Cristeto

Products: OBP

@la_barberiadeangel

Collection: Silence

Hair: Ángel Cruz (ES)

Hair Assistant: Yolanda Carril

Photography: Luis Lorenzo

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Miriam González

Styling: Jack&jones

Models: Diego Hernández, Álvaro Iglesias, Miguel Cristeto

Products: OBP

@la_barberiadeangel

Collection: Silence

Hair: Ángel Cruz (ES)

Hair Assistant: Yolanda Carril

Photography: Luis Lorenzo

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Miriam González

Styling: Jack&jones Models: Diego Hernández, Álvaro Iglesias, Miguel Cristeto

Products: OBP

@la_barberiadeangel

Collection: Silence

Hair: Ángel Cruz (ES)

Hair Assistant: Yolanda Carril

Photography: Luis Lorenzo

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Miriam González

Styling: Jack&jones

Models: Diego Hernández, Álvaro Iglesias, Miguel Cristeto

Products: OBP

@la_barberiadeangel

UNITED KINGDOM

JONATHAN FISHER

Collection: Homme

Hair: Jonathan Fisher, Palmer Fisher London (UK)

Photography: Katherine Boyle

Makeup: Oliva Moss

@jonathanfisherhair @palmerfisherlondon

Collection: Homme

Hair: Jonathan Fisher, Palmer Fisher London (UK)

Photography: Katherine Boyle

Makeup: Oliva Moss

@jonathanfisherhair

@palmerfisherlondon

Collection: Homme

Hair: Jonathan Fisher, Palmer Fisher London (UK)

Photography: Katherine Boyle

Makeup: Oliva Moss

@jonathanfisherhair @palmerfisherlondon

Collection: Homme

Hair: Jonathan Fisher, Palmer Fisher London (UK)

Photography: Katherine Boyle

Makeup: Oliva Moss

@jonathanfisherhair

@palmerfisherlondon

Collection: Homme

Hair: Jonathan Fisher, Palmer Fisher London (UK)

Photography: Katherine Boyle

Makeup: Oliva Moss

@jonathanfisherhair @palmerfisherlondon

Collection: Zymon Hair: SHY+FLO (CH)

Collection: Zymon Hair: SHY+FLO (CH)

Art Directors: Shayna and Florian Knittel Photography: KO Photography

Makeup: Jasmin Berger

Styling: Edgar Balseca

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

@shyandflo

Collection: Zymon

Hair: SHY+FLO (CH)

Art Directors: Shayna and Florian Knittel

Photography: KO Photography

Makeup: Jasmin Berger

Styling: Edgar Balseca

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

@shyandflo

JOSE URRUTIA

Collection: Travel Hair: Jose Urrutia (ES)

Hair Assistants: Karmen Ramírez, Verónica Calpa, Alazne González, Belén Naranjo

Photography: Jose Urrutia

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Anabel Larrauri

Styling: Candy Mott

Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia

Collection: Travel Hair: Jose Urrutia (ES)

Hair Assistants: Karmen Ramírez, Verónica Calpa, Alazne González, Belén Naranjo

Photography: Jose Urrutia

Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

Makeup: Anabel Larrauri

Styling: Candy Mott

Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia

I’m on a lifetime journey of learning

LIVING THE DREAM

Eddine Belaid has had a passion for barbering since childhood. Being a barber has been his dream job for as long as he can remember. He followed his dream and developed his skills studying at leading barbering academies in Berlin, London and Rotterdam. He opened Zurich’s first genuine barbershop in 2008. Today he has three barbershops at prime locations in the Zurich city centre.

As the founder of the barbering school Barber Schule Schweiz in 2009, he has shared his knowledge with more than 500 up-and-coming barbers from across Europe. His vision is unwavering: to provide each and every client with first-class, tailor-made service.

The journey of a lifetime

Eddine Belaid was born and raised as the eldest of six children in Nattheim, a small town in Germany. Even when he was a child, he was fascinated by barbering and was always observing people’s hairstyles. After graduating from high school, he decided to follow his dream and embark on a journey to the top of the barbering world. “My journey began in 1997. The first step was to move to Berlin to receive training from Udo Walz,

who is one of Germany’s most famous hairdressers. After that I went to the UK to study at the Sid Sottung Academy in Nottingham and the London School of Barbering. I’ve also attended many courses at the Sassoon Academy in London and at Schorem Academy in Rotterdam. I still take five or six courses a year. So I’m really on a lifetime journey of learning!”

He is convinced of the merits of traditional training to gain

a comprehensive set of skills and competences. Eddine explains:

“It’s important to gain an in-depth understanding of structures and shapes. You have to really understand the materials. It’s like working with wood. You’ve got to understand the material. So you can either make a normal table or a table with secret drawers. My choice was to go really deep into the profession. To really learn about head shapes, contours, bone structures and to understand different types

of hair. It’s not enough to watch videos and master five cuts. It’s very important to learn about all the different aspects of this business. Only then will you be able to create outstanding work.”

