Rocky C Issue

December/January 2011

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From the Barber Chair...

Looking Beyond Your Barbering Skills

By Craig “Mr. Taper” Logan

STAFF Craig “Mr. Taper” Logan Master Barber, Educator Editor-In-Chief of B.O.M. ccllogan@gmail.com Vindell “Vinny Barberino” McGill Master Barber, Educator Advertising Manager of B.O.M. vinnybarberino@gmail.com Bashan “B.G. Cutta” Gibbs Master Barber, Shop Owner Distribution Manager of B.O.M. bgcutta1@gmail.com Copy Editor: Sylviette McGill Interns: Adam Watson, Gabriel Rodgers, and Andre Brookins

Hello to all you business people! That’s right, you are a business if you a barber or stylist. Let’s keep the professionalism and the good ethics of the hair industry intact as we go into a new year. 2010 has been an excellent year for Barbers Only Magazine as we reached out to more and more dedicated hair professionals. Unfortunately, we also witnessed the negative side of bad business practices from shops and barbers. Hopefully, as state boards continue to crack down on unlicensed barbers and unprofessional shop owners, the industry as a whole will benefit positively.

BOM had a chance to continue reaching new and experienced barber stylists through its education division and taught several classes at numerous shows. When we began teaching classes in 2007, there were very few barber colleagues who taught along side us. It is refreshing to see other barber professionals in the classroom teaching and promoting the skills and uniqueness of the barber profession. In 2011, let’s continue to focus on becoming better business people by learning and attending the seminars and business classes that are being offered at hair shows across the country and beyond. In order to be successful in business, we must emulate the business practices of successful people. This means developing, refining and excelling in our skills while learning how to grow our businesses.

With this issue, BOM wants to help you become a business man… or woman. We had the chance to speak with several barbers who have capitalized on their business sense and taken their profession to the next level – like Rocky Coello, founder of Rock Did It, LLC and Wallace Barlow, a regular platform artist. We also picked the brain of Ivan Zoot, who most of you may know as the Clipper Guy. We also profiled several shops: one, Sweeny Todd’s Barber Shop, an old-fashion barbershop located in Hollywood, CA, and Premier Barbers, a shop that opened just this year that performs old school services in a new school atmosphere.

Another way to step up your game is to offer other services in addition to the hair cut. Many men are going back to requesting a straight razor shave, so if you have fallen flat on keeping this skill “sharp,” check out our step-by-step and get back to practicing!

Of course this issue is also packed with hair cuts by barbers we find to be exceptional and products that we suggest you try. We hope you enjoy the contents of these pages. The holiday season is here so don’t forget: great businesses always take the time to give back...from the heart.

Thank you for your continues support! Keep cutting... BOM

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Contributors: Toni Love, Walace Barlow, Bakari Autman, Wallace Barlow, Ivan Zoot, “Rocky” Coello, Edwin Antonio, Ant the Barber, Paul Kaniewski, Anne Moratto, Jeremy “JJ” Johnston, Will Williams Special Thanks to: All of our writers, advertisers, subscribers, and fans.

Without you, B.O.M. would not be possible.

Cover Photography by: David Acevedo www.resurrectedmarketing.com

CONTACT INFORMATION: All inquiries can be sent to: info@barbersonlymagazine.com P.O. Box 1248 Atlanta, GA 30301 P: 678-458-5117 TO SUBSCRIBE: Subscriptions are $26.75 (U.S.) www.barbersonlymagazine.com “How-To” DVD series also available online.

How To Cut a Low Fade How To Cut Parts & Designs How To Cut Straight Hair Taper Barbers Only Magazine (B.O.M.) is published for barbers and their clients six times annually. All editorial is the property of B.O.M. with all rights reserved. Reproduction in full or in part must receive written consideration from B.O.M. staff. Views expressed herein do not necessarily reflect the views of B.O.M. or its advertisers.

Contents...

Barber Business Issue FEATURE Barbers Doing Business, Not Playing Business 8 Today, barbers have been recognized and accepted as “business people”.

You need to know how to handle yourself and not just your clippers.

8

HANDLE YOUR BIZNESS Hair Industry Rock Star: Becoming a Platform Artist 13 Strive to reach the next level, yet remain true to your roots.

HEADSHOT Nice Crispies 10, 16, 29 Straight Razor Shaves 26 Beard Care 28

SHOW REVIEW Premier Birmingham 21 SoBe Hair Show 22 Bigen Barber Competition 24 Midwest Barber & Stylist Explosion on 32

DEPARTMENTS Product Analysis 35 Barber Health 40 Community 43 Industry Info. 44 Shop Talk 45 Show Calendar 47

22 BARBER SPOTLIGHT The Clipper Guy: Ivan Zoot 14 This is one qualified educator who knows just as much about the business end as he does about cutting hair…barber style.

Rocky Did it: From Struggle to Success 19

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From the slums of Ecuador, Juan Carlos “Rocky” Coello can finally say he has made it and he wants other barbers to make it also.

SHOP FOCUS Shave and a Hair Cut, Two Bits 36 In 1927, Sweeny Todd’s Barbershop opened on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles. Step inside today where time doesn’t stop, but it definitely slows down.

Old School Services with New School Attitude 38 In January 2010 Jeremy “JJ” Johnston opened up Premier Barbers Barbershop, a long-time goal that was finally realized.

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Feature

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Barbers Doing Business, Not Playing Business

By Toni Love Today, barbers have been recognized and accepted as “business people”.

Barbers are their own business man…or woman. You need to know how to handle yourself and not just your clippers. Even if you are not a shop owner, look at yourself as your own entrepreneur. What skills do you need to succeed? First and foremost, you need the technical skills you learned in school. Display your license prominently to remind yourself and your clients of your professional training. Secondly, you are an artist, using your client’s head, neck, or face as a canvas. Use your creativity to identify the look that is best for them. Thirdly, you must have strong communication skills. You must listen to the client’s requests and follow up on them with questions to get a thorough picture of their lifestyle and their needs. Time management, organization, and marketing skills are also necessary to keep your current customers and bring in new ones.

Successful barbers who understand this business are aware that they are in control of their own destiny. Only a focused, dedicated barber will capitalize on opportunities presented to them as well as create their own path to success. These barbers are “doing business” instead of “playing business.”

Here are a few tips to grow your own business:

Take Charge of your Finances One of the main reasons a business fails is poor financial planning. Learn to resist impulse buys, except on some celebratory occasions. Know what you have in your checking account and set some aside each month to put in a savings account and/or Roth IRA. Be sure to set a yearly financial plan.

Sit down with a financial planner or loan officer to devise a plan. Money management has been a known problem for this industry. Speak to a professional about securing your future.

Use your Time Wisely First and foremost, be respectful of your client’s time. Know if they are in a hurry or have some time to relax. Whether you have five minutes or an hour, use that time to develop a relationship with that client, do your best work, and exceed their expectations. When you are between clients, ask yourself what you should be doing with that time so that at the end of the day, you can go home satisfied with what you accomplished. You may decide to read your textbook or a professional trade magazine (like this one!) to stay abreast of what is going on in the industry. Also remember that clients appreciate a clean, sanitized environment, so you could clean your clippers, sanitize your brushes and other implements, sweep the floor, and check the bathroom. Recruiting more clients is another great past time. Go into the community that surrounds your business and pass out business cards or flyers to potential clients. With current clients, get on the phone and call the ones who haven’t been in for a while; they will appreciate you thinking of them.

