BarberSociety Magazine international Summer 2021 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

INTERVIEW WITH SOFIE POK (AKA STAYGOLD) CHIP AWAY AT IT EVERY DAY TIPS & TRICKS ON HAIR COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPHY INCLUDING Q&A WITH DAVID RACCUGLIA AND LIAM OAKES

EVERYTHING I’VE SOUGHT AFTER I’VE ACHIEVED

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

SMP ARTIST TAYLOR PERRY

SUMMER 2021 | #8 | € 12,50

THE MASTER OF THE COOL PATTERNS INTERVIEW WITH ROBERT BRAID

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4 6 12 18 52 58 64 70 72 80 Cover: SMP artist Taylor Perry Photography: MaiTie Productions @taylorperry

86 89

EDITORIAL DREAMS COME TRUE Interview with SMP artist Taylor Perry BARBER BABE Interview with Sofie Pok (aka Staygold) TRENDS Gema Moreno, Juan Valdivia, Pelsynera, Jürgen Niederl, Wahl, Carmelo Tortosa, Wahl, Roberto Dallo Lafuente, American Crew All-Star Challenge winners: André Luís de Jesus, Christian Ríos Torres, Attila Can, Ciara Madden, Serena Hussain Hill PRODUCT NEWS Grooming, In-Shop, Lifestyle A PATTERN OF DISTINCTION Interview with Robert Braid A TOP BARBERING PHOTOGRAPHER IN FOCUS Q&A with Liam Oakes BARBERS ON COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPHY Eoin McCarthy, Mercedes Paginton and Pascal van Lith BARBERS & THE CIT Y Groningen (NL) Q&A WITH DAVID RACCUGLIA AND PHOENIX THOMSON On hair photography and the American Crew All-Star Challenge COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER The 5 Laws of a Hair Champion ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Pascal van Lith

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Writers Steven Walker, Marit Heemskerk Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

EDITORIAL

DREAMS COME TRUE

Miami-based SMP artist Taylor Perry is featured on the cover of this edition. Taylor has had SMP (Scalp Micro Pigmentation), and I wanted to let you see the amazing result. While SMP naturally dovetails with the spring edition’s special on hair loss and hair loss treatments, we’ve been able to draw more attention to his success story by presenting it in this summer edition. It is well worth taking a closer look at SMP because it’s becoming increasingly popular, and more and more barbers are offering it as a treatment. Taylor sees himself as an SMP artist who is a barber through and through. While his future turned out differently than he had imagined, he has made his dreams come true by always giving 100% to everything he does. An inspiring story!

Picture perfect Award-winning barber Sofie Pok (aka Staygold), who is an ambassador for the new grooming brand STMNT, has followed her own path. She has moved from success to success, but still wants to keep growing and gaining new knowledge every day. She is convinced that having the right mindset is key to achieving more than you ever dared to dream. By taking photos of her work, she learned to look at her haircuts from a more technical and critical angle. This turbo-charged her career. Read her compelling story on page 12. Photography has also played an important role in the success

of British barber Robert Braid, who is the master of the cool patterns! In addition to being a barber, he’s an avid photographer and believes photography and barbering reinforce each other. I always think his striking photos really stand out. You can check out a couple of his photos and read the interesting story of his remarkable life and career in this edition. While I too enjoy photography as a hobby, I’ve never worked professionally as a photographer. American Crew founder David Raccuglia has pursued photography professionally and this has enabled him to carve out a distinctive position for the

brand. A perfect opportunity to speak with him both about his love of photography and the American Crew All-Star Challenge. He’s very excited about the images he shot for the latest American Crew collection. I’m proud that he’s giving us the premiere sneak peek of this collection. We are also, of course, showcasing the work of the All-Star Challenge finalists on our trend pages. We are convinced that taking part in competitions motivates you to improve your skills. Our columnist and profile expert Chris Foster shares this vision. He has some great tips on how to become a barbering champion. Go for it and check out his tips on page 86!

for sure there are some hidden barbering gems out there and I look forward to seeing them shine through their images! Be sure to read Liam Oakes’ tips for effective photography. He is the top barbering photographer in the UK and his work has won lots of awards. And scan the QR codes to watch the making-of video of the INVICTA collection, a finalist in the best men’s collection 2021 Picasso Awards – Andalusian Hairdressing Awards, and the making-of video of the BACK TO THE PRESENT collection. Giving your all In addition to photography, which is a common thread throughout this edition, all the stories clearly share a message: you must give 100%, keep challenging yourself, developing your skills and putting in lots of practice. Because like Pascal van Lith, the 1994 Dutch Men’s Hairdressing Champion, says in the all-in-the-family section: ‘Nothing is served on a silver platter.’ While we all know this to be a fact, it’s good to be reminded of it every now and again and to get to work with renewed inspiration.

we have decided to postpone the event until next year. We’re confident we’ll be able to put on the fifth edition next year in a way that lives up to the high standards you’ve come to expect. I can’t help but dream that the 2022 edition of BSL will be bigger and better than ever! I’ll keep following my dreams. I hope you enjoy this edition and have a wonderful summer!

Marc van de Hare

Nothing on a silver platter I’m convinced that creating a first-class portfolio and submitting photos to contests or magazines can drive your career forward. That’s why I’m calling on all barbers to take the time and effort to build a good portfolio of their work. I know

BarberSociety Founder Owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

In closing Even though many barbers’ dreams have come true, you can’t always realise every dream. I dreamt of finally presenting our fifth edition of BarberSociety Live this autumn. But in consultation with our sponsors, 5

photo credits: © MaiTie Productions

INTERVIEW SMP ARTIST TAYLOR PERRY

INTERV IEW

DEAMS COME TRUE 6

Miami-native Taylor Perry has made an inspiring journey in the world of barbering. At just 37 years of age, he’s been in the barbering business for almost 25 years. His journey has taken him from cutting friends’ hair as a kid and his first job at a barbershop to owning his own studio and emerging as a top-five SMP artist worldwide. He is now also putting his knowledge to work to train aspiring SMP artists to excel. He says giving your all and never cutting corners are the keys to success. We met up virtually with Taylor Perry in sunny Miami to talk about making it big one step at a time. An early start Taylor Perry got into the barbering business as a teenager. “I started cutting hair when I was about 13 or 14 and enrolled in cosmetology school a year later. I started cutting hair in a barbershop when I was 15. In my second year of high school, I got a job at a barbershop and decided to cut hair full time. So I actually grew up in a barbershop.”

I’m going to take over this whole industry

Learning the ropes What attracted him to barbering? “In middle school we start caring about how we look. We didn’t have money to buy haircuts, so me and my best friend would try to cut each other’s hair with cheap clippers. Sometimes we’d get money to go the barbershop. We would then watch the barbers cut hair and learn by watching them. We cut some grass, saved up a few bucks and the owner of the barbershop we used to go sold us an old pair of Andis Masters clippers. That’s how he and I became barbers. I began cutting everybody in the neighbourhood and the owner of a nearby barbershop heard about me, came over to my house and offered me a job. He said: I’m going to teach you everything you know.” Taylor has now been

cutting hair for 24 years and learned how to make tattoos when he was 18 from his older brother who is a tattoo artist. Developing well-rounded barbering skills Taylor says the diversity of his clientele has given him a diverse skill set. “I’m well-rounded as a barber and am good with scissors. We do shorter hairstyles, but the pompadours, the slick-backs, the comb-overs are all very much in style right now. My clientele includes every ethnicity and style from short to long. There’s nothing I haven’t done.” He says the Miami mosaic of cultures makes his work more interesting and brings the world to his doorstep. “Miami is a big melting pot. I cut everyone from a street guy all the way to a lawyer, doctor, police officer – people from all walks of life. I feel like I’ve travelled the globe without ever leaving where I live.” Discovering SMP Taylor first heard about SMP (Scalp Micro Pigmentation) five years ago and was instantly attracted to it as a skill complementary to barbering. “We’re big on hair enhancements in Miami and I’ve been doing them for fifteen years. I saw Scalp Micro Pigmentation and thought: this is genius. I researched it and saw some work that impressed me and intrigued me to do it. But none of them are barbers, none of them are tattoo artists, so I said to myself: I’m going to take over this whole industry.” 7

The mix of barbering and tattooing turned out to be a winning combination. “I fell in love with it because I was really into hair enhancements, which is the same concept as SMP. I’d been doing tattoos since I was eighteen, but never did it a high level because cutting hair was my real profession. But a lot of people I grew up with went into tattooing and are highlevel tattoo artists. I sometimes thought that if I’d stuck with it, I could have been as good as them. But now I’ve found SMP and have attained this high level, so I’ve got the best of both worlds.” 8

Reinforcing skills Taylor says combining sound barbering and tattooing skills makes him stand out. “It’s all about the combination of barbering and a background in tattooing. I know about ink and colour theories. My SMP is the same style I’m doing in the barbershop basically. Some people might think I’ve had a career change, but I’m still a barber, I just do a different service.”

