AMSTERDAM IN THE SPOTLIGHTS A MSTERDAM DENIM CAPITAL B ARBERS & THE CITY T HE STORY OF AN AMSTERDAM BARBERING DYNASTY SALON INTERIOR DESIGN THE AGE OF INDIVIDUALISM
BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE
INTERVIEW WITH SHELDON EDWARDS MY RELATIONSHIP WITH MEDIA PERSONALITIES IS BASED ON TRUST
SPRING 2020 | #3 | € 12.50
THE WORLD GRINDS TO A TEMPORARY HALT THE SENSE OF SOLIDARITY AND COMRADERY HAS BECOME GREATER THAN EVER
1
MEN’S GROOMING PRODUCTS
You are interested in the GRAHAM HILL products and would like to get to know them? Contact Denis Rücker: +49-163-499 91 49
GRAHAMHILL- COSMETICS.COM
4
EDITORIAL
6
BARBER TO THE STARS Interview with Sheldon Edwards
10 15
Collection: Blow Up Hair: Salones Carlos Valiente (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca
BRAND BITE RED DEER Interview with Alfred Isaacs & Win a great prize BARBERS & DENIM SPECIAL I nterview with denim influencer & barber Morteza A msterdenim ‘the Amsterdam jeans brand’ J eans in focus
16 18 22
24
TRENDS Carlos Valiente, Alazne Gonzalez, Gemma Willock-Smith, JP macdonagh, Josh Lamonaca, Sam Wall, Luke Blom, Desmond Murray, Robert Braid, Romano Katabaloeboeng, Sid Sottung, Yvonne Kok, Christopher Byrne, Barber Birdman, Samira van der Zee, Andrei Braga
53
SALON INTERIOR DESIGN I nterview with Guy Sarlemijn Two barbers on interiors
58
PRODUCT NEWS In Shop, Grooming, Lifestyle
68
BARBERS & THE CIT Y Amsterdam
78
BARBER BABE Interview with Mihaela Stelniceanu
82
THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO… Barber events
98
COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER Do you want more clients in your barbershop?
100
53 57
ALL IN THE FAMILY The story of Amsterdam barber Wout van de Hare
Editorial Team Miranda Vlas, Marit Heemskerk, press@barbersociety.com Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.
3
The world grinds to a temporary halt The world looked very different when we began developing the content for this spring edition. Coronavirus was still far away from the Netherlands in a distant country. The past few weeks have demonstrated how rapidly the world can change. I’m writing this column at the last minute just before this edition goes to press. Here in the Netherlands, the government just announced an ‘intelligent lockdown’, which also requires hairdressers and barber shops to close if they had not already done so. The ban on events has also been extended to June 1st. This means our 5th anniversary edition of BarberSociety Live, which we’ve been preparing for many months, will not be able to go ahead. The pain of having to cancel the event pales in comparison to the tragedy of the situation and the victims of this invisible killer. Now that the barber shop is closed, it feels to me like the world has temporarily ground to a halt. But I hope that ‘temporary’ really does mean ‘temporary’. It feels as if we’ve all ended up in a bad horror movie that I’d like to fast forward as quickly
as possible. The pandemic is impacting everyone around the world, including all of us working in our outstanding sector. We’re all in this tough situation together and what touches me and gives me hope are the great initiatives being developed by both brands in our industry and among barbers themselves to support our sector. The sense of solidarity and comradery that’s always existed among barbers, has become greater than ever. We phone each other, support one another and give each other tips on how to navigate the financial challenges. The barbering community is also brimming with ideas for how we can encourage and inspire each other and stay in contact with our clients during
There’s a greater sense of solidarity than ever 4
We’re one big barber family and together we’ll get through this! these trying times. It seems like this situation has made us even more connected. It’s a time of reflection that is bringing us together like never before. Even though it seems like my world is very small right now as I am writing this in my home in Amsterdam, in reality the world is opened up through all the social channels. This connectedness transcends all borders even though I’m not allowed to physically cross borders. And through our magazine we’re also bringing the world closer. This edition focuses on Amsterdam – the city that hosts BarberSociety Live. In the Barbers & the City section, we show a selection of Amsterdam barber shops, which naturally includes my own barber shop Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers. Our Barbers & Denim lifestyle special in this edition highlights Amsterdam’s role as the denim capital of Europe, with the compelling story of Amsterdam jeans brand Amsterdenim and an interview with top barber and denim influencer Morteza Talebi. And in the ‘All in the family’ section, we’re spotlighting my own father – Wout van de Hare whose father (my grandfather) opened a barber shop in Amsterdam in 1934. If you’re thinking of spending this lockdown redecorating your barber shop, be sure to read the interview with interior
designer Guy Sarlemijn. You might also have time to work on your own online profile so you can expand your clientele when your barber shop reopens. Chris Foster provides some very useful tips on how to optimise your online profile in his column. Romanian Barber Babe Mihaela Stelniceanu emphasises the importance of education and continued personal and professional development. The online channels offer a world of possibilities for this, and new initiatives are being launched every day during this crisis. Also be sure to read the inspiring story of BarberSociety Live sponsor Red Deer and learn about all the latest products in the product news section. In a feature interview, Sheldon Edwards, whose clients include elite athletes Usain Bolt and Raheem Sterling, gives us an inside glimpse of his life as a barber to the stars. We’re also happy to showcase work from homegrown Dutch stars in the Trend pages. This includes work from Luke Blom, the Dutch winner of the American Crew All-Star Challenge 2020 and a barber on our team at Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers. I’m naturally as proud as can be of Luke’s victory! I hope this spring edition will provide you with a welcome distraction during these tough times and will be a source of
inspiration when the crisis is over and we can start getting back to normal life. This great profession will certainly bring us together again in the future. Let’s all join forces to make next year’s edition of BSL bigger, better and more inspiring than ever! And I expect the level of the participants in our battles to be higher than ever before after having a whole year to practice and perfect their creations down to the last detail! Be sure to also check out the Amsterdam barbers’ tips for hotspots in Amsterdam ahead of your visit to BSL 2021 for an extra cool weekend in Amsterdam. Because sooner or later we will once again be able to travel to our favourite cities and countries and meet up for world-class events. Once this crisis has been conquered, we’ll all work together to move forward from success to success. I wish you all good health – take care and stay healthy. We’re one big barber family and together we’ll get through this!
Marc van de Hare BarberSociety Founder Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers 5
INTERV IEW
© @double3productions
Be the change that happens’
6
BARBER TO THE STARS WITH BOTH FEET ON THE GROUND THE INSPIRING STORY OF ONE OF TODAY’S MOST SUCCESSFUL BARBERS Sheldon Edwards, age 37, is the founder of London-based HD Cutz and the personal barber of some of the world’s leading athletes. He travels the world to give star players the coveted HD look. Sheldon has built up his exclusive clientele one name at a time. He’s the go-to stylist for elite athletes including Raheem Sterling, Usain Bolt and Mousa Dembele. But while he’s recognised as the barber to the stars, he has both feet firmly on the ground. As a third-generation barber, he’s been barbering since he was ten and grew up in a barber shop in his native Jamaica. BarberSociety speaks with him about his career, star-studded client list and vision on the future of barbering.
Born into the barbering business It was a natural step for Sheldon Edwards to go into the barbering business. “I’ve been in the barbering business since I was ten years old. I grew up in a barbering family. My granddad and great granddad had two of the only barber shops in our area of Jamaica. When my granddad died, he left the business to my dad. So I’ve been stuck in a barber shop since I was about nine or ten years old,” Sheldon says with a smile. Mastering the tricks of the trade All that time spent in the barber shop meant Sheldon developed a passion for barbering at a young age. “After days and days of sitting in the salon and watching the barbers at work, I fell in love with what I was seeing and decided this is what I want to do. I learned something from every one of the barbers in the salon and perfected the process of creating my own cuts.” Sheldon even started cutting a would-be star at the tender age of ten. 7
“I started cutting Michail Antonio’s hair when I was ten,” he says. They grew up together and went to the same church. Michail Antonio has gone on to achieve great things and still turns to his friend Sheldon for the HD look.
It all comes down to trust Sheldon says the relationship with media personalities is based on trust. “You have to consider the client’s privacy. You must give them a sense of stepping away from football for a moment when they feel themselves, feel their looks.
Callum Hudson-Odoi © @double3productions
Star quality Sheldon’s list of clients includes dozens of elite athletes. How did he gain this dazzling clientele? He says it has been a gradual process based on word of mouth. It started with Radja Nainggolan who asked Sheldon to travel to Italy to cut his hair. Then Mousa Dembele asked him to give the Belgian national team the HD look at Euro 2016. During that period Sheldon became
successfully active on social media. He then did the makeover for Ethan Ampadu and cut off his locks, which went viral and racked up millions of views on his Instagram page. His star-studded clientele kept growing. The rest is history. HD Cutz has become bigger and bigger and Sheldon Edwards is now the leading barber to the stars.
8
You must create the atmosphere in which everybody is happy in terms of the music we listen to and the kind of conversation we have,” Sheldon explains. His work also has real benefits for his clients in terms of their confidence. Sheldon explains: “I’ve done a survey of my clients and found that a good haircut is very confidence building. It’s like putting on new football boots or a new kit, it doesn’t feel right if you don’t have a fresh haircut to go with it.” It’s a huge responsibility and you’ve got to have a solid relationship with the client. “It’s all about trust. I bring the new look to the table. I say: You know what, I think this will suit you. And they just take my advice and trust me with their image.” Giving stars the HD look also brings challenges. “This is a very stressful job. They don’t have much time. You must do the greatest job under the worst possible conditions. So you never have the perfect start, but you have to have the perfect finish.”
Raheem Sterling © @double3productions
I’ve been stuck in a barber shop since I was nine or ten years old
The HD look The secret to the signature HD look? “If the finishing doesn’t have a crisp look, it cannot be a unique Sheldon Edwards haircut. You have to create an effect that lasts longer than other haircuts.” Sheldon explains how he developed the technique for creating the characteristic HD defined lines. “Going back to Jamaica when I was a kid, I used to watch many great barbers and took a little bit from each of them – the fade or the shape up – and I set about making them even better. So I always find a way to make my shape up or fade stand out more than the person I am emulating.” Barbering trends and developments “I’ve seen the industry change dramatically. People used to say: I’m just a barber. Nobody put a shine on it. But now it has changed. Barbering is a career and barbers can be a role model. The industry has become so vast and hair has become a big part of everything that happens, like major sporting events, concerts and movies. If you don’t have the barber, you can’t execute these situations.” Sheldon sums up the latest trends in three words: ‘Waves, curls and colour’.