Successful barbers

who understand this business are aware that they are in control of their own destiny.

Take Continuing Education Classes Knowledge is the key to success. Continuing education provides a vehicle to teach you business skills like management, marketing, sales, and manufacturing and advanced barbering skills beyond what you learned in school as well as the latest trends. These classes will help prevent you from burning out by constantly sharpening your mind, making you think creatively. Best of all, continuing education, in most cases, is free - attend hair shows and sit in on the classes.

Network within the Barbering Community Social networking sites are a great way to meet people in your profession from across the world. You can also meet fellow barbers by showcasing your skills at community events or trade shows. If you meet or see someone doing something you want to learn, approach them and ask questions. Follow up with them and build a relationship. You may also want to find a mentor to assist in your growth – and be a mentor to someone who is still in school.

Learn to Upsell Embrace your inner salesman. Sure, the client only came in for a trim, but suggest a shave and a color. Maybe their son who came in with them could use a design cut to show off at the next school football game. There are haircare and skincare products geared towards every type of need or problem.

Be sure to stock and sell products to every client before they leave your chair. Product knowledge classes are available to learn everything about the product line you are retailing. The more you know, the more you will sell.

Remember, selling is a transfer of feelings. If the client “feels” your sincerity and passion about the product, they will buy it. This also applies to selling additional services; tell the client why he should add the service, how it will enhance his look.

Become Self Aware A professional understands their strengths and weaknesses. No one is good at everything, and clients don’t expect this from you. Take inventory of what makes you a unique, talented professional. When you understand these traits, you can capitalize on them by marketing yourself accordingly. For example, if you are great with the razor, be sure to mention it in all your advertisements. Use your strengths as a slogan and display it on your business cards and flyers – this will help you stand out from the competition. Once you become aware of your strengths, look like what you are selling! You are “walking advertisement” for your business. As for your weak areas, you can always working on developing those skills, but for now, stay away from those services and be honest with your clients. You could refer them to a co-worker for those services and maybe your co-worker will do the same for you in return. BOM

Toni Love is a licensed barber and cosmetology instructor based in Atlanta, GA. She holds a BA in Business Management and an MA in Continuing Education. She is a published author of “The World of Wigs, Weaves, and Extensions” and hosts continuing education classes for barbers and cosmetologists throughout the U.S. and abroad. For more information visit her Web site at tonilove.com and on Facebook as “Toni Love Cosmetology.”

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H

HeadShot - 360 o

Cut by Bakari Autman, owner, Sport Cuts Barbershop Olympia Fields,IL “I first used a temporary color on my client then gave him a dark Ceasar and tapered the sides and back out, finishing up with a straight razor lining.�

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Handle Your Bizness

HYB

Hair Industry Rock Star: Pl P Platform latform A Artist rtist Striving to reach the next level, yet remaining true to his roots as a barber, rbeer, Wallace Barlow looked past the doors of the barber shop and connected ecteed himself to an industry. He learned about products, how to cut different ereent types of hair, how to style women’s hair, and how to be a businessman. n. His Hiss passion, commitment, and professionalism attracted the attention off the th he Andis Company, hiring him on to be one of their platform artists. Wallace llacee shared his story with BOM for other barbers wanting to take a similar path: Q: What does it mean to be a platform artist? trad de Platform artist represents a company by presenting on stage (typically at trade ductts, shows on the show floor or in a classroom), demonstrating their products, rti tissstt letting the audience know what the company is all about. A platform aarti ng to o has to capture that attention of an audience in a room full of others trying ng to to direct attention towards them. Once their focus is on you they are looking to be entertained, but learn something at the same time. Your primary focuss is to sell and teach technique. It’s an exciting job and a lot of work!

Q: What skills to you need to become a platform artist? yo our To become a platform artist in cosmetology, you must foremost master your n skill as a stylist or barber, being able to work quickly and efficiently. You then witth. have to know the products and tools of the company you are working with. pub bliic Beyond this you have to be an educator, entertainer, salesperson, and public speaker all at the same time.

Q: How do you become a platform artist? tten nd If you are interested in taking this step, you have to start networking; att end trade shows and reach out to the exhibiting companies. Be willing to volunolun nteer your services at first as a test run. Know the company and their products. duc ucts.

Come prepared to support their mission and reach their goals. Know w thatt for most people, this will not be a full time job, or even a part time job, but something to pad the paycheck and advance your career by the added exposure you will receive.

Q: How much do you have to travel?

There are all types of platform artists. Some are regional while others can be on the road with a company year round. Travel can range between two to four times a year up to four times a month.

Platform Artist Skill Set

Q: How did you end up working with Andis?

I crossed paths with Ivan Zoot, director of education, at a Premier show while working with Woody’s Grooming. Ivan told me, “I know you can cut hair, but can you sell my product?”. He approached me about an Andis “All Star” opportunity in which my skills would be screened on stage. I took it and from there I was on board with Andis.

Master Barber/Stylist

Q: What do you like best about it?

I love to engage the crowd and to inspire, create, and change the outlook of seasoned professionals as well as new talent in the industry. Platform artists are trend setters and I like to think that my work inspired someone to try something they had never thought of. I love to share knowledge!

Entertainer

Q: What do you like least about it?

I love it all, but if I had to pick something I would say preparation. Each presentation is different so you have to consonantly be thinking about what you can try next. You are always using new products and tools also, so you have to be very familiar with them in advance so you are ready to answer any question that is thrown at you about them.

Educator Salesperson Public Speaker

Q: How do you attract attention to yourself on stage?

I bring out my inner “Rock Star.” I do this by delivering a presentation with confidence and enthusiasm while utilizing my skills. I also always dress the part. If you want to be a rock star, start by dressing like one! BOM Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 13

Barber Spotlight The Clipper Guy: Ivan Zoot Whether you know him as Ivan Zoot or simply “Clipper Guy” if you have been involved in the hair industry for any length of time, you know him or know of him. He has made a name for himself in the industry, outside of Andis, the company he has long represented, by captivating an audience on stage at trade shows across the nation, posting how-to videos almost daily on You Tube, and writing his own books and developing his own product line. Ivan is also the record holder of three impressive Guinness World Records: single fastest haircut (55 seconds), the most professional haircuts in one hour (34), and most haircuts in 24 hours (340). This is one qualified educator who knows just as much about the business end as he does about cutting hair…barber style.

Q: How did you get started in barbering?

I went to cosmetology school and caught the short hair bug when working in a salon. I got interested in clipper cutting and men’s hair cutting and decided to go to barber school as well.

Q: From a strictly barber standpoint, what makes you unique?

The combination of both cosmetology and barber backgrounds. My understanding of balancing service/quality and efficiency, my development of the revolution cutting system which allowed me to break the Guinness World haircutting records.