Keeping it authentic Taylor believes it’s important to be authentic and upfront with clients about SMP. “When I started out in SMP, everybody was portraying it as a medical procedure and pretending to be a doctor. I think that’s fraudulent. That’s why I’m straight up with people – it’s a tattoo, it’s a different technique, but it’s tattooing. I’m the same person as I’ve been in the barbershop for the last 20 years, I didn’t change my wardrobe and put on a doctor’s coat. I’m an artist and a barber.”

SMP isn’t invasive, there’s no down time, the second I’m done you can go straight to work or the nightclub. Plus it’s guaranteed – transplants are not.” Different procedures can, however, be complementary and mutually reinforcing. “SMP and other methods complement each other. Anyone going for a hair transplant, needs to get SMP before the procedure. The SMP artist can create a hairline better than the doctor can. SMP will make your head look fuller before the transplant, so the doctor will already have a nice hairline mapped out for him. It will make his transplant look denser. So they are complementary.” He continues, “I’m a fat boy, so I compare everything to food. It’s like pizza, you can’t make it without the dough. SMP is the dough, transplanting, hair fibre, Bigen, Just for Men hair dye are the toppings and everybody can make their own recipe that is perfect for them.”

@taylorperry

SMP and hair transplants Taylor says SMP and hair transplants can go hand in hand. “Everything has its place. But hair transplant is full-blown surgery, with a horrible success rate.

Gaining global success Taylor’s SMP service took off from day one. He discovered that his SMP services met a real need and attracted clients from far and beyond. “About seven months after I started in SMP, I got a call from a guy in Brooklyn, and he ended up flying to Miami to get it. He sent me 30 people from New York City. My phone started ringing off the hook with people from other states. Next thing I know 50% of my clientele is flying in from all over the place. It’s been surreal. I’ve done someone in all fifty states, plus Canada, Morocco, Costa Rico, Venezuela, Indonesia – it’s insane.”

Staying grounded His international success hasn’t caused him to turn his back on his roots. He still works in his studio with long-time friend and colleague Cisco Ortiez. “He’s been a barber for 34 years and I met him when I was 16 years old when I started cutting hair next to him. We’ve been friends ever since. He was my third SMP client. He took a course, got on board and so he’s been working with me now for two years. He’s doing great work.” Exacting standards in training Taylor also offers an SMP training programme for aspiring SMP artists. “It’s one of the best things I’ve done. I’ve been providing training for nearly three years now. The global industry standard is a three-day course given to people who know nothing about tattooing. It’s very hard to train them in three days, so I made a complete online course. It’s my whole curriculum with in-depth video and a very visual approach. So you can buy a course online and complete it at your own pace.” “I still do in-person training, but you must complete the online course beforehand. The classes are now super smooth, and the comprehension rate is through the roof. The success rate is far higher than it was before I launched the online course. I’m the only person offering this online course in the world. There are a couple of other online courses, but they’re all written. We have four hours of first-rate video productions. I’ve invested

I’ve travelled the globe without ever leaving where I live 9

30,0000 dollars in this and don’t cut corners.” He’s a firm believer in hands-on learning. “The guys watch me working on models throughout the process. They work on models with me. They’re paying all this money and fly in to see me – that’s why I give them my heart. My brand is my name, so if somebody’s coming to train, they better go home and do good work, because my name is on the certificate.”

PAUL HUMPHREY (41 YRS), BUFFALO, NEW YORK

Cutting hair is whatever you want to make it to be Words of wisdom Taylor says hard work and dedication pave the way to success. “Whatever you do, give it everything you’ve got. You can then be successful in whatever you do. I’ve become one of the top-five highest paid SMP artists worldwide. It’s unbelievable and something I thought would never happen to me. I’ve accomplished in four years some really amazing things.” Barbering is at the heart of his success, Taylor says. “I’ve become one of the top five tattoo artists because I’m a barber. I’m still a barber, so it’s crazy because when I was a little kid and started cutting hair, I never knew what the future might hold for me as a barber. Cutting hair is whatever you want to make it to be – you can be a millionaire or do it as side hustle. It’s totally on you – being a barber I’ve made all my dreams come true.” 10

DAME DAIGLE (32 YRS), CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA

I started losing my hair at 33. As a Barber myself, I know how hard it is to not want to give up and want to hold onto any hair you may still have left. About a year ago I started researching hair loss treatments. I found a place in NY that specialized in hair plugs. I went in for a consultation and they quoted me $40,000 for the procedure that wouldn’t guarantee permanent results. I expressed my concerns and they suggested I check out Scalp Micro Pigmentation. They referred me over to someone who wanted to charge me $10,000. You can imagine my frustration. I got online and began researching SMP artists, that’s when I found Taylor Perry on Instagram. Out of all my research and time spent online, I discovered that Taylor was the most talented SMP artist. I reached out to him and immediately I got a response back. In November I flew into

Miami from NY. Upon entering his studio I was immediately welcomed. I walked in suffering from hair loss and walked out of with a full head of hair, or the illusion of one so to say. I couldn’t be more happy with the results. My fiancé loves it, my family loves, and I love it. We are all very pleased with the outcome.

When I started losing my hair I did what most men do, I started shaving my head and wearing hats. I tried hanging onto whatever I could for as long as I could. I was first introduced to Scalp Micro Pigmentation at a convention and I began looking more into it from there. After learning that SMP was the answer to my hair loss I began researching tons of SMP artists, their work, before and after’s of their clients, etc. That’s when I came across Taylor Perry on Instagram. I began following Taylor’s work and he seemed like such a cool guy. I found there to be a lot of people doing SMP but their work lacked the craftsmanship when compared to Taylor’s work.

surgical procedure that won’t provide permanent results and that leaves holes in my head. Secondly, I already have tattoos on my body so SMP made the most sense to me and it seemed to offer the most natural and permanent hair loss solution.

So, I made my decision to go with Taylor. I actually never considered any other type of hair enhancement because for one, I’m not going to undergo a

Shortly after getting SMP done, I enrolled in Taylor Perry’s SMP Training Program. I’ve learned after going through training myself that it takes a lot of time and attention to detail. I can assure you it’s not as easy as it looks. As barber myself having had SMP done by the best SMP artist out there, I can now offer it to my clients and guide them in any way they may need. I hope to change their lives as Taylor has changed mine by offering an additional service to help restore their confidence. I look forward to what is ahead for me and I

When I walked into Taylor’s studio he immediately made me feel like family. From the start to finish the procedure maybe took an hour and half. It was pretty quick with minimal pain. After just one session I was impressed. I literally couldn’t stop looking in the mirror, I still can’t. Taylor has a very unique technique using ink and a needle that matches the scalp perfectly. I really love the way it turned out!

have Taylor to thank for that. I love that Taylor doesn’t look at his students as his completion, he knows he’s the best and wants every student to be their best. That’s why I chose Taylor. Be on the look out for me I’m coming and I give all the credit to Taylor. He’s a really great guy and I couldn’t have done it without him.

I can now offer SMP my customers after going through his SMP program. He has a lot knowledge to share and I feel honored to have learned under someone in his caliber. My plan is to be like Taylor, he started behind the barber chair, he got into SMP and I want to do the same thing.

SMP has not only changed my life by adding to my confidence but it’s also opened the doors to me furthering my career. As a barber, 11

INTERV IEW

It was a challenge for me to grow out of my shell

SOFIE POK

photo credits: @stmntgrooming

BARBER

Follow your own path

BABE Sofie Pok (aka Staygold) has been breaking barriers and forging her own path all her life. Growing up in California as the daughter of Cambodian immigrants, her parents envisioned her pursuing a career in law or medicine. But Sofie embraced her creative side and ventured off on her own path. She decided one day to give hair college a try. After focusing on women’s hairdressing for a year, she found it wasn’t her thing. She was more attracted to cutting men’s hair and got a job at a local barbershop. Working long shifts and gaining lots of hands-on experience, she was determined to develop her skills to perfection and develop a portfolio that would put her on the map. Her hard work has paid off. Ten years into her career, she is now a well-known barber with over 300,000 followers. Along the way she has won the 2017 Best Female Barber title and 2017 Men’s Shoot of the Year at Behind the Chair. She has also co-developed a product line for the new grooming brand STMNT and serves as an ambassador for STMNT and other brands. High time to meet up virtually with Sofie Pok to talk about bucking convention and building a career on the cutting edge.

