THE
OF
MARK VAN WESTEROP YOU’RE ONLY AS GOOD AS THE WEAKEST LINK WITHIN
& THE
HOTSPOTS CAPE TOWN HEART-WARMING TALE OF HERRAMENN IN ICELAND THE
AND EDUCATION WERE IN HIS HANDS THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING
BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE FALL 2022 | #13 | € 12.50
POWER
A TEAM WINNER
YOUR TEAM BARBERS
CITY
PRACTICE
Collection: Mr Afpel
Hair: Olga García (ES)
Photography: David Arnal
Jose Luís Blasco
Visori Fashionart
Makeup:
Styling:
@peluqueriaolgagarcia
EDITORIAL
HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2022 Interview with Mark van Westerop
BUILDING THE ULTIMATE CREATIVE TEAM Column Chris Foster
TRENDS
Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora, Christian Ríos, Aaron Michael, Laurence Edmonds, Matt Clarke, Mike Taylor & Bonds Barber Team, Olga García, Paul James Graham, Rino Riccio, Rhys Whitehouse, Richard Gronas, Nikolai Tsirampidis
THE POWER OF A TEAM
THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING
Power couple Dennis & Danielle Kil share their story
… Hand-crafted Tony Mora boots PRODUCT NEWS Lifestyle, Grooming, In-Shop BARBER LADY Interview with Tracy Mangan BARBERS & THE CITY Cape Town ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Andri Tyr Kristleifsson from Iceland THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO … Barber Connect, Keune 100 years event, Berlin Barber Expo 4 6 12 14 54 58 62 67 80 72 84 Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Leny Vlas Writers Steven Walker Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com. 3 Collection: Chevalier Hair: Christian Ríos Hair Couture (ES) Photography & Retouche: Esteban Roca @christianriossalon
As a barbershop owner, I believe it’s important to work with and as part of a great team. I am lucky to be surrounded by great barbers who understand their profession and for whom collaboration is key. It does not only determine the atmosphere on the shop floor, which will make our customers feel at home, but also growth. A team that is like a well-oiled machine gives me and my team members a lot of peace of mind. Unfortunately, one of my barbers is leaving us. Fortunately, this is not due to the work environment, but he wants to broaden his horizons in another field. So I have to find a new team member. But how do I attract the right barber to fit flawlessly into my team? In this edition, several barbers give their views not only on this matter, but also on other issues relating to a team.
For Mark van Westerop, Hairdresser of the Year 2022 the Netherlands, evening training sessions are very important. He and his team invest a lot of time in training so that his team continues to develop. But he also enjoys working with a permanent team, consisting of a photographer, make-up artist and stylist, when creating hair collections. Read his inspiring story about his path to success on page 6.
Power couple Danielle and Dennis Kil, who provide team training themselves and have developed a Train the Trainer programme, also approach the questions from the point of view of a barber looking for a team that suits them best. After all, the place where you end up working determines
The South African barber shop of Isaac
The South African barber shop of Isaac
TEAM
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how good you will become. They share even more valuable knowledge that is worth reading (p. 54).
Chris Foster gives you tips on how to create the ultimate creative team and barber lady Tracy Mangan believes that working in a team is important for freelancers too.
South African barbershops
This time, Barbers & the City looks at beautiful Cape Town. I visited the unique barbershop Mr. Cobbs the Barber. Years ago, I also called by this barbershop and met its founder, Bob Lansdowne. He originally came from London, fell in love with Vandah from South Africa, and decided to bring a piece of Victorian England to
EDITORIAL
South Africa. Unfortunately, he has since passed away, but his wife Vandah continues the business with her business partner Johan. The other Cape Town barbershops in this edition, as well as their hotspots, are also worth a visit. During my trip through South Africa, I came across Isaac’s barbershop near the border with Swaziland. A stark contrast to the Cape Town barbershops, but Isaac is just as proud of his barbershop and craft as any other barber. I promised to share images of his barbershop (see the pictures on the left).
More
Another artisanal skill, but of a completely different kind, is bootmaking. The internationally
renowned brand Tony Mora knows how to do this like no other shoemaker. If you want a pair of good boots this autumn that is available online, check them out on page 58. Furthermore, in this edition you will find the heartwarming family history of the Icelandic barber Andri, whose grandfather was a master of the flat top, product news, cool hair collections as well as a photo report of barber events. And those photos are also created through teamwork. Thank you Barber Maurice for taking pictures for us on Barber Connect UK! Finally, a thank you to the team of BarberSociety Magazine and BarberSociety Live: without you, we wouldn’t be able to achieve all this!
Happy reading!
Marc van de Hare
Founder BarberSociety Owner of Van de Hare
Amsterdam Barbers
PS: Remember to mark Sunday 23 April 2023 in your diary! Because that is when BarberSociety Live 2023 will be taking place!
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@markvanwesterop
OF THE YEAR HAIRDRESSER
INTERVIEW 6
INTERVIEW WITH MARK VAN WESTEROP
Mark van Westerop (47) has been named the Netherlands’ new ‘Hairdresser of the Year 2022’. This marks a major milestone: he won the top prize with a men’s collection for the first time in the history of the Coiffure Award. It is a brilliant recognition of men’s hairdressing. Van Westerop also picked up last year’s ‘Best Male Collection’ award at the Live TCT International Awards and took home the title of ‘Best Ambassador’ at this year’s event. In addition to running his Pro-Solo salon in Alkmaar, the Netherlands, he provides educational training and shows and carries out photoshoots. We spoke with Mark about his path to success, his drive and his new role as Global Ambassador for haircare brand Keune.
On stage
Mark: “When I was about 16, my dream was actually to attend drama school. But that didn’t work out, so I decided to go to hairdressing college instead.
I completed two apprenticeships, both of which made me think: ‘That’s absolutely not the way I want to do things.’ Even though both businesses were nice places, I wanted more and had a real hunger for education. I wanted to learn and discover all sorts of new things. l started my own business when I was just 19 years old because even then I had strong opinions and feelings about how I wanted to do things myself.
I started out small with just two chairs and gained a lot of education along the way. Even back then I knew I wanted to do shows and work for magazines.
I seized every opportunity I could to assist in one way or another by shadowing on the set and taking part in shows in the Netherlands and abroad. That’s how I gradually achieved growth step by step. And now everything has come full circle because I’ve ended up being on stage after all!”
Ajax doesn’t just go to the Arena on Sunday for a match
The path to success
Mark has picked up numerous awards through the years. This is the third time in his career for him to be named ‘Hairdresser of the Year’ and as a result he is now being installed in the coveted Coiffure Award Hall of Fame. What does Mark see as the secret to his successes? “A lot of people think I have talent. But ultimately it all comes down to what you do with that talent. I think people who have willpower, perseverance and vision achieve more than people who only have a talent. I hold a training evening once a week, except during July and August, at my salon in Alkmaar. It doesn’t matter at what stage
you are in your career, you’re expected to attend every training evening. Colouring, styling and cutting are three totally different disciplines. So you must make sure you’re always up to date. That’s especially true now that thanks to internet everyone knows exactly what is going on in the world. Our philosophy is that training is vitally important.”
