BarberSociety Magazine international Summer 2022 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

BARBERSOCIETY LIVE 2022 REPORT! SID SOTTUNG I’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO IMPROVE THE STANDARD OF EDUCATION STATEMENT SUNGLASSES STARTING YOUR OWN BARBERING ACADEMY? COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

CARLOS PAGAN HELPING OTHERS GROW AS A BARBER AND MINISTER

SUMMER 2022 | #12 | € 12.50

EDUCATION IS THE KEY

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Collection: London Hair: Christian Ríos (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

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EDITORIAL A LIFELONG PASSION FOR EDUCATION Interview with Sid Sottung A LIFE OF SERVICE Interview with Carlos Pagan TRENDS Ernesto Blanco Herrera, Christian Ríos, Yvonne Kok, Jos van Asten, Juliette den Ouden, Natasja van der Meer, Soraya Bloemendal, Mark van Westerop, Annemijn Groot, Maurice Pierot, Arjan Bevers, Shah Hosseinpour ANDIS STEP-BY-STEP London Crop by Kevin Luchmun STATEMENT SUNGLASSES Dolce&Gabbana x Persol PRODUCT NEWS Lifestyle, Grooming, In-Shop COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER How to Start Your Own Barbering Academy SHOWS, SHOOTS & CHARITY Interview with Juliette den Ouden BARBERSOCIETY LIVE REPORT BARBERSOCIETY WINNER OF THE YEAR 2022 Q&A with Richard Gronas ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Marc Michielse THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO… Greek Barber Festival, Coiffure Award Gala, Cosmoprof Bologna

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Leny Vlas Writers Steven Walker, Gandor Bronkhorst Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

EDUCATION IS THE KEY! This summer issue puts the spotlight on education, which plays a key role in the professional lives of all our interviewees. I personally believe that training and education are vital in our profession because they help maintain the highest quality standards. It is this awareness that drives all the activities we organise, including our events, the battles, and the magazine. Sharing our experience with others inspires us and helps foster development. I, for one, never stop learning, and although I discovered the art and joy of wet shaving at an early age, my team and I recently had the pleasure of attending a one-day shaving workshop. I enjoyed the experience immensely and found it surprisingly instructive – every day’s a school day, as they say! Whenever I watch first-class barber trainers in action, I’m still as fascinated as ever by the cutting techniques, hairstyles, and other tricks of the trade on display. Even my 75-year-old father loves watching them work their magic at BarberSociety Live. When we had Sid Sottung up

on the stage in 2017, my father couldn’t stop talking about his performance, which prompted us to reach out to him for an interview. We asked him to share his views on education, because education in the barbering business involves so much more than teaching cutting techniques alone. Desire to help others Educator Carlos Pagan, who treated the audience to an exciting show at this year’s BarberSociety Live event, explains in this summer issue that he is driven by a desire to help others. And he practises what he preaches – quite literally, in fact, as this multitalented man is not just a barber but also a minister at a local church. How’s that for versatility? Juliette den Ouden, the proud winner of the Coiffure Award Hairdresser of the Year 2021 title, is equally passionate about making a difference in the

EDITORIAL world. The company she founded, JDO, helps new talent, provides training and education, and creates international productions that take her and her team across the globe. While travelling around Africa, she learned about the discrimination and violence suffered by people with albinism. This moved her to establish the Unity for Albinism foundation – we invite you to read her inspirational story on page 58. If you’re considering setting up your own online barber academy to generate some extra income, be sure to read Chris Foster’s column. Although he’s written on this topic before, his latest contribution contains valuable new insights. He is even offering free training – check it out on page 55. BarberSociety Live Also in this issue: a how-to guide and another delightful story in our ‘All in the Family’ series, this time by Marc Michielse. He has trained

I’ll never forget how this year’s BSL made me feel!

several winners of the BarberSociety Young Talent Battle, including this year’s winner, Stan van Ballekom, a student at the ROC Tilburg regional education centre. Don’t miss the interview with the winner of the BarberSociety Battle, Richard Gronas, in the BarberSociety Live report. Our beloved barber family was finally able to reunite after three full years, and what a wonderful experience it was for all involved! I would like to thank everyone who contributed to this fantastic fifth BSL – you truly made it an unforgettable event! So, a warm thank you to our main sponsor, 1922 by J.M. Keune, and all the brands, visitors, competitors, vendors, and volunteers! I’ll never forget how this year’s event made me feel. Finally, we’re showing some extra love this month to yet more

home-grown Dutch talent. The Trend section contains a selection of the nominees in the Men’s category for the Coiffure Award 2022. Definitely worth a look! We believe the well-deserved break you’ll hopefully get to take this summer wouldn’t be complete without a pair of statement sunglasses. We’ve selected a number of ultra-stylish models for you – check them out on page 46. I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed creating it. Have a wonderful summer!

Marc van de Hare

BarberSociety Founder Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

INTERVIEW

A LIFELONG PASSION FOR EDUCATION Photography: Iain Brown

Sid Sottung has an impressive track record in the barbering industry. He started working as a barber at the age of 14. He’s now been working in the industry for 32 years. He has extensive experience in barbering education, having worked as an educator for the last 27 years. Before starting his own businesses, Sid had a 17-year international career with Vidal Sassoon, serving as an educator at their academies in London and Los Angeles. Born and raised in New York, he has now been in the UK for over 20 years and considers it his home. He’s built a strong presence in barbering and hairdressing, owning a barbershop, unisex hair salon and two academies. Considered one of the world’s leading barbering educators, he takes a holistic approach to training with the aim of giving students a life-skills set enabling them to build their self-confidence, develop mentally and grow a future-proof career. We met up with Sid Sottung to talk about the importance of education and how to use our hands, minds and hearts to build successful careers.

@sidsottungacademy @sidsottungbarbershop An early start in barbering Sid took his first steps in the barbering industry at just 14 years of age. After attending hairdressing college, he landed a position with the premiere brand Vidal Sassoon. Sid explains how he got into the barbering industry: “I originally started as a barber in New York at age 14. Three years later, my mother suggested I go into ladies hairdressing. So I went to college to complete a programme in women’s hairdressing. After that I worked at various places throughout New York before applying for a position with Vidal Sassoon, which at the time was a very strong, world-famous hairdressing brand. I worked for them as a unisex hairstylist for about 17 years. During that time I also became an educator, teaching at Vidal Sassoon academies in Los Angeles and London.”

Born in New York, made in the UK His work for Vidal Sassoon brought him to the UK and he ended up settling in the country. He now lives in Edinburgh and calls the UK home: “I’ve been in the UK for over 20 years now. This is my home – I absolutely love it here. I have two training academies, one in Nottingham and one in Edinburgh. I also have a barbershop in Leicester and a unisex hair salon in Nottingham in the same building as my academy. The barbershop is strictly for men’s styles, where we do wet shaving, beard designing and beard colouring. In the hair salon it’s unisex, so we do everything from ladies’ colouring, long hair and short hair to wet shaves and beard design.”

A born educator Sid has been working as an educator for some 27 years. He’s built on the strong foundation he gained at Vidal Sassoon to develop his own unique style of hands-on teaching and education. Sid explains how he got into education: “Being an educator has stemmed from when I was a child and would go to school and feel that the teachers weren’t excited about what they were teaching. I thought it could be done differently and started thinking at a young age about a different approach to education. I feel that teaching was always in me from day one. I’ve always wanted to improve the standard of education. And that’s why I truly believe in education.”

