INTERVIEW WITH MERCEDES PAGINTON I’VE BEEN TRYING TO BRING BACK MULLETS FOR ABOUT SIX YEARS COFFEE ROASTERY BEHIND BARS BARBERSRIDE BARBERS, MOTORBIKES AND A LOT OF FUN!
BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE
HAIR LOSS AND FOUND
SPRING 2021 | #7 | € 12,50
INTERVIEW WITH EOIN MCCARTHY FOLLOWING A SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE
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Collection: Boys Hair: Royston Blythe and Anthony Osbourne (UK) Photography: Richard Miles Styling: Nick Malenko @roystonblythe, @anthonyjay_o
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EDITORIAL FOLLOWING A SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE Interview with Eoin McCarthy FROM HAIR LOSS TO HAIR GROWTH M ore and more men experience hair loss 10 B arbers on hair loss 14 T he hair transplantation, column Chris Foster 16 TRENDS Charlie Cullen, Marc Calvache Montalvo, Royston Blythe & Anthony Osbourne, Álvaro Torres de Castro, Jose Urrutia, Carmelo Tortosa, Eli Mindset, Chris Abbott, Dario J. Braun & Sanjay Ramcharan, Tim Scott Wright & James Nicklin, Mercedes Paginton, Pelsynera, Alexander Kiryliuk, Matt Clarke, Chris Mattick for Moser, Salon Five, Terje leivseth, Alexis Ferrer, Sid Sottung PRODUCT NEWS Grooming, In Shop, Lifestyle BARBERS & COFFEE Coffee that changes lives A n all-in-one Barber & Coffee concept
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BARBERS & THE CIT Y Reykjavik BARBER BABE Interview with Mercedes Paginton ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with David & James Smith BARBERSRIDE 2021 Barbers, bikes and a lot of fun
Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Writers Steven Walker, Marit Heemskerk Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.
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LOOKING TO THE FUTURE WITH HOPE
EDITORIAL
Hope springs eternal. There is a bright spot on the horizon. I feel fortunate that barbers in the Netherlands were able to reopen in March, while other sectors remain closed. The Dutch government stated that a good haircut contributes to people’s well-being. And boy is that the truth! It goes without saying that lockdowns and illnesses with fevers, such as Corona, cause many people to experience high levels of stress. This also affects our hair and can even lead to hair loss. Experts, including Hans van Montfort of Van Montfort Laboratories, predicted early on that there would be ‘Covid hair loss’. We asked him to bring us up to date on the latest knowledge concerning hair loss. No less than 38% of Dutch people experience hair loss by their thirtieth birthday! This is why in this Spring edition we are highlighting several hair loss treatments within the theme ‘from hair loss to hair growth’.
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The mullet Speaking of hair growth… The before and after portraits of men’s haircuts – from scruffy to freshly cut - as barbershops reopened are hilarious. This makes our work more gratifying than ever, and nothing beats seeing clients so happy with their new fresh haircuts. I’ve noticed that quite a few clients have decided that they like a longer style and I see the mullet coming back into fashion. Father and son barbering duo David and James Smith, who are featured in this edition’s ‘all-in the family’ section, also say mullets can make a comeback. It is music to the ears of Mercedes Paginton, who was a finalist in the 2020 British Master Barbers’ Barber of the Year competition. She’s been trying to bring back the mullet
for about six years! You’ll also spot the occasional mullet in our trend photos. From professional cyclist to successful barber I think the story of Irish barber Eoin McCarthy, who’s been living in Australia for several years, is truly amazing. I met him in China in 2019. He was serving as an Andis educator at the China International Hair Fair & Salon Show Guangzhou. He is really moving from strength to strength in the barbering world. Last year he won the International Men’s Collection Award for his ‘Unity in Diversity’ collection. He used to be a professional cyclist and says there are actually a lot of parallels between cycling and barbering! Be sure to read his remarkable story on page 6 and check out the making-of movie of his winning collection via the QR code or at www.barbersociety.com/bonusmovies. Giving back to society As barbers we have a social profession and are an integral part of our clients’ lives. The British BarbersRide came about as a way to give something back to the community. It’s a fantastic motorcycling road trip through Scotland that raises funds for a good cause. We’ve put together a cool report on this fantastic event. It’s all about the roaring motors, camaraderie and enjoying the ride! If you are a biker and a barber, don’t miss the chance to go on this once-in-a-lifetime ride in August! Ex-convict Jemuel Lampe also wanted to give something back to society. He has built up a great business featuring brands such
Can I get you a cup of coffee? as ‘Zuivere Koffie’, an inspiring enterprise developed around the world’s first and only coffee roasting house in a prison. It was an honour to meet him, and I’m so impressed with his story of how his coffee can make a difference in someone’s life. And his coffee tastes amazing! We all know that coffee plays a big part at every barbershop. ‘Can I get you a cup of coffee?’ is often the first thing you say when a client comes into the barbershop. So be sure to read Jemuel’s story and the other coffee stories. In closing In closing, I would like to express my gratitude for being able to produce this Spring edition with very limited resources during this difficult period. This has only been possible thanks to
the support of our loyal advertising partners and our suppliers. They are also committed to contributing to the growth of the barbering profession by providing inspiration and information via BarberSociety magazine. But we are above all thankful that the barbering sector has demonstrated such incredible resilience to stay afloat and that you, the barber community and our subscribers, continue to follow us and support us during these difficult times. I’d like to especially thank barber Andri Týr from Iceland. He compiled a fantastic report on the barber shops in the capital city of Reykjavik for our ‘Barbers & the City’ section!
great profession. One of them is BarberSociety Live, which we wholeheartedly hope will be able to take place in the autumn. Follow our social channels to stay up to date on all the latest developments! Let’s hope we return to normal soon!
Marc van de Hare Founder BarberSociety owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers
We continue to develop plans to further build the success of our
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INTERV IEW
FOLLOWING A SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE
INTERVIEW WITH EOIN MCCARTHY Eoin McCarthy aims to be the best at whatever he does. At just 27 years of age, he has lived in three countries, had a successful career in professional cycling and is now a rising star in the barbering world. Just five years into his career as a barber, he has been named Irish Barbering Apprentice of the Year in 2016 and Victoria Barber of the Year for 2017. Last year he picked up the International Men’s
Collection Award for his ‘Unity in Diversity’ collection. Born and raised in Cork, Ireland, he now lives in Melbourne, Australia, where he works at the awardwinning AREA Studio barber shop and is co-owner of the AREA Academy. BarberSociety Magazine caught up virtually with Eoin to chat about his journey from professional cycling to world-class barbering.
Changing gears After leaving school, Eoin followed his dream of a career in international cycling. He moved to Belgium in 2011 and joined the ASFRA Racing Team. In 2013, he signed up as a full-time cyclist with the top Belgian competition team ‘Terra Footwear-Bicycle Line’. Eoin turned professional in 2015, becoming part of the ‘An-Post Chain Reaction’ team owned by Irish cycling legend Sean Kelly. A highlight of his cycling career was riding the UCI under - 23 Nations Cups – Tour of Flanders on the Irish National Team. At his peak he was clocking up 60 to 70 race days a year. Moving to another country as a teenager also meant he had to grow up fast and adapt to a new culture. And then he decided it was time for a change and retired from the sport. Eoin explains: “When I left school, I moved to Belgium and became a full-time cyclist. My mother is a hairdresser, so that’s how I got into the hair industry. I never thought I’d be a barber, but when my cycling career finished prematurely, 6
I decided to give hair a go. So I began about five years ago at my mum’s salon in Cork. I worked there for a year. I condensed an apprenticeship into that one year working crazy hours. I attended a course in Dublin put on by the guys at UK-based Menspire who were just back from Australia. I asked Menspire’s founder, Josh Lamonaca, what Australia was like because I was thinking about going there. I’d always wanted to come here but couldn’t because of my cycling commitments. So he set me up with this job I am in now.” Complementary skill sets While cycling and barbering might seem worlds apart, both professions require similar skill sets and personal qualities. Eoin says he applies what he learned as a cyclist to his new profession as a barber. “I really contribute my success in the barbering industry to the correlation between the two professions. Cycling is a very disciplined sport requiring dedication, commitment, sacrifice and resilience.
The collection has been successful and is still getting traction today
Scan the QR code for the collection ‘making of ‘Unity in Diversity’ 7
There are lots of setbacks and highs and lows. That developed my resilience. So I transferred many of the skills I’d learned in cycling to hair. It’s all about committing and dedicating yourself to a goal. Consistency is key, it taught me consistency and resilience. There are a lot of crossovers actually.” Climbing the ranks Eoin gained international exposure by winning the International Men’s Collection for his ‘Unity in Diversity’ collection. “I first created it for the Australian Men’s Hairdresser of the Year competition. My motive was to build my profile for education and to have a creative outlet. Then Covid happened and the competition was cancelled. So I thought: What will I do now? I’ve just put all this money, time and effort into it. Then I spoke with my mentor Paul Mac back in Ireland 8
who I trained with when I first started out. I sent the collection to him and he said: “You’ve got to put this online!” That’s possibly the best piece of advice I’ve had. The collection has been really successful and is still getting traction today.” Inspiring unity Eoin drew his inspiration for the collection from the mosaic of cultures living in harmony in Melbourne’s suburbs. “The idea originated around the culturally diverse suburbs in Melbourne and the unity within them. Melbourne is very multicultural and so is my clientele. I wanted to celebrate that diversity in my collection. Unlike many places, there doesn’t seem to be a divide in the community here, but a real sense of community. Each individual look has a story to tell and could be representative of a Melbourne suburb.”