Team effort
What must you do to ensure your team excels? Mark says: “Ensure as a business owner that everyone on your team can develop their skills in the profession. Don’t be afraid to lose people if they grow in their career. Give them every
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possible opportunity to succeed. Because if you don’t and someone else does, you’ll lose them anyway. Dare to give. I see loyalty as being very important within my team. You’ve got to respect each other. I invest my time in training evenings, education and so on. My aim is to serve as a good example for them in the hope that they will as a result also be inspired and motivated. You get the most out of your team by listening to each other and discovering what someone enjoys. In keeping with this, I try to let my team members
do what they excel at. When I’m drawing up the schedule for the training events, I take into account both the different disciplines and my team’s participation in competitions. So everyone works at his or her own level, whether that’s junior or senior. The training evenings can also focus on topics such as design or consultancy. This is one of the reasons why I always work on the shopfloor for two set days a week. That way I know what’s feasible and realistic and I can properly guide and manage my
team. Maintaining a strong team is obviously one of your greatest challenges as a business owner. But maintaining a good work-life balance is the biggest challenge of all! I’ve found that exercising for an hour a day helps me get that balance right.”
Ambition
Mark has drive and ambition. He says he isn’t very patient and gets bored easily. “If you’re doing something you love, it doesn’t really feel like work. You want to find out more and more about it.
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Everyone on our team has the ambition to make a difference in the world of hairdressing. We inspire and push each other as like-minded professionals. You try out things you’ve seen. This gives rise to creative jam sessions and cross-pollination inspiration.”
He continues: “When you can draw on extensive experience, you increasingly develop your own distinctive signature. Participating in competitions makes you delve deeper and think long and hard about what you want to portray. You ask yourself questions such as: ‘Who am I? What do I want to convey? Where do I stand?’ I start considering these questions seven or eight months before the deadline for submitting a collection for the Coiffure Award. What do I find inspiring right now? I derive inspiration from music genres, museums, films or TV. At first you could say it’s like a big databank of images and feelings. I draw the greatest part of my inspiration from Pinterest. Because I don’t want to be influenced by other
hairdressers, I mainly look at images from outside the hairdressing industry, such as paintings, sculptures, architecture, culinary dishes and so forth. I can be triggered by the colour usage, pattern or texture. My next step is to filter those ideas. What are the similarities? Is it a polished feeling or more rough around the edges? During this process, I keep crystallising the ideas into specific looks. Sometimes people ask: ‘How do the collections you create benefit consumers?’ But
from the first time a new client sits in your chair, you set about getting to know your client. What makes a client feel good and comfortable? How does a client behave? The more often a client returns, the better you get to know them. What went well last time? Which elements of the hair style can we improve? The same goes for the collections you create. Taking part in competitions lets you focus more seriously on your craft and identity. And it gives you a way to keep challenging yourself.”
Don’t be afraid to lose people if they grow in their career
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The Corona collection
“I actually call the men’s collection through which I have now won the Coiffure Award my Corona collection. I knew I wanted to shoot it in black-andwhite. The contrast in the world was so distinct – so black-andwhite or left or right. We had very little colour left in our lives; we ran up against restrictions all around us, everything had to fit within the lines. The world was very much divided into boxes, limitations and pigeonholing. That’s the idea behind the style divided into segments. In contrast, I also created a look that was white, blond. And another look that was in turn very dark. This signifies the
polarisation that had arisen in society. The hair style with an unsettled structure represented for me the chaos in the world, so much was going on, but there was a light at the end of the tunnel. Because we kept being told that things would get better. That’s why I created an upward shape with a sort of point at the top. I see each look as being created from a different perspective, based on how I was feeling at the time. I was named ‘Hairdresser of the Year’ in both 2014 and 2017. When I now look back at those collections, I see exactly what inspired me then and where I stood in my career at that moment. But I’ve now moved far beyond where
I was then. So you see your development. It’s remarkable that the jury commended my current collection for the technically outstanding work, while I felt like I’d never worked as freely as I did with this collection.”
Tips
When asked whether he has tips for increasing the odds of winning, Mark replies: “I’m convinced that it is very important to create based on your own feelings. Keep your eyes open to what is going on in the world around you. Dare to take risks, dare to think out of the box. Don’t copy anything from previous winning collections. I unfortunately see
Hair & Photography: Mark van Westerop
Angelique Stapelbroek
Ed Noyons
Coiffure
2022
10 I continue to be fascinated by the most beautiful material in existence, namely hair and everything you can do with it!
Makeup:
Styling:
Winner
Awards
that a lot and think that’s a real shame because it doesn’t move our industry forward.
You’re also only as good as the weakest link within your team. So carefully choose the photographer, make-up artist and stylist you want to collaborate with. I prefer to work with the same photographers I collaborate with throughout the year. So we work together several times a year. We try things, make improvements and fine-tune everything. It’s actually the same process as with a client. At Ajax it’s also important that the team comes together multiple times. And it’s important to take an in-depth look at photography, make-up and styling. It’s all about the total concept. When you have a better understanding of all the different disciplines, you can anticipate this during the creation of the collection. It also helps, of course, if the concept you’re envisioning is already very clear. That enables you to realise the concept more effectively and quickly.”
Keune’s new Global Ambassador Mark is the new Global Ambassador of haircare brand Keune and will focus in this role on the further development of the Color & Style collection. How did this collaboration come about? “We came to more or less of a standstill during Corona because we could not do very much. I wanted to use that period as a time of contemplation. So we discussed topics within the team such as: ‘Where do we stand now, where do we want to go, what do we want to give our clients?’ I became a Wella Ambassador ten years ago and I wanted a new challenge within this context. I’m someone who takes a very personal approach. I like short lines of communication with fast actions and reactions. I came into contact with Keune late last year. I gradually came to realise that we are an excellent match. Their sustainability vision appeals to me. As does the fact that they are a family company with a high level of mutual engagement, while operating in 89 countries.
That gives me the opportunity to convey my vision on “hair” around the world. I am responsible for the development of activities including an own Color & Style collection and also get to participate in the product development process. That is beneficial to both my clients and my work as a hair artist. Awardwinning hairdresser Louise Vlaar, who works on my team as a master stylist and educator, is going to serve as a National Keune Educator. So this collaboration is also giving my team a boost!”
In closing
Mark says in conclusion: “Keune gives me the opportunity to create a new collection every year based on my own complete creative freedom. A collection that I can share with multiple countries, can adapt to an educational programme and bring to life in shows. That’s where the challenge for me lies. I continue to be fascinated by the most beautiful material in existence, namely “hair” and everything you can do with it!”
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BUILDING THE ULTIMATE CREATIVE TEAM?
As a coach, I get to speak to many barbershop owners and one of the biggest obstacles to growth in their business is finding good consistent staff. Staffing issues have been a global problem since the pandemic where many industries are struggling to find staff.
In this article, I want to explore how barbershop owners can really elevate the profile of their business to attract some of the besttalented barbers in the industry. Not only grow your business but have a sustainable future where you can hand over your business to the key people within it so they can intern grow your brand and the profile of the business.
Strong team
Every business owner knows that having a strong team is essential to success. But what makes for a strong team? Is it a group of “rockstars,” with amazing individual skills and talents?
Or is it a well-oiled machine, with clear roles and systems that everyone follows?
In reality, it’s the latter. A team of rockstars may be impressive in the short term, but their individualism can quickly create chaos. Each one is trying to do their own thing. They may be brilliant at what they do, but they’re not working together towards a common goal. This can lead to confusion and conflict, and ultimately, it will slow down your business.
On the other hand, a team that works like a well-oiled machine may not have the same flashy appeal, but they will be more effective and efficient in the long run. A team that follows a clear system knows exactly what they need to do and how they need to do it. There’s no confusion or conflict because everyone is working towards the same goal.
