BarberSociety magazine international Winter 2021/2022 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

GET MIXING! BARBERS & COCKTAILS

WINTER 2021 | #10 | € 12,50

INTERVIEW WITH FORMER TOTTENHAM GOALKEEPER MICHEL VORM AND MAESON BENNETT YOU’RE ONLY AS STRONG AS YOUR WEAKEST LINK

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

AN OLD-SCHOOL BARBER IN HIGH-TECH SOUTH KOREA MAKE EACH DAY FUN, MEANINGFUL AND FULL OF LAUGHS

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Hair: Jesús Vázquez (ES) Photography: Óscar Rellán @peluqueriajvazquez_

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EDITORIAL A LIFELONG PASSION FOR BARBERING Interview with Alan Beak LIVING THE DREAM IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE Q&A with Geoffrey Kvot SHAVING SPECIAL Tips and tricks on shaving from Jeroen Jansen TRENDS Gema Moreno, Pelsynera, Jesús Vázquez, By Jelle, Shaun Buckingham, Fran Aranda, Albion Barbers, Ayoze Medina, Paco López PRODUCT NEWS Grooming, In-Shop, Lifestyle BLACK RAVEN, A NEW PRODUCT RANGE Interview with Ronald de Bont AN OLD-SCHOOL BARBER IN HIGH-TECH SOUTH KOREA Q&A with Kim Seung-rae BARBERS & THE CIT Y Bucharest BARBER BABE Interview with Ming Ho BARBERS & COCKTAILS Get mixing! COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER The art of shaving + free online shaving course FOOTBALL AND BARBERING – A GREAT MATCH Interview with former goalkeeper Michel Vorm and Maeson Bennett

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Writers Steven Walker Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

LOVE FOR THE PROFESSION I’ve discovered over the years that shaving really is an art. You can only learn how to do it well by putting in a lot of practice. Studying how hair grows and using the right utensils and products are so important when it comes to shaving. I was taught how to shave by my father, who in turn learned from his father, my grandfather. In our shop, we apply a traditional barber’s treatment before shaving. We first soak the skin using wet cloths and then remove each and every hair – Italian style. Highly recommended if you want to look great or just totally unwind for an hour. I always think it’s a unique ritual and I can see my clients relax and unwind while I’m giving them the shaving treatment. There’s something soothing about it. But the act of shaving itself can be tricky. No-one wants to make their customer bleed! Of course, that’s happened to me in the past.

EDITORIAL Jeroen Jansen of Shavingpoint has a story to share on this too. As a barber, trainer and distributor in shaving and skincare products, he’s the go-to guy for tips and tricks on shaving. You can read his advice for the perfect shave in this issue: from preventing skin irritation, in-grown hairs and inflammation to choosing the right products and tools and more. Don’t miss it. Also read what Chris Foster and other barbers we interviewed have to say about the art of shaving. This winter edition of BarberSociety Magazine is one you’ll want to save as a reference guide! Positivity In this edition we present the stories of a diverse group of barbers from Europe and Asia. What’s remarkable is the incredible positivity and love for the profession that comes through in every story! Barbers aren’t easily beaten. Despite these difficult circumstances, they’re still standing strong and have even been inspired over the pandemic. English barber

Alan Beak came up with a proposal for Wahl UK during lockdown, since becoming Creative Director. We’re sure to see and hear more from him in this exciting new role. Dutch barber Ronald de Bont has launched his own product line: Black Raven. We talk to him about it and his entrepreneurial spirit, which comes with its ups and downs.

Last but not least, South Korean barber Kim Seung-Rae is working hard to promote the barber culture there and calls on barbers to love what they do every day. What an exciting way to take us into 2022! Wishing you a creative, inspiring and successful new year, filled with new challenges and opportunities!

Former Tottenham Hotspur goalkeeper Michel Vorm has developed a barbershop concept with barber Maeson Bennett where sport and style go hand in hand. French barber Geoffrey Kvott hasn’t let the pandemic stop him from achieving his dream of creating a franchise chain, nor has Ming Ho, whose barbershops only continue to expand in Hong Kong. A number of barbers in Romania also have expansion plans. Read about their plans and all the Bucharest hotspots in Barbers & the City section that has been created in association with our BarberSociety community member Robert Andrei.

Rock on!

Marc van de Hare

BarberSociety Founder Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers P.S. During this festive season, be sure to check out Zuidam Distillers’ first-rate traditionally crafted spirits. You can also use them to make great cocktails. Find out more on page 82. Cheers to the New Year!

INTERV IEW

A LIFELONG PASSION FOR BARBERING

Alan Beak (36) has had a passion for barbering since childhood. His journey in barbering began with a part-time job at a barbershop when he was just 12 years old. He has gone on to make a name for himself in the world of barbering. Today he stands at the helm of the successful Ruger barbershops in the UK. His line of Ruger men’s grooming and lifestyle products is sold through retail outlets around the world. His recent appointment as Creative Director of Wahl gives him the opportunity to expand his creative horizons and put his knowledge and experience to work for this leading clipper brand. While he wears different hats in these roles, his first love is and always be working as a barber. He says it’s what he loves doing most. We met up with Alan virtually to find out more about his amazing adventures in barbering. 6

@alan_beak

INTERVIEW ALAN BEAK

Starting from rock bottom Alan started working at a barbershop while he was still a kid. He took to it like a fish to water and fell in love with the craft, atmosphere and comradery. He explains: “I started working at a barbershop when I was 12. So I started from rock bottom. But there’s no better place to start off than at the bottom of the pecking order. I was given a big responsibility at such a young age, and I took it head-on. I loved it and thrived on it. My job was to host clients in, get them a coffee, wash their hair, look after them and see to their every need.”

Learning the ropes Alan learned the ropes at this barbershop in Oldham in Manchester. This on-the-job training gave him a firm foundation in barbering that still serves him well. Alan looks back fondly on his time working at the barbershop. “It was one of the very first progressive barbershops that wasn’t a traditional barbershop, it was a men’s hairdressers. They weren’t one-dimensional, but multidimensional with a diverse skill set. They were traditionally trained by Italian barbers, so their style of barbering was an amalgamation of women’s

My objective is to give Wahl a new edge and fresh feel At home in a barbershop Not all boys like going to the barbershop, but Alan looked forward to going and wanted to stay as long as he could. “I loved the barbershop environment and having my hair cut. Whenever we went, we’d always make sure that we stayed. We’d always get there early. I used to wish for a queue. If I got to the barbershop and nobody was there, I would be gutted. Because I wanted it to be busy, so I could take in the smell and the noise. I liked everything about a barbershop. Sometimes I would ask if I could sweep up and the guys liked me because I would always help out. In the end, I asked for a job, and they snapped me up. I asked them on a Thursday, and I started on Saturday.”

hairdressing and classic Italian barbering, which was fantastic for my foundation and fundamentals. I did that for seven years – from the age of 12 to 19 on Fridays and Saturdays. The guys I worked for were fantastic, they taught me so much about the industry and about life. But when I was 19, I felt I needed to fly the nest. I became the general manager of a large bar and restaurant at the age of 20. When I turned 21, I thought: I’ve had my fun, now it’s time to start a career and learn a craft.” He went to barbering college and breezed through it thanks to everything he had learned as a teenager. He will never forget his first official working day as a

barber. “My very first day I thought: I’m going to do my very first haircut on my first day. I did and it was terrible. But that’s how we all start. I love the saying: You don’t have to be great to start something, but you do have to start something to be great.” Selfless and selfish Alan pursued a career in barbering because he loved the feeling of getting a haircut and wanted to give other people that enjoyment: “I loved the feeling of having a haircut and I wanted to be the person responsible for making other people feel that way. I’ve never been externally driven by things like money, adulation, fame or followers. I just like the look on people’s faces when they get up out of the chair and look at themselves and are happy with what they see. That’s what fills me with pleasure, that’s what I get from it. So it’s quite selfless, but it’s also quite selfish because it’s what pleases me.” Taking the leap to open Ruger Alan Beak co-founded Ruger Barbers with his brother Reece seven years ago. The business has grown at a whirlwind pace. They now have three shops and sixteen members of staff. Alan tells us about how Ruger came about: “I ended up teaching my younger brother Reece in the barbershop where we were working. We worked well together, and at a certain point we said: We are so busy just between us, it’s time for us to open our own shop. We toyed with the idea for a year or two and then decided it was time for us to take the leap.” They have stayed true to the core values and vision of Ruger, and this has put them on a fast track to success. “We opened Ruger’s 7

exactly seven years ago and we run it exactly the way we’ve always wanted to run a shop. So when you come in, you are treated like you are walking into our home; you get to have a coffee and you’re greeted well. We encourage conversation and encourage everyone to be one. We have a shop in Oldham and on Dean’s Gate in central Manchester. We also have a shop in Lytham, which is a lovely seaside town. All together we have twelve barbers and four back-office staff.”