Taking a different direction It was not a given that Sofie Pok would pursue a creative profession. She tried the conventional path of academics with a secure future ahead. But something kept pulling her in a different direction. Standing at a fork in the road, she decided to take an unexpected turn. “In my second or third year of college, I needed a break from academics. Coming from my very traditional Asian culture, it was very directed more towards law, medicine – so what they think is best for you. I decided to take a break, which made a dent in my family and disconnected us. I took a chance at doing hair in my second year in college.”

@staygold31

It all started with a friend asking her to cut her hair after school. “One day I said to her: I’m at a fork in the road and don’t know what I want to do. She said: cut my hair. So we went to my mom’s house and I used paper cutting scissors to cut her ends off. At the end of that cut, she asked: Why don’t you go to hair school? That was the initial thought that was put into my brain and, interestingly enough, I was curious about it. I thought: I’ll try it out. So I went to hair college and focused on women’s hair. But I decided after a year that it wasn’t my thing. So I reached another fork in the road and thought before I switch gears again, let me try barbershops. It just made sense and clicked from there. I was 21 years old at the time.”

Overcoming shyness Sofie was attracted to the fast pace and sociableness of barbering. She explains, “My attention span was less back then. So 15–30-minute slots made it feel more up-paced. I enjoyed getting to meet and talk with more people. At that time, I was still shy, so it was also a personal challenge for me to grow out of my shell.” Gaining respect Sofie entered a male-dominated profession and had to hold her own as the only woman on the team. “It was a very male dominated world. There were mostly men, and I was always the only female in the shop. There could be eight to twelve chairs – so it was pretty intimidating,” she recalls.

Chip away at it every day Her boss at the barbershop gave her some good advice. “He said: I hope you have a thick skin because this is where a lot of guys like to come and talk about anything. So he actually gave me a warning.” She says that she gained the respect and support of her male colleagues by demonstrating that she could make the cut. “Thankfully, I’ve always worked in family-friendly barbershops. They were definitely more accepting. They were sweet, but you had to gain their respect by doing the work and being really good at it and being a reliable friend in the shop. I’m competitive by nature, so if I wanted their respect, I knew I had to earn it by being busy, having good reviews and being sought out after in the shop.” Best of both worlds With her background in cosmetology, Sofie could tap into hairdressing and barbering skills to create hybrid styles. She explains how she developed her distinctive style: “The shop that I started growing in was a more traditional barbershop, with lots of side parts, small pompadours and clean fades.

Over time, because of my background in cosmetology, mine were more of the hybrid cuts - so you have a really nice clean fade, but at the top some really nice texture and good silhouettes of the overall look. I think when you work in both types of spaces you can see both of those looks, because barbers are usually stronger at fades but not very good at the top part, while in salons they’re not as good at fades, but are better at the top and have a nice overall cut. I felt that I had an edge because I was in between.” Joining the winners’ circle Sofie kept refining her skills and putting in the hard work needed to keep moving forward. Winning a major industry award marked a turning point and launched her rise to the top of the barbering world. “My career took off six years into my career when I won my first industry award in 2017. I remember it like yesterday: It was a big sigh of relief. Up to that point I’d been cutting hair six days a week with 8–12-hour shifts, because I wanted to get better. I never asked for a handout. So getting that award at Barbercon in New York in front of a packed

three-level house was amazing. I remember I got choked up because it was such an emotional moment. Everyone started clapping and I could feel the energy of the room and that they accepted and supported me.” Picture perfect Sofie is an avid self-taught photographer and says photography has helped her build a strong portfolio and gives her a way to objectively assess her own work. “I got into photography when I was in the barbershop and trying to build a portfolio. I had a hard time getting clients, because I was the only girl and people were unsure. So I thought: What can I do to attract clients? Develop a good portfolio. I started to use a basic camera to create images to make my portfolio more appealing and attractive to clients. I noticed a shift in the demand in the clients I would get because they would see all the details in the photos. The cool thing about using cameras is that it’s also a way to cross-check your work. What you can’t see with your eyes your camera will capture. So it made my technical eye grow with time.” 15

Developing photography skills Guided by her interest in photography, Sofie still shoots most of her own collections. “I still do most of the most photography myself. I’ve been shooting for about seven years, but the Pandemic has been the first time I’ve been able to dive into it. Being at home and having all this time, it’s given me the chance to research things and I’ve started taking a film course online.” Believing in the brands Sofie is an ambassador for BaByliss and STMNT. “Ambassadorships are very important. It’s also important to make sure it’s aligned with what you like to do. I am very thankful for how it’s all worked out for me. I’ve never jumped around from one to another, and I think that can ruin some brand credibility. I have friends who have lost out on big ambassadorships because of jumping around. So my advice is to make sure it’s a product you believe in.” Inspiring events Sofie believes it’s important to attend events and be a part of the international barbering community. “I always enjoy going to shows because you get to meet a lot of people and network. It’s also an opportunity to showcase your work and see what other people are doing. That’s what I love most about the international events because you get to learn about a different way of life. You get to see it all happen in one place and it’s so inspiring.” Sofie has never properly been to Amsterdam, but says she’s heard good things about BarberSociety Live and would like to come one day. “I’ve heard of BarberSociety Live and I would love to come visit. I’ve never actually been to Amsterdam but have crossed through the airport a couple of times.”

Sharing the knowledge Educating up-and-coming barbers is another of Sofie’s passions. She is preparing to take the next step as an educator. “I’m developing an online course – it kind of came from the pandemic which sparked a lot of new ideas for me. I’m creating this online space using everything I’ve ever learned to create excellent content that people can benefit from. I hope this will be a more accessible way to getting quality education on how to become a barber, both in terms of cutting and mindset. It’s all about getting our mindsets to a good place where we feel we can achieve more than we ever dreamed of. I want to reach a lot of people as a community of people through this programme. It’s more important than ever to have that kind of support.” Inspiring success When asked what inspires her, Sofie replies, “Time inspires me. I want to keep growing. So whatever I’ve done yesterday or last week, I should keep growing and expanding. I want to always do everything to the best of my ability.” Sofie’s advice for getting ahead both in life and as a barber? “Don’t wait around for that perfect try. Whether it’s social media, barbering, whatever, it’s about taking that little baby step towards that goal every day. Because it’s easy to overthink things and become paralysed. Chip away at it every day, because you’re going to make a lot of progress in those little steps and they will all add up.”

GEMA MORENO

Collection: INVICTA Hair: Gema Moreno (Antonio – Eloy Escuela Profesional) (ES) Hair assistant: Fran Sobrino Photography & Retouche: Edu Gómez Makeup: Lulú Pérez Styling & Designer: Álvaro De Olmedo Models: Cristopher Ishikawa, Sergio Espinar, Alejandro Fernández, José Herrera Products: American Crew Video: Infodelmedia @gema_more, @antonioeloyescuela

SPAIN

FINALIST BEST MEN’S COLLECTION (2021) PICASSO AWARDS – ANDALUSIAN HAIRDRESSING AWARDS

The making of INVICTA

JUAN VALDIVIA

Hair: Antonio Espinosa, Cristian Picardizo & Juan Valdivia (ES) Photography: Ángel Carlos @juanvaldiviabarberias, @oscarmr76

SPAIN

Hair: Antonio Espinosa, Cristian Picardizo & Juan Valdivia (ES) Photography: Ángel Carlos @juanvaldiviabarberias, @oscarmr76

PELSYNERA

Collection: UNDERWATER Hair: Pelsynera (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: De Maria Styling: Pelsynera @Pelsynera

SPAIN

Collection: UNDERWATER Hair: Pelsynera (ES) Photography: David Arnal MUA: De Maria Styling: Pelsynera @Pelsynera

JÜRGEN NIEDERL

Hair: Jürgen Niederl, Holy Tiger Barbershop Graz (AT) Photography: Stella Kager photography @grave_tiger, @holytigerbarbershop

AUSTRIA

Hair: Jürgen Niederl, Holy Tiger Barbershop Graz (AT) Photography: Stella Kager photography @grave_tiger, @holytigerbarbershop

JÜRGEN NIEDERL

Hair: Jürgen Niederl, Holy Tiger Barbershop Graz (AT) Photography: Stella Kager photography @grave_tiger, @holytigerbarbershop

AUSTRIA

Hair: Jürgen Niederl, Holy Tiger Barbershop Graz (AT) Photography: Stella Kager photography @grave_tiger, @holytigerbarbershop