I’ve always wanted to improve the standard of education 7

Everybody thinks they are an educator Up close and personal Sid has developed his own teaching method through the years and believes a personalised approach is key. “I’ve developed my own teaching methods through the years. I do, of course, draw inspiration from Vidal Sassoon, which gave me such a strong foundation in teaching. But my approach to education has evolved and grown over the years. We aim to take a more personalised approach to our teaching, particularly within our classrooms. We usually have a maximum of six students for a course. So the classes are small and intimate. This ensures we can give each student the personalised attention they deserve.” Distinctive within a crowded training market The barbering training landscape has changed dramatically in recent years, Sid says, “When I first started offering these courses in the UK over ten years ago, we were the third training provider for barbering courses in the UK. But now it seems that everybody thinks they are an educator or want to be an educator. So they’re offering training courses in their own barbershops and so forth.” Education in the YouTube age Sid believes there is still a place for traditional classroom learning in the field of barbering. He says interaction and mentoring are key and that YouTube simply cannot provide the same learning experience. “I’m old school. I started barbering before the Internet. So all I know is the traditional way of learning, which is for me more hands-on. The way I learned is that I had to make mistakes on my own clients inside 8

the barbershop. The new generation is, of course, used to online and free education on YouTube. But what they are lacking is an intimate setting. And they don’t have a mentor, because a teacher or educator is actually a mentor for the student,” says Sid. He says training by YouTube could be detrimental to the skill level and industry standards within the barbering sector. When barbers simply replicate what they see online, they’re not actually growing their skills and developing their careers. Sid comments: “So when you’re watching YouTube, you don’t have that interaction with a mentor or with someone to guide you through your career. So what happens is the new generation of barbers doesn’t have any grounding or strong foundation. What they then do is just replicate what they see online, and they then learn not to think for themselves. This means the actual development of the craft is not very organic growth. So what happens is the skill level and maintaining of the industry standards is thrown out the window. As a result it becomes chaotic, and we start losing the focus on developing careers in the industry, so it just ends up being a job.” Giving students life skills What can students expect to take away from a training course with Sid Sottung? “Most training providers will say the barbering skill set, the haircutting skill set, beard designing, etc. The thing is: we offer all of that, but we also give them a life-skills set. We do this by developing them also mentally and building up their confidence. Our starting point is: It’s okay to make mistakes as long as you learn from them. It’s all about progress before perfection.

Anyone can teach how to cut hair, but what we share with our students is that it’s about building a career. This means we also talk about repeat clients and developing a career, not just about how to do your fancy fade.” Knowledge beyond a good haircut Sid says his academies are distinctive because they provide comprehensive training covering all the different aspects of a career in barbering. “We’re one of the few academies in the world that actually teaches everything across the board, such as long hair, short hair, medium length, wet shaving, beard designing and men’s colouring. Why? We want our students to be successful, be able to make money and build a career. So we talk about client care, product knowledge, product retail and how to deal with difficult clients. And we discuss how to focus on the most important person in the room, which is the returning client. After all, the returning client is the one who will pay for your rent, that will pay for your phone bill, that will pay for your going out and getting drunk. So we are client-focused, we’re about developing the skill level for our students and maintaining a close relationship with them after the course. That’s something we do in our actual special VIP programme, which is a training membership programme.” Sid says the range of topics covered is more extensive than some students expect. “Sometimes our students are surprised when they start the course and realise it really is a multidimensional profession. A lot of times they think it’s all about just doing a haircut in ten minutes and getting paid and that’s it.”

Hair: Sid Sottung Photography: Juliya Shok Products: KMS Scissors: Ohka Sakura Clippers: Andis

‘Void Collection’ Hair: Sid Sottung Photography: Juliya Shok Products: Fudge

Creativity doesn’t pay the bills What is Sid’s advice to people who are just starting their careers in barbering? “Learning to be a barber, it’s important to realise there are many different aspects of the world of barbering. Working at a barbershop you learn to do wet shaving, beard designing and how to work with longer hair styles. And it’s important to make sure you recommend the professional products for your clients – because one it makes your client look good, but at the same time you’re able to make money. Barbers need to act professionally and make sure they are able to rebook their clients before they leave so they will definitely come back in the future. Creativity doesn’t pay the bills. Those clients that are coming every couple of weeks, every month, the ones with the boring classic haircuts, they pay the bills. Creativity as a barber is an outlet where we need to feel or expose this beautiful feeling of expression. But at the same time, barbering is also a career.” He also says it’s important to take the time to develop your skills and dare to make mistakes along the ways. “Remember: You have to give time some time. This journey that you’re on – just go with the flow. It will happen, you have to put hard work into the development of your skill level. But don’t forget that barbering is a craft. Barbers are artists, so we work with our hands, our mind and our heart. So developing a craft does take some time.” 9

@drasticartbarbering

INTERVIEW

CARLOS PAGAN A LIFE OF SERVICE 10

Carlos Pagan aka Drasticartbarbering places helping others at the heart of everything he does. He’s been cutting hair since the age of 12. A born educator, he started teaching classes and giving seminars in Puerto Rico when he was just 17. He moved to Florida at age 21 and opened his own barbershop in Plant City three years later. As an educator he helps people reach their highest potential, both for themselves and their communities. As an ambassador for L3VEL3, he teaches hair colouring techniques around the world. Alongside his work as a barber, Carlos serves as a minister at a local Church. He says that in both professions you help others to grow and feel better. Carlos recently took part in BarberSociety Live and loved the experience. High time to meet up with Carlos to talk about following dreams, realising potential and caring for people’s hair and souls.

Early start Carlos got off to an early start in barbering. He was just 12 when he started cutting hair. By age 17, he was teaching others how to master the craft. Carlos explains: “I started cutting hair when I was 12. I learned how to do it because I have a handicapped brother who is older than me. We’d go to the barbershop to have his beard done, but then at home I would give him shaves and trim his beard. When I was 12, my dad lost his job at a pharmaceutical company. So I grabbed the clippers and began giving haircuts to help my parents financially. I started cutting hair for 2 dollars a head back in Puerto Rico just to help them out. Then, at age 17, I started

teaching at an academy in Puerto Rico after finishing my barber’s education.” Love and marriage in the Sunshine State A few years later, Carlos got married and left Puerto Rico to start a new life in Florida, USA. Equipped with the barbering skills he had picked up since childhood, he quickly found work in a barbershop and soon afterwards started his own business. “I got married to Karol de Jesus and moved to Florida when I was 21. My first job in the US was at a barbershop in Plant City, Florida. Three years later I opened my own barbershop in Plant City, and we have now been open for 15 years.”

It isn’t about the educator, it’s about the student Carlos’ business is called My Town Barbershop and it has grown steadily over the past decade and a half. He now works with a team of 11 barbers and offers a full range of services including cuts, edges, beards, eyebrows, designs and hot towel shaves. After focussing all his attention on his business for many years, he only recently began entering competitions. Carlos says: “I started competing in 2019. Since then I’ve been competing all over the US and out of the US and I’ve picked up 18 first place trophies at CT Barber Expo, Las Vegas Barber Expo and Texas Barber Expo.” Helping others realise their potential Carlos has returned to educating after a 15-year interval. When asked why he is drawn to education, Carlos replies: “I got into education early when I was a teenager in Puerto Rico. I wanted to help others to make the most of their potential. In my heart, I felt like it was my purpose, God had planned for me to help others through education. Not just to help their career, but also their mindset. I worked at three institutions in Puerto Rico for three years, then when I came to Florida I stopped educating for a while to build my clientele at the shop. And now, I’ve started educating

again with the same passion, the same purpose – to help others to elevate them. My aim is to help everyone reach their highest potential, not just for themselves, but for their family, faith, soul, mindset and financial independence.” YouTube can’t match live interaction Carlos says traditional barbering training plays a crucial role in developing barbers’ skills, self-confidence and business knowledge. He believes YouTube videos are no replacement for a learning experience in which the teacher and student interact and put theory into practice. “Nothing compares to education in a classroom or online when there is interaction with the students. That’s why education is important if anyone wants to reach their highest potential. In YouTube you’re just listening and receiving, but you can’t ask questions and get answers. The interaction is essential.” Focus on your students What does Carlos see as the key qualities of a good educator? “A good delivery. The flexibility not just to explain things in terms, but to bring down the terms to everyday practice aligned to your audience. When you have an audience of say 100 people,