Q: How did you get your nickname “Clipper Guy”? How did it evolve?

While I was in restaurants, airports, and other public places before during and after hair shows, I would hear people say, “Hey! It is Clipper Guy!” It stuck. Maybe they did not know my real name.

Q: How did you learn your knowledge on barbering and the business of it?

How do you keep it updated?

I learned from other barbers after barber school. I cut 45 to 50 heads every day for years. There is no substitute for experience. I have continued to at-

“

[Barbers] want to put in a line and work hard to take it out.

I demonstrate the idea that you don’t have to do it like that.

“

tend hair shows and take classes. I also hang out in barber shops and I watch YouTube videos.

Q: How do you stay involved in the barbering community?

By visiting shops, presenting at shows, and stay actively involved in webbased social media.

Q: What is your favorite cut to do?

I love to share and demonstrate classic taper cuts, but flat tops and fades are faves of mine. Flat tops for the discipline - right or wrong - and fades because my cutting system is easier and provokes controversy with barbers; it makes fading fast and easy and many will not accept that it is this easy to do. They want to put in a line and work hard to take it out. I demonstrate the idea that you do not have to do it like that.

Q: In what different capacities have you worked at Andis?

Initially I was a contract educator, working in my shop and doing shows on the weekends. I was brought on full time as director of education six years ago.

Q: What is the best thing about the barber industry today?

Limitless opportunity to serve people and earn a good living and provide security for yourself and your family.

Q: What would help to improve the barber industry?

Higher levels of professionalism and regulation; licensure and sanitation compliance; raise the impression of the industry in the eyes of the public; raise haircut prices.

Q: Why did you go after the World’s Fastest Haircutter title? What’s it like to own it year after year?

I broke the records as a publicity stunt for my shop. I reclaimed them 10 years later by raising the bar and the records by a lot. It is now time for a new haircutter in the business to learn my system and break my records.

Everyone has a shot. Whose turn is it next?

Q: Why have you decided to manufacture your own line of products?

Book series?

I promote and sell the Andis brand. The ClipperGuy brand is my own and has value in the eyes of the barber and stylist community as well.

Q: Why have you gone digital with your information, providing so much free content online?

The books and the books on CD are available for purchase. I also have documents online for sale. The free information is there to support the business.

People see and enjoy the free information and come back to buy the rest.

Smooth Cuts in Kenosha, WI near the Andis factory. “These guys do a lot of prototype testing for Andis and me.” From left to right: Kenneth Smits, “Fatty”, “Bubba” Hamilton,Claude Jr. III, and Ivan Zoot (front, middle).

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Q: What are your words to live by?

“If you do not put the line in, you do not have to take the line out!” BOM

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HeadShot - Best in Show S H Exceptional design cuts seen at national hair shows this season

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Barber Spotlight Rocky Did it: From Struggle to Success From the slums of Ecuador, Juan Carlos Caarlos “Rocky” Coello can finally say he has made it and he wants other barbers beers to make it also. Through his company, Rock Did It, he promotes “If I did d it, itt, so can you!”

Living it up in Miami, FL, FLL, Rocky has been the barber/ r/ stylist for runway models, on set att high profile music videos videos, s, actors, boxers, NBA players as we well ell as an instructor at a barber school and platform artist for Andis. He works hard. He works with precision. And nd d he always presentss himself with professional style.. He H realizes that so o many people take so much forr granted.

Instead of g of following suite, he never forgets w where from, here he came from m, using his past to make himself bett er prepared for thee ett tter future he wants to create for himself mself and others.

BOM caught up with Rocky Ro ocky to learn more about his back story and how barbers can w other o n succeed in their own careers.

Q: How do you describe yourself? f??

I’m very passionate. I don’t need to be alrightt d much m since I lived in the worst conditions but nss growing up, bu ut I am also very picky now. I guess I have developed developeed this over the years because now w I think only of of the best, work for only the best, an and nd expect onlyy the best. I used to be intimidated ed d by people because they had more educati ation, o more money, more credentials, and contacts. co ontacts.

They had full color brochures; they th heyy were in magazines and they had had a celebrity clientele. I didn’t havee all allll those things, but I knew that providing viidiin ng for my family was more important orrta t t tant than my feeling inferior; it was waas more mor oree important than my fear. But as my career careeerr advanced, I began to have those things hings and more, mo ore,, but have never forgotten where I ca came me from.

Q: What was life like growing up? p?

I am from Guayaquil, Ecuador which wh hich is the capital capita tal of the Ecuadorian province of Guayas.

Guaayas. The city itself itssel ef is gorgeous – full of exotic birds, plants, exoti ants, great-tasting exo oticc food, and very humble people. However, However, like manyy off the city’s citizens, my family wass very lived v poor and we live ed in the slum area. The only wayy I can describe it is like liike those commercials that shows the he child with no clothes, cloth hess, food, or medicine asking you to send seend in a dollar to help he p cloth, feed, and medicate the child…well, hild d…well, maybe even evven n worse than that. But my family had had a close bond and an nd we made it together. I lived theree until I was 9 years old, which is when my grandmaa was w able to bring brin ng several members of my family to o tthe he U.S. legally.

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Barber Spotlight

(cont.)

Q: How do you stay connected to your roots?

Through my company I founded the RockDidIt Foundation in 2009 which aims to help the children in the city where I am from. So far we have handed out $10,000 in unwrapped toys, food, and clothing. It’s great to personally be able to go back there and make a difference in the lives of children who were just like me. My philosophy on life extends past barbering to anyone who wants to make something of their life.

Q: Why did you become a barber? How long have you been a barber?

I found my passion at the early age of 12 while trying to fit in with the new crowd at school. Not being able to afford a haircut cut made me think creatively.

I recreated a traditional fade using unconventional tools like a Gillette razor and a mirror. This was only the beginning. I began gan using myself as a canvas.

My styles began to get noticed at school and before fore you knew it, I had established a clientele paying $8 for a unique look. Not bad for a 13 year old! At the age of 16, I decided to go to barber school and make official my dream of becoming a legitimate master barber.

Q: How do you describe your business?

My company, Rock Did It, has started educational seminars called Cutting Image Seminars. I am in the process of developing ping a product line as well. I hope that all of this will provide others with the he opportunity to learn what I have learned: it’s important to not only havee the technical skills, but the mental skills that keep you in the game and moving forward. You have to constantly look for ways to win; this is what enables you to act on your dreams. It’s important to search for and find the things that give your life special meaning and power.

Q: What do you mean by your slogan “If I Did It, So Can You!” ?

I want to represent possibility, the idea that you ou really can make anything happen. Barbers need to understand that rather her than feeling the affect of what’s going on around them, they need to make things happen. Make a choice! Don’t let others decide for you; you decide ecide what is gonna be, who you’re gonna be, and how you’re going to do it! I believe it’s better to be prepared for an opportunity and not have one, then to have an opportunity and not be prepared.

As far as whether others can do what I have done and will continue to do, the only thing that is distinctly different nt about me is that I’m not afraid to die on a tread mill; I will run and I willll not be outworked! Period.