Building on the basics He says the collection showcases his well-rounded skills set: “The collection represents my style of cutting. I learned to cut hair in Ireland where everyone wants the same haircut. I learned how to do the basics and do them well. When I came here, I was thrown into this pool of variation, with so many different styles and hair types. It’s made my skills set very diverse. I’m pretty well-rounded as a barber and that’s the way I was a cyclist.” Education opens the world Eoin began sharing his knowledge with others early on in his career. “I started educating pretty early. After meeting the guys at Andis at a Sydney hair expo, I joined the team and started teaching for Andis. I am now a global educator with them.” He recently became co-owner of AREA Academy. “At AREA
Academy we see our profession as modern men’s haircutting rather than strictly barbering or hairdressing. It’s men’s haircutting that incorporates hairdressing techniques and barbering skills. So it’s a good fusion – somewhere in between hairdressing and barbering,” he explains. Eoin says his academy fulfils a unique need: “It is an up-skilling facility. We challenge the way other stylists perceive men’s hair. We help people express their creativity and improve their men’s hairdressing skills.” Living in the now When asked where he sees himself five years from now, he replies: “You never know what the future holds. I try to keep open-minded about my future, but I do want to delve into the education side of things. I want to build on AREA Academy and
for it to become a successful business and help a lot of people in achieving their goals and realising their potential.” Seeing the positive “People need to look at things from a glass-half-full perspective. Many people have just shut down during lockdown. They don’t do anything and put up barriers in their minds. Whereas you can turn this time into a positive, reflect and look at what you’re doing with your life and look at your business. You can see if you can restructure it and make it more enjoyable and successful for you. I look at Covid as a chance to do everything – we have the time that we never had before and can do the things we’ve always wanted to do. So do those things now and work on building a better future for yourself while you have the time.”
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T H E M E : FR O M H A I R LO S S TO H A I R G R OW T H
MORE AND MORE MEN EXPERIENCE HAIR LOSS SOME 38% OF DUTCH MEN EXPERIENCE HAIR LOSS BY AGE
Hans van Montfort explains the research study findings: “it was revealed in the interviews I conducted with balding men that the majority of them would have liked to have done something about their hair loss at an early stage, but they lacked confidence in the treatments on offer or were afraid of potential side effects. So they ended up having no alternative but a hair transplant.” He provides us an overview of the ins and outs of hair loss. Androgenetic hair loss
Physician and researcher Hans van Montfort
“It’s natural for men to experience hair loss or thinning hair as they grow older. Depending on genetic factors, 70-95% of men will suffer hair loss at some point in their lives. But it is striking that increasing numbers of young men are experiencing hair loss. In the Netherlands, 38% of men suffer hair loss by the age of 30, with the onset of hair loss sometimes beginning in puberty. While many men act like it does not bother them and just reach for the clippers, some 19% of the men experience hair loss as disturbing. This has been revealed in the National Hair Survey,” says physician and researcher Hans van Montfort, owner of Van Montfort Laboratories and developer of Esthecin hair growth serum. Van Montfort Laboratories commissioned the National Hair Survey in association with the Dutch Hair Foundation. 10
Androgenetic hair loss is the most common form of hair loss among both men and women. It is partially due to genetics. But it’s wrong to think you will inevitably go bald if your father is or was bald. This is because many of these traits are found on the female X chromosome. The actual cause is the conversion of testosterone into Dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This occurs in the hair follicles, which consequently become increasingly weaker. With the mild form, this means the hair growth cycle is shortened, which leads to thinner, shorter and more brittle hair. It is important to realise in this regard that the hair growth cycle takes place from the same hair follicles an average of twenty times during our lifetime. A two-year hair growth cycle consequently means you will be bald at the age of 40, and with a seven-year cycle you will still have a full head of hair at age 100. In the case of severe hair loss, the hair follicles are affected to the extent that they will die off completely over
Pluck test Do not wash your hair the day before the test. Grasp a pluck of 60 hairs on the scalp and hold onto it. G ently tug on the pluck of hair: a. It’s normal for six hairs (10%) to come loose. b. If more hairs come loose, it is an indication of possible hair loss. Then repeat this test at different places on your scalp. 1
time (an average of two to three years) and not grow back. The form of hair loss has a different pattern among men than among women. This relates to the hair follicles’ sensitivity to DHT. In the case of men, the temples and crown are the most sensitive, while the top of the head is more sensitive in women. To measure is to know The progression of men’s hair loss has traditionally been classified on the Hamilton-Norwood scale. This scale subjectively shows hair loss in an advanced stage. So it classifies hair loss after the fact. Given that treatments are available, it’s important to identify hair loss at an early stage. Because the earlier you start with a treatment, the better the result will be. Sometimes keeping the existing hair is the maximum that can be achieved. Rapid hair loss is revealed immediately by the amount of hair on your hairbrush or in the shower drain. It is, however, more difficult to identify hair loss when it is a very gradual process. You can only see hair loss with the naked eye when an average of 50% of the hair has already been lost. This could take up to ten years. But you can, as a professional barber with a trained eye, recognise hair loss at an earlier stage. This is particularly true with regular clients because you can assess the change in the quality of their hair and possibly see it becoming thinner or more brittle. This is also the stage when it becomes more difficult to give the client a haircut that he likes. On the other hand, you can also see the new hairs (often just down) when the hair begins to recover and can consequently reassure the client. There are several ways to identity hair loss at an early stage:
2 Wash test You can also carry out a wash test: Wash your hair for one week every day above a sink with the plug in. After this period, collect the hair from the sink and the comb and/or brush and place them on a tissue. Count all these hairs at the end of the week. If the number of hairs is between 50 and 100 a day, you are experiencing normal hair loss.
Receding hairline
You can measure a receding hairline by measuring the distance between the top of the nose bridge and the hair line and temples using a tape measurer (see the photograph). Repeat this process every three months using the same tape measurer with millimetre markings. Do not base your determination on one measurement. Record the measurements in an overview immediately after the measurement. If the distance becomes greater over this threemonth period, you can ascertain that there is a receding hair line.
Trichoscopy Some professionals use a trichoscope. It is a special light is used to magnify the scalp and the hairs. This enables you to properly chart and assess the problem. This process can now also be done by computer. Future Given the fact that androgenetic hair loss is partly genetic, a genetic profile can predict the sensitivity to this form of hair loss. Van Montfort Laboratories is working, in association with a specialised laboratory, on the development of a once-only test of this kind. Do hair growth treatments really work? We are regularly asked this question. The answer is both yes and no. This is because it depends on multiple factors. And because the expectations are often very high, it is disappointing when a treatment turns out not to work. This is especially the case because hair loss is psychologically distressing for many people. Whether a treatment works depends on the treatment itself and the user’s circumstances. Let me explain: A hair growth treatment can only work if the hair follicles are still existent. With most forms of hair loss, the hair follicles die if they have been fallow for two to three years. Sometimes the hair follicles have been weakened to the point that it will take a long time before they can once again become active. You cannot yet see any signs and don’t think anything is happening, but there could be a lot going on underneath the skin. This is why the general consensus is that you can only determine whether a treatment is effective after six months. And that takes patience and the discipline to keep using the treatment consistently and according to the instructions. If the hair follicles are dead, the most a hair growth treatment can 11
do is maintain the existing hair. Hair growth treatments work on all hair follicles, so that includes beard and eyebrow follicles. It is, however, important to note that it’s impossible for any serum or treatment to achieve more than nature allows. But if there are a limited number of hair follicles, it is possible that multiple hairs will begin to grow from one hair follicle and that the hair will look stronger and healthier. The hair growth process is relatively complicated and depends on many factors. When I developed the Esthecin hair growth serum, I formulated it in such a way that it affects numerous aspects of hair growth. What also makes Esthecin unique is the so-called liposomal technology. It transports the active ingredients through the skin so that it reaches the cells of the hair follicles. Free e-book The more familiar you are as a barber with the subject matter, the better you will be able to advise your client. That’s why we wrote a handbook that is available as a free e-book to professionals who have registered with Esthecin. You can register on the website: www.esthecin.com/professional
How was the Esthecin hair growth serum developed? Hans van Montfort explains: “Our daughter Esther suddenly encountered sever hair loss back in 2012. She went to her GP, the dermatologist and finally a hair clinic. But there wasn’t anyone who could help her, and she was advised to go to a wig maker. Esther became isolated and depressed. That’s when I decided to conduct further research into hair loss. After all, tackling conditions that nobody could do anything about was my specialty. After first studying the biology and physiology of hair, I began 12
ESTHECIN, THE NEW GENERATION OF HAIR GROWTH SERUM Why is Esthecin so special and, above all, so effective? There are two main reasons why Esthecin works so well: 1 The interaction of the highly effective and natural ingredients Unlike other manufacturers, Esthecin does not focus on just one cause of hair loss and one specific active ingredient, but on a variety. The extent to which hair loss occurs depends on hereditary factors, hormone levels and lifestyle such as for example nutrition. Toxic substances such as smoking, metabolism and oxidation from too much sunlight also have a major influence. Esthecin contains various natural ingredients of herbal origin (herbs, roots & medicinal plants) that influence these factors in a unique interaction. Each ingredient supports the natural hair growth cycle in a different way.
