BarberSociety Magazine international Winter 2020 issue (in English) by BarberSociety magazine

BARBARELLA WHO THINKS ‘OUT OF THE BOX’ INTERVIEW WITH JESSY HARTSOE INNOVATE TO MAKE MONEY IN A PANDEMIC CHRIS FOSTER COLUMN

WINTER 2020 | #6 | € 12.50

TEMPT THE CLIENT… TO BUY MORE CROSS-SELLING & PRODUCT SALES TIPS

BARBERSOCIETY MAGAZINE

REBEL WITH A CAUSE INTERVIEW WITH ALAN FINDLAY

www.pinin.com www.sentakuscissors.com info@pinin.com #pininworld

Pinin Scissors, artisans since 1942 Specialized in the production of high quality Scissors for Hairdressers and Barbers Technical and artistic customizations, design and prototyping Professional sharpening service Made in Italy

Collection: INOX, created for ‘Advanced Barber’ by Tahe Hair: Paco López (ES) Photography: Estevan Roca Styling: Visory @thebarbershopbypacolopez

EDITORIAL

REBEL WITH A CAUSE Interview with Alan Findlay

TEMPT THE CLIENT … TO BUY MORE Cross-selling & product sales tips

TRENDS Barber Birdman, Pilar Zaragozá & Leticia Martinez, Christian Ríos, Gema Moreno, Salvador Oliver, David Pérez, Paco López

RETAIL IN THE BARBERSHOP DURING THE CORONAVIRUS CRISIS Q&A with Joost Mulleman

BARBERS & THE CIT Y Seville

BARBERS & BAGS The leather artistry of José Mollura

PRODUCT NEWS Lifestyle, Grooming, In Shop

BARBER BABE Interview with Jessy Hartsoe

A TRIBUTE TO MR SAM WALL “Ello mate”

ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Wim Broekhuis & Martin Leusink

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER Innovate to make money in a pandemic

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Marit Heemskerk Contributor Chris Foster Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam; Jarno Aafjes, Dagmar van den Brink Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety.com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

This became particularly clear when I recently sent an emailing to clients about the installation of a revolutionary air purification system in our barbershop. It uses ionisation, which enables us to provide both our clients and staff with a healthy and virusfree environment. I received numerous positive reactions and was even able to welcome back some clients. This emailing made me realise how important it is during these tough times to reassure our clients by introducing innovations and staying in contact with them via online channels. This also happens to be the focus of Chris Foster’s new column in which he looks at the different ways you can leverage innovation to get through the coronavirus pandemic. It won’t come as a surprise that having an effective online strategy is vitally important in this context! Boosting revenue In this edition of BarberSociety Magazine, we’re sharing tips and advice for effectively boosting product sales in your barbershop. While product sales take a back 4

EDITORIAL

At the time of writing this column, we are once again seeing lockdowns around the world, with barbershops closed in many countries. I’m relieved that barbershops have been allowed to remain open in the Netherlands during our current partial lockdown. But that doesn’t mean it is business as usual. Our barbershop is in the heart of Amsterdam and the absence of tourists and office workers has caused our revenue to fall. While I’m grateful that I can serve a group of loyal regular clients, I’ve also noticed that some of our regulars are reluctant to visit the barbershop due to the high numbers of coronavirus infections in Amsterdam.

seat at many barbershops, selling and recommending products can give you the needed extra boost in revenue. It’s a particularly relevant theme in the run-up to the Christmas and New Year holidays. We’re delighted that Sales Inspirer Rob Snoeijen has written an article for this edition. In the article he explains how crossselling serves as an exceptionally effective sales technique for achieving better sales results in no time. This article motivated me to also start applying crossselling. Check it out on page 11. This edition features several interviews with barbers in which they share how they approach product sales. UK top barber and BarberSociety Live icon Alan Findlay is convinced you should never sell a product you don’t believe in 100%. They must be relevant products that his clients can use at home to create the same look as in the barbershop. Dutch barber Joost Mulleman and German Barber Babe Jessy Hartsoe agree with him and see product sales as an extension of their service. They also

The huge pent-up creative energy has to get out and create cool stuff emphasise how important it is to build lasting relationships with clients, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Milestone We interviewed Dutch barbers Martin Leusink and Wim Broekhuis for our ‘all in the family’ column. They know from many years of experience how crucially important it is as a barber to give clients the attention they deserve and to be a genuinely good listener. Their barbershop - Kapper Martin Herenkappers – is celebrating its 50th anniversary and Wim’s nephew Martin asked us if we could set up an interview as a surprise for his uncle. This resulted in an excellent article that tells the moving story of this barbering family! Mr. Sam Wall We are presenting a special tribute to Sam Wall in this edition. It was with great sadness that we learned that this extraordinarily talented barber and our dear friend passed away in November. We are honouring his memory with a piece that has been

beautifully written by his friend and mentor Chris Foster. During this difficult period, I’d like to appeal to everyone to look after each other. If you would like to actively raise awareness of mental health and help prevent suicide, I invite you to take the free ‘BarberTalk Lite’ training provided by ‘The Lions Barber Collective’: www. lionsbarbercollective.com/ barbertalk-lite Creativity With a view to the December gift-giving month and barbers’ love of beautiful, handcrafted products, this edition shares the story of leathersmith José Mollura who creates fantastic high-quality leather bags at his studio and boutique in the Amsterdam city centre. The crisis has stimulated his creativity, which has resulted in the development of a new waterproof line. So something positive can come out of this crisis. Alan Findlay is likewise convinced that a massive wave of creativity will be unleashed in the barbering industry once the pandemic is over.

Let’s hold onto that positive thought and ring in 2021 with confidence and courage. I wish you all a creative, inspiring and successful New Year buzzing with new challenges and opportunities! I’m naturally looking forward to hopefully getting to see each other again ‘live’ next year at BarberSociety Live 2021. Because even though we’ve got a world of online possibilities, nothing beats meeting each other for real and face to face to share our stories and experiences!

Marc van de Hare BarberSociety Founder owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam Barbers

P.S. I had the privilege of meeting top Spanish barber Paco López last August. A photo of his amazing new INOX collection is showcased on the cover of this edition. Also be sure to check out the trend pages and the ‘Barbers & the City Sevilla’ section!

INTERV IEW

INTERVIEW ALAN FINDLAY 6

REBEL WITH A CAUSE Alan Findlay puts people – staff and clients – at the heart of everything he does. He has a clear vision on the keys to a successful barbershop and a happy working life. With three decades of experience under his belt, he’s as passionate as ever about developing professional skills, promoting the barbering community and training young barbers to build careers in the industry. He says it all comes down to experience, top-quality haircuts and the barber’s skill set. BarberSociety met up with Alan virtually to talk about his career, fostering client relationships and staying in step with the times. A lively conversation with this Glaswegian who has a gift for the gab and an engaging turn of phrase. Gaun Yersel!

Didn’t want to kill people Alan Findlay, who stands at the helm of two Rebel Rebel shops in Glasgow, got into the barbering industry by chance after deciding the army wasn’t for him. Over the past thirty years, he has carved out an impressive career and is today one of the UK’s top barbers. Alan recaps his career: “I was in the army when I was 16 and decided after about six months that I didn’t want to kill people and left. I went to a job centre and there was an opening for an apprentice hairdresser, so I started out in hairdressing and was a hairdresser for a couple of years.”