Switzerland’s first barbershop

Eddine decided to follow his enterprising spirit and put his diverse set of skills to work by opening his own business. He founded TheBarber.ch in 2008 and it took off from day one. “I opened TheBarber.ch in 2008. We were the first classic barbershop in Switzerland. There wasn’t a concept like mine at that time; you only had some Turkish and Italian guys and a couple of Swiss barbers giving quick cuts and shaves. I wanted to create something special. My vision was to give clients an environment in which they would receive the same quality and experience as at a women’s hairdressing salon.”

Non-stop growth

TheBarber.ch caught on immediately and has been growing ever since. “For the next five years we remained the only barbershop in Switzerland. We grew from day one, gaining a hundred new clients every year for the first six years. We’ve continued to grow every year since our establishment, even during the pandemic.”

An air of distinction

Eddine has aimed to create a distinctive ambience with impeccable service and products at its heart. “We are located in the business district. That’s why

I created a location for these urban professionals to give them an incomparable experience like you receive at Truefitt & Hill and other well-known English brands. I envisioned something equally impeccable. That’s why we set up a shop where you find everything for the needs of men – shaving tools, shaving creams and experienced staff who know how

Learn about all the aspects of this business to create outstanding work

to work with these tools and can teach clients how to take care of their hair at home,” says Eddine.

Signature service, customised cuts

TheBarber.ch is all about tailormade service and providing men with styles that suit both their bone structure and personality. Eddine explains that they don’t follow trends, but rather create fashionable looks in step with the times. “We have maybe one or two fades a day. The rest are very classic haircuts. Our philosophy is to follow certain steps during the consultation and service in order to realise an elegant and traditional look, which is still fashionable but tailored to the client’s needs. We look very closely at what the client needs. We don’t look only for trends or what comes up, fades or no fades. If somebody comes in and says

he wants a high fade, we check whether it matches his bone structure. And we might recommend a low fade instead or advise him that a completely different look would be better. This is crucially important: to customise the hairstyle like a nice suit. 99% Of our clients are happy for us to give them advice. So my signature cut means working out with the client what is best for him. A tailor-made look that fits him to a tee.”

Unforgettable experiences

Eddine has had many highpoints throughout his career spanning more than 25 years. He isn’t interested in awards but prefers to venture out of the box to have once-in-a-lifetime experiences. “One of my career’s highlights was when I worked next to Oscar winner Xavier Koller as a hand double and a trainer for the actors who had to act as barbers for the film Dällebach Kari. He gave an interview at my salon in connection with the film. He asked if I would train the actors and so I went to the studio where they had built a barbershop. I was asked to shave the actors on camera with twenty people around. It was such a crazy experience and I never thought something like that would happen. A once-in-a-lifetime experience!”

Doing our part for the planet

TheBarber.ch makes sustainability a top priority. “We are big fans of sustainability. We switched to eco-friendly energy in 2008. We produce our own products in Switzerland with 96 natural ingredients and recyclable packaging. It’s all about looking beyond just cutting hair to assess every aspect of your business. That’s when you arrive at matters that are also important, such as sustainability,” he explains.

Loving every day

Eddine says he still enjoys his work as much as ever. “I still work full time in the stores and enjoy every minute of it. While I don’t have much space for new clients,

I do take on new clients because I enjoy giving them a totally new experience of barbering. It’s what makes me happy. I also collaborate with musicians and other people in the artistic world to create images for them for their next album or whatever and this is really fun for me – I love it.”

No two days are the same and that makes it so enjoyable. “Every day is enjoyable for me. I open up the door in the morning and there’s a phone call from Dyson saying I’m an ambassador or Wahl to tell me I’m now a Wahl ambassador. I’m asked from time to time to go to a hotel for a client - we work on royals sometimes. They ask us because they know we deliver dependable quality. This is what makes my work so enjoyable: that people see what we do and appreciate it. They know they can send anybody to us and be sure they will be happy when they leave.”

©André Macedo

BARBERS WATCHES

ICON ON THE WRIST

Buying the perfect watch can feel like dancing in the dark. Take our hand and be guided into this magical world, illustrated by the Maurice

Barbers and watches, a natural combination

For every barber, style is essential. Style in the broadest sense of the word. The presentation, the kindness of the interaction with clients, and of course having an inspiring look. A client comes into the barber shop to look better and expects his barber to know what looks good. Barbers also work with their hands – they really know their craft. It’s these two deeply integrated aspects that make barbers and watches such a natural combination. Clients have lots of opportunities to see the hands and wrists of the person cutting their hair – and see what’s on that wrist. A watch is a style statement and a sign of appreciation of real craftsmanship at the same time.