You might have more talent than me; you might ght be smarter than me; you might be taller than me; you might be sexier than me, but if we get on a tread mill together, you’re getting off first or I’m m going to die trying. Other barbers just need the same drive to succeed and I can help give that to them.

Q: Why are you going to be successful ?

I have short term as well as long term goals and a path set to make it all happen. I have been designing a line of products that will be launched soon. That is my short term goal. After that I want to begin on something I have worked rked on for a few years now and have the businesss plan ready: a beauty and barber college. Then lastt on my list is a chain of barbershops/salons. I am able to do all of this because of the recognition I have received ved from the industry. I also thank God for everyything I have been able to achieve and the patience the path I have taken has provided me.

Q: What is the most important thing a barber ber can do to advance their career?

It’s important to realize that good work should d always be rewarded and not underpaid. Even in today’s ’s economy, don’t cheat yourself out of what your work iss worth. You must 20 | barbersonlymagazine.com | Dec./Jan. 2011

take pride in what you do. Also, comply with all state licensures and state regulations at all times. Teach what you know to others and allow yourself to be taught. All of this will help make you great.

Q: What is one skill that will set a barber apart from other barbers?

It’s very important to have the ability to promise yourself to be so strong so that nothing can disturb your peace of mind. It’s important to look at the sunny side of everything and make your optimism come true. Give so much time to the improvement of yourself that you have no time to criticize others. Think only of the best, work only for the best, and expect only the best. Learn from the mistakes of the past and press on to the greater achievements of the future. Live in the faith that the whole world is on your side so long as you are true to the best that is in you.

Q: What other advice do you want to offer to barbers in various stages of their career?

Think of some major goal you want, or maybe one you’re already working on. You may have experienced a lot of setback, many defeats. We’ve all lived through disappointments so don’t give up. Find encouragement. Here’s what I want you to realize: there are winners, losers, and then there are people who have not discovered how to win. Reach out to others.

Ask for help and get assistance. Maybe you just need some insight or a different plan of action. You have unlimited power within yourself. You just need to know how to access it. BOM

ShowReview For the third year in a row, Barbers Only Magazine were special guest educators of the Premiere Birmingham show. As one of the first barber educators at the Premiere Shows, BOM holds a special affinity for the shows and the attendees. Not surprisingly, this Birmingham show was the best ever! The show had major barber contributions from BOM (of course), Kristi Faulkner of Wahl, Major League Barber, Barber Vintage, and others. It was refreshing to witness a show that had a major impact for barbers as well as stylists.

Barbers Only Magazine taught their “Quality Designs & Tapers” class to capacity crowd. The class was full of inquisitive guests and had great audience participation. Barbers from Alabama, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Florida were all treated to an informative class. Many of the barber educator classes were also full and BOM made sure we sat in on each class to show our support. However, BOM’s last class only had one guest! The Clipper and Trimmer Maintenance class was empty due to a scheduling issue, being held just one hour before the show ended. We enjoyed our time in B-ham! We look forward to the emerging barber influence next October!

Special shout outs go to Roderick S. with Andis and the How to… guys from Chi-town, Jaye Da Barber, Atlanta Beauty & Barber Supply, and Ms. Deana Julia of Premiere for inviting us! BOM

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SoBe Hair Show

ShowReview

Photos by Craig Logan and Edwin Antonio The South Beach (SOBE) Beauty show is an energizing, up-and-coming hair show in Miami, FL that is full of potential. As one of the new events on the beauty trade show circuit, SOBE showed originality with a music performancebased opening, featuring R&B starlet, Jazmine Sullivan. The Top 10 artist electrified the crowd with her #1 hit, “Holding Me Down”. The show featured stylist competitions and salon showcases from some of Miami’s best. Unfortunately, the barber competition was inexplicably cancelled.

However, some of the best barbers in the industry were represented. James Mack and Rocky Coello featured some of their design skills at their booth.

Curtis Smith and his Xotics team were featuring their new hair products and outstanding cutting skills. Kenny Duncan of Andis and ClipperEducation.com also showcased his skills and represented for the tonsorial industry. Overall, the show has a promising future. BOM looks forward to more barber participation in future shows. BOM

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ShowReview Bigen Hair Color Competition Earlier this year, Bigen hosted their second annual Hair Color Competition in four cites. Barbers from Chicago, Atlanta, Los Angeles, and New Jersey competed for a chance at the grand prize finale in Atlanta, GA. The four regional winners were: James Ford (Chicago), Herman Ashley (Los Angeles), Lamik Lewis (New Jersey-now resides in Atlanta), and Henry Kelly (Atlanta).

The barbers had 90 minutes to complete a precise, unique, and superior haircut using Bigen Hair Color and their clippers. B.O.M. covered the regional and grand finale competitions in Atlanta thanks to the support from Reggie Marble of Bigen and Melissa Lau of Hoyu America. Over 100 barbers competed in the entire competitions and they all showed excellent tonsorial skills. The overall winner of the finale in Atlanta was Lamik Lewis of Flawless Cuts in Lithonia, GA. He consistently showed superior cutting and coloring skills in each competition and impressed the crowd as well as the tough judges. BOM BOM

Mr. Lamik Lewis won $5,000 and the crown of the National Bigen Hair Coloring Barber Champion!

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Straight Razor Shaves Make a Comeback S H

By Ant the Barber, Hartford, CT

A close shave is hard to come by nowadays without the professional touch of a barber’s straight razor. Thankfully, more coverage of this lost art form has been hitting the internet and television, causing more consumers to rediscover the benefits of the straight razor shave. However, this is not a service to jump in and perform until you are completely familiar with the technique and comfortable with the blade. While learning, the shave is going to look much worse than what you can do with a disposable razor, but with practice, clients will be lining up for a smooth shave from you. This is not a task often performed at home so barber shops are finding a resurgence opportunity for this service. In addition to face and head shaves, straight razors can be used for finishing work or even cutting hair. So, sharpen your blade…and your skills.

Tools and Products There are two types of straight razors: changeable and conventional. Both razors look similar and are used in the same manner, however the benefits to using the changeable blade razor is the ease to which the blade is replaced from one client to another, meeting sanitation standards in the barber shop.

Changeable blades are also lighter than conventional razors. Conventional straight razors are the traditional kind. They require honing and stropping to maintain an even, sharp cutting edge. The razor’s handles can be made from hard rubber, plastic, bone, or new polymer materials which is a good selection for choosing a personal preference.

The products you p y will use with a shave include shavingg cream,, shaving aving lotion, or soaps; a hot towel; and a bump lotion. Make sure you have something mething for clients with sensitive skin. You should also have a styptic powder on hand for any cuts. Some barbers like to use a boar-hair shaving brush and cup p to mix their own shaving cream or they have a hot lather machine which, all you u have to do is push a butt tton for thee warm cream come am to com me out. t. It’s best not no ot to use regular canned nned shavee cream for straight razor shaves, aves, as they th hey don’t lubricate enough. Other nice shaving aving extrass are the hot towel box. There are plenty of products on thee market, or o you can create your own.