You’ve got to remember that each new client you get who has a good experience will come back

On-the-job learning With his level 2 hairdressing certificate in the pocket, he moved to Glasgow in 1989 and got a job at a local barbershop. “Back then the barbering industry didn’t have any education whatsoever. Long hair was popular in the sixties and seventies, which meant many local barbershops that only cut short died off. Hairdressing got a massive boost in the 1960s and 1970s with big chains, product brands, and celebrity. Barbering just went into the doldrums and stayed there until last decade. So when I started out almost 30 years ago, I’d only been 7

I want to create a company that’s owned by the workforce trained at college to do basic haircutting and hadn’t even learned to use clippers. So I had to learn everything on the job and basically copied the guy working next to me. I worked at conveyor belt barbershops for fourteen years and then I got the opportunity to get my own place in Glasgow in 2003. I worked there for about three of four years and then teamed up with a friend of mine who worked in finance and we joined forces and set up Rebel Rebel in 2007.” Opening Rebel Rebel was a turning point in Alan’s career and gave him a vehicle for putting his vision for barbering into action. “That’s when I really zeroed in on my ideas and what I believe in. It was a unique time to open a barbershop because short hair was becoming fashionable again and men were paying more attention to their appearance. I was ready for this step with a hairdressing background, extensive knowledge of the hairdressing world and sound barbering skills I’d developed during my 14 years working at barbershops in Glasgow. So when I opened Rebel Rebel, I had a creative vision for the company. 8

That’s the short version of how I got to where I am today.” Giving the vision wings Alan set about putting his vision into practice by focusing on the client experience, creating a supportive company culture and building lasting client relationships. “My vision was to create a company that was fun for people. I’m a big believer that if you’ve got happy staff you’ve got productive staff and satisfied customers. There’s a triangle between the business, the staff and the customers. It’s all about keeping all three happy. That’s why I wanted to be a good boss and ensure my staff received the best training possible. So I developed training strategies and have always trained my own staff. I’ve trained around a hundred people over the past thirteen years. I’ve since launched my own barber academy as well, so that laid the groundwork for my approach to training. I started out working at a conveyor belt barbershop where you couldn’t take any appointments and barbers were two a penny. It was all about doing the haircut as quickly as you could – get em in,

get em out, bums in seats. My attitude was totally different I wanted to take my time, have better trained barbers and better customer service. I wanted it to be a positive experience. It worked really well and took off very quickly.” Building lasting client relationships Developing lasting relationships with clients and taking a longterm view are key to building a business that will stand the test of time, Alan explains: “You’ve got to remember that each new client you get who has a good experience will come back maybe twelve times a year. So it’s not just a 35-pound haircut, it’s twelve times that. It’s all about ensuring they come back month after month, year after year.” Alan is convinced that word-ofmouth is by far the best way to expand the clientele. “For every one person you see, you want them to pass on the word to four or five people that you’re a really good barber and that they had a great experience. If you can have that effect on your clients, it will be super easy to build your business.” Gaining a rapport with clients is more important than ever during the coronavirus pandemic. “The relationships with your clients are even more vitally important during this crisis, because they’re more likely to come into the city centre just to see you even if they aren’t working in the centre at the moment. So all that groundwork you laid down in building rapport with your clients should be yielding dividends now if you’ve done your job properly. If you didn’t care about your clients and just did it for the money, you’re probably struggling right now.”

Never sell a product you don’t believe in Alan carries two lines of products in his shops and sees helping clients learn how to use products properly as an integral part of the service. “First and foremost, I don’t like to use anything I don’t believe in. If I don’t believe in it, I’m not going to sell it to anyone. I only sell products that I think are relevant and that clients can use at home to create the same look as in the shop.” The focus is on understanding the client’s needs and selecting the product that works for them. “You’ve got to understand what the client’s needs are and then show them while you’re styling their hair how to use the styling product. If you want height

or curl in your hair, you need a product that will enhance that. I tell my clients that you really only need two products for your hair – one to prep it and one to style it. These two products should be the focal point during the consultation. It’s my responsibility for my clients to know how to use the products. When you have these kinds of conversations with clients, they usually don’t see it as hard sell. It comes down to information – if you take your time to explain the product in detail and which product you should be using.” It’s all about trust As with every aspect of the client relationship, it is a matter of trust. Alan explains: “If you’ve already gained their trust through their

hair, you can also gain their trust with the product. I’m trying to help you, here’s what you need, if you buy this it will last you this amount of time and your total spend per year will be X amount per year.” Experience sets Rebel Rebel apart What makes Rebel Rebel distinctive? “The first and most important thing is experience. If I take on a young person, I want them to feel that they can work with me long term and that I can help them build a career. They can then in turn help me build my business so we can expand this as a collective. I want to share my company with my staff so that they become part of the company.”

Alan says everything revolves around three aspects: “Experience, the quality of the haircut itself and the skill set of the barber. I want my customers to feel that these guys know what they are talking about – they know the products, styles and techniques inside out.” Staying in step with the times What does Alan see as the major trends in barbering? “Trends can be very localised and very globalised now because of the internet. The localised trend in Glasgow is the French crop with high fades and low fades, that’s been the main haircut over the last nine or ten years. The trends 10

tend to change every decade and I am starting to see some signs of change – mullets are making a comeback, flattened tops and jaggy at the back. The trends right now can go from being very classic and polished to rough and messy.” Promoting the international barber community Alan is an active part of the international barber community and believes in supporting the profession through taking part in events. He is a member of the B.O.M.B. Squad (Barbers of Modern Britain), which is the UK’s first creative barber team. They give shows and demonstrations

at a number of international barber events. He has very fond memories of BarberSociety Live. “I met Marc van de Hare at an event in Cardiff. I was on stage and there was this big tall guy staring at me at the front of the crowd holding up a BarberSociety banner. So I chatted with him afterwards and we got on really well. He asked if I’d like to come to BarberSociety Live, but I didn’t realise how big a thing it was going to be. Of all the events we’ve done, the one I always look forward to is BarberSociety Live. The reason is: it’s a great show, a big family-run event. It’s really about the experience, not about product companies, how much stuff I can sell – the focus is on an experience, meeting interesting people and having a great time.” Looking to the future Alan looks to the future with confidence. “I foresee a huge wave of creativity after Covid-19 passes, because people have all this pent-up creative energy and will really want to get out and do some cool stuff. And looking further into the future, I want to create a company that’s owned by the workforce. When I retire, I would like to be able to sell my shares in the company and pass it on to the employees who are running this company.”

BR AND BITE

TEMPT YOUR CLIENT… TO BUY MORE Rob Snoeijen is a Dutch sales inspirer and is the director of the SalesTopics institute that helps businesses accelerate their sales by providing sales training, coaching and consultancy. Rob is committed to helping organisations and sales professionals improve their commercial returns. With more than 25 years of sales experience under his belt, Rob is a leading professional in his field. Driven by his passion for sales, he is the author of three bestsellers. With boundless enthusiasm, he successfully inspires and motivates his training programme participants to ‘do things differently’.

Rob Snoeijen

Think of the last time you went to the butcher’s shop. What did the butcher ask you? Would you like a piece of sausage? No, that’s not the question I’m looking for. How about: ‘Is it okay if it’s a little bit more?’ and ‘Can I get you anything else?’ Asking these questions is as natural as breathing for him. But you’d be surprised how many businesses forget to realise cross-selling or haven’t made increasing sales part of their sales approach. They haven’t given it proper consideration and don’t have a plan. A missed opportunity! Another example. I bought a new pair of shoes the other day. And what did I buy to go with them? You guessed it – waterproof spray, matching shoe polish (even though I’ve already got a shoeshine box full of sundry shoe polishes) and shoe stretchers to keep my shoes in shape. I spent more than 30 euros on these extras. I was struck by the fact that the shoe salesperson was very young, but she still asked me a couple of cross-selling questions. Questions you’re

almost never asked at a barbershop. So cross-selling is an exceptionally effective sales technique enabling you to achieve greater results – fast and easy. What are the key elements of this sales technique and how can you apply it effectively in your barbershop? Cross-selling Cross-selling means trying to sell different relevant products or services to a client. A few examples: Service station: You go to fill up the car, but the cashier at the register asks if you’d also like the daily special; two packs of gum for a euro or 25% off a croissant and coffee. Bank: You open a saving account when you’re a kid and go on to take out a mortgage and an insurance mortgage with the same bank when you get older. Computer store: You purchase a laptop and buy a bag, a wireless mouse and an extra memory card to go with it. 11

5 PRACTICAL SALES TIPS To achieve successful crossselling, you must decide in advance which products or services are complementary. Which supplementary products or services do clients usually buy? Which products do clients usually purchase at the same time? It’s important that the products dovetail or are closely related to each other. Otherwise the client will get the feeling that you’re trying to ‘fob something off’ on them. Look at the situation from the client’s point of view, rather than focussing only on increasing your revenue. The following steps will help you successfully implement a cross-selling strategy within your business: STEP 1 Which supplementary products or services can be considered for cross-selling? STEP 2 Which target group is most suited to cross-selling? STEP 3 What cross-selling campaign lends itself best to cross-selling?