Dancing

Buying a watch can feel like dancing in the dark. So, where to start? It’s a good thing to appreciate watches on three main criteria. Value for money,

Lacroix AIKON.

Freerunning specialist @simonnogueira wearing Maurice Lacroix AIKON Urban Tribe AI6008-SS009-3301

brand value and design. And to illustrate why these criteria are so important, we’ll use the brand new AIKON collection of renowned Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix.

To start with the first criterion: value for money is quite hard to pin down. Especially if you’re just starting in the business. The first thing to look out for are the words ‘Swiss Made’ on the dial. Over the centuries, to the credit of the innovative spirit and perfectionism of its watchmakers, Switzerland has earned a one-ofa-kind reputation. This is not a direct quality seal, but it does mean that most (if not all) of the watch is made in Switzerland, which has a very strong name to uphold in the watch industry. Swiss Made therefore is quite a good guarantee for a certain quality. And talking about guarantees, it is always a good idea to check the factory guarantee you’ll get with a watch. This might seem an afterthought,

but in the watch business it means a lot more. If a watch company gives a guarantee of a couple of years, this shows they’re quite serious about their quality checks. Maurice Lacroix obviously knows all about this, and so they offer two years of guarantee on their watches. This is a very serious sign of confidence and should be regarded as a sign of good quality as well. And indeed, the AIKON is made in Switzerland by a company that has made quite a name for itself in its more than forty years of existence.

Brand values

Mentioning the brand, it is quite interesting to dive deeper into the second of our three main criteria: brand values. This is the broadest of all criteria and quite a hard nut to crack. Any brand will say it offers great quality and craftsmanship. But finding out the truth needs some background searching. Age is always a good sign of how well established a brand is and how timeless their

values are. In this case, Maurice Lacroix proves exactly that: having made watches for over forty years, they established themselves as a proven watchmaker with a great track record. Maurice Lacroix is committed to uphold this tradition and high standard of watchmaking craftsmanship. The watches are manufactured in the company’s own state-ofthe-art workshops in Saignelégier. This village is located in the Jura mountains, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking. Here, all factors critical to the successful production of excellent watches with high perceived value converge: watchmaking know-how, skilled craftsmanship, industrial expertise, technological capability, and, not least, a pronounced sense of quality.

It must also be noted that the roots of the company go even deeper. When Desco von Schulthess Company, an internationally operating company, launched its first watch models under the name Maurice Lacroix in 1975, it was able to draw on its long experience and know-how in this industry.

Founded in 1889 in Zürich, the company was, since 1946, the link between well-known Swiss watch brands and the rest of the world. In the early 1960s, the parent company of Maurice Lacroix purchased a watch assembly factory in Saignelégier. Thanks to its know-how gained from decades of building high-quality watches, it was only a small step for Desco von Schulthess to create its own brand, Maurice Lacroix. Since then, Maurice Lacroix’s journey has been marked by important milestones. The culture of the company is indeed to offer affordable watches, with iconic design and high perceived value.

Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic AI6008-SS0004-304-PR

Rebirth

The AIKON was first introduced in 2016, although its roots go a lot deeper. The AIKON Collection is a rebirth of the Calypso line that was introduced in 1990. While the main feature inspired by the Calypso is its distinct bezel (which is the steel rim around the glass), the AIKON’s recall of an important collection in the brand’s legacy goes way beyond the design. They are real luxury watches, although they’re still relatively affordable. A great new addition to the collection are the brand new AIKON #tide watches. This collection consists of ten different versions and connects to a slightly younger, more urban target group. And starting at 700 euros, the prices are even more interesting.

Improving the world by design

Having covered the aspect of brand value, it is quite easy to jump to a closely related third criterion: design. Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder, but good designers know how to make something that is striking and timeless at the same time. With the AIKON #tide, Maurice Lacroix unveils the brightest, funkiest range of watches, offered in an array of eye-popping colours.

Maurice Lacroix AIKON #tide AI2008-50050-300-0

Maurice Lacroix AIKON Urban Tribe AI6008-SS009-3301

AIKON #tide is helping to make the oceans a little bit cleaner

The AIKON #tide is made to be noticed. And, best of all, the AIKON #tide is helping to make the oceans a little bit cleaner. This is done with a revolutionary technology that converts discarded plastic waste into Swiss quality watches. The AIKON #tide shares the same attributes as other members of the AIKON family, but is formed of oceanbound upcycled plastic combined with fibreglass. This composite material is twice as hard as standard plastic, five times more resistant and has a carbon footprint that is six times less than for example PET. The bezel, case, case back, crown, end-piece and buckle on this new model are all made from this composite material. It takes seventeen bottles to make one watch. The case measures 40 mm in diameter, meaning it has a decent size which will stand out without being too large. For an additional quotient of glamour, several versions are available with diamond-set

indexes. The AIKON #tide has an impressive water resistance of a hundred meters. The model also has an Easy Strap Exchange system, allowing the wearer to swap the strap for an alternative without the need for tools.