So, if you want to build a strong, durable business, focus on creating a system that people can follow. The system will be your rockstar - not the personalities in your team.
12 COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER
Philosophy
A clearly outlined philosophy and systems will help attract staff that want a structure so they can see the direct pathway to success by joining your barbershop. By being clear about your philosophy from the beginning, it will be easier to attract like-minded individuals who are looking for a place to grow their careers in the barbering industry. When you have a team of people who share your vision and values, it creates a positive
1 Compete for the Bigger Win
working environment that is conducive to success.
In addition, potential employees will appreciate knowing what your barbershop stands for and what they can expect from working there. By being upfront about your philosophy, you will be able to attract the best talent for your business.
Tips
Attracting top talent to your business can be a challenge, but it’s important to remember that it’s worth the effort. By following these simple tips, you can create a team of professionals who share your vision and values.
Build team spirit by encouraging team members to enter competitions. Even going to the competition with some sort of uniform will help them feel that they are part of a team striving for success. It is the act of entering as a team that emphasises promoting your shop to other barbers. If everyone is on the same page, then it not only looks more professional but also helps create a sense of camaraderie. This is especially important in barbershop competitions because it takes more than just skill to win - it takes teamwork. We all want to be a part of a group that supports us and rewards our success, whether we realise it or not. So, if you’re looking to give your team an extra boost, consider entering them into a competition. It could be just what they need to come together and reach new heights.
2 Photographic Collections
There’s no point reinventing the wheel when it comes to success - brands that constantly show their work as a team tend to do better than those that don’t. Some of the most successful hairdressing brands allow their employees to regularly express their creativity with photographic collections. Not only does this
attract new talent to your business because they can see that you are investing in the team, but it also shows your prospective clients what your team is capable of.
By giving your team the opportunity to showcase their talent, you’re not only increasing your chances of success, but you’re also showing the world what makes your brand unique. Whilst creating collections that can be used to enter competitions.
3 Training and Development
Finally, provide ongoing training and development opportunities. It’s important to remember that your team is always evolving, and they will continue to learn and grow their skillsets no matter how long they have been with your business.
By providing ongoing training and development opportunities, you can help them stay up to date on the latest trends and techniques in the industry. This will not only help them improve their skills, but it will also keep them motivated and inspired. When your team is constantly learning and growing, they will be more likely to stick around for the long haul.
If you’re looking for more strategies for building the profile of your barbershop or for personal branding feel free to drop me a message on Instagram @theprofile.guy or send me an email at info@theprofileguy.com.
Chris Foster, The Profile Guy www.theprofileguy.com
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Collection:
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Silence Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademyACADEMY BRAIN ON SPAIN
15 Collection: Silence Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
Collection: Silence Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES)
Photography: David Arnal
Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
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17 Collection: Silence Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
Silence, the movie
Collection: Silence Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES)
Photography: David Arnal
Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
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19 Collection: The Roll Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy ACADEMY BRAIN ON SPAIN
Collection:
Photography:
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The Roll Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES)
David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
21 Collection: The Roll Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
Photography:
Collection: The Roll Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES)
David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy 22
Photography:
The Roll, the movie
23 Collection: The Roll Hair: Francisco Aranda, Ismael de Mora (ES)
David Arnal Styling: Mikoto Video: Bestcaption @brainonacademy
RÍOS CHRISTIAN SPAIN 24 Collection: Chevalier Hair: Christian Ríos Hair Couture (ES) Photography & Retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Josep López Styling: Christian Ríos Hair Couture Products: Revlon, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon
Collection: Chevalier Hair: Christian Ríos Hair Couture (ES) Photography & Retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Josep López Styling: Christian Ríos Hair Couture Products: Revlon, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon 25
Collection: Chevalier
Christian Ríos Hair Couture (ES)
Photography & Retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Josep López
Styling: Christian Ríos Hair Couture
Products: Revlon, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon
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Hair:
AARON MICHAEL
UNITED KINGDOM
Hair: Aaron Michael (UK)
Photography: Liam Oakes @am_barbershop
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Collection:
(UK)
Photography: Laurence Edmonds @Laurence.edmonds
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The Lunar Collection Hair: Laurence Edmonds
EDMONDS LAURENCE UNITED KINGDOM
29 Collection: The Lunar Collection Hair: Laurence Edmonds (UK) Photography: Laurence Edmonds @Laurence.edmonds
Hair: Laurence Edmonds (UK) Photography & styling: Laurence Edmonds @Laurence.edmonds
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31 Collection: Night of the Hunter Hair & Styling: Matt Clarke (AU) Photography: Theresa Hall Makeup: Brooke Stanley Models: Toby Jessen, Luis Campbell, Mikko Blues, Tiziano Nero, Adam Head, Jack Melenewycz, Gabe Newell @the_sophisticated_scumbag MATT CLARKE AUSTRALIA
Jessen,
32 Collection: Night of the Hunter Hair & Styling: Matt Clarke (AU) Photography: Theresa Hall Makeup: Brooke Stanley Models: Toby
Luis Campbell, Mikko Blues, Tiziano Nero, Adam Head, Jack Melenewycz, Gabe Newell @the_sophisticated_scumbag
Collection:
Photography:
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Night of the Hunter Hair & Styling: Matt Clarke (AU)
Theresa Hall Makeup: Brooke Stanley Models: Toby Jessen, Luis Campbell, Mikko Blues, Tiziano Nero, Adam Head, Jack Melenewycz, Gabe Newell @the_sophisticated_scumbag
MIKE TAYLOR Collection: Tailored Hair & Styling: Mike Taylor & Bonds Barber Team (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Products: Denman Images: FPA @miketayloreducation, @bonds_barbershop UNITED KINGDOM 34
35 Collection: Tailored Hair & Styling: Mike Taylor & Bonds Barber Team (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Products: Denman Images: FPA @miketayloreducation, @bonds_barbershop
Collection: Tailored Hair & Styling: Mike Taylor & Bonds Barber Team (UK)
Photography: Liam Oakes
Products: Denman Images: FPA @miketayloreducation, @bonds_barbershop
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Collection: Tailored Hair & Styling: Mike Taylor & Bonds Barber Team (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Products: Denman Images: FPA @miketayloreducation, @bonds_barbershop 37
Collection: Mr Afpel
Hair: Olga García (ES)
Photography: David Arnal Makeup: Jose Luís Blasco
Styling: Visori Fashionart
@peluqueriaolgagarcia 38 OLGA GARCÍASPAIN FINALIST AIPP AWARDS 2021/2022, BEST MEN CATEGORY
Collection: Mr Afpel Hair: Olga García (ES) Photography: David Arnal Makeup: Jose Luís Blasco Styling: Visori Fashionart @peluqueriaolgagarcia 39
Nautical Escape
& styling: Paul James Graham (AU)
Photography: Nathan Duff Make Up: Holly Smith
Collection:
Hair, colour
@paulandpaulsalon 40 GRAHAM PAUL JAMES AUSTRALIA
Escape
James Graham (AU)
&
Photography: Nathan Duff Make Up: Holly Smith
Collection:
The making of Nautical Escape
Nautical
Hair, colour