Choose your target group carefully. Focus your campaign on clients who demonstrate approximately the same behaviours or that possess the same characteristics.

The key benefits Successfully selling more products yields a range of benefits for both the client and the barber. The top-8 benefits at a glance: 1 Your clients get full information about the products or services that they can actually use at that moment. 2 Client satisfaction rises because the client can make an optimum selection from the wide range on offer. 3 Client loyalty increases because the client is genuinely satisfied and will return. 4 The misconception that ‘I didn’t know you guys also offer this service’ is eliminated. 5 The barber also gains a better understanding of the products and related supplements, which means he or she will make connections more quickly and achieve increased sales. 6 Higher conversion will mean you incur lower sales expenses and purchase your inventory more economically so you can offer the products at a lower price. 7 You strengthen your competitive position compared to your competitors. 8 Your profitability per client ultimately goes up.

Guidelines for cross-selling Are you starting to get excited about successfully applying cross-selling in your barbershop? Then it’s time to get started! Remember that there isn’t a golden rule. What works for one business, doesn’t work for another. To minimise the pitfalls and risk factors for you as much as possible, I want to share a few tips and guidelines that you can use to set up your cross-selling campaigns. Display your range, but don’t overdo it If you show your client too many choices, you run the risk of making this choice stressful for him and as a result he’ll find it hard to decide. It is more effective to display a smaller selection of supplementary products or services. So two cans of hairspray rather than ten. Keep it relevant Give a lot of thought to which products go together. If you know what your client is looking for, you can align your cross-selling offering to their specific needs. If you look for a book on Amazon, you’ll automatically get suggestions for other books you might like.

1. Always make the next appointment right away 2. Sell the result instead of a haircut 3. Don’t make any assumptions and ask lots of questions 4. Make sure you have a clear goal 5. Help clients make a decision

Make combinations You can offer combination specials in different ways. You could, for example, present a special offer on a combination of similar products or equally a combination with related products. You can give a discount on the total price. An example: the bundle rates for taking out a mobile phone subscription in combination with a new smartphone. A hair colouring treatment in combination with a facial massage. A haircut and shave duo deal. Social provability Presenting client ratings or specialist opinions will make clients more apt to purchase additional products. Show the number of products sold or share product reviews. Using terms such as highest rating and stating the number of likes will be helpful. Use existing clients as proof. Existing clients first With a cross-selling campaign, it’s always a good idea to start with bringing it to the attention of existing clients. Give your existing clients the feeling that you’re treating them as your most recent new client. Make them feel special and they will remain a loyal returning client for years.

Use example texts The following example texts are often used to create a ‘bridge’ to a cross-selling conversation: This product is often combined with … Have you ever thought of...? This is now also available … This goes well with … Recommended products … Other products in this collection … Make the most of … Other clients also bought … This combination has been made especially for you … Our specialist’s choice is … Accessories with this product … Choose the right timing It’s important to give plenty of thought to determining the best times for showing clients your products. Which phases in the purchase decision process are the best? When the client is still browsing or at the time of their first purchase? Or perhaps both? Also consider different times of the year, such as holidays, events or a certain season during which products sell better.

Ask more questions … Cross-selling is extraordinarily effective. It gives a strong boost to revenue growth and sharply increases the average order value. Successfully applying cross-selling isn’t very difficult. Seriously thinking in a structured manner about what could be useful and valuable for clients and the ways in which your business can meet these needs will enable you to substantially increase sales. So make a crossselling plan for your business. I see it above all as a mindset. Don’t approach cross-selling like the usually uninterested cashier at a service station, but rather with the passion of the butcher. Get started and try asking more ‘butcher’s’ questions.

BARBER BIRDMAN

Hair: Barber Birdman (NL) Photography: Nicole van der Linden Makeup: Lianne Baltes Styling: Anouck van der Heijden @barberbirdman

THE NETHERLANDS

Hair: Barber Birdman (NL) Photography: Nicole van der Linden Makeup: Lianne Baltes Styling: Anouck van der Heijden @barberbirdman

PILAR ZARAGOZÁ &

Collection: ALÚMINA Hair: Pilar Zaragozá & Leticia Martínez (ES) - EOS | MEN Photography: David Arnal Makeup & styling: EOS MEN Models: Alfredo, Alberto, Jorge, Oscar Products: American Crew @srta.pili_eos, @srta_letii, @eos__men

SPAIN

LETICIA MARTÍNEZ

PILAR ZARAGOZÁ &

SPAIN

LETICIA MARTÍNEZ

CHRISTIAN RÍOS

FÍGARO AWARDS 2020 COMMERCIAL MEN’S FINALIST

Collection: LEBEN Hair & styling: Christian Ríos (ES) Photography & retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Nacho Sanz Products: Revlon Professional, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

SPAIN

Collection: LEBEN Hair & styling: Christian RÃos (ES) Photography & retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Nacho Sanz Products: Revlon Professional, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

CHRISTIAN RÍOS

FÍGARO AWARDS 2020 COMMERCIAL MEN’S FINALIST

Collection: LEBEN Hair & styling: Christian Ríos (ES) Photography & retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Nacho Sanz Products: Revlon Professional, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

SPAIN

Collection: LEBEN Hair & styling: Christian RÃos (ES) Photography & retouche: Esteban Roca Makeup: Nacho Sanz Products: Revlon Professional, Kevin Murphy @khrystyan28, @christianriossalon

GEMA MORENO

Collection: MALAK Hair: Gema Moreno (Antonio – Eloy Escuela Profesional) (ES) Hair assistant: Fran Sobrino Photography: Edu Gómez Makeup: Lulú Pérez Makeup assistant: Ariadna Caparrós Styling: Álvaro De Olmedo Models: Alejandro Ibe Ramos, Jorge Celedonio, Slavik Spivak Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia Products: American Crew @gema_moren

SPAIN

GEMA MORENO

SPAIN

Collection: AQUA Hair: Salvador Oliver (ES) Hair assistant: Omar Navarro Photography: Juan Francisco Pagán Makeup & styling: Mónica Moreno C. Models: Felipe Rojo, Fernando G. Ros, Pablo José Román, Manuel Muñoz Retouche: Javier Villalabeitia @labarberiadeoliver, @salvador_oliver__

SALVADOR OLIVER

SPAIN

SALVADOR OLIVER

SPAIN

DAVID PÃ&#x2030;REZ

Collection: NORMALITY? Hair: David PÃ©rez (ES) Photography: Juan C. Trujillo Styling: Antonio G. Sotelo @rockandbarber

PACO LÓPEZ

Collection: INOX, created for ‘Advanced Barber’ by Tahe Hair: Paco López (ES) Photography: Estevan Roca Styling: Visory @thebarbershopbypacolopez

SPAIN

Collection: INOX, created for ‘Advanced Barber’ by Tahe Hair: Paco López (ES) Photography: Estevan Roca Styling: Visory @thebarbershopbypacolopez

PACO LÓPEZ

Collection: INOX, created for ‘Advanced Barber’ by Tahe Hair: Paco López (ES) Photography: Estevan Roca Styling: Visory @thebarbershopbypacolopez

SPAIN

Collection: INOX, created for ‘Advanced Barber’ by Tahe Hair: Paco López (ES) Photography: Estevan Roca Styling: Visory @thebarbershopbypacolopez

INTERV IEW

RETAIL IN THE THE BARBERSHOP DURING THE CORONAVIRUS CRISIS

Q&A WITH JOOST MULLEMAN 36

Dutch barber Joost Mulleman is well-known in the barbering world. After working in different specialised areas in the hairdressing sector, he made a conscious decision to focus exclusively on barbering. He has served as Creative Director of the Barber School Amsterdam and as Chef de Cabine for various fashion shows. In his role as international educator, he gives large-scale hair shows and look & learn sessions worldwide. He became the proud owner of his own barbershop in Rotterdam three years ago: The Garage 39. In addition, he serves as an ambassador for SEB MAN. We asked him about the coronavirus crisis, which has had a huge impact on many businesses, and his vision on product sales.