Hair: Alan Beak Art director: Mario Vaz Photography: Phil Splaine Model: Reuben banks Video: Dan eagle

An inspiring proposal During lockdown, Alan thought it was important to stay in contact with Wahl and to keep using and promoting their products. “When we went into lockdown, I kept using the products, promoting the brand and maintaining a good relationship with the team and the Global Artistic Director

Check the video

The role of Creative Director of Wahl Alan was recently appointed Creative Director of Wahl. He has had a relationship with the brand for years and has remained loyal to it throughout his career. He sees it as a great opportunity to give the brand a new edge and a fresh feel. Alan explains how the collaboration came about: “I started working with Wahl about five or six years ago. Over time our relationship grew. I performed for them on stage, and we had a great collaboration. I don’t use Wahl because I’m paid to use Wahl. I would use them no matter what. I’ve always preferred Wahl. They are my go-to clippers – always have been, always will be. They’ve always ticked every single box for me, and I love working with the product.”

“We’ve not had the most positive past few years and I just wanted to inspire younger people. There are a lot of young people wanting to get into barbering, and I want to inspire them and show what is possible if you work hard and are patient and persistent with your relationships and stay loyal to brands. So that’s why I’ve been given this role. My key objective was to give Wahl this new edge and create marketing that has a very current and fresh feel to it.” Tapping into creativity In his role as Wahl Creative Director, Alan will put his creativity to work to both build the Wahl brand and recognition for barbers. “I’ll be doing photographic campaigns, video tutorials and stage work. The key aspect of the role is education. We are in this industry to help it evolve and to make sure it gets the recognition it deserves. We want people to realise that we are skilled tradespeople who invest time and money in growing and evolving our profession. People often seen barbers as a side-street business, while it’s actually a very skilled profession.” Happiest behind the chair Does this new role mean Alan will give up working as a barber? “No, I still work 40 hours a week at the barbershop. I’m just good at my time management. I’ll cut hair for as long as I can. The paradox is that I earn less money cutting hair than I do doing anything else. If I stopped cutting hair, I’d probably be a richer man, but I’m a happier man earning less money and being behind the chair.”

G IN

TIPS

1. Tip number one is preparation, which is absolutely everything. You must ensure the skin is soft, wet and warm. 2. Secondly, your consultation with your client must be immaculate. You must see every single hair growth pattern. It’s a very intimate process, so you can’t be shy when examining your client’s face. 3. Thirdly, always shave on tight skin, so pinch and pull the skin and be as intimate and forceful as you need to get the skin into the position you need so you can shave it as closely as possible.

AL A N’ S

Simon Shaw. I decided to send him a proposal because I wanted to see the company grow and evolve. My proposal was to do some new social media content and marketing, things like photo shoots, tutorials, some education. Something that was really uplifting and would disrupt what is going on currently on social media.”

In the becoming, not the being Alan believes in moving from goal to goal rather than focusing on a long-term plan: “I’m a shortsighted person, as I’m always very realistic. I’ve learned over the past few years that the enjoyment is in the becoming, not the being. So I have monthly, or yearly goals. Once I reach a goal, I set a new one right away. In five years’ time, I want to still be cutting hair, be financially stable and create opportunities for other people. I want the team to grow because I know we create enrichment; we create an environment that people enjoy being in and that’s the end all and be all.”

Words of encouragement Alan takes the opportunity to share some words of encouragement with the barbering community: “Always remember that there are a lot of nice people still left in the world. Many people are still quite shaken by the past two years. But always look at the positives in life - we are still here; a lot of people still have a house and can afford food. Networking is one of the best things you can do right now. Don’t use social media to compare yourself to anyone else, use it to network and speak with other people.”

He has ambitious plans to go international with Ruger. “The next goal is to open a shop somewhere in Europe – the Netherlands, Germany, Spain or even Greece or Moscow. I’d like to open a store internationally. Our mission statement is to become a globally recognised brand that is recognised for its sustainable growth for ourselves and others.” 9

INTERV IEW

interview

LIVING THE DREAM IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

Photography © @slk.video (Sabir El Khamlichi)

@geoffreykvot @le_clangeoffrey

Q&A WITH GEOFFREY KVOT Le Clan Geoffrey barbershops are very well-known in the South of France. French barber Geoffrey Kvot stands at the helm of this successful company. He inherited a passion for the barbering profession from his parents. Geoffrey’s outstanding barbering skills have none gone unrecognised – he came in fourth in the International Barber Awards and won third prize in the cleanest fade category of the BarberSociety Battle. So it’s with good reason that he’s been asked to serve as the French ambassador for 1922 by J.M. Keune’s men’s collection to provide training sessions throughout the country. Geoffrey also has big plans as an entrepreneur. In addition to his academy and three barbershops, he also plans to set up a franchise operation. It’s about time to find out more about this ambitious barber.

Where did you grow up and go to school, what were you like as a child?

I grew up in Sète in the South of France. This is actually where I opened my first barbershop. I also went to school there until I was 14 years. I’d describe myself as a child as being dreamy, shy and passionate. My first real passion was football.

How did you get into the barbering business?

My parents have a mixed hair salon in Sète, so when I stopped school at the age of 14, I started working there to help them. That was my first step into the hairdressing world. At first, I wasn’t really interested in it, but one day my mother took me with her to a training course and that’s when I discovered that I have a real passion for the craft. So I knew then: I wanted to become a barber!

What attracted you to the profession?

I was attracted to everything about the world of barbering - the vibe, the interaction and the relationship you have with clients. I felt that the craft was very undervalued. I knew then that our profession was on the threshold of something great.

Did you go to barbering college?

No, I didn’t go to a barbering college. I attended a hairdressing college, where I gained my diplomas. But hardly any attention was paid to men’s hairstyles and beard shaving certainly wasn’t part of the curriculum.

You now have three barbershops in the South of France. When did you open your first barbershop and what made you decide to expand into a chain of multiple barbershops? I opened my first barbershop in 2010 at the age of 20. We then went on to open the other shops over the past five years. This success is thanks to the great teamwork between my wife Marie Letheux and myself. She handles the business and development side of the business and I take care of the artistic side. We are actually working on a franchise that we hope to launch very soon. So this is just the beginning for Le Clan Geoffrey!

You will be opening two new barbershops in a few months. It’s a bold move during a pandemic – why do you think now is a good time to expand?

It has been such a difficult time for all barbershop owners. Fortunately, our company strategy was clear before the health crisis. As a result, the pandemic did not have a huge impact on us, and it didn’t have a very negative effect on our development plan. The two lockdowns we went through obviously slowed our expansion project down, but we’ve emerged stronger than ever!

What do you like most about the barbering profession?

What I like most about the barbering profession is the creativity. For me, it’s all about the cut, technical aspects, hair coloration and designs and the contact with clients. I also really enjoy interacting with other barbers during training sessions. Most of all, I love the fact that as barbers we are eternal apprentices and embark on a lifelong journey of learning!

As barbers we’re on a lifelong journey of learning!

You’re well known for your fades. What is your secret to the perfect fade?

My secret to the perfect fade? First, you have to make a proper assessment of your client’s hair. You can’t work the same way on thick hair as on fine hair. So you must be very wellorganised and work step by step by starting with the bases and creating an area at 0mm, 2mm, etcetera. And my real secret is that I work with my clipper upside down, which helps me to fade my fade lines on really close areas.

With three barbershops and another two in the pipeline, do you still work daily as a barber or do you focus more on the business side of the operation? I’m lucky to work with my wife Marie who handles the business side of the company. This gives me the opportunity to keep working daily as a barber and to provide training courses across France.

What are you passionate about besides barbering?

I’m a very passionate person and I love a lot of things. But my top-4 are: fashion, travelling, tattoos and football!

What three items are always in your fridge?

Where do you see yourself five years from now? Five years from now, I see myself pursuing new ambitions, running our franchise and further developing our concept in other countries!

Oh that’s easy - beer, pasta and beer!

What is your most treasured possession? Definitely my family and my Clan!

©Yo-Art Photographie

GE OF F

ING T IPS AV SH ’S 1. For a perfect shave Y you need to also make an assessment of the beard and skin. 2. Then you need to prepare the skin for the shave because shaving is still aggressive to the skin. So It’s best to work with good quality products. I personally work with 1922 by J.M. KEUNE products. 3. And last but not least, you have to shave in the growth of the hair and then a second time but in the opposite way. Don’t forget that it’s a ritual and luxury, it has to be a wonderful experience for the client, and they have to feel that we are doing our utmost to take care of them.

WANT TO RECREATE YOUR STYLE AT HOME? With 1922 by J.M. Keune, it’s easy.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON OURKEUNE PRODUCTS GO TO KEUNE.COM WE USE & RECOMMEND HAIRCOSMETICS WWW.KEUNE.COM

S H AV I N G S P ECI A L

Written by: Jeroen Jansen, Shavingpoint

LEARN HOW TO SHAVE

Shaving is something that many men do day in, day out. What can often be a time dedicated to wellness also comes with its challenges, as I’ve learned in my 35 years as a barber, trainer and distributor in shaving and skincare products. In the past, men have learned to shave from their father teaching them, a ritual and moment of bonding that teenage boys would look forward to. But passing on this skill to the next generation is becoming less and less common. This is where barbers come in. They can give their customers personal advice based on their skin and beard type. I’d like to share some tips & tricks I’ve picked up over the years. Jeroen Jansen

Irritation with wet shaving Using shaving foam or gel from the can Figures show that the more traditional shaving method is becoming popular again. Men wanting to go for a wet shave to get rid of their five o’clock shadow often choose to use a shaving foam or gel from the spray can. This is a quick and easy solution, provided you don’t have a sensitive skin. If a customer using this method experiences irritation, this could well be caused by the natural and chemical additives in these products, which replace the warm water and the natural nourishing ingredients present in shaving soap and shaving cream.