Collection: Muscle Cars / WAHL Classic Haircuts Hair: Jürgen Niederl, Holy Tiger Barbershop Graz (AT) Photography: Wahl / Lex Karelly Products: Wahl @grave_tiger, @holytigerbarbershop, @wahlprogermany

WAHL

Collection: The Child Out (Surf) Hair: Carmelo Tortosa (ES) Hair Assistant: Veronica Calpa Perugachi Photography: Edu Pereiro MUA: Atriun para El Patio del Barbero Clothing: Glassy Europe @carmelotortosaalfonso, @oscarmr76

CARMELO TORTOSA

SPAIN

ROBERTO DALLO LAFUENTE

Collection: BACK TO THE PRESENT Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES) Hair assistant: Eva Fernandes and María Carmona Photography & Retouche: Estudio Kentaro Makeup: Eva Fernandes Styling: Francisco Javier Moral Designer: Roberto Dallo Lafuente Models: Iñigo Asiain Devora, David Iriarte, Adur Lafuente Jerico, Roberto Teiga Ruedas, Imanol Aranguren Iracheta Products: American Crew Video: Estudio Kentaro @robertopeluqueros

SPAIN

The Making of BACK TO THE PRESENT

Hair: André Luís de Jesus (BR) Products: American Crew @andrelj

BRAZIL

ANDRÉ LUÍS DE JESUS

AMERICAN CREW 2021 GLOBAL ALL STAR WINNER 47

CHRISTIAN RÍOS TORRES

AMERICAN CREW 2021 GLOBAL ALL STAR WINNER

Hair: Christian Ríos Torres (ES) Products: American Crew @christianriossalon

SPAIN

Hair: Attila Can (DE) Products: American Crew @attila.can

GERMANY

ATTILA CAN

AMERICAN CREW 2021 GLOBAL ALL STAR WINNER 49

CIARA MADDEN

AMERICAN CREW 2021 GLOBAL ALL STAR WINNER 50

Hair: Ciara Madden (IE) Products: American Crew @ciaramaddenhair

IRELAND

Hair: Serena Hussain Hill (UK) Products: American Crew @houseof_opulence_

UNITED KINGDOM

SERENA HUSSAIN HILL

AMERICAN CREW 2021 GLOBAL ALL STAR WINNER 51

CORLEONE STICKY STUFF POMADE Corleone Sticky Stuff pomade is the ultimate pomade that holds hair in perfect place all day. Suitable for a diverse range of hair styles, like slick back or quiff with a polished look. Great fresh scent. Unique formula created by the owners of New York Barbershop in Rotterdam, the Netherlands. More information www.corleonebarbersstuff.com

STMNT SPRAY POWDER 4G

GROOMING

STMNT Spray Powder is your secret weapon for rough texture. Great for crops and adding impressive texture and volume for messy effortless looks. The Spray Powder has an extreme matte finish, is a super lightweight formula and has Staygold’s signature scent: citrus, aquatic and woody notes.

STMNT is Henkel Beauty Care Professional’s new grooming brand that goes beyond the products. Created by three well-known international pioneers of modern barbering: Julius Arriola aka JULIUS CVESAR (@juliuscaesar), Sofie Pok aka STAYGOLD (@staygold31) and Miquel Gutierrez aka NOMAD BARBER (@nomadbarber). With STMNT they set a new standard for male grooming. STMNT is a brand with a purpose, bringing together a community that honors craftmanship. More information www.stmntgrooming.com

AMERICAN CREW® PREP & PRIME TONIC American Crew® introduces NEW Prep & Prime Tonic. A lightly-moisturizing and refreshing hair tonic that prepares the hair for cutting and styling, by adding a light hold and texture for increased control and manageability. Prep & Prime Tonic works to moisturize, detangle and refresh the hair and scalp, while providing heat protection. More information www.americancrew.com

Handmade pomades from Germany with spectacular fragrances that are inspired by timeless women’s and men’s perfumes. The Womanizer product range consists of six heavy pomades, six mediums and even pomades for women called “VAMP” (three unisex fragrances, also available in heavy and medium each). Behind

the brand “Gentleman’s Finest Pomade” with three firm pomades, is a collaboration between the well-known pomade brand Womanizer and the zombie specialist Exit Skin. More information www.PomadeShop.com

GROOMING

WOMANIZER & GENTLEMAN’S FINEST POMADES

BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS MASSAGER VIBEFX (FXSM1GE) Well-being and enhanced client servicing in your barbershop thanks to the VIBEFX! Ideally combined with warm towels, the VIBEFX will relax your clients’ skin and face. Applied to their shoulders, to the base of their neck, it will release stress and any tensions. Be the one that stands out! More information www.babylisspro.eu

THE DARK STAG KAMISORI STRAIGHT RAZOR

IN-SHOP

Attractive, traditional Japanese razor design – perfect for shaping, styling and shaving beards and moustaches. Changing the blade takes just two seconds. A standard double-edge blade can be halved. The Kamisori Straight Razor has a comfortable handle that’s easy to hold on to. A replaceable blade razor with a difference.

More information www.darkstag.com

HERCULES SÄGEMANN FLEXY SHAPE BRUSHES Whether detangling, styling, massaging or blow-drying, the new Flexy Shape models of the premium brand Hercules Sägemann are suitable for any application. The combination of high-quality boar bristles and nylon pins groom and detangle the hair at the same time. The extremely lightweight brushes fit ideally in the hand and adjust perfectly to any head shape. More information www.hercules-saegemann.com

Absolut Zero is the latest generation clipper for millimetric precision trimming, easy handling and long-life lithium battery. It’s the professional zero-cut and all-round clipper from Valera, Swiss Hair Specialists since 1955. The small, easy to handle professional tool is compact and precise like a trimmer, yet powerful like a clipper. Its extra durable, 42 mm wide Dura Blade diamond-ground blades made of Japanese steel ensure clean and precise cuts. It can be used as an all-in-one device for beard, hair, contours, and body hair. Thanks to universal voltage of 100-240 V, Absolut Zero can be used when travelling worldwide. More information www.valera.com

IN-SHOP

VALERA ABSOLUT ZERO CLIPPER

LIFESTYLE

e-bikes

e-bikes e-bikes

1 Italjet Ascot Classic 2 Rayvolt Ambassador

LIFESTYLE

3 B4 Indian Red 4 Rayvolt Torino 5 WATT Montreal 6 KNAAP Black Edition

More information www.welectric.nl 57

INTERV IEW

A PATTERN

INTERVIEW WITH ROBERT BRAID

OF DISTINCTION Robert Braid is a pioneer in exploring the artistry of barbering. His career spans more than 20 years. The first to begin cutting patterns, he unleashed a creative wave that took the world by storm. He was also an early adopter of social media as a means for building his brand and business. An avid photographer, he believes photography and barbering reinforce each other. He co-owns two award-winning barbershops in the UK together with his brother. We met up virtually with Robert to talk about barbering as an artform, tapping into social media and a passion for photography.

First steps in the business Robert’s first steps in the barbering world were at his father’s hairdressing salon. “I went to work in my father’s salon when I was seventeen. I really enjoyed being in the salon and loved the atmosphere and the creative side of it. So I thought I’d give it a go. Barbering wasn’t a big thing back then. So I became a women’s hairdresser and remained in that position for ten years.”

Exploring new frontiers After a decade in hairdressing, Robert wanted a change and had an adventurous plan. “I wanted to travel around the world. So I left my dad’s business and went off to pursue other things. My aim was to become a scuba diver instructor in the summer and a snowboard instructor in the winter. So I went to Thailand to do my Dive Master. My plan was to work in Australia as a scuba diver and then as a snowboard instructor in New Zealand in the correct seasons. But when I got to Thailand, I fell in love with the Asian culture and the Buddhist way of life and decided to see more of Asia.” Capturing memories It was during his travels that Robert discovered his passion and talent for photography. “I picked up a camera when I was in Thailand. At first, I was taking pictures of sunsets and temples, but then I realised once you’ve seen one sunset you’ve seen them all. But it’s a different story when you photograph people: you can 59

see the differences in the culture by what they are wearing and doing. That’s when I decided to document my travelling by taking pictures. It was a way to capture the culture of these countries and document my experiences. That’s how I got into photography.” Getting into barbering Robert became interested in barbering when he saw celebrities venturing into more creative styles. “When I was travelling, I watched the World Cup in Burma and David Beckham came out with a funky haircut, like a mohawk with a line in it. I thought: Barbering is becoming a lot more interesting. So I decided that when I got back to the UK, I wanted to get into men’s hair. When I started in barbering, I took the knowledge I had gained in hairdressing and put it into men’s hair.”

