BarberSociety Magazine International Winter 2019 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

INTERVIEW ADRIAN WOOD IF YOU CAN ONLY USE A PAIR OF CLIPPERS, YOU’RE GOING TO BE STUCK BARBERS & FRAGRANCES SCENTS BOOST THE PERCEIVED QUALITY OF THE SERVICE ARE YOU PROPERLY INSURED? INSURANCE AT A GLANCE

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must be spot on, with fragrance playing a key role in this overall perception. Francesco says fragrance is an experience that touches every part of a person; from memories to desires and from dreams to reality: ‘I believe fragrances are like the clothes you wear; there are as many men as there are fragrances.’ Read the full article on page 6. A new year buzzing with fresh opportunities and challenges is almost here! It’s clear to everyone: there is more competition than ever before. The number of barber shops worldwide keeps climbing. While it’s obviously great news that so many people are entering our fantastic profession, I also see a downside in the fact that too many are opening their own barber shops without having the necessary education and knowledge. It’s a development that degrades our profession because it means we don’t have a universal industry-wide quality standard in place. I discussed this topic with the legendary barbering icon Adrian Wood in New York. He has outspoken views on the matter and envisages major challenges ahead for the barbering industry. He makes an urgent plea for barbers to go beyond just knowing how to use clippers, saying they should learn all the different aspects of barbering. Read his fascinating views on the future of barbering in the ‘All in the family’ section. Italian master barber Francesco Cirignotta also sets the bar high and pursues perfection in everything he does. He believes clients today expect first-rate knowledge and quality; there is no room for amateurs. His mission is to provide his clients with a haven from the chaos of the outside world. The total experience

We’re surrounded by fragrances and they constitute a central part of clients’ experience in the barber shop. Fragrance expert Tanja Deurloo goes a step further by saying she’s convinced the fragrance in a retail outlet or barber shop determines how consumers experience the quality of the service. Tanja takes us on a fascinating journey through the world of fragrances. She also tells us a whale of a story about the world’s most extraordinary perfume ingredient and has curated a selection of unique exclusive fragrances especially for BarberSociety magazine readers. She’s adamant that that all fragrances are for men and women. It’s all about discovering the fragrance that appeals to you. This view is shared by Eelco Keune who recently developed an eau de toilette based on the fragrance featured in their men’s line 1922 by J.M Keune. Women often tell him that they love the men’s fragrance so much that they’ve started wearing it too. Read the story of the creation of this eau de toilette in this edition. Barber shops naturally also have their own distinctive fragrances connected with the products used in the shops. This became crystal clear when I visited some quintessentially English barber shops in London. Many of them are steeped in history and offer a wonderful array of scented hair care products. Check out the

Putting quality first

stunning photographs of these barber shops in the ‘Barbers & the city’ section and be sure to check out their tips if you’re planning a winter or Christmas break in London. This edition also looks at a more serious topic: insurance. We’ll soon be ringing in the new year and now is a good time to assess whether you are properly insured. We’re providing an overview of the main types of insurance and information on several forms of insurance that I hadn’t previously considered. And last but not least, you can read all about our exciting plans for celebrating the 5th anniversary of BarberSociety Live! The 2020 edition will be held on Saturday, 16 May and Sunday, 17 May. Barber Lillu Schneiker, who is featured in this edition’s ‘Barber Babe’ section, has already picked up prizes in battles at two editions of BarberSociety Live! She explains that she participates in battles in order to find out how her colleague barbers handle different situations. What’s more, she views battles as an educational experience and an opportunity to learn from other professionals. Will you rise to the challenge of taking part in the battle at BarberSociety Live 2020? I wish you a creative, inspiring and successful New Year brimming with fresh challenges and opportunities!

Marc van de Hare BarberSociety Founder P.S. Tickets to BarberSociety Live will go on sale at www.barbersocietylive.com in late December. We look forward to seeing you in Amsterdam on Saturday, 16 May and/or Sunday, 17 May 2020! 3

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AROMA THERAPY & FRAGRANCES IN THE BARBER SHOP Interview with Francesco Cirignotta

BARBERS & FRAGRANCES SPECIAL B rand Bite: the new fragrance from 1922 by J.M. Keune 10 I nterview with fragrance expert Tanja Deurloo 14 S election of ‘masculine’ fragrances 16

Collection: BLUE Hair: Olga García (ES), @peluqueriaolgagarcia Photography: David Arnal, @davidarnalteam MUA: Wilder Rodríguez, @wildvandijk Styling: Aaron Gil, @aaron_gil_Styling

TRENDS Daniel Rymer, Christabel Legrand & Luka Chitty, David Soriano, Carlos Valiente, Fran Aranda, Pelsynera, Antonio Calvo & Pedro Muñoz, Andrea Raymond, Makeover, David Pastor, Borja Carbonell, Paco López, Manuel Ferreres, Jordi Pérez, Sergio Molina Fernández, James Beaumont & Robert Braid, Sid Sottung, Alan Beak, Jose Urrutia, Olga García

PRODUCT NEWS G rooming, Fragrances, Lifestyle, In Shop W in a great prize

DO YOU HAVE THE INSURANCE YOU NEED? A quick guide to insurance

BARBERS & THE CIT Y London

ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Adrian Wood

THIS BARBER POLE IS TRAVELLING TO... Barber events

BARBERSOCIET Y LIVE 2020 – 5TH EDITION Looking back and looking forward

BARBER BABE Interview with Lillu Schneiker

CHRIS FOSTER COLUMN The € 1,000 haircut

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Editorial Team Miranda Vlas, Marit Heemskerk, press@barbersociety.com Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam, Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 / www.barbersociety.com ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

INTERV IEW

SCENTS ARE AN EXPERIENCE THAT INVOLVES THE WHOLE HUMAN BEING

INTERVIEW FRANCESCO CIRIGNOTTA

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think I ever became a barber; the way I operate is very different from everyone else 6

AROMATHERAPY & SCENTS IN THE BARBER SHOP Francesco was born into a real barber family in Milan. His father was a barber and so was his cousin. Both are still working in the same old barber shop where Francesco grew up. Unlike his family members, he decided to study law and he got a degree in accounting. But Francesco was restless and couldn’t find his ideal job. Immediately after his study, he worked as an accountant, but that didn’t satisfy him. So he tried his luck as a bricklayer and later as a farmer. His father saw his struggle and in the end he asked him why he didn’t want to take a try at barbering. This time he was keen and listened to his father. After trying all those other jobs, he realized that he wanted to become a craftsman as this appealed to his idea of the artisan concept. But being Francesco, he could never do things half. So he thoroughly studied the history and psychology of the barber trade and became skilled at marketing as well. Now he decided to become a barber, he wanted to be the best he possibly could. The rest is history, Francesco has found his own way to be a barber and is now working in the trade for 22 years. The barber shop of Francesco Cirignotta has become a well-known hotspot in Milan. 7

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Future plans In the near future Francesco wants to dedicate himself more to educating other barbers and share his knowledge. In the meantime, he is dedicated to refine his treatments even further and commit himself to offer the absolute best for his customers. Being the perfectionist he is, we are sure he will manage to set the bar to its highest level possible!

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For me perfumes are like the clothes you wear; there are as many men as there are fragrances. Important factors are the emotional state, mood of the moment, environment, temperature and so on. The fragrance someone wears should suit the person and the moment. My personal favourites are patchouli and sandal scents. In these scents I recognize a male soul.”

room for amateurs anymore.” It may be clear that men want to visit barber shops and do pay attention to their grooming routine. Today, more than ever, consumers demand personalized service and pick the place where they feel the most connection. Barbering is done by humans and the barbers in the shop really make the difference. Francesco: “When you don’t stick to the pre-packaged rules and focus on customized solutions, you can truly deliver a high quality experience to your guests. I give my customers the attention that I would like to receive myself when I would visit a barber shop. The whole experience should be right; the music, the lighting, the drinks and the products you offer. My product choice reflects what I believe in; scents derived from natural ingredients, organic and biodynamic products with respect for nature. I could never work with anything that endangers the environment and I am a firm believer in sustainability. This choice I made years ago, long before sustainable beauty became a hot topic. With my barber shop I want to offer my guests an escape from the chaos of the outside world.”

About scents For Francesco, scents are an experience that involves the whole human being; from memories to desires, from dreams to reality. Francesco: “Well-being can be both listening to music or being alone in stillness. The treatments I offer are personalised for each customer as each person has different needs and wishes. The same applies to perfumes, what someone likes is very personal.