2 The innovative and technical composition of the serum In addition, a new liposomal technology has been developed for Esthecin, which ensures that the active ingredients are absorbed into the cells of the hair root. Liposomes are small fat globules. Their wall consists of a double layer of phospholipids (fatty substances). The ingredients are safely stored in these globules. When the hair serum is applied to the scalp, the ingredients in the microscopically large fat globules are directly absorbed into the hair root and also strengthen the cell wall.
New New hairhair growth growth serum serum Effective. Effective. Natural. Natural. Sustainable. Sustainable.
exploring possibilities for restoring the nature of hair growth. Esther achieved fantastic results with the hair serum I developed, and it was a real boost to her mental health. That’s when we thought: ‘If it helps Esther, it might help other people who have the same problem. We had, after all, seen how happy Esther was with the result.’ We decided
to develop it further in collaboration with a cosmetic research laboratory. It was then tested on men and women and achieved good results. This led us to establish Van Montfort Laboratories even though we had already reached retirement age. Esthecin hair growth serum is the first product to be presented by this laboratory.”
New: HERCULES SÄGEMANN AG as a strong partner for the future Three years ago, Van Montfort Laboratories and the traditional German company Hercules Sägemann AG got to know each other for the first time. It quickly became clear that together they could complement each other perfectly in many respects. Over the months, concepts and sales opportunities were developed, which are now being implemented. As a global supplier of premium products, Hercules Sägemann AG will take over the distribution of Esthecin for the whole of Europe and other countries with immediate effect. Hercules Sägemann AG is currently looking for exclusive partners for some countries in order to ensure the distribution of Esthecin throughout Europe. Esthecin has created a fantastic “country triangle”: Development at the Dutch Van Montfort Laboratories, manufactured in Switzerland, which enjoys an excellent reputation worldwide in terms of quality and professionalism, and then distributed through the German company Hercules Sägemann AG. As a result, Esthecin and Hercules Sägemann AG are now going a common path. The history and success story of Hercules Sägemann AG began in 1856 and still stands today with its DNA for the best quality, premium and sustainability. The worldwide known Hercules Sägemann AG combs made of natural rubber are produced in manufactory quality. The company is therefore the ideal partner for the future when it comes to the topic of high-quality hair care.
premium comb & brush range leaves nothing to be desired in terms of gentle styling.
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The brush assortment is also impressive. The premium brushes are partly equipped with high-quality boar bristles that make the hair shine and are particularly gentle and stimulating for the scalp. Hercules Sägemann & Esthecin stand for quality and sustainability. Your reliable partner!
The premium combs of the company Hercules Sägeman AG are made of 100% natural rubber and are handmade and polished in more than 40 working steps. As a result, they glide gently through the hair. The handmade barber series leaves nothing
More information Hercules Sägemann AG Germany www.hercules-saegemann.de Van Montfort Laboratories BV The Netherlands www.esthecin.com
The duo now wants to work together to help as many people as possible regain voluminous and beautiful hair and make them happy again. “We offer the perfect complete solution for effective and sustainable hair care from root to tip!” says Bernd Menzel, CEO of Hercules Sägemann AG. Esthecin effectively ensures hair growth and beautiful hair, and the 13
T H E M E : FR O M H A I R LO S S TO H A I R G R OW T H
BARBERS ON HAIR LOSS OPENING UP ABOUT HAIR LOSS a barber who knows what they are doing in terms of leaving the disconnection in the haircuts and hiding problem areas. Also use the right shampoos with organic ingredients and stay away from supermarket shampoos.”
Eoin McCarthy, AREA Studio & Academy, Melbourne (AU) Many men struggle with hair loss and Eoin says it’s a regular topic of conversation at the salon. “I get asked by clients a lot about hair loss and how to handle it. It basically comes down to genetics and there’s no way to stop it. The main thing is to go to
AREA Studio recently launched a division focussing exclusively on tackling hair loss. “We just started AREA Aesthetics that concentrates on scalp micro pigmentation. So that shows there is real demand for services in this field.” The more you worry, the worse it gets Eoin continues, “I tell a lot of my clients that the more they worry about it, the worse it’s going to get. It’s becoming a big thing. A lot of people are getting hair transplants. I’ve seen some very
good ones and some very obvious ones. So again you get what you pay for. If you buy cheap, you buy twice.” He’s not big on serums and toupees. “I think the serums are fads and a money grab. For me toupees are a definite no-no. You shouldn’t be wearing a toupee! If you’re bald, invest in a good hat,” he says with a chuckle. Eoin says its best to accept hair loss and not focus attention on it. He says wittingly, “It’s one of the two biggest things men are insecure about and we won’t mention the other one. But I think we both know what we’re talking about. The more you try to cover it up, the more obvious it becomes.”
If you’re bald, invest in a good hat David & James Smith, Cads for Men, York (UK)
SPEAKING OF BALDNESS 14
About the topic of hair loss, James says he and his father know about it first-hand. “You’re speaking to a bald man, so I know what it’s like. I watched my father struggle with his hair and eventually decided to shave
HAIR LOSS? EMBRACE IT Mecedes Paginton, barbershop ‘Chipper Chaps’ Milton Keynes, Oxfordshire (UK) Mercedes has limited experience with hair loss treatments and solutions: “I have no experience working with any of the treatments. I have a few clients who have had a hair transplant, it changes something in their confidence, it is really great.” She continues: “If they can be comfortable with their hair loss and embrace it, that’s probably the best thing. But there are other options. Sometimes I use hair fibres, but you can’t use it
if someone is bald, because it enhances what they’ve got. Use a matching colour and sprinkle it on. The one I use is called Beaver hair building fibers. It is a good product. Even though it’s only a temporary fix, a lot of people get it if they’re going to a wedding or something, just so they feel a little bit better about themselves.” Mercedes is also a fan of toupees. “I think toupees are brilliant, they look so real. I’ve never had anything to do with them, but I think they’re fantastic when they’re done right. I’ve seen some dodgy ones online, but I think generally they’re very good.”
I think toupees are brilliant
it off. But a bald head suits me, it doesn’t everybody. My father ultimately had a transplant 14 years ago. He’s glad he did it.” He says customers often ask about hair loss management. “We have some guys who use Toppik. It’s a dust that clings to your hair to make it look thicker, without it looking unnatural. So there are things you can do, without having surgery.”
James says toupees are a no-go. “My dad had a piece for a while. I could never go down that route, but can see why people do it. Nowadays they glue it to your scalp, and it stays on for three months. That looks really good. It used to be like double-sided tape and if you’re sweating that’s no good – you’ve got extra bushy eyebrows.” 15
HAIR AND
C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R
The hair transplantation When speaking to my clients, hair loss is probably the one thing that causes them the most anxiety. From a receding hairline to the arrival of the bald patch, hair loss can have a dramatic effect on a man’s confidence and self-image. So what advice can we give to our clients? Over the last few years, advancements in hair transplant techniques and technology have now made it possible for patients to have access to solutions that provide real, long-lasting results.
I have seen some work with some awful cases of scaring 16
Two hair transplant procedures Hair transplants can be broadly divided into two main procedures, Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE) and Strip Surgery (FUT). The FUT method of hair transplantation involves taking a strip of skin with hair follicles from the donor site, typically the back of the head where the hair is naturally fuller and less prone to balding. From this skin, small groups of tissue containing hair follicles are separated and prepared for transplantation. While this is happening, tiny, individual holes
are made in the recipient site where they are experiencing thinning or balding. The prepared grafts are then individually placed into the recipient site. This type of surgery can take many hours, depending on the number of grafts placed, and patients are left with a permanent scar at the back of their head, which can be difficult to disguise. With FUE and more importantly Micro FUE/ U-FUE involves harvesting hair follicles from a donor site at the back of the head and moving them to create a fuller, natural-looking hairline. Unlike FUT, this method doesn’t involve removing a strip of tissue from the back of the head but rather collecting individual hair follicles directly from the scalp and inserting them into small incisions made in the recipient site. The main advantage of The Micro FUE method is that it creates a very natural and undetectable result. This technique can be considered a great leap in the field of hair restoration compared with other older traditional techniques.
LOSS FOUND QUICK-FIRE KNOWLEDGE A surgeon cannot transplant hair into very thin hair they can only implant into areas where they are empty gaps for the best results. This is because the new hair and the thinning hair would fight for blood supply the thin hair would die and the results will be not so effective.
Images © hairdresser Yves Galjé (NL)
Choose a qualified physician A good result depends on the surgeon’s skill. I have seen some really good work and some doll’s hair looking hair grafts with some awful cases of scaring. To avoid some of these potential problems you should advise your clients to do their homework. Advise them to firstly, speak with their doctor and then encourage them to do their research. No matter which method they choose they must work with a qualified physician. These associations allow easy access to information on hair loss and hair restoration doctors:
The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery The European Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons British Association of Hair Restoration Surgeons Full General Medical Council registered Registered with the Care Quality Commission. With all of these transplant methods, I would say that this is not a silver bullet - for most cases, your clients will still have to continue to use hair preservatives to prevent further hair loss.