styling: Paul
@paulandpaulsalon 41
Collection: BackUp Hair: Rino Riccio (UK) Hair Assistant: Manifesto team Photography: William Ferchichi Make Up: Yasmine Brown @rinoriccio, @manifesto_ldn 42 RINO RICCIO UNITED KINGDOM WINNER TCT LIVE FASHION HAIR AWARDS 2022, BEST MALE COLLECTION
Collection: BackUp Hair: Rino Riccio (UK) Hair Assistant: Manifesto team Photography: William Ferchichi Make Up: Yasmine Brown @rinoriccio, @manifesto_ldn 43
Collection:
Rino
Photography: William
Brown
BackUp Hair:
Riccio (UK) Hair Assistant: Manifesto team
Ferchichi Make Up: Yasmine
@rinoriccio, @manifesto_ldn 44
Collection: BackUp Hair: Rino Riccio (UK) Hair Assistant: Manifesto team Photography: William Ferchichi Make Up: Yasmine Brown @rinoriccio, @manifesto_ldn 45
Collection: INTRINSIC/22 Hair, styling, makeup: Rhys Whitehouse (UK)
Photography: Paul Simmons, Happy Jack Photography Models: Gareth Watts, Jaylun Cheng -Williams, Lewys Rees
@r.whitehouse_cuts 46 WHITEHOUSE RHYS UNITED KINGDOM
Collection: INTRINSIC/22 Hair, styling, makeup: Rhys Whitehouse (UK) Photography: Paul Simmons, Happy Jack Photography Models: Gareth Watts, Jaylun Cheng -Williams, Lewys Rees @r.whitehouse_cuts 47
Collection: INTRINSIC/22 Hair, styling, makeup: Rhys Whitehouse (UK)
Photography: Paul Simmons, Happy Jack Photography Models: Gareth Watts, Jaylun Cheng -Williams, Lewys Rees
@r.whitehouse_cuts 48
Hair: Richard Gronas
Alvin de Brabander
(NL) Photography:
@richard_gronas, @vagabond.rotterdam 49 GRONAS RICHARD THE NETHERLANDS
Hair: Richard Gronas
Alvin de Brabander
(NL) Photography:
@richard_gronas, @vagabond.rotterdam 50
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Hair: Richard Gronas (NL)
Photography: Alvin de Brabander @richard_gronas, @vagabond.rotterdam
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Project: STEPANOF barbershop Hair: Nikolai Tsirampidis (GR) Photography: Giorgos Stepanof @nikolaitsirampidhs @stepanof_barbershop 53 TSIRAMPIDIS NIKOLAI GREECE
@the.talents.official @denniskilxx @daniellekilsant 54 Power couple Dennis & Danielle Kil share their story INTERVIEW
THE POWER OF A TEAM
Dennis Kil (50), one of the judges on the BarberSociety Young Talent Battle, started as a hairdresser at his aunt’s men-only barbershop in the centre of Utrecht, the Netherlands. Now, 35 years later, he and his wife Danielle Kil (48) play an important role in the national and international hair and beauty industry. Together, they are committed to inspiring and being of value to everyone who experiences the industry and they publish the.talents magazine. In addition, providing team training is part of their many activities. This edition focuses on the strength of a team. Their team is a well-oiled machine, and through their activities they have a lot of knowledge of the dynamics within a team. “Each member of a team should have their own skills and their own appeal.”
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Dennis, you were a judge at the Young Talent Battle. Do you think it’s important to have a team around you when competing?
“I believe in mentorship and coaching. Without Mr Miyagi, the Karate Kid would never have become a hero, and without a coach, a football team would not play as well. If you want to be the best, you have to practice practice practice. At the BarberSociety Young Talent Battle, I noticed that those had who had received the most training and had the best support from their mentor had the biggest successes.”
Working in a team is more than having a workplace
What is important when working in a team?
“That depends on whether I’m the owner or a barber. If I were the owner and I had to put together a team, I would look for a dynamic that fits together. Specialisation is very important. Take the successful superhero series. Every superhero has their own superpower. Each member of a team should have their own skills and their own appeal. It strengthens your team and makes it more appealing. But it doesn’t necessarily have to be about technical specialities. 10 Years ago, the barber industry mainly
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consisted of teams of men with long beards and tattoos. But isn’t that a little outdated? For example, why not have female barbers on your team?
If I was a barber looking for work, my first question would be, ‘I want to be the best barber. How often do you have training sessions, and how can you help me become the best?’ Make sure to look for a place with teachers who know what they’re doing and are willing to invest time in you. The place where you end up working determines how good you will become.”
Suppose that as an owner, you invest a lot of time in training an employee. How do you ensure that they don’t leave after two years?
“That is indeed the biggest question among trade unions, barbershops and hairdressing salons: how to prevent that. If you don’t have enough practical experience, you won’t be able go it alone. If you do, you’ll be starting a business where the haircuts are below par. They start out as self-employed barbers, think they’re making money and have to be careful not to overspend on their budget. They forget that they have to pay taxes and put money aside for holidays or for when they’re sick. To make sure you retain these employees, you could draw a parallel with investing in a relationship. Factors such as paying attention to people, sincerity, helping each other, offering a shoulder to lean on, giving recognition and appreciation are important here.
It is precisely these factors that make for a strong team. Financial reward is also important. I believe that the trade unions should focus their efforts on raising minimum wages in the broadest sense. A barber is a professional. You have to have put in a lot of hours by the sweat of your brow, you have to have made every effort to be as good as you are and you can put a price tag on that.”
Why is team training important?
“Training is important to me. If you have a diverse team with different skills, you can learn from each other and inspire each other and you could take turns in providing training. This will allow the shop to improve its art across the board, which in turn is appealing to different types of men.”
What do you focus on in a team training session?
“Communication in a barbershop is very important to me. As a hairdresser, your work goes beyond just a quick 15-minute haircut. It’s about showing interest in the person sat in your chair in order to be able to create what suits that person best. The world is individualising to the extent that it is important to look at what will help someone be themselves. I think a client needs a good hair mentor. We also focus on the motivation within a team. We organise weekends in which the team has to collaborate instead of just working together, so that they get to know each other and look after each other in a different way than they would in the salon. You can continue to support this by organising Friday or Saturday afternoon drinks, where the employer sacrifices half an hour (closes earlier) and the employee invests half an hour of their time. It would be great if you could create a kind of ‘fraternisation’ within a team, like commandos, for example. When someone leaves you, it will be for a different reason instead of being underpaid. I think taking care of each other is key. Yeah, I’m not leaving Danielle, hahaha! Working in a team is more than just having a place of work.”
What does your Train the Trainer programme look like?
“At the.talents education programme we focus on education as you have rarely seen in the hairdressing industry. The current education and knowledge transfer within the industry is traditional. The focus is on technique, product and creating
beautiful hair. We have chosen to focus on dialogue with the customer, the ultimate wearer of your work, and the social aspect of hair.” Danielle adds: “Individualism and conveying your identity is important nowadays. As a professional, you have to respond to that. With our education programme, we try to teach hairdressers to look at their customers in a different way. Who’s in your chair? And what information do you need in order to be creative? This means that we challenge you to make your own creations instead of imitating. To what extent are you creative in developing new techniques?”
What other kind of training do you offer?
“As independent educators, we are asked nationally and internationally, both within and outside the industry, to offer training sessions or lectures. Technical workshops, training in presentation skills, motivational training and creative sessions. We do the latter mainly to challenge people to learn to look through the eyes of a child. Unconstrained, open and curious. Everyone tends to act according to their most successful frame of reference. Try to break ties with that in order to take the next step.”