you have different levels of education. You’ve got to break down every term so more people can understand all the techniques and apply them later.” Carlos explains that working as a barber and teaching others the skills of the trade are two very different things. “A lot of barbers today want to be educators. They write me and ask, ‘How do I become an educator?’ I then ask: ‘Why do you want to be an educator?’ What I’ve discovered is that they just want to be on a platform and have people look at them. That’s probably the wrong motive because education isn’t about the educator, it’s about the student. So you have to put your brain, soul and heart into teaching them and enabling them to grow. The focus must be on your students and not on you.” Growing as an ambassador for L3VEL3 Carlos recently became a global ambassador for L3VEL3. He sees the ambassadorship as an opportunity to grow professionally and personally. Why did he choose to partner with L3VEL3? “L3VEL3 is the biggest and fastest-growing grooming product line in the industry. It has great products, but what really attracted me to the company is their outstanding team. I strongly believe that

you have to surround yourself with greatness if you want to be great.” L3VEL3 is introducing a colouring line and Carlos has been commissioned with teaching hair colouring techniques to professionals worldwide. It’s an international role that crosses cultural and language boundaries. “I’m a global ambassador and educator for L3VEL3. I’m bilingual – I speak Spanish and English – I was hired to not just promote products but to teach techniques. L3VEL3 is introducing their own hair colouring line. They have also asked me to teach hair colouring techniques all over the world,” says Carlos. He shares L3VEL3’s core values and says the ambassadorship provides him with a launchpad

for further growth. “Inspiring environment, growing mentality, team effort – are the core values that I see in L3VEL3. This ambassadorship allows me to grow with the biggest platform right now in the world. So grow myself, grow my brand and be exposed to more talented people and continue to grow.” Helping others grow spiritually Alongside running his successful barbershop, Carlos became an ordained minister 18 years ago. Today he serves as a minister at a local Church where he preaches every Sunday. Carlos: “I’ve been a minister for the past 18 years. I’ve been the main pastor of Brandon Nazarene Church in Brandon, Florida for the past six years. Thank God that He called me to share His Word and

help others to grow spiritually in all aspects of their lives.” Carlos sees clear similarities between being a barber and a minister. He says both roles focus on serving others and meeting people’s physical and spiritual needs. Carlos explains: “There are definitely similarities. Christianity itself is about serving others. That’s what Jesus Christ taught us – to serve others. Barbering is serving a community. Every customer who comes to you, doesn’t come just for haircut; they come to receive a service. It’s going to help them feel better – both in terms of how they look and mentally, physically and spiritually.”

It was mind-blowing to see such young talents doing really incredible work

Barbers at the heart of society Carlos says that barbers, like ministers, play an integral part in people’s lives that goes far beyond just cutting hair. “As barbers we’ve been with our customers in their school pictures and at their college graduation, their wedding, baby showers – at every life event we’re there on a haircut. And that haircut makes everybody feel better and more confident on that occasion. In both professions you are helping others to grow and feel better.” Amazing experience at BarberSociety Live Carlos participated in BarberSociety Live in April. How was the experience? “It was amazing! It was a highquality event. I fell in love with Amsterdam and the country –

the architecture, the people were amazing, so warm and welcoming. I made friends for life; we’ve kept in touch after the event on a weekly basis. It was mind-blowing to see such young talents in the battle doing really incredible work.” Words of encouragement What is Carlos’ message to the international barbering community? “Don’t get discouraged. Keep pushing forward through every trial and tribulation. Look at myself, I am the father of four, married for 18 years, pastor of a church, owner of a business with 11 employees and travelling the world teaching. When God has a purpose for you, He will take you by the hand and take you to places you can’t even imagine.”

ERNESTO BLANCO HERRERA

Collection: Nomad Hair: Ernesto Blanco Herrera (ES) Photography: Antonio Martin Alonso de Essential Film Styling: Ernesto Blanco Herrera Models: @abelgarciacayuso, @christian.g89, Dester, @cristiaan.gsl @ernestopeluquero_tbs

SPAIN

CHRISTIAN RÍOS

20 FINALIST FÍGARO AWARDS 2021, BEST MEN COMMERCIAL COLLECTION CATEGORY

FINALIST AIPP AWARDS 2021/2022, BEST MEN CATEGORY

Collection: London Hair: Christian Ríos (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Makeup: Gloss Make Up Styling: Christian Ríos @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

SPAIN

Collection: London Hair: Christian Ríos (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Makeup: Gloss Make Up Styling: Christian Ríos @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

Hair: Yvonne Kok, Mr. Handsome (NL) Photography: Richard Monsieurs Makeup: Deborah Peek Styling: Annet Veerbeek @barber.yvonne.mr.handsome

YVONNE KOK

THE NETHERLANDS

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

JOS VAN ASTEN

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

Hair: Jos van Asten, Avanti kappers (NL) Photography: Arjan Bevers Makeup: Mireille Bevers Styling: Mireille Bevers @avantikappers

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Jos van Asten, Avanti kappers (NL) Photography: Arjan Bevers Makeup: Mireille Bevers Styling: Mireille Bevers @avantikappers

JULIETTE DEN OUDEN

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

Hair: Juliette den Ouden, JDO Salon (NL) Photography: Michelle van Dijk Makeup: Juliette den Ouden Styling: Anat Dychtwald @juliettedenouden

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Juliette den Ouden, JDO Salon (NL) Photography: Michelle van Dijk Makeup: Juliette den Ouden Styling: Anat Dychtwald @juliettedenouden

THE NETHERLANDS

NATASJA VAN DER MEER

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE 28

Hair: Natasja van der Meer, Hair and Dare (NL) Photography: Armando Branco Makeup: Natasja van der Meer Styling: Kapar @hairanddare

SORAYA BLOEMENDAL

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

Hair: Soraya Bloemendal, SB Hair Experts (NL) Photography: Petra Holland Makeup: Darien Touma Styling: Marjon van de Zee @soraya_bloemendal

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Soraya Bloemendal, SB Hair Experts (NL) Photography: Petra Holland Makeup: Darien Touma Styling: Marjon van de Zee @soraya_bloemendal

MARK VAN WESTEROP

32 WINNER BEST MEN CATEGORY NORTH OF THE NETHERLANDS

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022

Hair: Mark van Westerop, Pro-Solo (NL) Photography: Mark van Westerop Makeup: Angelique Stapelbroek Styling: Ed Noyons @markvanwesterop

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Mark van Westerop, Pro-Solo (NL) Photography: Mark van Westerop Makeup: Angelique Stapelbroek Styling: Ed Noyons @markvanwesterop

ANNEMIJN GROOT

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

Hair: Annemijn Groot, Bob Jansen haar & make-up (NL) Photography: Ivo de Kok Makeup: Niels Jansen Styling: Annet Veerbeek @anne.mijnn

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Annemijn Groot, Bob Jansen haar & make-up (NL) Photography: Ivo de Kok Makeup: Niels Jansen Styling: Annet Veerbeek @anne.mijnn

MAURICE PIEROT

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

Hair: Maurice Pierot, Pierot Coiffures & Beaute (NL) Photography: Hans Petersen Makeup: Michel Shakiba Styling: Daniella Pierot @mauricepierot

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Maurice Pierot, Pierot Coiffures & Beaute (NL) Photography: Hans Petersen Makeup: Michel Shakiba Styling: Daniella Pierot @mauricepierot

ARJAN BEVERS

40 WINNER BEST MEN CATEGORY SOUTH OF THE NETHERLANDS

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022

Hair: Arjan Bevers, Avanti kappers (NL) Photography: Arjan Bevers Makeup: Mireille Bevers Styling: Mireille Bevers @arjanbevers

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Shah Hosseinpour, Shah’s Colorhouse (NL) Photography: Jasmijn de Lange Makeup: Mia Wakefield Styling: Merlot Styling @hdcolorhouse

SHAH HOSSEINPOUR

THE NETHERLANDS

COIFFURE AWARDS 2022 NOMINEE

ANDIS STEP-BY-STEP

ST E P X ST E P

FLUID Vol. 3 Collection led by Andis International Artistic Team Lead, Kevin Luchmun. Model look: Joel

Use an Andis Master® Cordless Clipper, and with the blade closed, cut clipper-over-comb on the curve of the head to create the initial guide.