When the hair is thinning all over it is advisable to use hair preservatives Minoxidil, Propecia, Esthecin and Viviscal Professional. Preservatives are also recommended after hair has been transplanted, this is to prevent any further hair loss. A good surgeon will always put a plan in place for future hair loss. Not every patient is suitable for a hair transplant procedure there has to be a large enough donor area to ensure and rectify problems if there is any further hair loss. Transplants do not stop the hair loss process. Body hair can be used as donor hair however it does have a different morphology with about 50% success rate. A surgeon would only use this type of hair on the crown. 17
CHARLIE CULLEN
BEST MALE COLLECTION TCT AWARDS
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Collection: Origin Hair: Charlie Cullen (UK) Photography: Alex Barron-Hough MUA: Katie Moore Styling: Manrutt Wongkaew @charlieculleneducation
UNITED KINGDOM
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Collection: Origin Hair: Charlie Cullen (UK) Photography: Alex Barron-Hough MUA: Katie Moore Styling: Manrutt Wongkaew @charlieculleneducation
MARC CALVACHE MONTALVO
BEST MALE COLLECTION TCT AWARDS
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Hair: Marc Calvache Montalvo Hair assistant: hair salon team peluqueria Marc Calvache Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Erick Teran @marccalvache.hairsalon
SPAIN
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Hair: Marc Calvache Montalvo Hair assistant: hair salon team peluqueria Marc Calvache Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Erick Teran @marccalvache.hairsalon
MARC CALVACHE MONTALVO
BEST MALE COLLECTION TCT AWARDS
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Hair: Marc Calvache Montalvo Hair assistant: hair salon team peluqueria Marc Calvache Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Erick Teran @marccalvache.hairsalon
SPAIN
Collection: Boys Hair: Royston Blythe and Anthony Osbourne Photography: Richard Miles Styling: Nick Malenko @roystonblythe, @anthonyjay_o
UNITED KINGDOM
ROYSTON BLYTHE & ANTHONY OSBOURNE
BEST MALE COLLECTION TCT AWARDS
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ÁLVARO TORRES DE CASTRO
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Collection: Beef Hair: Álvaro Torres de Castro (ES) Photography: Rodrigo García López MUA: Andrea Rivero Prieto Styling: Laura García Pola @lacarniceriabarberia, @oscarmr76
SPAIN
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Collection: Beef Hair: Álvaro Torres de Castro (ES) Photography: Rodrigo García López MUA: Andrea Rivero Prieto Styling: Laura García Pola @lacarniceriabarberia, @oscarmr76
JOSE URRUTIA
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Collection: 1941 Hair: Jose Urrutia (ES) Hair Assistant: Veronica Calpa Perugachi Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Nacho Sanz Styling: Visori FashionArt Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia
SPAIN
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Collection: 1941 Hair: Jose Urrutia (ES) Hair Assistant: Veronica Calpa Perugachi Photography: Esteban Roca MUA: Nacho Sanz Styling: Visori FashionArt Products: Revlon Professional @pjurrutia
CARMELO TORTOSA
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Collection: Collage Hair: Carmelo Tortosa (ES) Photography: Malia León Mua: Ariun para El Patio del Barbero @carmelotortosaalfonso, @oscarmr76
SPAIN
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Collection: Collage Hair: Carmelo Tortosa (ES) Photography: Malia León Mua: Ariun para El Patio del Barbero @carmelotortosaalfonso, @oscarmr76
ELI MINDSET
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Hair: Eli Mindset (AU) Photography: wildsaiko Model: @Bymello1995 @Eli_Mindset_
AUSTRALIA
Hair & styling: Chris Abbott (UK) Photography: Helen Roscoe MUA: Katy Bird Model: Alexander Anton @chrisabbott_barber
CHRIS ABBOTT
UNITED KINGDOM
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DARIO J. BRAUN & SANJAY RAMCHARAN
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Collection: Connecting Cultures Hair: Dario J. Braun & Sanjay Ramcharan (NL) Photography: Marie Burnet MUA: Hanane Naji Model: Domingo Rober @dariojbraun, @hairbysanjay, @depot_maletoolsnl
THE NETHERLANDS
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Collection: Connecting Cultures Hair: Dario J. Braun & Sanjay Ramcharan (NL) Photography: Marie Burnet MUA: Hanane Naji Model: Peter Jozefzoon @dariojbraun, @hairbysanjay, @depot_maletoolsnl
TIM SCOTT WRIGHT & JAMES NICKLIN
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Collection: Homme-age Hair: Tim Scott Wright & James Nicklin (UK) Photography: James Nicklin MUA: Stacey Ellen Simpson Styling: TSW art team @timscottwrightatthehairsurgery
UNITED KINGDOM
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Collection: Homme-age Hair: Tim Scott Wright & James Nicklin (UK) Photography: James Nicklin MUA: Stacey Ellen Simpson Styling: TSW art team @timscottwrightatthehairsurgery
TIM SCOTT WRIGHT & JAMES NICKLIN
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Collection: Homme-age Hair: Tim Scott Wright & James Nicklin (UK) Photography: James Nicklin MUA: Stacey Ellen Simpson Styling: TSW art team @timscottwrightatthehairsurgery
UNITED KINGDOM
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Collection: Homme-age Hair: Tim Scott Wright & James Nicklin (UK) Photography: James Nicklin MUA: Stacey Ellen Simpson Styling: TSW art team @timscottwrightatthehairsurgery
MERCEDES PAGINTON
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Hair: Mercedes Paginton (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Charlie Troops @mercedespaginton
UNITED KINGDOM
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Hair: Mercedes Paginton (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Alex Weatherhead @mercedespaginton
MERCEDES PAGINTON
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Hair: Mercedes Paginton (UK) Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Darius Browne @mercedespaginton
UNITED KINGDOM
Collection: CON Hair: Sonia Neri (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: De Maria @Pelsynera
PELSYNERA
SPAIN
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PELSYNERA
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Collection: CON Hair: Sonia Neri (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: De Maria @Pelsynera
SPAIN
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Collection: CON Hair: Sonia Neri (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: De Maria @Pelsynera
ALEXANDER KIRYLIUK
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Art director: Alexander Kiryliuk (ES) Hair: Kílian Garrigós, Inna Lipkovich Creative Team: SK Style Barcelona Photography: David Arnal MUA: Miguel Silva Graphic Design: Javier Villalabeitia @alexander_kiryliuk, @kiliangarrigoshair, @innalipkovich
SPAIN
Collection: Modern vs Rockers Hair: Matt Clarke (AU) Photography: Vuk Bortnik Models: Ethan Dormain, Matthew Jackson, Jonothan Lukin, Harry Bauman @the.sophisticated.scumbag
MATT CLARKE
AUSTRALIA
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CHRIS MATTICK FOR MOSER
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Collection: MOSER Roots 75 Years Hair: Chris Mattick, Lead Educator MOSER (DE) Photography: MOSER / Maximilian Kamps Styling: CEM Van Kay alias Cemre Xhaferi MUA: Seda Yüksel @chrismattickhair
GERMANY
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Collection: MOSER Roots 75 Years Hair: Chris Mattick, Lead Educator MOSER (DE) Photography: MOSER / Maximilian Kamps Styling: CEM Van Kay alias Cemre Xhaferi MUA: Seda Yüksel @chrismattickhair
SALON FIVE
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Hair: Manuel Ferreres Cabañero, Lavinia, Yasmina Bon @ Salon Five Photography: Esteban Roca @salonfive.pro, @manuelferreres, @yasbon_90, @lavi.b19
SPAIN
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Hair: Manuel Ferreres Cabañero, Lavinia, Yasmina Bon @ Salon Five Photography: Esteban Roca @salonfive.pro, @manuelferreres, @yasbon_90, @lavi.b19
TERJE LEIVSETH
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Collection: Rhapsody by CarTe Hair: Terje Leivseth (NO) Photography: Sofie Sund Model: Jonas wilhelmsen @terje1973
NORWAY
Hair & photographic print: Alexis Ferrer Designer: Txell Miras Photography: Rafael Andreu @alexisferrer01
ALEXIS FERRER
SPAIN
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SID SOTTUNG
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Collection: Dark Days Hair: Sid Sottung Photography: Julia Shok @sidsottungacademy
UNITED KINGDOM
The “Sweet Georgia Brown Hair Dressing Pomade” in the red can, is maybe the most classical pomade there is: a stunning, medium-firm pomade, originally from Chicago, USA. Everything about this pomade is great: the scent, the holding ability and the gloss. It performs ideally as a styling tool for your first use of pomades.
GROOMING
SWEET GEORGIA BROWN HAIR DRESSING POMADE
More information www.PomadeShop.com
MR SAM WALL “ELLO MATE” SPRAY A favourite of Sam’s, the “Ello Mate” Spray is used to design raw, beach textured hair, creating a messy, undone look, adding volume texture and control. Great at thickening fine hair and can be used on all types of hair.
More information https://www.hiddenheightsstudio.com/store
In memory of UK top barber Sam Wall, the profits of his ’Let’s ‘Ave it’ range will be donated to ‘the Lions Barber Collective’, a charity which is committed to raising awareness of men’s mental health. 53
GROOMING
DEPOT INVIGORATING NO. 105 SHAMPOO AND NO. 205 HAIR TREATMENT Products specially formulated to prevent and combat excessive hair loss No.205 Invigorating hair treatment. Researched and developed to prevent and counteract excessive hair loss. Enhances the scalp’s microcirculation, protecting and strengthening the hair from the bulb, helping to restore the hair’s healthy lifecycle.