How ow To Se Sell ell A Shave Most ost of the time you won’t have to work too hard on selling your client on a hot ot shave. Most guys know someone who has had a professional shave or know ow what a treat it is from watching the movies. Depending on how often your ur client is already coming in for a haircut, ask him about adding a shave, which ich would be a good once a week or even twice a week add on. Clients will most ost likely maintain m the shave at home since they most likely shave every morning. orning. If you yo ou are having trouble selling them on it, describe to them how good od the shave shaave feels after a hot towel over the face and complimentary shoulder oulder or ttemple emple massage. It’s a nice way to relax at the barber shop. Let them how em know ho ow long it will take, which should be about 20 minutes, or longer if you ou think they th hey need the extra attention.

Safety fety Tips Tips Moles, oles, skin tags, taags, pimples, razor bumps, or any other kind of raised marks on thee skin could d be cut off with the razor, causing discomfort to your client. Tight areas, eas, like thee earlobes and upper lip require extra attention and focus as well.

To prevent anyy mishaps, make sure to stretch the skin while working. Remember that at any side-to-side side--to-side motion with the blade will cut, so always move on an angle. gle. Don’t try t to cut everything with one pass; slow down and take multiple

26 | barbersonlymagazine.com | Dec./Jan. 2011

passes, working area by area.

Also, remember that every client is different. To guarantee your best work and the client’s total satisfaction, it’s necessary to establish an open line of communication as soon as the client sits down in your chair. Find out if they have allergies, sensitive skin, concerns about their skin, etc. It’s also important to be able to answer questions regarding your services, techniques, products, and the after care.

Sanitation How to keep your tools clean and performing their best depends on what kind of razor you have. If you’re using a changeable blade, change out the blade after every use and spray down the holder with a disinfectant, such as 5-n-1 spray. If you have a conventional straight razor, then sharpening and stropping the blade is the proper method. Both should be thoroughly dried after each use and stored in a dry place to prevent rusting. Don’t neglect your other products either. The shaving brush should be cleaned and dried by shaking out excess moisture and hung upside down. BOM Anthony Evangelista (aka “Ant the Barber”) currently works at 3D Barber Salon in East Hartford, CT. He has been a professional for two years. Ant said his shop predominantly does a lot of fades, blow outs, tapers, Bigen cuts, designs, and many straight razor services. He plans to open his own shop in two years that will be strictly offer barbering services. He appreciates old school techniques and services, like hot towel shaves, but with the ability to do the latest trends in hair styles and designs. In extra addition to his shop would be a counter to sell cigars. He wants his shop to be a place where a father can bring his son or a son could bring his father and everyone will be welcome.

Straight Razor Service, Step-by-Step 1. Welcome client to the shop as soon as they come in, addressing them by name if possible.

2. Sit them in your chair for a consultation to find out what services they want; some small chat here may be appropriate to help you determine if they seem like they are in a rush or have time to relax.

3. Place a neck strip on and a drape over the client.

Step away for a moment to allow them to get comfortable.

4. Proceed with the haircut before the shave.

5. Once they have approved of the cut, dust off their neck to remove loose hairs to keep them comfortable. Then, place a hot towel on the client’s face. Ask them if it is too warm while you are laying it down so as not to burn them. While he is relaxing, prepare the shaving cream and fill a bowel with water for rinsing off the lather between strokes. Leave the towel there until it has cooled. Apply it again if they have time to relax while giving them a complimentary neck or head massage.

6. Remove the towel and begin applying the lather with the brush, thickly and evenly anywhere you will be shaving, using paintbrush-like strokes. Let this sit on the hair so it can penetrate the follicles.

7. Shave the client, start with the face, then jaw line, finally the neck. Hold the blade angled at about 20 degrees, stretching the skin as you go.

Re-lather if it starts to dry out. The first pass should be with the grain, using short strokes.

Transition to sideways to the grain with longer strokes, and finally against the grain with longer strokes. Three passes should suffice. You may prefer to have no lather on the third pass so you can better see what you are doing and make sure you didn’t miss anything.

8. Use a clean, wet towel to thoroughly remove any remaining cream and/or hair. This towel should be cold to close the pores.

9. Follow up by using a cotton swab to wipe the shaved area with an astringent to clear off the remaining shaving soap.

10. Make sure the client is satisfied with the final product, inform them of any after care, and remove the drape and neck strip.

11. Get paid!

12. Properly clean and store your tools and supplies.

Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 27

HS Growing Trend: Beards

By Paul Kaniewski

Until recently, men with beards have had few choices when it comes to services and products that cater to their needs. Clean-shaven men can go to a local barber shop to have their facial hair taken off with a hot towel treatment and a straight razor shave. There they can relax, be pampered, and perhaps purchase a shaving cream or shave kit for touchups at home. For men with beards, the grooming option is often reduced to a trim at the kitchen sink with a pair of manicure scissors.

For barbers, the current beard trends and the lack of services and products provides a real opportunity to reach out to men and generate more business. At Truman’s Gentlemen’s Groomers in New York City, which provides men with classic services such as shaves and shoe shines, there are a number of options for men with facial hair. Truman’s has offered beard shaping, moustache trims, and neck shaves to men since they first opened their doors four years ago. Recently they’ve seen an increase in both men with facial hair and beard shaping.

“We’re seeing more men with beards. Right now, there’s a lot of interest in beard shaping and old school styles, like goatees and Van Dykes [a goatee-moustache combination]” said Garrett Pike, a barber at Truman’s.

“There are more men with beards, but there are also men who have always had beards who are taking more pride in them and in their appearance overall. If they didn’t come to us, they might be taking care of their beard at home.”

One misconception many people have is that men with beards just let them grow—no maintenance required. But that is far from the truth. Most men with beards are taking care of them on a regular basis, whether it’s with daily neck shaves or a pass with clippers every few days. The pride many men have for their beards can be seen by the proliferation of beard Web sites and online beard trimming tutorials.

YouTube, for example, has over 500 clips dedicated to beard trims, and hundreds of other videos showing how to care for goatees and moustaches.

A barber shop can easily integrate facial hair services and products into their existing menu. For example, in place of a full shave, a neck shave, beard wash, and beard shaping session can provide the “hot towel” experience to men who do not wish to part with their beards. “We have a lot of men that come in for a combination, where they’re getting a beard trim and also a shave” said Pike. “A good shave to the neck and cheeks can help define the beard.”

It can also be a great add-on service to a man’s haircut. Truman’s offers a beard trim, with clipper services and beard shaping, for $30. For other ideas, just look to the world of hair care. Beard hair tends to be coarse, so one option is to provide a conditioner to help soften hair and provide shine. Many men with beards are familiar with color treatments, so beard coloring options may be just the thing for a man who wants to get out the gray. A good facial massage and beard wash can combat stress.

Barber shops can increase the potential for retail sales by using products designed specifically for the beard. These can be used for treatments and sold to customers to take home, increasing the potential for retail sales. This is a fairly new opportunity for barber shops. Fortunately, the interest in beard grooming has helped spur new product innovation, and there are now many product choices for shops looking to offer beard services. BOM Paul Kaniewski is the co-founder of Bluebeards Original Beard Products, a company dedicated to providing high-quality products to men with facial hair. For information about Bluebeards Original products, visit bluebeardsoriginal.com.