Next, use a #2 attachment comb and remove the hair below the previously cut guideline to create the canvas to start the fade.

Switch to a #1.5 attachment comb and open the blade to start descending the fade below the previously cut section.

The London Crop combines elements of precision cutting and sharp detailing. Created using a soft clipper fade throughout the sides and back, this look finishes with a bold, detailed front fringe that demands attention.

LONDON CROP 4

Continue descending the fade using a #0.5 attachment comb with blade closed, cutting below the previously cut section using a C-stroke motion.

Remove the attachment comb and begin fading to a smooth transition at the nape area. Start with the blade in the open position, gradually working your way to a closed blade.

Repeat this same fading process on the sides.

With the Andis GTX-EXO™ Trimmer, start to remove the hair around the perimeter.

Cut clipper-over-finger or use shears to connect the top and back areas using diagonal sections, working with a low elevation to maintain the length at the crown.

Then take horizontal sections to connect to the guide on the curve of the head, still working with a low elevation.

Blow dry the hair, using fingers and a brush to help add volume at the roots.

Use the GTX-EXO trimmer and visually cut the front fringe to the desired length.

Finish styling with product to enhance the texture.

Barbers and stylists can purchase on-demand access to each FLUID Vol. 3 video. The cost is $50.00 per video. The London Crop video can be found directly at the Andis webite, scan the QR code. In addition to the London Crop, this educational step-by-step video collection consists of 4 more hairstyles, ranging from a low tapered afro to a modern bowl mullet, giving detailed steps, and guiding barbers and stylists through each look using Andis® cutting tools. The vids can be purchased at the Andis website. Scan the QR code and choose the On Demand Video section to find the collection. 45

DOLCE&GABBANA X PERSOL

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An interplay between style icons: the flair of Dolce&Gabbana and Persol’s unmistakable signature have produced a special collection of sunglasses and eyeglasses that encapsulates the essence of the two Italian brands in an original way, combining aesthetic research and expertise.

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In the four models – two eyeglasses and two sunglasses, available in two different sizes – Persol’s minimal style is combined with the irreverent style of the Italian fashion house. The classic D-frame, featuring the front of the 649 model, is enhanced by transparencies, logo details and color combinations inspired by the brand’s stylistic codes, from Havana to Persol black,

from the Zebra pattern to the colorful universe of Dolce&Gabbana. More information The sunglasses are now available on www.persol.com and www.dolcegabbana.com, at Persol Stores and Dolce&Gabbana Boutiques and at selected opticians.

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The sunglasses and eyeglasses retail from € 280.

1 Emporio Armani Sustainability

2 Emporio Armani Sustainability

LIFESTYLE

Giorgio Armani

4 Oakley Leffingwell

5 Persol

6 Persol

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LIFESTYLE

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Silhouette Futura Dot, 9912 9040, Fly

LIFESTYLE

Silhouette

BEVIRO ANTI HAIRLOSS SHAMPOO If hair starts to thin, it’s important to slow down or even stop this process. Beviro Anti Hairloss shampoo contains 99% natural ingredients. Caffeine and guarana provide energy to the hair cells and the CBD oil provides the scalp with the most important omega fatty acids. More information www.intershave.com

18.21 MAN MADE DETOX BAR

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This moisturizing, non-drying bar soap offers a rich lather and features activated charcoal to help remove excess oil, dirt & impurities from your face and body. Just the thing for acneprone skin and equally effective for all skin types, the Detox Bar can be used as a refreshing dailyface wash or as a regular

detoxification treatment. The detox bar soap is made with exclusive oils, also used in the 18.21 Man Made Sweet Tobacco cologne, to create a downright irresistible aroma inspired by Virginia pipe tobacco. More information www.1821manmade.com

SHEAR REVIVAL AMERICAN GARDENS CLAY POMADE A firm and dry clay pomade that can be washed out easily. For a matte and modern look. Does not dry out the hair. Shear Revival’s harmoniously balanced scent of oak moss and wild orange wafts around the nose again and again throughout the day and is by no means intrusive. Handmade, vegan and made from 98% natural ingredients. More information www.pomadeshop.com

GRAHAM HILL now has an eau de toilette in its range. The legendary BEAU RIVAGE. In perfect harmony with summer, the fragrance makes you want to go to the sea and honours the Riviera in the south of France. Citrusy freshness of bergamot and mildly tart notes of amber and cedar create a beguiling fragrance composition. A touch of BEAU RIVAGE lends the unmistakable desire for savoir vivre and French nonchalance. More information www.grahamhill-cosmetics.com

GROOMING

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NEW WAHL LEGEND NOW CORDLESS The powerful hair clipper for complete fades The popular 5 Star Series LEGEND from WAHL with its powerful cutting performance and excellent robustness is now available as a cordless version. The professional appliance has received a technical upgrade that impresses with many top features: with its WEDGE BLADE, a first-class precision blade set, it can cut both extremely quickly and precisely. The precision blade set boasts a remarkably flat 13° angle, which makes cuts close to the skin possible without troublesome edges. Thanks to the integrated cutting length adjustment, which also provides the new CORDLESS LEGEND with the best-possible length variations of all WAHL appliances, you can now create complete fades and flowing transitions. In addition, the clipper is lighter and more flexible. More information www.wahl-professional.de

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C O LU M N C H R I S FO ST E R

HOW TO START YOUR OWN BARBERING ACADEMY If you’re looking for a way to share your passion for education with the world, becoming an online educator may be the perfect career for you. There has never been a better time to start an online business.

Maybe you are striving to increase your income without spending hours and hours behind the chair. You may feel uncertain about the future or under significant financial pressure, especially with not enough clients coming through the door. Perhaps you’re frustrated because you want more flexibility and freedom in your life. You know the exchange in time for money is not scalable for the long term. Having your own barbering academy will allow you to reach students all over the world. All it takes is some creativity and hard work!

Why teach online anyway? Having a digital academy will allow you to sell your product and scale what you do best because you are productising your knowledge. Creating your own academy puts you in complete control of your finances. Once you have a successful digital academy, you can market your skills and services as an industry authority; this will skyrocket your credibility. As a result, you can charge higher fees since students can consume your knowledge at different rates, allowing you to share your skills and experience at scale. Allow me to share with you five methods for developing a lucrative knowledge base business that will provide you with a profit from your years of experience.

1 Find your niche. What makes you unique? When it comes to finding success as an educator, it’s important to find your niche. What makes you unique? What can you offer that other educators can’t? Whether it’s your teaching style, educational philosophy, or commitment to your students, there’s something that makes you stand out from the crowd. Once you have found it, don’t be afraid to lean into it. The more you focus on what makes you unique, the more likely you are to find success as an educator. So, ask yourself, what makes you special? What can you offer that other educators can not? And then use those answers to help you find your niche.

Create High-quality content Creating high-quality content is one of the most important aspects of being a successful online educator. There are a few key points to keep in mind when creating high-quality content. First, your content must be wellwritten. This means it should be free of grammar and spelling errors, and it should be clear and concise. Second, your content must be informative. It should cover all the key points you want your students to learn, and it should do so in an engaging way. Finally, your content must be engaging. This means using multimedia resources, such as videos and graphics, to break up the text and keep your students engaged. The most common blunder I’ve seen individuals make is to produce content without first determining what issues their pupils are facing. My advice here is to create material that solves a certain problem your students have, or you will find it tough to sell your education goods.