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No.105 Invigorating shampoo against hair loss. Cleanses the hair gently whilst respecting the natural balance of hair and scalp. Particularly suitable for weak, thinning hair that has lost its vigour. Formulated with delicate surfactants and without SLES. More information www.depotmaletools.com
GROOMING
GRAHAM HILL FARM SCALP ENERGY TONIC Vitalising for the scalp FARM Scalp Energy Tonic forms the basis for strong and healthy hair. It stimulates the scalp and visibly adds volume to the hair. The special formula of panthenol and vitamin E stimulates the circulation of the skin and stimulates natural hair growth. Phytantriol locks in moisture and White Willow extract pleasantly soothes the scalp. The masculine scent of water bamboo, blue lotus and eucalyptus has a refreshing and vitalising effect. More information www.grahamhill-cosmetics.com
OSMO SCALP THERAPY DETOXIFY SHAMPOO If you are looking for the ultimate hair ‘refresh’, OSMO® Detoxify Shampoo is here! It’s designed to provide a deep clean and remove impurities that can weigh hair down and leave it lifeless. This ultimate detox fix leaves both hair and scalp feeling refreshed and revived. More information www.osmo.uk.com 55
IN SHOP
BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS FOIL SHAVER GOLD FXF52GE The professional gold shaver has been designed to achieve flawless trims and shades, becoming the perfect tools for extra-close shaves, cleaning hairline and net results. Its ultra-thin floating foil system delivers a safe, close shave without irritating the skin. It is comfortable to use thanks to its perfectly balanced design. More information www.babylisspro.eu
NEW HERCULES SÄGEMANN COMB THE SHORT CUT TIGER The Short Cut Tiger is the new and first comb for thinning out from Hercules Sägemann AG. This unique comb has a special shape that gives the hair a special structure when combed. Thus perfect and soft transitions with no steps as well as beautiful contours are created. An essential tool for creative and precise work, especially for short haircuts. More information www.hercules-saegemann.de
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LIFESTYLE
LES DEUX FRÈRES
Jacket Tintoria Mattei 954 Field Jacket Checkered
T-Shirt Forét Fish T-shirt Navy
Jeans Blue De Gênes Repi Saro Light Blue
Shoes Garment Project Mid Navy Nubuck
Socks Alfredo Gonzales Pencil Classic Light Blue More information www.lesdeuxfreres.nl
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BARBERS
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INTERV IEW
I thought I was too cool to say no
“It’s not once a criminal always a criminal. The past doesn’t determine who you are or what you do with your life. That says it all.” Jemuel Lampe had run-ins with the police and courts at a young age. Twenty years later, he found security and a future in the coffee business. Jemuel is committed to giving back to society through his company 'Zuivere Koffie’. Zuivere Koffie has the world’s first and only coffee roasting house located in a prison. 60
The coffee ritual is an integral part of the experience at many barbershops, with countless cups of coffee being drunk in barber’s chairs around the world. This is why we wanted to meet up with Jemuel to find out more about his coffee and his amazing life story.
Street gangs Jemuel Lampe (age 42) grew up in the Netherlands in The Hague’s Schilderwijk district, an economically deprived and multi-ethnic area where a large percentage of the residents live under the poverty line. Jemuel joined a local street gang as a teenager and did ‘some really
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INTERVIEW WITH JEMUEL LAMPE, EX-CONVICT AND FOUNDER OF ‘ZUIVERE KOFFIE’
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COFFEE THAT CHANGES LIVES
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I was still being stigmatised 16 years later bad things’. Jemuel: “I got caught multiple times and ended up going to prison. When I was 16, I met someone who gave me his telephone number and offered to help me make something of my life. I finally called him about three or four years later. He gave me a job at one of his ice cream parlours. That changed a lot for me. I soon moved up to the position of manager and, via a government scheme, I was even able to become the owner of the ice cream parlour a year later. That’s when I became an entrepreneur. Entrepreneurship changed my environment, and I gained a new network. I did my best to stay out of crime. That
went fine until one day I was asked if I could get hold of a small quantity of drugs. Despite being a business owner with a young family, I couldn’t resist the temptation to be the tough guy. So I bought drugs on a small scale. Because I sold the drugs to the wrong person, I had to go back to prison to serve a short sentence. That was a turning point for me. I never wanted to have anything to do with the police or courts gain and I swore to never set foot in a prison again!” He smiles as he says this because he’s often to be found in the prison, but now for his business. And he can leave at the end of the day!
Passion for coffee But how do you end up moving from ice cream into the coffee business? Jemuel: “I also served coffee in my ice cream parlour, even though I was a fervent tea drinker. Apparently, I could make a good cup of coffee, at least that’s what my Italian customers said. I was always trying different stuff with the coffee grinders in my quest to find the perfect coffee extract. I learned everything on my own and became a self-taught barista. This attracted the attention of a coffee entrepreneur who entered me in the Dutch Barista Championships. I ended up winning a place in the top ten
Straffe Bak This is the coffee with the highest caffeine content of all the coffees in the Netherlands. An exceptionally robust coffee.
Capsules 100% organic biodegradable coffee cups suitable for Nespresso machines in the NO.1 flavour.
Red Filter Especially for red-label coffee drinkers. A wonderful pot of filter coffee to drink at home, it’s to everyone’s taste.
Jailmail tastings Gift sets. Ideal as a business or personal gift or just as a thoughtful present that can be sent by post.
Light Decaf A soft caffeine-free coffee blend.
For more information: www.koffiebranderijzuiverekoffie.nl.
Zuivere Koffie coffees NO.1 This is the first blend Zuivere Koffie ever made. The blend has been perfected in collaboration with the world’s best master roasters and tasters. Power Chicas Coffee imported from South American plantations that provide employment to women who come from abusive situations so they can support themselves. 62
in the finals! Unfortunately, I didn’t win the final, but I did make a name for myself. I got a lot of jobs as a barista, also at events. I learned a massive amount about coffee. I’ve been living and breathing coffee ever since. I sold my ice cream parlour in 2004 and launched my career as an independent coffee entrepreneur. I went to Italy to learn how to roast coffee and did a lot of work for an Italian coffee company. I also worked for Starbucks and gave barista
Looking to the future “Achieving personal growth in tandem with the ‘Social Impact Maker’, under which all these activities fall, and creating impact together. Our goal is to have changed 500 lives by 2025.”
training courses throughout the Netherlands.” Giving back to society Jemuel continues: “But one thought kept crossing my mind: “It’s great that I’ve gained all this knowledge, but I don’t do much for the society in which I live.” I wanted to give something back. That’s when I opened a coffee bar where I hired people with a disadvantaged position in the labour market, including people with a mental disability. I was
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Stephan came into contact with Zuivere Koffie while working in the coffee roasting house when he was incarcerated. After his release, he went to work at one of the Zuivere Koffie bars as a barista. He also had his own shop-in-the-shop for Zuivere Koffie for a while. He now works in sales and hits the road every day to tell his story and sell the coffee, Guiltea tea line and Jailbird Bakery products.
What has it given him? A bright future, a happy family life, an income and personal development. Or has he puts it: “It changed my life 180 degrees. It’s a totally different life than I was used to. But not just my life, also the life of my children. They now have a father who gets up on time, goes to work and comes back home at the end of a hard day’s work.”
