FALL 2010 FURS AND FEATHERS
COME ALIVE
IN 3-D IN 3-D
DEAD-SEXY STYLES
from the DECADENT ‘60S YOU’VE GOT IT MADE! Custom garments in our neighborhood
THE MUMU RETURNS: THE STORY OF TWO CAL ALUMNAE’S SARTORIAL SUCCESS
CUT THE CLUTTER! HOW TO SURVIVE A MONTH WITH SIX ITEMS OF CLOTHING
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PHOTO SHOOT: TEXTURAL OVERLOAD Exotic materials make a bold statement in 3-D
TABLE OF CONTENTS 5 Letter from the Editor 20 PERSPECTIVE: A Few of My Favorite Things 6 REPORT: Indigenous Digs Put your closet on a diet with this fashion experiment BARE investigates the difference between ethnically inspired clothing and tasteless reappropriation
7 REVIEW:
A Super Resource for Skin Care A new cosmetic store for your beauty needs
Stick to your Gunns
Tim Gunn’s new book offers rules to live by from a fashion guru
Between the Seams
One College Avenue boutique shows us the ins and outs of made-tomeasure clothing
Miam, That’s Good Froyo
A Berkeley concept lounge puts an artistic twist in your frozen yogurt
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Wordpress Wondergirls Do fashion blogs show us the world through a rosy-colored lens?
22 ALUMNI FEATURE: The Mumu Returns
Two Cal alumnae create one garment with many possibilities
24 BEAUTY:
Don’t You Know That I’m Toxic? The harmful chemicals hiding in your beauty products
Wouldn’t You Lather?
Eco-friendly alternatives to dangerous cosmetics
Lighten Up
Exposing the pressures of artificial tanning and skin whitening firsthand
26 PHOTO SHOOT: MAD WOMEN
Patterned dresses and full skirts take us on a trip to the ‘60s
11 REPORT: Sizable Changes 32 SHOPPING GUIDE: Exploring the fashion industry’s shifting perceptions of body type 12 PHOTO SHOOT:
BASIC ELEMENTS Minimalism brings the most out of these winter looks.
19 PROF INTERVIEW: Namwali Serpell
BARE talks fashion and heritage with Professor Namwali Serpell
Go Fourth, Shoppers
Head to 4th Street for a day of food and fashion
BACK OF THE CLOSET 40 Stuff we couldn’t fit anywhere else! Flea Market Fun Times D.I.Y, D.I.Y, My Darling! A Convenient Truth About T-Shirts On Campus Status on the Spritz Encyclopedia Breton-ica BAREMAGAZINE.ORG
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STAFF
executive staff Editor-in-Chief Editorial Directors Creative Directors Art Director Art Assistant Events Directors Public Relations Director Business Director Blog Editor Photo Editor Website Manager
staff James An Kelsey Bucsko Stephanie Chang Tina Chen Christine Cho Michelle Cho Daniella Ciappara Christine Deakers Sanders Deionne Julie Dinh Gabrielle Elias Samantha Giordano Stephanie Gong Abigail Hibbs Scott Hovdey Tiara Johnson Julia Joung Shreyaa Khemka Dooee Kim Marte Krogstad Jihae Lee Veronica Lee Stacey McEntire Amaris Montes
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Alexandra Myers Melissa Ou Lisa Park Youri Park Polina Polishchuk Ethan Prizant Madeline Ruley Stacey Rutherford Tanya Sanderson Sonia Savalia Salome Shah Carrie Shapiro Aimee Shimizu Jason Siu Erica Smolin Hanna Temkin Alexandra Thurmond Aishya Tolani Tom Tran Deanna Wagner Delisha Yang Suzy Yu Tenny Zheng Diane Zhou
John Kim Ryan Lattanzio, Nastia Voynovskaya Justine Carreon, Ria Meer T.T. Tu Carolyn Yoo Miraya Berke, Lyka Sethi Paul Morales Jeehye Park Brittany Curran Elena Radicati Allen Tan
contributors Simone Anne Lang Nican Robinson Stephen Sun Ericka Veliz Talun Xi
advisor Jan Crowder
contact http://baremagazine.org http://blog.baremagazine.org http://www.facebook.com/baremagazine info@baremagazine.org
follow @baremagazine
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