Evolution of the barber shop Francesco has seen the barber trade evolve over the years. “Men want to get the best grooming treatments in slow motion. They want their ‘me time’ and expect skilled and competent craftsmen who know what they are doing. Today’s customers expect real skills and quality, there is no

My treatments are personalised for each customer as each person has different needs and wishes Francesco: “My father gave me the best advice when he told me I should never become a barber according to what others might think a barber should be. By then I worked in his barber shop and he observed my way of working. He was so right! So I therefore don’t think I ever became a barber. Of course, I have a barber shop but the way I operate is so different from everyone else. The services and treatments I offer are a result of my detailed analysis of what I think is good for my guests. The only thing I have in common with other barbers is the craftsmanship of the hair cuts and shaves. But for me it is more important HOW I do things, not WHAT I do. It is not a matter of being better or worse than the rest, I just see myself as different. That’s all.”

One single chair Another choice Francesco made was to have only one chair in his barber shop. He explains: “The service industry today is very hectic and customers are often being treated as a number and not as an individual. I think my customers deserve a personalised treatment. I have developed my vision of wellness treatments over the years and by now I think my format is almost complete.”

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SPECIAL BARBERS

BR AND BITE

Eelco Keune

FRAGRANCES EVOKE EMOTIONS AND MEMORIES

Our ability to smell is our most dominant sense. The sensation of smell is very personal and that’s why it is so difficult to explain a scent to someone else. This is because our ability to smell is connected directly to the part of our brain in which we form our emotions and memories. This explains why scents are frequently connected with memories. Examples include the scent of oven-baked bread or freshly-cut grass, which will evoke very different associations in different people. Scents are everywhere and constitute an important part of the client’s experience at the barber shop. This is why it’s imperative to ensure that the scents in the shop match the target group to a tee. 10

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Jan Keune 1922 Signature fragrance A great deal of attention was paid to the brand’s signature scent when developing the men’s line 1922 by J.M Keune. Large numbers of men love this scent and that’s why recently is decided to add an eau de toilette to the range as Keune’s first fragrance. Eelco Keune joined forces with his father to develop this eau de toilette. George Keune Sr. has over the past 70 years grown the company into what it is today. His son Eelco joined the company several years ago and is responsible for many of the innovations that have been implemented at the company since his appointment. Eelco explains why they have taken the step of creating their own fragrance. Eelco: “We received lots of positive reactions, particularly regarding the fragrance, immediately after we launched our men’s line. That’s why we decided to introduce this fragrance to the market. What’s striking is that women love the fragrance on men so much that I’ve heard that they start wearing it themselves. My father designed the packaging and I was responsible for designing the fragrance,

so the process was conducted n true family business fashion. The 1922 line is a tribute to my grandfather. He started out as a pharmacist in central Amsterdam and worked as a barber during his military service. I honestly don’t think there are many brands with such a rich history that are still owned by the family. We used ‘nostalgia’ as the key term for the development of this fragrance. I’m delighted with the result and am pleased that so many other people are too. All the packaging is based on the apothecary jars my grandfather and grandmother used in the pharmacy. This signature bottle is featured in all the lines, albeit it in a form that is adapted slightly to match the product.”

It’s striking that women love the fragrance on men so much that they start wearing it themselves Men & convenience Will this eau de toilette be a stand-alone or are more fragrances in the pipeline? Eelco explains that they’ve already received lots of requests to expand the line to include a wider range of fragrance products. Eelco: “Men are generally convenience shoppers. If a guy needs a new pair of jeans, he’ll buy three pairs at once. I’m not a big fan of shopping and the same goes for cosmetics. So if a man is introduced to a product or fragrance that he likes by his barber, he will have a high degree of willingness to buy everything in the same line, from deodorant to moisturizer. So who knows what’s next.”

Atse Korndorffer

The development of a fragrance But how does a fragrance come about? We asked Atse Korndorffer, Head of Research & Development at Keune. Atse explains: “There’s always an air of excitement surrounding fragrances and that’s why it’s so much fun to be involved in this process. We’re obviously not a fragrance house, but we do work closely with a number of leading fragrance houses. The first step

consequently entails finding a fragrance house that is the best match with the type of fragrance you want to develop. For this eau de toilette we collaborated with a fragrance house in Grasse, France, which is the cradle of perfumery. The fragrance was developed in consultation with Eelco and George Keune. You first explore fragrance notes and the fragrance is then gradually refined. While in this case we, of course, already had a scent that went with the products in the entire line. But the development of an eau de toilette goes beyond that, which is why the scent had to be further developed. Eau de toilette is alcohol based and this means you must discover how the scent can be brought out as effectively as possible. An alcohol base gives the fragrance a different character than when it is used in a shampoo for example. We developed the fragrance from the 1922 line completely. To do this, we selected a number of fragrances from the market and then passed on this information in the briefing to the fragrance house with the message ‘we like these scents.’

They were scents with a warm character, with a slightly leather scent with musk and herb tones. The fragrance house then makes a number of proposals. They are then presented to a test panel that assesses the fragrance. The test panel is comprised of barbers, consumers and women. Women are included on the panel because they’re the ones who often buy a fragrance for the men in their lives. These panel tests are crucially important, particularly because fragrances are so personal, it is sometimes difficult to remain objective and we naturally want to develop a fragrance that appeals to our target group. It is also important that you test internationally, given that the brand is available in 75 countries and you don’t want to appeal only to the Dutch market. We send out around 50 samples in total. Then we make a number of products containing the scent and have them tested as well. In the case of hair products, it’s vital that the scent isn’t too overpowering because this would be unpleasant for people who must work with the product all day. Once a fragrance has come about, a dermatological assessment is made. This is because you obviously want to be sure that the fragrance does not cause skin irritations. Each individual product is subsequently tested extensively before it is introduced to the market.” Sustainability Sustainability has also been taken into consideration, which is fortunately now often the case in the cosmetics industry. Atse: “The raw materials we have selected have been assessed according to their biodegradability. If there are palm oil-based ingredients, we first check whether they are from certified sources.” The nose It all comes down to the nose when developing a fragrance.

Familiar fragrances Atse: “Choosing a fragrance is very personal. There is such a wide variety of fragrances and what one person finds delightful

More information www.1922.keune.com

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another finds despicable. It often relates to emotion and how you feel at that moment. This is how an anosmia sufferer, who has lost their sense of smell, describes it: ‘Scent has a huge impact on your emotional life, without familiar scents your house would no longer really feel like your home.’ Barber shops naturally also have their own specific scents. In fact, a scent is the first thing a client experiences when entering the shop.” Eelco believes a scent says something about someone’s personality: “That’s why we think it’s such an honour if someone chooses our signature fragrance from the vast range of fragrances available on the market!”

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While it is possible to develop this organ, it can only be developed to a certain extent. So it is with good reason that ‘the noses’ of the fragrance houses are so famous, because it really is an innate talent. Atse: “You’ve got to have a good nose in order to be able to make a fragrance. My experience is that you can train your nose to have a more refined sense of smell, but at the end of the day it’s a gift that you either have or don’t. We also see this in our test panel; some people can instantly distinguish a fragrance, while others have difficultly even describing a fragrance.”

INTERV IEW

INTERVIEW WITH FRAGRANCE EXPERT TANJA DEURLOO

SCENTS CAN BOOST THE PERCEIVED QUALITY OF THE SERVICE

Fragrance expert Tanja Deurloo (53) is the founder of ‘Annindriya’ and ‘Perfume Lounge’. She develops fragrances for companies in association with Annindriya. Perfume Lounge is Amsterdam’s go-to place for extraordinary perfumes and personal advice. Tanja Deurloo, who studied chemistry at Utrecht University (the Netherlands), has been fascinated by the senses of smell, taste and touch since childhood. “I was interested in the senses as a child, I was always spreading, mixing and stirring something. That’s why my dream was to work in the broad field of fragrances and cosmetics, as long as it was somehow related to skincare and the senses.”

Specialising in fragrance Tanja has been working in the field for nearly 30 years. She started in skincare and haircare and in her role as a chemist she provided vitamin E, emulsifiers and aromatic substances to suppliers and business-tobusiness customers. “When I turned 40, I thought: ‘I’ve got to start doing what I excel at the most.’ So I decided to specialise in fragrances and to start working for myself. For the first few years, I worked exclusively as a freelancer. I then took the step of starting Annindriya. Three years after establishing Annindriya, I opened the Perfume Lounge, which celebrated its 10th anniversary in October of this year.”