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The impact of Zuivere Koffie on ex-convict Stephan
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a socially-involved entrepreneur and attracted media attention. I told the media that I used to be a small-time criminal. It was shown on TV and that’s how people learned about my past. One of my clients, who I supplied with coffee from my small coffee roasting house, had a chain with three stores. They didn’t want to be associated in any way with my past as an ex-convict and also weren’t interested in my desire to work with prisoners in some way. They informed me that they no longer wished to buy coffee from me! It has been sixteen years since I’d seen the inside of a prison and I was still being stigmatised. I thought: “If I’m having trouble with this, I can only imagine how difficult it is for the men and women who are helping me.” That’s when I decided to focus solely on this group.” Earning a second or third chance “I was inspired by the British television series ‘Gordon Behind Bars’ in which television chef
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Gordon Ramsay taught prisoners at Brixton Prison to cook. Gordon opened a bakery in the prison called: ‘Bad Boys Bakery’. I had also in the meantime opened my own bakery, so I had an affinity with the members of this group who have the same background as I do. That’s when I came up with the idea of opening the Netherlands’ very first coffee business where ex-convicts would be given the chance to radically change their lives. I’d had the idea in my mind for a while and I then came into contact through my network with the director of Heerhugowaard Prison. He turned out to be an amazing prison director who believes prison should also be seen as a place of recovery. I had never heard someone say that people deserve a second or third chance. Or that a prison director believes in the people in his prison. Nearly 50% of prisoners reoffend after leaving prison. They often reoffend during the first days and weeks after being released. Look at my life, I didn’t get into trouble
just once. It is so hard to leave a life of crime, and someone must be willing to give you a chance. You’ve got a gap in your CV and if you’re open and transparent about what happened, there aren’t many employers who will invite you for a second interview. It’s just tough to get a chance. That makes it easy to fall back into old habits or get back in with the wrong crowd. It could very well be the case that your old criminal friends supported your family while you were in prison. Or they may have helped you while you were in prison by buying you groceries, cooking or whatever. So when you get out, you owe them.” From pilot to reality “So the prison director in Heerhugowaard said to me: “It’s great that you want to start something outside the prison, but why not open a business in the prison so you’re closer to the problem?” But I thought: “How can I go about getting a chance as an ex-convict in the
special barbers & coffee special our own tea-packing line called ‘Guiltea’ in the PI Nieuwersluis women’s prison. We now have a 15-member team. It’s great to work together as a team to develop these social concepts that have real impact.” Start on the inside to stay outside How does that work in the prison? “Every prisoner carries out some form of work every day. They’re usually simple activities. So you can imagine that many prisoners have been queuing up to work for us since we opened the coffee roasting house. But they are not all eligible for a work placement with us. We have strict selection criteria, and the prisoner must meet the following conditions: they must have demonstrated excellent behaviour during their incarceration and must be working on resocialization, taking an educational course and be
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prison?” He turned out to be the driving force behind all the social activities that we now undertake. So someone crossed my path, a key figure, who gave me a chance. Who didn’t see me as an ex-convict, but as a father and entrepreneur. Someone who believed in me – they really exist! In 2015, we began drawing up plans for the best way to go about starting the coffee roasting house ‘Zuivere Koffie’. We first started with a pilot in the Heerhugowaard Prison. The prison director unfortunately retired during that process, but he had good contacts with another prison director who embraced the concept. This is how we were able to open the world’s first coffee roasting house in a penitentiary: JC Zaanstad. We’re now also proud to have opened a real production bakery called ‘Jailbird Bakery’ and have
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Nearly 50% of ex-convicts reoffend motivated to take up employment after leaving prison. We are designated as a ‘plus’ programme that enables us to work with a selection of the prison population. They are the prisoners for whom we believe we can arrange a job if they are released after three to six months. Because that is the ultimate aim. We also started our own employment agency called ‘Aan de Bak’ this year. We have extensive contacts with employers in different sectors such as construction, hospitality, production and logistics. These are sectors for which you do not need a Certificate of Conduct from the Dutch Ministry of Justice and Security. We also certify coffee roasters and baristas. So there are a number of people go to work at coffee companies, but others prefer to start working as a chef, even though they’re very good coffee roasters. Zuivere Koffie has helped 80 people find permanent employment since 2016. Now that we are working through our ‘Aan de Bak’ employment agency, we hope to be able to gain employment for 500 people by 2025.” Jemuel’s most precious memory? “The most beautiful memory was when a prisoner’s daughter told me how happy she was that she had her dad back because he has a job. That was incredible!”
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The process of making coffee Jemuel explains the process of making coffee. The process extends from importing the coffee beans to a range of things carried out by the prisoners in order to ultimately produce the high-quality coffee that Zuivere Koffie provides. They source their coffee beans from around the world and each has its own characteristic flavour. You can compose flavour profiles for each country based on a sophisticated blend. The inmates also genuinely help to develop new flavours. They’re very engaged with the process. “There are as many different wishes as there are different people. The Dutch, for example, are primarily red-label coffee drinkers,” says Jemuel. Life changing coffee When asked about his plans for the future, Jemuel responds: “We are busy expanding to multiple penitentiaries. My dream is to launch our concept internationally. We already receive quite a few requests from other countries, and we’ve received a lot of praise from government bodies. It is obviously great to be approached by companies and people who believe in what you are doing. It’s wonderful to make a difference in someone’s life. That’s what we do it for!”
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Stephan in Barber Birdman’s chair. Barber Birdman serves and sells Zuivere Koffie in his ‘Amsterdam Dandy’ barber shop in Haarlem, the Netherlands.
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INTERV IEW
Q&A COLIN PETRIE (HARD GRIND, UK)
AN ALL-IN-ONE BARBER & COFFEE CONCEPT
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We wanted to provide a full experience beyond “just a haircut” and provide a space where you could kick back and enjoy any potential wait with a book or arcade games or consoles and the food and drink was a huge element to achieving this concept.
Do customers of the barbers also pay for their coffee if they are in the barber chair? We offer discount on any drinks if being purchased whilst in for a haircut. But Daily Grind stands on its own two feet as a café. So a lot of traffic comes in just for food and drink also whereas in the past it was all cut after cut and the odd person picking up a coffee at the same time. But thankfully grown and grown over the years into two free standing reputable aspects of the business in their own right.
What coffee machine do you use? We now have a few stores with cafes attached to them and always use the same set up with a La Marzocco Linea 2 machine. It’s such a fantastically built machine and will stand the test of time against all the new digital era of machines. What coffee do you use and where does it come from? We work with local coffee roasters Sacred Grounds Coffee Company. They are based from my home town of Arbroath in Scotland and a stone through
Do you have coffee specialties? All our staff are highly skilled baristas and we often have specials on our drinks including specialty hot chocolates or shakes. Or a guest bean from other coffee roasters every other month
Is it profitable? Coffee has a good margin but you have to produce a large volume. Most barbers will be used to £20 to £30 per service where as a coffee is £2 or £3. So the right product served the right way has to be paramount to build up a solid flow of customers to make it worth it.
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from one of our stores. We work closely with them on events and even our own Daily Grind bean which is coming soon for in store and retail
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How did you came-up with the idea of a combination concept barbering and serving coffee? Hard Grind was always set out to be a lifestyle store. Barbering was a huge element of course but was never going to be the soul part of the business. We opened from day one with a cafe / coffee bar and a huge retail section including our own Hard Grind Apparel line and grooming products plus other streetwear brands.
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BARBERS & THE CITY
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The BarberSociety team regularly visits other cities to gain inspiration. This unfortunately has not been possible during the lockdowns. But barber Andri Týr from Iceland has helped us out and put together an excellent report on the barbershops in the Icelandic capital of Reykjavik! His barbershop, Rakarastofan Herramenn, is naturally also included in the overview. We can’t wait to visit the beautiful country of Iceland and the barbers’ hotspots and their distinctive barbershops as soon as we can! 71
BARBERS & THE CITY
Barbershop Herramenn Hamraborg 9 200 Kópavogi +354 564 1923 www.herramenn.is @herramennrakarastofa Rakarastofan Herramenn is a local barbershop that was founded by Torfi in 1961. His son Gauti joined the business in 1978 and his grandson Andri Týr joined the team in 2003. Andri Týr now runs the barbershop. In 2017, the barbershop moved from the house where it had been located for some sixty years. While it was a challenge to retain the cosy feeling in a much bigger space, their fantastic customers moved the vibe and soul with them.
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The shop has for many years been a favourite place for regulars to get a good cup of coffee and to catch up on the local news while getting a haircut. There are few people that still pop in just for the coffee and chat, even if they don’t need a haircut.
Brauðkaup Borgarholtsbraut 19 200 Kópavogur +354 564 55 60 www.braudkaup.is
OUR HOTSPOTS
Jungle cocktail bar Austurstræti 9 101 Reykjavík +354 792 69 69 www.facebook.com/jungle.rvk
Foodcellar Aðalstræti 2 101 Reykjavik +354 558 00 00 www.matarkjallarinn.is Foodcellar is an amazing restaurant with good quality food and a laidback atmosphere.
Our other favourite place is a small local burger joint named Brauðkaup.
Jungle cocktail bar is without a doubt our favourite bar. They do amazing cocktails. They are so good that I had the bartenders at my wedding and everyone loved them.
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BARBERS & THE CITY
Stjúri´s The Barber’s Corner Kjörgarður, Laugarvegur 59 101 Reykjavík +354 511 1817 Stjúri’s The Barber Corner is located in the corner of the amazing clothing store Herrafataverzlun Kormáks og Skjaldar. The single chair shop is tucked away amidst beautiful interiors designed by Icelandic theatrical set designer and musician Axel Hallkell. It is almost booked a year in advance and the customers have to be quick to book at the end of the year if they want their regular time next year. The decor of the barbershop can be described as charmingly maximalist. It feels both busy and comforting at the same time.
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The reason people like to get in Stjúri’s chair is that they know that he knows what they want, and he does the job perfectly. OUR HOTSPOTS The local supermarket! Bónus is the local supermarket. Because almost all restaurants have been closed for some time due the lockdown, we have to do our own cooking! Pub: Ölstofa Kormáks og Skjaldar Vegamótastígur 4 101 Reykjavík, IJsland +354 552 46 87 It is owned by the same guys who own the clothing store in which the barbershop is located. So it’s the go-to place for everyone who works in the store.
Menswear store: Kormákur & Skjöldur (Kormáks og Skjaldar) Kjörgarður, Laugavegi 59 101 Reykjavík +354 511 18 17 www.herrafataverslun.is @kormakurogskjoldur This is the place where the barbershop is located. They have great quality clothes, including the Icelandic Tweed clothing.
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BARBERS & THE CITY
Barbershop Ragnars and Harðar Vesturgata 48 101 Reykjavík +354 552 4738 www.rakari.is @rakarastofa Rakarastofa Ragnars og Harðar was founded by Ragnar’s father Hörður in 1957. It is an old-school barbershop in the heart of Reykjavík that specialises in classic haircuts. Ragnar, who is now running the barbershop, started working there in 1974. In 2008, Hörður’s grandson Gunnlaugur started working with his uncle Ragnar. It is definitely one of the cosiest barbershops in Reykjavík. It’s one of few barbershop on the corner that is left here. It’s a relaxed and unrushed atmosphere.