Manuel Akanji © @double3productions
Both feet on the ground Sheldon believes it’s important to keep serving his regular clients, many of whom have been with him from day one. “Even though I’m travelling all over the world, I still find time to pop into my shop four or five times a week to cut my regular clients’ hair.” He says this helps him stay grounded and lets him keep a finger on the pulse when it comes to new fashions and trends. “You have to be on top of continually changing styles and fashions as a barber. You must adapt to the current styles and be the change that happens. You have to be innovative and creative.”
A cut above What’s been the key to Sheldon’s success so far and what lies ahead? “The key to my success has been my ability to take on new challenges and to continually learn. It’s also important to be hard-working and dedicated. You can’t just turn up with the talent, these personalities have to see that they are able to trust you and that you can do their hair when it needs to be done.” And Sheldon isn’t finished yet. He’s moving full force ahead and has big plans.
“I want to be high definition in every respect. Identity is important. I’m creating an identity because I want to both open an academy and expand the number of shops. I want it to be like McDonald’s or KFC – walk into an HD Cutz anywhere in the world and you will have the same HD experience.”
9
BR AND BITE
A CLIPPER IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE BARBER’S ABILITY TO USE IT Our focus is always on the barber
10
Red Deer is sponsoring BarberSociety Live for the second consecutive year. The German brand introduced Barber Clipper No. in 2018 and recently launched its ‘little brother’ the Barber-T trimmer. A good reason for Team BarberSociety to visit Red Deer’s factory in Eiterfeld, Germany. The original company, Ondal, was established in 1880 and was a subsidiary of Wella for many years. It is now an independent company operating under the name EXONDA SALON TOOLS GmbH with Alfred Isaacs as owner and managing partner and the US company Farouk Systems as co-owner. Alfred Isaacs gives us a look behind the scenes at this iconic company.
Made in Germany Alfred Isaacs: “We view ourselves as a manufacturer of electric appliances. In addition to clippers, we still produce the original infrared heater ‘Climazon’. Until the introduction of Red Deer as our own brand, we produced on an exclusively private label basis for the cosmetics industry. We are distinctive in this respect because all the other clippers usually come from Asia, while we provide high-quality, ‘Made in Germany’ products that our commercial or wholesale clients can market under their own label. We now offer our clippers in a range of colours and models worldwide.” Quality standards “All our products must meet our stringent quality standards and
are thoroughly tested with respect to aspects including scratch resistance and the potential effect of perspiration, hair colouring and so forth on the materials. This is because clippers have to take a beating in the salons and barber shops, with each pair of clippers having to last for at least 1,000 operating hours. This equals around 2.5 years under normal use, which is a very long service life. The German quality, which we originally developed for Wella, has been improved and refined over the years. In addition to the sustainability test, we test the cutting capacity and the switch. We also subject the Red Deer clippers to intensive cable bending testing. What’s more, we offer the added certainty of being ISO certified. While our prices are many times higher than those of cheap private label products from Asia, our customers have often experienced in practice that these low-priced products usually have a very short service life. So you pay for quality and sustainability.”
Red Deer “We noted an important development several years ago: barbering was staging a real comeback. We wanted to play a role in that market. After all, our expertise is largely in the field of clippers and trimmers. What we wanted most of all was to genuinely convey a distinctively vintage, Harley Davidson feeling, and we couldn’t do that through our product offering at that time. That’s when the idea of Red Deer was born. We realised that in order to have a chance of succeeding in the barbering market, we’d have to develop our own brand. Because while we possessed the required technology, we had to make our image cooler and more rugged. The look and feel of Red Deer is unique to the brand, and is consequently a valuable property that we’re committed to maintaining and protecting. We want to tap into the popularity of barbering in traditional mixed salons that often have female staff. Many women want to use a lighter tool, so we also wanted to come up with a solution to meet this need. Our R&D department was given the task of developing a device that is both vintage and modern. This constitutes a paradox and a huge challenge. This development process took more than two years. The product we ultimately developed meets the needs of professional users who we asked to give their input throughout the development process. We recently expanded the line with a small trimmer for the more detailed contouring. But a clipper is, of course, only as good as the barber’s ability to use it.” The difference “Nearly all clippers are presented as ‘an appliance’. But through the tagline ‘wild precision for the creators of men’ we place the focus firmly on the ‘creator of 11
The Barber Clipper No1 has become a device with contrasts; a clipper that embodies both strength and style. This is because, while a powerful motor was considered important, it did have to be a motor that doesn’t vibrate too much and that is not so loud that it is unpleasant for clients when it’s used next to their ears. We use a high-tech electromotor that lasts as long as, for example, a magnet motor, but has the advantage of vibrating less and being lighter, which makes it gentler on the wrists. We obviously focussed the greatest attention on the cutting quality of the Swissprecision blade head. What’s more, you can change the blade head in five seconds without using a screwdriver. The blade head is also infinitely adjustable, and you can choose from two speeds. The Red Deer is also the only clipper with an adjustable lever for left-handed and right-handed users. For the comb attachments, we work in partnership with German company Hercules Sägemann, which is the leading expert in the field of combs. The comb attachements are made of carbon reinforced material that is stronger, more sustainable and anti-static. And last but not least, all our clippers are made by hand and we test each and every product before it is shipped.” The king of the forest “The shape is extremely important, and some clippers make me think of animals. The red deer is the king of the forest. You immediately associate the animal with tough men in rugged terrain. It’s also seen as an animal that is fast and 12
agile, just like a barber. And which animal has pride of place on the wall at virtually every barber shop? You guessed it: a deer head! So that’s also why it fits our target group to a tee.” Newcomer in a saturated market “We wanted to place the focus on the professional user and that’s why we decided to go for an extraordinary photoshoot showcasing a barber in the middle of the forest. This marketing approach lets us gain an optimally distinctive position. And we had to achieve this level of distinctiveness because we were entering a market that appeared to be more or less saturated. Clippers with cords are still the most widely sold internationally. So we had to be distinctive in this regard too. While there were curling irons with swivel cords, you didn’t see any clippers with this feature. We are the only company that has applied this technology to our Barber Clipper No.1. Through this feature we provide ultimate freedom of movement with cables measuring no less than 3.5 metres in length! That’s why it’s not actually necessary for us to present a wireless model. This is because we’ve eliminated all the disadvantages associated with a cord and you don’t have to charge the Red Deer Clipper No.1.” The new trimmer, the Barber T, is a lightweight contour trimmer with a T-blade and can be used with or without a cord. The charging holder has been designed so that it can also function as a regular holder.’ Our packaging is unique. We don’t want to present our products in a standard box with a product photo. We want to give our customers a real experience when unwrapping their purchase. I am so proud that we have succeeded in presenting a fullyfledged, high-quality brand that is appealing. The barber will also continue to be our starting point with respect to all new developments.”
WIN A RED DEER CREATOR PACK
After reading this article, you’ll no doubt want to try Red Deer’s high-quality tools! Red Deer is giving away a creator pack containing the Barber-T Trimmer and the Barber Clipper No. 1 worth € 300 and you could be the lucky winner. To take part in this competition, simply send an email stating why you would like to win this creator pack to info@barbersociety.com by 15 June 2020. Be sure to include your name and address contact details. A winner of the creator pack will be selected from the entries.
The shape of clippers sometimes evokes images of animals
men’, i.e. the barber or stylist. This is extremely important to us. The barber or stylist is a professional who sells self-confidence to consumers and needs excellent tools to do this. We step back and think from the barber’s perspective. What do they need to excel? That’s why we collaborated with as many barbers as possible during the development process in order to gain their feedback.
HOW IS THE RED DEER CLIPPER MADE FROM START TO FINISH? R&D: R&D develops the technical side of the idea. R&D determines all the technical aspects including the choice of blades, screws, motor and cord. All the components, such as the screw rotating head, are described and a drawing is made. Suppliers: Suppliers are found
for each component. Exonda does not, for example, produce its own synthetics. Warehouse: Each component is checked upon arrival at the warehouse in Eiterfeld to determine whether it corresponds with the specifications. Assembly: All the components
are combined. They can be compared to assembly kits that are ultimately transformed into clippers. The devices are soldered, screwed, oiled and packaged in this department. Transport & distribution: The clippers are shipped to customers in Europe and beyond. 13
14
DENIM
special barbers & denim special
BARBERS special barbers & denim special
SPECIAL
15
© Peter Hoogeveen
INTERV IEW
Name Morteza Talebi Occupation Barber & denim influencer Favourite jeans Levi’s vintage 501xx jeans 1947, Levi’s vintage 1915 workwear, Lee jeans and Wrangler jeans Insta @mori.nl Number of followers 32,200 Age 30
Handmade by @Pey.Artist, Sashikodenim
Morteza Talebi works as a barber at Kapsones Bussum (the Netherlands) and is an Instagram influencer in the field of denim. He shares vintage outfits on Instagram and collaborates with several denim brands. Morteza currently has 32,200 followers on Instagram. We ask him about his two passions: barbering and denim.
16
On the barbering business Morteza: “I’m from Iran and have been living in the Netherlands for six years. A while back I decided that I really wanted to become a barber because I think it’s a great profession and a lifestyle that suits me. A year ago, I got the opportunity to learn the craft at Kapsones in Bussum, where I’m still working and learning.
I love interacting with people and enjoy working with my hands. My favourite men’s haircut is the short-disconnected undercut.” On denim “I began wearing denim when I was 16 and developed a passion for the style. I started sharing outfits on Instagram as a hobby back in 2014. I love putting
How have you gained so many followers? “I began deploying Instagram seriously about five years ago. I post something every day and focus a great deal of attention on the quality of the photos and the composition of the outfits.