Perfume designer “I’m a perfume designer and work for business-to-business clients. In this role, I create fragrances for various brands, including body care products for Marie Stella Maris and fragrances for the Hunkemöller stores. I also develop completely new perfume lines, such as the fragrance lines for the Salle Privée menswear brand. My shop manager Phine and I jointly developed two special fragrances for Annindriya’s 10th anniversary. They both feature our favourite ingredients: leather and iris. While there are lots of other ingredients I love, Phine and I agree that these two are our favourite chords. We asked ourselves: what scent would come about if you were to combine the feel of silk and

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Do what I excel at the most

All fragrances are for men and women leather on bare skin? We tried to capture this scent together with Italian perfumer Francesca Bianchi. This process of free inspiration, of exploring how to combine leather with, for example, bare skin is both artistic and intimate and sensual.” “I’m committed to serving as the link for clients, I translate their brand into a fragrance. This centres on the brand personality expressed in scent. Fragrance can be the most personal accessory. How do you translate who you aspire to be or who you are in fragrance? This is exactly the same for both business clients and consumers. I wanted to place this advice in the limelight and focus on the fundamental question: ‘Which fragrance suits me the best?’ A unique collection Tanja says she believes it is very important for Dutch brands to

be given a platform. “Sure there are other perfumeries in the Netherlands. But it really bothered me that people couldn’t get high-quality advice in this country. So everybody ends up wearing more or less the same fragrance.” That is at the heart of the distinctiveness of Perfume Lounge: the personal advice and the collection. “Our collection is genuinely unique. With only a very few exceptions, the collection is made up of brands that aren’t available anywhere else – not even at other specialised shops. The collection is comprised of independent perfumers on the one hand. They are niche avant-garde brands that truly present something extraordinary, something artisanal. The collection is comprised on the other hand of iconic brands with a glorious past that have faded into the background and are no longer available anywhere else in the Netherlands.”

Bespoke advice “We specialise in providing bespoke fragrance advice. We also give people the opportunity to discover their fragrance as part of a 90-minute workshop.” It’s consequently clear Deurloo’s mission is to help clients discover the perfume that suits them best, which could be a fragrance from her own collection or from a different collection. “You can describe it as a kind of perfume wardrobe.” She also compose tailor-made unique perfumes, but unfortunately not everyone can enjoy the luxury of this exclusive experience due to the expense. Craftsmanship “This is a craft, just like barbering.” Tanja performs this craft in her own way. She follows her own inspiration or is briefed by a client. A client requests a fragrance and she composes the scent entirely in line with the brand’s identity. “I formulate a sensory profile for the brand in order to gain a crystal-clear associative understanding of it. And it goes without saying that it’s pivotally important to always keep in mind the product for

A selection of ‘masculine’ fragrances curated by Tanja Deurloo and available at Perfume Lounge. Decadent powerful brimful of precious woods, armagnac and spices, just arrived! 6th fragrance from Dutch luxury men’s wear Salle Privée. A powerful intense eau de parfum, that will turn heads and leaves a signature trail. After the vivid and boozy opening the luxurious elegant heart unfolds, expressing noble precious ingredients and luscious materials as velvet and gold. This masculine, extrovert creation is exceptionally decadent with a subtle raw and dirty touch. Truly seductive and addictive, truly aero erotic. An homage to vanished elegance of traveling... Created by perfume designer Tanja Deurloo.

CONCORDE SALLE PRIVÉE 16

“You keep modifying it until you’re satisfied. Plus, you must complete a range of other steps in between. Is the packaging stable? Does it spray well? Is it safe for use on skin? Does

A unique ingredient She had a once-in-a-lifetime experience five years ago. “A dead sperm whale with 83 kilos of ambergris in its stomach washed up on the beach of the Dutch island of Texel. Ambergris is a very valuable raw material used in perfumes. I was then asked to assess the quality of the ambergris and explore opportunities to sell it. Due to the exceptionally good quality, it was possible to sell it for a very large sum. While I’m not at liberty to state the actual amount, I can tell you that 83 kilos of ambergris fetched between 500,000 and 1 million euros. The proceeds of the sale went to Ecomare and were used to build a new wing. I’d only ever seen ambergris in small jars before. So it was the first time in my career in the industry that fresh ambergris harvested from the stomach of the sperm whale was used. Ambergris is normally found on the beach after it has been

Uomo is an impeccable classic men’s fragrance: citrus, spicy, woody. The ultimate classic Italian fragrance with strong associations to an artisanal barber shop. Also available as aftershave and soap. Created by award winning perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi.

UOMO LORENZO VILLORESI

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“A fragrance can consist of more than 100 ingredients. I have a choice of 3,100 notes, which I can combine into chords. I then make a creation. With a very minimalistic approach, around ten ingredients are used, while on average 80 to 100 ingredients are used. What’s decisively important is the aroma at the beginning and at the end. On the one hand it’s a very creative and artisanal process. But on the other hand, it’s a highly technical process because it must be stable, while also taking the fading and changing of the fragrance into account. So as you can see, you definitely need to use the right side of your brain as well.”

it fulfil all the increasingly stringent legal requirements? Is it in line with the costs we are willing to spend? What is the story you want to tell?”

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which I’m developing the fragrance. Is it a perfume or a shaving soap? You must adapt the ingredients to the product. The budget also plays a role in this respect of course.”

excreted by whales and sperm whales. One lucky person came across these ambergris stones on the beach by chance hundreds of years ago. The stones emit a very strong odour. The person who found it crushed it and used it as an ingredient in perfume. What made him think of that? It’s so expensive because only 1% of all male whales and sperm whales have ambergris in their stomachs. The fact that only 1 in 200 of these animals carry this substance makes whale hunting aimed at ambergris fortunately pointless and it is thankfully forbidden.” Fragrances for men Tanja believes fragrances are both cultural and a marketing concept. “Whether a fragrance is seen as being for men or women comes down partly to pure marketing. What matters in the end, is how you experience the fragrance. My view is that all fragrances are for men and women. But having said that, fragrances aren’t, however, unisex. Whether you experience a fragrance as masculine or feminine depends on the association with your own memories and where you were born. If you’re an Arab for example, you might think a rose

scent is masculine because men in the region often wear rose scents. In contrast, we consider rose scents to be very feminine in the Western culture. So it’s determined partially by culture and partially be marketing.” The scent of a barber shop Perfume Lounge is not divided into a men’s and women’s section. “There are fragrances within the Western culture that are perceived as being ‘more masculine’: wood, herbs, leather and a hint of citrus. These are also the scents that I distinctly associate with a barber shop. They start fresh and polished, an air of masculinity, with an undertone of wood. A combination of citrus and woody, which can ultimately also be leathery.” Trends in fragrances “We’re currently emerging from a period characterised by lots of sweet scents, both for men and women. As a countermovement, we’re now in a period predominated by a very minimalistic vibe. Fragrances that consist of only a couple of ingredients. Very streamlined fragrances. A minimalistic fragrance includes only one ingredient such as: soap

with only salt, music with just one tone or a painting with only one colour. It has something highly abstract. You realise a sort of impression, not a creation. These minimalistic fragrances evoke a great deal of admiration in people. There are also always all kinds of extreme trends such as asphalt, petrol and birch-and-tar. You name it! It’s not just about following a trend; it’s all about building a ‘fragrance wardrobe’. This means having a choice of fragrances because they match a role: What will I be doing today? Or they match a season: You can feel like enveloping and warm fragrances in the winter or an invigorating fragrance in the summer. Or you can choose a fragrance to match your mood: celebratory, modest or business.” The fragrance experience in your own business “The most important thing is that you’re aware of the effect a fragrance has. What is the scent in my business? Fragrance experience is so important because the effect has an impact on the perception of everything that happens within the shop. It’s particularly important that there aren’t any

Haute parfum by haute couturier for men Marc-Antoine Barrois. Haute couture, haute parfum, a magical and pleasant scent with notes of spices, leather and wood. I like the raw and yet so chic aspect of the perfume: a very refined and wild fragrance.” - Quentin Bisch, the perfumer

B683 MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS 18

More information www.perfumelounge.eu

The timeless, enveloping aroma of tobacco and leather. Notes of woods, citrus fruits and wild herbs on a gentle and sensual background of vanilla and patchouli, amber and musk. Created by award winning perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi.

ATMAN XAMAN LORENZO VILLORESI

“Verona 1937. From his small perfume shop in downtown Verona, Pietro Rubini supplied colognes and brilliantines to the local barbershops.” Fundamental is in a class of its own: notes of wood and leather and the full fragrance of sun-drenched grapes. Flamboyant, multi-layered, exciting and exceptional. Available in a unique packaging made of two blocks of cement-like material. Art, design, architecture and fragrance fuse with Fundamental to create one distinct whole. Developed by chemist and perfumer Cristiano Canali in association with perfume designer Ermano Picco for the Rubini house.