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OUR HOTSPOTS Mathöll Granda (Grandi Food-hall) Grandagarður 16 101 Reykjavík +354 787 6200 www.grandimatholl.is My favourite restaurants can be found here! While all the restaurants in the food hall are great, Kore stands out thanks to its amazing Korean cuisine.
Bryggjan Brugghús Grandagarði 8 101 Reykjavík www.barion.is Bryggjan Brugghús has a cool atmosphere and the English pub is fantastic for watching sports. Kormákur & Skjöldur Kjörgarður, Laugavegi 59 101 Reykjavík +354 511 1817 www.herrafataverslun.is @kormakurogskjoldur The best menswear store in town on one of the busiest streets in the city centre, Laugavegur.
Some of these Icelandic barbershops will also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com/insider). Look out for them on the social channels!
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INTERV IEW
BARBER
I’ve been trying to bring back mullets for about six years
MERCEDES PAGINTON 78
BABE WE’RE ALL BARBERS Mercedes Paginton loves cutting hair. She talked her way into a job at a barbershop over ten years ago and has never looked back. Mastering a diverse set of barbering skills along the way, she put all her expertise, technique and passion into her entry in the British Master Barbers Barber of the Year 2020 contest. And she has been rewarded with a place as a finalist. She is glad to see more and more women entering the barbering profession and being accepted as barbers rather than female barbers. BarberSociety met up with Mercedes virtually from her home in Milton Keynes, England to chat about her love of barbering, learning by trial and error and emerging from the pandemic better than before. 79
Blagging into a job Mercedes started cutting hair as a teenager and talked her way into her first job at a barbershop. She explains: “I started cutting hair when I was at college. I’d cut all my mates’ hair and use my mother’s kitchen as a barbershop. And then I kind of blagged my way into a local barbershop. I said I’d been cutting for two years, which was true, just not professionally. So I had to do a couple of trial cuts and then I got the job.” Watch and learn From her first day at the barbershop, Mercedes set about mastering the skills of the profession. “I basically watched all the other barbers and tried out different techniques they
were using. Some worked for me and some didn’t. So I’ve learned by trial and error and worked up from there really,” she says. Today she has an impressive skill set and champions the return of the mullet. “I mostly do skin fades, but I’ve been trying to bring back mullets for about six years. So I’m happy they’re coming back into fashion now. I’m starting to see more men want mullets.” Pretty good for a girl Mercedes says she is happy to see more women entering the barbering profession and being accepted as equals to men. “I definitely see more women entering the profession. When I started out, there really weren’t any, now there are females in
most barbershops. We’re now seen as a barber and not as a female barber. After all: We’re all barbers, aren’t we?” Does she see being a woman as a benefit or a drawback? “I don’t see being a woman as an advantage or disadvantage in this industry. I’ve never experienced any prejudice from anyone in the industry. When I first started, there were clients who were unsure about letting a woman cut their hair. Sometimes they would assume you’re a hairdresser rather than a barber. I used to get comments like: you’re pretty good for a girl. But it’s not really a thing now.” Heart of the community The sociable side of the work is also something Mercedes enjoys. She says, “I work in a little barbershop called Chipper Chaps in a small village in Oxfordshire. It’s a quaint and pretty place. The client base is great – they travel from the towns surrounding the village. We have a good variety of age groups kids, school lads, young adults and customers who are in the 80s. Sometimes they’ll just pop in for a coffee, not even a haircut. It’s a wonderful community.” In it to win it Mercedes has gained a place as finalist in the British Master Barbers Barber of the Year 2020 competition. She tells why she decided to take part in this contest: “This competition is widely known in the UK, so it’s a good opportunity to get recognised. I’ve received lots of messages since placing as a finalist. So it’s been great. To be honest it is just nice to be a finalist – it shows you’re doing something right.”
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A modern twist on a classic style
Submitted competition photo Hair: Mercedes Paginton Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Ethan Baddeley
Showing a range of skills Mercedes put a lot of thought and effort into the photograph she submitted for the competition. “The guy in the photo is one of my best friends, so I have free rein when I cut his hair. I like sharp lines and definition. The Barber of the Year competition is based on a quite traditional barbering ideology, so my entry is a modern twist on a classic style and shows lots of techniques. I thought that might help my chances.” The style in the photograph features a mix of techniques, “It’s a skin fade, with an
undercut, texturized on the top, free-hand clipper and scissor work on the beard and styling. I used a blade as well, so I used a range of techniques.” Looking beyond the pandemic Mercedes is convinced the pandemic will bring a positive change and that the industry will emerge from the crisis better than before. “I’m hoping the pandemic will have a positive change. I think it’s shown what we’re worth. While it’s been a tough time for everyone, I’m convinced the barbering industry will
come out of the crisis stronger than before.” When asked where she sees herself in five years’ time, Mercedes says she wants to stick with what she has started. “I just want to still be cutting hair. I’ll do some more collections and I’d like to do a couple of guest spots in different barbershops so I can improve more.” What does she like about being a barber? “I love to be creative; I like the social aspect; I like making people feel good a whole combination of things. I just love cutting hair.”
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A L L I N T H E FA M I LY
James (l) & David (r)
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Individuality is what matters most
BRINGING TOGETHER 150 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE
Cads for Men in York, England, has been a central part of the York community since 1979. It is located in an historic building dating from 1747 on one of the most picturesque streets in York: Fossgate. Cads for Men was founded by David Smith. He has won over 30 national awards in men’s hairdressing, including the Yorkshire Championships, the North East Championships and the York Championships. His wife, Valerie, runs their very successful women’s salon. David’s son, James Smith, joined the family business as a teenager. He is now co-owner and manager. The father and son have been working as a team for some 25 years. While they have ‘their moments’, they work well together. David says that, besides being father and son and business partners, they’re also good friends. BarberSociety Magazine met up virtually with David and James to chat about four decades in barbering. And about how to grow a beard in ten seconds!
The Spirit of 1976 David Smith began his career in 1976 working in hairdressing at a salon. He went on to win one championship after another and mastered both barbering and hairdressing. David explains: “I started out in hairdressing in 1976 working at a salon in Leeds. Adrian Fuller, who was a partner of the business, was into hairdressing competitions and became a world champion hairdresser. I was his prodigy and entered me in various competitions. I won titles including Lancashire Champion and Northeast Champion. Someone I worked with at the salon in Leeds moved to York. We kept in touch and he persuaded me to move to York and set up a business together. I was only 21. We started Cads for Men in December 1979 and the rest is history.” Still going strong Cads for Men moved from success to success. “We opened
INTERVIEW WITH DAVID & JAMES SMITH CADS FOR MEN
our second salon in York three years later and a third in Newcastle. I eventually bought him out and sold Newcastle and franchised Middlegate. I bought Fossgate and we moved here in 2006. So we celebrated 40 years of our business just before Christmas 2019 and are still going strong.” The only constant is change What has been the main change over the past 40 years? “Men are really into looking after themselves. They’ll now spend money on skin care and hair products. I see that as the biggest change. We serve all different age groups. We’ve got younger lads with longer hair or skin fades, it’s all about feeling comfortable with your style. Their individuality is what matters most.” James Smith agrees with his father. “Lads are much more aware of how they want to look. When I started there were only 83
They got me my first set of hairdressing gear for my fourteenth birthday three products: wax, gel and mousse. Now you’ve got different lotions and potions for everything. I think many people now want to return to the more traditional, people like to have the wet shaves and traditional grooming treatments. Men like to look sharp. Lots of lads have skin fades. The mullet might even make a comeback – it just takes a celebrity or footballer to have a weird and wonderful haircut and everybody wants it.” Like father, like son James Smith tells how he got into the business and has never looked back. “It started when I was 13 working for my dad as a Saturday lad. I wasn’t interested in hairdressing back then.
But then it became apparent at school that I wasn’t going to pursue further education and my father said: You need to get a job. My mum suggested I take up hairdressing. So for my fourteenth birthday they got me my first set of hairdressing gear and I’ve never looked back from there.” Good friends What does James do differently from his father? “We’re very similar in how we cut hair – I’ve probably got more of a handle on the younger, fashionable haircuts, he’s probably more traditional, but he’s a very, very good hairdresser,” James says. He says that their working relationship has stood the test
of time. “We’ve worked together for 23 years and besides being father and son, we’re also good friends. We have our moments like any father and son, but we’re on the same page.” Father and son agree that experience and long-lasting relationships make Cads for Men distinctive. James explains: “My father set up apprenticeships from day one. There are three lads working here who were working here before I started 23 years ago. Our manager has been here for nearly 40 years and another two lads who have been here for 30 years. So collectively we’ve got about 150 years’ experience.” Lessons in life When asked what he’s learned from his father, James replies, “How to run a stable business. I don’t think people realise how much work and effort goes in outside of the job, such as bookkeeping. It’s also so important to treat your staff well. I was a member of staff until about 4 or 5 years ago when I got into the management side of it as an owner. Transitioning from employee to manager and owner has been tough, but with his guidance, I’m mastering it.” Getting through the pandemic While the pandemic has had a major impact on Cads for Men, David and James say they have adapted to the new situation: “We used to be a walk-in service and an appointment service, with 70 percent walk-ins and 30 percent appointments. We now have appointments only and walk-ins subject to availability.”