A pattern for success “My brother and I opened a barbershop in the back of my dad’s salon, and so I was basically self-taught. Barbering was becoming a lot more interesting with mohawks, mohicans, textured on top and textured crops. I started introducing lines in people’s hair and then took it to another level. I was doing lots of patterns in people’s hair and I became wellknown for this work. No one else was doing it at the time.” “I started doing all the pattern work and I used to get people standing outside watching me do the patterns as if I were creating an artwork on a canvas. And then the pattern thing exploded, and it became too popular, making it a bit common and outdated.”

Discovering Instagram Robert was an early adopter of Instagram and has successfully leveraged social media to build his brand and business. He explains: “About six years ago somebody introduced me to Instagram. The first barbers I saw on Instagram were Schorem. I was completely blown away by it. They were well-known for promoting themselves on Instagram, so I decided to get on Instagram and start promoting our business. That’s when I began using my photography. I started taking pictures of my haircuts. Only Schorem (NL) and Kevin Luchmun (UK) were taking professional pictures back then to promote their haircuts and business.” Instagram gave a real boost to his business and attracted a more diverse clientele, he says. “Our brand - Braid Barbers suddenly exploded because people found it interesting to see good photos of haircuts and models. We saw our business grow in tandem with Instagram. We started to attract more and different clients, including trendfollowers and trendsetters. They would see my work on Instagram and think: I want to go to him.” The total package He says it’s important to focus on more than just the haircut. “It wasn’t just about the haircut, it was about the cut, the look, the style and capturing the whole essence of it. You’re selling the whole look. Customers get interested in that look and that’s how the look sells. It doesn’t just sell because of the haircut, but because of everything.” Reinforcing skills Robert explains that photography served as a means for improving his barbering work: “When I started taking pictures of my work, I wasn’t that good at cutting hair. But because I was taking pictures of my work, I was able to analyse my haircuts and it made me want to improve

Hair: Robert Braid Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Zach Dowling Location: Panik Design Products: L3VEL3 @r.braid

Hair: Robert Braid Photography: Liam Oakes Model: Ralph Jordan Stylist: Paul Overton (Panik Design) Candle: Koff Gold Skull Candly by Panik Design Products: L3VEL3 @r.braid

We saw our business grow in tandem with Instagram them and learn new techniques. Photography helped me push my haircuts and new haircuts made we want to improve my photography.” Back to basics “When our social media and Instagram were exploding about five years ago, I was doing a lot of creative work and focusing mainly on promoting the business on Instagram. I would pick and choose the clients I was doing, be creative and do social media.” “Everything has been changed through Covid. I now have to concentrate less on social media and more on getting the business back up and running. We’re at half capacity compared to 2019, so I’m doing less social media work and concentrating more on the business side of things. I’ve

had to cut down on my staff by half and now I don’t have as much time on my hands as I did to do these creative haircuts and photo shoots and social media – it’s going back to basics and the roots of barbering. My business is slowly but surely coming back and there is light at the end of the tunnel.” Making clients feel good Robert says it is more important than ever to make clients feel good. “We should all just hang in there. Go back to our roots and remember why we love barbering in the first place. It’s all about looking out for the client. Sure a client comes in for a good haircut, but equally for a great conversation and some positivity. We all struggle in our own way and it’s now more important than ever to make clients feel good.”

T H E M E : P H OTO G R A P H Y A N D AWA R D -W I N N I N G C O L L ECT IO N S

LIAM OAKES IN FOCUS 64

It’s a name that repeatedly comes up when we ask who photographed an award-winning collection: Liam Oakes. He has made a name for himself as the go-to photographer for barbers. His work has been featured in a range of publications worldwide, with his images often taking pride of place on the covers of the UK’s leading barbering magazines. He collaborates with barbers to capture their cuts in photographs that are striking, unconventional and distinctive. We met up virtually with Liam Oakes to learn more about the man behind the lens and his vision on award-winning photography.

Could you tell us a bit about yourself and your background as a photographer? I started photographing 18 years ago as part of my college course of illustration and graphic design. I enjoyed the photography side of the course more than the design side, so I later went on to do a college course in photography and onto higher education at university studying and completing my foundation degree. I ended up dropping out of my final degree year because I stopped enjoying the work as it was more writing based rather than photography. I’m more of an artist than academic. I started out photographing bands at first and the occasional wedding, this went on for a few years. I worked at a photography studio as a digital artist and editor, as this was my main income. I stopped photographing for a while until the company went bust and I started to look for other work and this is where my journey in the hair industry started.

Why do you enjoy working with barbers? I enjoy working with barbers because I’ve always been interested in portraiture but loved how interesting hair images could be. I find it a challenge to capture an interesting portrait that also shows off the hair well. A good portrait photographer doesn’t necessarily make a good hair photographer as there are far more elements to contend with when trying to showcase the hair.

How did you become so well-known in the barbering world? I first started working in the hair industry when I began working for Apothercary87 who at the time were a new company making beard oils. I shot their first campaign and a few months later went on to be employed by the company as their in-house photographer, content creator and social media manager. As the company grew and found its core brand guidelines, I felt like the direction I wanted to go with my photography no longer fit within the brand guidelines and felt I needed a change. This came at a time when I went travelling and relocated to the north east of England. I kept in contact with all the barbers and brands I’d met over the years working for Apothecary87 and continued to work self-employed in the industry. 65

Collection: Project X Hair: Robert Braid Photography: Liam Oakes @liamoakesphoto

How many of your photographs for barbers have won awards? I haven’t counted how many awards my images have won but there have been many images either won or come runner up or made the finals.

Why do you think these photographs are award-winning? I think a winning image is because of a number of factors, firstly and most importantly is the hair has to be on point. Secondly, the image must be strong and well lit, choosing the right photographer is key. You need a hair photographer, not just someone who can take good pictures. The model choice is also very important as this will make or break an image.

Do you have any tips for creating a ‘winning collection’?

Do you also take photographs for barbers outside the UK? I am yet to travel abroad to shoot any barbering collections outside the UK, though this is an area I would definitely be interested in. I have recently been filming a lot of video content in the UK for the American brand Level3.

Which icons of the barbering world have you collaborated with in the past? I have collaborated and worked with some of the best barbers in the UK either at shows, in a studio or at barbershops. Names such as Robert Braid, Alan Beak, Cal Newsome, Hayden Cassidy, Sam Bentham, Sid Sottung, Baldy, James Beaumont, Tom Baxter, Mike Taylor, Joth Davies, Collin Petrie, Lukka Chitty and many more.

Model: Think very hard and search for the correct model to show the haircut you want, the model needs to have great hair to work with and a good overall look. Take note of fashion and advertisement images and past winners, see how strong their models are, if you get your model wrong or just use a mate for convenience, it just won’t work. Styling: Think about what clothes your model is wearing and style them to match the haircut, think about clothing that’s interesting. Photographer: Choose the right photographer that you know can capture your vision and talk about what you’re trying to achieve and what’s important to capture. 67

Do you have any pointers for barbers who want to increase their odds of winning an award? Create a team! The more hands on deck, the better the outcome. Don’t try and do everything yourself, people come to you for a haircut because you’re good at what you do. Sure they could cut it themselves, but they wouldn’t do as good a job as you can. Same applies for a photoshoot, hire professionals to do the job, be it MUA or stylists, photographer or model. Set yourself a budget for the shoot, you will need to pay for something so think about how to split your budget, you can borrow clothes and use the space you have available to save money, but the two things that will help your shoot win is both the photographer and model choice.

How much can you expect to pay for a photo shoot? The rates vary per job and per photographer depending on experience, you can expect to pay anything between £300 to £3000 for a photographer for the day and the same applies for models. You just have to work within your budget. Studio hire costs would usually be around £200 per day. 68

What are your plans for the future? Where do you see yourself five years from now? Five years from now I’d like to still be working within the hair industry, I love working with barbers and creating content for barbers. I would like to continue doing that, but I’d like to focus more on the hairdressing side of things. I think hairdressers get it and take photoshoots seriously and understand the importance of a team. I would love to be working for more brands and big advertising campaigns.

Collection: Project X Hair: Robert Braid Photography: Liam Oakes @liamoakesphoto

BARBERS ON PHOTOGRAPHY 70

T H E M E : P H OTO G R A P H Y A N D AWA R D -W I N N I N G C O L L ECT IO N S

Eoin McCarthy AREA Studio & Academy, Melbourne (AU), winner 2020 International Men’s Collection for his ‘Unity in Diversity’ collection The choice of photographer is key when it comes to a collection, Eoin McCarthy says. “I worked with a fantastic photographer named Sean Higgins for my collection. My advice on choosing a photographer is to find someone who shares your vision. You pay for what you get – you have to speculate to accumulate. See it as an investment that will come back to you ten-fold.”