Maori tribe engravement

One more very interesting new addition to the AIKON collection is the URBAN TRIBE. This very special edition has a Maori tribe engraved in the case, making the watch truly very special. At the heart of the URBAN TRIBE is a beautifully crafted automatic movement. The AIKON #tide is powered by a quartz movement. This means it runs on a battery, which is both accurate and convenient. Maurice Lacroix has conceived the AIKON #tide for a new generation who value sustainability, affordability and, of course, notable style.

If this doesn’t tell you much about real brand values and well thought-out design, we don’t know what does.

1 AIKON Automatic Date 42mm

AI6008-SS002-430-1: € 1.800

2 AIKON 42mm

AI6008-SS002-230-1: € 1.800

3 AIKON Automatic Manufacture Master Grand Date Set

AI6118-SS00E-430-C: € 7.550

4 AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium AI6038-TT032-330-1: € 3.950

AIKON #tide 40mm Yellow/Black

AIKON 42mm

AIKON 42mm

€ 1.640

DAPPER DAN GOLD HAIR TONIC & AFTER SHAVE

Traditional 1940s American style hair tonic and aftershave. With a powdery-sweet, spicy-woody scent of oranges, sandalwood and musk. The Dapper Dan Hair Tonic GOLD relaxes hair and scalp with olive oil and sage extract. The Dapper Dan After Shave GOLD refreshes and cares for the skin after shaving with glycerine, allantoin and menthol.

More information

www.PomadeShop.com

BEVIRO SEA SALT TEXTURISING SPRAY

Gives hair a strong hold and keeps it perfectly in shape, while it remains easy to comb. Sea salt spray creates a matte finish and does not stick. Thanks to its natural formula with beneficial oils, it is not aggressive and does not dry out the scalp. Available in Extreme hold with 9% sea salt and Medium hold with 5% sea salt. For use in the barbershop there is a special 500ml version.

More information

www.intershave.com

WAHL BARBER DRYER

Designed specifically for the needs of barbers, the new BARBER DRYER from WAHL features a cool retro chrome design and offers a powerful performance. The durable dryer is equipped with a powerful 2200-watt AC motor which dries hair particularly quickly. It has two speed and three heating settings, as well as a separate cold button. Thanks to its cutting-edge ion technology and tourmaline grill, the hair is dried faster. Furthermore, the BARBER DRYER is especially compact and pleasant to handle. Including two click-nozzles.

More information

www.wahl-professional.com

NEW NEW

ANDIS© RESURGE™ SHAVER

In the wake of ANDIS’s global re-brand that focusses on empowering you, the creator, a new generation of ANDIS tools begins with the launch of the reSURGE™ Shaver. Contemporary in design, supremely ergonomic and functionally superior, dual independent gold titanium hypoallergenic foils, with an integrated long hair trimmer, reduces the amount of pre-trimming before shaving. With an easy pivot head that hugs the unique contours of the face, its high-speed rotary motor powers at 9,900 strokes per minute to glide effortlessly through wet or dry hair. With a Lithium-ion battery delivering 60 minutes of run time on a single charge, a charging adapter, a cleaning brush and a Smart LED 3-bar battery status indicator, the reSURGE™ Shaver delivers unrivalled precision.

More information

www.andis.com

BARBERS & THE CITY

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting the Swiss capital. Zurich-based barber Eddine Belaid helped us create this edition’s Barbers & The City. Check out Zurich’s amazing barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting their city.

The Barbershop

Alfred-Escherstrasse 23

8002 Zürich

+41 (0)43 317 11 31

@thebarbershop.ch www.traditional-zuerich.ch

Owner Eddine Belaid, who is featured in this issue, shares his vision for The Barbershop: “The vision for our shop is to create a welcoming space for professional stylists and clients who are looking for elegance and quality. Our team is well trained in men’s barbering and grooming and has developed strong communication skills. The barbers themselves are the key to our success. I’m proud to work alongside such incredible talents: instructors from across Europe, international artists and barbers based in Zurich. They are also so passionate about their work. Our three barber shops aim to

create a world for gentlemen in the heart of Zurich, offering a chic look and a unique experience.”

“We’ve been turning the vision into reality since 2008 by making our own products in Switzerland focusing on natural resources. Today our products are 96% organic/natural and our goal for the near future is to develop completely sustainable and eco-friendly products for the market based on new energy resources such as solar panels and rainwater to reduce waste to the minimum.”