28 | barbersonlymagazine.com | Dec./Jan. 2011

One misconception many people have is that men with beards just let them grow— no maintenance required.

But that is far from the truth.

NICE CRISPIES: TROPHY CUT

HS

Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 29

ShowReview

2010 Midwest Barber and Stylist Explosion Des Moines, Iowa was the place to be for the Second Annual Midwest Barber and Stylist Explosion.

That’s right…Iowa. Barbers Only Magazine was asked by Big Rob, the show’s promoter and owner of Des Moines’ Platinum Kutz Barbershop, to help host this hair industry event. Even though the city was blanketed in at least a foot of snow, the show packed heat and a crowd that filled the room! The show was hosted on the top floor of a massive indusial-style 4-story building. The design competition began an hour before the show. The barbers showed serious creativity in their designs. Some of the barber artwork included Michael Jackson, Ice Cube, and the Cheetos Cat. Many of these design barbers are not only creative, but also very quick with their hair art. Then the salon and stylists were on and they did not disappoint. The salon competition had incredible costumes, intense and hilarious skits, and plenty of beautiful stylists. Des Moines talents did not disappoint - small town, but BIG skills!

The Midwest Barber and Stylist Explosion is definitely one of the top shows of the year and a mustsee for those on the Midwest! Special shout out to all the shops, salons, and exhibitors that represented…

32 | barbersonlymagazine.com | Dec./Jan. 2011

A.R.T. Professional Clipper Trimmer Sett A.R.T.’s (Advanced Research and Technologies) professional onal cordless mic adjustable clippers and cordless trimmer combine titanium and ceramic blades for excellent cutting performance with ultimate comfort ort for the user, mer set includes thanks to an ergonomic design. The CL-061 Clipper and Trimmer se with power the clipper, trimmer, four Ni-MH batteries, dual charging base adaptor, five comb guides, oil, cleaning brush, and carrying case. For more information, visit artlp.us.

Creative Hair Tools Combs Creative Professional handmade combs are sawed from a single sheet of ently rounded. high quality Italian produced cellulos acetate, with teeth gently There are no burrs to catch and break hair, causing split ends. Ordinary eams between combs are molded from plastic and have burrs and jagged seams eless. Featured the teeth that break and damage hair, making it dull and lifeless. mical Resistant are their Hard Rubber Wide Tooth Combs and Heat & Chemical combs. For more information, visit creativehairtools.com.

Towel Dry TOWELDRY has simplified the grooming process by creating high-performance multi-function products that give the pro-fessional and clients what they want with minimum amountt s: of decision making. The haircare line consists of two products: ler, a shampoo with built-in conditioners and a low-touch styler, hick or packaged for three dierent hair types (fine, medium, and thick curly). All products are made with natural extracts and plant derivatives, re information, proteins that strengthen hair and stimulate growth. For more visit toweldrymen.com.

Classic Pro Clipper attachments Classic Pro was established in 2001 because Founder Mark Mushenko found plastic clipper attachments as sharp, flimsy, and uncomfortable to clients.

Classic Pro clipper attachments are made of aluminum with a stainless steel adjustable clip. They are coated in a durable, colored epoxy finish that distinguishes each size and increases the radius on the toe and heal for client co o For o more o e informati o a on, o , visit s classicpro.biz. c ass cp o b comfort.

Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 35

shopFOCUS

Shave and a Hair Cut, Two Bits

By Anne Moratto, Photos by Tom Moratto

In 1927, Charles Lindbergh made the first solo non-stop flight from New York to Paris and the first transatlantic phone call—from New York City to London —was successfully placed. In that year, a barber shop opened on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles. Today, more than 80 years later, we elected our first African American president, NASA sent up a spacecraft to search for other habitable planets, and a barber pole continues to stand on the sidewalk. While the Boulevard of Dreams and the world around it has undergone sweeping changes, barbering is still done the old-fashioned way at Sweeney Todd’s Barber Shop.

Step inside Sweeney Todd’s and if time doesn’t stop, it definitely slows down. You are now in Hollywood circa 1953. The spare interior holds only what a barber needs to do a straight razor shave, a classic cut, and a neat moustache or beard trim. Three stations are staffed by barbers in traditional white smocks and the back bars are stocked with iconic barber shop staples—Lustray After Shave, Jeris Hair Tonic, Clubman Talc. Owner Todd Lahman sports a pencil-thin moustache and has styled his shop to reflect his own interest in all-things vintage. “This is something I have always wanted to do and I try to make sure everyone is happy when they leave here.”

Lahman attended barber college in California because he wanted to learn a solid trade that wasn’t victim to the whims of trends. In 2007, he purchased the shop and renamed it. Three barbers, including Lahman, are busy at work on the day I visit, their chairs always full and men sitting patiently on the long banquette against the wall, waiting their turn. I must admit, I feel a bit conspicuous as the only woman in this decidedly male environment. But soon, the soft strains of Big Band music set me at ease and the familiar scent of Bay Rum reminds me of the pleasure of time spent

in the company of men, with no pressure to make small talk.

Passersby stop and have their photos taken in front of the shop.

“It looks like it’s from another era,” said Lahman. Customers are a mix of long-time loyalists, men who have read the glowing online recommendations or those who simply want to sample a classic barber shop shave. “The key to a successful shave is in the prep work,” said Lahman. “Many men have never had the full treatment and they come to experience all the elements of a great straight razor shave.” Paperbacks from the 1950s share space with Playboys from the 70s and a menu board spells out prices with the warning “NO CELL PHONES”. Still, while the feel is old-school, Sweeney Todd’s has definitely tapped into new technology to promote its presence. Online reviewers applaud Sweeney Todd’s manly approach and comment that in Los Angeles, “there exists a dichotomy whereby one is forced to choose between the lesser of two evils: metro-sexual inspired salon or generic mega chain. Sweeney Todd’s fills the niche ignored by both.”

The name for the shop comes from the old British tale of Sweeney Todd, the Demon Barber of Fleet Street. This original Sweeney Todd killed his customers with a too-close shave then dumped them down a trap door into the basement. There, they became the ingredients for the meat pies baked by Mrs. Lovett in her shop next door. This gruesome story has inspired a Broadway musical, a Hollywood movie, and the name of this barber shop.

This Sweeney Todd’s, however, is a safe retreat from the scary news on the street. With the insecurity of the economy, there is comfort in the timeless ritual of a shave and a haircut, always done right. BOM For information on Sweeney Todd’s, visit sweeneytoddsbarbershopla.com

Anne Moratto is the Director of Public Relations and Advertising at American International Industries (AII), one of the largest privately-held beauty companies in the world, located in Los Angeles, CA. AII brands include Woody’s Quality Grooming, Clubman-Pinaud, China Glaze Nail Lacquer and Ardell False Lashes. For more information, visit aiibeauty.com Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 37

Premier Barbers Barber Shop:

shopFOCUS

Old School Services with New School Attitude After Jeremy “JJ” Johnston graduated from high school, he enrolled in the military and thought that he was headed for a long career in uniform. It did last for six years, but then he was involved in a tragic car accident with a drunk driver, sending him back home to recuperate and re-evaluate his future. To this day he thanks God and the loving support of his family for his success in barbering. It all started by picking up a clippers in high school, then gaining skill and confidence on base, and finally professional training and licensure at the local barber college. In January 23, 2010 JJ hosted the grand opening celebration of his barber shop, Premier Barbers, a long-time goal that was finally realized. BOM chatted with JJ to see how he made his dream a reality.