You get what you pay for

Mecedes Paginton Barbershop ‘Chipper Chaps’ Oxfordshire (UK), finalist in the British Master Barbers Barber of the Year 2020 competition Mercedes Pagington believes in collaborating with a photographer to create winning images. “I always use a professional photographer. I can do a good haircut, but they can capture it a lot better. I normally use Liam Oakes; he’s really sought after in the UK. He’s brilliant and can capture an image to really show off the angles and contours. I love photo shoots. When doing an editorial, it’s definitely better to use a photographer who knows what they’re doing. It’s an investment for the future.”

Use a professional photographer Make a plan

Pascal van Lith Kings Barbers, Den Bosch (NL), award-winning barber in the ‘90’s “Hold a brainstorm session in advance to talk about the style you want to convey. Create a lookbook to get a clearer picture of your idea. Engage a stylist or make-up artist. Collaborate with a good photographer and discuss with him or her beforehand the atmosphere or vibe you want the photos to get across. Think about the location and whether there is sufficient light. In short: Make a plan and don’t wing it.”

72 72

BARBERS & THE CITY

The BarberSociety team regularly visits cities abroad to gain inspiration. Due to the Covid-19 travel restrictions, we have stayed in our home country of the Netherlands this time. We took the opportunity to visit barbershops in the beautiful city of Groningen in the northernmost part of the Netherlands! We asked local barbers to share their hotspots that you shouldn’t miss when visiting Groningen. 73

BARBERS & THE CITY

De Zwarte Raaf Folkingestraat 25 9711 JT Groningen 050 785 1501 www.de-zwarteraaf.nl @de_zwarteraaf De Zwarte Raaf was the first barbershop to open its doors in Groningen! Today De Zwarte Raaf has four locations in Groningen. We visited the classic 50s-style barbershop located on Folkingestraat. The style, the scent, the music and the craftsmanship are at the heart of this old-style barbershop. Step into a world where you can sit back, relax and enjoy the company of other men. Treat yourself and have a ‘Black Raven Barber’ give you a top-notch cut and shave. These barbers are in a class of their own because they have each successfully

completed an internal training course given by Ronald de Bont, an icon of the Dutch barbering world. In addition to providing classic barber treatments, De Zwarte Raaf also has an exclusive barber boutique. ONZE HOTSPOTS The Dog’s Bollocks Oude Boteringestraat 17 Groningen www.thedogsbollocks.nl The Dog’s Bollocks is a Britishstyle pub offering an amazing selection of beers, whiskeys and burgers. You can eat, drink and be merry all while watching your favourite sports competition. Located in the heart of Groningen, it’s the perfect place to tuck into the best burger you’ll ever eat in your life.

De Wolkenfabriek Suikerlaan 18 Groningen www.dewolkenfabriek.com A hotspot in a sugar factory! De Wolkenfabriek (The Cloud Factory) is a stunning and stylish venue. You’ll be on cloud nine as you take in the unique ambience of the former sieving plant building located on the grounds of the iconic Suikerunie complex. It’s a great place to enjoy a first-rate meal surrounded by towering industrial elements. De Wolkenfabriek also regularly presents live concerts. So get your head in the ‘clouds’ for a unique Groningen experience in an authentic industrial setting.

BARBERS & THE CITY

Moustache Barbershop A-straat 3 9718 CP Groningen 050 318 76 56 www.moustache-barbershop.nl @moustachebarbershop Young dudes, dope sneakers, self-designed interior, fashion and, above all, lots of corny humour. That’s what sets Moustache Barbershop apart. Ben Claasen founded this barbershop in 2013. Ben has more than 18 years’ experience in the business. While he first started Moustache Barbershop on his own, through the years he has passed on his expertise to numerous young talents who now work with him in his barbershop in Groningen or at the fantastic second location in Leeuwarden, the Netherlands.

Ben shares the story of Moustache: “What makes Moustache unique is that, despite the rapidly growing number of clients, our philosophy has always stayed the same: we’re committed to being a small shop where every client receives professional and personal service. We believe in providing tailor-made advice and have made a conscious decision to use products that are cruelty-free, vegan and sustainably produced. Are you not a dog lover? Then you’ll have to find another barbershop. Because our Frenchies Whopper and Nori are chronically starved for attention and will just keep staring up at you pitifully until y ou give in and rub their belly.”

ONZE HOTSPOTS Bellami’s Bar á Manger Grote Kromme Elleboog 13 Groningen 050 204 2798 www.bellamis.nl This is without a doubt the best and most beautiful restaurant in Groningen. You feel like you’ve stepped into a classic bistro in Paris. Everything is perfect down to the last detail. The service and food are always exquisite! Bistro Boys Folkingestraat 46 Groningen 050 2803224 www.bistroboys.nl We haven’t been in a bar for a year due to Covid-19, but as soon as we can we’ll start running back to the Bistro Boys for after-work drinks at the bar! And we’ll then

have them spread out any array of tasty bites on the bar. Bistro Boys is run by two young and hip guys who’ve succeeded in creating a cool, new-school bistro. Cleding Raad Zwanestraat 9 Groningen 050 851 1855 www.cledingraad.nl The home of trendy new brands in Groningen. Clement stands at the helm of this unique menswear shop. Many customers call it a ‘clubhouse’ and that’s really what it is. Somewhere where you feel right at home and where you’re always welcome to take a break from shopping to enjoy a coffee or afternoon drink. Cleding Raad features a wide range of Scandinavian and Dutch brands and a selection of outdoor gear.

BARBERS & THE CITY

Amoeri Barbershops Gedempte Zuiderdiep 37 9711 HB Groningen 050 204 61 74 www.barbershopamoeri.nl @amoeribarbershops Think of an authentic barbershop with Groningen roots and you immediately think of Amoeri. With three locations in the city centre, Amoeri has made a name for itself since its establishment in 2015. They‘re known for the cool authentic ambience, the first-rate service and the impeccable quality of their cuts and shaves. Amoeri also exudes tranquillity and trust; they take the barbers‘ code very seriously at Amoeri! ‘You can trust your Amoeri barber with secrets you can’t tell your wife,’ says Amoeri owner Emeer Albadawi.

ONZE HOTSPOTS Houdt van Eten Herestraat 96 Groningen 050 318 56 66 www.houdtvaneten.nl Houdt van Eten serves up great fresh seasonal fare with extra helpings of enthusiasm and passion. It‘s a welcoming place where you can enjoy great food, heartfelt hospitality and a relaxed atmosphere. Why is this restaurant so popular? The service and the menu that changes monthly. Visit after visit, guests are surprised by the latest selection of delicious meat, seafood and vegetarian starters and mains.

Beachclub Vifero Strandweg 4 Kropswolde 06 128 21 876 www.beachclubvifero.nl There’s no better place in the Northern part of Groningen province to enjoy a great vibe and stunning views than Beachclub Vifero. The beach club is located on the shores of the Zuidlaardermeer lake. It boasts a restaurant, large terrace and a beach terrace. What terms describe this lakeside club? Beautiful, fun, stylish, contemporary, warm and friendly service. A perfect spot to enjoy lunch, drinks or dinner. Highly recommended!

These barber shops in Groningen will also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com/ insider). Look out for them on the social channels!

T H E M E : P H OTO G R A P H Y A N D AWA R D -W I N N I N G C O L L ECT IO N S

David Raccuglia is not only the founder of American Crew, but he is also a renowned photographer. Photography plays an important role at American Crew, both in their campaigns and also in the brand’s annual styling competition that centers around hair photography: ‘the American Crew All-Star Challenge’. We met up virtually with David and Phoenix Thomson, Global Education Director, to learn more about hair photography and the competition itself.

Q&A WITH DAVID RACCUGLIA, AMERICAN CREW FOUNDER AND PHOENIX THOMSON, GLOBAL EDUCATION DIRECTOR

David Raccuglia during a photo shoot a photographer for American Crew. For me it was always as hair first, photography second. I made sure I was shooting to get the best representation of a hairstyle. My aim was to separate American Crew from the pack by making us and our campaigns look different through hair photography. Eventually photography became a passion in itself and I started working outside of the hair industry, shooting fashion campaigns and portraits and delved into the true tangent of a real photographer. Since then I have had numerous books published along with many great celebrations in photography.