What do you think will be the next big trend in denim? “Since 2019/2020, we’ve seen the styles of the 1960s and 1970s make a comeback at both Levi’s and Wrangler, and I think that will now shift to the styles of the 1980s and 1990s. But everything goes in cycles, which is actually always the case when it comes to fashion.” Where do you see yourself in the future? “While I’ll always continue to ‘influence’, my ultimate goal is to open my own barber shop.”
special barbers & denim special
It’s a lot of hard work, but it does fortunately ensure that I have large numbers of Instagram followers. Instagram is a huge network and as a result I’ve come to the attention of denim brands and collaborate with them. In addition to Instagram, I’m in contact with designers from Spain and the UK who I meet at different conferences.”
special barbers & denim special
© Peter Hoogeveen together outfits and sharing them with people. Vintage Western style is my favourite, and it never fails to inspire me, no matter what! My maxim is: the older the better and more authentic. I’m a huge fan of Levi’s Vintage Collection. It’s fantastic and their workwear fits me to a tee! I always wear jeans, also when I’m working in the barber shop. I mix different kinds of styles such as Japan style and American style. When it comes to jeans, the quality and thickness of the fabric is important to me because I want to be able to wash and wear the jeans frequently without them losing their shape.”
17
INTERVIEW WITH EWOUT KEY RAMEIJER
AMSTERDAM DENIM CITY
INTERV IEW
18
From left to right: Stijn Van Dalen (Dan August), Ewout Key Rameijer, Douwe Bob during the opening of the Amsterdenim store on the Dam (Dam 8, next to Naked Espresso)
Amsterdam is recognised internationally as the denim capital. The city is the birthplace of top brands including G-Star, Kings of Indigo and Amsterdams Blauw by Scotch & Soda. British brand Denham also began in Amsterdam and denim labels from the UK and USA, such as Pepe Jeans, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, have their head offices in the Dutch capital as well. What’s more, Amsterdam boasts the world’s first Jeans School, hosts a range of denim-related events and is home to the unique House of Denim: a platform for craftsmanship and innovation in the denim industry. Amsterdam’s infrastructure and strategic location and the culture and mindset of the city’s inhabitants help secure the city’s status as denim capital. Jeans continue to be popular among large groups of consumers and many barbers see denim as a standard part of their daily working attire. Amsterdenim, ‘the Amsterdam jeans brand’, collaborates with barbers and well-known Amsterdam-based performing artists such as André Hazes junior and Douwe Bob to promote their denim label. Amsterdenim operates from a former garage in Amsterdam North with a crew of between 5 and 10 members of staff. Ewout Key Rameijer (45), General Director of Amsterdenim, tells us the story of his brand and in doing so gives us a unique view of the history of the city he loves.
special barbers & denim special special barbers & denim special
“What’s the story behind Amsterdenim? Ben Fokkema, the founder of Amsterdenim who has worked in fashion for many years, is dyslectic. The story is that he misread the famous ‘I Amsterdam’ sign as ‘Amsterdenim’. He officially launched the brand in 2014, so Amsterdenim celebrated its fifth anniversary in 2019. Ben asked me a few years ago if I’d like to take responsibility for marketing and positioning the
brand. I saw this as a new beginning of Amsterdenim. Ben’s vision when he started was: ‘I want to fill the whole wardrobe.’ I changed that and made a clear choice for denim and Amsterdam. After all, those two words are already incorporated into our brand name, so we’ve got to make sure we are both. It made perfect sense to me. Amsterdam is, as a brand, extremely popular internationally. Amsterdam stands for freedom, excitement and anything but boring. Denim also evokes an array of associations. Think back to the early days of denim when icons like Marlon Brando and James Dean made it popular. And it’s precisely that rebellious nature that Amsterdam and denim share in common. Amsterdam had the world’s first coffee shop selling cannabis and the world’s first gay marriage. It’s very open-minded and progressive, and a city with a rich culture. Denim is rough and rugged, originally made for mine workers and cowboys. Via the cowboys on horses, denim now
Photo credits © Martin Altena, www.nightcity.nl
Making choices Ewout gained many years of experience in fashion marketing and sales, primarily for jeans and sportswear brands. He has, above all, learned that it’s imperative to be in a good niche and to be best-in-class in the given market. He says: “You’ve got to make choices and decide whether you want to turn left or right, do one thing or the other - otherwise you end up with nothing. Once you’ve defined a distinctive mission that’s clear to everyone, consumers can consciously choose your brand.”
Logo en Gouden Bocht
Amsterdam is very open-minded and progressive and has a rich culture
19
Details on jeans from barber from Barbershop Jordaan © Martin Altena, www.nightcity.nl
stands for the urban cowboys in their cars or airplanes or on their motorcycles. It’s all about freedom and independence, which is exactly what Amsterdam embodies. We express all these values in their broadest sense through Amsterdenim. We do this through our marketing activities, the ambassadors with whom we work and the Amsterdam elements that are reflected in our logo and our denim.” The NAP in your trouser leg “Many of the details in our clothes have links to Amsterdam. For example, the brown sails historically used by Amsterdam skippers are used for the inner pockets of our jackets. ‘The Golden Bend’ – the most prestigious section of the Herengracht canal in Amsterdam – is stitched onto the rear pocket using the golden ratio. The golden ratio is a reference to the Dutch Golden Age, which means you’ve actually got a map of Amsterdam on your rear end. The rivets and the fly feature the three Saint Andrew’s crosses from the Amsterdam Coat of Arms. Some of our jeans even include the Normaal Amsterdams Peil (NAP) or Amsterdam Ordnance Datum. When you turn the trouser leg inside out, you see the stripes of the gauging rod on the inside seam. The NAP is the European standard for water levels. Water is synonymous with the Netherlands and Amsterdam. Water connects people, the Amsterdam canals connect the city and historically enabled trade. Trade has ensured that different cultures come into contact with each other. We tap into that that heritage through our brand. Several Amsterdam elements are also united in our logo. References to the Amsterdam city plan, the ship sails, the pitched roofs of
Amsterdam houses, the bridges, the canals, the facets of a diamond and all the letters in the name Amsterdenim are incorporated into it.” Flagship store Amsterdenim’s flagship store was opened on Dam Square in the very heart of Amsterdam in 2019. The company ended up accidentally at this location thanks to the collaboration with Naked Espresso, which has been voted Amsterdam’s best espresso bar. Being able to experience the jean brand’s unique atmosphere in the centre point of the city is clearly as good as it gets. Ewout smiles as he recalls the flagship store opening: “The opening was amazing. We staged a guerrilla denim show right in front of our door in the middle of Dam Square. We had live music and barbers were on hand to give men haircuts.” Dutch names Ewout: “I’m very proud of our styles – different fits with quintessentially Dutch names.
Our image and the fit really distinguish us from other jeans brands. The current trend is a less tight-fitting jean, so jeans are becoming wider. We introduced the Klaas in 2016; it’s a loose fit. We also have the Rembrandt, which is our showpiece – it’s a regular straight fit. This is the way jeans were intended to be: with a straight leg. The Johan is in between, with a tapered slim fit. Last but not least, we have the Jan, which is a tapered fit. I personally prefer to wear the Johan and the Rembrandt. In addition to the wider fit, we’re seeing a revival of the eighties look and we’ll undoubtedly also see a nineties revival with funky fades. After all, everything comes back around in the world of fashion.” Buy less, buy better “What’s equally important to us is that we operate as sustainably as possible. Sustainability means you aim to buy a great pair of jeans that you can wear for a couple of years. Jeans, like a good coat, should last for a long
There’s nothing strange about wearing the same jeans every day 20
special barbers & denim special
Future Ewout on the future: “It’s sink or swim. We’re fortunately growing at a strong pace, but we also must grow in order to keep doing what we believe in. In addition to a hundred stores that buy our collection, we foresee further expansion being achieved more via the large online platforms and our own web shop. We’re on the right track, but we’re not there yet. There is a high level of competition. My mission is to become a healthy company with a presence in at least ten countries worldwide and to create sufficient scale in order to continue working in the sustainable manner we envision.” We now know in any case where to buy a real piece of Amsterdam stitched into a great-looking and unique pair of jeans! More information www.amsterdenim.com Flagship store: Dam 8, Amsterdam
special barbers & denim special
Denim dip or denim boom? “While denim has gone mainstream, it is currently experiencing a dip. This was spurred by the Kardashians who started wearing tight sport leggings as streetwear just like men wear jogging pants. So you now see a lot of non-denim
outfits in the streetscape. But I believe another denim boom is on the way because during times of crisis everybody reaches back to the security of the past. And jeans have historically dominated the streetscape.”
Photo credits © Martin Altena, www.nightcity.nl
Golden triangle When asked about the process of designing their collection, Ewout says: “Designing a collection is something we do collectively as a team. We naturally bring a great deal of experience to the table, but our interns from the Jeans Academy also have fresh ideas. We also listen to our suppliers and customers. We use the three directions as a golden triangle. The basis is Dam Square, which is the heart of Amsterdam, that stands for the authentic denim items. To the left we have Amsterdam North, which is more progressive, fashionable, off the wall, not necessarily commercial – you could compare it to the Dutch Green Party (GroenLinks). And in the other direction we have Amsterdam South, which is conservative, commercial, like the Dutch centre-right VVD party. This helps us to categorise and to convey a clear story to our customers.”
In the chair Mark Schadenberg - barber Four Brothers © Martin Altena, www.nightcity.nl
time. Washing your jeans less frequently is also sustainable. There’s nothing strange about wearing the same jeans every day. We naturally also have jeans made of recycled cotton, but the most sustainable option of all is a heavy, unwashed, raw jeans. In our collection, they are the ‘raw rigid’ jeans. But it isn’t as comfortable to wear as other fabrics that are lighter or contain stretch. A positive development that contributes to sustainability is, for example, the multifunction cross-over jacket that can be worn during multiple seasons. This means you don’t also buy a summer or winter jacket. My motto is: Buy less, buy better.”
21
More information www.amsterdenim.com
Wrangler 11 MWZ Men’s Western Zipper This 11oz western slim-fit jeans from the Wrangler ICONS collection, is the definitive men’s cowboy cut denim in a clean indigo colourway. Inspired by Wrangler’s original cowboy cut from 1947, the Men’s Western Zipper is streamlined for a modern style, but with the same slim profile, the same higher rise and the original tobacco stitching, it’s just as any mid-century rodeo star would remember it. Finish: a solid indigo wash. More information www.wrangler.com
22
- Steven Tyler
The Albert true tapered fit combines the flexibility of a loose fit with the iconic style of a tapered leg. Finish: 5 Year Wash, Mid-rise.
