BarberSociety Magazine international Fall 2021 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

INTERVIEW WITH ODY ZEUZ I REALISED HOW FAR YOU CAN GO IF YOU KEEP AT IT PHOTO REPORT OF THE BERLIN BARBER EXPO

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

THE NEW PLACE TO BE IN VIENNA R./TATTOO X BARBER BY RAPPER RAF CAMORA AND ÜMIT CANTA

FALL 2021 | #9 | € 12,50

SCALP PROBLEMS IN FOCUS

Collection: B&W Hair: Borja Carbonell & David Pastor (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Fashion: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

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Hair: Borja Carbonell & David Pastor (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca @saloncarlosvaliente

EDITORIAL BREAKING THE RULES Interview with Ody Zeuz Q&A WITH ÜMIT CANTA On the new place to be in Vienna: R./TATTOO X BARBER by RAF Camora SCALP PROBLEMS IN FOCUS TRENDS Diego Guerrero, Ross Mathieson, Robert Braid, Brain On Academy, Ismael de Mora, Fran Aranda, Alejandro Valencia, Salon Carlos Valiente, Borja Carbonell & David Pastor, Bernat Sayol, Vladimir Zhurikhin ANDIS ® COMPANY: EMPOWERING CREATORS PRODUCT NEWS Grooming, In-Shop, Lifestyle

BARBER BABE Interview with Bridey Jo

BARBERS & THE CIT Y Vienna

ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Michael de Bruijn

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER Why should barbers know about skincare?

THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO… Berlin Barber Expo 2021

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Writers Steven Walker Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

EDITORIAL

At the time of writing this, I’ve just returned from a trip to Germany to attend the Berlin Barber Expo. It was wonderful to once again be able to take part in a live event! A great opportunity to meet colleagues from Germany and other countries, reconnect with old acquaintances, exchange experiences, see top barbers at work and discover new brands and products. We even got to watch a battle in which up-and-coming talent showed us what they’ve got. While it was a small-scale event, there was a great vibe. Everybody was thrilled to see each other again in person after so many months of only online contact. I’ve returned from Berlin recharged with energy and brimming with inspiration. I can’t wait to once again convey that unique energy and emotion at BarberSociety Live in 2022! Check out the photo report of the Expo to get a feel for the event.

AMBITION

We have several clients at our barbershop who have scalp problems. Because you often can’t see the condition on the outside, some of them really struggle with it. As part of my broad hairdressing diploma course, I learned a lot about scalp problems, and I’m pleased to help clients address this problem if I can. Not all of my colleagues have this knowledge and I see that as a missed opportunity because as a barber you can make a real difference in your clients’ lives by advising them on scalp conditions. To find out more about this topic, read the article on page 18!

With Hayden at the Berlin Barber Expo

The common thread running through the interviews in this edition is ‘persevering’ and ‘making plans’. Barber Ody Zeuz, a well-known stage performer from LA, tells us that the sky’s the limit if you just persevere: ‘Keep improving yourself and make plans.’ The ‘Barber Babe’ featured in this edition – Bridey Jo from the UK – explains how important it is to make plans and have goals and stick to them. She’s an ambitious 26-year-old who has her own barbershop, merchandise and product line. She even has plans to eventually franchise her concept. It’s an ambition that is shared by Austrian barber Ümit Canta. He and chartbusting, Germanlanguage rapper RAF Camora opened an amazing barbershop and tattoo parlour in Vienna in the midst of the pandemic. A bold and courageous move! They went for it despite being advised against it. It’s turned out to be successful. Their motto is: ‘Don’t be afraid, just go for it.’

Check out some photos of their stunning business with the related interview and in the Barbers & the City Vienna section. In contrast, barber Michael de Bruijn has moved away from wanting multiple locations and has decided to focus on one business. A member of a barbering family with a tradition stemming back to 1848, sixthgeneration barber Michael and his father Peter have divested two salons so that they can focus all their attention on the location where it all began. They believe one location is enough and gives them a better balance in life. It’s an inspiring story that I

can really relate to. They do have a clear ambition in another area: to be awarded a Royal Warrant of Appointment to the Court of the Netherlands in connection with their 175th anniversary! I hope you enjoy this edition and wish you an autumn filled with ambition!

Marc van de Hare

BarberSociety Founder Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

Don’t be afraid, just go for it 5

BREAKING THE RULES

INTERV IEW

Bringing INTERVIEW the old ODY ZEUZ to the new

@odyzzeuz

Ody Zeuz was given a pair of clippers at age 14. It was a defining moment in his life. He picked up the tricks of the trade by watching the barbers at his local barbershop in Los Angeles. By the age of 18, he’d built a sizeable clientele. He discovered along the way that barbering could be a great outlet for his artistic creativity. This inspired him to become a passionate educator and stage performer. At just 33 years of age, he has made a real name for himself in the world of barbering. His work has even been featured in a national television commercial. High time to catch up virtually with Ody in Los Angeles to talk about barbering, pushing boundaries and breaking the rules.

Lemons to lemonade Ody’s love of barbering was born of necessity. As a kid growing up in LA, he couldn’t afford to get haircuts at a barbershop. So his parents bought him a pair of clippers. Ody: “It was a case of ‘when life gives you lemons make lemonade’ and that’s what I did. I set about learning how to cut my own hair when I was 14.” He learned the basics the old-school way by watching the pros in action. “We didn’t have internet, so I couldn’t look up anything online, so I’d go to a neighbourhood barbershop and act like I was waiting for a haircut from the most popular barber. I’d just sit there and watch the guys cut and intentionally keep moving to the back of the line. I’d then go home and try it myself,” says Ody.

After-school job It didn’t take long for Ody to start earning pocket money with his newfound barbering skills. Ody: “As time went by, my friends started noticing I could cut my own hair. So I started building a clientele at age 14 and stuck with it through high school. When I was 18, the guys at the barbershop realised I actually went there to watch and gave me a chance to work at the barbershop. It just happened.” Barbering as a career opportunity Ody didn’t seriously consider barbering as a career until he was a bit older. He followed his parents’ advice and went to college so he could get a ‘real’ profession. But something kept tugging him towards barbering. Ody on his first steps into barbering as a career: “A career in barbering didn’t come to my mind until I was about 20. I was going to college because my parents wanted me to get a degree and a 9-to5 job. I was trying to please them, but I was also looking for a career where I could travel. I’d always cut hair as a form of income, but it wasn’t until I realised I could be a platform artist and teacher and build a business and brand that I decided to write a five-year 7

goal plan. My plan entailed networking, building new relationships with other brands and getting myself out there. Little by little I started meeting the right people and getting invited to events and got the opportunity to teach at barbering and cosmetology schools. My first trip out of California was to Arizona to teach a class. It was an unforgettable moment as it was a stepping stone to my career. It’s when I realised how far you can go if you just keep at something. That’s when I discovered I could really achieve

something by using my art skills in cutting hair to educate others.” A passion for performing Ody enjoys performing on stage because it lets him express his artistic side and share his passion for barbering. “I love being on stage and sharing my knowledge, because there is no right or wrong way of teaching and everyone learns differently. Usually when somebody is on stage there is a step-by-step process, like how to do a fade. I decided to take a different approach that would let me be more artistic. I try to create something that nobody