By following these simple tips, you can ensure that your content is of the highest quality and that your students will remain engaged throughout your course. Be active on social media These days, social media is a powerful tool that everyone should be utilising. Not only is it a great way to connect with your audience, but it’s also a great way to promote your education philosophy or academy. There are tons of different platforms out there, so it’s important to find the ones that work best for you and your business. Once you do, make sure to be active and engaging regularly. Post interesting content, answer questions and interact with your followers. The more you put into it, the more you’ll get out of it.

Offer free resources If you’re looking for a way to attract students to your academy, one great option is to offer free resources. Free resources can come in many forms, but some helpful examples include tips, templates, and worksheets. By providing students with useful tools that they can use in their studies, you will not only be helping them to learn but giving the student a taster of your education which then can lead to subsequent sales.

Foster a community A strong community is essential for any organisation, but it is especially important for academies. After all, one of the main goals of an academy is to foster relationships and encourage interaction between students. It’s all about that “know like and trust” (KLT) factor. A strong community can help you retain students by providing them with a support network and a sense of belonging. It can also promote your academy by helping to spread word-ofmouth marketing. There are many ways to build a strong community, but social media, forums, and chat rooms are some of the most effective. By using these tools, you can create a space where students can interact, share ideas, and build relationships. In doing so, you will promote your academy and create a more supportive environment for your students.

So, if you’re looking to start an online barbering academy, or you want to improve the one you already have, make sure to follow these tips. They’ll help you create high-quality content that engages your students and helps them learn whilst building a strong community of students. There’s no denying that the cost of living is rising, and it’s becoming increasingly difficult to make ends meet. This is why I believe it is so important to maximise the information we have and use it to generate more income. For example, if you’re a barber, there’s a lot of information out there on how to cut hair, style hair, etc. But what many people don’t realise is that this information can be used to generate an income. Free training I have some free training on starting a 10k a month barbering academy from scratch, and I’m inviting anyone interested in learning more about how to turn their information into income to join me. Feel free to drop me a DM on my Instagram @theprofile.guy. I will be happy to send you my free training. Let’s maximise our information and create some financial stability for ourselves! Chris Foster The Profile Guy 57

@juliettedenouden @jdo_academy

Working on shows and shoots was always my dream

INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW WITH AWARD-WINNING HAIR STYLIST JULIETTE DEN OUDEN A Dutch celebrity hair stylist and beauty entrepreneur whose business has taken her all over the world, 37-year-old Juliette den Ouden has won numerous awards, including for her men’s collections. She received the Coiffure ‘Hairdresser of the Year’ Award in 2021, and this year she earned second place in the ‘Men’s Hairstyles’ category at the Coiffure Awards for her geographic area. She is involved in several charities and recently founded ‘Unity for Albinism’, a charitable organisation dedicated to supporting people in Africa who were born with this genetic condition.

How it all started “I was just 15 years old when I started out in the hairdressing business. I cut my teeth working in a salon in a small Dutch village, but I soon found work at Christiaan Kappers, a more high-end salon based in Rotterdam. Back in 2001, I was involved behind the scenes in my first big show: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf. I was offered the opportunity to be an assistant make-up artist, and I remember thinking: ‘This is something I’d love to do for real!’ I’ve always had an interest in working with both hair and make-up, and so in addition to training as a hair stylist I decided to do a course in make-up artistry in Amsterdam. After completing both courses, I started working fashion shows and photo shoots – that had always been my dream, my ultimate ambition. I was also still working at the salon at that time. I managed to combine those two gigs for many years, until I started developing a host of work-related injuries back in 2009, including a chronic shoulder injury. I was out of the game for two full years, having

also been forced to leave my job at the salon. In 2011, I made my comeback in the business, and that’s when I started winning awards every season. After teaching at a hairdressing college for a while, I ended up starting my own make-up academy in 2013. In 2017, I incorporated my business, JDO, which at this point also includes a salon, a management company, and a talent agency.” From the Seychelles to Milos “What does our work involve? JDO Management partners with various creative artists in fields such as photography and video production, and we also create international productions for the fashion and beauty industry. We do a lot of promotional shoots that take us all over the world. I was in the Seychelles two weeks ago, and tomorrow I’m heading off to the Greek island of Milos. Although we’re a small team, we’ve been involved in some major projects. JDO Academy offers hair styling and make-up courses, and we recently also started providing in-salon training. We’ve trained a lot of talented students over 59

Variety “Whenever I’m not travelling, I still cut people’s hair, because I love doing that. Unfortunately, due to my shoulder injury, I can only look after a small number of clients. What do all the different types of work I do have in common? I’d say they’re all about being creative, doing what I love most, and helping others to succeed. Training other people and helping them grow is one of my favourite things. Of course, all the international travel I get to do and the exotic places I get to visit don’t hurt either. I don’t see these activities as separate from each other at all; to me, they’re all part of the same experience. In fact, it’s the variety that I love more than anything.”

Uitreiking Coiffure Awards 2022

My personal challenge “The most challenging part of running my own business is

maintaining a healthy work/life balance. Haha! Although my friends are supportive, working in seasonbased industries like hair and fashion can be tricky. From a business perspective, I love being involved in a lot of different projects at the same time. I’ve taught myself all these skills and tend to do everything myself – I even design my own flyers.” Juliette treated the audience at the 2022 Coiffure Awards ceremony to a fantastic show. Dubbed ‘Unity,’ the show – conceived as a tribute to Africa – was created to raise awareness of albinism. “I put together the whole production myself: video, music, voice-over, models…literally everything. My team was on hand to coordinate the whole thing on the day of the event, since, as a nominee, I had to do the whole red-carpet thing and attend the pre-ceremony dinner.” So how does she manage to keep all those balls in the air? “This is what I happen to do best. I like working under pressure and have to rethink my priorities every single day. But things always calm down eventually, and when they do I like

to unwind by riding my motorcycle, going rock climbing, playing sports, and doing other activities.” Awareness When asked what inspired her to create Unity for Albinism, a charity organisation dedicated to supporting people with albinism in Africa, she answers: “It all started with a picture we took of an African boy with albinism about six years ago. He told us he was regularly bullied for his appearance, which was just so upsetting to us. He was such a beautiful boy, and yet he’s stigmatised because he looks different. That experience inspired us to start taking photographs of all kinds of people with vitiligo and albinism. To create awareness of the issue, I included one of those photographs in my Coiffure Award portfolio in 2019, and I ended up winning that year. My go-to photographer had an exhibition in Miami at that time called ‘The Work of Contrast,’ which generated a lot of online buzz. It was picked up around the time of the worldwide Black Lives Matter protests, and those photos ended up going viral. They were all over the media, and even many people in Africa have seen the winning picture. We were

I draw inspiration from my international travels and the natural world

Photography: © Coiffure Award

the years, including some of the best stylists in our field. We recently founded JDO Talent Agency, through which we support new talent. Some of our former trainees are currently renting chairs in our JDO salons, and we help them land deals and get them work on new projects.”

able to really make an impact, which gave us the confidence to take things one step further and try to really make a difference in the world.” Witch doctors “We were told by the staff at a safe house in Tanzania for people with albinism and other conditions that people with albinism are sometimes brutally murdered or maimed by witch doctors. For some time now, I’ve been an ambassador for Hairdressers without Borders, a foundation that provides women in developing countries with an education and opportunities for the future and teaches them skills that help improve their selfconfidence. I was able to do so much work for this foundation on my own that I made it my next mission to start a charity for people with albinism. When I won the Coiffure Award last year, I knew right away that I wanted to give a platform to this cause and I worked very hard to make that happen. I started a fundraising campaign to support the ‘Mary Mother of God’ safe house in Lamadi, a town in Tanzania. They offer people with albinism a safe place to stay, as well as providing them with care and education. Sadly, there’s almost no money available to cover the cost of food, medical care or training. A virus broke out there two weeks ago that wound up killing a large number of their chickens. They see me as their saviour, so I’m starting out by raising money for food to feed the 100 children living there for a whole year. I also plan to ship a container filled with sunscreen products to Tanzania, as people with this condition are prone to skin cancer. My goal is to one day buy a piece of land for the ‘Feed Yourself’ project to help them set up a farming business, keep livestock, and be self-sufficient. Through my organisation, I also intend to support the Dutch Albinism in Africa Foundation (Stichting Albinisme in Afrika, or SAA), which is dedicated to fighting skin cancer in Africans with albinism.” 61