BLUE IS THE CLOSEST COLOR TO TRUTH
Amsterdenim Albert
More information www.g-star.com
The iconic 501® fit is re-energized, through the lens of streetwear style, with the throwback-inspired 501® ‘93 Straight for men. This fit is an old favorite worn by a bevy of ‘90s icons, plus many who are at the center of culture today. The 501® ‘93 is the most leading straight fit for the trend savvy. Finish: BLEU EYES BABY More information www.levi.com
Denham Crop CIS The CROP CIS is cut from DENHAM’s signature 12 1/2oz, blue and white rigid selvedge denim with a tinted weft. Made by CANDIANI, one of the world’s leading sustainable denim mills, renowned for its premium fabrics and responsible production.
special barbers & denim special
This jeans has a skinny fit and is partly made from recycled and renewable raw materials. The pants are made of indigo denim, a fabric with stretch and good shape retention. The Revend is the heightened version of a classic 5-pocket jean. Finish: washed look.
Levi’s 501® ‘93 Straight Jeans
special barbers & denim special
G-star RAW Revend skinny
More information www.denhamthejeanmaker.com
23
CARLOS VALIENTE
24
Collection: Blow Up Hair: Salones Carlos Valiente (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Visori Fashionart MUA: Nacho Sanz Products: Revlon Professional & American Crew @saloncarlosvaliente
SPAIN
25
Collection: Blow Up Hair: Salones Carlos Valiente (ES) Photography: Esteban Roca Styling: Visori Fashionart MUA: Nacho Sanz Products: Revlon Professional & American Crew @saloncarlosvaliente
ALAZNE GONZALEZ
FOR PELUQUERIA JOSE URRUTIA
26
Collection: Filhos de Terra Hair: Alazne Gonzalez for Peluqueria Jose Urrutia (ES) Hair assistants: Karmen Ramírez, Veronica Calpa, Belén Naranjo Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia Styling: Alazne Gonzalez MUA: Equipo Peluquería Jose Urrutia Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia
SPAIN
27
Collection: Filhos de Terra Hair: Alazne Gonzalez for Peluqueria Jose Urrutia (ES) Hair assistants: Karmen Ramírez, Veronica Calpa, Belén Naranjo Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia Styling: Alazne Gonzalez MUA: Equipo Peluquería Jose Urrutia Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia
ALAZNE GONZALEZ
FOR PELUQUERIA JOSE URRUTIA
28
Collection: Filhos de Terra Hair: Alazne Gonzalez for Peluqueria Jose Urrutia (ES) Hair assistants: Karmen Ramírez, Veronica Calpa, Belén Naranjo Photography: Jose Urrutia Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia Styling: Alazne Gonzalez MUA: Equipo Peluquería Jose Urrutia Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia
SPAIN
Collection: Seas A-Mach Hair: Gemma Willock-Smith, JP macdonagh (UK) Photography: Paul Montgomery Model: @itsmejp_ @gws_barber, @jpdoeshair, @frequencybarber
GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH JP MACDONAGH
UNITED KINGOM
29
JOSH LAMONACA
30
Hair: Josh Lamonaca (UK) Photography: Jordan Doyle Model: Louis Alexander Tickel @joshlamonaca @menspiresalon @menspireacademy
UNITED KINGDOM
Hair: Sam Wall (UK) Photography: Marie Harkness Model: TTM Management Location: Hidden Heights Creative Studio @mrsamwall
SAM WALL
UNITED KINGDOM
31
LUKE BLOM
32
AMERICAN CREW ALL STAR FINALIST
Hair: Luke Blom (NL) Photography: Niels Ewoldt & Marc van de Hare Make-up: Teunie Praamstra Model: Finn Cramer Products: American Crew @barber.lukeb @vandehareamsterdambarbers
THE NETHERLANDS
Collection: HYBRID Hair & Photography: Desmond Murray (UK) Make-Up: Ellen Bridger Images: FPA @desmondmurray
DESMOND MURRAY
UNITED KINGDOM
33
DESMOND MURRAY
34
Collection: HYBRID Hair & Photography: Desmond Murray (UK) Make-Up: Ellen Bridger Images: FPA @desmondmurray
UNITED KINGDOM
35
Collection: HYBRID Hair & Photography: Desmond Murray (UK) Make-Up: Ellen Bridger Images: FPA @desmondmurray
ROBERT BRAID
36
Collection: Project X Hair: Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @r.braid @braidbarbers
UNITED KINGDOM
37
Collection: Project X Hair: Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @r.braid @braidbarbers
ROBERT BRAID
38
Collection: Project X Hair: Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @r.braid @braidbarbers
UNITED KINGDOM
Collection: Project X Hair: Robert Braid (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes @r.braid @braidbarbers
ROMANO KATABALOEBOENG
THE NETHERLANDS
COIFFURE AWARD 2020 NOMINEE
39
ROMANO KATABALOEBOENG
COIFFURE AWARD 2020 NOMINEE
40
Hair: Romano Katabaloeboeng (NL) Photography: Ivo de Kok MUA: Natasja Diks Styling: Felicia Katabaloeboeng @romanocut @barber.ro
THE NETHERLANDS
41
Hair: Romano Katabaloeboeng (NL) Photography: Ivo de Kok MUA: Natasja Diks Styling: Felicia Katabaloeboeng @romanocut @barber.ro
SID SOTTUNG
42
Collection: Moscow Buffalo Hair: Sid Sottung (UK) Support Team: Salon Kult Photography: Julia Shok MUA: Anna Kuran Sponsors: Redken @sidsottunghair
UNITED KINGDOM
43
Collection: Moscow Buffalo Hair: Sid Sottung (UK) Support Team: Salon Kult Photography: Julia Shok MUA: Anna Kuran Sponsors: Redken @sidsottunghair
YVONNE KOK
COIFFURE AWARD 2020 NOMINEE
44
Collection: Finesse Hair: Yvonne Kok Hair assistant: Jantine v Luttikhuizen Photography: Richard Monsieur Styling: Annet Veerbeek Make-up: Debora Peek @yvonnekokbarbershopmrhandsome
THE NETHERLANDS
45
Collection: Finesse Hair: Yvonne Kok Hair assistant: Jantine v Luttikhuizen Photography: Richard Monsieur Styling: Annet Veerbeek Make-up: Debora Peek @yvonnekokbarbershopmrhandsome
CHRISTOPHER BYRNE
46
Hair and styling: Christopher Byrne (AU) Photography: Jarred Stedman Make-up: Chereine Waddell @lalatopha @sloanssalons
AUSTRALIA
47
Hair and styling: Christopher Byrne (AU) Photography: Jarred Stedman Make-up: Chereine Waddell @lalatopha @sloanssalons
CHRISTOPHER BYRNE
48
Hair and styling: Christopher Byrne (AU) Photography: Jarred Stedman Make-up: Chereine Waddell @lalatopha @sloanssalons
AUSTRALIA
49
Hair and styling: Christopher Byrne (AU) Photography: Jarred Stedman Make-up: Chereine Waddell @lalatopha @sloanssalons
BARBER BIRDMAN
50
Concept: Barber Birdman Hair: Barber Birdman (NL) Photography: Dennis van Akkeren Styling: Xandra Brood Make-up: Lianne Baltes Model Agency: Tutti Models @barberbirdman @dutchbarbergirl
THE NETHERLANDS
Concept: Barber Birdman Hair: Samira van der Zee (NL) Photography: Dennis van Akkeren Styling: Xandra Brood Make-up: Lianne Baltes Model Agency: Tutti Models @dutchbarbergirl @barberbirdman
SAMIRA VAN DER ZEE
THE NETHERLANDS
51
ANDREI BRAGA
52
Hair & photography: Andrei Braga (RO) @andrei_braga_hairdresser
ROMANIA
S A LO N I N T E R IO R D E S IG N
INTERVIEW WITH GUY SARLEMIJN
THE AGE OF INDIVIDUALISM Guy Sarlemijn is the founder of Guy Sarlemijn Design. It has been a key player in the field of salon furnishings and interiors in the Benelux for more than 25 years. Guy Sarlemijn Design offers both turn-key refurbishment solutions and individual pieces of furniture in a range of price categories. The rising popularity of barber shops has also caught Guy’s attention. We speak with him about his vision and plans for the future.
53
I always compare a salon to a boat because it also has limited space in which everything must be built-in and fit together perfectly In his DNA “My father had one of the first hairdressing supplies wholesalers in the Netherlands. He also did a lot of business in the field of salon interiors, including selling used interiors. Back then the trade in second-hand interiors made up a big part of our business. That’s how I got into the business. I grew the interiors arm of the business into a leading company in the beauty sector. Alongside the trade in interiors, at a certain point I began creating designs and providing complete refurbishments for clients.”
expensively. Today I notice a real trend of people mixing and matching, which dovetails with what’s happening in the world of fashion. It’s super hip to combine a t-shirt from H&M with an expensive designer bag and jeans. The same goes for interiors. Not everything has to be expensive. These days people want their individual style to shine through in interiors. So not everything has to be the same. This means you now see the same individualism in barber shop and salon interiors that’s been prevalent in the world of fashion
routing and layout and our finishing is top quality. Our mission is to deliver creative and timeless projects. We think beyond just installing attractive furniture units. I don’t focus my attention on the actual furniture units until the last phase of the process. The first thing I concentrate on is developing a good lighting plan and ensuring good acoustics. The acoustics are very important because there’s always a lot of hair-drying and talking going on in salons and it can be annoying for customers if the sound level is too high. This is, however, a recent development. Noise seems to annoy everybody these days, while it didn’t seem to bother anyone in the past. Our designs often include separated spaces, such as a separate washing station or a barber corner in a hair salon. Because if you, for example, have a separate men’s section, it means you play different music in that section and there’s a men’s bar with its own selection of drinks. Because at the end of the day it’s all about the total experience. The routing is also key; everything must be given its proper place. It’s important not to use extra square metres if it isn’t necessary. This is our forte and one of the main ways we save our clients costs. After all, you always have to pay for each and every additional square all year long. We don’t focus on the furnishings before we’ve reached the end of the process when the plan is in place. We approach a project in the same way as an architectural firm would.”