Impact of the pandemic on product sales I believe this crisis has had a temporary effect on sales in barbershops. This is, of course, first because all hairdressing salons and barbershops in the Netherlands were forced to close for two months. So hardly any products were sold during that period. But in our case, we fortunately have a very loyal group of clients and associates and many of them have bought our own ‘The Garage 39’ merchandise during the crisis. That’s why we did not suffer a loss after sales of hair products came to a standstill earlier this year. Tips for boosting product sells during this period In my view, it’s tough to increase sales during a lockdown period. Because if you want to sell more products during a lockdown, you’ll have to put a massive amount of time and energy into online sales. So you’ll have to have a webshop that your clients and other consumers will be able to find. And that’s difficult 37

because there is huge competition from all the webshops that have been around for longer. I believe it’s important during a lockdown to ensure that as a busines you remain engaged with your client and interested in how his hair looks. You can let them know via channels such as Instagram and Facebook that your business is open at certain times on certain days for product sales and tips. This gives you a chance to encourage your clients to buy products from you rather than online outlets and helps maintain the relationship with the client. When lockdown has been lifted and the barbershop is open as usual, I see product sales as a natural extension of my service. It’s an integrated part of our standard consultation with the client: so you determine with the client when he sits down in the chair which style will suit him and take his habits into account when making this determination. Does he want to spend a little or somewhat more time on his hair? Does he want to blow dry his hair or not? Based on this information, you can give him the right advice on which product or products he will need to achieve the 38

I see product sales as an extension of my service desired look. We give advice in a very natural and subtle way and don’t lay it on too thick or stray into hard selling. At the end of the service, before removing the barber cape, I’ve already placed the related products on the cash register desk. In this way you help your client achieve the same desired result at home. How did you conceive the idea of starting your own line? My ‘The Garage 39’ merchandise line came about through my interest in beautiful and highquality items. In addition to cutting and shaving, I want to create a total experience. It started out as merchandise

from my barbershop, but I purposely disconnected the new designs from ‘The Garage 39’. My aim is to position ‘39’ through a new line as a stand-alone fashion brand. Own hair product line I also have plans to launch my own line of hair products under the ’39’ brand, but only if this does not breach the current contract with SEB MAN. I’ve been thinking about this for a long time and it’s a real dream of mine, so I want to take my time and do it right. For example, I’ve been researching and testing all kinds of self-developed products for several years now. I will, in any

case, only put something on the market if I believe in it 100% and once all the hair products have been fully perfected. Why do clients come back to your barbershop? The great thing about our clients is that they sometimes just drop by for the fun of it – for a cup of coffee or to make an appointment. Or they come by when they want to treat themselves to a first-class haircut or shave. The frequency of their visits depends on the client. Some clients come every other week, while others only return after months. But that doesn’t matter, each and every client must feel equally welcome and appreciated. How do you use social media to build client relationships? We use social media without having any marketing agencies or plans behind our communications. This is how we develop relationships with clients in an authentic way. We use Instagram as a means for sharing our lives, real-life experiences and our daily activities with our clients and followers. We try to post something every day with the aim of giving our followers a sense that they know us and are

actually in the barbershop. This means that new clients already know what to expect when they come to the barbershop for their first appointment. Could something positive come out of this coronavirus crisis? This crisis has affected everyone and as a result all barbers and business owners must find new ways to be distinctive. Being forced to look at how you can approach your business or work differently actually creates space for new ideas and innovations. This has in many cases resulted in great, new and better solutions. That otherwise might not have come about. You could say that business owners are forced to think out of the box. Take for example the wide range of online education on offer and all the new ways of working, which enable these activities to be carried more efficiently and effectively. Businesses have reviewed and optimised their business structures and working method.

sure my clients get what they need? With respect to the latter question, I can go to pretty great lengths. A client recently asked me when placing an order: ‘Will you deliver it?’ In response I drove over an hour to Eindhoven to personally deliver the order. I obviously can’t do that for every client, but I will if I can. That’s how you create goodwill among your clients. What’s important is to remain in interaction with your clients via social media, with a joke thrown in every now and then, just like in real life. So this also means getting in touch with other business owners in your area and asking how they’re doing as a way of showing interest. It’s all about taking a back- to-basics and no-nonsense approach to business.

I’ve also asked myself these key questions: How do I ensure positive contact with my clients? How do I keep my employees satisfied? How do I make

BARBERS & THE CITY

40 40

Team BarberSociety regularly travels to other cities to gain inspiration. The team recently visited some top barbershops in Seville, Spain. We asked these Spanish barbers to share with us their mustvisit hotspots! Once the pandemic is behind us, be sure to visit beautiful Seville, check out these hotspots and drop by these great Spanish barbershops for a haircut! 41

BARBERS & THE CITY

THE BARBER SHOP BY PACO LÓPEZ

Calle Luis de Morales (Edificio Meliá Lebereros), 2 41018 Sevilla – Nervión (Lebreros) +34 955 22 46 30 www.thebarbershop.es @thebarbershopbypacolopez The Barber Shop by Paco López combines the best of both worlds: classic barbering skills and contemporary looks. They always put their clients first. SPA treatments create a luxury experience. It’s a place where men feel at home and new styles are created. Paco López is well known in the world of barbering. He has won numerous national and international awards. He regularly presents amazing collections, which have often been featured in BarberSociety magazine. A photo from his latest collection is on the cover of this edition.

OUR HOTSPOTS Iki Calle Luis de Morales, 2 41018 Sevilla +34 954 44 74 95 www.facebook.com/ Restaurante-IkiSevilla-2049673771986635 Iki is located next to our barbershop in Nervión. I love this restaurant thanks to the warm ambience, wonderful sushi bar (where you can watch the sushi chefs at work) and the amazing selection of superb sushi. They feature wonderful and unexpected flavour combinations such as butterfish with truffle, duck with mandarin sauce and beef with quail egg.

Premier Ronda de Triana, 14 41010 Sevilla +34 954 34 07 14 www.premierginrum.com/ I like to walk through the Triana neighbourhood and have a few cold beers. Any bar in this beautiful neighbourhood next to the Quadalquivir river is amazing. In the afternoons, I meet friends at “Premier”, they serve an extensive selection of classic and signature cocktails that changes with the season. El Corte Ingles There are several El Corte Ingles shops in Seville. www.elcorteingles.es The “El Corte Ingles” department store has shops-in-the-shop offering top men’s fashion brands. It’s the go-to destination for the latest fashions and the best deals.

BARBERS & THE CITY

ROCK & BARBER

Calle Acueducto, bq 6 local 2 41008 Sevilla +34 658 66 70 20 www.rock-barber9.webnode.es @rockandbarber Rock & Barber was born of the union of the David Perez’s two passions. When he was 18 and attending hairdressing college, he dreamt of uniting the barbershop and rock music with the culture of the electric and retro-American guitar. Almost 20 years later, his business has become one of the most famous barbershops in Spain, picking up several national awards and titles along the way. Why are we a special barbershop? At Rock & Barber, we don’t see it as a client-business relationship, we want to be part of our client’s life. We love the fact that they visit us, have a glass of Jack Daniels and chat about music or play music on one of the guitars we have in the shop. 44

OUR HOTSPOTS INVANTXU Espacio Bistronómico Calle Virgen de la Victoria, 5 41011 Sevilla +34 651 93 19 96 www.ivantxu.es I adore good food that is prepared and made with care and dedication. This is why you should be sure to visit Seville’s iconic IVANTXU Espacio Bistronómico to savour their authentic fare at fair prices. As a fan of rock and American culture, I must admit that the Hard Rock Cafe in Seville has a special place in my life. Because of the music, the incredible interior and obviously the legendary burgers.