When is a team successful?
“When everyone is satisfied: the owner, the team and the customer. Your team is actually like a train with a locomotive and its wagons driving on the railroad. If just one comes off the rails, the entire train will derail. You’re only a team if you truly work together. When you are there for each other, learn from each other and help each other, you become a team. In general: you create your own identity as a team.”
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BARBERS
58 BOOTS
THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING
The most original and beautiful cowboy boots are produced on Mallorca, Spain. All hand made, with special care for details and materials. From python leather alone there are at least 30 different colors to choose from. The manufactory Tony Mora near the town Alaró belongs to Lorenzo Cardell. He took over the company from his dad, Bartolomé Cardell. He has passed on 50 years of knowledge to him, and Lorenzo followed his fathers’ footsteps into the bootmaking
…
industry. It’s mostly tourists of the middle and high class who come to the factory and stores. Tony Mora is internationally renowned for his handmade cowboy boots. Walking through the production lines you see orders placed from all over the world; from within Europe to USA, Brazil and Japan. Originally, visitors from the USA taught the Mallorcans the secrets of western boots – now the Mallorcans set the benchmark for “Vaqueros”.
Tony Mora attracts his clients by offering tailormade unique boots. Any detail regarding color, shape, material, decoration height – the cut is being produced according to individual wishes and order. The customer gets what he – or she –wants. Even Ralph Lauren and PRADA have both knocked on their door too to design boots. Forty per cent of the boots sold by Tony Mora are custom-made and sent by air-mail to the client´s home address – taking around five weeks from pre-paid order to receipt. The owner says: “The American order from us, not the other way around. They want European elegance. And we are known for our service and quality.”
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LIFESTYLE @tonymoraofficial
“We are the Rolls Royce of all boots. They are made the same way they were produced a hundred years ago, with the same quality of production and care,” explains one of the bootmakers. Most of the bootmakers have been with the company for more than 25 years, and many of the tool and machines are in use for 80 years. The production method justifies the price. Before a skilled worker retires he passes on his knowledge to his successor. Every pair of boots requires 100 handcrafted steps. Modern
leather-cutting machines provide perfectly-fitting puzzle parts.
Each sole is produced according to the Goodyear system, it is the most expensive technique, but the best one too: consisting of a leather sole, a natural layer of cork and an inside layer of finest leather. Even when the exterior stitching becomes worn after many years, the sole maintains stability thanks to the inner stitching.
Another quality feature of Tony Mora is the composition of a separate inner and exterior leather layer, providing a breathable surrounding for the feet. This also has thermal benefits: feet remain cool in midsummer and warm in winter, because the inner leather skin absorbs the body heat. Whoever wears one of his boots forms his own footbed, and after one month of wearing them he or she has a healthy shoe from the inside, and outside it’s typically Tony Mora.
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The stylish design and exotic materials give a touch of machismo: leather from ostrich, python, crocodile, iguana. The inner boot skin, however, is always made of good old calf leather.
The owner concludes: “The policy of this company is service to the client, maximum quality, productivity, professionality. Here, everyone is a master of his work, and every boot is a masterpiece.”
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TONY
MORA LIFESTYLE 62 1 2 3 4
1 Carlo mon washed negro/anaconda negra € 390 2 J Denos pyton marron bc € 420 3 J Denos cyclone cafe/pyton 137 € 320 4 Tedy rock Palermo negro/Serraje Marino € 350 5 TX SV Anaconda marron € 420 6 Tedy Rock Serraprim setter € 300 7 Houston Mexico nubuck graso moka € 300 8 Carlo mon cocodrilo marron € 499 More information www.tonymora.com LIFESTYLE 63 5 6 7 8
SEACREATIVE X DEPOT®
The most iconic waxes from the DEPOT 300 hair styling range are now available in exclusive limited edition packaging in collaboration with visual artist Fabrizio Sarti, in art SEACREATIVE.
NO. 302 CLAY POMADE
Clay/modelling pomade. Build, shape and define hair with a demi-matte effect.
NO. 303 MODELLING WAX
Flexible modelling wax. Water-soluble and non-greasy, it helps to shape the hair with strong and flexible hold.
NO. 312 CHARCOAL PASTE
Strong hold charcoal paste. Gives texture, body and long-lasting hold. Easy to apply due to its creamy and malleable consistency.
More information www.depotmaletools.com
DAPPER DAN BEARD OIL SMALL BATCH
Very skin-friendly beard care of the traditional brand Dapper Dan in cooperation with the Finnish beard and shaving care manufactory Nordic Beards. Leaves the beard well-groomed and beautiful, with a premium scent of camphor wood, neroli and a hint of vanilla. With moisturizing sweet almond and jojoba oil, as well as rejuvenating castor and argan oil. Free of any chemicals.
More information www.pomadeshop.com
GROOMING
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REUZEL TAT™ TATTOO ADVANCED TREATMENTS
Your tattoo isn’t fading, it’s hiding
REUZEL is launching a new productline: TAT™ Tattoo Advanced Treatments:
BUFF – exfoliating wash - is a strong and gentle natural cleanser that rinses away dead and drying cells so that real colors can rise to the surface. Give ink an edge with HYDRABALM –revitalize & replenish. This deeply hydrating balm will firm up the skin and brighten up colors.
VIVID GEL – instant color boostis a hydrating gel that creates a moisture barrier on the skin while quickly enhancing the color of the tattoo and keeps the edges sharp. SHINE - tattoo spray - is a spray that absorbs fast, makes colors pop, and adds definition without leaving the skin greasy.
More information www.reuzel.com
STMNT – a lifestyle brand in professional hair care & styling – respects true craftsmanship and creative skill. Which is why the STMNT Artist Edition sees a special co-lab with respective artist Defer (@deferk2s).
Defers exclusively designed STMNT motif is featured on a limited-edition of the STMNT All-in-One Cleanser (300ml). Your daily ‘clean everything’ cleanser for clean hair, beard, body, face and hands. Lightweight formula with activated charcoal and menthol. Signature scent: fresh citrus and lavender with tonka bean. Standard product also available in 80ml and 750ml.
More information www.stmntgrooming.us
GROOMING
STMNT LIMITED ARTIST EDITION ALL-IN-ONE CLEANSER 65
GAMMA+ X-ERGO CLIPPER
X-Ergo is the professional modular clipper with microchipped magnetic motor for more power. Perfectly balanced modular ergonomic design. Fully adjustable DLC fixed taper blade with DLC shallow cutter can be easily zero gapped. Customizable Click or Freestyle levers, tight or stretch taper length mods and 8 professional magnetic guards.
More information
www.gammapiu.it/en/products/clipper-x-ergo
STAND
New! Comfortable charging stand for WAHL cordless hair clippers
The new high-quality, steady and extraweighted small charging stand from WAHL does not just look great, it also takes up little space and adds more order to the barbershop. All cordless WAHL appliances can easily be placed onto this device and then charged with no fuss. Both the new 5V and the old 4V versions of the WAHL cordless appliance fit in the new charging stand. The stand is of particularly high quality and excels with its modern, compact design. Thanks to its cable rotation function, it is easy to use.