Motivation “What drives me? I feel a strong desire to help others; that’s also why I started my academy and management company. I’m surrounded by all these talented artists – why do they have a hard time finding work? I just want them to be able to shine and do what they do best. It’s the same for the talent agency and the salon. Working for Hairdressers without Borders, I saw what a difference you can make and how happy you can make people by teaching them a new skill. I don’t get paid for the work I do for them, but I find it incredibly gratifying and rewarding in other ways. I would love it if my foundation could raise public awareness of the problems encountered by people with albinism in Africa and could help put an end to these atrocities. I also hope that people in the Netherlands come to realise that our lives over here really aren’t all that bad, and that they should be happy and grateful for what they’ve got.” Educator As an educator, Juliette believes it’s important to always get a good sense of the people you’re interacting with. “It’s not so much about the techniques you might teach someone, but rather about 62

developing rapport with that person. It’s all about giving people personal attention. As a trainer, I feel it’s important to put people at ease. If someone feels safe and comfortable with you, they’ll get the maximum benefit from the education they receive: they will have an open mind and be able to soak it all up.” Juliette also takes part in international competitions: she won third place in the AIPP Awards (Association Internationale Presse Professionnelle Coiffure – Ed.) in the ‘Men’ category, for example. “Competing in these types of events raises your profile. I’m an artist with an international presence, and it’s reassuring for my clients to know that they’ve hired the services of a stylist and make-up artist with a high standard of expertise and professionalism. And international recognition is a real badge of honour. In the Netherlands, the Coiffure Awards mean a lot to me, as they helped me find my way back into the hairdressing business. I was out of commission for a while because of the injuries I was dealing with, and I later made a name for myself mainly as a make-up artist. I decided to compete in the Coiffure Awards purely to prove something to myself. To me, my accomplishments reflect how

passionate I feel about the hairdressing business. It’s thanks to Coiffure Awards that I can really own my identity as a hair stylist again.” No preference Juliette cuts both men’s and women’s hair, and – as her many awards attest – is highly accomplished in both categories. “When it comes to working with men or women, I can’t say I have a preference – I love both equally. When cutting a man’s hair, one of my strengths is bringing out the best in the person by looking closely at their face, neck, nose, and ears. I also feel hair styling is very important and regard it as a completely separate art from hairdressing. I specialise in hair styling, and I use the same techniques for men as I do for women. I’m always looking for ways to innovate and setting new trends. I create my own cutting techniques and get inspiration from my international travels and the natural world. I take events – including patterns, textures and colours – and transform them into a visual aesthetic. But I can just as easily be inspired by emotions in creating new collections. Each collection has its own unique story to tell.” Asked about trends in men’s hairstyles, she says: “We’ll be seeing

a lot more curls on guys! And the Covid pandemic has led to a shift toward layered, longer hair. People want their hair a little messier and more casual.” Future plans “Five years from now, I hope to be a member of the Coiffure Awards Hall of Fame! You’re inducted if you win their ‘Hairdresser of the Year’ award three times. I would also like to see Unity for Albinism take off and hope my company continues to thrive. And on a personal level, of course I want to keep growing as well.” Tip Juliette has a tip to share with readers: “Stay true to yourself! People spend too much time looking at others on social media – what are your friends and favourite celebrities up to? It’s a shame, because they end up following the herd and creating things without listening to their heart.”

Unity for Albinism A charity organisation founded by Juliette den Ouden, Unity for Albinism is dedicated to supporting people with albinism across the African continent. In certain parts of Africa, people with albinism have an average life expectancy of just 15-30 years because they are at an increased risk of developing skin cancer and many are brutally murdered by witch doctors.

We wanted to take things one step further and really make a difference in the world

Unity for Albinism supports the Mary Mother of God safe house in Tanzania and the Netherlands-based Stichting Albinisme in Afrika (Albinism in Africa Foundation). Scan the QR code for more information and to make a donation. www.unityforalbinism.com 63

BARBERSOCIETY LIVE

ORT REPORT R

Judges BarberSociety Battle & Battle floor manager

BarberSociety Live got back into the ring on Sunday, 10 April as the first barbering event to be held in the Netherlands for 3 years due to the corona measures! More than 700 people took part in the fifth edition in Amsterdam to celebrate the barbering profession. Everyone was so happy to see and speak with each other again. The excitement was tangible and created a unique vibe in the three buildings comprising the Westergas event venue. BarberSociety Live, which many say is Europe’s best barber event, focuses on barbering and men’s hairdressing. It brings together barbers, educators and brands from around the world. In addition to multiple shows and brands represented at the event, the day featured two BarberSociety battles. Richard Gronas from Rotterdam (NL) won the international BarberSociety Battle and ROC Tilburg vocational college represented by Stan van Ballekom won the BarberSociety Young Talent Battle. BarberSociety Live 2022 was made possible by 1922 by J.M. Keune.

Photography: José Donatz Fotografie & Michael Joseph Productions

The BarberSociety Battles Brave students and barbers from the Netherlands and abroad battled it out for the glory and great prizes in the WesterUnie building of the Westergas event venue. Richard Gronas of Vagabond Barbers in Rotterdam (NL) took first place and can carry the title of BarberSociety Winner of the Year 2022 with pride. Two Greek participants won the second and third places. The BarberSociety Young Talent Battle, presented in partnership with the Dutch hairdressing colleges, was won by Stan van Ballekom representing ROC Tilburg college. This college also won the 2018 Young Talent Battle.

Wahl show

Winner Old School Scissor Cut BarberSociety Battle @vitoskeen_barber

REPORT REPO

A DAY FULL OF INSPIRATION

Winner 3rd prize BarberSociety Battle @tilemaxoscuts

Marc van de Hare and Miranda Vlas, the initiators and organisers of BarberSociety Live “After waiting for three years, we’re incredibly happy that we were finally able to present the fifth edition of BarberSociety Live. Due to the lockdown in January, it was a challenge to organise this edition. But by joining forces, we succeeded! We are grateful to our main sponsor 1922 by J.M. Keune who placed their trust in us. It was absolutely brilliant to see and speak with everyone from the barbering world again. So a big thanks goes to the visitors, the barbers who gave shows on stage,

Judge @_alanfindlay_

You could feel how happy everyone was to see each other and the energy was electrifying! We’ve received so much appreciation for the event and that makes us very proud. It was wonderful to see so many barbers, men’s hairdressers and other people interested in barbering connecting and learning from each other and being inspired by each other and exchanging their experiences. That’s why we love presenting this event!”

Team @barbersocietylive

the battle participants, our amazing presenter Chris Foster and the brands who together made this event such a success.