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Cads for Men doesn’t want to alienate their older customers who’ve been dropping by for a haircut and a chat for years. They’re not tech savvy and find the changes difficult. “We leave some spaces free for drop-ins – the older generation who don’t have internet and are used to just dropping by. They’ve paid our wages for 40 years and we can’t leave them out in the cold.” A beard in ten seconds James says his dad can fortunately always see the funny side of things: “We’d go on holiday with friends and he’d bet the kids their pocket money that he could grow a beard in ten seconds. They were like: No way! So he’d tell them to close their eyes and then get his toupee and put it on his chin. They’d open their eyes and he’d have a full beard. It freaked them out!” Looking to the future James says he is committed to carrying on the tradition of Cads for Men. “I’m committed to the shop and to keeping it going for as long as I can.” He expects his father to continue to play a role for many years to come. “He’s been saying he’s going to retire since he’s 50, but he’s still here at 63. Our job is very hard to let go of because of all the friends you make. He’d like to reduce the number of days he works and just do his personal customers.” His advice to barbers around the world: “Never give up on it, when you first start it can be the most frustrating thing in the world, but if you keep at it, it can be one of the most rewarding jobs you’ll ever get. It’s a privilege to cut people’s hair.”
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BARBERSRIDE 2021 HIT THE ROAD
& RAISE MONEY FOR MAKE-A-WISH
This year the ride of a lifetime is from Saturday 7th August – Thursday 12th August 2021 and will kick off in the Liverpool area, travelling around Scotland and with a finale night in Leeds. All ride with one goal: to have as much fun as possible enjoying the unbeatable sense of camaraderie that only a motorcycling road trip can offer whilst raising much needed funds for the MAKE-A-WISH charity. The event will give the riders full access to exclusive barbering seminars along the way, with some of the industry’s finest barbers demonstrating their skills ‘up close and personal’. This is followed by an after party each night before hitting the road again the next day.
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Photography ©www.iaincrockart.com / @iaincrockart
Born from a love of barbering and motorbikes, UK’s BarbersRide is a yearly charity event incorporating a 6-day ride and intimate barbering seminars with some of the UK's top names. Since the first ride in 2017, every year has got bigger and better with 30 riders taking to the road in 2020, BarbersRide’s 4th run, and raising over £27,000 for Make-A-Wish.
How it all started Colin Petrie (HardGrind), Richie Finney (Captain Fawcett) and Xavier Berrell (Red Hot Products) are the founding members, all supporting the ride every year. They have each been involved from the start and continue to be Main Sponsors moving into 2021. In 2017 Colin Petrie described how the idea was born: “I realised that many of my peers shared my love of riding. Whether it's because every person who is as stressed with business and life in general as we are needs a release, or just because riding bikes is so much goddamn fun. It is something that I have bonded over with lots of guys in the industry especially Luka Chitty of Lukas Barbers. After a few rum-fuelled conversations together with our brother Ryan Smith of SB Barbers, we decided to mix our loves of riding and barbering to raise money for two very important charities, Great Ormond Street Hospital Charity and The Lions
Barber Collective. We've always been about giving back and doing what we can for others and both these amazing charities are very close to our hearts. With major sponsors like Rockstar Energy, Captain Fawcett & Reuzel already on board, we also have official backing from HarleyDavidson themselves which we are over the moon about.” An epic experience Back then he wrote about his first BarbersRide (from Dundee to London): “Mechanics, HarleyDavidsons & a couple of showgirls – and that was just the cocktail list! As we’d made the most of the Bike Shed’s happy hour and checking out their impressive motorcycle selection, the BarbersRide crew were facing the London rush hour traffic…in torrential rain. The challenging weather conditions, tyre changes and the odd lost rider didn’t make it the easiest of rides but with numerous caffeine stops and the final goal always in mind it quickly became one of the most memorable and emotional rides
these guys have ever been on. Starting at Hard Grind, Dundee, they covered 900 miles; riding through the in-and-outs of Scotland and England – via iconic roads such as the Peak District’s Snake Pass, and stopping off at each of the barbering seminars on the way. The seminars themselves were a huge success and featured some of the most talented barbers including Ryan & Vikkie Smith, Luka Chitty, Wez Jones, Sid Sottung, Yucel Olmezkayaplus and Frank Rimer; talking through and creating both classic and contemporary styles. Possibly the most inspiring and definitely the most eye-opening of the talks came from Tom Chapman of The Lions Barbers who spoke of the importance in suicide prevention – the cause behind the BarbersRide. As the riders and their swarm of Harleys finally pulled into the archways of the Bike Shed, the noise filled the space with excitement, relief and 87
ALL FOR ONE AND ONE FOR ALL! Q&A with founding member and sponsor Richie Finney (Captain Fawcett) How did you get in contact with the other founding members? I first ran into Xavier Berrell at the London Barberbash way back in March 2017. It was a particularly crazy mad hectic stage with Joth Davies & Frank Rimer doing the honours. I started to tell Xavier that Captain Fawcett, along with Harley-Davidson & GQ magazine, were setting up a motorcycle tour of UK barbershops - he stopped me in full flow and said only the week before he’d met up with Colin Petrie of HardGrind who along with Luka Chitty & Ryan Smith were setting up a ‘Fades for Fuel’ tour! Rather than run two similar events we decided to merge and BarbersRide was launched in the August.
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What drives you to be a sponsor of the BarbersRide and participate every year? 2021 is BarbersRide’s fifth year. We have seen the event grow year on year with yet more riders and funds being raised for great causes. 2020 the first year of ‘lockdown’ restrictions saw the cast and crew raise a simply stunning £27k for the well deserving Make-A-Wish children’s foundation. Past rides have raised over £20K for The Lions Barber Collective, London’s Great Ormond St Children’s Hospital and the Alder Hey Children’s Hospital in Liverpool. Make-A-Wish, our current charity, works nationally so children from every region can benefit. It’s a genuine privilege for Captain Fawcett to sponsor the ride each year, knowing the incredible support ultimately spreads happiness to families in truly distressing situations. I’m in my element in the company of barbers and bikers so the ride itself is a joy. And being united on the road, riding with a real sense of common purpose - well the camaraderie is like nothing else.
Can you describe the experience of the ride? For Captain Fawcett to be actively involved both as a key sponsor and tour coordinator is hugely rewarding and satisfying to boot. For me personally, to see a bunch of higgledy piggledy bikers transform their riding skills over the 6 days is remarkable. Over 1200 miles, in all manner of weathers, this raggle-taggle bunch turns into a finely tuned, streamlined, ‘poetry in motion’, all for one and one for all posse. It is truly a wonder to behold. There’s no high like it. Enormously uplifting and really rather moving. It’s what life long friends and true fellowships are made of and I wouldn’t miss it for the world! It’s a hard ride... but what a ride! See you in August! AHTH
Remembering that first experience back in 2017 Colin now says: “It just grows each year. The fundamentals remain the same but the more people join, the bigger the camaraderie and experience.” Asked for his most fun and also his worst memory he reports: “It’s very hard to choose just one favourite memory. I think perhaps the final night though, knowing
we’d completed the trip all together and raised so much money for charity. It was an amazing feeling given how far the entire event had come from its inception. The worst memory is easy! Day one was brutal. The rain was just horrendous and the roads were crazy. Never ridden in anything like it and if not for a sold out seminar that evening we would’ve just pulled off the road and sought shelter as it was just that bad. Rain smashing off the floor, roads slippy and dangerous and just soaked through to the bone.” Proud He explains about his main sponsorship: “I am just insanely
proud looking back over the 4 years. From a simple conversation and quest with my friends to now a national yearly event with some of the biggest sponsors is crazy not to mention the insane amount of money we’ve managed to raise. I’m so grateful and honoured for the entire experience. Hard Grind will always remain a sponsor. BarbersRide is like my baby. I’m so proud of it and to be a part of it and hope to continue each year to raise awareness and money and maybe one day take the ride overseas!”
The more people join, the bigger the camaraderie and experience
sheer pride. Having raised approximately £10,000 (and counting) for the Lions Barber Collective and Great Ormond Street Hospital, it was time for congratulations, a well deserved burger and a massive party!”
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Individuals can ride the full route (6 days) or they can take part in legs (£40 per leg), dependent on where they live or the time they have available. Fuel, food and hotel expenses are not covered by the ride, the £180 is a donation to the charity to take part.
INFORMATION
Join BarbersRide 2021, 7th August –12th August 2021 The full trip costs £180 per rider which includes the following: Full access to all barbering seminars and after parties Six days of riding Britain’s finest roads Follow up rider support vehicle £75 goody bag from sponsors Exclusive sponsor t-shirts and BarbersRide pin Memories to last a lifetime
ROUTE 2021
Book now via www.barbersride.com/booknow Donations The aim of BarbersRides 2021 is to raise as much money as possible for The UK Make-A-Wish Charity who grant magical wishes to enrich the lives of children and young people fighting lifethreatening conditions. All donations are welcome and no donation is too small: www.justgiving.com/fundraising/barbersride2021
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We've always been about giving back Photography ©www.iaincrockart.com / @iaincrockart