More information
www.wahl-professional.de
IN SHOP
WAHL CORDLESS CHARGING
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BARBER LADY Everybody can learn from each other @tracyladybarbermangan 67
EVERY DAY IS A LEARNING DAY
Tracy Mangan has been in the barbering industry for 24 years. Starting in women’s hairdressing at age 14, she has been focusing on barbering since she moved from Scotland to Leeds at age 21. While she has encountered prejudice as a woman in a male-dominated profession, it has never held her back from pursuing her dreams. She has fortunately seen perceptions change dramatically in recent years, with more and more women entering the barbering profession.
Tracy believes every day is a learning day and has kept developing and expanding her skills throughout her career. Her work has not gone unnoticed and she’s picked up a number of leading awards. As an ambassador for Gamma+, she represents the clipper brand at international events. Tracy works as a freelancer at W2 Barbershop in Leeds (UK), but believes it’s vital to work as part of a team – teamwork is dreamwork. We met up with Tracy Mangan to talk about overcoming prejudice, lifelong learning and giving back to the community.
I trained as a hairdresser in Scotland when I was 14. But I quickly discovered that my passion was in cutting men’s hair. When I moved to Leeds at the age of 21, I decided to concentrate solely on barbering. I’ve been barbering for the last 24 years.”
Growing skills over three decades
Tracy Mangan has been in the hairdressing industry for three decades. She took the unconventional step of becoming a men’s barber 24 years ago. At the time, it was uncommon to see women working in the barbering industry. How did her journey in the industry begin? Tracy explains: “My journey began in hairdressing.
She says that she has continued to grow, develop and expand her skills throughout her career. When fades took the world by storm, she wanted to keep up with the times and took extra training to hone her skills as a barber. “Around eight years ago, when the fading came in, I completed extra training. Since then I’ve seen my passion grow. I got really into my barbering and started pushing myself and entering competitions,” she says.
Her recharged passion for the profession has not gone unnoticed. In recent years, Tracy has picked up a string of awards including Yorkshire’s best barber in 2020, 2021 and 2022. She also won the title of Afro Barber of the Month
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with Barbercomp, which is an important recognition because Tracy wants to specialise and grow her skills in this area of barbering.
Moving to the front of the shop
Has Tracy come across any prejudice as a woman in the barbering industry? “There was a lot of prejudice when I was younger. If clients were given a choice in the shop, they would choose a male barber,” she
recalls. She has, however, seen a wind of positive change sweeping through the industry.
“Over the last four of five years, I’ve seen perceptions change massively, there are many more skilled female barbers around. The image has changed as well, and you see a lot more females wanting to get into the industry.”
When asked if she has any tips for other women barbers, she says being visible and letting potential
clients see you at work is beneficial. “I’ve found working in the front of the shop helps, so when clients are waiting in the queue, they can see you working. When they watch you working, they’re more inclined to sit in your chair.” She says being a female barber also has its advantages, “Some men prefer a lady, because they’re more attentive and precise.” Tracy is convinced that it’s good to have a mixed team at barbershops. “I think it’s good to
When they watch you working, they’re more inclined to sit in your chair
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have a mix. I’ve worked in an all-male barbershop, and I’ve worked in a mixed barbershop. And I think it’s better to have a mixed team.”
Teamwork is dreamwork
Tracy believes it is crucially important to work as part of a team, even if you’re a freelancer. She says it’s just a fact that you grow and achieve more together than alone. Tracy explains: “I believe teamwork makes the dreamwork. It’s so important to work as a part of a team. It helps the shop run smoothly and adds to the atmosphere of the shop.”
She says there is a brilliant team at the W2 Barbershop in Leeds where she works as a freelancer. “We’ve got a great team. We regularly have team meetings
where we bounce ideas off each other. As a team, we also organise trade skills nights where each of the barbers will hold a night where they share their specific tips and skills. This reflects our firm belief that everybody can learn from each other.”
Is it tough to feel like part of the team when you’re a freelancer? “Even though I’m freelance, I really feel like I’m part of the team. It’s very important as a freelancer to get involved in the shop’s activities, so you really do feel you are part of the team. At W2 Barbershop, we volunteer once a month for Andy’s Man Club – a men’s mental health charity. We offer haircuts and beard trims, with all the money we raise going to charity. I am actively involved in this activity. I think it’s
important and makes me feel like a part of the shop. It’s also nice giving back to the community.”
Tracy says the work she does for social media and barbering competitions is also the result of collaboration. “For example, I work closely with the team at Conrad Anderson Photography for my images. So that too is a team effort.”
Inspiring ambition
Tracy also gives back to the community by serving as an inspirational speaker at local colleges. “I’ve been going around to a few colleges in the Yorkshire area where I’ve given motivational speeches and demonstrations. I talk about my career, how I started as a hairdresser, about my profession
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and the things I’ve done. At age 45, I still have a lot of dreams! It’s quite good to go into colleges and tell what I’ve achieved and explain that I’ve still got a lot more to do. It’s been good to share my experiences. It definitely helps a lot with the female students and older students – it shows them they can still do a lot with their lives.”
Taking centre stage as a Gamma+ ambassador
As an ambassador of Gamma+, Tracy has the opportunity to promote a product she really loves and share her skill and experience with a wider audience. Tracy tells how she became acquainted with Gamma+ clippers: “I was looking for a new clipper because I had the onset of carpal tunnel. That’s when I found the Gamma+ clipper. They make an ergo clipper that is ergonomically shaped for your hand. So I bought one and discovered in practice that it’s tailored to fit in your hand without causing strain to wrists, elbows and shoulders. It was unbelievable! The pain subsided completely – an amazing product!”
How did she end up becoming an ambassador for Gamma+?
“I was really lucky to become an ambassador from using the products. I was using the products and tagging on Instagram, so they noticed my work, and I’ve been an ambassador for the past two years. So I’ve got the opportunity to try out and showcase all the new Gamma+ products. I also represented Gamma+ at Barber Connect UK this year. I worked at their stand at the event. I was able to showcase the Gamma+ tools and demonstrate my fade haircuts. It was a really great experience.”
Being a mother and a barber
Tracy has successfully combined being a single mother and a fulltime barber. It hasn’t always been easy: “I’m a single mum and I’ve brought my kids up for the last 13 years on my own. It was
challenging when they were young, because at a barbershop you have to work on Saturdays. Now that my children are older and I’m working freelance, I have more flexibility.”
She is proud of her three children: Aaliyah (age 19), Tyshaun (age 16) and Gervais (age 13). Her children are equally proud of her and her accomplishments. When asked which award she is most proud of, Tracy says without hesitation: “Definitely Yorkshire’s Best Barber 2021 because my daughter Aaliyah attended the event with me. We’d just come out of lockdown and the awards ceremony was held in London. It was incredible when I won, and my name appeared on screen. It was priceless to see my daughter being so proud of me. My first competitions were during lockdown, and everything was online. So it was wonderful to win that one and accept the award at a live ceremony.”
Competitions as springboard for growth
Tracy thinks taking part in competitions is a great way to raise your visibility and to develop your skills. “I think it’s really good to participate in competitions. It gets your name out there. People know who you are,
and it also boosts your confidence and your passion. It can definitely open new opportunities for you.
I gained new clients from getting my article in the newspaper and I started to get noticed by brands.”
She continues, “It also helps to develop my skills and enhance my passion. I keep learning and always looking for new ways to master my craft. Doing the competitions and especially the social media, it keeps your hands in it and it really inspires you. It’s about being the best that you can be.”
Looking to the future
What does the future hold for Tracy? “I’m going to continue to do my motivational speeches and demonstrations because that’s something I really enjoy. I’m also currently studying to be a barbering educator. I want to get into teaching. I’d love to do more stage work and get myself to more conventions. My longterm goal is to have my own shop and training academy.”