Mix & match “While the second-hand market has now died out, used salon furniture used to be in high demand. This was partially because interiors used to be much more expensive in relative terms and consequently had to have a much longer service life. Prices have since fallen because these items can now be manufactured much less 54
for several years. I applaud this development. First, because it means I’m more challenged to apply my creativity and secondly because it leads to greater diversity.” Distinctive “Our many years of experience mean we’re qualified to provide our clients with optimum advice. We’re exceptionally strong in
The same approach “The look and feel of a barber shop are usually more masculine than a regular hair salon. You also must allow for shaving treatments because they mean you need a separate sink with a swivel arm instead of a stand-alone washing unit. These are the standard things we must consider when designing a barber shop. And the waiting rooms are usually
different than those found in a regular salon. We frequently include a small bar with a few bar stools or comfortable leather chairs if there is enough room. But apart from that, we use the same approach for barber shops as we do for all other salon interiors. We enjoy collaborating with clients and ask clients to bring a mood board to the intake meeting. This mood board should reveal the desired style. Once I’ve got the mood board and a blueprint of the building, I can get started. I then provide the client with a design in which each square metre is fully utilised and that includes excellent clear routing and encompasses all functions and facilities. We also make a proposal for colours and
materials, but the client is always free to make a different choice. The greatest challenge is to create as many places as possible in the smallest space possible. Barber shops generally want to give their clients greater tranquillity and privacy than is the case at women’s hairdressing salons. I always pay close attention to the details and aim to conceal all the stuff you normally see in a salon. I always compare a salon to a boat because boats also have limited space in which everything must be built-in and fit together perfectly.” Barber shops “I’ve actually always created separate men’s spaces within
salons. We have great ways to do this, such as a dividing wall made of sticks, metal curtains or a steel sliding door. I also had clients who only cut men’s hair. But since the hipsters and metro men have hit the scene, men-only salons have become increasingly popular. At a certain point we noticed that we were receiving more and more requests for barber shops. We recently began working with the Australian brand Comfortel that features a fantastic collection of men’s barber chairs. The furniture looks great but is also very affordable. We also have sleek multifunctional trolleys that include electricity outlets and even phone chargers. This all but eliminates the need
55
for cords. You could say it’s a kind of buddy that contains everything you need, also the products that are used. Plus if each barber has his own trolley, you will never again get in each other’s way. What’s more, this trolley is perfect for freelancers too because it’s lockable.” Do it yourself “We’re seeing more and more clients wanting to roll up their sleeves and do some of the work themselves. They do their own building work and painting and we only provide the furniture. We particularly notice this development among barbers. The charm of these kinds of interiors lies specifically in the fact that they often look like a sort of antique shop showcasing an eclectic collection of objects. These interiors are consequently a mix of items the client has collected and pieces of furniture, such as work units and chairs, that we can provide. But we actually never furnish a complete barber shop.” Current trends “We see that the men’s segment is growing and that more and more 56
salons are capitalising on this trend. Just as in the world of fashion, interior styles range from sporty and casual to chic. Individualism is becoming increasingly important, but a barber shop must first and foremost be a place with a masculine image where clients feel comfortable. Having a barber corner in a regular salon is another hot trend at the moment. We’re also seeing growing numbers of female barbers. This will result in a growing demand for smaller barber’s chairs because large barber chairs are an ergonomic nightmare for petit women and make it impossible for them to do their work properly. A distinctive quality of Guy Sarlemijn Design is that we also consider the employees who will be working with the furnishings and always ask about the specific needs of the people who will be using the furniture every day. Sustainability is also a theme that’s here to stay within the context of responsible enterprise. Salons and barbershops do their part for sustainability by separating
waste and using water with filter systems, air purification systems and lighting plans (LED lamps) and by using with biodegradable products.” Future of the barber shop “The barbering profession is a craft with its own distinctive culture. It has been around for centuries and will never be lost. The success of Schorem in Rotterdam has obviously contributed to the return of the barber shop. They’ve provided a massive impetus for the craft and they reintroduced the retro-style of the 1950s and 1960s. While there will certainly be barber shop owners who will continue to love this style, I think we’ll see more young barber shop owners arrive on the scene who will develop their own style and identity. The barbering profession, the craft and men’s grooming have become an integral part of society. The figures show that this market still has huge growth potential.” More information www.guysarlemijn.com
something they don’t find comfortable. I’m considering using a black-and-white colour scheme for my barber shop.
MIHAELA STELNICEANU (Bucharest, Romania)
“The interior of a barber shop is very important. It is, after all, what makes the first impression. While my clients mainly come for my qualities as a barber and the level of service I provide, the barber shop interior also plays an important role. When I open my own barber shop,
I want to create something new and modern. Barber shops with a more vintage, old-school look and feel give me the feeling that the barbers and other staff have to wear outfits that suit the setting. I want the barbers to feel comfortable wearing their own clothes in their own style and would never ask them to wear
Lighting is so important in a barber shop interior because it can create the right atmosphere for both the clients and the barbers. The barbers must be able to do their work properly with the right lighting. Chairs are also crucially important. Clients must stay in the chair for quite a while, so it’s got to be comfortable. For me, comfort is even more important than how the chair looks. I also pay attention to the music; it shouldn’t be too loud and absolutely mustn’t be party music. The music must be aligned to the clients in your shop. Clients must feel at ease and music can help put them in the right mood. Just like offering a soft drink or cup of coffee helps create a friendly atmosphere.”
the 1950s. When It comes to the interior, it’s all about making sure it feels right to you personally.
NICK EIMERS
Haarbarbaar (Amsterdam, The Netherlands) “I conceived and designed the interior of the barber shop myself. When I began thinking about the interior of my barber shop, I discovered that what I found most important is that it has a soul. How do you know when
something has a soul? You just feel it. You can have a sleek shop with all sorts of new stuff, but if it doesn’t have a soul, you can just tell. The interior is a mix of different styles, with objects dating from the 1920s through
We often head out in search of inspiration and new finds for the shop. Sometimes you come across something when you’re on the go and sometimes we drive a van through Belgium or other neighbouring countries. We have authentic chairs and cash registers from the 1950s in the shop. The floor in the barber shop comes from an 18th century French monastery. Some of the tiles are slightly damaged, but that simply shows that they’ve been lived on and makes them even more beauty. The furniture in the barber shop has been made by Dutch furniture makers. I believe it’s important to support local craftsmanship here in the Netherlands.” 57
IN SHOP
GUY SARLEMIJN DESIGN: COMFORTEL MOVA TROLLEY This chic simplicity Mova trolley is highly functional and is designed for salons and developed with hair stylists. It’s a sleek, personal mobile work assistant and it’s got generous storage. Hubless castors makes it easy to move around the salon and it is equipped with removable heat proof mats tailored to fit your hair tools. This unique trolley allows you to
operate your electrical tools from the back of trolley. With only one electrical cord plugged into the wall that controls the power, multiple tools can be used (behind the chair) and no longer at the wall. Including USB outlets. More information www.guysarlemijn.com
1O1BARBERS SHAVING SET The high-quality 5-piece shaving set from 1o1BARBERS has all the utensils you need for classic wet shaving with a straight razor: a black, foldable razor with disposable blades for Single Edge Blades, a professional shaving brush with synthetic bristles, an enamel shaving bowl (diameter: 12 cm), a small black shaving towel (40 cm x 20 cm) and 100 Euromax Single Edge razor blades made of Japanese steel. More information www.themanhimself.de
NEW NEOCAPE BLACK PINSTRIPE GOWN Because black is never out of style, Neocape has added a new Black Pinstripe addition to its range of waterresistant hair-dressing gowns. The cutting collar of the gowns effectively prevents hair and liquids from seeping down a client’s neck and onto their clothes. The Black Pinstripe gowns use the same heavier Teflon coated material found in the White Pinstripe Neocape. The Neocape is now available in 4 colour ways: white, white pinstripe, black and black pinstripe. More information www.neocape.co.uk 58
The Barber-T Trimmer is the detail-loving sidekick for Red Deer’s Barber Clipper No.1 – a machine for razor-sharp contours, spotless details and the final touch. The T-Blade perfectly balances sharpness and cutting safety, while giving an extra advantage in the difficult skin areas of the ear, neck and throat. It’s also super light, quiet and low in vibration. Combine this with the unique cutting angle and you’ve got perfect and comfortable handling all day long.
IN SHOP
RED DEER BARBER T-TRIMMER
Lost in details? Take the shortcut: Wild trimming precision.