FUNDAMENTAL RUBINI

special barbers & fragrances special

play both a conscious and subconscious role. You can use fragrances to improve the perception of your shop. If the care products your use in your business have a specific aroma, you automatically already have a dominant fragrance in the shop, which eliminates the need for fragrance machines, fragrance diffusers and room sprays.”

special barbers & fragrances special

foul or unpleasant odours in a shop. You can determine the ambience by carefully choosing the fragrances of your products. The fragrance in the air determines how people experience the quality of the service. Do I experience the shop as high-quality or hip or edgy? If you have your own business, it’s important that your clients recognise you (branding) – the fragrance must be the same if your customers visit your shop a second or third time. Fragrances

DANIEL RYMER

Collection: Mustard Hair & Styling: Daniel Rymer (UK) Photography: Lel Burnett Make-Up: Danny Williams @daniel_rymer

UNITED KINGDOM

Hair: Luka Chitty (UK) Colour: Christabel Legrand for Pulp Riot (UK) Mua: Danny Williams, @dannywilliamsmua Model: Ry Hampson, @ryyhampson Photography: Pooch Purtill, @poochpurtillphotography Colour products: Pulp Riot, @pulpriot.uk @lukachitty, @christabel_legrand

FOR PULP RIOT

CHRISTABEL LEGRAND & LUKA CHITTY

UNITED KINGDOM

DAVID SORIANO

Hair: David Soriano (ES) Photography: David Arnal Make Up: Karen Ramirez Styling: NÃºria Jimenez Products: Label M @mr.outfit_bcn

SPAIN

Hair: David Soriano (ES) Photography: David Arnal Make Up: Karen Ramirez Styling: NĂşria Jimenez Products: Label M @mr.outfit_bcn

CARLOS VALIENTE

Collection: M2 Hair: Carlos Valiente (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Salones Carlos Valiente MUA: Nacho Sanz @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

Collection: M2 Hair: Carlos Valiente (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Salones Carlos Valiente MUA: Nacho Sanz @saloncarlosvaliente

FRAN ARANDA

Hair & Styling: Fran Aranda (ES) Photographer: David Arnal, @davidarnalteam Clothing: ASOS @franaranda_

SPAIN

Hair & Styling: Fran Aranda (ES) Photographer: David Arnal, @davidarnalteam Clothing: ASOS @franaranda_

PELSYNERA

Collection: Minibeat Hair & Styling: Pelsynera (ES) Photography: Oliver Viladoms Studio MUA: Pelsynera @pelsynera

SPAIN

Collection: Minibeat Hair & Styling: Pelsynera (ES) Photography: Oliver Viladoms Studio MUA: Pelsynera @pelsynera

THE NETHERLANDS

ANTONIO CALVO & PEDRO MUÑOZ

Collection: Mukal Hair: Antonio Calvo and Pedro Muñoz (ES) Photography: Antonio Calvo MUA: Maria Freire @antoniocalvoestilistas, @pedro_j_munoz

SPAIN

Collection: Wahl Centenary Hair: Andrea Raymond for Wahl (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @andrea_lynne_hair www.wahl.co.uk

FOR WAHL

ANDREA RAYMOND

UNITED KINGDOM

MAKEOVER

Collection: Simple Hair: Makeover, Hairdressers @josemakeover @eva_makeover_ (ES) Photography: David Arnal, @davidarnalteam MUA: Eva Quilez, @evaqmakup Styling: Aaron Gil, @aaron_gil_Styling Products: Schwarzkopf Professional @makeoverlogrono

SPAIN

DAVID PASTOR

Collection: DerivĂŠ Hair: David Pastor (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca, @esteban_roca_photo MUA: Nacho Sanz, @nachosanz_makeup Styling: Salones CV, @saloncarlosvaliente @davidpastor14 @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

BORJA CARBONELL

Collection: Metal Hair: Borja Carbonell (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Alba Garcia (Cache Croche) MUA: Borja Carbonell @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

Collection: Metal Hair: Borja Carbonell (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Alba Garcia (Cache Croche) MUA: Borja Carbonell @saloncarlosvaliente

PACO Lร PEZ

Collection: Ginger Hair & MUA: Paco Lรณpez (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Visori Fashionart @thebarbershopbypacolopez

SPAIN

Collection: Ginger Hair & MUA: Paco Lรณpez (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Visori Fashionart @thebarbershopbypacolopez

MANUEL FERRERES

Collection: John Hair: Manuel Ferreres (ES) Artistic direction: Salón FIVE Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Ban & Ro MUA: Elisa Cabañero @salonfive.pro

SPAIN

Collection: John Hair: Manuel Ferreres (ES) Artistic direction: Salón FIVE Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Ban & Ro MUA: Elisa Cabañero @salonfive.pro

JORDI PÉREZ

Collection: Multiverse Hair: Jordi Pérez, La Barberia de Gràcia (ES) Photography: Sergi Jasanada MUA: Mónica Martínez Costumes: Ángel Cabezuelo @labarberia

SPAIN

Collection: Multiverse Hair: Jordi Pérez, La Barberia de Gràcia (ES) Photography: Sergi Jasanada MUA: Mónica Martínez Costumes: Ángel Cabezuelo @labarberia

VOOR PELSYNERA

SPAIN

Collection: Ten Hair: Sergio Molina Fernรกndez voor Pelsynera (ES) Photography: Oliver Viladoms Studio Styling & MUA: Pelsynera @hairsergiomolina @pelsynera

SERGIO MOLINA FERNร NDEZ

Collection: Ten Hair: Sergio Molina Fernรกndez voor Pelsynera (ES) Photography: Oliver Viladoms Studio Styling & MUA: Pelsynera @hairsergiomolina @pelsynera

JAMES BEAUMONT & ROBERT BRAID

Collection: B Collective Hair: James Beaumont & Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oaks Models: Dennis French, Russel Bristow, Phil Ferrer, Mike Robin Esposito @James_beaumont, @r.braid

UNITED KINGDOM

Collection: B Collective Hair: James Beaumont & Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oaks Models: Dennis French, Russel Bristow, Phil Ferrer, Mike Robin Esposito @James_beaumont, @r.braid

SID SOTTUNG

Hair: Sid Sottung (UK) Support: Salon Kult (St. Petersburg) Photography: Julia Shok Products: Andis, Redken @sidsottunghair

UNITED KINGDOM

Hair: Alan Beak (UK) Photography: Abe Neihum, @abeneihum Model: Vini Fiuza, @vinifiuza @alan_beak

ALAN BEAK

UNITED KINGDOM

JOSE URRUTIA

Collection: 70’s Hair & photography: Jose Urrutia (ES) Styling: Karmen Ramírez Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

SPAIN

Collection: 70’s Hair & photography: Jose Urrutia (ES) Styling: Karmen Ramírez Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia

OLGA GARCÍA

Collection: BLUE Hair: Olga García (ES) Photography: David Arnal, @davidarnalteam MUA: Wilder Rodríguez, @wildvandijk Styling: Aaron Gil, @aaron_gil_Styling @peluqueriaolgagarcia

SPAIN

Collection: BLUE Hair: Olga García (ES) Photography: David Arnal, @davidarnalteam MUA: Wilder Rodríguez, @wildvandijk Styling: Aaron Gil, @aaron_gil_Styling @peluqueriaolgagarcia

SAVE THE DATE

AMSTERDAM / GASHOUDER, WESTERGAS / ONLINE TICKET SALES START END OF 2019 BARBERSOCIETYLIVE / @BARBERSOCIETYLIVE / WWW.BARBERSOCIETYLIVE.COM

GROOMING

18.21 MAN MADE SPICE VANILLA WASH This wash cleans, strengthens and moisturizes from head to toe. The skin feels natural, the hair becomes flexible, remains firm and gets a light shine. Free from sulphates and parabens. Available in 530 ml (retail) and 950 ml (salon) sizes. More information www.1821manmade.eu

AMERICAN CREWÂŽ ACUMEN EYE ENERGIZING HYDRATING GEL The skin around the eyes is thinner and more vulnerable and deserves the appropriate attention. Acumen knows exactly how to respond to these needs with its Eye Energizing Hydrating Gel. This gel, applied with a handy cooling roller, reduces the signs of fatigue (such as puffiness), strengthens and moisturizes the skin. It is by far one of the bestsellers of the Acumen line! More information www.americancrew.com

You can now give iconic looks a modern twist thanks to this expansion of the 1922 by J.M. Keune range. More information www.1922.keune.com

GROOMING

1922 BY J.M. KEUNE STYLING ESSENTIALS

DEPOT NO. 107 WHITE CLAY SEBUM CONTROL SHAMPOO

1922 by J.M. Keune is launching three new styling essentials. They’ve been especially designed to enable you to perfectly create today’s popular looks: 1. Matte Measure extra hold styling cream 2. Tough Texture volumizing spray 3. Tinted Dust volume powder

White clay sebum control shampoo for greasy scalp and hair. Formulated to counteract the discomfort of excessively greasy hair. It reverses the discomfort of greasy hair. It has a balanced cleansing action, regulating sebum, reducing toxins and neutralizing unpleasant odours of the scalp. More information www.depotmaletools.com