OUR HOTSPOTS

Kronenhalle, restaurant and bar Rämistrasse 4

8001 Zürich

Restaurant: +41 44 262 99 00

Bar: +41 44 262 99 11 www.kronenhalle.com, @kronenhalle

The Kronenhalle is a very famous restaurant and bar that opened in the early 1920s. It enjoys an outstanding location, surrounded by the Opernhaus, Schauspielerhaus and Kunsthaus. It has a distinctive style and ambience and provides guests with an exceptional experience.

My favourite dish is the KalbsfiletGeschnetzelte Kronenhalle, which is a thinly sliced veal tenderloin served with Rösti. It’s a delicious traditional Swiss dish that I highly recommend!

©André Macedo

Kreuzbuhlstrasse

8032 Zürich

@brunoemoritz

Bruno and Moritz owners are exceptional stylists who give an incredible experience to every costumer of their brand, including myself. They combine Swiss style and Italian design to create a unique and fantastic brand.

Bruno e Moritz

42

Finest Barbers Zürich

Stampfenbachstrasse 14

8001 Zürich

+41 44 252 6191

www.finest-barbers.com

@finest.barbers.official

Men have been getting neat wet shaves, haircuts and beard trims at Finest Barbers Zurich since 1950. In 2017, Engels Enmanuel Rodriguez seized the opportunity to take over this historic barber shop. Not much has changed since then. Finest Barbers Zurich - a place to switch off and relax.

Engels says: “We only renewed what needed to be renewed. For example, the coffee machine. It was important for us to keep the charm and the feeling of the good old days. The spirit of this wonderful place is the same as it was 70 years ago. Our customers and our employees really appreciate that.”

BARBERS & THE CITY

The only disadvantage of this old, nice, small barbershop is that only three customers can be served at the same time. This leads to an average waiting time of two weeks for an appointment. But the wait is worth it…

ONZE HOTSPOTS

Steakhouse Old Town Zürich

Niederdorfstrasse 19

8001 Zürich

+41 43 321 84 84

www.steakhouse-oldtown.ch

The Old Town Steakhouse is a vibrant and informal eatery offering selection of lunch menus and a full menu from 4pm. It is an excellent classic steakhouse and that is open all day from 7am to midnight.

Les halles Zürich

Pfingstweidstrasse 6

8005 Zürich

+41 44 273 11 25

www.les-halles.ch

@leshalleszurich

Great interior, fine menu, Moules (mussels) & Frites is a must!

The Old Crow Bar

Schwanengasse 4

8001 Zürich

+41 43 233 53 35

www.oldcrow.ch

@old_crow_zh

The Old Crow Bar offers a choice of more than 1,600 spirits with a special eye mark on whiskies. In addition to the classic cocktails expertly prepared to fulfil the wishes and the tastes of every client, they also serve some rare or even forgotten mixtures.

©Goran Bencun

Inordertoswitchofffrom everydaylifeasabarber,Engels RodriguezDJsinthebestclubs inSwitzerland.Thesearetwo oftheclubswhereheperforms:

Kaufleuten

Pelikanplatz 18

8001 Zürich

+41 44 225 33 22

www.kaufleuten.ch/klub

@kaufleutenclub

Mascotte

Theaterstrasse 10

8001 Zürich

+41 44 260 15 80

www.mascotte.ch

@mascotte_zurich

© Juampi Garcia

Memomen Barberclub

Bleicherweg 30

8002 Zürich

+41 43 817 67 19

www.Memomen.ch

@memomen_barberclub

Memomen Barber Club has been in Zurich for 20 years. Five years ago, barbershop Manager Salvatore Leocata came to Switzerland and was given the opportunity by owner Mehmet Sen to bring a new concept to the Barber Club. The talented and gifted barber from Sicily grabbed the opportunity and established a unique concept in Zurich. They offer gentlemen a first-class barbering experience with a combination of innovative methods and traditional services in a relaxed atmosphere.

BARBERS & THE CITY

The flair and atmosphere in the salon are reminiscent of an old Italian classic in black and white. Memomen Barber Club is one of the trendiest addresses in Zurich and lives up to the image of the stylish gentleman. Barber Tina, one of the founding members of the Barber Angels Brotherhood, has been an integral part of the Memomen Barber Club crew since the end of 2021.

ONZE HOTSPOTS

Cantinetta Antinori

Augustinergasse 25

8001 Zürich

+41 44 211 72 10 www.bindella.ch

Cantinetta Antinori is the best Italian restaurant on the trendiest street in town.

Manuel`s Bar and cigarlounge

Löwenstrasse 12

8001 Zürich

+41 44 545 21 40 www.manuels.ch

Manuel’s Bar and cigar lounge in Cuban style. The bartender makes great cocktails.

Loro Piana

Bahnhofstrasse 26

8001 Zürich

ch.loropiana.com/ en/stores/city/zurich

A wonderful boutique offering a wide selection of the highestquality Italian-style menswear.