Shaving irritation – How does it happen? As barbers, we often hear our customers talk about the problems they experience during and after shaving: a tugging sensation when shaving, not getting a close shave, in-grown beard hairs, inflammation and

a lasting burning sensation and skin irritation after shaving. Because barbershops typically offer a wet shave, we don’t get the irritation you do with electrical shaving. So, to offer the best advice, we need to understand where these shaving discomforts stem from.

Advice Clean the skin before shaving Exfoliate regularly Use a pre-shave oil or one with a water base Consider switching to a natural shaving soap or shaving cream Create a foam with a synthetic brush

Mondial Eco Fibre shaving brushes

Jeroen Jansen from Shavingpoint explains his tips and tricks for shaving. His valuable knowledge can help you give good shaving advice to your customers and turn into a great source of extra turnover!

Tip: Mondial 1908 offers the most state-of-the-art synthetic shaving brushes. These are less prone to bacteria building up and work just as well as badger brushes.

Unfortunately, it also has brought its problems when it comes to shaving performance. A narrower blade gap makes it difficult for soap and hair residue between the blades to drain away. Instead, it accumulates near the edges, at the sharp cutting part of the blades. The residue then prevents the blade from coming into contact with the skin, so you don’t get the ideal shaving angle of 30° or a close shave. This causes in-grown hairs and inflammation. We recently removed a 7 cm hair from a shaving model’s skin during a training session!

Advice If shaving is causing irritation and in-grown beard hairs, recommend using a shaving system with fewer blades and a wider gap between them. Take the popular Gillette compatible cartridge systems as an example: If you’re experiencing problems with the Gillette Fusion system, try using Gillette Mach 3 instead And if Mach 3 or similar isn’t doing the job, a modern safety razor is recommended Safety razors these days are much more comfortable than they used to be. Brands like Mondial 1908 and Böker recently launched comfortable safety razors on the market – which also come in an attractive set complete with a shaving brush.

Mondial Run shaving set

The increase in the number of blades, combined with the reduced gap between them, makes for a shaving system that is comfortable with optimized safety.

Böker safety razors

Blades: the more, the merrier… or less is more? As razor technology developed it spawned multiple-blade cartridge systems, evolving from single shavers (straight and safety razors) to cartridges with two, three, four, five or even more blades.

How do you prevent a tugging sensation while wet shaving? A tugging sensation during wet shaving is often caused by poor preparation, blunt razor blades, the wrong shaving system or the lack of proper technique.

Products from Saponificio Varesino and Mondial

Advice Be prepared Shave after showering, as the warm water and steam softens the hairs Clean the skin with a mild facial cleanser Use talcum powder first if you have oily skin – this will remove excess skin fats and greatly reduce resistance An effective pre-shave routine softens the beard hairs A rich and creamy shaving soap or cream, lathered up with a shaving brush, forms the ideal conductive layer for the razor.

Optimal technique Using the right care products and proven technique helps to prevent a great deal of discomfort during and after shaving. Plus, it can turn shaving into less of a daily obligation and more of a time for self-care. Use sharp razor blades and rinse them regularly Choose the type of razor with good soap and hair residue run-off, taking into account the combination of skin and beard hair Shave in a gentle diagonally sliding motion instead of a straight line – this cuts the hair easily and effectively, with a smooth result and minimal irritation Dip the shaving head in warm water prior to shaving to form an optimal conductive layer, together with the shaving foam on the skin, which reduces resistance

How do you prevent a persistent burning sensation after shaving? Many men experience prolonged skin irritation after shaving, and this can have multiple causes. The feeling is often described as burning and tugging. We often share two tricks to help overcome these problems: make sure you prepare properly for shaving and use the right follow-up care. Advice Pre-treatment and shaving technique Proper preparation is very important – see ‘Preparing for your shave’ on page 19 Shave in a diagonal sliding motion for minimal irritation, so hairs are cut before being pulled

A light shave that doesn’t apply pressure helps to prevent a burning sensation Dip the shaving head in warm water prior to shaving to form an optimal conductive layer between the blade and the skin After-care Rinse your skin after shaving Use a real alum block on damp skin for comfortable after-care Also use a cooling and soothing aftershave balm, gel or lotion to ease the burning sensation.

Advice Shave clean skin only Use a skin scrub from time to time to remove dead skin cells Lather the soap using a shaving brush – the massaging effect will help the hairs come out of the skin more straight A sharp razor blade gives a nice clean cut that greatly reduces the chance of in-grown hairs Shave in a gentle diagonally sliding motion instead of a straight line – this cuts the hair easily and effectively, with a smooth result and minimal irritation Shaving against the grain is not recommended

Mondial Aftershave from the Antica Barberia series

How do you reduce the risk of in-grown hairs and inflammation? Men with curlier beard hairs and wider skin pores suffer more from in-grown hairs when their beard grows back. They regularly try to pull the resulting hairloops out of their skin with a needle or something similar. This problem is especially common in the neck, where the hairs often come out of the skin at a gentler angle.

Written by: Jeroen Jansen, Shavingpoint

TWO BRANDS IN THE SPOTLIGHT Why should you have to put up with a burning pain after shaving? You should only grow a beard if you think it looks good on you – not because shaving is uncomfortable and causes so much long-lasting irritation. If you get your pre-shave routine right and follow the right technique, you can reduce any shaving irritation to a minimum.

Saponificio Varesino Saponificio Varesino has produced shaving and grooming products with 100% natural ingredients in the Italian town of Varese since 1945. With a multi-purpose pre-shave and the ultimately rich and soothing shaving soap and after-shave lotion from the Cubebe range, the Bardelli family business

– now in its third generation – knows how to make grooming products that deliver unparalleled comfort. This all in wide range of enticing fragrances in stylish packaging. Saponificio Varesino is becoming popular with barbers and consumers alike. In addition to nurturing aftershave products, the company also produces the Pro Victis Repair Cream, also known as ‘peace maker’. Pro Victis has been specially developed to produce a calming, caring and healing effect for sensitive shaved skin. It acts as an antiinflammatory, which you can feel directly after you’ve applied it. Saponifico Varesino Pro Victis

Mondial Antica Barberia series

Many manufacturers produce skincare and restorative products that soothe and cool the skin immediately after shaving. Marketing is often the main driving force in product development. But companies like Saponificio Varesino and Mondial 1908 put their generations of experience into their products and offer customers the ultimate in comfort. Still, these Italian brands are not as well known as others from the country. It’s high time we gave these brands the recognition they deserve.

Mondial 1908 In 1908, the barbers of Florence came together with one goal: to develop a high-quality shaving soap. Enter the Bagnoli family. By using only the best raw materials, Mondial has guaranteed the high quality of its shaving products from the very beginning. In the west of Florence, the fourth generation of the Bagnoli family produces the finest shaving and grooming products, sticking to its traditional roots while using the latest technology to offer superior quality. Products such as shaving brushes, razors and elegant shaving sets and accessories. Passion remains the driving force behind this company. The Antica Barberia range offers a wide range of shaving and beard care products. This collection contains water and oil-based pre-shave products, rich shaving soaps and aftershave products providing optimal care. Mondial 1908 produces a cooling and calming aftershave gel. The gel is absorbed through the skin very quickly, meaning its effect is felt immediately. Antica Barberia also includes the refreshing Original Citrus and Original Talc series, of which the aroma is reminiscent of the authentic barbershops of yesteryear.

Mondial Antica Barberia series

CHOOSE FROM MULTIPLE SHAVING SYSTEMS

Written by: Jeroen Jansen, Shavingpoint

Böker straight razors

S H AV I N G S P ECI A L

Our barbers’ blades can be equipped with a variety of replacement blades. I like to work with razors from Kasho Kai and Böker. I also use the matching replacement blades. These give me plenty of options to choose the right type of blade for every skin type and beard growth.

BÖKER Since 1869, the world-famous Böker brand based in Solingen – Germany’s ‘City of Knives’ – has produced razors, sports knives and collectors’ knives. Its razors come in a wide range of products, from popular safety razors to professional Barbarette barbers’ razors. A dedicated division within the company produces stunning, high-quality authentic straight razors – often inspired by world-renowned barbers – a dream come true for customers seeking an authentic wet shave. 22

As a barber, I’m regularly hired by my customers to set up a barbershop on their site using the shaving products they provide. Often, they put you in a prime spot that attracts a lot of people who come along and want to see how you do it all. One afternoon, after doing a series of shaving sessions for some satisfied customers, I was shaving my last customer of the day. “I’m curious...” he said. “Normally I can’t shave without it becoming a bloodbath.” After this cheerful opening, I enthusiastically started the optimal preperations of this sensitive skin and hard copper-wire beard. “I’ve only been using a trimmer for years,” he adds. “I just don’t get along with shaving”. Meanwhile, I see another nice group of people gathering around the pop-up barbershop, so I start to get a bit nervous. The last thing any barber wants is to make a customer bleed, especially in front of everyone!