FRAGRANCES

At the Barberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scent evokes the memory of an invigorating masculine ritual: the sounds and sensations encountered at a local barber shop. At the Barberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is a true balance between aromatic and woody notes. Its freshness is made up with tonka beans, white musk, black pepper, rosemary, lavender and basil

accord. Focus on the orchestrated ballet of gestures: a shaving brush is soaked with soapsuds before the blade slides jerkily over the skin. The trendy vintage ritual ends with the soft rustling of a warm white towel on the cheeks. More information www.debijenkorf.nl

ESSENTIAL PARFUMS - MON VETIVER

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, REPLICA - AT THE BARBER'S EAU DE TOILETTE

Mon Vetiver by Essential Parfums is a perfume with modern elegance, built of vetiver and gin accord. A meeting of character, with woody and aromatic accents. Charismatic and elegant, this composition centers the natural essence of Haitian vetiver. Accents of natural lavandin and genitan spike even more interest, intensified with facets of cashmere wood and natural Indonesian patchouli. More information www.skins.nl/en/

SMOKE SHOW VILHELM Vibrant spotlights, smoky rooms, simmering jazz...emotion compressed into a few yearning notes. Leather and rose take center stage with base notes of agarwood, vetiver and saffron. More information www.skins.nl/en/

FRAGRANCES

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

A fresh, sophisticated and timeless fragrance for refined and successful men who love tradition. This fragrance fuses top notes of sun-soaked Sicilian citrus fruits with a harmonious melange of flower essences including lavender and Damascus roses and woody base notes of vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli. More information www.debijenkorf.nl

BURNING BARBER SHOP DS

A fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla & lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this. Top: spearmint, lime, hemlock spruce. Heart: lavender, absolute, turkish rose. Base: burnt oil, vanilla, hay More information www.skins.nl/en/

LIFESTYLE

1 Knitted tie - E.L. Cravatte Knitted camel necktie www.ties4him.co.uk

2 Checkered bow tie - E.L. Cravatte Beige- dark blue www.bowties4him.co.uk 3 Wool bow tie - E.L. Cravatte Checkered bow tie - brown/fuchsia www.bowties4him.co.uk 4 Leather Suspenders - Wiseguy Suspenders Crazy Horse, dark brown www.mensbraces4him.co.uk 5 Cufflinks - E.L. Cravatte Cufflinks Deer www.cufflinks4him.co.uk 6 Red tie - E.L. Cravatte Satin-silk necktie www.ties4him.co.uk

WIN A CAST IRON UTILITY BAG

The distinctive design and features of the legendary Ford Mustang capture the imagination of men around the world. Cast Iron is paying tribute to this style icon on wheels and is introducing a new collection entirely in the spirit of this classic. Robust and masculine are the core descriptors of Cast Iron. A premium denim brand that always focusses on pure craftsmanship, timeless style and high-quality materials.

To take part in this competition, send an email stating why you would like to win this roll-up utility bag to info@barbersociety.com by 15 January 2020. Be sure to include your name and address contact details. Five lucky winners of the Cast Iron roll-up utility bag will be selected from the entries. More information www.castiron-clothing.com

A roll-up utility bag is an indispensable item in every man’s carry-on. It’s a stylish and convenient must-have travel accessory. This season Cast Iron is presenting this timeless roll-up utility bag featuring a rebellious look: denim with leather detailing. Cast Iron is giving away five of these roll-up utility bags. Want to try your luck at winning one of these stylish roll-up utility bags valued at € 69.95? 61

IN SHOP

WAHL proudly presents a new member of the barberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expert tool line 5-star series: the WAHL cordless Detailer Li. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the long-expected sibling of precise detail work, the corded Detailer. Equipped with T-Shaped blade and Lithium Ion battery. Cord/cordless continuous usage. More information www.wahlglobal.com

RED DEER BARBER T-TRIMMER

WAHL CORDLESS DETAILER-LI WAHL 5-STAR SERIES

Made in Germany: Red Deer launches the sidekick of the Barber Clipper No.1: the Barber-T trimmer, a dual usage professional trimmer. Perfect for everything that follows cuts with the clipper: spotless detailing for 0.3mm of close-up, razor-sharp contours. The 36mm wide T-Blade made of stainless steel has a large cutting surface and is perfect for difficult areas around the ears or beard. Also, for straight shapes and transitions. More information www.red-deer.de/eng

B AC KG R O U N D

WHAT KINDS OF INSURANCE DO I NEED? Which forms of insurance are important for you to have if you own a barber shop? What things do you need to consider in the field of insurance when you’re just starting out as an entrepreneur? These are frequently asked questions relating to insurance. It’s important that you cover the risks you run as a business owner. We provide a brief overview below of the forms of insurance many starting entrepreneurs decide to purchase.

Industrial property insurance Should your business be unable to operate due to unforeseen circumstances or, for example, a burglary, leak or fire, you can insurance yourself against the loss of your income during this period. You can take out industrial property insurance to cover the costs of your employees’ wages, your own income and other fixed expenses for up to 52 weeks.

Sickness absence insurance Back pain or barber’s eczema due to daily intensive contact with water, shampoo and chemical liquids occur frequently in the barbering sector. Employees can no longer work or no longer work to their full capacity when they are suffering from these conditions. Employees can also become ill or occupationally disabled. In the Netherlands, you are required as an employer to pay at least 70% of the most recently earned salary to this employee for a maximum of two years. The collective labour agreement often stipulates payment of 100% of the most recently earned salary in the event of illness. You can take out sickness absence insurance to insure your business against the consequences of absenteeism due to illness.

Accident insurance If you or an employee becomes occupationally disabled due to an accident, accident insurance will pay out a once-only amount.

Building insurance Your business premises are your barber shop’s calling card. You are proud of your premises and take care of them. Building insurance lets you insure your business premises against fire, burglary, storm damage, heavy snowfall damage, water damage and lightning strikes. This insurance also applies if you rent or have renovated your premises. Building insurance covers the repair expenses of your business premises or tenant’s interest (i.e. improvements that you have made to the building as a tenant). These are the expenses you incur in order to restore your business premises or tenant’s interest and immovable property attached to or on these premises to the state they were in before the damage.

Equipment and inventory insurance You can take out equipment insurance to insure your business premises contents (items not for sale) against damage. This includes things such as your chairs, equipment, cash register, computer and storage cupboards. The insurance covers damage to equipment due to water damage or fire or the theft of your laptop and telephone in your business premises. The inventory insurance covers damage to your inventory if, for example, the inventory in your storeroom has been lost in a fire or if it has been stolen. Your inventory can be comprised of both goods intended for sale and raw materials and substances, semi-finished, items being processed and packaging.

Business liability insurance As a business owner you are responsible for any injury or material damage you or your employees inflict on others. This can happen to anyone. After all, mistakes can be made anywhere people work. Your customer could, for example, become injured if you or one of your employees accidentally cuts their ear. An accident of this type could result in claims for damages. It is important to protect yourself against these financial consequences by taking out business liability insurance and/or professional liability insurance. It’s important to note that this is a business insurance and not a private insurance. This is because private insurance does not cover any damages you cause to others through your business.

Legal expenses insurance Everyone can end up in a legal conflict involving matters such as a dismissal procedure or violation of a non-competition clause. Even if you try to avoid a legal dispute, sometimes you are forced to take legal action against, for example, an employee, client or supplier. Legal expenses insurance covers the costs of legal advice, legal and court expenses, bailiff’s expenses and attorney expenses. In these uncertain times, people are more likely to take a matter to court in the case of a conflict. Legal expenses insurance helps you in the process of settling any difficult conflicts that may arise relating to your barber shop. This can save you both a great deal of time and money. It is important to note in this respect that private legal expenses insurance does not insure you against conflicts that arise during your work as a barber and business owner. Problems with clients, suppliers and employees, for example, are not covered by private legal expenses insurance.

Other forms of insurance to consider Store cash insurance This insurance covers cash that is stolen under force from the cash register in your barber shop.

Trade credit insurance In the event that your business client does not pay an accounts receivable, it is useful to have trade credit insurance. This gives you certainty that you will receive the amount owed via the insurance company. The insurance company will take over the accounts receivable and attempt to recover the amount owed from your client.

Cyber insurance Your clients’ personal data in your barber shop are very important. This information can fall into the hands of cyber criminals. A cyber-attack can lead to loss of revenue, for example because your online booking system is offline. It is, after all, very difficult to conduct business when you don’t know when your clients have their appointments. With cyber insurance you are insured against the financial damage that could occur via computers and online.

In closing There are a large number of insurance providers. It’s smart to compare carefully the premiums and related coverage and, if possible, to obtain the advice of an independent advisor. This is because each business owner runs different risks and needs to determine how he or she wishes to approach those risks. Also be sure to check out the special hairdressing insurance policies and packages that are aimed specifically at the hairdressing sector. It’s good to know that business insurance premiums are tax deductible as business expenses.