Zeta Plaza de la Gavidia, 5 41002 Sevilla +34 696 03 63 67 @zetasevilla -&Jazz Corner Calle Radio, 41 41007 Sevilla +34 629 82 86 08 @jazzcornersevilla Zeta and Jazz Corner are the best places for a good cocktail. At Zeta you’ll enjoy incredible cocktails and a selection of spectacular and reasonablypriced snacks and pancakes. The Jazz Corner club is a great spot to have a drink, watch live jazz or blues music or even play a jam with other musicians. It feels like you’re in Chicago or New Orleans, but with all the magic of the Sevillian night.

Nova Era Música Idefonso Marañón Lavín 41019 Sevilla +34 955 15 52 62 www.novaeramusica.com My favourite stores in Seville are NOVA ERA and Matt guitars. Both are two incredible stores where you can buy everything from beautiful clothing and accessories for musicians to guitars that take your breath away. And last but not least, we have A Saco Biker Shop, which is a shop for accessories for bikers. But they also have the best t-shirts, jackets and caps in town.

BARBERS & THE CITY

LAS BARBERAS DE SEVILLA

Calle Pinto, 11 41003 Sevilla +34 955 11 06 10 www.lasbarberasdesevilla.com @lasbarberasdesevilla

This barbershop is a place where clients can have a good haircut or beard trim. But that’s not all. Clients can also relax and enjoy the experience in the barbershop. This barbershop is distinctive thanks to the high quality of the service. They offer the client advice and a wide variety of services that you don’t see often. Clients are also invited to have a drink while enjoying their stay.

OUR HOTSPOTS Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba, 12 41003 Sevilla +34 954 56 36 87 @catalinasevilla We have a lot to see and do in Seville. And there are so many great restaurants. But if I had to pick a favourite, it would have to be Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más or La Quinta restaurants. They’re both great places where you can enjoy excellent cuisine and professional and friendly service.

Ovejas Negras Tapas Calle Hernando Colón, 8 41004 Sevilla +34 955 12 38 11 @ovejasnegrastapas Our favourite bar is Ovejas Negras Tapas. It’s the best place to enjoy a drink and tasty tapas. The staff are always friendly and their menu features a wide selection of dishes. Scalpers There are several Scalpers shops in Seville. www.scalperscompany.com Our favourite men’s clothing stores are Scalpers and Superdry.

BARBERS & THE CITY

LA NAVAJA

Calle Trajano, 50 41002 Sevilla +34 955 27 07 90 www.lanavajabarbershop.com @lanavajabarber La Navaja barber shop was founded in 2016, inspired by the classic style barbers. The owner Jardel is a second-generation barber. The barbershop is located in Alameda de Hercules, a trendy creative district in Seville that has lots of bars and restaurants and a buzzing nightlife. What makes them special? Their customers who have become their friends over time.

OUR HOTSPOTS Condende Calle Feria, 98 41003 Sevilla +34 623 03 55 30 www.condende.pedidosweb.es My favourite restaurant is Condende. The restaurant is located in Mercado Feria, which is a hidden gem, where you can taste food from different parts of the world presented as Spanish tapas.

These Seville barber shops will naturally also be shown in 360-degree virtual tours on the website (www.barbersociety.com/insider). Look out for them on the social channels! 48

The Merchant Calle Canalejas, 12 41001 Sevilla +34 954 223 228 www.merchantpub.com/en My all-time favourite bar is the Merchant. It is an Irish pub with a great selection of beers, live sports and good food. Urban Jungle Calle Sagasta, 7 41004 Sevilla +34 954 21 16 47 www.urbanjunglestore.com/it My favourite shop is Urban Jungle. It specializes in retro and modern sneakers. You can always find a pair of cool sneakers here.

BARBERS BAGS

L I FE ST Y L E

SUCCESS IN THE BAG

Argentina, Italy, Spain, India, the Netherlands. José Mollura’s passion for world-class leather crafting has taken him around the world. With craftsmanship in his DNA, his fascination with traditional leatherworking stems from his great grandfather who was a shoemaker in Cantanzaro in southern Italy. José carries on his ancestors’ devotion to impeccable artisan quality through his leather bags. He has developed his skills by learning in practice and even working voluntarily at a factory in India. His travels ultimately

took him to Amsterdam, which he now calls home. Today he is the proud owner of the José Mollura shop and studio. His designs are in step with the needs of urban professionals who travel by bike. José says the craftsmanship, quality and personal touch are what make his bags distinctive. BarberSociety Magazine met up with José at his shop on the Singel Canal in Amsterdam, next door to Van De Hare Amsterdam Barbers, to learn more about his passion, challenges and ambitions.

Craftsmanship, quality and the personal touch Born to be creative José’s journey of discovery spans three continents and four countries. Wherever his travels take him, he always stays true to his Italian roots of quality craftsmanship. José explains: “I was born and raised in Buenos Aires and then lived in Italy. I have Italian heritage, with my father, grandfather and great grandfather all coming from Italy.” It was clear at a young age that he was destined to learn a craft and create things. “I wasn’t great at school, but my mother always said I had to do something with my creativity.

I’ve always loved working with my hands and making things happen. As a kid, I had a vivid imagination and was always creating stuff with Lego. I was close with my grandfather and he told me that his father, my great grandfather, was a shoemaker in Italy. So I travelled to my great grandfather’s hometown of Cantanzaro in southern Italy. I found the place where he worked and saw the machines he used as a shoemaker. Southern Italy is all about quality craftsmanship, particularly leather. That’s when I said: this is definitely for me; this is what I want to do with my life.” 53

It takes a month from start to finish From Barcelona to India to Amsterdam “I moved to Barcelona and began learning how to make leather goods. I started with small items like wallets and keychains, but then started scaling up. I wanted to make larger objects and began making bags. Soon afterwards I moved to India to learn more about design and leathercrafting and worked at a factory for free. So that’s where I really started making bags. After that I went back to Barcelona. From there I backpacked through Europe and my first stop was Amsterdam. I said immediately: I want to live here. So I stayed and decided that this is the place for me to start making bags professionally. That was 14 years ago and I’m still totally in love with Amsterdam and with my craft.” José also met the love of his life in Amsterdam. “I met my wife in Amsterdam when she was buying a bag years ago. We fell in love and are still together. She’s been key to the success of our business. I’m so grateful to her for her support with the business side of our company. We are a team, she’s my greatest supporter.” Amsterdam vibe in a bag Which place has had the greatest influence on his work? “Definitely Amsterdam. When I’m designing, I always think of how everyone cycles here and how to improve the way they carry stuff on bikes. The city inspires me to make bags and backpacks for cyclists and to incorporate aspects 54

it in real leather and use it for two weeks myself. Then I make any necessary changes. I ask customers what they think and then I make it again. It takes a month from start to finish.”

such as the distribution of weight into my designs. It’s all about adapting your offering to the local culture. That’s why I had to make my new line of waterproof bags. They’re made of oil tanned leather, so they are suited to the rainy climate.” Craftsmanship from start to finish The creative process of making bags requires diverse skills and a keen eye for style and design. José explains: “First I draw it on paper and then cut all the pieces in carton to make the patterns. Then I make a bag in canvas just to see the shape and assess the wearability. After that I make

Quality every step of the way José is committed to quality across the entire process, including the sourcing of the leather. He places great importance on purchasing hides from sustainable sources: “I use vegetable tanned leather from Italy. All the bags come with a certificate of origin. I purchase my leather from a consortium in Tuscany and each piece of leather includes a QR code that lets you see how it is produced without using chemicals.” The big four Men are looking for four main qualities when choosing a bag, José explains: “Functionality, quality, practicality and sustainability. They want something they can’t find somewhere else – an extra strap, etc. They want quality, a logo, perhaps their initials; it’s the personal touch that counts.” This personal touch is reflected

Minimalism means you need just one bag in his tailor-made approach. “Take the bag I created for Marc van de Hare [BarberSociety Founder]. I asked him to show me what he needed and then created a bespoke bag with special pockets for his razors, scissors and other tools.” Bespoke for barbers What is José’s top pick for barbers? “The bowling bag. It’s not big but has plenty of space to put all your tools as a barber. It’s got lots of pockets inside for your scissors and everything.” He says minimalism is also important. “What you don’t need, I don’t put in the bag. Not twenty pockets, but only the couple of pockets you use all the time. If you have too many pockets, the design will be messy. Minimalism to me means you need just one bag – not four or five, one is enough.”