©Stefan Emch

PILAR ZARAGOZÁ BARBER BABE

Make sure whatever you do inspires you

Pilar Zaragozá runs two men’s hairdressing salons, branded Eos | Men, in Valencia. As someone who is in tune with her emotions, she is continuously inspired by the social situations she finds herself in and how they affect her. “Even if it’s by a day at the beach with a glass of wine in hand. I like it when something makes my hair stand on end.”

Running two salons – each inside a branch of Spain’s prestigious El Corte Inglés department store chain – is a demanding job that requires her to multi-task and tap into a diverse set of skills and competences. But the part of her job that she loves most is also the one that takes up most of her energy: managing her teams.

The weaker sex

Sealing her fate

But to go back to how it all started out, Pilar has been a hard worker from early on. “I wanted to be a hairdresser since I was very young. I got to work at an early age because of my family’s circumstances. They needed a manicurist in a barbershop and, in return, they taught me how to cut hair. Later on, I wanted to move into something more to do with women, but it was too late. My fate as a men’s hairdresser had already been sealed.” What Pilar loves about the work is how practical it is. “I love working with my hands, putting things together, taking them apart, creating things and so on. My obsession with hair is in my blood. I even like animals with long hair!”

A vision with thought and care

Pilar’s salons serve as a forum where she can make her vision of men’s hairdressing come to life. “Our concept has always been about breaking away from the conservative, but still with a lot of thought and care put into it… nothing revolutionary, but we still evolve with the times. Our salons work to a tradition that has never gone out of fashion.” She likens her practice to a sturdy ship, which she has steered on a course marked by continuous training. A timeless endeavour that she has reinvented over and over again.

Looking to the rest of 2022, Pilar sees the trend in men’s hairstyles being dominated by mid-length hair. “Unkempt on younger people, but more natural on middle-aged men,” as she describes. And surely, in the 21st century, all those men are happy to have their cut by a woman, right? “To this day I still come across men who don’t want to have their hair cut by a woman or even come to a place run by a woman. And we try to respond to that, but keeping the references to women to a minimum. We even play along and say, ‘we are the weaker sex, after all’.”

Valuing what you do

Her work also involves promoting the profession in her native country. “In Spain, we are working hard from the ground up on raising awareness of the profession and encouraging people to value it. Every day our clients tell us how much value we bring to the work. It doesn’t matter whether a job is perceived as skilled or not, make sure whatever you do inspires you.

©Miguel Serrano

Draw ideas from it. Do something honest and dignifying with it, not by competing.”

A pioneer in sustainability

Since sustainability is more in focus, we wanted to know what part this plays in Pilar’s business. “Our salons are located in El Corte Inglés department stores. They want to be a pioneer in this field, and we’re happy to

help them do that. We are recycling more and more, although now there’s a bit of a grey area when it comes to recycling anything that comes into contact with people or not at the moment. We can’t wait to get back to normal.” And what are Pilar’s plans when things do get back to normal? “I am thinking about bringing the EOS Men concept in other countries.”

Bringing the team together Pilar has made it to the finals of the International Visionary Award in the Men’s category twice. But how important is it for her to take part in these competitions? Does it help her in any way?

“For many, it’s only to show off, but I do it to involve my clients. The whole process is very important for my teams too. It motivates them and brings them together, it gets people talking about us and it’s an opportunity to let our imagination run wild. Getting an award for that is so important, because a lack of inspiration makes you doubt yourself.”

heren

Finalist International Visionary Award 2021, categorie

Collectie: Respira

Haar: Pilar Zaragozá and Leticia Martínez –EOS | MEN

Fotografie: David Arnal

Makeup: EOS | MEN

Styling: Eunnis Mesa

Ontwerper: Mariana Domínguez

Model: Alfredo

Producten: American Crew @srta.pili_eos @srta_letii @eos__men

FINALIST INTERNATIONAL VISIONARY AWARD 2021, MEN CATEGORY

Collection: Alúmina

Hair: Pilar Zaragozá and Leticia MartínezEOS | MEN (ES)

Photography: David Arnal

Makeup: EOS MEN

Styling: EOS MEN

Models: Alfredo, Alberto, Jorge, Oscar

Products: American Crew @srta.pili_eos @srta_letii @eos__men

FINALIST AIPP AWARDS 2020/2021, MEN CATEGORY

Collection: Alúmina

Hair: Pilar Zaragozá and Leticia MartínezEOS | MEN (ES)

Photography: David Arnal

Makeup: EOS MEN

Styling: EOS MEN

Models: Alfredo, Alberto, Jorge, Oscar

Products: American Crew

@srta.pili_eos @srta_letii @eos__men

FINALIST AIPP AWARDS 2020/2021, MEN CATEGORY

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERE ALL ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERE

Bo van Lavieren moved to the centre of Utrecht, the Netherlands, in the spring of 2021. Now, with Bo Barbers, he is following in the footsteps of his grandmother, father and uncle, who all worked (or still work) in barbering. He learned the trade from his father, but Bo looks ahead and at what his customers like: “You come here for a chat as well.”