66 66

Team BarberSociety regularly travels to other cities to gain inspiration. The team also recently visited some top barber shops in London, including several stylish English classics. We asked the London barbers to share with us their must-visit hotspots in the British capital! And be sure to drop by these cool British barber shops for a haircut and to be immersed in the sophisticated and quintessentially English ambience. 67

RUFFIANS

Ruffians Shoreditch 46-48 Rivington St, Hackney, London EC2A 3QP +44 20 7613 2000 www.ruffians.co.uk Ruffians Shoreditch launched in August 2016. Inspired by the existing architecture of the building (an old abattoir!) and contemporary design in East London. This first shop in the super-cool East End of London has eight barber chairs on one floor in a light and airy shop, on one of the area’s coolest and bustling streets. With lounge chairs and a coffee table for chilling out before an appointment – guests can choose a signature Ruffians pale ale or guest whisky to keep them refreshed. The shop’s manager Tommy and the rest of the team know pretty much everyone in the local area - making Ruffians a true social hub where people love to hang out and get their hair cut. 68

OUR HOTSPOTS Meatmission 15 Hoxton Market, Hackney, London N1 6HG +44 20 7739 8212 www.meatliquor.com Our favourite local restaurant is Meatmission, just a stone’s throw from Ruffians over on Hoxton Market set in an old Christian missionary (complete with stained glass windows and a confessional box photo booth) – this is THE place to get a delicious burger (meat, chicken, veggie or vegan!) in the local neighbourhood. The Bricklayers Arms 31 Gresse St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 1QS +44 20 7636 5593 The Bricklayers Arms – our local boozer – literally right across the street from Ruffians, with a good jukebox and decent beer.

The crowd is unpretentious – as are the toilets which haven’t had a makeover maybe ever. Watch out though, local legend says that the ladies are haunted! Mr Start 40 Rivington St, Shoreditch, London EC2A 3LX +44 20 7729 6272 www.mr-start.com Mr Start! Again, another neighbour of ours – these guys have been a fixture of Rivington Street for over a decade and are specialists in casual tailoring & elegant styling. Philip (Mr Start himself) is a regular customer of Ruffians and his shop is where we send all of our customers looking for some smart clothes or a suit! Great shop, great service!

GENTLEMEN’S TONIC

31a Bruton Pl, Mayfair, London W1J 6NN +44 207 297 4343 www.gentlemenstonic.com Gentlemen’s Tonic was launched in 2004 and has become an international and award-winning luxury spa, grooming and hair concept. Since the launch, they have become synonymous with style and luxury delivering a high-quality service to a worldly and discerning client base. Their philosophy is simple - they endeavour to provide the perfect antidote to the stresses and strains of modern life, providing treatments and products that revive, invigorate and promote wellbeing. Highly trained, friendly and professional staff deliver a truly unique experience in an environment that is both

private and personal. Marrying traditional services with modern techniques, Gentlemen’s Tonic delivers bespoke treatments that meet their client’s very specific needs. OUR HOTSPOTS Nino's 49 Brewer Street, Soho, London W1F 9UG +44 20 7734 3234 www.ninos.co.uk One of my favorite shop’s is called Nino’s. It is an independent owned store which is located in Soho, Central London that suits ‘many a style’. A visit to the shop is an experience of its own. It sells elegant and classic to quirky and funky attire along with an array of items such as cufflinks, shirts, suits and ties.

Milos 1 Regent Street, St James´s, London SW1Y 4NR +44 20 7839 2080 www.estiatoriomilos.com Milos in Lower Regent Street is one of the best places for fresh fish and whatever you order you can’t go wrong. The service is friendly and it offers an extensive wine list. Dukes 35 St James's Pl, St. James's, London SW1A 1NY +44 20 7491 4840 www.dukeshotel.com I have been visiting Dukes in St James for years as it really is legendary, it is also cozy and unpretentious and really does make the ‘best’ Martini’s in London.

TRUEFITT & HILL

71 Saint James's Street, City of Westminster, London SW1A 1PH +44 20 7493 2961 www.truefittandhill.co.uk Founded in 1805 by William Francis Truefitt, wigmaker and haircutter to King George III, Truefitt & Hill have the honour of being recognised as the oldest barbershop in the world, as recognised by the Guinness Book of World Records. It is a history and a lineage they take exceptional pride in. Truefitt & Hill were honoured to include amongst their clientele numerous Royals of the European Courts, famous politicians such as Duke of Wellington, Sir Winston Churchill, as well as famous stars of Hollywood Golden Age including John Wayne, Frank Sinatra, Fred Astaire and Cary Grant. Truefitt & Hill features in the works of Dickens and Thackeray and the walls are 72

adorned with beautiful paintings radiating a rich history. The barber shop has been depended on to provide grooming perfection by prime ministers and statesmen for over two centuries. Quite simply, Truefitt & Hill has been part of the fabric and the flair of British society for over 200 years. They continue to evolve with new grooming products and services designed with the 21st century man in mind.

of the building offers great arty evenings. Moreover, L’Escargot was a favourite eatery of many a Truefitt & Hill client of old from the very suave movie star Douglas Fairbanks Jr. to WWII hero Bernard ‘Monty’ Montgomery.

OUR HOTSPOTS

London maybe known for its Great British pubs and pub-grub, but if one’s on the hunt for another British tradition – the curry, then ‘our’ local, Chutney Mary is a must. Founded by the Panjabi sisters in 1990, the food never fails to impress.

L'Escargot 48 Greek St, Soho, London W1D 4EF +44 20 7439 7474 www.lescargot.co.uk For a taste of French cuisine in London, there’s nowhere better than L’Escargot. This Soho staple hasn’t changed course since 1927, the menu, the surroundings and atmosphere akin to Soho days of old. The members bar at the top

Chutney Mary 73 St James's St, St. James's, London SW1A 1PH +44 20 7629 6688 www.chutneymary.com

© Addie Chinn 45 Jermyn St. 45 Jermyn St., St. James's, London SW1 6DN +44 207 205 4545 www.45jermynst.com If you’re thinking about the morning after and a really good British Breakfast, go to 45, Jermyn Street. It resembles the interior of an Art Deco ocean liner. No wonder, as it’s joined to London stalwart Fortnum & Mason. Breakfast is best enjoyed situated in one of its elegant terracotta booths. The poached ducks’ eggs on marmite covered crumpets are highly recommended. American Bar The Savoy, Strand, London WC2R 0EZ +44 20 7836 4343 www.thesavoylondon.com Another institution where one should visit is the American Bar at The Savoy. Whilst everything else seems to change in town, the 74

American Bar with all its old-world splendor remains. Berry Bros. & Rudd 63 Pall Mall, St. James's, London SW1Y 5HZ +44 800 280 2440 www.bbr.com A visit to Berry Bros. & Rudd is a must. The oldest wine store in London, its staff will know exactly what to recommend to impress your host.

The Punch Room 10 Berners St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 3NP +44 20 7908 7949 The Punch Room, Berners Street, is the perfect place to cap off your evening. A modern reincarnation of London clubs of old, it offers a dizzy array of punches, including The Edition, named after its parent hotel, The London Edition.

The Court Members Club 9 Kingly St, Carnaby, London W1B 5PH +44 207 043 1752 www.thecourt.co.uk Now for something completely new; The Court members club on Kingly Street, has an impression assortment chaps and ladies in-charge. Truly intimate with a wonderfully talented house pianist, The Court is elegant yet cool with the cozy feel of one’s local.

These English barber shops will naturally also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com/ insider). Look out for them on the social channels!

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

INTERVIEW ADRIAN WOOD Paul Molé Barber Shop is said to be the oldest barber shop in New York. This iconic institution is a real family barber shop located in Manhattan’s Upper East Side. Founded by Joseph Molé in 1913, it started out as a three-chair barber shop. Those chairs are amazingly still in use in the shop today. The shop flourished from day one and catered to gentlemen of distinction in New York society. Paul Molé became famous for his ‘flame’ cut. In the 1960s, when longer hair styles were all the rage, Molé became ‘the most famous barber in the world!’ and made a number of television appearances. Ahead of his time, he pioneered the development of new hair cutting techniques for a new era. Adrian Wood at the helm When Paul Molé passed away in the early 1970s, Adrian Wood was recruited to run the shop. With Wood at the helm, this illustrious grooming establishment has consistently been ranked as 76

one of the best in New York City. An icon in his own right, he is a standard-bearer for maintaining the highest standards and skills in the barbering industry. The shop has moved from success to success and style to style through the decades, without ever losing sight of its commitment to traditional barber’s techniques. Some of the world’s most famous men have passed through the doors of Paul Molé, including the likes of Henry Fonda, Joe DiMaggio and John Lennon. Even President Trump was a client of Adrian Wood. Team BarberSociety visited Adrian Wood in his shop to find out more about the icon and his inspiring past and challenging vision of the future.