Challenging times The coronavirus pandemic is severely impacting retailers. It’s also been a tough period for José Mollura’s business. “It’s a challenging time because we depend a lot on tourists in the city centre. I’m now focussing more on e-commerce. It’s vital to master digital commerce, you’ve got to have an online presence. I can’t compete with the huge platforms; my only weapon is quality.” He also believes the crisis has spurred creativity, “I developed my new waterproof line during the Coronavirus pandemic. So that’s something positive that’s come out of the crisis.”

me sewing, crafting, etc. That’s how you keep it alive.” A bright future ahead Looking to the future, José sees bright days ahead. “I want to stay in this shop and continue to build the online business. I’d like to scale up, while keeping the focus on quality. My aim is to grow the business without losing the personal touch.”

How can you convey the look and feel of a tactile product like leather goods in the digital world? “I put the process of creating bags on my Instagram. Films of 55

LIFESTYLE

Briefcase Cognac € 550

Swiss Army € 310

Laptop XXX € 340

Gota Roll F56 € 310

Gota Roll Top € 310

Gota Militar Green € 310

Travel Bag € 600

More information www.jose-mollura.com

4 56

LIFESTYLE

JOSÃ&#x2030; MOLLURA

GROOMING

AMERICAN CREW ACUMEN RECHARGING HYDRATING CREAM

Dryer skin needs extra hydration. This cream offers hydration and stimulates and restores skin elasticity thanks to the ginger root extract. This face cream is non-greasy and fast-absorbing. The perfect moisturizing revitalizing cream for men.

More information www.americancrew.com

NEBULA BEARD OIL BY CAPTAIN FAWCETT FOR JOHN PETRUCCI Captain Fawcett presents his latest ‘Signature Series’ with American Rock Royalty John Petrucci. The new range launches with a Beard Balm, Beard Oil and Moustache Wax, distinguished by its simply delectable fragrance. Each 50ml Nebula Beard Oil, whilst stocks last, will include a Limited Edition Nebula Guitar Flow Pick, designed and created by John Petrucci in collaboration with Jim Dunlop. More information www.captainfawcett.com

The ultimate grooming experience for guys in search of an effortlessly cool and polished finish. With a Grooming Tonic to stimulate the scalp and refresh styles, Shave Spray gel allows for precision and control when shaving, whilst the Limited Edition Clay Wax to achieve the ultimate ‘just out of bed’ look.

GROOMING

OSMO GROOMING GIFT PACK

Contest: 1x Grooming Tonic 300ml, 2 x Limited Edition Clay Wax 100ml, 1 x Shave Spray 250ml. More information www.osmo.uk.com

DEPOT NO. 905 EAU DE PARFUM - FRESH BLACK PEPPER DEPOT previously launched the eau de parfum NO. 905 and released it in 7 fragrance variants: Classic Cologne, White Cedar, Fresh Black Pepper, Oriental Soul, Mystic Amber, Dark Tea and Original Oud. The fragrances are also available as eau de toilette, DEPOT NO. 904. FRESH BLACK PEPPER. A fresh, woody and spicy scent. Head notes of lily of the valley, lemon and black pepper blend with heart notes of bay leaf, elemi and cinnamon, with base notes of amber and cedarwood. More information www.depotmaletools.com

IN SHOP

BABYLISSPRO 4RTISTS PROFESSIONAL METAL OUTLINING TRIMMER SKELETONFX – FX7870RE The professional metal outlining trimmer SKELETONFX – FX7870RE by BaBylissPRO® is a professional precision trimmer with zero gap adjustment specially developed with absolute precision in mind because barbers and hairdressers need to have a perfect visibility when they are doing detailed work, close trimming, hair design, hair tattoos & precision cuts. More information www.babylisspro.eu

WAHL CLEANING SPRAY The new WAHL Cleaning Spray has an improved formula. Simply spray the highly effective cleaning spray directly onto the cutting blade while the clippers are on. Then turn off the clippers and wipe the cutting blade with a clean, soft cloth. The spray keeps the cutting blades clean. Prevents corrosion and therefore ensures a long service life of the cutting blades. Available in a 250 ml spray bottle. More information www.wahlglobal.com

IN SHOP

KENT SYNTHETIC IVORY WHITE SHAVING BRUSH Kent Brushes responds to rising demand for ethically sourced grooming products and launches a new high quality super-soft synthetic shaving brush range, to provide men with a traditional shave in the modern era. Kentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new generation of shaving brushes are handcrafted in England and filled with innovative super-soft Silvertex bristles that are stiff enough to lather soaps and creams with ease, but also luxuriously soft to touch on the face and prevent irritation. Suitable for all beards and to use with soaps, creams and gels. More information www.kentbrushes.com

TONDEO CURVED VENT BRUSH The CURVED VENT BRUSH in the ATELIER STYLE series is a brush, which is especially popular for menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s styling and for haircuts with short hair. With the balls at the head of the heat-resistant thermo-nylon bristles, the scalp is massaged at the same time

and the blood circulation is promoted. Thanks to the optimal air circulation, drying time is reduced, and work is more secure and efficient. More information www.tondeo.com

INTERV IEW

BARBER BABE

JESSY HARTSOE

Partnerships in time turn into friendships

BARBERELLA WHO THINKS ‘OUT OF THE BOX’ Jessy Hartsoe has been breaking barriers since she began her career as a barber 26 years ago. She gave up the security of her training programme with Deutsche Post to follow her dream of becoming a barber. She’s never looked back and is now one of Germany’s top barbers. Jessy made history as the first woman to win second place in the 2016 Best Barber in Germany competition. She stands at the helm of Jessy’s BarberGirls in Waghäusel, Germany. It also bucks convention as a two-floor concept store with a barber shop on the ground floor and a menswear shop on the upper floor. Jessy believes the secret to building lasting relationships with clients is to be open, honest and lovable. BarberSociety Magazine met up virtually with Jessy to find out more about her impressive career, vision on barbering and ambitions for the future. 63

We help and support each other more

Go against the flow Jessy Hartsoe was training for a safe and secure career with Deutsche Post when she came to a crossroads and took the path less followed. She decided a career at Germany’s postal service didn’t make her heart race. Her dream was more out of the box: to become a barber. Why did she dare to move out of the comfort zone? Jessy explains,

“I wanted to do something that challenges, inspires and gives me pleasure every day.” She set about fulfilling her dream by completing Germany’s classical training system, a three-year programme that includes both theoretical study and an apprenticeship. “I completed my apprenticeship at a wellestablished hairdressing salon, which gave me the opportunity to develop my skills in hairdressing for both men and women. It was a great experience.” The last laugh Did Jessy face any prejudices from her male counterparts? “In the early days, some male counterparts at a few male-run barbershops made fun of me. It was purely because I broke the so-called norm,” Jessy says. “But they eventually came around after I came in second

Product sales have got to be part of the integrated service place in the 2016 Best Barber in Germany contest. It meant they could no longer deny that I have the skills for the job.” She says that being a successful barber is all about having the right set of skills – both barbering and communications skills. “Men come to my barbershop because they can count on getting a first-rate haircut and a great conversation.”

demonstrations and is a member of barbers’ associations. “We actively participate in guilds and associations with the aim of promoting and developing our profession. But we don’t just participate in barbering events; we also take part in other events that relate to our passions and interests. We go to hot rod meetings, tattoo fairs and rock ‘n roll festivals.”