I realised how far you can go if you keep at it 8

has ever seen before. In terms of performance, it’s about sharing my passion on stage rather than teaching something. I aim to create something unique.” Looking to the past for inspiration Known for his unique styles combining classic and contemporary, Ody draws inspiration from an unexpected source in today’s digital age – libraries and bookshops. Ody: “Hairstyles have always been around. You’ve got looks from the 30s, 40s, 80s, 90s and so on. And the haircut that’s trending

today almost certainly existed 50 or 30 years ago and has come back around. I like to visit a library or bookshop and research different styles that aren’t really the norm today. I then try to create something by bringing the old to the new. I involve clothing, colouring, even make-up to make it pop to what I’m trying to create. You have to look at the past in order to create something new.” Breaking the rules When asked if he has a signature style, Ody explains that he is always improving and evolving, and likes to work out of the box. “I’m always trying to better my work. I am more passionate about doing more textured work rather than the typical really tight-edged, perfectly-faded haircuts you see nowadays. I feel like haircuts don’t always have to be tight and clean-cut. I like breaking the rules.”

As seen on TV Ody’s work caught the eye of a television producer. He contacted Ody and this led to his work being featured in a nationwide television commercial in the US for AT&T Direct. It’s an amazing story: “Somebody randomly reached out to me on direct messaging. They were filming a commercial in LA and wondered if I wanted to be part of it. A film company was looking for a barber who could do creative hairstyles and portrait work, so replicating whatever image they envisioned. The commercial theme was March Madness (ed. national college football tournament). I was tasked with doing five different haircuts of portraits of various college mascots. It was so challenging as I had to do five designs in one day. But it all came out great. The commercial is out, and they used all five haircuts. I also played a cameo part in

the commercial as a barber cutting hair. It was a really beautiful experience.”

Scan to watch the commercial Looking to the future Ody wants to continue building his career nationally and internationally. “I want to continue being a platform artist both in the US and internationally. Being on stage around the world showcasing my artistry.” His advice for barbers moving up the ranks? “Plan your next move, always make plans. A lot of people don’t plan and set goals and just live by the day, it doesn’t take you far. But if you plan it out, put it out there, it will come back to you. Plan your career!”

Q &A

R./TATTOO X BARBER COMBINING STAR POWER AND A DOWN-TO-EARTH APPROACH 10

RAF Camora – the hugely successful German-speaking rapper – and Ümit Canta – Austria’s most well-known barber – have teamed up to open R./Tattoo X Barber in Vienna. It combines a barbershop and tattoo parlour in one amazing space. We got in touch with Ümit Canta to ask him about his incredible journey in barbering and the big plans for this new enterprise.

Where did your barbering journey begin?

@r.tattoo.barber

“My older sister is a hairdresser, and I was playing soccer in the Austrian Youth League at the time. She said I should get a job on the side and that’s how I started styling hair. I began at a regular hair salon and then decided I’d rather focus on men’s barbering. I had, after all, been giving all my teammates haircuts all along, so I’d got the hang of it. I’ve now been working in the industry for 14 years. After finishing a three-year traineeship, I opened my own shop.” “When I started there were very few salons in Vienna that exclusively catered to men. So I thought it would be a good idea to open a barbershop. I was well-connected to all the players

@raf_camora ©Markus Mansi (BOBBYS AGENCY) from the Austrian league because I played myself, so I contacted these soccer players and invited them to my shop. That’s how I became wellknown on Facebook in Vienna. Before long all the sports guys and wanna-be sport guys started coming to me for haircuts. It was kind of a status thing.”

You’ve collaborated with RAF Camora to open R./Tattoo X Barber in Vienna. How did this collaboration come about? “Raf is originally from Vienna, but he moved to Berlin in about 2011. Every time he came back to Vienna, he’d come to my barbershop. So he only came about once a year, but he was always pleased with the haircuts. When Raf was in Barcelona for six months in 2019, he came across a shop that combines tattooing and barbering, which are two things he likes a lot. So he called me one day and said: ‘I’m going to open a shop like this in Vienna, so maybe it’s time for us to collaborate.’ I said yes right away. We put in a full year of planning and preparation to open the business. And then the corona pandemic hit, and we ended up opening the shop in December 2020. We were insecure about opening a business during the pandemic. But Raf said it’s a very important time, not just for us, but for the industry as a whole. It’s important for the younger generation not to be fearful. If you want to do something, don’t listen to anybody, just do it. So while there were a lot of people telling us not to do it, we did it and it has turned out very well.”

How involved is RAF Camora in the day-to-day operations of the business? “Raf is not involved in the day-to-day operations. He owns about ten different companies. We have a telephone meeting every week and Raf flies to Vienna every month to discuss our operations and plans for the business. So he is more of a strategic partner than an operating partner.”

What makes R./Tattoo X Barber distinctive? “First of all, besides the quality of the work we do, we have one of the biggest shops in Vienna. It’s 300 square metres, with high ceilings. We have exposed brick walls combined with 20 tonnes of black marble. We want to have a brutal look – a mix between very old and very new. We’ve used a lot of metal, with more than 500 metres of exposed steel pipes. So the look itself is very unique, not only in Austria, but also worldwide. We wanted to create a new-school barbershop rather than an old-school barbershop.”

Your business is a barbershop and a tattoo parlour. Do you think the two crafts go together and are an extension of each other? “The easiest way to get men in a shop is to have a barbershop, because most men come every week or every other week. So they come here all the time. Since they know the shop, they are more likely to come to us if they want a tattoo as well and tend to recommend us to friends. It creates valuable word-ofmouth marketing. So we use the barbershop to get as many people into the shop as possible and many of them, most of them in fact, also get tattoos at some point. We have lot of clients who do both – they come here for tattoos and barbering.”

If you want to do something, don’t listen to anybody, just do it 13

Do you have a signature cut or style? “I am known for my anatomic haircuts that suit the client’s head type. So I provide a low fade, mid fade or high fade depending on what best suits the shape of the head. I’m well known for taking the time to explain to the client that a certain cut would suit the shape of their head. So this is why men come to me.”