Seminar @theprofile.guy

Show Wahl feat. @giothenewkidofficial & @enesdogan_de

Show Great British Barber Bash feat. @brodiethebarber_ & @olliefosterhair

BEST BARBER EVENT OF EUROPE

@tilemaxoscuts

@geoffreykvot

Models Fran Aranda & Ismael de Mora

Show Barber College feat. @barber_djirlauw & @im.gimo

Show L3VEL3 feat. @drasticartbarbering & @cal_newsome

Participants BarberSociety Battle

Show Andis feat. @hayden_cassidy

Show @franaranda_ & @ismaeldemora_

Show @gentlemens.everydaybarber

75 75

Winners BarberSociety Young Talent Battle: ROC Tilburg with Stan van Ballekom (l), Barberschool Amsterdam with Pepijn van Rooijen (m) & Sylviën van Goorsel (r)

BarberSociety Young Talent winner @stanvballekom

Winner 3rd prize BarberSociety Young Talent Battle @sylffcuts_

Winner 2nd prize BarberSociety Young Talent Battle @peps.cutz

@richard_gronas

Presenter @theprofile.guy

BarberSociety Winner of the Year 2022 @richard_gronas

Winner 2nd prize BarberSociety Battle @nikolaitsirampidhs

@james_beaumont

Richard Gronas (28) of Vagabond Barbers in Rotterdam, the Netherlands, convincingly won the ‘BarberSociety Winner of the Year 2022’ title during the BarberSociety Battle powered by 1922 by J.M. Keune! As well as taking the top honour, he also won in the ‘cleanest fade’ and ‘freestyle’ categories, earning him €1,500 in prize money and swag boxes from sponsors worth nearly €2,500. Richard was up against competitors from Belgium, France, Germany and Greece, with two Greek barbers taking second and third place. Fun fact: one of Richard’s former employees, Vito Skeen, won in the ‘Old-School Scissor Cut’ category. The judging panel consisted of Alan Findlay from the UK, Hayden Cassidy from Ireland, and Cay Kleeven and Gio the New Kid from the Netherlands. “I think the BarberSociety Battle is the best of all the European barber battles.”

@richard_gronas @vagabond.rotterdam @barbersocietylive Photography: José Donatz Fotografie & Michael Joseph Productions

BARBERSOCIETY WINNER OF THE YEAR 2022

RICHARD GRONAS

REPORT

What made you choose barbering as a career?

“I can honestly say that barbering chose me! I was born in northern Hungary and I was 14 years old when I first started cutting hair. It happened more or less naturally, because in the neighbourhood where we lived there seemed to be only bad barbers. There was one old gentleman who was a legitimate, trained barber, and I thought he was just the greatest guy. All the men in the area would go to his barbershop for a shave or a haircut. But since genuinely skilled hairdressers were hard to find, I decided to start cutting my own hair. My parents would give me some money to get my hair cut, but I’d pocket that allowance and just do it myself. That’s how it all started, and I eventually started cutting all my family members’ hair as well. I guess you could say I taught myself the trade. The very first trimmers I ever owned were by Philips and came with just one

attachment. I’d play around with different techniques. Eventually I formally trained as a barber, and after completing my course, at age 17 I moved in with an uncle of mine in Barcelona. It just seemed like such a great city and I knew I wanted to live there. I had a hard time adjusting to life abroad at first, though – I was just a kid and didn’t even have a driving licence yet. I only managed to find part-time work as a barber.”

How did you end up in the Netherlands?

“That was because of my girlfriend – we’ve been together for nine years now. I met her back home in Hungary, but she’s been living in the Netherlands for the past 15 years. When the lease was up on my uncle’s place in Barcelona, my girlfriend asked me to move in with her at her place in Rotterdam. So that’s what I did – I was 20 years old at the time. Of course, I didn’t speak any Dutch back then, but I

did speak Spanish and a little English. Fortunately, I did manage to find work as a barber, though it wasn’t really what I was looking for. Over the years, I’ve worked in other people’s barbershops, rented chairs in a few places, and worked out of my home.”

Can you tell us a little more about your business, Vagabond Barbers, and how it all started?

“When I was 23, I decided to open my own barbershop, since I already had many regular clients at that point. I found a building in the Rotterdam city centre four years ago. I started out with just two chairs, bare walls, and nothing else. Fortunately, I was able to hire someone after being in business for two months. I knew I wanted someone who’d work for me directly rather than rent a chair in the shop, because in my experience that always leads to rivalry. I named my barbershop 81

You placed second in the Barber Battle Netherlands competition in 2019, and you recently won the first prize in the BarberSociety Battle 2022. What drives you to compete in these events?

Vagabond Barbers to set myself apart from all the so-called ‘gentlemen’s barbershops’ out there. No matter where you might travel in the world, you’ll always come across a couple of places that call themselves that. Vagabond, of course, means ‘tramp’ or ‘derelict’. I invested a lot of time and energy in my social media when I first started out, but I have since outsourced all that. I wanted Vagabond Barbers to be a completely original kind of place, and after a while I was able to install a bar in the barbershop, complete with a professional coffee machine and baristas. Clients pay for their drinks (coffee, soft drinks and beer) separately, but they don’t mind at all, as the prices are still lower than those at regular bars and restaurants. A lot of people even pop in just to have a drink, simply because they enjoy the vibe. I currently employ four professional barbers, two junior barbers and a barista, and we also work together indirectly with an artist who creates animations for my social media channels, as well as with a photographer, who also does stuff for our social media.” 82

What makes Vagabond Barbers so special?

“The quality of the service and the friendly and welcoming atmosphere. We invest a lot in delivering quality. When we hire a new person, they train with us for several weeks. I train them personally and make sure they learn all the skills they need. It’s also important that someone is a good fit socially. We’re all very close – we also hang out outside of work and like to party together. We make a lot of decisions together as a team, including who gets to be part of that team.”

What do you feel is important in the barbering business?

“Self-development – raising the bar a little each time and creating something that’s new and fun. We’re also involved in other projects. At one point we created a line of Vagabond shoes with our artist collaborators, and we’re currently developing our own fragrance line. We don’t have our own hair product range just yet – I want us to become a little bigger and more famous first.”

“I’d say it’s a combination of promotional reasons and to prove myself. Other than that, it’s a fun day out for the team. When I won second place in the Barber Battle Netherlands competition, I decided I wouldn’t stop until I got the first prize.”

How did you prepare for the competitions?

“I didn’t prepare at all in 2019, but I did for the BarberSociety Battle. I carefully read the terms and conditions and spent an entire week practising skin fades within the allotted time, as well as working on my cutting skills. I selected my models not only for their hairstyles, but also based on their appearance. We also put a lot of thought into the models’ outfits. We discussed the theme of the competition and scoured all these clothing shops so we could create the right look. Since the mullet is making a comeback, the timing seemed right to show that trend in the competition and combine it with a French crop. We reckoned it’d be a sure win. We really made all the decisions together as a team.”

What inspires you?

“Social media, where I follow other barbers – I pick up a lot of ideas from them. On our own socials, we try to show hairstyles with a little edge to them. That sort of thing will help you build your social media presence.”

Barbering chose me Were you nervous before the battle?

“Yes, I was a bit nervous on the day of, Sunday, April 10th, when the entire city of Rotterdam was closed off due to the marathon. I was stressed out because I wasn’t sure everyone would be able to make it to the meeting point in time. So, yes, I was a little tense before the competition, but my nerves went away instantly as soon as I started cutting. Everything went according to plan; things went very smoothly. Fortunately, none of my models got sick, because we didn’t have a plan B. We decided to go for broke!”

Which hairstyle did you most enjoy doing, and why?

“I thought the Freestyle hairstyle, with the festival styling and the ‘New Kid’ touch, was a lot of fun to do.”

Were you satisfied with your hairstyles?

“On the whole, yes. Although I could have done better on the skin fade.”

How did winning all those prizes make you feel?

“It was crazy – everybody in the room started shouting. I was already very happy to nab the first prize, but I never expected to win those other prizes too.”

What are your goals for the future?

“We want to train our own people, and once we have enough staff, we’d like to start our own school of barbering. Before the pandemic, we had plans to open a new branch in Barcelona. I still love the city – many of my relatives live there and I like the idea of working over there for a few months maybe three times a year. But Covid cost us dearly, so now we’re just waiting for the right time.”