Q: What events lead you to opening up your shop/why did you want to become a shop owner?

I accredit barbers Rex Howard and Anthony Bolden who I worked with to put on the Knox Vegas Hair Show in Knoxville, TN, for sparking my drive to open my own shop. While Anthony and I were attending school at the Knoxville Institute of Hair Design, we worked with Rex, who had been giving demonstrations at the school, to form the idea for the show. The Knoxville area did not have one up until that point, so we knew it needed one. We wanted to get the local shops involved, giving me the opportunity to meet other stylists and barbers and visit many different kinds of shops. I saw when I liked and a lot of what I didn’t like. This fueled my desire to open my own shop, so I used the show as a launching platform.

Q: What did you envision your shop would be like?

I knew I wanted it to have that old school feel with some of the traditional services, like straight razor shaves using hot towels with a relaxing neck massages, but I also wanted it to have a new school look. I felt like the barber shop as a man’s hangout was going out of style, being replaced by combining shops with salons. I wanted to recreate an era where shops were a place guys could come in and call their own, but make sure that everyone would feel comfortable, regardless of background, age, or ethnicity.

Q: What did you take into consideration when deciding where to put your shop?

I hunted for an area that didn’t have a competing barber shop, specifically one that could do all types of hair. I found out that many people were going out of town to find a shop. I decided to establish my business in Newport, TN which is almost an hour away from Knoxville, but within 20 minutes from three colleges and the exact location I found is close to a Walmart, which I liked because there was a lot of car and foot traffic, making my shop highly visible. I also thought of putting the local high school colors into my logo so

that they would be drawn to the shop and feel like it was for them. I was hoping to find a space that was already a barber shop, so I didn’t have to build from scratch, but I didn’t find one, so we had to put in everything from the ground up, including the hardwood floors.

Q: What do you look for when you hire other barbers?

When I interview barbers for a job, I look for the passion they put into the hair cut. I believe you can teach anyone to cut, but I want to know if the barber has the passion it takes to make each client feel like they are important.

I want someone who wants to do more then cut hair; I want someone who wants to give back to the community or work through lunch to take care of the waiting clients and not complain about it. I also want someone who is unique, someone who adds a dimension to my shop that doesn’t currently exist.

Q: How do you get involved in the community?

Since opening, we have had a summer kickoff event where we passed out free barbeque provided by a local church, had a bounce house for the kids, and did $5 cuts all day. We also had a prom night kickoff where I hired a local DJ and we cut all the high school kids that wanted a fresh cut for prom. Much of my involvement with the community is with the local high school. I even have a wall dedicated to their events so that every time a high school student comes in, he feels at home. I think the barber shop is one of the greatest resources a community can have to bring people together. For many, my shop is like a home away from home. Our motto is “It’s not just a hair cut.” I believe that with big dreams, teamwork, and much hard work, anything is possible. These are the lesson I want to teach the youth of my community. I strive to make my barber shop a vessel to make this happen.

Q: How do you advertise your business?

Besides word of mouth and visibility to street traffic, I advertise my business through my Web site and social networking profiles. Today’s market is run by promotion from the internet and if you don’t have a presence online you might as well not exist. I think it is important to do anything you can to get your business out there. I even post my cuts on Facebook where other barbers comment on them and ask questions.

Q: Do you have any other advice for barbers interested in opening a shop?

Opening a shop and then keeping it running is hard work. All I can say is do your homework and then work hard every day. Be patient because nothing comes easy or fast. I know in the beginning I had a few days where I second guessed myself, but if you do things right it will all work out. Treat people like you wanted to be treated and the sky is the limit. BOM

Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 39

Health

Razor Bumps: An Unnecessary Evil

By Will Williams

No matter their education, age, or socio-economic status, it’s a fact that most African American men have a problem with razor bumps. Why do so many of them settle for not having the smoothest skin? Why do brothers accept razor bumps as a necessary evil?

The truth of the matter is, if you are using a straight edge razor correctly, then there is no reason in the world that you should ever get razor bumps. It’s ironic that although African American men spend more time and attention on grooming and looking good than anyone else, they are the ones who suffer from razor bumps the most.

In today’s image conscious world, first impressions mean everything. You truly will never get a second chance to make a first impression.

It’s like having an Armani suite with some Chuck Taylors on. You wouldn’t do that. Why? Because just like shoes are part of the total package, so is your skin. And, it’s apparent that men are starting to understand that because they are spending now more than ever on male grooming, skin care, and hair products. In fact, men are spending more than $4 billion a year on such vanity products and services.

Razor bumps don’t just look bad, they feel even worse. They are painful, irritating, and they can itch, especially with anything like a tight collar, or anything else rubbing against them.

But, don’t just think of razor bumps on the face or on the neck, razor bumps can attack anywhere you shave. That means if you shave your back or if you are doing a bald head fade, or even sporting a completely bald head, then you need to make sure you are shaving the right way and taking the necessary preventative steps to keep those razor bumps at bay. So, when men ask me what they should do to avoid razor bumps, my answer is always the same:

• Prevent razor bumps before they start by using lots of warm water to soften and moisturize hair before shaving whether we’re talking about your head, your face, your neck or anywhere else on your body.

• Always lather hair to trap in moisture and lubricate the skin.

• To eliminate razor bumps, tweeze ingrown hairs in the direction of growth.

• Be sure to always shave in the direction of hair growth.

• Use an aftershave everywhere you shave, every time you shave Remember, at least seventeen value judgments are made in the first 11 seconds when you first meet someone. So, be sure to put your best face forward at all times and make the most of every impression, be it the first, second, or last. You should always be well coiffed, well groomed, and smooth. Be smooth from head to toe, especially your face. BOM Will Williams, director of education and new product development for M&M Products Co. is a 30-year veteran of the beauty and grooming industry. Williams is a Master Barber and Certified Master Cosmetologist. To learn how to map your face, techniques for shaving, and products to get you smooth and keep you that way, visit bumppatrol.com.

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Barbers Give Back

Community

The barbering community continued their tradition of giving back to the less fortunate in 2010. Barbers Only Magazine was fortunate enough to witness and participate in many master barbers, student barbers, and barber schools that were involved in several charity events where their tonsorial services were needed. One organization in Atlanta, 2nd Blessings Inc. combined to give hair care services to over 400 residents in homeless shelters during the Christmas Holidays as well as the week of Fathers Day. The special event was greatly appreciated by the residents of the Atlanta shelter and was a positive event for the over 30 barbers that were involved. In addition, another non-profit organization, which enlisted the help of several barbers, were a part of rapper T.I.’s “Toyz in the Hood� event during the Christmas holiday. The rap superstar gave back to his old neighborhood in the Bankhead section of Atlanta by providing toys for hundreds of kids. The positive event was witnessed by several hundred Atlanta residents as the cutting experts provided free haircuts for the anxious kids as well. BOM thinks it is very important to give back to the less fortunate and hope the barbering and cosmetology industry will continue to do their part to support their neighboring communities.

Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 43

iNDUSTRY iNFO

HBA Global Announces 2010 IP IPDA Winners HBA Global Expo announced thee winners of o its Annual International Package Design Awards (IPDA). As the longest longest running runn package design awards in the beauty industry more than 200 0 entries were w submitted by major brands, niche players and indie companies. comp panies. Among Am the winners in nine different categorie categories was the Personal Care Mass winner: Signature Collection Men by Bath & Body B Works. The bottles feature “sprayed glass with duo tone printed deco; matching spray can deco and body wash labels.” The T HBA IPDA Category Winners and Grand Gran Award were announced on September 2 28 during the HBA Global Expo & Conferenc Conference at the Javits Center in New York.

For more information on HBA Glob Global, visit hbaexpo.com.

Sony De Debuts Augmented Reality ‘Barbering’ Game for PS3 ‘Barber The latest lates PlayStation Move video game called Move M Party features quirky minigames fro from Supermassive games, including a fun ‘barbering’ style game. Known as “augmented reality” mini games, each uses the PlayStation Move controller as a handheld device, and players wave the controller around to have that object act like a real world tool. For example, in a barber mini-game, players use the PlayStation Move like a pair of clippers, cutting the hair off an on-screen head in a specific fashion. The top of the screen shows a haircut you’re aiming to achieve, and on the head itself the hair is highlighted to let you know which strands are the ones you should be shaving. If you get too close to the scalp with the razor, the Move vibrates indicating you made a mistake. The game was released in September.

Tool Create to Gauge Hair Thinning Divi International’s HairCheck device is the first measurement tool to gauge hair thinning, hair breakage, and hair regrowth. The patented HairCheck technology gives a precise scientific measurement of how much hair is present in an area of scalp, measuring both the hair density and hair diameter within that area. It is recommended as an add-on service for cosmetology professionals. This service will determine your clients’ degree of hair loss 10 to 15 years before it is visible to the naked eye. Hair breakage is also measured, which allows for product and service recommendations that aaddr address the damage. For more information visit HairCheck.com.

FFlorida Fl lo or Raid-style Barber Shop Inspections In November, No o the Orlando Sentinel newspaper reported that as many as 14 4 ar rm Orange County deputies, including narcotics agents, stormed at armed lea ast nine n least local barber shops during business hours in August, September, and d October O Oc handcuffing barbers in front of customers during a busy backto-ssch ho weekend. It was just one of a series of unprecedented raid-style to-school in nsp pe ons the Orange County Sheriff’s Office conducted with a state regulatinspecti ingg agency, targeting several predominantly black- and Hispanic-owned ba b barber shops in the Pine Hills area. Deputies arrested 37 people — the m majority charged with “barbering without a license,” a state misdem meanor. Orange County sheriff ’s Capt. Dave Ogden, who commands tth the area that includes Pine Hills, described the operations as a “minu us nuscule” part of a larger effort to snuff out crime in one of Central FFlo or Florida’s notorious hot spots. Other than licensing misdemeanors, arre estss were made for evidence of gambling, equipment “that appeared rests b u us to be used” to make pirated DVDs and CDs, “some sort of tax service,” two handgunss and misdemeanor amounts of marijuana. BOM handguns, 44 | barbersonlymagazine.com | Dec./Jan. 2011

Shop Talk

Respect the Profession: Get Your License!

Comments by Craig “mr. Taper” Logan of BOM

Recently, barber and cosmetology boards in several states have increased efforts to stop unlicensed barbers from working in shops. In states such as Illinois and Florida, barbers have been arrested for practicing barbering without a license. Many master barbers applaud the licensing boards. The overall feeling is, “I got my license, why don’t you get yours?” The mood among many of the unlicensed barbers is: 1. “I can cut just as good or better than a licensed barber”, 2. “Barber school is too long and expensive”, or 3. “I don’t want to have to go to a cosmetology school in order to get my barbers license.” As a licensed master barber for over 15 years, I must admit that the unlicensed barbers’ excuses are unacceptable. My opinion is, if you want to be part of the barbering community, do what you have to do in order to

...if you want to be part of the barbering community, do what you have to do in order to make it official. make it official. When I began cutting in a barber shop, I was unlicensed for a short period of time. I did not know if I wanted a career in barbering right away. However, I was thought that I must either enroll in barber school or find a master barber and become his apprentice. I chose to be an apprentice and learn the trade, completing my barber exam 18 months later. However, many states either do not have the barber apprentice program or only allow one apprentice per shop, as is the case in the state of Georgia. Fortunately, many barber schools offer financial assistance for those that need it, job placement upon completion of the program, and a opportunity to continue their education by transferring their credits to a four-year college. As the popularity of barber shops in communities increases, unlicensed barbers must increase their efforts to receive their barber license. I recently spoke to well known barber who is happily unlicensed. He said, “I’m doing all of this [cutting hair] without a license!” It disappointed me that he would feel this way about the profession; unknowingly disrespecting it. Unfortunately, many barbers feel this way. I would like to make a plea to my licensed barbers to reach out to their unlicensed colleagues (without malice) and point them in the right direction. More importantly, I want my unlicensed barbers to make an effort in 2011 to get their license and DO THE RIGHT THING! BOM

Show Calendar Three Months View

Western Buying Conference Jan. 13-14

IBS New York Mar. 6-8

Hotel BALLY’S Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV F: 201.489.8096 www.westernbuyingconference.com

Javits Center, Pier 92 & 94 New York City, NY 212.895.8200 www.ibsnewyork.com

Beauty Expo USA Jan. 17-18

America’s Beauty Show Mar. 12-14

Rio Hotel Las Vegas, NV 314.426.6333 www.beautyexpousa.com

McCormick Place Chicago, IL www.americasbeautyshow.com

Orlando Gift Show Jan. 22-24 Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL 678.285.3976 www.orlandogiftshow.com

ISSE-Long Beach Jan. 29-31 Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, CA 866.229.2386 www.probeauty.org/isselb

NY-IGF Jan. 29-Feb. 3 Javits Center, Pier 92 & 94 New York City, NY 800.272.7469 www.nyigf.com

Bronner Bros.

Feb. 19-22 World Congress Center Atlanta, GA 800.547.7469 www.bronnerbros.com

Spectrum Int’l Beauty Expo Mar. 21-22 Los Angeles Marriott Hotel Los Angeles, CA 310.680.7367 www.spectrumintlbeautyexpo.com

ISSE-Midwest Mar. 26-28 Donald E. Stephens Conv. Center Rosemont, IL 866.229.2386 www.probeauty.org/issemw

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Dec./Jan. 2011 | barbersonlymagazine.com | 47