What are the current men’s hair trends in Vienna? Is there a Vienna look? “In Vienna, we’re inspired by cities such as Berlin, which is like Vienna’s big sister. So whatever is in fashion in Berlin, comes to Vienna a year of two later. The fade cut is the super trend right now and I see curly hair as the next big trend that is taking off at the moment. Beards are also big in Austria. But they’re now moving away from longer beards, with everyone now wanting to have a clean, five-day beard.”

How diverse is your clientele? Do you focus on a particular target group? “We have a very mixed clientele, with clients ranging in age from 2 to 85. We’re located very close to the US Embassy, so we have a lot of people from the embassy. We’re one of the very few shops where almost everyone speaks English. We have barbers from Brazil and other countries outside Austria, so we speak a lot of English in the shop. A lot of people from outside the country feel comfortable here. We serve people from all ethnicities and cut all hair types including afro and Asian hair. A month ago the national team of Cameroon was in Vienna, and they called me and asked if I could cut their hair and we did it. They were nervous about whether we could do it, but they discovered that we’re comfortable cutting all different kinds of hair.”

Your clientele includes a number of celebrities. How did you come into contact with them and why do they choose you to cut their hair? “I used to play soccer in the Austrian Youth League and a lot of the guys I played with went on to become very famous. They always remained very loyal to me. So every time they went to a training, other players would ask them who is their barber. So that’s how I started cutting more and more players’ hair. Some of the Austrian players started playing in other countries and every time they would bring an international player with them, they’d bring them to my shop. So it’s just grown and grown. It’s the same with rappers, they started coming to the shop just to take some pictures with us. I’d then start talking with them and ask if I could have a go at cutting their hair. They loved the haircuts and started promoting it on Instagram. So now I’ve got lots of influencers, sports people and musicians as clients.” “But we don’t cater just to celebrities. In the beginning people would see a story about David Alaba or another celebrity and assume that we were really exclusive. They’d ask: So how much is a haircut anyway?

Where do you want to be and what do you want to be doing five years from now? “We’re already working on our second shop in Salzburg. We plan to open a shop every year for the next five years. So five shops in Austria, Germany, Switzerland, perhaps other countries. Five shops that combine tattooing, barbering and merchandising. What’s more, we’re working with

Raf’s mum, who’s been making creams for twenty years and created the face cream for former French President Sarkozy. She’s helping us create a line of natural shampoos, after-shaves and waxes for our shops. We want to start with our own five shops but may eventually begin franchising to reach a total of 100 shops. So a lot of people are going to hear from us – we’re not going to stop! We’ve seen that if you work hard, it pays off and makes sense in the long term.”

@umit.rtb

I’d say it’s about 33 euros. And they were like: Wow, it’s affordable! They were scared in the beginning because they thought we might be too expensive. My team, Raf and I come from the streets. We’re regular people, we don’t have rich parents. That’s why we said: We want to give the most exclusive look and style, but for a street price. So that everyone can afford to have this experience with us. That’s what is most important to us.”

B AC KG R O U N D

HOW MUCH DO YOU REALLY KNOW ABOUT SCALP PROBLEMS? When most people go to their hairdresser or barber, they only think about having their hair cut. But would they think to get help for their scalp too? Unfortunately, scalp problems are much more common than most believe. So, it’s important to be able to identify any skin conditions and infections in your clients. That way, you can provide them with the best care and attention possible, give advice and even refer them to a doctor or dermatologist, if need be. Your clients will love you for it!

Carla Uppelschoten

A barber’s expertise should extend to spotting any problems with the scalp as much as the moustache and beard region. U-Consultancy (NL) offers dermatology courses for professionals with a broad interest in skin care, including specialist training for hairdressers and barbers. We asked Director of U-Consultancy Carla Uppelschoten to give us some insight into the problems you might come across on the scalp. Recognising scalp problems As a hairdresser or barber, you’re in the unique position of coming into contact with clients’ scalps all day, every day. There’s a good chance you’ll come across scalp problems with several of your customers... and they might not have even been aware that anything was wrong. You’re not a doctor of course, but recognising conditions and giving advice should still be part of your job. Scalp problems can be determined by genetics and occur in every demographic of the population. These conditions often go hand in 18

hand with an increased risk of mental health problems, partly because of how visible they can be and their often chronic nature – something which people with a hair or scalp problem have to deal with day in, day out. How scalp conditions arise Like the rest of our skin, our scalp and face are exposed to the outside world every day. They don’t just come into contact with air, heat and water, but there are also many different types of microorganisms that live on our skin. The majority of these are harmless, ranging from

those that are always present there to temporary organisms. The acidity or pH of our skin, combined with the resistant microbiota, protects our skin against most diseases. However, skin infections can still occur when malicious microorganisms, which may not be naturally present on the skin, nest there. They can also be microorganisms that are always present on the skin and don’t usually cause disease, but even the smallest cut or wound can cause these microorganisms to penetrate the skin. That’s when these microorganisms can become harmful to humans. Normally, there are bacteria temporarily present on our skin without causing us any harm, before disappearing after a few hours. However, a change in the regular skin conditions – such as temperature fluctuation, change of normal microbiota present by washing the skin too much and skin peeling – increases the risk of a skin infection. Bacteria, viruses and mycoses (fungi) can all cause specific skin conditions. And one of the most common of those that you as a hairdresser or barber might encounter is folliculitis.

Folliculitis

Folliculitis occurs when the hair follicles are infected by microorganisms, causing inflammation that spreads to the surrounding area. This inflammation can happen anywhere on the body where hair growth occurs. However, folliculitis occurs mainly on the scalp, beard and moustache. It is a common infection that can be triggered in several ways, most typically by skin irritation due to shaving or using excessive ointments or oils that close the pores, blocking the hair follicle and/or sebaceous gland.(1)

If the infection penetrates deep enough, an extreme variant also known as sycosis barbae can occur, which leads to scar formation and permanent hair loss in the affected areas of the skin. Treatment In many cases, folliculitis will go away on its own and no treatment is required. However, if the infection occurs more frequently and becomes chronic, it’s best to consult a doctor. In the case of bacterial infection (folliculitis barbae), this can be treated with local or systemic antibiotics.

An infection in the hair follicles can also be caused by bacteria or yeasts. Folliculitis barbae occurs frequently in men’s skin around where the beard grows, caused by the staphylococcus aureus bacterium. The infection can be identified by red bumps or pimples around the hair follicles.

Source: (1) https://www.huidarts.com/ huidaandoeningen/folliculitis/

Pseudofolliculitus barbae

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is a common type of folliculitis. It is a chronic condition caused by an inflammation around ingrown hairs after they have been shaved or plucked. It can occur in both men and women, but most commonly in men with a darker skin colour, who have a higher genetic predisposition to this disorder, a recent study showed.(2) The structure of the hairs also has a major influence on how the condition develops. Curly hair can become ingrown after shaving, picking or clipping it short when the hairs curl as they grow back. Pseudofolliculitis barbae is also known as ‘razor bumps’ because the condition is caused by shaving or plucking the hairs. It is characterised by red bumps and pimples around the follicles. The ingrown hairs cause the inflammatory reaction, which looks similar to regular folliculitis.