After preparing the customer’s skin, I dip my blade into the rich, creamy shaving foam layer, with a carefully selected replacement blade, for the first pass. I gently slide the blade from the ear to jaw line and, to my horror, I see his skin is breaking in several places. Carrying on shaving like this would be a big no-no; we need a different approach. Fortunately, I always carry some authentic straight razors and a strop with me. This type of razor, which has been used since the end of 17th century, is the gentlest and most comfortable

shaving system on the market today. When you’ve made the shaving and blade-sharpening technique your own, you have a fierce-looking tool in your hand that feels like you’re being shaved with velvet. So, back to our customer: after preparing his skin again, I was able to shave him smoothly and without a drop of blood. My tip is to train yourself in this technique and use it to your advantage. More information www.shavingpoint.com

Böker’s classic Abalone open razor

But there can be times when only one type of razor can do the job: the authentic straight razor.

The last thing any barber wants is to make their customer bleed

GEMA MORENO

Collection: KONTEXT Hair: Gema Moreno (ES) Hair assistants: Dioni Martínez, Álvaro Sánchez Photography & Retouche: Edu Gómez Makeup: Lulú Pérez Styling: Álvaro De Olmedo Models: Carlos Lara Herrera, Alejandro Fernández, Gálvez, Aaron Román Velasco, Sergio Adrián Buitrago Products: American Crew Video: Info del Media @gema_moren, @antonioeloyescuela

SPAIN

The making of KONTEXT

GEMA MORENO

SPAIN

Collection: Mr. BOY Hair: Pelsynera (ES) Photography: Oliver Viladoms studio Makeup: Pelsynera Styling: Laura García Baena @pelsynera

PELSYNERA

SPAIN

Collection: Mr. BOY Hair: Pelsynera (ES) Photography: Oliver Viladoms studio Makeup: Pelsynera Styling: Laura García Baena @pelsynera

JESÚS VÁZQUEZ

Collection: Supreme Hair: Jesús Vázquez (ES) Photography: Óscar Rellán Makeup: team peluquería Jesús Vázquez Styling: V.M.Pan Products: SkullMen @peluqueriajvazquez_

SPAIN

Hair: Daan de Keijser, By Jelle (NL) Model: Tom van Groningen Photography: Boris Lutters @by.jelle

BY JELLE

THE NETHERLANDS

SHAUN BUCKINGHAM

Collection: The Youngman 1920 Hair: Shaun Buckingham (UK) Photography: Jordan Samuel Hughs Model: Rowan Nash-Coquio @shaun_fgman

UNITED KINGDOM

Collection: The Boss Man 1920 Hair: Shaun Buckingham (UK) Photography: Jordan Samuel Hughs Model: Will Byers @shaun_fgman

FRAN ARANDA

Collection: IDOLS Hair: Fran Aranda (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Brain on academy @brainonacademy

SPAIN

Collection: IDOLS Hair: Fran Aranda (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Brain on academy @brainonacademy

Video of IDOLS

Collection: YONAGUNI Hair: Fran Aranda (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Brain on academy @brainonacademy

FRAN ARANDA

SPAIN

Collection: YONAGUNI Hair: Fran Aranda (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Brain on academy @brainonacademy

SALONES CV

Collection: YONAGUNI Hair: Fran Aranda (ES) Photography: David Arnal Styling: Brain on academy @brainonacademy

ALBION BARBERS

Hair: Albion Barbers (UK) Photography: John Nelson Styling: Mai Ha @albion.barbers

UNITED KINGDOM

Hair: Albion Barbers (UK) Photography: John Nelson Styling: Mai Ha @albion.barbers

AYOZE MEDINA

Collection: PETRIFIED Hair: Barberia Ayoze Medina (ES) Photography: Marcos Cabrera Makeup: Ana Lidia Alonso Styling: Ayoze Medina Models: Adan Gonzalez, Onan Medina, Diego Balmaceda, David martin Products: Skullmen @barberiaayozemedina

SPAIN

PACO LÓPEZ

Collection: ATTITUDE Hair & Photography: Paco López (ES) Direction of photography: DAVID ARNAL Styling: VISORI @thebarbershopbypacolopez

SPAIN

Collection: ATTITUDE Hair & Photography: Paco López (ES) Direction of photography: DAVID ARNAL Styling: VISORI @thebarbershopbypacolopez

DAPPER DAN BEARD BALM For daily beard styling and beard care. Provides a medium hold, cares for the skin and beard with lanolin, beeswax and coconut oil. With a timeless oriental-woody fragrance. Helps every “Dapper Dan man” to give his beard a light styling every day, soothe the skin and protect it from drying out. Handcrafted in Germany. More information www.PomadeShop.com

DEPOT NO. 408 MOISTURIZING AFTER SHAVE BALM

GROOMING

Classic Cologne. Fresh Black Pepper

This restoring and refreshing aftershave lotion is specially formulated for the most demanding skin. It soothes and calms redness caused by shaving and hydrates the skin. Provides comfort and elasticity for the face without causing irritation. Compensates skin stress caused by shaving. More information www.depotmaletools.com

BETTER BE BOLD No Hair. Full Care. Bald Cream 100% natural & vegan care for the scalp: moisturizing the skin. Soothing. Anti-Shine. Sustainable Premium Packaging with glass and recycled PET. Made in Germany and specially developed for sensitive scalp.

For a soft beard and healthy skin, use a few drops of Beard Oil from 1922 by J.M. Keune in your daily care. Massage into beard to moisturize and promote healthy beard growth, prevent split ends and make styling easier. In addition, this oil will add a great scent to your beard all day long. More information www.keune.com

GROOMING

1922 BY J.M. KEUNE BEARD OIL

More information www.betterbebold.eu

AMERICAN CREW® PRECISION BLEND

American Crew Precision Blend offers hairdresser a natural grey-blending service for men who are looking to camouflage their grey hairs in a natural way. This hydrating, ammonia free formula, enriched with B5 vitamin is suitable for

both hair and beard and gives natural results in just 5 minutes. Available in 4 different shades. More information www.americancrew.com

CAPTAIN FAWCETT’S ‘EXPEDITION RESERVE’ DAILY MOISTURISER

GROOMING

Captain Fawcett’s ‘Expedition Reserve’ Moisturiser is an elegant salve, richly formulated hydrating cream with a fresh subtle scent to leave skin feeling silky smooth. Infused with vitamin extracts & plant based nutrients to help eliminate toxins, keeping a chap’s complexion clear and in tip top health. This daily moisturiser won a Gold award in the ‘Best New Male Skin Care Product’ category in 2021’s Pure Beauty Awards.

More information www.captainfawcett.com

DARK STAG NECK BRUSH Dark Stag’s best selling signature Barber Neck Brush is produced in elegant dark wood with extra fine, super-soft bristles to wipe away unwanted hair and complete the customers barber shop experience. A barber favourite that with a look that enhances any workstation. More information www.darkstag.com

Specially designed for maximum airflow, low noise, low vibration and minimum weight, the GOLDFX blow dryer (FXBDG1E), a pure MADE IN ITALY technological and engineering gem, delivers faster drying and long lasting styling results with the necessary comfort in mind. More information www.babylisspro.eu

IN-SHOP

BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS GOLDFX BLOW DRYER

LIFESTYLE

LES DEUX FRÈRES Flat Cap

1 Stetson Gilet

2 QB24 Shirt

3 Forét Blazer

4 QB24

Suspenders with bowtie

5 Sir Redman

Combi-Pack Jeans

6 Blue de Gênes Socks

Sneakers

8 Copenhagen Studios More information www.lesdeuxfreres.nl

LIFESTYLE

7 Alfredo Gonzales

RENOWNED BARBER RONALD DE BONT LAUNCHES NEW PRODUCT RANGE

BLACK RAVEN

BR AND BITE

Educator, entrepreneur and now pioneer in the barber trade, Ronald de Bont has a lot under his belt. With four barbershops in Groningen already, he also recently developed and launched a new product line called Black Raven. Ronald has discovered all the secrets behind men’s hair through his craft and has been sharing his knowledge in the sector for years. Now he’s put all that expertise and experience into a new product line. We spoke to him about Black Raven, as well as his entrepreneurial spirit and the grey hairs that go with it.

The idea “I guess I’m just curious by nature. I’m always on the lookout for the perfect products, and I’ve tried a lot of them from various brands. I rub it around in my fingers and ask myself: how does it feel, what kind of texture does it have, what does it smell like? I don’t just want products that we can get on with in the shop; I also want the best for our customers. That means we only work with top-shelf products... the best that every brand has to offer. But all those different brands can be confusing for customers. Plus, it’s doesn’t always make business sense. You’re only getting one or two products from each brand rather than a whole product line, so you can’t really take advantage of discounts and pass those savings on to customers. That’s why I wanted to develop a product line of my own, with only the very best products that might also interest other barbers.”