Creating a cool vibe Jessy’s BarberGirls reflects Jessy’s out-of-the-box approach to life and business. Jessy explains: “The store is unique in a number of ways, not just because it is staffed with four Barberellas. We’ve converted an old farmhouse to create the space. It’s a concept store that’s spread across two floors. There’s a menswear shop on the upper floor offering an exceptionally high-quality range of men’s clothing for fashionconscious men. The barbershop is located on the lower floor. It’s a haven where men can relax and be pampered.” Jessy is committed to continuing to develop the concept store into a total experience for discerning men and apparently has more big plans up her sleeve. “Something will happen in the near future, but I’ll have to keep that a secret for now. Stay tuned!”

Believe in the product Selling products in the barbershop should be a natural part of the service, says Jessy. “Every product sale should be based on a professional consultation. You’ve got to personally believe in the products your selling.”

Community spirit Jessy believes it’s important to play an active role in the barbering community. She frequently attends events, gives

Jessy says it is important to offer a clear-cut range. “Less is more! You need a clearly arranged product range. Not five different hair waxes from four different companies” She is also convinced that you need to offer products that stand out in terms of quality. “The product must exceed the requirements. You should use the products while you’re cutting someone’s hair and explain how to use them properly. It’s got to be part of the integrated service.” Jessy steers clear of hard selling and instead opts for a soft sell approach. “Don’t talk the product up, make a recommendation and leave it up to you client.” Mutually beneficial partnerships Jessy’s BarberGirls is an ambassador for five leading

brands. She is convinced that the relationships with these companies must be developed over time and be based on trust. “If you support each other, both sides will benefit. We work closely with various brands. We’ve built up a relationship of trust with these brands over a long period of time. These relationships grow through knowledge, experience, respect and the know-how of both sides. But the best thing is, these partnerships in time turn into friendships.” Closer together As with all barbers around the world, the coronavirus pandemic is a challenging period for Jessy. She does, however, also see a bright side. “While we each have our own burden to carry, I’ve seen us all move a little closer together since the beginning of the coronavirus pandemic. We help and support each other more. It’s also brought about a lively exchange of information and knowledge. We’re sharing our skills, tips and experiences. That’s a positive development.” Keep on celebrating life Looking to the future, Jessy says she wants to keep moving forward. “I want to keep doing my job, have fun with my girls, celebrate life and make my contribution to the community.” And what is her advice to BarberSociety Magazine readers? “Stay true to yourself, live and love what you do.” 65

A TRIBUTE TO MR SAM WALL It was with great sadness that we have learned of the passing of the much-loved and exceptionally talented barber Sam Wall. He meant a great deal to us and our barber community. He took part in the very first edition of BarberSociety Live and in later editions gave shows and demonstrations and served as a jury member of the BarberSociety battle. His wonderfully creative collections were regularly featured in BarberSociety magazine. We are honouring his memory with a piece that has been beautifully written by his friend and mentor Chris Foster.

Before you witnessed the talent you saw a, smartly dressed guy, the smile and then you heard, “ELLO MATE” This is where your journey started with Sam, his cheeky cockney accent and his contagious smile. Then came his endearing warmth and charm.

And this was all before he picked up a pair of scissors!

Behind the ‘Mr Sam Wall’ brand was a young guy that had the natural ability to share his creativity and knowledge. I can recall many times Sam being studious in his approach. He wanted to become a better presenter and improve his competition work. We would discuss the key skills involved, and then he would go away, study them and wouldn’t be satisfied until he mastered it.

ELLO MATE He also had the ability to take an idea, or concept and implement it like I’d never seen before. All while putting his special twist on it. When I would ask him how does he do it? He would say, “I dunno, I just go on my gut”. To be fair, Sam always played down his achievements but there was no denying his talent. He was an Award-Winning Men’s Stylist, recognised for his distinctive style through all of his work both nationally and internationally. He was based at Hidden Heights Creative studios and worked alongside fellow creatives collaborating in hair, make-up and photography. It was here that I saw Sam became a true entrepreneur.

You may ask, why did Sam’s work and his brand stand out as it did? And the short answer is that he was authentic! His brand was authentic and personal to him. He believed in that personal connection. If he didn’t get that connection he wouldn’t work with the brand. His product range, ‘LETS AVE IT’ personified this ethos of keeping it real and personal to him.

He is and always will be highly respected within the industry. We, his friends will sorely miss him and likewise those who watched and were inspired by his creative journey. I am honoured to call Sam my friend, my mentee and colleague of the industry. Chris Foster Dear Sam, rest in peace.

With his “Sammy Sprinkle” Salt Powder and “How’s That” Cream he stayed true to himself. Sam leaves a legacy of awe-inspiring talent and dedication. He will never be forgotten for his warmth and generous nature. Always complimenting others on their work and successes.

A L L I N T H E FA M I LY

WHAT IS SAID IN THE BARBERSHOP, STAYS IN THE BARBERSHOP

From left to right: Thom Ruitenberg, Martin Leusink, Manfred Vlieger 68

Wim Broekhuis was a second-generation barber in the Dutch town of Elburg until he was involved in an awful road accident and had to sell the four businesses he had built up with his wife. His nephew Martin was just a boy at the time, but at the age of 20 he took over the barbershop his uncle had opened in 1970. He turned it back into a traditional barbershop and resumed the family barbering tradition.

INTERVIEW WITH MARTIN LEUSINK & WIM BROEKHUIS OF KAPPER MARTIN HERENKAPPERS IN ELBURG, THE NETHERLANDS

Shaving assistant Wim: “My grandfather was a clogmaker in Barneveld, but my father moved to Nunspeet. That’s where he met my mother at a local choir, and they opened a barbershop and a household items shop in 1938. I was the youngest of seven children. I remember that only shaves were given on Saturday and that my brother and I would help with the lathering. We’d lather up the gentlemen and my father would then follow with his razor. At the time it was perfectly normal to get a shave once or twice a week. Each shaving client had his own shaving brush that was kept in a drawer. I ended up being the only one in the family to become a barber.” “At the time I didn’t know what line of work I wanted to go into and that’s when my dad said: ‘Why not become a barber?’ So that’s what I decided to do. That’s just the way it went in those days. I attended hairdressing college in Amsterdam. I would go to college in the mornings and work in the salon in downtown Amsterdam in the afternoons.”

This barbershop located where my uncle started out is a dream come true Opening the barbershop in Elburg Long hair was in fashion during that period, which led to a growing number of mixed salons. Even though Wim had earned his diploma for both women’s and men’s hairdressing (which were two separate studies at the time), he consciously opted for men’s hairdressing. Wim explains: “I was really attracted to the technique that goes into men’s haircuts. My first job after graduating from college was a barber at a military base. I was able to apply the technique I’d learned there to longer hair styles as well. After that I worked for a while at a salon in Deventer, before opening my own barbershop in Elburg. I remember clear as day that my rent was 30 guilders a week, which is about 14 euros. My dad thought it would be better for me to start my own place rather than working for him, because he wanted to keep family and business separate and I agree with him. I was the first person to open a ‘modern’ salon in Elburg.” “The salon became a real gathering place. I remember the mayor and several town council members all coming by the same afternoon to get a haircut because they were having a meeting that evening. One of them said that they’d might as well cancel the meeting because everything had already been discussed in the barber shop! But we kept everything that was said in the barbershop to ourselves and our clients knew that. So they felt safe.” 70

Expansion The salon was successful from the outset. Business was, in fact, so good that he soon opened a second salon that was primarily for women. Wim had in the meantime completed the women’s hairdressing programme in Utrecht, but it simply wasn’t his thing. In fact, he hated setting curls with rollers to create coiffures so much that he literally threw his curler pins and curlers together with his diploma in the canal! He decided then and there to focus completely on barbering. He also decided it was better to keep the salons for men and

women separate like they had been in the past. But permanents were also popular for men back in the seventies. And the fact that many men’s hairdressing didn’t know how to do permanents led to the creation of more and more mixed salons. Wim and his wife ultimately had four successful salons. Wim was active in the sector, serving as chairman of a professional hairdresser’s association in Zwolle. He also trained numerous barbers, with several of them going on to win prizes at competitions. Everything was going great until that dreadful day in 1994.