An Englishman in New York Adrian Wood grew up in the North of England and received his training in London, studying two years at City of Guilds technical college and then following an apprenticeship for four years. He travelled the world and worked at high-end fashion shops and 5-star hotels while perfecting his skills. “I began in 1962. I started in England because at that time there was very little opportunity and I realised that as a barber I could travel around the world. I took it to different countries and ended up here in New York. I love New York – it’s a great city. I still love London, but New York is my home now. The American dream is still alive.”

Barbers should lift their business up rather than bring it down

Passing on the passion to the next generation He has passed on his passion for barbering to his children. “I have four kids and three of them are in the barber business. They’ve got their own businesses. One of my daughters works for Will King, who is The King of Shaves in England. Another one has a big barber shop in Nyack.

And my son is barbering in Midtown. So they’re all in the business and can use the tools. They learned it from me.” The establishment itself is an ode to the quintessential barber shop. There’s an antique barber’s pole with rotating red, white and blue stripes in the corner window and the children’s section boasts an 1890’s carousel horse. Perhaps the most striking feature is the collection of shaving mugs inscribed with customer names. Adrian Wood explains this timehonoured tradition: “The first set was done about sixty years ago. They are all famous names. I did another set in 2001 when the World Trade Center went down and we had 2,000 mugs made then for our customers. If you are a regular customer here, you have our own shaving mug with your name on it. It’s just a tradition that goes back to early barber times when you didn’t want a brush and equipment passed from one person to the next. Each person had their own equipment to stop the transmission of disease. It worked really well.” Training holds the key to the future Looking to the future, Wood foresees major challenges ahead for the barbering industry. Foremost is the shortage of skills and education. He makes a fervent appeal to raise the standards of the barbering profession and return to traditional barber’s techniques

in order to safeguard the industry’s future. “I took six years to train in England. It was the same in this country,” he says as he reaches for a copy of ‘The Standardized Textbook of Barbering’ published in 1939. “They had to learn the business from top to bottom. So there was training. Today in New York to get a barber’s license you have to do 400 hours. In California they are discontinuing the barber’s license altogether.” Wood leafs through an American barbering magazine and observes that all the barbers in it say, ‘I learned barbering in my garage.’ His view is forthright and outspoken: “As far as I am concerned, they are a bunch of fakes. It just makes me sick to see what’s happened to the barber business. It’s because the people have no training. Barbers should be looking to lift their business rather than bringing it down.” He is adamant about the need for barbers to learn all aspects of the profession. “The only way I have been able to stay on top of the industry I love is through the system that gave me a complete education in hairdressing and barbering,” he says. There are also lessons to be learned from the past in this regard: “Barber shops became almost extinct in the 1970s because barbers had only one act. They only knew basic clipper cutting. This will happen again when the style changes.”

If you can only use a pair of clippers, you’re going to be stuck The post-fade era Enabling the next generation of barbers to master all the skills of barbering will be imperative for a secure future. Wood already sees the style changing and says this heightens the urgency for barbers to expand their range of skills. “If you are new to the business, my advice would be to find a mentor. You really don’t know what you don’t know,” he concludes. Education will play a decisive role in shaping the future of the industry. “Five years from now the clipper cutting will be gone. We’re in the post-fade era. Who knows what’s going to be next, maybe it’s going to be processing. But you’re going to have to be able to use all 78

the tools in order to take on the next trend. If you can only use a pair of clippers, you’re going to be stuck.” Renaissance of traditional barbering Wood is dedicated to doing his part to bring about a renaissance of traditional barbering. “I’m hoping before I finish in the barber business that we will come around to a different way of working again.” He doesn’t see his barber shop as part of a dying breed: “I don’t want to be an antique. I think it’s just the opposite of that. Hopefully it’s going to be the thing of the future and barbers will elevate themselves rather than degrade themselves.”

Hard Grind, Scotlands Best Barber Shop 2019

SHABA Glasgow (UK), September 2019

From left to right: Anthony Hutton, Phil Jarman, Adam Sloan, Marc van de Hare ÂŠ Shaba

Daniel Cleavin, Scotlands Best Wet Shave 2019

82 Verry Bounce

‘Barbering in Asia’, AHMA & Cosmobeauté Indonesia, Jakarta (ID), October 2019

From left to right: More Yang, Barber Birdman, Jay Lee

Richie Finney

Jody Taylor & Liam Campbell

Sam Campagna

Salon International London (UK), October 2019

Ruffians, Wahl British Barber Shop of the Year 2019

Carl Taylor, Wahl British Barber of the year 2019

Baldy

Alan Beak

From left to right: Richard Gronas (l) Hovo Stepanyan (m), Brian van Dijk (r)

ÂŠ Darren Fotografie

Barber Battle NL Amsterdam (NL), November 2019

BARBERSOCIETY LIVE CELEBRATES 5TH ANNIVERSARY!

E DI TO R I A L M A R C VA N D E H A R E

We held the first edition of BarberSociety Live in 2016. It was great to finally be able to meet the barbers in person that I’d been in contact with online via the BarberSociety Facebook community. That first edition rocked! It was both incredible to finally have a meeting place where colleagues can share experiences and amazing that the first edition attracted more than 250 colleagues. We ran out of room that first year and had to turn down people who wanted tickets to the event. I can tell you that putting on that first edition was unbelievably exciting and nerve-wracking. But we believed 100% in the concept: a meeting place at a cool venue where you can gain information, education and inspiration and enjoy chewing the fat with colleagues about the business while enjoying a cold beer and some great barbecue. An event exclusively focused on the fantastic field of barbering. Our mission: to create the same barber feeling you experience in the barber shop, a feeling leading to comradery. The vibe of that first edition was spot-on and we’ve kept that unique atmosphere as the event has grown year by year! A huge thanks goes to our loyal guests and brands that are represented at the event. Thanks to you we’ve been able to maintain that unique BSL atmosphere at each edition of the event! Even when the 2019-edition attracted a crowd of 1,200. BSL 2016 © Maaike van Esch Fotografie

BSL 2016 Dreams The first edition in 2016 was a dream come true, but we haven’t stopped dreaming! I’ve always learned that you’ve got to keep dreaming and have discovered that fulfilling your dreams is the most satisfying feeling in the world. My dream for BarberSociety Live 2020 is for us to present a kick-ass 5th year anniversary event at a venue that captures the imagination: the iconic round ‘Gashouder’ at the Westergas Exhibition Center in Amsterdam. And we’re going to make sure it’s a blast! We’re hoping that even more international colleagues will attend this anniversary edition because we believe in the power of cultural exchange. It’s all

about bringing barbers from across Europe and around the world together to learn from each other. It makes you a better barber and at the same time helps develop our profession. And that’s so important because we’ve got to achieve an improvement in quality in order to maintain the reputation of our great profession. Raising the level of quality has also been a key driver of our activities since we first launched the BarberSociety. I’m proud that BarberSociety Live has become the leading annual

meeting place for barbers from the Netherlands and abroad. The 2020 edition of BarberSociety Live will take place on Sunday, 17 May. We’re pulling out all the stops to make this the best edition ever and look forwarding to welcoming even more barbers to Amsterdam from far and wide! MenSociety My clients regularly asked me in the run-up to the previous editions whether they could also visit the event because they thought it sounded cool. So we

BarberSociety Live 2020 will include a men’s lifestyle day 89

Marc van de Hare BarberSociety Founder Will you get in on the action on Saturday, 16 and/or Sunday, 17 May 2020? See you there! 90

BSL 2019 © Darren fotografie thought: Why not give men in general the chance to experience the unique barber feeling and culture? That’s why we’ve decided to add a consumer day to BarberSociety Live: MenSociety. But we’re expanding the focus way beyond only hair and beards. After all, barbers and their clients also like men’s lifestyle products. We already devote a lot of attention to lifestyle in this magazine. That’s why we’ll be presenting a Men’s Lifestyle Day on Saturday, 16 May. I also wouldn’t be surprised if more men started going to a barber shop as a result! We’ll obviously also be offering two-day tickets because a lot of people who attend the event on Sunday would probably also like to visit on Saturday.