Black Raven “I found a supplier that could turn what I wanted into the products I had in mind. The best of the best. Black Raven now has 14 products. From styling and volume products to No67 beard care products in the same fragrance line as the No67 scent in an Eau de Cologne. They are high-quality products that I have hand-picked personally. They ooze simplicity and class, and meet the contemporary needs of customers and consumers. Of course, the products meet the standards of our day: they’re free from parabens and sulphate, plus they’re sustainable by using tin as packaging instead of plastic.” Talking about where the name came from, Ronald says, “I took the name from my chain of barbershops De Zwarte Raaf, which means ‘The Black Raven’ in Dutch. To make it more international, I went with the English name. It’s catchy, it’s masculine and it’s intriguing. But I deliberately chose to move away from an association with the

IPS G T IN

Take your time! Both when it comes to shaving and choosing the products you use, so they do what you want them to. Pre-shave, shaving cream, balm and after-care; all products have an ideal application time. This also has an effect on the experience your customer gets. And... experience is the best teacher of all. The more you shave, the better you’ll get at it.

Personal and manageable “My dream is for a very limited number of leading barbers in the Netherlands to stock my products. I want it to be an exclusive product line, one you won’t find on every street corner. I intentionally want to keep it small, because I want to stick to my promises. So, I want to keep it manageable and personal. It’s important for me to be able to explain the product to customers myself and have a one-to-one relationship with them. I hope to create a sense of community and perhaps even develop my own hair fashion collection. Black Raven would also appeal

to unisex salons that want to bring in more male customers. The branding fits right in with modern, high-end places. I like using my knowledge to help them. But it’s a product line that suits more than barbershops or men’s hairdressers alone. My biggest challenge is winning over the confidence of customers and consumers with the product line!”

RONAL D’ S

barbershops. The products also have a different look and feel. It’s a stand-alone brand in its own right.”

I like using my knowledge to help others The next step Black Raven is gradually being rolled out onto the market, with a focus on online sales channels. Ronald explains, “Online sales channels are a must for any brand today, hands down. No brand can thrive or even survive without them; they are so important. The trick is to be clear with each other on what your approach is on these channels. We are discussing this in advance, so there’s no ambiguity further down the line.” Ronald is also looking at opportunities internationally, where he wants to apply the same exclusive distribution strategy as he is at home. “But I want to make sure I achieve my goals in the Netherlands first!” Entrepreneurial spirit Ronald is constantly innovating as an entrepreneur. But he has faced major challenges. Not everything will work– he has had his ups and downs. His ‘Barbieshop’ concept, the opposite of a barbershop,

wasn’t the success he had hoped for. He had to face reality and call it a day. Entrepreneurship is about trying, failing and then trying again. “Despite growing wiser over the years and having the support of friends, family and colleagues, you still have to do it all yourself. No-one else will do it for you; you have to take the initiative yourself. I’m constantly thinking about: how do I keep my plans and ideas in check and how do I keep my staff happy and on the ball? I create growth opportunities for my guys in De Zwarte Raaf barbershops through a combination of being a salaried employee and developing into a self-employed professional. You need to forge a great working environment. That’s why I ask them how they think we can do better. Especially after the coronavirus pandemic, it’s so important to maintain that high profile. You need to stay front of mind and do your best to keep your customers coming back. Keep an eye on quality and put your customers at the heart of everything you do. Success comes with bumps in the road. If you can’t manage to do something, don’t give up. Try doing it differently. That way, you’ll learn from your mistakes.”

Coaching “I recommend every barber find someone versatile to be their coach. An old hand in or outside the profession. An expert by experience, who you can ask for advice, who can help and guide you with advice and show you how things are done. This is the role I play. Share your knowledge with colleagues, that will make you wiser. Find like-minded people.” The experience Ronald gained as a Global Ambassador for the male haircare brand 1922 by J.M. Keune enriched his knowledge. He worked with some of the world’s top barbers and got an insight into a truly remarkable company. Ronald continues, “That experience really made me wiser and inspired me in a lot of different ways.” Best of both worlds When asked whether he sees himself as more of a barber or as an entrepreneur, Ronald answers, “A barber. It’s in your blood. I get my creativity out of practising on models. But I think the challenges are on the business side. I actually get the best of both worlds.” Where does he see himself in five years’ time? “I want to carry on sharing my knowledge, whether it’s as a barber professional or an entrepreneur. I’ve gained so much experience; there’s a lot of value in that. It would be nice if I could carry on earning a

living that way, by selling what you know. I’ll still be the same Ronald in five years’ time. I’ll always be curious and want to continue proving myself. That has to do with my ambition, on all fronts. I don’t just want to be a good barber, but the best. That’s just the way I am. As far as Black Raven is concerned, it would be nice if it takes off, of course. But shifting tonnes of boxes of products isn’t the be-all and end-all. It needs to become a brand with character. I’d like to add more to the product line over the next few years.” Quality, simplicity and a no-nonsense approach without a doubt make Black Raven a newcomer to the market that barbers and consumers won’t be able to get enough of! More information @blackravenhairproducts, www.blackraven.men

Ronald’s Top 3 Black Raven products 1 Black Raven Natural paste For men who need some structure and hold in their hair, without making it too thick. 2 Black Raven Thickening cream Gives firmness, body and texture to finer hair. 3 No67 Beard care line Charming products for your beard, with a refined scent. 65

INTERV IEW

AN OLD SCHOOL BARBER IN HIGH-TECH SOUTH KOREA Kim Seung-Rae has been a big name on South Korea’s barber scene for 6 years now. With almost 10,000 followers on Instagram, he’s bringing South Korean barber culture into the spotlight. His barbershop, Kenko, is located in Hongdae, a trendy part of the country’s capital Seoul. We talked to him about life as a barber on the peninsula, Squid Game and what ambitions he has for the future. He hopes his story will inspire others.

What made you decide to become a barber?

I’m sure most men will remember what it was like going to the barber’s when they were young boys. I too have got memories of that, and I can still picture how I would get my hair cut in a barbershop, with my father holding my hand. I loved going for a haircut and just spending time there, and when I got a little older, I enjoyed getting a shave there as well. At some point, I even realised that I loved the old school barbershop so much – with its atmosphere and classic hairstyles – that I wanted to become a barber myself. So, I’ve sort of slowly eased into the profession, and especially the traditional side of it, in a very organic way. 66

How is life in South Korea at the moment? Is it hard to earn a living as a barber there?

A lot of people are uneasy because of COVID-19 at the moment. The rules are to limit contact with people as much as possible and wear a face covering everywhere you go. This has obviously affected the turnover in my barbershop too, as people are coming in less often. But it’s not difficult to earn a living as a barber. Barbershops are gaining more and more ground here, becoming more established, and the number of customers is increasing. It’s developing steadily.

@ibalsa_sr

How did you learn the craft?

I studied at this shabby, old barber academy. It was quite traditional in the way it taught, giving me the classic old-school skills, but I had a great deal of fun in creating styles.

Can you tell me a bit about your barberhop?

Together with my business partner, we’ve tried to make Kenko evoke a 1950s Rockabilly and Western vibe. We strive to provide a new interpretation of the old traditional hairstyles and offer a variety of hairstyles for men, based on the old-school barber cut. By communicating clearly with our customers, we create hairstyles that meet their needs as much as possible. I started Kenko to forge a traditional barbershop culture, while still exuding the style and vision we are looking for.

What’s the barber culture like in South Korea?

Barber culture is relatively new here. More barbershops, workshops, training courses and academies are gradually popping up. I want to host events and competitions, where barbers from all over the world can meet barbers from Korea, so I can play my part in developing barber culture here. I try to motivate barbers and encourage students to get into the profession, in the hope of taking the profession to a higher level.

What do you like most about working as a barber? The best thing I can think of is that you can meet people from different professions in your area. We see a wide variety of customers come into our barbershop: entertainers, actors, rappers, influencers, film directors, writers, doctors,

lawyers...even the President! We hear lots of interesting stories we otherwise wouldn’t have. There’s nothing that makes me prouder than when customers come in with messy or scruffy hair and leave with a neat and groomed hairdo. I’m really happy I chose to become a barber.

And what do you like least about your work?

We set aside an hour for each client so if you get ten clients a day, you don’t have time to sit down and catch your breath. It’s not a drawback per se; it just takes a toll on you physically.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I get inspiration from different places. I get inspired by the styles in old movies and rock ‘n’ roll singers from days of yore. I also take inspiration from haircuts I see on social media and chatting to colleagues from other barbershops, who share their experiences and their vision of barbering with me.

Make each day fun, meaningful and full of laughs

What are the latest hair trends in South Korea?

Generally a lot of neat and clean hairstyles. Yet you see more and more people using pomade to create these impressive shapes in their hair. That’s making barbershops more popular.

The South Korean Netflix series Squid Game is very popular around the world at the moment. Do haircuts from TV series and movies provide inspiration for your clients?