Treatment There are no treatments available to prevent hair from regrowing in the skin. However, the condition may cause itching. Pseudofolliculitis barbae is best prevented or inhibited by not shaving and/or plucking the hair. This isn’t possible for everyone, however. If there is no option other than to shave, here are some tips to reduce the symptoms of the condition:(3) Shave every other day instead of every day. Don’t shave the hairs too short. A shaver with an adjustable blade length is recommended. Use a disposable razor, as this shaves less deep. Shave in the direction of hair growth. Do not shave wet. Use a hormone cream after shaving, if necessary.

Other skin conditions Other conditions that may occur in the moustache and beard regions include: Impetigo

Impetigo is an infection that occurs on or near the hair on the head, often presenting in childhood. The infection is usually caused by the staphylococcus aureus bacterium, which penetrates the skin after minor damage such as a scratch. This infection results superficial skin damage and crusty patches. Impetigo can be treated with antibiotics.

Source: (2) Ala12Thr polymorphism in the 1A alpha-helical segment of the companion layer-specific keratin K6hf: evidence for a risk factor in the etiology of the common hair disorder pseudofolliculitis barbae. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 Mar;122(3):652-7. PubMed PMID: 15086549. Source: (3) https://www.huidarts.com/ huidaandoeningen/ pseudofolliculitis-barbae/

Contact dermatitis

Clients, and even barbers and hairdressers themselves, may have a contact allergy to p-phenylenediamine (PDD), a substance used in hair dye. In 7% of cases, PDD can lead to problems for the client and/or the barber or hairdresser. Repeated contact with the substance may cause contact dermatitis, which occurs when white blood cells (part of the body’s defence against microorganisms that penetrate the skin) deem PDD to be harmful. The next time the skin comes into contact with PDD, it will recognise the substance as harmful and trigger an inflammatory reaction, causing redness of the skin and itching. Eczema may also appear at the contact points with PDD (the scalp, beard or moustache) and can spread to the surrounding area, such as

the face. For hairdressers and barbers, eczema can appear on your hands. Using gloves isn’t effective, as it doesn’t prevent the allergic reaction. There is no treatment for eczema either, so all you can do is avoid contact with PDD. This means that clients with the allergy can no longer have their hair dyed with PDD, while barbers and hairdressers will have to ask a colleague to handle hair dye. How you can help There are far more scalp problems that you as a hairdresser or barber might come across than those we’ve mentioned here. It’s important to be able to recognise different conditions in the field, so you are more confident in your work and can help your clients as best as possible. Eczema on a client’s face or scalp might not look great, but don’t worry: it’s not infectious. But can you tell when a birthmark on the back of the head is growing and could be melanoma? Can you continue treatment if a client has psoriasis? Can you also dye a client’s hair if they have eczema?

We recommend barbers and hairdressers take a short course in dermatology to build their knowledge and understanding of hair and scalp problems and how to treat them. As a hairdresser or barber, you can help identify relevant hair and scalp problems and provide relevant information to your clients. If you’re in the Netherlands, U-Consultancy offers a two-day course in dermatology. In four part-days, you will learn about: the anatomy of the scalp and hair, psoriasis, eczema, infections and how to treat them, and spots, patches and dermatological problems on the scalp and hairline. If you don’t live in the Netherlands, check to see whether similar training courses are offered in your area. For more information about the dermatology course from U-Consultancy in the Netherlands, go to their website:

LA BARBERÍA DE DIEGO

Collection: ART.116 Hair: Diego Guerrero, La barbería De Diego (ES) Photography: Ernesto Gonca MUA: Inma Styling: La barbería De Diego Products: SkullMen @labarberiadediego

SPAIN

Collection: ART.116 Hair: Diego Guerrero, La barbería De Diego (ES) Photography: Ernesto Gonca MUA: Inma Styling: La barbería De Diego Products: SkullMen @labarberiadediego

ROSS MATHIESON

Hair: Ross Mathieson (UK) Photography: Daniel Mason Photography Model: Troy Douglas Collow @ross_blue_steel_barber, @trumansbarbers

UNITED KINGDOM

Hair: Ross Mathieson (UK) Photography: Daniel Mason Photography Model: Jack Bobbin @ross_blue_steel_barber, @trumansbarbers

ROBERT BRAID

Hair: Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Kai Goodwin @r.braid

UNITED KINGDOM

Hair: Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Dennis French @r.braid

SPAIN

BRAIN ON ACADEMY

Hair: Ismael de Mora, Fran Aranda, Alejandro Valencia (ES) Photography: Jorge Cabrera @brainonacademy

BORJA CARBONELL & DAVID PASTOR

SALONES CV

Collection: B&W Hair: Borja Carbonell & David Pastor (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Fashion: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

Collection: B&W Hair: Borja Carbonell & David Pastor (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Fashion: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

BERNAT SAYOL

SALONES CV

Collection: Attitude Hair: Bernat Sayol (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Styling: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

Collection: Attitude Hair: Bernat Sayol (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Styling: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

FINALIST COLLECTION INTERNATIONAL VISIONARY AWARD 2020, MEN’S CUT 40 FINALIST COLLECTION FÍGARO AWARDS 2020, MEN’S FASHION

Collection: Change Hair: Bernat Sayol (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Styling: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

SALONES CV

BERNAT SAYOL

Collection: Change Hair: Bernat Sayol (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Styling: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

SPAIN

FINALIST COLLECTION INTERNATIONAL VISIONARY AWARD 2020, MEN’S CUT 44 FINALIST COLLECTION AIPP AWARDS 2020, BEST MEN

Collection: NET Hair: Borja Carbonell (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Styling: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

SALONES CV

BORJA CARBONELL

Collection: NET Hair: Borja Carbonell (Salones CV, ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Make Up: Art Team Salones CV Styling: Art Team Salones CV @saloncarlosvaliente

RUSSIA

VLADIMIR ZHURIKHIN

Collection: Street Style Hair: Vladimir Zhurikhin (@met.barber) & Vladislavovich Vladislav (RU) Concept: Vladimir Zhurikhin Photography: @anton_volkov_foto Makeup: @radugawesome @met.barber, @vladislav___ratnikov

BR AND BITE

ANDIS® COMPANY ENTERS NEW ERA WITH REBRANDING CENTERED ON EMPOWERING CREATORS Andis® Company, the leading barbering grooming tools brand, has unveiled a new look and rebrand which focuses on championing creativity and artistry. Andis believes creativity makes the world a better place and takes pride in developing tools and educational resources that help everyone create their way. Front and center of the brand’s new positioning and look is empowering the creator!