Could you tell us a bit about your background at American Crew, but especially as a photographer? David: I was inspired by the lack of grooming options for men on the market, and I knew there had to be a better offering than the limited selection of drugstore products and run-of-the-mill wax pomades. So with the knowledge gathered from my styling experience as a barber along with my passion for filling that gap in the market I launched American Crew in 1994 with just six products. The photography came later as I actually didn’t start being a photographer until the late 90’s. I’ve always loved photography, I had a dark room when I was young and I was obsessed with polaroids for a long time. Ultimately, in the late 90s after the brand launched I would take a shot at being

What inspires you for your photographic work? David: Because of the digital era and smartphones have given us such easy access to great quality photos, I now love classic, old-school photography even more. I tend to gravitate towards images that have a real authenticity to them and it’s that type of moving photography that truly inspires me. I regularly look back at the 50s photojournalists at LIFE and TIME Magazine for inspiration because those raw and emotional photos are what I strive for.

What is the goal of the American Crew All-Star Challenge? Phoenix: Year after year, I am so proud of the All-Star Challenge and what it brings to not only American Crew, but Pros all over the world. It’s a competition that really encourages barbers and hair-stylists globally to put their technique and talent to the test to create their contemporary 81

The talent that we have seen is out of this world, and it keeps getting better every year!

Why should any barber or men’s hairdresser join the American Crew All-Star Challenge? Phoenix Thomson

interpretation of the American Crew look. From what initially started as a one country competition—which was actually called Face Off in Australia— it has transformed to a huge global event providing countless opportunities to over 10,000 barbers and stylists worldwide since its inception. I am amazed at the level of artistry that was displayed in this year’s Challenge because of how well it showcases the way that the industry is evolving and diversifying.

David: It’s an amazing opportunity to challenge yourself, your talent and your creativity on a global platform! The competition really pushes you to take your skills to the next level. Along with being a part of the prestige of being named an American Crew All-Star Challenge Winner, each of the five winners received $5,000 cash, and will be going on an all-expense paid trip to Barcelona, Spain. During this trip, they will have the opportunity to style a top model with their winning look, which I’ll have the pleasure of personally capturing during a private photo session. Unfortunately, due to the current climate surrounding COVID

we are having to postpone the trip until it is safe for everyone to travel. We are so excited to host everyone in Barcelona but their health and safety remains our top priority.

What is important when shooting a hair collection? David: Hair is about texture and shape, you either have to light it to celebrate the texture or light it to celebrate the shape. If you want to focus on the shape, you can shoot from extreme angles and there’s a lot you can do to capture the shape at its best. If texture is the focal point, then it’s all about the light and how the light represents the separation in the hair. There’s a lot of luck in photography but hair photography is a skill in understanding light. Personally, I need to get into the details of each hair in order to light it so that it’s at its best—hair photography is quite complicated if you can look at it that way, it helps you get a brilliant hair photo.

What makes hair collection photographs award-winning? David: You have to remember that the hair is going to be most important part of a hair photograph. However, the execution of a hair collection has to have a lot more to it than good photography. It needs to have relevance to trend and wardrobe will help you with the authenticity of the fashion element that you’re trying to achieve. Trying to create the ‘perfect’ hair collection is a moving target because there are no rules. It’s all about bringing to life that new unique perspective of the hair you’re capturing. 82

What was your most favourite shoot or collection?

to get the final result of larger than life shapes.

David: I have so many, I don’t think I could choose but right now, my favorite collection is the one we most recently shot— ARC. It’s very technical and not technical at the same time. It’s such a cool artistic representation of height and silhouette and what I love most is the culturally-relevant texture and curls that we feature. ARC represents more than the everyday texture you work on. High textured hair takes an entirely different skillset and is a very important part of barbering today. I really love the natural qualities and how it’s about shape and technique more than anything. Ultimately, it’s about adapting a little product

What made it your favorite shoot ever and what inspired it? Phoenix: ARC for me is a celebration of natural hair color and texture. This collection really evolved over the pre- production stages. We started the process imagining we were creating a fundamental curriculum, but our plans changed so quickly as we got so inspired and excited in a really organic way. When working with David and William (wardrobe stylist) with an evolving mood board, that references the fashion of urban LA in the late 60’s. This was really the creative catalyst for our model choices. It’s really ALL about the models.

They are truly incredible people which made shooting this collection one of my favourites so far!

Do you have any tips for barbers in creating a ‘winning hair collection’? David: Absolutely! A winning hair collection should focus on whatever you feel the collection’s assets are—whether it’s aggresively short or volume or texture—whatever those assets may be, you need to exploit to the maximum. It’s about getting right in there to show what makes this collection unique. Whether it’s texture, height or shape, the best parts of it MUST be lit. A photo can tell a thousand words but it

Collection: ARC Creative Director: Phoenix Thomson Hair: Curtis Cross, Crystal Heric Photography: David Raccuglia Wardrobe: William Graper Models: Sheldon Barrow, Lew Caine and Keenan Javon

It’s about getting right in there to show what makes the collection unique

can also set you back a thousand words if it’s not clearly showing the point of difference of your collection. Ask yourself, what makes it interesting? It’s not always about being super trendy or unique. Classic collections, when shot properly, can also turn out beautiful and iconic.

Do you have any pointers for barbers who want to increase their odds of winning an award? David: Practice, a lot! If you want to win an award and you want to be celebrated for your craft by your peers, you should practice. You need to study the history and understand every aspect of the craft.

What are your plans for the future? Where do you see yourself five years from now? David: It’s crazy to think about the growth of the men’s grooming industry since we started over 25 years ago, but even more intriguing to think about how much it will grow in the next 25 years. What I know for sure is that we intend to keep American Crew at the forefront, by always focusing on the needs of men and the Professionals who have been at the heart of our success.

Collection: ARC Creative Director: Phoenix Thomson Hair: Curtis Cross, Crystal Heric Photography: David Raccuglia Wardrobe: William Graper Models: Sheldon Barrow, Lew Caine and Keenan Javon

THE

T H E M E : P H OTO G R A P H Y A N D AWA R D -W I N N I N G C O L L ECT IO N S

LAWS OF A HAIR CHAMPION

C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R

Trends, timelessness and the total look

Entering a hair competition is one of the best ways to really get your career to the top fast. Many people do not spend the time it takes to really master the whole process of competition winning. Imagine telling a production company that you’re an award-winning hairstylist, or your clients that you have won many awards. It’s a great marketing tool to drive traffic to your business and separate you from the rest of the competition. I would always recommend taking the process of entering competitions seriously. It is a great method of growing your business and exponentially growing your profile. In this article, I would like to give you my top tips and as a profile building expert for helping you build a winning competition strategy.

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Growth Mindset The process of entering a competition should be seen as professional development. When you prepare an entry for a competition, you are actually putting your best work forward. It’s really not about if you’re going to win or not. It’s about how well you can show the world how magnificent you are. Now, there will always be setbacks, but the people who really win are those who constantly enter competitions because they are constantly going through the refinement process.

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The Image is Everything Creating an image is fundamental to your success in your win. The image, the shape, the model are all so important. Let me give you a strategy to help. The three T’s, trends, timelessness and the total look. Trend: Think about the trend. Is it current right now? Is it something that is really exciting for the hairdressing community? Timelessness: Think about the shape of the style. Is it timeless? When you think about creating great imagery for competitions, think about how it could be seen 10, 20, 30 years from now. Total Look: Remember to create a collection of work that is fundamentally going to inspire somebody else. When you have a body of work like this, it definitely gives you a much greater chance of winning your competition. Whether it’s photographic, or live, make sure your model reflects the work that you are going to put out there. Your model is everything. But remember, the hair is the focus. So just like when the fashion industry chooses models as an essential part of the designer look and models are flown around the world just to show off a collection, remember to use your models the exact same way to show off your work. So choose your model wisely, never shortchange yourself in the way you want to show up because you have chosen the wrong model.

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Play to your strengths Choose a competition that plays to your strengths; there are many different types out there. Some are judged on a live presentation, others on photographic some that have both live and photographic elements. You also have a few competitions which require you to submit a full collection of work or your best body of work. Don’t forget the competitions which are designed for business. So choose the competition that best serves you and your strengths, because this will give you the best opportunity to show your magnificence. L AW 4

Think like a Judge Before you enter your competition, think about how the judge is going to go through the process of whittling down a winner. Remember, he or she may see hundreds of people’s work. You want to be able to stand out from the crowd. You want the judge to really take notice of you and your work. So make sure that your styling, your model, and your hair has clarity. Create imagery that has a story; a cohesive message. It will make it easier for the judges to understand what you are trying to communicate. For example, if you are trying to create an image from a particular time or decade then communicate that decade in the styling in the way the hair is combed or cut to reflect the story of that decade.