(Laughs) It’s funny how Squid Game has become so popular internationally! TV series and movie styles are a tremendous inspiration for my clients. When Brad Pitt had that slick back undercut in The Fury, clients would bring a photo of him in and ask for the same hairstyle. The film Kingsman also inspired clients with its long trim pompadour cut using pomade. TV shows and movies really do have a lot of impact on people.

You’ve got some 10,000 followers on Instagram. How important is your presence on social media and how does it benefit you specifically?

There’s not really one huge advantage to mention. But as my presence on social media grows, more and more people are liking my hairstyles. I get to connect with barbers from around the world through DMs and emails. Another plus is the cooperation and sponsorship offers from different brands. That’s the better side of it: good experiences and great memories. I feel really positive about it!

Anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

To all the barbers reading BarberSociety magazine: being a barber is such a wonderful job. Carry on loving your work and really love the barbershop culture. Make each day fun, meaningful and full of laughs. Time stops for no-one. Make every moment mean something. I’m really glad I chose this profession, and I learn a lot from it. Hopefully I’ll get to meet you at an event some time, so you can get to know some barbers from South Korea. I’m sure they’ll inspire you. Love & peace!

70 70

BARBERS & THE CITY

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting the Romanian capital. The highly talented Robert Andrei, who is a member of our BarberSociety community, helped us create this edition’s Barbers & The City. Check out Bucharest’s cool barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting their city. 71

BARBERS & THE CITY

Men Code Studio Bulevardul Unirii, nr. 47C Bucharest 030825 +40 749 398 140 www.mencode.ro @mencodestudio Men Code Studio is owned by the talented barber Robert Andrei, who came in second in the BarberSociety Battle 2019 and is a well-known figure in Romania. Together with his business partner, he operates this unique barbershop in Bucharest with two branches at top locations. He explains: “Men Code Studio is exactly the image of any man in the age we live in. We are proud of the industrial/minimalist image of the salon and we believe that we have a unique image in Bucharest. We are a salon with eleven barbers, ready for any trend and ready to satisfy the requirements of any client. On our team we have a number 72

of award-winning hairdressers who have placed in both national and international competitions. We believe in our team and in our mentality and we are definitely growing in this field!”

Jo Lounge Unirii Avenue, Terrace 5, district 3 Bucharest +40 721 811 995 www.jolounge.ro @jo.lounge

OUR HOTSPOTS

Situated along the quiet shore of Dambovita river, Jo Lounge offers great food with a creative flair. Always a positive vibe and a beautiful view!

Freddo Bar and Lounge Str Smardan , nr 24 , district 3 Bucharest +40 722 373 336 www.freddo.ro @freddobarlounge Freddo Bar & Lounge is one of the most exclusive locations in the Historical Centre. The modern design, inviting menus and relaxing atmosphere combine to make Freddo one of Bucharest’s most attractive and stylish lounges. Freddo always hosts the coolest parties with great music on the weekends!

FACE Club 3-5 Piata Presei Libere Bucharest +40 730 400 800 www.faceclubbucharest.com @faceclubbucharest Face Club is the place to be in Bucharest! An unforgettable experience in exceptional surroundings. It was recently awarded the title of “Best Club in Romania” by World’s Finest Clubs.

BARBERS & THE CITY

Frizeria de pe Plaja Strada Vaslile Lascar 129 Bucharest 030167 +40 753 167210 www.mero.ro/p/frizeriadepeplaja @frizeriadepeaja The translation of “Frizeria de pe Plaja” is “The Beach Bar Barbershop”. Owner and talented barber Kani, who we know from the International Barber Awards and the Romanian Monster Barbering Show, explains that his shop is different than other shops you find on every street. “The main idea of the shop is to be a place where guys can have a drink, play some games and get a cool haircut. We love when our clients also drop by for just a drink and to spend some time in the shop.”

OUR HOTSPOTS Alt Shift Strada Constantin Mille 4 Bucharest 010142 +40 727 316 245 / +40 372 980 225 @alt.shift My favourite restaurant is “Alt Shift”, which is a cool place to eat good food and meet awesome people. People care a lot about the quality of the food, so the chefs always step up their game by going to workshops all around the world.

Kuma Bar Strada Coltei 50 Bucharest 030167 @kuma.bar My favourite bar in town is “Kuma Bar”! A small place full of life and cool and creative people. It’s the kind of place where you go and have the best time until at least 7am! You go there to do your shots, that’s for sure! If you end up in Kuma, you’ll feel like you know everybody!

BARBERS & THE CITY

Retro Barbershop Str Mizil nr 2 A , district 3 Bucharest 032345 +40 771 717 299 www.retrobarbershop.ro @retrobarbershop1 The founders of Retro Barbershop are two brothers, Dany, a professional barber and Paul, a business enthusiast with a lot of passion for organisation and management. They both have more than 15 years of experience in the business. They put passion into every service they offer. In a roomy space with a vintage look interior design and original leather barber chairs, clients can enjoy the full barbershop experience. They offer a hybrid approach to services, combining classic, creative and the newest styles in a friendly atmosphere. The Retro Barbershop’s staff is carefully chosen and consists of a highly trained team of

dedicated professionals that is committed to making men look their best every day of the week. With a second location opening soon and plans for other new locations, they are looking to expand their business all across Bucharest over the next couple of years. They will maintain the same concept and, most importantly, the same high standards of professionalism and dedication at all their new locations. ONZE HOTSPOTS Le Bab Calea Victoriei 12A Bucharest 030026 +40 770750842 www.lebabromania.squarespace.com

My favourite restaurant in Bucharest is Le bab Bucharest because they have such tasty food and friendly staff. They

opened their first restaurant in Soho London in 2015 and then the second one in Bucharest in 2019. People liked it so much that they opened another location in Bucharest recently. The Brunch Affair +40 722 707 768 @the_brunch_affair My favourite club in Bucharest is not really a club as it doesn’t have an exact location. It is a concept called ‘The Brunch Affair’ that throw amazing parties in different places in Bucharest with guest DJs from Romania who play fun music. The Brunch Affair is a unique vibe.

COS Store 116 Calea Victoriei, district 1 Bucharest 010092 +40-314053714 www.cosstores.com My favourite men’s shop in Bucharest is COS store owned by H&M brand because of its highquality, thoughtful and timeless designs meant to last beyond the season.

INTERV IEW

BARBER BABE

@brothers_men_m @brothers_men

Ming Ho is co-founder of the highly successful Brothers Men chain of six barbershops in Hong Kong. In her role as senior barber, she has pioneered the fusion of Eastern and Western barbering cultures. She and her business partner Nick Yeung learned the finer points of classic barbering in Italy. Ming says being a woman works to her advantage as a barber because it gives her a different perspective on both barbering and caring for clients. She says her journey in barbering is just gathering steam and that she has big plans for the future. We met up with Ming virtually to find out more about this driving force in intercultural barbering.

MING HO Growing up in Hong Kong Ming was born and raised in Hong Kong. She grew up in a loving family who has always supported her. She wasn’t a star pupil at school and rebelled against convention to follow more creative pursuits. Ming tells us about her childhood: “I’m just an everyday Hongkonger. 80

I grew up in a very ordinary family. We weren’t rich and it was just the three of us because I didn’t have any brothers or sisters. I have a very caring mother and I’ve always been the apple of my father’s eye. When I was little, I wasn’t very good at school. I’d literally get sick every time I had to take exams. But like most kids, I loved to rebel and go against the flow.” Trade It wasn’t an obvious choice for a woman to pursue a career in barbering. So how did Ming’s journey into barbering begin? “My journey in barbering began thanks to one very important

person: my business partner Nick Yeung. We set up a company together and started selling men’s hair products. We analysed each product according to the hair style, product type, desired result, etc. This triggered my interest in barbering, and we decided to go for it.” Italian master barber Ming’s interest in barbering took her to Italy where she learned the ins and outs of the craft from a seasoned professional. Ming explains: “I went to Italy to learn about the barbering profession. I had the privilege of being able to study the craft at an Italian barbershop. I was taught the fine points of the craft by an older barber who isn’t well-known but who is a real master of his trade. It was a great experience!”

Trust Ming sees the fact that she is a woman in a male-dominated world as an advantage rather than a disadvantage. “I’m fortunate as a woman in the barbering industry because people have more trust in my work. Clients sense that I really listen to them and are attentive to their needs. I view their hair from a woman’s perspective and help them choose the style that suits them the best. When it comes to being as proficient as my male counterparts, I think my work speaks for itself.” The key to success Brothers Men Barbershop has grown into a very successful business with six branches. What’s the key to its success? “We chose the name Brothers Men barbershop because ‘brothers’ is a more cordial name than friends, plus it’s a name everyone understands. I think the secret to our success lies in our passion for the business. We don’t leave the day-to-day operations to our employees but are personally involved in everything that happens at Brothers Men Barbershop. It all comes down to hard work and long hours.”