Wim Broekhuis in the barbershop at Jufferenstraat 7 in Elburg in 1970.

A tragic accident Wim accompanied his wife on a choir trip to Vienna and on the way their coach was involved in a tragic accident. Seven people lost their lives. Wim fortunately survived the accident. He was, however, seriously injured and was no longer able to work as a barber. The salons were transferred to his employees and Wim was in rehabilitation for many years. This could have marked the end of the hairdressing dynasty, but Wim had his nephew Martin, who he knew had wanted to be a barber since childhood.

Wim Broekhuis (left) with his father Co Broekhuis (right).

It was now 2002 and Martin began hairdressing college. Wim mentioned to him at a birthday party that the salon located on the Jufferenstraat in Elburg was for sale. Wim asked his nephew straight up if he might be interested in acquiring the salon. Martin was a little taken aback because he had not even finished his training and was only 20 years old. But Wim didn’t see that as a reason not to go for it: “I was 19 when I started out.” Martin was convinced and that’s how he resumed the family tradition. Back in the family Martin continues: “The sociability and interaction with clients at my uncle’s barbershop really appealed to me and it was secretly my dream to work for him one day. Even though things turned out differently, I still ended up going to hairdressing college. So when my uncle put me on the spot at that birthday party, I grabbed my opportunity. I started working three days a week at the barbershop and would go to college two days a week. I was actually supposed to have an apprenticeship one day a week, but fortunately my work in my own salon was counted as an apprenticeship. And that’s how I got started eighteen years ago.”

Co Broekhuis opening the barbershop on Jufferenstraat in Elburg.

Co Broekhuis’ salon in Doornspijk in the 1970s - 1980s.

The Kapper Martin Herenkappers barbershop in Elburg today.

Open to everyone “The really amazing thing about my barbershop is that all kinds of people come here. Just like in the past, it still serves as a great gathering place where people from all walks of life come in for a haircut, a coffee and a good conversation. Our door is always open to everyone. I think it’s so important that as a barber you

Martin Leusink at work.

genuinely give each client the attention they deserve and really listen to them. I’ve witnessed the rise of barbershops from the beginning and I think it’s great! I expect to see even more separate men’s and women’s salons in the future. I’m thrilled that teenage boys as young as fourteen want to go to the barbershop!”

Nice to know Specialities include hair styling and beard grooming The barbershop has four workstations Haircuts for € 21 Open 5 days a week (from 7:15 a.m.!), closed on Sunday and Monday Appointments only Favourite brands: 1922 by J.M. Keune, Artistique and Proraso Kapper Martin Herenkappers Jufferenstraat 7 8081 CP Elburg The Netherlands 0525 681 104 www.kapperelburg.nl @kappermartin

INNOVATE

C O L U M N C H R I S FO S T E R

TO MAKE MONEY DURNG A PANDEMIC

If, like me, your livelihood consists of shaving, fading, and colouring hair, a lot is going on in your mind right now. I could make a lengthy list, but a lot of it has to do with losing clients and [subsequently] money. You are wondering if your business is going to withstand the impact of this covid-19 pandemic. Well, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve all seen sunnier days for sure!

I know you miss the interaction with customers. You chose a business that is ill-built for quarantine, lockdown, and social distancing. We could call it a ‘chatty’ industry. You miss speaking with your workmates and the fulfilment of doing someone’s hair. While this pandemic has not been kind to anybody, barbers and other hair service providers have arguably been the worst hit. On the bright side, none of this will last forever. At some point, it’s going to be business as usual, and when that time comes, people will need their hair done more than ever before (yay!). In the meantime, you need to be a little innovative to stay afloat in these difficult times. There are bills to pay, and the cash has to keep flowing somehow. The following strategies should help you make some money and keep you going in these tough economic times. Extraordinary times call for exceptional measures! Go digital The first and most apparent strategy is taking your business online. There is plenty of scope for you to be innovative when it comes to using online space to grow your business. Creating a WhatsApp group for your regular customers is one of the steps you can take. That can help you post short ‘how-to’ videos, regularly engage the customers who are due a visit to your shop, answering their questions, and such. That may not make you money immediately, but seeing their shaggy manes will convince you of brighter days ahead! In any case, you don’t want to lose your customers post-Covid. Keeping in contact not only shows empathy but also helps you remain relevant. 74

Make your business visible online Still, on using digital platforms to grow your business, you may have noticed that nowadays, people are more glued to their computer and smartphone screens than they hold actual conversations. Most of them are looking for entertainment and ways of shopping online. In these challenging times, how can you use that to your advantage? Well, this is the time to be visible online. Use SEO strategies to claw Google’s search engine results pages. Don’t allow your business to retreat into its shell when there are limitless possibilities online. This is time to strategically place your business online as you anticipate the bounce back surge. You may even be able to make huge sums from your website. However, keep in mind that all good things take time. Home deliveries If you are a competent barber, then you surely know the needs of your customers. They may not be able to come to your barbershop right now, depending

on the restrictions wherever you are, but who says you can’t go to them? Your experience in the beauty industry means you know all the hair merchandise your clients need, and you could be the one delivering them to their doorsteps. They trust you and your services and won’t hesitate to give you orders. Convince them to purchase merchandise from you instead of another retailer. And who says home deliveries have to be about hair and grooming products? You can also assist the elderly with their grocery shopping or contribute to local food banks. This will massively help you build your brand. People need support and interaction in these isolated times, and if you can use your business position to do it, why not? Socially distanced haircuts? Possible! Being a barber, you are used to interacting with your customers from very close quarters. It is practically impossible to social distance while doing a haircut, right? Wrong! There is always room for innovation. You can construct a special booth for you, which will act as a partition between you and the customer, minimizing contact and the risk of infection. Again, this depends on how strict the Covid regulations are in your country. Most importantly, let your customers know the sanitary practices you have taken to guarantee their health. This will build trust and translate to more business for you. Special offers and loyalty programs These are uncertain times for everyone, so it would be good of you to show support to your customers. You can do this by offering them a subscription service that will keep your revenues flowing.

Extraordinary times call for exceptional measures!

Still, on keeping your clients a single, happy family, you could consider opening up a YouTube channel. Here you can share your value-based content, including tutorials, demos, and such. Remember, your customers will be the ones consuming your content and will be more than happy to share it across multiple [social media] platforms. The potential to make money out of this is immense. Consider providing affiliate links to your product recommendations. Also, you could offer one–on–one advice on platforms like Facebook or Zoom. This could be helping your clients do their colour and making it a less complicated process for them or anything related.

You can also try creating loyalty programs, aka rewards/referral program. These will help you keep old clients and attract new ones. Incentivise your clients and encourage them to come back again for your services. Create a loyalty program that is unique to your shop and your clients. Remember, you are looking for a way to retain old customers seamlessly. Technically, you need to create something that ‘benefits’ you more than the client. Chris Foster – ‘the profile guy’! More information www.eliteprofileacademy.com 75

BarberSociety Magazine international Winter 2020 issue (in English)

Articles inside

ALL IN THE FAMILY Interview with Wim Broekhuis & Martin Leusink

COLUMN CHRIS FOSTER Innovate to make money in a pandemic

A TRIBUTE TO MR SAM WALL “Ello mate

BARBERS & BAGS The leather artistry of José Mollura

RETAIL IN THE BARBERSHOP DURING THE CORONAVIRUS CRISIS Q&A with Joost Mulleman

BARBER BABE Interview with Jessy Hartsoe

BARBERS & THE CITY Seville

REBEL WITH A CAUSE Interview with Alan Findlay

TEMPT THE CLIENT … TO BUY MORE Cross-selling & product sales tips

TRENDS Barber Birdman, Pilar Zaragozá & Leticia Martinez, Christian Ríos, Gema Moreno, Salvador Oliver, David Pérez, Paco López

EDITORIAL