The machine has the following advantages: 36mm Precision T-blade: Carbon steel with chrome finish Close cut 0,3mm: Close-to-shave & highly precise Safe handling: Perfect balance between sharpness & cutting safety Low vibration: Quiet, comfortable operation that is easy on joints & muscles Battery power: < 80 min quick charge battery Fast charge: Back to work fast – or immediately, when cable-operated Lightweight handling: Low weight for all-day every day comfort Easy details: Precision & freedom of movement on the most difficult skin areas More information @reddeerno.1 www.red-deer.de/eng
59
IN SHOP
NEW ANDIS MASTER CORDLESS The classic performance you expect from the MasterÂŽ, but now with wireless freedom and convenience! The Master Cordless has an extremely powerful, fast rotation motor and is equipped with a constant speed technology; dragging or blocking is therefore a thing of the past. The lithium-ion battery gives you more than 90 minutes of non-stop working time, a LED light allows you to visualise the battery level and a strong lightweight aluminium housing guarantees years of intensive use. More information www.andis.com
Sleek, lightweight and powerful are the characteristics of the FAB hairdryer. The ionic function banishes static, closes hair cuticles, helps keep moisture in the hair, reduces frizz, and improve shine. Due to the design of the specialized motor and the new formulated plastic, it wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t break if accidentally dropped on the hardest of surfaces. More information www.fabhairandbeauty.com
FAB IONIC FUNCTION DROP PROOF HAIRDRYER 60
BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS FOIL SHAVER GOLD FXFS2GE The professional gold shaver has been designed to achieve flawless trims and shades, becoming the perfect tools for extra-close shaves, cleaning hairline and net results. Its ultra-thin floating foil system delivers a safe, close shave without irritating the skin. It is comfortable to use thanks to its perfectly balanced design. More information www.babylisspro.eu
IN SHOP
NEW MOSER GENIO PRO FADING EDITION The Moser Genio Pro Fading Edition has an innovative cutting blade with an extremely flat bottom blade angle, which is very suitable for fading. Thanks to the ultra-detailed integrated adjustment option from 0.5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2 millimeters, visible on the blade, creation of masterful fades and super-precise short-style transitions can be created easily. With a powerful engine, constant cutting power, ergonomic design and first-class quality. In addition to the outstanding cutting performance, the high-performance machine allows endless cordless operation due to an ingenious battery replacement system. The two replacement batteries are equipped with the latest Lithium-ion technology, each with a running time of up to 100 minutes. Recharged within 80 minutes thanks to the fast-charge function. Battery empty? Replace it within 3 seconds for a full battery and work immediately again. More information www.wahl.com 61
GROOMING 62
1922 BY J.M. KEUNE STYLING ESSENTIALS
Matte Measure is a molding cream with a matte finish and medium, pliable hold that doesn’t harden – so hair is easy to restyle. Tinted Dust volume powder comes with a precision nozzle, to pump the powder directly into the roots of hair for more volume. The powder’s light brown coloration also helps hair look thicker. Tough Texture is a spray which contains Creatine, to help keep hair strong. It’s especially handy when working with fine hair, to build texture.
GROOMING
1922 by J.M. Keune has expanded its men’s hair care and grooming label with three new styling products, formulated to create today’s trending hairstyles. “This is a unique time in men’s hairstyling,” said Tom Chapman, Keune Global Barber Director. “Guys are feeling free to do anything they want with their hair – and why not? We’re seeing variations on iconic indie rocker bangs. Textured long and short hair, as grunge styles come back into the picture. And classic rockabilly inspired quiffs. All brought into the modern day with Keune’s new hairstyling essentials.” More information www.1922.keune.com
63
GROOMING
TABAC ORIGINAL Follow a 4-step shaving ritual with the perfectly coordinated care and fragrance products from Tabac Original. The Tabac Original BEARD SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER cleans and cares for facial hair from moustaches to full beards (Pre Shave), while the SHAVING CREAM allows the blade to glide beautifully during wet shaving (Shave). The BEARD AND SHAVING OIL leaves your beard smooth and nourished for a well-groomed beard sensation (Styling). It also serves as a protective barrier when shaving (Shave). The AFTER SHAVE LOTION provides a tingling finish to every shave. The after shave vitalises, cools and refreshes to soothe menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin after shaving (After Shave). The BEARD WAX gives the finishing touch (Styling). It makes your beard hair supple and easy to comb. More information www.tabac-original.com
64
This strong hold charcoal paste gives texture, body and longlasting hold. Work a moderate amount between the hands then apply by massaging through damp or dry hair.
GROOMING
DEPOT NO. 312 CHARCOAL PASTE
More information www.depotmaletools.com
NINE FRAGRANCE
AMERICAN CREWÂŽ This first scent from a range of American Crew fragrances is a masculine, sensual fragrance with a classic feeling. American Crew Nine Fragrance consists of a slight apple aroma for balance, coriander and cloves for spice and musk and amber for woody scent. The result is an intoxicating and irresistible scent. More fragrances and information www.americancrew.com
65
GROOMING
Fibergum is a non-greasy, matte, flexible styling that allows the hair to be modeled all day long. Fiber-like particles thicken, define texture and increases fullness to hair. More information www.hunter1114.com
HUNTER1114 FIBERGUM
GĂ&#x2DC;LDS BEARD CONTROL Beard Control gives maximum control over a beard, is very easy to use and smells massive. The secret of Beard Control lies in the fact that ingredients are used that become firm with air contact and gently line up even the unruliest shaggy without the beard losing its smoothness. More information www.goelds.de
66
The stonger than steel bracelets of Pig & Hen are handmade in Amsterdam and carry on the Dutch legacy by using authentic ship rope. Every bracelet has its own unique strength and can be worn 24/7. Pig & Hen is proud of their roots and created a bracelet with the symbol of Amsterdam called the Coat of Arms. Colored with a strong black and red, with three crosses standing firmly in the middle. Each cross representing a core value of Amsterdam: valiant, steadfast and compassionate.
LIFESTYLE
PIG & HEN COA SHARP SIMON BLACK-BLACK
AMSTERDENIM VEST DENNIS
More information www.pigandhen.co.uk
Suitable for every occasion, this denim vest worn by barber @m_j_davari is a must-have for every closet. The inside of the vest has the ‘denim capital of the world’ weapon which refers to Amsterdam being the leading example of denim creation, style and design. More information www.amsterdenim.com
WISEGUY AMSTERDENIM SUSPENDERS Wiseguy Suspenders are hand crafted using rugged new and up-cycled quality materials such as canvas, vintage military tents etc. In cooperation with Amsterdenim, ‘The Amsterdam Jeans Brand’, a Wiseguy Amsterdenim collection is created. The launch collection consists of three denim suspenders and carries both logos on the nubuck back panel. The unique Amsterdenim logo reflects typical Amsterdam elements. More information www.wiseguySuspenders.com 67
68 68
The Amsterdam-based BarberSociety team regularly visits cities in different countries to gain inspiration. But for this edition we’ve visited barber shops in Amsterdam, so it was a home match for us this time. We’ve asked Amsterdam barbers to share with us their top hotspots that you shouldn’t miss when visiting beautiful Amsterdam! We’re obviously also providing an inside view of BarberSociety’s founder Marc van de Hare’s barber shop and asked him, as a born-and-bred Amsterdammer, to give us the inside scoop on the places to be in this vibrant city. 69
Cut Throat Barber Brunch and Bar
Beursplein 5 1012 JW Amsterdam +31 (0)6 25 34 37 69 www.cutthroatbarber.nl Cut Throat Barber is one of Amsterdam’s largest barber shops with nine chairs. It’s unique location in the former Beurs van Berlage stock exchange building dating from 1903 makes it the perfect setting for a great haircut. The original arches in the ceiling and the brick walls have been preserved and the ‘London-look’ interior has been given a tropical twist. Cut Throat Barber is the world’s first barber shop to have both a restaurant and a cocktail bar. The restaurant serves Jamaican cuisine, with the menu featuring an array of delicious dishes. James , co-owner, highly recommends the jerk chicken and the chicken waffles. The barber shop in the Amsterdam 70
city centre also boasts a large terrace in the summer where you can catch some rays while sipping on a cocktail. OUR HOTSPOTS Ben Cohen Rozengracht 239 1016 SX Amsterdam +31 (0)20 705 81 71 www.bencohenstreetfood.com Ben Cohen is the go-to place for tasty and authentic Israeli and vegetarian fare. Be sure to try the famous shawarma with dollops of garlic sauce that’s been a true sensation in Amsterdam since 1978. Also tuck into the selection of Tel Aviv bites, scrumptious street food that you can eat with your hands. James’ favourite is the eggplant served with mushroom shawarma humus dip or one of the other luscious homemade humus.
IZAKAYA Asian Kitchen & Bar Albert Cuypstraat 2-6 1072 CT Amsterdam +31 (0)20 305 30 90 www.izakaya-restaurant.com If you like Japanese food, you’ll love Izakaya. The menu showcases fresh sushi and sashimi, plus an array of superb meat and fish dishes prepared on a traditional robata grill or hibachi oven. Bar Mash Gerard Douplein 9 1073 XE Amsterdam +31 (0)20 218 40 58 www.barmash.nl Bar Mash is located on the vibrant Gerard Douplein square in Amsterdam’s hip-andhappening De Pijp district. Surrounded by other bustling restaurants and terraces, Bar Mash is the perfect place to tuck into Thai treats and savour a selection of gin and tonics. Just sit back and soak up
the sun and atmosphere all afternoon long. A great find! Hiding in Plain Sight Rapenburg 18 1011 TX Amsterdam +31 (0)6 25 29 36 20 www.hpsamsterdam.com This award-winning cocktail bar is located near the Nieuwmarkt in the Amsterdam city centre. Walk through the door and step back into the old-school 1920’s ambience and enjoy the most amazing cocktails. Be sure to arrive early because this hotspot is always packed to capacity late at night and on weekends. It doesn’t matter whether you’re a cocktail connoisseur or not, you’ll love this cool bar that is hiding in plain sight.
Radio Radio Pazzanistraat 3 1014 DB Amsterdam www.radioradio.radio Radio Radio is a pop-up DJ bar in the popular Westergas cultural village on the west side of Amsterdam. This lively bar presents live music every Thursday through Sunday with a line-up featuring both young talent and well-known names. An eclectic mix of all kinds of music is played in the club and there’s a small outdoor terrace. Radio Radio also regularly broadcasts livestreams from the radio café.
71
HAARBARBAAR
Rosmarijnsteeg 4 1012 RP Amsterdam +31 (0)20 341 76 83 www.haarbarbaar.nl Haarbarbaar is characterised by its 1920s-style interior. This period is reflected in even the smallest details. Owner Nick Eimers explains that he conceived and designed the interior himself. The salon also features authentic chairs and cash registers dating from the 1950s. The floor comes from a French monastery and dates from the 18th century. The text ‘Sorry Ladies Men Only’ is scrawled on the shop window in elegant cursive lettering. Women have to wait outside patiently on the stoop. This is the place where men can be men. Haarbarbaar has a welcoming ambience and the team of barbers take plenty of time for each treatment. You can enjoy a cup of coffee or a dram of 72
whiskey while getting an impeccable new haircut. Haarbarbaar was the first barber shop in the Netherlands to also house a tattoo shop. Tattoo artist Joey de Boer is well-known for his large and small tattoos and intricate, minimalist creations. He’s very popular, so be sure to book in advance! OUR HOTSPOTS Lion Noir Reguliersdwarsstraat 28 1017 BM Amsterdam +31 (0)20 627 66 03 www.lionnoir.nl Restaurant-bar Lion Noir is nestled in the ‘secret village’ in the Reguliersdwarstraat in the heart of Amsterdam. This stylish establishment is well-known for its unique ambience featuring an eclectic chic interior, which has even won several awards. The seasonal menu showcases French cuisine and changes every three
months so that regular guests can always enjoy a surprising new selection of superb dishes. Lion Noir provides friendly service and offers al fresco dining in the summer in the lovely sunny enclosed garden with views of the surrounding canal houses. Salmuera Rozengracht 106 1016 NH Amsterdam +31 (0)20 624 57 52 www.sal-amsterdam.nl Salmuera is a paradise for meatlovers. It features authentic Latin American cuisine, excellent cocktails, Peruvian ceviche and delicious tender Argentinian meats from the charcoal grills. The owners go the extra mile to source the highest quality meats from the best regions of Argentina. Salmuera is the perfect hotspot for a date or a night out with friends. It also boasts a large garden that is the ideal place for enjoying al fresco dining in the summer.