“Andis has always been a passionate advocate for creatives and visionaries in the world, as well as those solving practical challenges with our tools at home. Now, with our elevated brand experience and striking new look, we are focusing on what matters most to our company – our community of creators,” said Co-CEO Matt Andis. Andis is reimagining the end-to-end brand experience and introduces a new positioning as a lifestyle brand that empowers creativity within.

“Our new brand identity celebrates a new generation of creators,” said Angie Vlasaty Peterson, Andis Company’s Director of Branding. “The stories of customers using our tools to express their creativity has always been our motivation to innovate, and we are excited to showcase their inspiration and passion with our new look. What matters most is the artistic journey our users embark upon with their Andis tools – creating in the manner they prefer – an idea central to our new tagline, “Create Your Way.” Visit their new website www.andis.com and be inspired by dozens of creators featured for their artistic expression. Scan the QR code for their manifesto video:

@andisclippers

About Andis® Company Andis® Company is a fourthgeneration, family-led business and a market leader in barbering, styling and animal grooming founded in 1922. Its industry-leading clippers, trimmers and styling accessories are used by both professionals and DIYers across the globe. The #1 preferred brand for textured hair, Andis remains committed to leading the category while ensuring quality, durability and innovation. Andis believes that creativity makes the world a better place and takes pride in developing tools and educational resources that help everyone create their way. 53

DEPOT NO. 106 DANDRUFF CONTROL INTENSIVE CREAM SHAMPOO Intensive shampoo for flaky scalp. Developed to counteract the discomfort of dandruff. A creamy formula with a specific and efficient yet gentle action, with a balanced cleansing action. Contains specific ingredients such as zinc pyrithione and a natural active ingredient that contains Brazil nut oil and copaifera extract, with properties which control the disorder and prevents it from reappearing.

18.21 MAN MADE BEARD, HAIR AND SKIN OIL

GROOMING

More information www.depotmaletools.com

Inspired by the iconic heritage of Route 66, 18.21 Man Made introduces a multi-function treatment for beard, skin and hair with a weightless emollient effect. The light, unique formula makes hair feel thicker, without adding any weight, and it strengthens and smoothes the beard. It will also help treat and

calm rough, dry and flaky skin. This non-greasy oil is available in three scents: Absolute Mahogany, Noble Oud and Spiced Vanilla. More information www.1821manmade.com

DAPPER DAN SHAVING SOAP The new „Small Batch“ Shaving Soaps by Dapper Dan are traditional shaving soaps, which are interpreted in a new and contemporary way. They are characterized by an aromatic, mild scent (Peppermint or Sandalwood), easy foaming within seconds and – thanks to glycerine – they offer a very creamy, dense foam. Particularly noteworthy is the packaging. The soap does not have to be put into a shaving bowl, it can be foamed directly in the container. In addition, this can be tidied up again immediately after use and annoying washing of the shaving bowl is no longer necessary. This saves time with the morning shave. More information www.PomadeShop.com

Made specifically for men’s skin, this lightweight facial gel wash deeply cleanses and provides an instant burst of freshness to the skin as the vital first step in an effective skincare routine. Its formula promotes a healthy complexion and leaves the skin feeling instantly cleansed, fresh, and hydrated.

GROOMING

MONAT FOR MEN ESSENTIAL FACE WASH

More information www.monatglobal.com 59

ANDIS® GTX-EXO™ CORDLESS LI TRIMMER With its intuitive shape, the new GTX-EXO™ Cordless Li Trimmer from Andis® Company provides crystal-clear visibility for precision detailing. With the same classic performance of the original cordless T-Outliner®, its corrosion-resistant custom gold GTX-Z deep tooth blade is pre-set with a tighter gap for fine detailing. Its extremely powerful, high-speed rotary motor delivers 7,200 SPM with advanced Constant Speed Technology for ultimate blade performance through all hair types, as its lithium-Ion battery delivers over 100 minutes of runtime on a single charge. Combining the convenience of both corded and cordless operation to eliminate downtime behind the chair GTX-EXO™ features 4 Attachment combs: (1/16”, 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”), a premium charging stand with adapter, blade brush, oil and guard.

IN-SHOP

More information www.andis.com

BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS GOLDFX BLOW DRYER The GOLDFX blow dryer (FXBDG1E), a pure MADE IN ITALY technological and engineering gem, delivers faster drying and long lasting styling results. Maximum airflow, low noise, low vibration and minimum weight provide the necessary comfort. More information www.babylisspro.eu

HERCULES SÄGEMANN PREMIUM CLIPPER COMB

The barber range combs of Hercules Sägemann leaves nothing to be desired. Whether a high-quality machine hair cutting comb for fast, perfectly shaped and soft machine cutting or a handy beard comb for the mustache or beard – everyone will find their right comb. More information www.hercules-saegemann.com

IN-SHOP

Best of Barber from 100 % hard rubber

LES DEUX FRÈRES Jeans

1 Blue de Genes € 199,95

Wallet

2 Secrid € 49,95

Turtleneck

3 Drykorn € 99,95

Blazer

4 QB24

€ 199,95

Drivers cap

5 Stetson € 59,95

Key organiser

6 Orbitkey LIFESTYLE

€ 39,95

Sneakers

7 Copenhagen studios € 169,95

More information www.lesdeuxfreres.nl 62

LIFESTYLE

3 4

BRIDEY JO

INTERV IEW

@brideyjo, @brideyjobarbers 64

BARBER

BABE Bridey Jo is a woman on a mission. She fell in love with the craft of barbering almost five years ago and her career and brand have taken off at a whirlwind pace. At the age of 26, today she owns Bridey Jo Barbers in Wolverhampton, UK and is actively building her brand. She’s encountered prejudices as a woman along the way, but believes things are changing and women should be empowered as barbers and businesspeople. We met up virtually with Bridey Jo to talk about finding your passion, dreaming big and supporting inclusivity.

I’d found my passion and wanted to build my own brand 65

Practice makes perfect Bridey Jo, age 26, learned the craft of barbering through lots of practice and hard work. “I started learning how to cut hair nearly five years ago. I didn’t have any previous training, but just literally fell in love with the trade and taught myself from scratch,” Bridey Jo explains. It wasn’t served to her on a silver platter, she had to make sacrifices and put in the time and effort to follow her dream. “I worked in a bar to pay my rent, whilst using family and friends to cut their hair for free and watching YouTube videos and Instagram tutorials until I was good enough to get my first job.”