Bo, you’re the third generation in the business, so how did it all begin?

“It began with my grandmother. She started cutting people’s hair when she was eighteen, simply because she liked the idea of it. She also wanted to be her own boss. And that’s what she did: started her own business at the tender age of 22. The great thing is that my grandmother is 78 now, and she’s still giving haircuts!”

What a story! What kind of business was that?

“A unisex salon. She started at home, and that grew into a full-fledged hairdresser’s. And guess what? It’s still there! My grandmother started with a single barber’s chair, but it wasn’t long before that wasn’t enough… That was never going to work, so my grandmother said: “You know what, I’ll just start another salon.”

How did things go with your uncle and father?

“They’ve started several barbershops since then, including LaVie Kappers, Alive Kappers,

HaarHoek Utrecht and Kappersabonnement.nl. So they’ve stayed in the business, too.”

It could be said that you grew up in a barbershop. How does that affect you?

“You just naturally catch on to the business when you’re growing up. My father was a good barber, and that’s a skill you can learn. But that’s not all: you get to see the bigger picture. Growing up in a barbershop also gives you a feel for the trade’s social aspect. You notice the various aspects of the profession more and more consciously and see that everyone enjoys it.”

Did becoming a barber come naturally to you?

“Yes, I suppose it did. I started doing odd jobs when I was fifteen and was cutting people’s hair as soon as I left secondary school. Like my father and uncle, the idea of police work attracted me at first, but I decided against it in the end. Being self-employed was a more attractive option, and it was all in the family.

It also happens to be a very social profession, which I like.”

Who taught you the trade?

“I started with my father, who taught me a lot. After secondary school, I went to a hairdressing college - there weren’t any specific barber courses at the time. My father taught me the barbering trade, but I never really worked with him. I did with my uncle. He wasn’t sure if I was right for the business at first because I was still a bit too wild, but he soon realised that his nephew had the right stuff!”

Never any doubts?

“I did have some after about three years. I decided to go for adult secondary education to study management afterwards. But about two months of that was enough for me. I just really missed the haircutting. As a barber or hairdresser, you naturally meet a lot of people, and that soon matures you. Plus, I’ve always liked being in a familiar environment. I wanted to do something I was good at, that I was familiar with.”

Where did you start work?

“At Kings Barbers in Den Bosch, where I was trained as a barber mainly by Pascal van Lith. He’s an outstanding barber, and it was pretty much an up-and-coming profession when I started there. Before that, there were almost only unisex salons. Other new barbers had relatively little experience working with men only. I started working there because I wanted a look behind the scenes elsewhere. The atmosphere they had created was a great experience. All very friendly, rather than usual, somewhat distant, barber-customer relationship you so often see.

@bobarbersutrecht

It’s important for a customer to feel at home. I want to go beyond treating people as no more than customers and cut back that distance.”

What’s your take on today’s men-only barbershops?

“Because I was at the forefront of the trend, I’ve been able to closely track the rise of men-only barbershops from day one. I see men becoming more and more likely to opt for a barber. Men who used to go to a good, unisex barber now come to me. Then again, we’d rather people didn’t see barbershops as being only for fades.”

Do you have a signature style?

“I cut all men’s hair, but I’ve noticed growing demand for longer haircuts. I’m leaving the clippers aside a bit more and using scissors and a comb more often. But what’s most important to me is to listen carefully to the customer, look closely at their face shape and their style.”

You call your own business

New School. What do you mean by that?

“New School means we offer all the traditional services, but with a modern twist. Many barbershops offer a selection of standard hairstyles, but I prefer not to. My customers can choose any hairstyle they want.”

Was that a conscious decision?

“Definitely. I also worked as a barber in Barcelona for about eighteen months, and it wasn’t long after I returned to the Netherlands that I realised

I wanted my own business. I was handed over the keys to my barbershop on 1 April 2021 and opened up a few weeks later. The first few weeks were quiet. The second lockdown had just ended, and nobody knew I was there when I opened. Six weeks later, when everyone needed their hair cut again, there was a sudden rush. That storm never subsided - until the next lockdown eight months later.”

How was the lockdown for you?

“Obviously, it was a very difficult period. You keep yourself busy with trade journals, carry on learning and put a lot of time into maintaining and fine-tuning the shop. The first two lockdowns gave me the chance to think very carefully about exactly how I wanted my business to be.”

Did the lockdown also have a positive effect?

“I’ve noticed more and more men are going to the barber’s these days. There used to be a lot of home barbers, but now, with all the working from home, people want to have their hair cut somewhere else.”

Do you see any more developments in the pipeline?