Her advice to colleagues making their way in the world of barbering is to keep growing and never give up. “Just go for it, try hard, work hard and every day is a learning day.”
I’m always looking for new ways to master my craft
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BARBERS & THE CITY
We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting one of South Africa’s three capital cities. Check out Cape Town’s amazing barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting this great city.
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BARBERS & THE CITY
Mr Cobbs the Barber
Victoria & Alfred Waterfront Shop 278, upper level
19 Dock Rd. Cape Town, 8001
+27 83 73 444 76
+27 21 418 24 27
@mrcobbsbarber
www.englishshavingshop.com
Mr Cobbs the Barber is a hidden gem in the V&A Waterfront shopping centre. The Victorian styled barbershop focuses on men’s grooming the way it was done yesterday. Mr Cobbs, a wellrespected perfumer, opened his first barbershop in Victorian London in 1855. Johan Labotske & Vandah Lansdowne and their team continue that marvelous tradition today. Their services include gentlemen’s haircuts and Victorian hot towel shaves for the discerning gentleman. Both generally takes an hour, so you
only leave the store with the highest quality service and feeling like you had the best pamper.
There is an extensive range of products for sale. They manufacture brushes, colognes and accessories and they also sell covetable antique shaving paraphernalia sourced from around the world. Products are mostly handmade and perfumes and shaving soaps are unmatched. They also sell croc and ostrich leather goods that attract the odd leather lover.
Their store interior is one of the most photographed in the city. It allows people to step back in time with its genuine antique barber chairs and black and white tiled floor with an array of gorgeous Victorian trimmings. Go visit this amazing barbershop when you have a chance!
OUR HOTSPOTS
Gibsons
V&A Waterfront Shop 157, lower level Cape Town +27 87 357 3465
@gibsons_capetown
www.gibsonsburgers.co.za
Gibsons is an amazing burger restaurant in the V & A Waterfront with mouth-watering burgers that can’t be competed with. Staff is amazing and friendly and service is unmatched.
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Tashas
V&A Waterfront Shop 7117 Cape Town +27 21 421 4350 @tashascafe www.tashascafe.com
Tashas is another gem in the V & A Waterfront that we enjoy our breakfasts at. The setting is beautiful, it gives you a boutique café experience, with an atmosphere that is urban, comfortable and easygoing. The Spanish-signature food is beautifully presented and the service of the highest quality. Worth every penny.
Mitchell’s Ferrymans Tavern
V & A Waterfront Locomotive Shed, Dock Rd, Foreshore
Cape Town, 8001 +27 21 419 7748 @ferrymanstavern www.ferrymans.co.za
Our favorite bar is the one and only Mitchell’s Ferrymans tavern in the V & A Waterfront. With a big selection of craft beers to lift up the moods. Always the best spirit and loud laughs. Service is amazing and it’s always just a big bunch of fun.
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BARBERS & THE CITY
Hermanos Barbershop
Two branches:
174 Loop Street Cape Town City Centre Cape Town, 8001 +27 21 422 1294
65 Main Road
Green Point Cape Town, 8005 +27 21 433 4081
@hermanos_barbers
www.hermanos.co.za
Hermanos is offering premium barbershop services in a space that is both purposefully designed and visually attractive. It celebrates men and authenticity; where a man can relax while the volume of the outside world subsides temporarily.
Their services are centered around three main categories of men’s grooming; offering them a wide range of options including
contemporary haircuts, full hot-towel razor shaves and beard work and face treatments. The best coffee and top quality Cuban and Dominican Republic cigars are an integral part of their service offering. The Loop Street branch serves and sells even premium whiskeys, gin, craft beer. Furthermore, Hermanos stocks a wide range of top quality hair care and shaving retail products.
OUR HOTSPOTS
Three Wise Monkeys
La Rhone Building
77 Regent Rd
Sea Point
Cape Town, 8060 +27 21 433 1837
@threewisemonkeys_za www.threewisemonkeys.co.za
It’s intimate, great service, and it’s the best ramen you’ll ever have!
House of Machines
84 Shortmarket Street
Cape Town City Centre Cape Town, 8000 +27 21 426 1400
@thehouseofmachines_cpt www.thehouseofmachines.com
This bar is our favourite. Live music every night, always free entrance, Best Old Fashioned in town.
Hermanos Barbershop
Without sounding biased, Hermanos is our favourite men’s shop! It is a space specifically designed just for men. From cigars, whiskey, shaving products, phenomenal barbers and great vibes, it’s the perfect place for a man!
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BARBERS & THE CITY
Barnet Fair
St. Stephens Building
98 Bree Street
Cape Town City Centre Cape Town, 8001
+27 67 172 7543
@barnetfairbarber_cpt www.barnetfair.co.za
Owner Farren Greening says: “When Barnet Fair started in 2010 there was a massive gap in the industry for a quality barber shop. Of course, there were salons but there wasn’t a space that catered exclusive to men. The opportunity was there, and we haven’t looked back since!
We offer great quality haircuts and our clients love the relaxed but professional environment. Our staff is passionate about their craft which shows in their work. The relationships we form with our clients is unique, we are not a chop shop that rushes our clients,
we like to create a space that feels like a place to hang out. Barber shops is a growing industry and each shop has its own feel and vibe to it. So, it’s worth stopping by and checking out even if you aren’t getting a haircut.”
OUR HOTSPOTS
Fat Harry’s
166 2nd Avenue, Kenilworth
Cape Town, 7708
+27 21 879 2351
@fatharrys.reloaded www.fatharrys.co.za
Fat Harry’s always has a great vibe and atmosphere. Whether we order burgers or steak or pizza or tapa’s, the food has been consistently great no matter what and the waiters are always friendly and helpful. The space feels inviting with a massive fireplace to keep you warm in
winter and a great little stage for live music to entertain you in the evenings.
House of Machines
84 Shortmarket Street Cape Town City Centre Cape Town, 8000 +27 21 426 1400
@thehouseofmachines_cpt www.thehouseofmachines.com
The ultimate day to night
motorcycle themed bar and restaurant. You can start your day with great coffee and breakfast and then finish off your day with a drink and live music. The bartenders are friendly and helpful. It’s a unique spot that satisfies every whim.
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V
Shop 272-273
Blvd Cape Town, 8002
Fabiani is the best store for men’s clothes. I have bought several suits and pants from them and the fit is always perfect and the quality as great as everything lasts and keeps its shape.
Fabiani
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& A Waterfront
Breakwater
@ fabianicollection www.fabiani.co.za
ANYTHING BUT FISHING
Heart-warming tale of Herramenn in Iceland
Andri Tyr Kristleifsson cut his first head of hair when he was 13. Even though he had interests in other areas, he still rolled into the barbering trade just like his father and grandfather. Today he stands at the helm of the iconic Herramenn barbershop that has been an institution in Iceland for over 60 years. It all started with his grandfather who didn’t want to go into the fishing trade and left his small
Icelandic town in search of a new life and career in the city. By chance he got a barbering apprenticeship, and the rest is history. It’s a story of passing down skills from generation to generation, rediscovering the passion for the trade and treating the team like family. We met up virtually with Andri to hear the tale of his family’s long tradition in barbering, which may carry on to a fourth generation.