A foot in the door After landing her first job, her career gathered pace. “I just grew in my career and moved on to an appointmentonly salon. After that I started freelancing and then decided to open a business. And that’s how it started – I was self-taught, teaching myself to get a foot in the door.” What attracted her to barbering in the first place? “The creative and social side of the profession. I like both the social aspect of it and the fact that it’s so versatile and ever evolving. I just fell in love with it when I started learning how to do it.”

Building a business Bridey Jo opened her business in 2019 with a clear vision of what she wanted Bridey Jo Barbers to be. “I wanted my brand to be very personal and a place for everyone. So it doesn’t matter what gender you are or how old you are. There’s something for everybody. We do luxury packages for older gents for discounted prices. I have my gender-neutral, non-binary people who come in for a crazy creative mullet or mohawk. And I’ve got the young lads coming in for their weekly skin fades. So it’s totally open to anybody.” When asked to name her company’s three core values, she says without hesitation: “Personal, private, professional.”

Fighting prejudices It hasn’t always been easy working as a woman in a maledominated industry. “I’ve experienced prejudices in the past. I’d get comments like: I’ve never had a girl do it before. Or: Can you do men’s hair because you’re a girl? I’m all about equality, so that was offensive, but that was when I was working at other people’s shops. Now I am the face of the business – I am the business, and I am a female and if they don’t like that they don’t come.” Does she think things are changing? “Definitely, I see more women in barbering. I think equality and feminism have evolved a lot in recent years. So you’re seeing a lot more female barbers, more women in business. This used to be a lot rarer but it’s 2021 now and things are changing!” Keeping a handle on social media Bridey Jo has more than 10,000 followers on Instagram and leverages social media to build

her brand and gain new customers and revenue. She says Instagram is an amazing medium for boosting visibility but warns against letting it take over your life. “Instagram is amazing because it boosts the visibility and reach of your brand. It’s important to keep up and stay consistent. But it’s hard to stay on top of social media, it is a job in itself. So don’t let it get you down because it is a job in itself. It’s just good to keep your brand visible because that’s how you build your sales and brand awareness.” Building the brand Bridey Jo is ambitious by nature and once she found her passion in barbering, she knew straightaway she wanted to run her own business and build a brand. “I didn’t want to work for somebody else’s dream. I’d found my passion and wanted to build my own brand.” She has actively built her brand since day one and has developed her own line of products and merchandise. She has plans to take it to an

It’s so versatile and ever evolving

even higher level in the future. “My plan with my brand is to franchise it as a personal place with a barber and a junior. I want to keep pushing my Instagram to go bigger and bigger because I want people to have my brand and franchise it out. I need to get my brand boosted even more to gain more visibility. I’ve got 10K followers on Instagram now, which means I can do a swipe-up feature so people can be instantly redirected to my website where they can purchase products. The plan is to continue to grow, to keep developing the brand. I want to ultimately spend less time with clients and more time on brand and business development, but I’d never be able to not cut hair. My plan is to do both.” Women standing proud Her advice for women in the barbering industry “Just keep crafting, don’t feel outnumbered, be empowered. Don’t be disheartened by working in a male-dominated industry, it should push you and make you want to thrive and push the boundaries. Changing the norm is okay. Work hard, but not too hard.” What is the key to a successful career? “It’s important to make plans and goals and stick to them. But it’s also important to have a balance in life and don’t overwork and overstress to the point where you don’t enjoy it anymore. Know your path and your journey and where you want to go.” 67

68 68

BARBERS & THE CITY

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting the Austrian capital. Check out Vienna’s cool barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting their city. 69

BARBERS & THE CITY

©Tim Walker

R. / TATTOO X BARBER by RAF Camora Nussdorfer Straße 8 1090 Vienna +43 1 9694931 www.r-vienna-barbershop.com @r.tattoo.barber A new “place to be” conquers Vienna: R./TATTOO X BARBER. The cool location with urban, international flair sets new standards as a tattoo and barbershop. Cool men’s styles are created in a unique atmosphere. There are six barber and six tattoo areas, as well as a VIP area in the 300 m2 loft. The perfectly trained barbers work under the direction of Ümit Canta, Head of Barber. The fancy interior design with 5 meter high ceilings and recessed stone walls is impressive. One design highlight follows the other.

None other than rap star RAF Camora who has millions of views on youtube, is behind R./TATTOO X BARBER. Inspired from his time in Barcelona and New York, RAF Camora and his team let the vision of a tattoo & barber concept store in his hometown Vienna come to life. Once you enter the premises, you immediately feel the difference. They say: “The ‘R’ is not a barbershop. Not a tattoo parlor. The ‘R’ is a place where people meet art and each other. In an atmosphere that connects this art with daily life in the city. The ‘R’ is a hideaway in the middle of the city, for people of all backgrounds, ages and cultures. The ‘R’ is a dream that the artist RAF Camora realizes together with his team. A way to use his creativity in a meaningful way and to leave his mark on his home country. An own fashion line

and care products for men of all ages round off the overall concept of ‘R’.” OUR HOTSPOTS Restaurant Galaxie Löhrgasse 22 Vienna +43 1 982 30 41 www.restaurant-galaxie.at RAF Camora grew up in the 15th district of Vienna so he spent most of his time in restaurant Galaxie which remains one of his favorite restaurants in Vienna. XxXL Restaurant Wurlitzergasse 87 Vienna +43 1 4808996 www.restaurant-xxxl.at Simply one of the best grill restaurants in Vienna!

El Gaucho Praterstrasse 1 (Design Tower) Vienna +43 (01) 2121210 www.elgaucho.at

AMICIS Men Tuchlauben 14 Vienna T: +43 1 513 21 10 www.shopamicis.com

For the best steaks, head off to El Gaucho in the city center.

Steffl department store 6th floor (sneakers) Kärntner Straße 19 Vienna www.steffl-vienna.at

“Das Loft” rooftop bar SO/ Vienna Praterstraße 1 +43 1 90 616 8110 www.dasloftwien.at This rooftop bar is located right in the city center with the best view over Vienna, great drinks and a very polite and professional team.

Distorted people Lärchenfelder Straße 51 Vienna www.distortedpeople.com RAF and the team love to shop at these stores!

©Tim Walker

BARBERS & THE CITY

Brothers’ Barbershop Neubaugasse 81/1, 1070, Vienna Wagramer St, 1220, Vienna www.barbershop.wien @brothersbarbershopvienna Brothers’ Barbershop, a family run business, brings together top class barbering services in a vibrant atmosphere where you can sit back and relax knowing you are in good hands. Barbershop owner Richard McHardy says: “It all begins with a warm welcome from our reception team offering you a selection of fine complimentary drinks before handing over to our international and multi-talented team of barbers. We ensure our

customers are relaxing long before they get to the barber chair! We are not in the business of just haircuts or shaves, but to make sure every customer leaves feeling and looking like a star.” OUR HOTSPOTS Il Sestante Piaristengasse 50 Vienna +43 1 402 98 94 www.sestante.at This is my favorite restaurant; they serve the best pizza in Vienna! Sitting outside in the courtyard by the church is a great setting.