BarberSociety Battle judge Alan Findlay What did you think of the Battles? I think this year’s battles were the closest competition yet with the overall skill level of the barbers at the highest level I’ve seen in my time with BSL. Why was Richard Gronas the winner in your opinion? I thought Richard really stood out because of his professionalism and high level of consistency

in each of the rounds. He will be someone whose career I’ll be following closely over the years. Tips? My tip to any future young barbers taking part in this great competition would be to take risks with their style choices as fortune always favours the brave. But most of all relax and enjoy the challenges of the battles. 83

@barbershopbest_barbers

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

IT’S ALL ABOUT REACHING YOUR FULL POTENTIAL 84

As a young boy, Dutch master barber Marc Michielse would empty ashtrays and sweep the floor in his father’s barbershop. Carrying the tradition into the next generation, he later helped his own son to set up a successful barbering business. At 53, he’s as passionate as ever about sharing his love of the trade with others.

Marc, three of your barbers have won awards in recent years. Does that make you proud? “Absolutely! I love sharing my knowledge with others and helping those guys to achieve professional success. Most people who work with us were trained in-house. We’ve had boys come in at age 13 or 14 who told me they wanted to be barbers, so I would let them do their thing for a few hours, give them a few pointers and put them through their paces, just to see if they had any potential. Jari is a good example. He joined our team, was competitive by nature, and was looking for a challenge. I showed him the lay of the land and helped him improve his skills. He won the BarberSociety Young Talent Award in 2018. Our Sanne took second place in 2019. Stan joined us when he was 14, and I mentored him as well. He competed in the Young Talent

Battle this year. Another first place! Of course, I couldn’t be more delighted.” How do you train your people? “The first question I always ask anyone who applies for a job with me is: ‘What drives you?’ Some will give you an answer that’s completely self-centred: ‘me, me, me.’ That’s when I know they have the wrong attitude, because in this business you have to leave your ego at the door and focus on making your clients happy. We want our customers to leave feeling proud, with a big smile on their face.” What is the rest of their training like? “Once I’ve seen someone in action for a couple of hours, I know whether or not they have what it takes. I always teach them the fundamentals first. If you’ve

got the basics down, you’re much more likely to excel. Styles and trends change all the time, so you need to be flexible in that sense. I tell people to take their comb, shears, and razor and practise, practise, practise. After a while, I’ll start noticing someone’s personal style shine through. They start to develop their own approach. That’s why everyone will get slightly different results – which is a good thing. One person might favour clean lines and tight fades, while others will go for softer lines. As they grow, up-andcoming stylists will start coming up with their own ideas and want to put them into practice. That means I keep learning all the time, too. We’ve got a team of highly driven people working together who keep each other on their toes. The business is very dynamic and always in flux, so you can’t afford to get complacent. It’s all about reaching your full potential.” You’re a second-generation barber yourself. How did it all get started? “My dad is the one who began the tradition: he became a hairdresser at the age of 13, in 1958. It was my granddad who pushed him into the business; my father’s real ambition was to go to art school, but my granddad’s barber said that no matter what happens in life, you could always make a living cutting hair. My dad really turned his work into his passion. He took part in a lot of competitions and demonstrations, so he found an outlet for his creativity in that way. He opened a salon called Salon Paul in 1973, and our family lived above the shop. It was a real old-school men’s barbershop. When I was about 13, I asked my dad if I could give him a hand. He said that was OK, but all he allowed me to do at that point was sweep the floor and empty ashtrays. Then, when I became a teenager, I started taking more of an interest in fashion and decided I wanted to be a barber too. That is now 40 years ago.” 85

How did you learn the trade? “By spending practically all my free time in my dad’s barbershop. I did get frustrated sometimes, like when the shops were open late, and all my friends were hanging around in town and I was stuck helping out. But there was a constant flow of customers coming in who needed haircuts. My father would watch me very closely on the job. He’d stand right behind me and grab my hand if he saw me holding the hairdryer the wrong way. He also spent a lot of time teaching at schools, and I would often join him. And he would attend training courses himself at night at these special associations for professional barbers. I always watched him closely, listened carefully, and improved my skills all the time. There were always people around looking for haircuts. From age 15 or 16, you could find me in the shop pretty much every day. My dad opened a second business, in the Dutch town of Oirschot, in 1989. I became manager of that shop the following year.” Your whole family seems to have a knack for teaching. Is it true that you also learned to cut women’s hair? “My dad wanted me to learn as many aspects of the business as possible, so, yes, I also started cutting women’s hair. I can say it’s definitely made me a better barber: since the techniques you use for women are completely different than for men, you learn to develop a much broader set of skills. Although I’ve personally always been more interested in the men’s side of the business.” Your son is currently the manager of your barbershop. How did that come about? “It’s kind of an unusual story. He was expelled from school for behavioural issues, but since he was still under the school-leaving age, they decided that he should become my ‘apprentice’, which meant gaining practical experience in the salon and attending school once a week 86

Jari (l) and Marc (r)

to report on the experience – although I don’t think he ever did that last part. One day the teacher phoned me and said: ‘Marc, are you missing some trimmers, by any chance? Your boy Tom has been shaving the heads of some of the pupils here in our gym.’ When I asked him why he was doing that, he said: ‘Those boys don’t have a lot of money, so I was just helping them out.’ He enjoyed doing it and told me: ‘I’d like to be a barber too, but not like you – I want to be like granddad.’ Tom ended up joining my business in 2012. In 2016, I opened a new business called Best Barbers. He currently manages that place, and I couldn’t be prouder of the work he’s doing over there. You can tell those guys have a real passion for the business, which is just so important. There’s no point in

doing something you have no interest in – you can only be good at things you enjoy. You want to run the kind of business where your people enjoy watching a football match together, like spending time with each other, get together for barbecues, and so on. That’s the kind of environment you want to cultivate.” You learned the trade from your father and then you passed on your knowledge to your son – would you say you’ve done things differently than your father? “It’s true that I’ve experienced the business from both sides of the fence – as trainee and trainer – and while my dad and I are definitely alike in some ways, there are also things I’ve chosen to do differently. For example, I consider employees to be my colleagues, whereas my dad referred to them as ‘staff.’

You need to do the kind of work you like talking about

Painting Salon Paul 70’s

Shop, 1973 I believe more in teamwork. He told me stories about his childhood: they wouldn’t stop working until the last customer had left the shop, and even then, they had to eat their dinner sitting on the stairs. Times have changed a lot since then.” You also run your own training academy, the Best Barbers Academy. Can you tell us a bit more about that? “I’ve always trained my own people. Sometimes I’d invest a lot of time in them, and then they’d leave for another job. That can be frustrating, of course. I would also receive a lot of requests to give evening training sessions. I decided to take a more professional approach to that side of the business and turn what I was doing into more of a commercial business model, which included creating my own brand.”

Shop, 1973

Greek Barber Festival Loutraki (GR), March 2022

Mark van Westerop, winner ‘Hairdresser of the Year 2022’ and Men category North of the Netherlands of the Coiffure Awards. With presenter Dionne Stax (l) and Marjon Stamsnijder (r), general manager Henkel Beauty Care Professional

Jody Bernal

Stylist Bastiaan van Schaik (r)

Barber Cay Kleeven (l) and BarberSociety founder Marc van de Hare (r)

Dutch singer Antoon

George Keune sr (m) of Keune Haircosmetics receives the ANKO Achievement Award from ANKO president Maurice Crusio (r)

Coiffure Award Gala Hilversum (NL), May 2022

Arjan Bevers (m), Winner Coiffure Award, Men category South of the Netherlands. With Dionne Stax (l) and Laura van de Graaf of Schwarzkopf Professional (r)

Show Spaghetti’s

Barber College Italië for BaByliss Pro

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Jay Nouri of L3VEL3 94

Spaghetti’s founder Tonino Esposito (r) with BarberSociety founder Marc van de Hare (l)

Gamma+ with Josh Lamonaca

Cella Milano with Daniël van der Putten

Spaghetti’s Barber team

Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna (IT), May 2022

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