Images: © Sigurður Ólafur Sigurðsson
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It’s equally exciting as how my grandfather started
Anything but fishing
The story of Herramenn, which means gentlemen in Icelandic, started with Andri’s grandfather Torfi Guðbjörnsson. Growing up in an isolated Icelandic village where everything revolves around fishing and sailing, he discovered as a young man that a life on the sea just wasn’t for him. So he set his sights on moving to the city and pursuing a career in anything but fishing. Andri explains: “It all started with my grandfather. He lived in the North of the country in a fishermen’s town. One day he went sailing and fishing with his brother when he was 13 or 14 and discovered that it wasn’t the life for him. So he moved to Reykjavik and said to himself he was going to learn the first trade in which somebody would take him on as an apprentice. So he walked into a barbershop and asked the barber master there if they had a place for an apprenticeship and they said yes.” Andri says with a chuckle: “So if he’d met a carpenter, he would probably
have become a carpenter. He moved to the city because there was nothing else to do in his hometown apart from fishing. That wasn’t for him, so he took the leap and moved to Reykjavík.”
Reykjavik as a barbering boom town
It wasn’t a long shot that Andri’s grandfather ended up knocking on a barbershop door for an apprenticeship. This is because there were a lot of barbershop doors to knock on in the Icelandic capital in the early 20th century. Andri: “There would have been quite a few barbershops in Reykjavik at the time. The barbering industry as a trade came to Iceland in around 1900 and my grandfather started learning in 1948. The master barber who took him on as an apprentice was a third-generation barber stemming from the first barber in Iceland. I think there went on to be five or six generations of barbers in that family.”
Like father, like son
There are striking similarities between how Andri’s grandfather and his father got into the barbering business. His father Gauti Torfason also didn’t have his heart set on becoming a barber, but more or less lucked into the profession. So how did Andri’s father end up in barbering? Andri tells the story with a touch of dry humour: “Yeah, it’s equally exciting as how my grandfather started. My father used to be a taxi driver. One of the taxi stands was outside the hairdressing school here in Reykjavik. So one day he was there, and he thought: I don’t want to be a taxi driver anymore – I want to learn something. So he walked into the school and said I’m applying. And that’s how it started – he went to his father and said I’m going to become a barber. That was in 1978.”
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@herramennrakarastofa
Keeping it in the family
The three generations of the Kristleifsson barbering family have always worked together at the same barbershop. Andri: “We’re still running my grandfather’s shop. My grandfather and father worked together from 1978 to 2004, when my grandfather passed away. Our barbershop had been at the same location for 60 years. About five years ago, having at the time already taken on new staff members and two apprentices, we decided it was time to move to a new location. We needed a new and more spacious location. The old place was about 40 square metres – we had three chairs and it was tight. So we moved to the next street and tripled in size. Our new barbershop is about 150 square metres with five chairs and ample space for everybody. The house that accommodated our barbershop was also my grandfather’s home. So it was basically our family home for over 50 years.”
Serving clients from across the island
Herramenn doesn’t just serve clients living in Reykjavik. The clients come from across Iceland. Andri says they come to the shop to relax, get a great haircut and enjoy good old-fashioned conversation: “We service the whole country. We have people who live far away but work in Reykjavik at least once a month. So I have people from 500 kilometres away, who just get their haircuts here when they’re in the city. There was one of our clients who couldn’t have been further away from us. He was a priest – he suddenly passed away a few years ago - in a remote village in Northeastern Iceland with a population of about sixty. He was our client for almost his whole life.”
Discovering it’s the profession for me
What made Andri decide to become a barber? Was it a lifelong dream? “Well, to be honest, I didn’t want to do it at first. I was interested in computer science and the hospitality industry. But we have a complete three-year
hairdressing educational programme here in Iceland. And it was easy to get be accepted to the hairdressing college, so I just decided to go for it. The course wasn’t split between men’s and women’s hairdressing, and it wasn’t until the last year that I decided I wanted to focus exclusively on barbering. I didn’t like the women’s part with the hair colouring and such. So it wasn’t until I discovered I only liked to cut men’s hair that I found out it was definitely something for me.”
The best and worst of barbering Deciding to carry on the family business and pursuing a career as a barber turned out to be a good move. “I’m now 35 and I’ve been working in barbering since 2003. What I love most about working as a barber is the people.
I appreciate the trust clients place in me and my advice. I get to do what I do best, and he walks out happy.” What’s his least favourite part of the profession?
“The difficult thing is that you have to be happy all the time even when you’re not.”
The team of Herramenn Rakarastofa
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A new generation of barbering
When asked about how the barbering industry has changed over the last three generations, Andri says the main change is that there is now more room for creativity and professional development. “With my team, we’re doing more education, following more trends and developing our personal and professional skills. My grandfather was an old-school barber – it was just a job to him, it paid the bills and put food on the table. But now it’s more of an art.”
Practice makes perfect
Andri says he is grateful to have been able to work with his grandfather for a year. During that year, his grandfather passed down the skills he had learned in practice over decades. Andri speaks about his grandfather with respect and admiration: “The US Army was based here for many years and my grandfather worked for them as a barber for eight or nine years. And he did just one haircut – a flattop - for all those years. The guys at Schorem in Rotterdam do it superbly – it’s fantastic to watch them do the flattop. But my grandfather could do a flattop so fast that it was amazing. Even though he hadn’t
done it regularly for three decades, it was in his muscle memory to do a flattop. He didn’t use a comb; he would just use his fingers and slide the clipper on top of the hair and it was flat. It’s difficult to do – but if you do the same cut over and over again for nine years you get the hang of it.”
Andri continues: “That’s why I was so fascinated by my grandfather. I worked with him for one year – my first year at the barbershop. He showed me a lot during that year. For one example, he did a straight razor shave that he hadn’t done for many years. But the practice and his education were just in his hands. It was incredible. He was trembling a bit with the razor, but when he put it on the face, he was completely steady and shaved it perfectly. I realised – he’s good at this and I too need to learn by practice. I’m really grateful and lucky that I had that year with him.”
Teamwork in focus
Andri sees teamwork as the key to success, happiness and a sustainable business. “I have an amazing team. Shortly after I took over the day-to-day business about ten years ago, I hired the first barber from outside the
family. Since then it’s grown into one of the biggest barbershops in Iceland. I’ve always focused on teamwork. Even though I’ve been here the longest, we all work together and ask each other questions and advice. Teamwork is a big part of our work here. We do a lot of teambuilding that isn’t hair related. We do attend big shows abroad at least once a year, but we also like to do a lot of training here. And to keep the morale up we go out for activities. We also do team photoshoots –like the one on our website – it has nothing to do with hair, but the photos tell a story.”
The team has grown through the years and each member has an important role to play. “Currently we have five barbers working full time. My father is still here, but he mainly drinks coffee, talks to people, and tells stories. I think that’s an important job in a barbershop,” Andri says.
The future is waiting in the wings Andri has two daughters: Yrja Björk (age six) and Barney Viðja (age six months). He wants his children to be free to choose any profession they like. But just the other day Yrja said something that might give us a glimpse into the future. “I was not encouraged to do this; it was my own decision. I will not push them to go into barbering, but if they want to do it, I will definitely teach them. Funnily, just yesterday my eldest daughter said she wanted to work in the barbershop when she was older. She is six years old – so she still has seven years to reach what I did – I was 13 when I did my first haircut with my grandfather. It would also be great to get a woman from the family go into the business, because so far, it’s only been men.”
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