Hefenbrüder Zieglergasse 42 Vienna +4319409400 www.xn--hefenbrder-geb.at My favorite bar! Hefenbrüder has a great selection of quality craft beers and a shuffleboard table which is great fun after a couple of drinks!

BARBERS & THE CITY

Vienna Barberclub Vienna Barberclub Neustiftgasse 114 1070, Vienna +43 664 952 5186 www.viennabarberclub.at @viennabarberclub Vienna Barber Club is an oasis of relaxation in a familiar atmosphere, where you always get the same quality. They really give priority to quality and to the wishes of their guests. They say: “Here your barber doesn’t only know your name, he is also your conversation partner and your stylist. He knows exactly how you like your hairand beard style. He will devote at least 60 minutes to your appearance, while you have a good time. Our vision is to create a place in which the

barbershop adds value, where our customers feel comfortable, being pampered, leaving the facility with a higher selfesteem and where they have a memorable experience. We strive to earn the trust of our customers and deliver the so called “WOW” service.” OUR HOTSPOTS Rox music & grill SCS Rox Musicbar Shopping City Süd Vösendorf, entree 1 (next to Saturn) Allee Galerie 468 Vienna www.rox-musicbar.com/scs/ This is my favorite pub because their service is always impeccable!

Schloss Schönbrunn Schönbrunner Schloßstraße 47 Vienna +43 1 811 13-0 www.schoenbrunn.at If you visit Vienna, I recommend visiting this beautiful castle.

A FAMILY TRADITION DATING BACK NEARLY 175 YEARS

INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL DE BRUIJN

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

De Bruijn Haarmode has been an integral part of the Dutch city of Utrecht for nearly 175 years. The barbering family goes back no less than six generations. The salon, whose clientele is made up mainly of men, is run by Michael de Bruijn (age 39) and his father Peter de Bruijn (age 67). His mother operates a pedicure studio located at the back of the business premises. Michael has been in the barbering profession for more than 20 years.

Each salon has its own flavour

Steeped in history Michael: “We’re the oldest barbering family in Utrecht, and we have the city’s oldest salon. We know from what we’ve been able to find in the city archives that the first De Bruijn that carried out this profession in Utrecht was Petrus de Bruijn. In 1848, he combined the profession of barbering with his work as a barman and publican. Many more De Bruijns would follow in his footsteps. My grandfather, Petrus Hendrikus de Bruijn, opened a hair salon in 1950 located at Springweg 20 in Utrecht. It’s where De Bruijn Haarmode is still located and also where I live. Because my grandfather’s father – my great grandfather – died at a young age, my grandfather learned the barbering craft from his eldest brother. My grandfather then passed on this know-how to his son, my father. He took over the business in 1986 and I became a co-partner in 2007. That makes me the sixth generation of De Bruijns to carry on a tradition of barbering that goes back more than a century and a half.”

Keep women’s and men’s hairdressing separate Michael grew up in the hairdressing business. He started helping out in the salon on Thursday evenings and Saturdays when he was just 13. He’d cut his neighbourhood friends’ hair during the staff training evening on Tuesday evenings. Because he’d already gained a lot of hairdressing knowledge and skills, after finishing high school he followed a practical-learning apprenticeship programme. This meant he went to college one day a week and learned the trade on the job at his father’s salon on the other days. He was immediately drawn to the barbering trade and didn’t like that he had to also master women’s hairdressing as part of the training programme. It even ended up taking him a year longer to complete his course of study because he skipped so many women’s hairdressing classes. In the end, he passed the women’s hairdressing module in three months with the help of one of the employees working

at his father’s salon in Zeist. He looks back on it as a frustrating experience when he had to ‘learn something in which I wasn’t the least bit interested.’ Michael continues: “I see it as a positive development that there is now once again separate training for men’s hairdressing and barbering. That unfortunately wasn’t the case when I went to college, and I was consequently forced to complete a mixed women’s and men’s hairdressing course of study.” More branches, more worries His father had three salons and Michael has worked in all three of them. Michael: “Each salon is different with its own distinctive flavour. Over the years, my father divested the salons in Hilversum and Zeist. It’s just a fact of life that the more branches you have, the more difficulties you have with employees. What’s more, it doesn’t necessarily mean you will earn more if you have three branches. We’ve got a strong footing in Utrecht. We know the neighbourhood inside and out

and this is where I grew up. Things are a lot more relaxed now that we can focus all our attention on one salon. My parents are planning on stepping out of the company in September. My father might stay on after that for another year on a salaried basis. But he’s now 67 and he’s ready for retirement. He has, after all, been standing on his feet for 50 years.” Working with my father “Most of everything I know I learned from my father in practice, because at the end of the day you learn the most on the job. Not only did I have to pick up the technical skills, but I also had to learn to do everything with a comb and scissors and wasn’t allowed to touch clippers. But more than that, I learned a lot about human nature. You’ve got to learn to sense what clients want. If they look at their phone nowadays, or at the newspaper back in the day, you know they’re not looking for conversation. It’s so important to really listen and communicate with your client. My father did competition work and you can tell. It made him work with much more precision. When he blow-dries someone’s hair, he creates an angular look with corners. He’s also an expert at creating curls with a blow dryer. The older guys think that’s great. But there are also young students who ask for my father. On the other hand there are older clients who now want me rather than my father to cut their hair. I think it’s just that they want to hear different stories, because there’s absolutely nothing wrong with my father’s barbering skills. I like working with my father and consider him a friend.” When asked if they have a specific division of responsibilities, Michael says: “He does the bookkeeping and I do the purchasing.” Family business Even though De Bruijn Haarmode does have female clients, 85% of the clientele is made up of men. And while Michael wants to keep