“I’d like to see more women joining the profession as barbers. Why is it always just a man thing, men having their hair cut by men? There are plenty of women who are very good at the barber’s trade and fit in well with the atmosphere. I also have customers who would like that. So I’m certainly open to it. It could even lead to a more distinctive experience.”

What is the right look and feel for your business?

“The ideal look and feel is warm, personal. Like a home from home. But it has to be neat: it mustn’t get untidy. Men quickly feel at ease here. They soon start chatting once they sit down together. Yes, you also come here for a chat.”

Why do customers come to you?

“Many of my customers used to go to a regular hairdresser’s. They had been on the lookout for a good barber offering a good atmosphere who is good at what they do. There aren’t many barbershops with a friendly, personal atmosphere. At my place, it’s not a matter of having your hair cut and leaving again. I love a chat, the personal touch. I also like to work dressed casually, not all dressed up. I want to be myself and not put on an act.”

Given your background, this profession is an integral part of you. Does it feel that way?

“Yes. It would be great if it stayed in the family and didn’t end with me. I’m more than happy with the background my grandmother and father have given me. What I’d like most is to carry it on. And to share it, perhaps even pass on the knowledge to later generations. I hope that when I have children they’ll grow into the profession, just as I did. You spend a long time building up a barbershop, and it’s a very personal thing to do. It would be great to pass that on within the family. But I’m only 23 so that’s still a long way off.”

Does your father still drop by your barbershop?

“Yes, definitely! He drops by regularly, also to cut my hair. Yes, he is proud of me. That much I do know,” concludes Bo.

LIGHTS, CAMERA AND BARBERING

For many barbers, the dream is to work in the film and TV industry. It’s a glamorous world with lots of opportunities for creative expression. But how do you get started? How do you make connections and get your foot in the door? In this article, we will provide advice on how to find opportunities in this exciting field. Keep reading to learn more!

Let me preface this by saying that if there are humans in a movie or in front of a camera, they will need hair and makeup. The lead actors, supporting actors, and everyone appearing in front of the camera must have hair if you aren’t the one doing it; someone else is. Here are my top methods for becoming the go-to person when it comes to hair and makeup for the film and TV industry:

It is difficult to break into the film sector’s finest occupations; most of them are hired through connections with whom they already know before they’re advertised. That said, don’t be discouraged. You may not have the same opportunity to work on a feature film set as someone who has been doing hair and

makeup for years, but there are other areas of this industry in which you can make your mark.

The best way to get started in the film and TV industry is to make connections with people who are already working in that field. The head hair and make-up designers are the essential individuals to contact or connect with. As the saying goes it’s not who you know or what you know it’s who knows you. You might discover the individuals behind these films by checking the credits of movies that interest you. When you know their names, you may contact them through LinkedIn and other social media platforms before doing so, there is one thing you should know first. Let them know that you’re interested in working in the film and TV industry and see if they have any opportunities available.

Five things you must do if you want to get into the world of film

1 Knowledge of a variety of skills and techniques, as well as the ability to work under pressure, is necessary. For example, understanding how to create hairstyles from various historical periods will assist you in securing booking on numerous TV and film projects.

2 Demonstrate your work in a way that is consistent with the field. This is easiest if you follow how other people in the business present their work and attempt to replicate it. There are many individuals currently working in that same industry. Keep in mind that you are not allowed to talk or share about any aspects of a project until it’s finished and available for the public to see. You might also want to look for specific Facebook groups dedicated to the film industry so that you can become active in these groups by adding value.

3 Unsociable hours and call times can be very early in the mornings. But this should not put you off, as the pay is reflective of these hours.

4 If you want to work in the film industry, be aware that it is a self-employed profession with notoriously difficult scheduling and having to respond promptly to numerous projects.

5 Be prepared to be called to work abroad for long periods of time some productions can last over six months and can require you to travel to many locations around the world.

There are a few options for working in the sector. As a first unit barber, you may be someone who looks after the main cast. You’ll be called in once a week to maintain the actors’ appearances consistent throughout the production, giving continuity haircuts.

The next option is working in a crowd room. A crowd room is where a team of hairdressers and makeup artists collaborate to create hairstyles and appearances for the supporting actors, often known as SA. Supporting actors are anybody seen on screen. Before going on screen, the hair and make-up designer verifies them all.

Even if they’re sitting in a bar or strolling down the street or fighting in a battle!

So, there you have it, some of the pros and cons of being a barber in the film industry. It can be a great way to make a living and see the world but remember that it is hard work with long hours. If you are up for the challenge, then go for it!

Have you ever considered working as a barber on movie sets? What do you think are the biggest benefits and drawbacks? Let me know by dropping me an Instagram message @theprofile.guy.

Chris Foster – ‘the profile guy’!

Frank Rimer

Manifesto

Hayden Cassidy

Kevin Luchman