Thuishaven Contactweg 68 1014 BW Amsterdam www.thuishaven.nl Amsterdam’s go-to place for fun evenings and Sunday afternoons. You can stroll barefoot in the sand during the summer, while the grounds are transformed into a circus during the winter months. Thuishaven always has a great vibe. While there isn’t scheduled programming, DJs from the Netherlands and abroad are always on hand to spin innovative, electronic or techno music. No two Sundays are the same and that’s what makes Thuishaven such a massive success.
73
MR MEA
Bilderdijkstraat 198 1053 LE Amsterdam +31 (0)20 778 06 32 www.mrmea.nl MR MEA in Amsterdam opened its doors in 2019. It radiates the distinguished atmosphere of a gentlemen’s club where men sit back and receive impeccable service. Each treatment is carried out with the utmost care, passion and attention to detail and the barbers take their time to provide meticulously perfect haircuts. The barbers are highly experienced and ensure a relaxing experience. The mission is for every client to leave the shop feeling good and painstakingly groomed.
74
OUR HOTSPOTS Restaurant Karaat Houthavenkade 103 1014 ZB Amsterdam +31 (0)20 223 96 95 www.karaatamsterdam.nl Karaat is a new hotspot to hit the scene in the up-and-coming, trendy De Houthavens district of Amsterdam. It feels like a second home – a place where you meet up with friends for drinks on Friday evening or get together with the family for Sunday brunch. The restaurant’s menu changes regularly, plus there’s a small bakery with a brasserie. The stylish Golden Room is a private room boasting spectacular views of the harbour. MR MEA’s owner Najib says it’s also a great place for meetings, gatherings or a dinner. There’s a live DJ every Friday night and you can hit the dancefloor during the silent disco!
Oslo Beer Sloterkade 1A 1058 HD Amsterdam +31 (0)20 669 96 63 www.oslobeers.nl Oslo Beers is located on the Sloterkade in Amsterdam South. It’s situated at the water’s edge and offers a cosy terrace where you can enjoy drinks until late. The indoor restaurant has recently been fully refurbished. It now also boasts a tap table where you can tap your own Heineken or specialty beer. Be sure to try the amazing burgers and truffle fries!
75
VAN DE HARE Amsterdam Barbers
the famously sharp Amsterdam humour and banter adds to the enjoyable experience. True to tradition, Marc treats his clients to a traditional Dutch bitterballen and a beer or a glass of wine on Saturday afternoons.
BarberSociety founder Marc van de Hare owns and operates this barber shop on the Singel canal in the heart of Amsterdam, near the ‘9 streets’ shopping area with its eclectic mix of boutiques and shops. Van de Hare Amsterdam barbers is a modern family business, a contemporary barber shop where third-generation barber Marc leads his team of passionate staff who bring barbering to a new level. The barber shop offers a range of treatments to a very diverse clientele. The team creates the ambience of a unique club where everyone feels at home and
OUR HOTSPOTS
restaurant, gym and cinema. The roof terrace affords breathtaking views of the entire city of Amsterdam. It’s a sublime setting for catching some rays perched high above the city. It’s also the perfect place to take a dip in the heated outdoor pool on lazy Sunday mornings!
Soho House Spuistraat 210 1012 VT Amsterdam +31 (0)20 888 03 00 www.sohohouse.com
La Fiorita Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 12H 1015 RZ Amsterdam +31 (0)20 775 43 44 www.lafiorita.nl
Marc’s favourite place is Soho House. This creative members’ only club has locations around the world. The Amsterdam branch is located in the heart of Amsterdam just across the canal from Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers. It feels like a second home to Marc. The club has a laidback atmosphere and features a comfortable lounge,
La Fiorita is a fabulous new Italian restaurant in the bohemian Jordaan district of Amsterdam. Savour classic Italian cuisine with a modern twist in lovely surroundings. Take a sensational culinary journey by ordering the fourcourse menu lovingly and skilfully prepared by the restaurant’s highly experienced chef.
Singel 274 1016 AC Amsterdam +31 (0)20 624 20 89 www.vandeharebarbers. amsterdam
76
© Mart Vlas
Jose Mollura Singel 276 1016 AC Amsterdam +31 (0)6 24108295 www.jose-mollura.com
Wynand Fockink was established in 1679, making it one of Amsterdam’s oldest distilleries and tasting taverns. It serves liquors and jenevers that are made in the same way they were in the 17th century. Wynand Fockink organises tastings and the liquor store offers you a choice of more than 70 Dutch liqueurs, jenevers, bitters and brandies. The tradition of bowing for the first sip is still honoured in this cosy and historic tavern.
José Mollura is located next door to the barber shop. This studio
creates hand-made bags of all shapes and sizes. José Mollura comes from Buenos Aires and has a heartfelt passion for genuine craftsmanship. It’s fascinating to watch Jose crafting his leather bags and wallets in the shop window.
© Niels Ewoldt
Wynand Fockink Pijlsteeg 31 1012 HH Amsterdam +31 (0)20 639 2695 www.wynand-fockink.nl
These Amsterdam barber shops will naturally also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com/insider). Look out for them on the social channels!
77
INTERV IEW
78
MIHAELA STELNICEANU
BARBER BABE
It all started with a bad haircut Mihaela Stelniceanu from Romania, age 27, did not plan to become a barber. Seven years ago, one of her friends got a bad haircut and was very upset. While she didn’t have any experience as a barber, she was sure she could fix it and took on the challenge of cutting her friend’s hair. A talent was born. Mihaela discovered a natural talent for barbering and wanted to become a barber. Her father helped her pay for a barbering training course to learn the skills of the trade. She then went to work at a friend’s hair studio, where she still works today. With plans to open her own barber shop this year, she’s ready to take the next step in her career. 79
Best decision ever Why did she decide to become a barber? Mihaela pauses and replies: “I didn’t decide to become a barber.” She explains that it started with her friend’s botched-up haircut. Mihaela: “I thought: I can fix it. It couldn’t be worse than it already was. I tried it and it was the best thing I ever did in my life. I wanted to attend barbering school. My dad helped me pay for the course and launch my career.” Learning in practice After completing the barbering course, Mihaela contacted a friend from high school who owns a hair studio. She offered her a job as a barber and she has been working at that studio ever since. Over the past seven years she has developed her skills in practice. What does she like most about her job? “I love the team and will miss them when I start my own shop. They are amazing people.” Women need to step into the limelight As in many countries, the barbering industry in Romania is dominated by men. Mihaela does see a growing number of women entering the profession. “There are five female barbers at my studio.” She does think female barbers should do a better job of raising their profile.
They end up looking like a potato 80
“I know a lot of female barbers, but they don’t promote themselves. I’m the only one in Romania who has become a trainer and educator. There are female barbers, but they aren’t publicised.” A place in the winner’s circle Mihaela is convinced that female barbers should take part in events in order to raise their profile. She was recently the only Romanian woman to participate in the Monster Barbering Show in Bucharest. She says nothing compares to the excitement of a live show: “It’s the best feeling ever. With all the emotions, all the stress, it’s like nothing else. Taking part in shows is also hugely important for your image. It provides a platform for people to get to know you. They have the opportunity to see you live on stage. They might have known your work before from photographs, which they may think have been photoshopped. But when they see you do it live; they know you’re the real deal.”
A man’s job Mihaela says female barbers must overcome obstacles and prejudices in Romania: “Some men don’t think a woman can cut hair as well as a man. They’re afraid to have a woman cut their hair. They particularly think a woman can’t shave a beard correctly. And I must admit that many female barbers aren’t good at beards and should improve their skills in this area. If you enter the barbering business, as a woman you have to learn to do everything in the field, not just cutting hair,” says Mihaela. Matching the haircut to the man Mihaela says she enjoys working with clients to find their perfect style and look. “I love it when I see the happy expression on their faces when I’ve done a good job and they’re pleased with the result. It’s great that they’re willing to let me change their look. I don’t like to give clients any haircut they ask for. I show them examples in order to explain the face, shape, jawline and
I didn’t decide to become a barber
What makes a Mihaela haircut stand out? “Probably my fades,” says Mihaela. “But I always want people to see that I focus on the top, style and colours too. I personalise the cut for each client. I don’t do the same fade for everyone – it’s different for each client. My goal is to become more creative – to venture out of my comfort zone. We have
to learn new things non-stop and continually educate ourselves. My main message to female barbers is: gain education. Attend workshops, events and seminars. Even if you gain just one takeaway from an educator, you can grow a lot.” Big plans for the future Mihaela has big plans for the future. “I hope to open my own barber shop this autumn. It will be called Barberladies and will be the first barber shop in Romania with an all-female crew. It’s a dream come true. I also really want to evolve as an educator. I’ll be giving at least four classes this year, so being a trainer and
an educator is my biggest goal for the future. I also want to become a mother.” She is convinced that it’s possible to be a full-time barber and a great mother. “If you really want it, you can find a way.” Her mission is to continue to grow and develop as a barber and explore new frontiers of creativity. It’s amazing that a bad haircut can lead to such a bright future.
© Daniel Ene
other factors you must take into account when creating a hair style. Not all haircuts work on every person. Men who come in with a picture and ask for that haircut and the barber just does it, end up looking like a potato.”