Remember, think like a judge they will have of these things going through their mind. They will be asking themselves: Does this image stand out? Does this collection tell a story? How many techniques have been employed? Are there different ways that they can execute the look? Are the techniques shown completed with precision and excellence? L AW 5

Maximise the Win Now, after you have won your competition you will need to PR your win. After all, you need to make sure the world knows how magnificent you are. I would recommend getting a PR agent that really reflects your work and will show your work to the right people. Working with a PR agent for three months after you’ve won your competition will give you the best chance to really promote what you have done. Without a doubt, entering and winning competitions will help to grow your network and attract the best staff. It will also help to build trust and credibility whilst attracting the best opportunities to you and your business. So make sure you use the strategies which I’ve shared in this article to help you build that amazing profile. And if you need any help building your profile with competitions, please feel free to join my Xposure programme. On Xposure, we break down the process of building awardwinning collections. For more information visit www.theprofileguy.com. Chris Foster – ‘the profile guy’!

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

KINGS THAT SING 89

INTERVIEW WITH PASCAL VAN LITH Kings Barbers is a thriving barbershop located in the heart of Den Bosch, a beautiful and historic city in the Southern part of the Netherlands. Pascal van Lith, who won the Dutch Men’s Hairdressing Champion title in 1994, opened Kings Barbers about six years ago. He also owns and operates Hoepelman Kappers Maaspoort and his wife runs Palazzo hair-design. He has been in the business for 35 years. Pascal’s passion for barbering was passed on to him by his father Geert van Lith, who in turn had learned the craft from his uncle. The barbershop his father founded can still be found in the family home where he grew up in Berlicum, a village just outside of Den Bosch. His sister Jessica took over the shop from her father some years ago. They are now preparing her eldest son and Pascal’s godchild, Loran, to go into the business. So the next generation is stepping up to the plate. Back in the day Pascal (age 50) tells us the story: “My uncle had a barbershop in Berlicum. After the Second World War, my father, Geert van Lith, took up an apprenticeship with him as an assistant. He learned all the ins and outs of trade at my uncle’s salon, including how to prepare shaving cream. A few years later my uncle and my father had hair salons next door

to each other. My uncle had a women’s hairdressing salon, and my father had a friendly, old-fashioned barbershop that fulfilled a social role in the community. The local men would gather in my father’s shop to get the low-down on the latest rumours and to talk at length about people in the village who had taken ill or passed away. An incredible story from back

OWNER OF KINGS BARBERS IN DEN BOSCH, THE NETHERLANDS

Nico Hoepelman teaches Pascal to cut a blockhead using scissors and a comb

in the day is about a German during the war. He wasn’t wearing a uniform, came in and sat down in a chair and nonchalantly began polishing his pistol! He took the pistol apart and then put it back together again after he’d fully cleaned all the parts. You can imagine that you could have heard a pin drop in the barbershop and that everyone breathed a sigh of relief when he left!” Wild and carefree When he was 15, Pascal had no idea what he wanted to become. His father’s barbershop was small and at the time the barbering trade had a bad image. “Back then I wasn’t the type to become a barber – I was too wild, too carefree and too rock and roll.” His older brother did go to hairdressing school, but he sadly passed away when he was just eighteen. Pascal’s father urged him to give barbering a try. He said he’d give him a chance to work independently as barber

at a later stage and that he could one day take over the business. Once Pascal went to hairdressing school and got an apprenticeship in the city, he was sold. Working at a big salon with a large team gave him a different view of the hairdressing world than he had grown up with. With Nico Hoepelman as his teacher and mentor, Pascal learned all the finer points of the craft and he became an impassioned barber. Nothing on a silver platter He got the chance to take part in a national hairdressing school competition through his hairdressing college. And something unbelievable happened: he became the champion of all the hairdressing schools in the Netherlands in his very first competition! This victory did not go unnoticed. He was invited to join the national team and took his first steps into the world of competitions. He was first part of the youth team and then quickly moved up the ladder. He won the title of Dutch Men’s Hairdressing Champion in 1994. Other titles followed in quick succession, including The Golden Tulip, EEG championship, the German Cup and the Oscar

I always trained with an alarm clock next to me because every minute counts with competition work

of the Grand Prix Paris de la Mode. Pascal: “The awards led to recognition of my hairdressing skills, which in turn motivated me to achieve more in my day-to-day work at Nico’s salon. But nothing was served on a silver platter, you have to work hard to get ahead in life. I put in loads of training before the contests. I trained after work to get ready for the competitions. At a certain point I even had a model in Groningen in the northernmost part of the Netherlands. I would drive back and forth twice a week. During that period I focused 100% on my craft: training, training and more training and being on the road with the national team. And I always trained with an alarm clock next to me because every minute counts with competition work. That was a great period of my life. All the work and discipline I put into training has made me who I am today as a barber.” Success Pascal’s sister ended up acquiring his father’s barbershop rather than him. Pascal: “I wanted to focus more on the city. I envisioned greater potential for my barbering career in Den Bosch than in Berlicum. I could achieve more there, also because I’d made a name for myself and successfully picked up a number of awards.” Pascal was able to acquire ‘Nico Hoepelman Maaspoort’, the salon where he was the manager when he was 27. Together with three other guys who Nico had also done apprenticeships with Nico, he went on to acquire the entire chain in 2005, a total of 13 salons. Six years ago they each decided to each go their own way. So they sold everything apart from some real estate. Kings Barbers takes Den Bosch by storm Barbering was taking off and becoming very popular. Pascal: “The barbering business made a comeback about six years ago. 93

I’d been thinking about opening a barbershop in the Den Bosch city centre for a while. I thought: If anyone is going to do it, it’s got to be me. I had a pretty clear picture in my mind of what I wanted the shop to look like. With the help of friends, I renovated and furnished the shop myself. It’s an old-fashioned jumble of bric-a brac that is precisely what I wanted. Everything is spot-on down to the last detail. The prominent location, the building, the atmosphere we exude, how we look, the humour and, above all, the high level of our work.” Comb and scissors “We’re located around the corner from Den Bosch’s main entertainment district. Clients meet up here on Saturday afternoon and then head to the bars and restaurants. It’s one big party here. I’ve had a first-rate sound system installed and local singers will sometimes spontaneously grab the microphone. From time to time we also have bands perform at the barbershop. That creates a buzz around the place. We place a lot of importance at Kings Barbers on cutting hair with a comb and scissors, which is also a passion of mine. I’ve trained most of my employees myself and they aren’t allowed to touch the clippers for the first six months. In terms of barbering skills, this teaches them to introduce more shape and lines in haircuts. Personally, I like the full treatments the best, so cut and shave and cut and beard, because I then get to work on both their hair and face for a full hour.” What has been his biggest blunder in his barbering career? “Back when I was working at Nico’s, I put a toupee on the wrong way around. So the back at the front and the front at the back. That meant I also I cut it in the wrong model. Yeah, that ended up costing Nico a pretty penny.”

They’re not allowed to touch the clippers for the first six months Tips? Pascal has got through the pandemic relatively well. He says it is important as a business owner to ensure you have sound financial buffers. “Don’t do anything foolish, stay in contact with your colleagues and do your best to keep seeing each other.” At the beginning of the lockdown in April 2020, he even got his colleagues together in a recording studio. They recorded the song ‘We are the Kings’ as a boost for their clients. It generated a lot of goodwill and positive reactions. What are his tips for barbers? Listen closely to what someone wants, practice your profession with passion, keep track of what’s going on in our sector and on social media and take training courses. Changes in the sector Pascal: “The barbering trade had a negative image 35 years ago. It was poorly paid, you had to work hard, and barbers were looked down upon. People used to say, ‘You can always become a barber’. But that has fortunately changed over the years. Today men are willing to pay for quality. The barbering trade has been given an upgrade with the arrival of barbershops where men can once again be men. You can tell that the

barbering trade is held in high esteem; the pandemic has shown that having a good haircut is important to a person’s well-being. We still place a great deal of importance on listening closely to our clients. Because the better you listen, the better you can respond to his needs. We’ve been going the extra mile to do what the client wants for six years. Whether they’re looking for a hip and trendy style or a more standard haircut. And that too still gives me a great deal of satisfaction. Quality always rises to the top. As long as we as barbers keep delivering quality, I don’t see any dangers for our great profession and envision a bright future ahead.” Completely in my element When asked about his ambitions for the future, he muses about a second branch of Kings Barbers in another city. But he says he will have to train more people first because there is a shortage of good barbers. “It isn’t a must anyway. I feel completely in my element with my current businesses. As long as I can continue to practice my profession in good health and train people so that they become better than I am, I’ll be a happy man. After all, at the end of the day it is one of the best professions in the world.”

@kingsbarbersdb