Fusion Eastern and Western cultures Ming is recognised as a pioneer in the fusion of Eastern and Western barbering cultures. She explains how she merges the two cultures and incorporates aspects of both into her work. “Hong Kong is a place that brings together people from around the world. We have the huge benefit of being the crossroads where Eastern and Western cultures converge. I just combine the latest trends with timehonoured traditions. My aim is to bring together the innovation in Western culture with the persistence of Eastern culture.” Barber shows A frequent performer at barber shows and events, Ming thinks it is important for barbers from around the world to come together to share skills and learn about different cultures. “I’m so fortunate to be invited to participate in hairdressing performances and events. I love having the opportunity to meet like-minded friends and exchange skills. It’s also great to host events here because Chinese events give us the chance to introduce Hong Kong barber culture to a wide audience.”

Pandemic While the pandemic has been tough on the Hong Kong economy, Ming says their business is emerging successfully from this crisis and that the barbering sector has performed better than some other fields. “The epidemic has a great impact on the global economy, and it has of course also affected Hong Kong. It has had an effect on people’s income stability and living and consumption habits. Fortunately, a haircut is always a necessity of life! Thanks to the strong reputation of Brothers Men Barbershop and the support of our customers, we’ve been able to maintain the income balance. But we’ve still felt a real impact, but just slightly less so than our counterparts.” Future plans Ming has big ambitions for the future and plans to open more barbershops. “We always have and always will be committed to promoting the exchange and development of Chinese and Western men’s barbering culture. So we’ll continue to promote education and culture and are hoping to set up a men’s hairdressing academy. Brothers Men Barbershop currently has six branches in Hong Kong and will continue to add more barbershops in various districts in the future!”

BARBERS COCKTAILS

GET MIXING! sometimes serve stylish cocktails as the finishing touch to the total barbering experience. Reason enough for BarberSociety to speak with one of the Netherlands’ only remaining independent distilleries - Zuidam Distillers. Gilbert and Patrick Van Zuidam selected three of their unique products that are ideally suited as a key ingredient in amazing cocktails.

Hair: Sam Wall † Photography: Marie Harkness Model: Jack Sutherland from Colours Agency

‘Shaken, not stirred.’ There are plenty of men who, just like James Bond, love cocktails. But we’re not talking about those sickeningly sweet cocktails. Men prefer a slightly different taste when it comes to their tipple. They like intense drinks without a lot of fuss. Bold ingredients, complex flavours and highquality alcohol. The festive season is just around the corner and barbershops

Zuidam Old Genever Peated American Oak 1Y.O. A pleasant surprise for every whisky lover and everyone who enjoys Zuidam genevers. You could say that two worlds are brought together in an unexpected way. It’s Zuidam’s wonderful Dutch Old Genever, but it’s made of peated malted barley that brings about a lovely smoky flavour. By letting this genever mature for a least a year in new American oak barrels, a range of flavour tones such as vanilla, wood and orange gradually develop and the rich smoky tones of peated malted barley come to the fore. The end result is a well-balanced genever, which in terms of taste can hold its own with many whiskies. It’s great straight up, but it’s also a wonderful mixer for fine cocktails.

‘Blood and Sand’

Ingredients Zuidam Peated Genever 50ml Zuidam Cherry Liqueur 25ml Sweet Vermouth 25ml Fresh orange juice 25ml Ice cubes or a big ball of ice Orange zest as a garnish Utensil Old fashioned glass

Zuidam Rye Genever 1Y.O. This special genever combines the earthiness of rye with the flavours of juniper berries, liquorice root and aniseed. The rye eau de vie is triple distilled in small red copper pot skills from a 100% rye grain mix. The new rye distillation is then aged in American oak barrels for at least one year. All the ingredients are combined before it is diluted to drinking strength.

‘Old Peat’

Ingredients Zuidam Peated Genever 50ml Cola 100ml Ice cubes Lemon wedge as a garnish Utensil Long drink glass

‘Dutch Boulevardier’

Ingredients Rye Genever 1Y.O. 30ml Campari 30ml Sweet vermouth 30ml Ice cubes Orange zest as a garnish Utensil Long drink glass / cocktail glass

‘Fly-Co’

Ingredients Flying Dutchman Rum 1Y.O. 50ml Cola 100ml Ice cubes Utensil Long drink glass

‘Good Hope’

Ingredients Flying Dutchman Rum 1Y.O. 50ml Fresh lime juice (half a lime) Sugar syrup Ginger beer (top up) Ice cubes Lime wedge as a garnish Utensil Long drink glass / cocktail glass

Zuidam Flying Dutchman Rum 1Y.O. Zuidam’s Flying Dutchman rum is the very first rum to be distilled in the Netherlands and in Europe for that matter. Zuidam started with two types of rum (rum 1 and rum 3), which stem from their many years of experience in distillation and their quest for perfection. The rum is distilled from pure cane sugar molasses. Flying Dutchman Rum 1Y.O. has been aged for at least 12 months in new American elm barrels.

About Zuidam Distillers Zuidam Distillers is one of the Netherlands’ last remaining independent distilleries that still produces all its distillations and extracts in a traditional way within its own family company. They create a wide range of award-winning liqueur, genever, gin & whiskey based on purely natural raw materials. It goes without saying that no artificial fragrances, colors and flavors are used. The same attention that is paid to the taste of their traditional quality product is reflected in the design of the bottles and packaging.

C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R

THE ART OF SHAVING Shaving plays an important role in every man’s life. It’s that crucial rite of passage between boyhood to manhood. As a young lad growing up, I cherished every hair that came out of my chin. Every follicle that sprouted hair was treated like fine gold. I remember, the countless hours spent in front of the mirror, daydreaming what hair on the top of my lip would look like and waiting to join that exclusive club of shavers… and ‘Become a Man!’

I guess like most things impatiently hoped for; that very first shave was very disappointing. I didn’t have a clue what I was doing. I used the wrong razor, the wrong products for my skin, and as a result, my face was on fire. I had waited all that time just for skin irritation! This is the story of most men’s shaving lives... a constant battle in search of the perfect wet shave. Today, professional barbers have regained this age-old practice. In addition, providing scalp treatments, hair-loss treatments, colour and facial services. Thus, creating a new type of Pro Barber. There are so many product companies that are offering a vast range of professional products specifically geared to the modern man. This has given the professional barber an enormous choice in what to retail to their clientele. Retailing has become a multi-million-pound industry and I feel that the modern barber has benefited positively from this. The barbershop is a perfect place to offer an unparalleled professional shave service.

Well, here is my professional guide to revolutionising your shaving experience. Examine your clients face closely to determine the direction of the hair growth. The art of shaving may be achieved by either wet or dry shaving methods. Sometimes in your consultation, you will have to identify whether to wet shave or dry shave, due to different skin concerns.

Dry Shave Electric shavers are mostly used by the self-shaver. This method is not often used in barbershops or salons because the electric shaver is more difficult to sterilise also, they do not provide such a close shave. However, trimmers and clippers may be used in the barbershop setting as a method of shaving clients that have problematic shave concerns such as ingrown hair. A dry shave with a trimmer can reduce the risk of ingrown hair by not allowing the whiskers to be cut too short. With the hair cut just above the surface of the skin, it has a greater chance of growing free from re-entering the skin.

FREE ONLINE SHAVING COURSE Chris Foster offers an exclusive FREE online shaving course (Worth £150) for BarberSociety magazine readers. To claim leave Chris a DM with the words ‘BARBERSOCIETY FREE CLASS’ on Instagram @theprofile.guy 88

Wet Shave Wet shaving is the method of shaving traditionally used in barbershops. It is achieved by using a straight razor. The skin is well prepared with the application of products and water (hydration). The hair is removed with a razor while the hair is still wet. The fundamental principles of wet shaving revolve around the importance of hot water, a rich warm protective lather, and the actual techniques themselves.

Before applying the hot towel, rub a small amount of pre-shave oil in the palm of your hands and massage it into the beard. Use a circular motion to lift the beard off the face. Unroll a hot towel and wrap it around the client’s face, ensure the towel does not cover the nose or the client will have difficulty breathing. Allow the towel to remain on the face until lukewarm. Apply shave cream with a shaving brush in circular movements; be sure to use enough product. Traditional lather must be applied with a brush. The brush transports moisture to the skin and beard generating a rich protective lather.

Keep the straight razor at the correct cutting angle. Shave in the direction of growth. When using a straight razor do not apply too much pressure this will irritate the skin by removing too many surface skin cells. This first shave will remove approximately 80% of the hair length. The tension hand is placed behind the razor so that the skin can be stretched or pinched before carrying out each stroke. This enables a close shave and reduces the risk of cuts. When finished, apply a cold towel and soothing protection spray to close the pores. To finish your treatment, apply aftershave balm to the skin, this acts as an antiseptic nourishing and moisturising the skin.

Shaving Brush The best bristle brush is a badger brush since it is naturally soft and is the best for moisture retention and softness. There are four main grades of badger hair brushes: pure, fine, silvertip and high mountain. The difference between them is in the hair quality(softness) density. Other types of brushes are horse, boar and synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibre brushes are easier to sterilise. I recommend having two or three brushes in rotation as a professional barber. Two brushes should be sterilised while one is being used. A method of sterilisation Wash and clean the brush in antibacterial soap this should be done after each use of the brush. Submerge barbering brush in diluted baby sterilising fluid for 15mins. Chris Foster – ‘the profile guy’!