Get ready for a kick-ass 5th edition

REASONS TO VISIT BSL 2020 Saturday, 16 May 2020 = MenSociety = consumer day = everyone interested in men’s lifestyle

Sunday, 17 May 2020 = BarberSociety = trade day = f or all professionals interested in the barber industry

Experience a men’s world: Men’s fashion and sneaker brands Men’s lifestyle products Beer, whiskey, cocktails Men’s body and hair care products and beard brands Tattoo artists from across Europe Hosting Europe’s largest beard event: Beardsterdam Beard competition: Win the title of Europe’s best beard man! Pin-up/burlesque competition: Become Europe’s best pin-up! Men’s relaxation treatments Live music & DJ Food truck festival

Experience the BarberSociety community feeling: Many opportunities for education through barber shows and seminars Stay up on the latest trends Take part in the BarberSociety battles and show your skills Be inspired by top educators from the profession Meet like-minded colleagues and exchange experiences Buy the latest tools and products Open doors to new opportunities Motivational team day-out Food truck festival

P.S. Tickets go on sale in late December 2019. Keep an eye on our social channels. 91

SAVE THE DATE

AMSTERDAM / GASHOUDER, WESTERGAS / ONLINE TICKET SALES START END OF 2019 BARBERSOCIETYLIVE / @BARBERSOCIETYLIVE / WWW.BARBERSOCIETYLIVE.COM

BARBER BABE

ÂŠ Csaba Molek

INTERV IEW

LILLU SCHNEIKER The journey has only just begun Lillu Schneiker, the North Barber, is one of a growing group of female barbers in Hungary who are raising the bar in barbering. She sees being a woman as an asset rather than a liability. Driven by the goal of being the best she can be, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s picked up prestigious awards including first place in the freestyle category in the BarberSociety Battle at the 2018 edition of BarberSociety live. Her mission: to ensure each client receives the best possible barbering experience. 93

BarberSociety Battle 2019

When I hold the scissors and have the trimmers in my hand, the nerves just disappear. It’s awesome

The best decision ever Lillu’s earned her pocket money when she was young washing clients’ hair at her mother’s hairdressing salon. She loved being at the salon and was in awe of her mother’s skill and professionalism. So her passion for the profession was sparked when she was just a girl. She did not, however, go into barbering straightaway, choosing instead to pursue a career as a special education teacher. But she was soon drawn back to her first love: barbering. “It was the best decision I ever made,” she says. Lillu notes that it is increasingly common for women to become barbers in Hungary. She is amazed by the surge in the number of 94

female barbers: “A few years ago I was the first and the only woman to take part in a barber battle here in Hungary. This year there were eight female barbers participating in the battle in Budapest.” She believes this growth in female barbers is largely thanks to the separation that has taken place in the profession between hairdressing and barbering: “It’s a very good thing that the profession is separated between hairdressers and barbers because the two arms of the profession require very different skills.” She also commends her male counterparts for their support: “It’s fantastic because we don’t face any prejudices because we choose this vocation. The male barbers here have accepted us, and we are not jealous of each other. So that’s a cool thing.” Optimum service every time Lillu is convinced it doesn’t matter whether a woman or man does the job. She says what really matters is the quality of the experience: “The most important thing is when the client sits in your chair and you make the whole

service as special as you can and when you’re finished the client says: ‘I’m very happy. I got a cool haircut and can I have another appointment?’ That’s the most important thing to me.” Artistry at work What do you like most about your work? “What I love in this profession is the creativity. I have a soft spot for freestyling and hair tattooing. This is what I love the most.” Lillu says there isn’t anything about her work that she doesn’t enjoy. She especially likes taking on new challenges: “If somebody asks me for a special haircut, I just do it. I don’t care if I’ve never done it before. I always take on the challenge.” Unexpected victory Lillu won first place in the freestyle category in the BarberSociety Battle 2018. This victory literally took her by surprise. She laughs as she tells the funny story of how she found out she had won the title. “I didn’t expect to win, but just wanted to take part and have fun. After we finished the battle, I told my team: let’s have a look

Give more, share more, create more

They love the product I use. It’s like a frame around the entire service – a ritual. They associate the scent with the ritual of the barbering experience.” She only recommends products based on first-hand experience: “I recommend fragrances to clients, but only if I’ve actually tried it. When I use product, my clients always ask where they can purchase it. That’s why we now offer these products for sale in our little shop within our shop.”

Fragrance as the framework Fragrances play an integral role in the barbering experience according to Lillu. Her mostloved brand is Proraso and her favourite scents are citrus and masculine and distinctive scents. “My clients love these fragrances. I use Proraso shaving cream and balm, very masculine scents that my clients appreciate. Fragrances definitely play a role in the experience at my shop. I always finish my service with the scent. I apply some hair tonic and when I make the contours, I apply some after shave for a refreshing and cool feeling. My clients love it and expect me to do it. Sometimes when we’re deep in conversation, I forget to do it and they say, ‘Lillu would you please apply the fragrance because I love that feeling.’

Looking to the future Lillu looks to the future with energy and confidence. “My ambition is to become a better professional day by day and to be a good person. My first goal is to travel a lot. I want to build a ‘barber shop van’ and go everywhere that I can with it. To dig deeper into the history of barbering and learn much more about it. I think it’s going to be a great journey because I’m a woman and it will be fun to see how old-school barbers react to me. I want to first travel through Europe and then Sweden, Finland, Norway and Russia.” So Lillu’s journey in the world of barbering has only just begun.

around Amsterdam. We left the venue and I watched the event live on Instagram and then I saw that I’d won the freestyle category. My mother shook me and said run Lillu. I told the guys to run because I can’t move. Just go and tell them I’m on my way. When we arrived back at the venue, they repeated the award. It was crazy – like a movie, a comedy.” Lillu says that the most important thing about taking part in battles is to be surrounded by like-minded professionals. “It’s never been my goal to be the best or to win the championship. The reason I take part in battles is to find out how my fellow barbers handle different situations. It’s an educational experience and an opportunity to learn from other professionals. It’s also a chance to grow. I’m not always comfortable in unpredictable situations. But when I hold the scissors and have the trimmers in my hand, the nerves just disappear. It’s awesome – you’re completely focussed.”

Making a mark When asked about her main drivers in the profession, Lillu quotes motivational speaker and author Tony Robbins: ‘Give more, share more, create more.’ She says for her this means, “Give more of what I know to other people, share more and gain more from them – knowledge and empathy that are valuable for me and them. Create more, create something good and leave some footprints in the sand.”

C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R

THE €1,000 HAIRCUT

CULTIVATING A HIGH PRICE FOR THE WORK YOU DO This summer I did something completely unthinkable for most people in the barbering industry, however, there are a few people that can…

The €1,000 Haircut I travelled to Paris and charged €1,000 for a haircut. The client didn’t mind paying €1,000 for my skin fade. Let me tell you why. I don’t operate within the market forces; I create my own market. We all know that Ferrari don’t make cars for everyone, they make their cars specifically for a few. Few people are willing to pay a deposit, wait months for their car and know that they have huge ongoing costs related to owning a high-value vehicle. But Ferrari do not struggle to sell their cars because those few really love the status, prestige and value that Ferrari can give them. Social media has worked wonders for our industry. It has allowed us to get our message, our thoughts and values out to the world cheaply or even for free. There has been no other time in history where we have been able to do this so effectively. We can potentially communicate to so many more people, but this throws up a big problem: our messages, products and services 96

are targeted for the many and not for the few. We are so preoccupied in getting as many followers as possible rather than focusing on those people who are looking for exceptional people to help them solve a particular problem. Be famous for a ‘few’ When people discover you, they want to know your story and what makes you the creative you are right now. Are you making it hard for people to discover this information? Is your story being told? If not, you may be overshadowed by somebody else who has a clear communication of their story. Think of it this way, before booking your holiday did you check out the photos of the rooms and look for pictures of the restaurant? Did you check out the local area to see if there are things that you like to do? Did you read the reviews of the location? I bet you did! So, when somebody wants to know about you and wants to engage you, where is your information? Strategies Allow me to recommend a few strategies to help you with your story and in turn cultivate the big-money opportunities to be highly sought-after and a high-valued barber professional.

Create a personal branding website with your career timeline and strong imagery that communicates your value. 1

Create content for YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and blogs that directly promote you and your message. Use your name to make it easy for people to locate you. Use the same name across every platform to build the brand, making your work easily searchable. 2

The Constant Message Keep it consistent, people need to hear your message 7 to 15 times before they understand it and remember it. Don’t forget to describe what you do and for whom you do it. A great example is the brand Sassoon which has always had the same message strong technical haircuts and instantly recognizable imagery. The years go by, but the constant message stays the same. 3

Your Product Ecosystem When people get to know, like and trust you the next step is for them to buy from you. So many barber professionals get this wrong; they go from show to show demonstrating and sharing their knowledge for free without a product ecosystem in place. A product ecosystem is based on a variety of products at different price points allowing 4

the clients to engage with you on many different levels. Successful barber professionals have an ecosystem that their clients can buy their products and services from. To be a highly valuable and highly sought-after barber professional you need to create your own market by having a strong brand and being discoverable. Then you won’t have to operate within the market forces, you will set your own prices. Remember, there are many cars on the road within a lower price bracket compared to the high-end market of expensive cars. There is a market for every professional at every level. If you want to discuss the continued success of your career profile or if you need any help and advice on any of the topics I’ve covered in this article, feel free to contact me via my website www.hairbychrisfoster.com. Chris Foster – ‘the profile guy’

Only you can decide which level you would like your product market to be 97

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