We put our heart and soul into it it that way, he also says: “The women also keep the cash register ringing.” Even though Michael doesn’t cut women’s hair, he is happy that his colleague does. Michael’s passion and experience lie in men’s hairdressing. He isn’t afraid of competition from barbershops in Utrecht. Michael: “It’s all about where you personally feel

at home. We have an intimate hair salon with three chairs now and four before the pandemic. It’s a family business with a personal approach. We have low employee turnover, which means clients have a real connection with us. They see that we put our heart and soul into it. We have a high percentage of regular clients, even though we’ve lost

about 20% of our revenue due to the Covid measures which means many of the clients who work at local companies are now working from home and go to a barber nearby where they live.” Humour Michael says he has tonnes of funny stories from the past: “We used to have a room behind the salon. You could lock it with a latch on the door. Once my grandfather was lured into the room and then they locked the door. Then they cleared everything out of the display case. So they put all the glass bottles, shampoos and such on the floor. They thought it was hilarious, my grandfather wasn’t amused... Or the time that my grandfather thought there was a gas leak. He smelt a strange odour and checked all the pipes. Come to find out his client had eaten a lot of garlic the night before. Because he never ate 81

garlic, he didn’t recognise the odour.” We used to have a lot more time for that kind of tomfoolery – we wouldn’t think twice about leaving a client in the chair to go outside and direct the traffic. You can’t do that these days; everything is much more fast-paced. People don’t tell us as many jokes, everybody now chats on WhatsApp.” Blunder “What was the biggest blunder my dad ever made? I guess it was about 10 to 15 years ago when we were taking part in a pilot to test clippers. My dad had a young guy in his chair who had pretty long hair. He wanted a short style and wanted my dad to cut his hair with clippers. The clipper guards were made of plastic and would expand the longer you used them. So at a certain point the clipper guard fell off and my dad accidentally shaved a pretty big hole on one side of his haircut. Fortunately the client took it in his stride and remained a client! Once, early on in my career, I cut somebody so badly in his ear with a pair of styling scissors, that he fainted. I was never allowed to cut his hair again.” Scalp conditions Michael sometimes sees clients who have scalp conditions. “It’s often the result of scalp irritations connected with styling products. The symptoms are red and scaly spots. Styling products contain various substances that can trigger irritations, which can cause you to develop an allergy. His advice to clients is to wash out the styling products thoroughly, preferably twice, before going to bed. He also regularly sees shaving irritations. This primarily occurs with electric razors. The electric razor blades get hot, which causes the skin to become irritated. If you develop razor burn or skin irritation, 82

you’re better off to stop using an electric razor or to let your beard grow. For clients with scalp problems, we offer a special medicinal shampoo or refer them to a dermatologist. We sometimes also see clients who have unusual spots on their scalp that have become larger. And sometimes we notice small lumps. Or bald spots, which are usually due to “Alopecia Areata” (ed. an autoimmune disease that causes hair to fall out in small patches). We naturally always refer these clients to the GP or dermatologist. Since we have a lot of regular

clients, it’s easy for us to notice changes.” A Royal Warrant of Appointment! When asked about his ambitions for the future, Michael says: “We will celebrate our 175 anniversary two years from now. Given this special jubilee year, I hope we will be awarded a Royal Warrant of Appointment to the Court of the Netherlands. It would not only be wonderful for us, but also for the city of Utrecht.” We wholeheartedly believe he deserves this distinction!

www.debruijnhaarmode.nl

C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R

WHY SHOULD BARBERS KNOW ABOUT SKINCARE? Our skin is constantly in direct contact with the outside world. It is subjected to everyday stresses, as well as the body’s own internal mechanism. Smoke, pollution, stress, anxiety, age, lack of sleep, lack of fluids, and ultraviolet rays, are all influences on how our skin looks, feels, ages and regenerates. Proper care and daily maintenance of your skin is one of the best gifts a guy can give himself. Men’s skin is 30% thicker than female skin and thus requires its own products to cater for the skin type.

In the last decade, men have started to understand the importance of a daily skincare routine. The skincare industry has responded with a multitude of products aimed and designed specifically for men. These products range from cleaning, scrubbing, moisturising and cell regeneration.

The skin on the face and neck in particular needs a lot of attention. Unlike the skin anywhere else it has a high concentration of sebaceous glands, especially around the T zone. This area covers the top of the brow to your nose and the middle of the chin and because of shaving and facial needs, this skin needs more care. You’ll be surprised how many men use harsh cleansers on their faces including shower gel and body soaps. These products pride themselves on that squeaky clean feeling. But many disturb the skins natural pH balance leaving it dry and tight. Furthermore, if the skin is dry the body produces more sebum to compensate for the dryness. Exacerbating conditions such as acne, pimples and blackheads. If on the other hand, the skin is already dry the last thing you want to do is leave the skin even dryer with dehydrating products. When considering recommending skincare to clients, concentrate on products that restore and maintain a balanced ph. A balance or a neutral 6.5 to 7 range is more beneficial to the skin. You also want to ensure the sebaceous glands are producing the right amount of sebum, a natural moisturiser the body produces. In order to achieve this, it is vital that you understand the skin type that is going to be in your chair.

What is their skin type? Oily skin Oily skin has overactive sebaceous glands that leave too much oil on the surface of the skin. The skin takes on a shinier appearance; they tend to have more pimple blackheads and suffer from acne breakouts. Do not use drying products on this skin type as it only makes the skin go into overdrive producing more oil to compensate. Over scrubbing can produce the same result, overstimulating the sebaceous glands. Instead, use essential oils to help restore and maintain the acid mantle. Use a mild oil-free moisturiser after shaving then apply an aftershave gel. Dry Skin Dry skin is caused by insufficient sebum production. As a result, the acid mantle becomes unbalanced, the skin can become dehydrated, the pores tighten and where dry skin is present it is prone to develop wrinkles faster. Avoid drying astringents on the face like shower gel or harsh cleansers to replace the moisture use products that contain essential oils enhance sebum production. Use of cream-based aftershave balm after shaving.

FREE SHAVING CLASS

Sensitive skin Sensitive skin can often cause uncomfortable itching, burning and redness. This type of skin can be more prone to allergic reactions more than other skin types. With sensitive skin treat with mildness and moderation, don’t use anything harsh at all everything should be soothing and calming including ultra-mild cleansers and moisturisers. Aim for alcohol-free, fragrancefree and colour free. Prematurely ageing skin Prematurely ageing skin is usually characterised by the appearance of having dryness, early wrinkles and fine lines. This is the result of loss of moisture, poor oxygenation and advanced collagen depletion. We would recommend the use of a scrub twice a week to help boost collagen production and rid the skin of dark dead skin cells. Try having regular facials this will help to stimulate blood circulation and cell regeneration, the keys to young- and healthylooking skin. Your knowledge is the one thing that’s going to separate you and your business from the barbershop or barber next door. Educate your clients with this information so they can truly understand that you are the expert they need. Once you have identified the skin type recommend products that will complement your clients’ skincare routine. Chris Foster The profile guy!

If you really want to know more about men’s skincare, then feel free to sign up for my free shaving class available to everyone who is a reader of BarberSociety magazine. To claim your free shave class leave me a Direct message with the words ‘FREE CLASS’ on Instagram @theprofile.guy 85

Berlin Barber Expo, Berlin (DE), August 2021

The three organisers FLTR: @ebonyandivoryberlin, @dawidthebarber, @michaelehlers

@imad.maestro030

@hayden_cassidy

90 @freshprince.thebarber