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

FOOTBALL AND BARBERING – A GREAT MATCH

@MAESONS_utrecht

from left to right: Michel Vorm, Lindsey Bennett, Maeson Bennett

Two years ago, former Dutch Tottenham Hotspur goalkeeper Michel Vorm and barber Maeson and his wife Lindsey Bennett came up with an innovative barbershop concept. MAESONS in Utrecht (the Netherlands) offers the ‘ultimate men-experience’. Michel’s father found fame running one of the first Surinamese barbershops in the city, specialising in afros. So the fact that this former professional footballer has gone into the barbering trade too should come as no surprise. In this double interview, Michel and Maeson share their enthusiasm about the concept, discussing how football and barbering aren’t so different, what it means to be an entrepreneur and the time when Michel’s father opened his renowned barbershop.

INTERVIEW WITH MICHEL VORM AND MAESON BENNETT

Michel, how did your father get into the barber business? Michel: When I was a little boy, I would often hang out in my dad’s unisex barbershop. Later on, I started to earn some pocket money doing thinks like sweeping up hair. My dad’s shop – Kapsalon Eddy – was something of a novelty in the Utrecht area. I didn’t really notice at the time. Even now, being a well-known professional footballer, people still know me because of my famous father! He might not be the best barber, but he created an atmosphere that just made people want to be there. They felt like they could open up and practically didn’t want to leave when their appointment was over. There was music, food and a lot of laughs. It just felt very intimate. His motto was: A day you haven’t laughed is a day you haven’t lived. Do you know in that film Coming to America, that scene in the barbershop? Well, that’s what it was like for us! Everyone knew my

dad, from the people roaming the city streets to the doormen at the clubs. He knew better than anyone how to build a bond with people, but also how to get them to bond with each other. He’s 81 years old now, but he’s still highly respected. But you didn’t go straight into cutting hair, but into saving goals? Michel: Haha, that’s right. He still hasn’t forgiven me! He feels let down by the fact that not one of his two sons or two daughters has taken over his business. When I was young, football was just my thing. I’ve been a footballer for the past 20 years: from playing for an amateur club when I was young, up to professional level as a goalkeeper for Tottenham Hotspur in London. I’ve made the Dutch national squad and played in two World Cups and one UEFA Championship. All in all, I’ve played in 350 games, fifteen for the national side. I’ve seen and experienced a lot of wonderful things in my lifetime. But about eighteen months ago, I got to a crossroads. I’m 38 now, an age when you have to make some choices. I have a family with three children, and I want them to give them some stability. We decided to move back to the Netherlands. I did consider carrying on playing football here but then Covid happened, and it’s no fun playing empty stadiums. I wanted to focus on my family, on going into business. A new direction, essentially. We had already started MAESONS, and I wanted to put my energy into that. It’s really remarkable that I ended up in the barber trade. Not as a barber though, but as an entrepreneur! Maybe my dad has forgiven me after all.

How did you meet Maeson? Michel: I always had my hair cut in my dad’s shop. But when he retired and he couldn’t carry on working at home, I came across Maeson Barbershop, which my brother told me about. So, I sat down in the chair in front of Maeson, we started talking, also about business, and from there we became friends. His wife Lindsey was involved in the barbershop on the business side of things. Once I moved abroad, I always came back to him whenever I was back visiting the Netherlands. During the 2014 World Cup in Brazil, I even asked him to come out to Brazil and he took care of almost the entire Dutch team.

Maeson, how did you get into barbering? Maeson: I’m also sports-mad. I played top-level football and also studied sports. Cutting hair was a hobby of mine at the time, so that’s how it came about. When I was little, my dad would cut my hair at home. He always ruined it, made it look like a bowl cut. I used to practise cutting my brother’s hair at home. Sometimes I’d make him sit in that chair for three or four hours at a time, to the point that he would cry. I had a knee injury, so couldn’t make a career out of football, but with my wife Lindsey’s encouragement, I started focusing on cutting hair. There wasn’t really any dedicated

You’re only as strong as your weakest link

formal training for barbers at that time, so I taught myself. I just started doing it. I didn’t think it could be difficult. I couldn’t be any worse than my father, and I was sure I could do better! Once I started getting busy, I really got into it and let the creativity flow. I taught myself my very own cutting technique and am a good all-round barber; I cut all kinds of hair and all styles of hair. When I started my own business in 2009, it also took off quickly. After three years of working from my barbershop on the outskirts of Utrecht, I moved into the city centre. I wanted to show the city what I was capable of! And here we are, 13 years later, and I still love cutting hair. And with our new MAESONS brand, I’m developing my entrepreneurship even more. How did the MAESON’S Men Experience concept come into being and what’s it all about? Maeson: My wife and I were on a trip to America once and we were inspired by the concept of the ‘ultimate men-experience’. Somewhere men can not just get their hair cut, but also get Menicures®, combining a manicure and pedicure, and also watch a game at the same time. Men spend a lot of time on their appearance, but forget that their hands and feet are just as important. Plus, Menicures® are great for easing things like pain during exercise. I’ve talked to Michel about running a business on numerous occasions. And because we’ve both into sport, we really click together in person. Lindsey and I told him about our idea and asked if he wanted to get in on it. 94

Michel: As soon as I heard about the concept, I was won over, and I came on board as an investor. I wanted to have a say in the concept and help make it a success together. I’ve seen a lot of places all over the world, and through my life experience I’ve developed an understanding of what men need. I was able to draw on that experience and offer a lot of input. But I also have a large network, which also comes in handy. We’ve got a football table and a games console, next to that is a sports bar with big television screens where we screen football matches and other sports. We’re talking about an experience where it’s not only about looking good, but also feeling good. And not forgetting quality, customer service and personal attention, which are paramount. I know from my father’s business just how nice it is to be part of something. That’s the feeling we’re trying to convey too. Maeson: I’m constantly training my boys and telling them how important it is to know your customer. That human side of our profession is essential. Some customers only come to have their head shaved because they just love being here. And because of all the lockdowns, a lot of people have come to realise how important what we do is, which I’m pleased about. MAESONS is so much more than a barbershop. It can look intimidating at first; it’s a big shop after all. But we make customers feel at home as soon as they walk through the door. They get a friendly hello, have a drink, and you see them

feel relaxed right away. The atmosphere is wonderful. We’re quite a big team and each of us has our jobs. But we don’t want to get too big, because of the personal touch we give that makes our customers feel like they belong here. Tell me about your Business Club... Maeson: We all love networking with other people, and we’ve even hired some of our customers to do certain things at MAESONS. Customers can also get something out of meeting each other. We have a certain type of clientele in our business; we see them as customers for life, who

often become friends themselves. This inspired us to launch the Business Club. As a member, you can get all kinds of benefits to help make things less stressful. You can pay on account, get reminders for appointments and so on. But we also run business events to bring people together. Michel: Recently we arranged a tasting of the sports bar menu, and customers could tell us what they thought of the food while getting to know each other in an informal atmosphere. Many customers find they have common ground with each other.

What do you think your biggest challenge has been? Maeson: Our biggest challenge has been bringing the Menicures® and the sports bar to the market. We see our customers as friends, and you only want your friends to have the best. That’s why we’re hoping more and more men will see the benefits of Menicures®. But with everything that’s happened with coronavirus, unfortunately we haven’t been able to do everything we’ve wanted to with the sports bar… but we will one day.

Michel: It seems that men in Utrecht still aren’t quite willing to have their hands and feet pampered. They seem to struggle with that. But in London, it’s the norm. So, we’ve got some work to do convincing people. We opened in 2019, and then COVID hit, so like many others, we haven’t had the easiest time. Fortunately, though, they now understand our concept a lot better.

MAESO NS ’

G T IP IN

We’re a fan of shaving gel! You can see what you’re doing then. With shaving foam, you never see the lines properly when you have a full beard. But with shaving gel and a warm cloth, you can take things nice and easy.

What parallels do you see between being a footballer and a barber? Both: Teamwork! Just like in sport, working as part of a team is also crucial for us! Maeson: And because we believe in pulling together as a team rather than doing your own thing, we don’t work with freelancers who just rent a chair. When I’m training the boys, I can tell who’s played sport as a team before and who hasn’t. Sport builds your character; you learn how to work together as a team. Being a barber really is like being a pro footballer – we play in the top league and you can’t score a goal without everyone playing their part. 96

Michel: It’s also like working as a football team manager. Some of your players need more support than others. You’re only as strong as your weakest link. Maeson: I want people to come not for one specific barber, but for the MAESONS brand. It’s like supporting a football club. Messi might have gone, but I’m still a Barcelona fan. Our customers are our supporters. And as far as our barbers are concerned, why can’t we ask for a transfer fee for them, just like football clubs do? We train up our barbers, which we put a lot of energy, time and passion into. It would be nice to get something in return if they move on somewhere else.

What ambitions do you have for the future? Michel: If you do something, you have to do it right. That’s why we want to make it a franchise. We had that in mind from day one, So, that’s how we’ve set it up. It’s a unique concept in the Netherlands, but it also has potential in the rest of Europe. We haven’t yet been able to fully roll out the concept because of coronavirus, but behind the scenes everything has been worked out in detail to structure it as a franchise.