81
82
83
‘Hair culture exchange’ Hair Show AHMA, Cosmoprof Asia, Hong Kong (HK), November 2019
Barber Birdman
84 Jay Lee of Eagles Barbershop (HK)
85
‘Hair culture exchange’ Hair Show AHMA, Cosmoprof Asia, Hong Kong (HK), November 2019
Nick of Brothers Men Barbershop (HK)
86
Tsvetelina Gergova
Organiser Tiberiu Stanciu
Zena Yuh
Mirko, Spaghettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
all photos Š Daniel Ene
87
Monster Barbering Show, Bucharest (RO), November 2019
R one
@tailorfade, Trevor Moots
88
Model Jarred Liddington
Kani (l), Kotoy (r)
all photos Š Daniel Ene
89
Monster Barbering Show, Bucharest (RO), November 2019
Mihaela Selniceanu and model
Andrey Dolkikh
Atman barber
90 Jarred Liddington
91
Mirko, Spaghettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
Spaghettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Barberfestival & Cosmoprof, Torino (IT), November 2019
Julius Cvesar
Josh Lamonaca, Menspire
92
Axel Torraco
Charlie Gray, Menspire
Hayden Cassidy
93
Spaghettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Barberfestival & Cosmoprof, Torino (IT), November 2019
WA H L D ECA D E S S H OW
Joth Davies
Fresh Prince the barber
94
Organiser Eleni Panagos Marra (l), Charlie Gray (r)
Josh Lamonaca
95
5th Greek Barber Festival, Loutraki (GR), February 2020
96 Dimos Intos
97
5th Greek Barber Festival, Loutraki (GR), February 2020
Spiridon Kaparakis
James Beaumont
C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R
QUESTION!â&#x20AC;Ś Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve spent time and money creating the perfect barbershop, but you know that you have to also market that shop. You have to create the environment for people to want to walk through your door and feel really, really comfortable. Now, as a profile coach and as a marketer, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really important is that your business needs to stand out, it needs to stand out from the crowd. With the barber boom there is more and more competition out there, so how do you make your barbershop stand out?
I would like to share with you some key strategies to get your barbershop the profile it needs and to outpace your competition. I would like to share with you a few tips that you should be really focused on when it comes to making your brand stand out. Trust and credibility If you have a new business or have been in business for a while, you know that trust and credibility is very important to the end user, and to those potential clients you want walking through your doors. You need to be seen as the authority, the expert, and the quickest way of building that trust and credibility is to have standard tools that will help you enlist their trust. 1
Firstly, have a website, make it easy for your client to book. Think of your website as your 98
digital shopfront. It needs to be maintained so that Google can rank your website as a place of relevant information to the end user. There are many apps available at the moment, and also a website is really important in terms of your Google ranking. People can also find your business quickly and easily via a web search. Ensure that your business is geotagged. So, in your social media post, put your location and where you are so that people can easily find you. The other strategy that is really important to build trust and credibility is to make sure that your clients leave honest reviews for your business on Google. Incentivise them to do so. Think about it, whenever you go to check out any new business, or go on holiday, book hotel or apartment you first look and read the reviews. We all make decisions based on reviews. What other people genuinely say about that business? This will also boost your website ranking when it comes to new people looking for the new barber experience in your area. Another great way to build trust and credibility is to enter your barbershop to business awards. This will build instant trust and credibility that you
DO YOU WANT MORE CLIENTS IN YOUR BARBER SHOP? are an award-winning barbershop with an awardwinning team. Nothing builds trust and credibility quicker and it also gives you amazing bragging rights when it comes to out marketing your competition. Be the expert 2 Being the expert means constantly communicating through your social media channels the reasons why you are the go-to place in your local area. Give tips, expert advice and offer solutions to obstacles that you know your target audience may be experiencing. This knowledge can be conveyed through the video content or blogs. Be sure to add this content to your website to keep it updated and relevant. Interior It can be hard for somebody to walk through your door that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know your business. Make it easier for prospective clients to get a feel of the environment way before they actually stepped in. 3
Creating professional photos and videos of the environment and making them available for them to preview before coming to your shop, can be a massive deal breaker. Follow the advice of top In-salon Interior Photographer, Andy Kruczek to help you create those professional images of your salon interiors essential for this all important marketing strategy. Ensure: The barber shop is generally clean and tidy. Lightbulbs are all working. There are no roadworks outside. No delivery vans expected. Fresh flowers are placed if appropriate. Salon is empty or very quiet. If customers are in the shots, be sure that they are happy to sign a release form. Bottles and colour bars are well stocked. Cables on dryers and clippers are tidy or hidden. Workstations tidy, personal effects removed.
For new salons, that any building, decorating etc is finished. Any seasonal items (Christmas etc) that can date the shot are removed. Staff uniforms clean and tidy. Profiling your barbershop in the 21st century is a must, because you cannot depend on guys just walking through your door. Why? Well there is just too much competition. Having the right marketing strategies in place will guarantee your success. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like any more help and advice, you can hit me up on my new website, Elite Profile Academy. Where I help salon owners and individual barbers to really grow their business and their individual profiles. Because having a strong profile and a strong identity will draw more people to your business. This is the key strategy that will help you become more successful within the hair industry. So, head over to www.eliteprofileacademy.com. Chris Foster, the profile guy
Creating professional photos and videos of your shop, can be a massive deal breaker 99
© Mart Vlas
A L L I N T H E FA M I LY
100
INTERVIEW WITH WOUT VAN DE HARE
THE APPLE DOESN’T FALL FAR FROM THE TREE Wout van de Hare comes from a long line of barbers. His father had a barber shop, and his three brothers went into the business as well. Wout’s son and daughter have also followed in his footsteps and entered the profession. His son Marc succeeded him as owner of the barber shop located on the Singel canal in the heart of Amsterdam. Wout shares the story of this barbering dynasty. A shaving assistant in small town Kampen “My father, Harm van de Hare, grew up in the small town of Kampen in the Dutch province of Overijssel. He began working there as a shaving assistant when he was just fourteen years old. It wasn’t a fun job back then given that they also had to shave men who had died. But he dreamt of doing more than just shaving local farmers for the rest of his life. So he moved to Amsterdam where he opened a barber shop on the Amstelveenseweg in Amsterdam South in 1934. He became ill shortly after opening the barber shop and was forced to give up the business due to his failing health. Tough times followed. By the time his health was good enough to go back to work, World War II was under way and the Netherlands was occupied. He was fortunate to find a job at a barber shop in the Amsterdam city centre. After the war, the building that housed the barber shop was bought by het Parool newspaper, so he had to find another place of employment. That’s when my 101
Each generation leaves its own mark father got the chance to buy the barber shop on the Singel canal, where my son Marc still has the barber shop today.” Changing hair styles “I grew up in a family with four sons and all of them became barbers. But my eldest brother didn’t like cutting men’s hair and became a women’s hairdresser, as did my other brothers. In contrast, I loved barbering and, after completing barbering college, I succeeded my father as owner of the barber shop. One of my teachers at college was Piet Kalle, and I couldn’t have wished for a better teacher. He went on to become a prominent figure in the Dutch hairdressing world, serving as chairman of both the Royal Dutch Hairdressers Association and the Dutch Central Industry Board for Skilled Trades. I was only twenty-one years old when I took over the barber shop, including three employees.” Wout explains that the barbering business went through a tumultuous period in the 1960s. “I turned the barber shop into a mixed salon for both men and women, but I did this out of necessity. Men’s hair styles changed dramatically in the 1960s and the new longer styles meant many men didn’t need regular visits to the barber for a cut and a shave. That’s why I decided to attend evening college to learn women’s hairdressing. But even after this, most of my clients were always men. My wife and I went on to have a son and a daughter. At a certain point I told my son Marc that the time had come for him to take over the business. Marc wanted to take over the helm, but did say from the outset 102
that he was going to do things completely differently.” Passion for the barbering business “Marc converted the business back to a barber shop in the 1990s, long before barber shops became popular in the Netherlands. Barbering just appealed to him much more than hairdressing. I was happy with that move. After Marc took over the business, I stepped back and let him do his own thing. My father also gave me the freedom to run the business as I saw fit, so I knew how important that is. After all, each generation leaves its own mark.
looked down on and I’m so proud that Marc founded the BarberSociety to support the barbering business. Because I think everyone now agrees that this trade should never have been written off. The BarberSociety Live event is marking its fifth anniversary this year and just look at how the barbering business has regained its place on the map during that period. I still work one day a week at Marc’s barber shop. It’s a lot of fun; on Saturdays we offer clients a beer or glass of wine and traditional Dutch bitterballen or ossenworst. It keeps me young. Because even though I’m 73, I plan to lead an active life for many years to come. What’s more, I still have a few loyal clients who have been coming to me to get their hair cut all their lives!”
I never wanted to do anything else. My father loved the barbering business and he passed on his passion to me and my brothers. I saw how much my father enjoyed his work and I wanted to follow in his footsteps. I handed down that same enthusiasm to my children, with Marc taking up barbering and my daughter Monique becoming a hairdresser. But they both chose the profession of their own free will. I didn’t push them; they made the decision themselves. But, at the end of the day, the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree!” Putting barbering back on the map “You now see a development that’s exactly the opposite of what happened when I was young. Many regular hairdressing salons now also offer barber treatments, because everybody wants a piece of the pie. But working with clippers and a razor is a craft that you must learn through training. I’m very happy to see that barbering is no longer
Wout van de Hare, 1988
In the middle Wout van de Hare, 1970
Harm van de Hare, 1961
Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers Singel 274, Amsterdam www.vandeharebarbers.amsterdam
At the back: Harm van de Hare, 1953
103
BARBERS chairs FROM THE COMFORTEL COLLECTION
WHISTER Barbers Chair €899,-
SWIFT Barbers Chair €899,-
CROW Barbers Chair €1249,-
COMFORTEL EUROPE STOCKIST GUY SARLEMIJN DESIGN SHOWROOM ZUID-KAVELSEDIJK 3 3291 LX STRIJEN OPEN EVERY SUNDAY 12-17
WWW.GUYSARLEMIJN.COM INFO@GUYSARLEMIJN.COM PHONE +31 (0) 10 303 1600 WHATSAPP 31 (0) 6 57 83 86 88
SALON FURNITURE