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xamining the past decade in my head brings me to one word: technology. We’ve grown up during the emergence of light-speed Internet connections, 24-hour television channels, thumb-sized MP3 players, compact laptops and ubiquitous cell phones. The slightest disconnect from the virtual world leaves us in despair. Some would see this as a cultural problem, but they’re usually the ones looking in from the outside. At the core, we’re all just a bunch of enthusiasts, itching to share our obsession of the moment. It is, after all, the way we grew up and how we learned to express ourselves — through an analog world. Fashion, believe it or not, is at the forefront of the latest technological advances. Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week at the extraordinary Lincoln Center used the iPad to subdue the chaos when it came to seating guests at shows. Countless shuffles of seating charts were streamlined into one pristine 7.5-by-10-inch stainless steal beauty. Shows halfway across the globe were available for live viewing, giving unprecedented access to anyone with a laptop and a decent Internet connection. In a way, the Internet is truly the democratic medium we’ve been looking for, where access to anything and everything is endless. And here I add a plug to stress the importance of preserving net neutrality, to keep the World Wide Web the equalizing media platform we’ve been perfecting since the last century. So naturally, this issue matured with an emphasis on technology. The staff was excited to intertwine the latest fads with the magazine’s production. Our 3-D cover was a response to the wave of movie-goers craving to see film from a new perspective. And after seven issues, we wanted to show a new side of our magazine, too. Recently, our follower count on Twitter exceeded 1,000 — a big feat for any student organization. We introduce our collaboration with humanitarian social site Kyndy to present the BARE iPhone application, where readers from around the world can thumb through the same things we’re reading in the East Bay. The application is free, with the sole purpose of flaunting the efforts of the talented and fashionable at Cal. Lastly, we’re introducing an interactive shopping experience for our readers. Throughout the magazine, you’ll find bar codes on clothes and on articles to give you an interactive experience with our magazine. Most smartphones can scan these codes on camera mode (with the QR app for iPhone and BlackBerry Messenger for BlackBerry), and each bar code will redirect you to related websites that our editors recommend. Think of it as a way of us whispering
secret tips in your ear. I genuinely believe that this is the future of media. The Internet is providing us with ways to bridge the once existent gap between the reader and the editor, the printed page and the virtual one, resulting in healthy dialogues that enrich the public’s collective knowledge. But keeping up with all this technology hasn’t made us lose focus of delivering accessible and relevant fashion to the UC Berkeley campus. Amid all this mayhem, our foundation of intellectual stories and engaging photos still stands firm. Staff writer Elena Radicati explores the nuances of when culturallycharged references in fashion can become culturally insensitive (Page 6). I think we agree that in an era where fast fashion reigns, our wardrobes have accumulated too much. A socially conscious group known as the “sixers” join a revolution to condense their closets’ clutter, and reporter Deanna Wagner joins the clan firsthand to investigate for herself (Page 20). We also paid homage to the 1960s — the decade where the masses moved to suburbs and started collecting appliances — in our “Mad Women” photo shoot (Page 26), a nod to the revolution of domestic technology. It all comes full circle. On behalf of myself and the rest of the BARE staff, enjoy this issue. I hope it encourages you to stay connected. Sincerely,
John Kim john@baremagazine.org
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REPORT
INDIGENOUS
DIGS
Where do we draw the line between ethics and aesthetics when it comes to culturally-inspired clothing?
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“Fashion is able to sell customers a safe and tame vision of the ‘other,’ using the exotic fantasies of other cultures to create a small ‘frisson (a thrill or quiver)’ without ever having to leave your own world.”
ubiquitous “tribal” print) to specific items like saris and obi belts. While it can be easy to see when such “orientalism” (as one Style.com writer characterized Louis Vuitton’s spring 2011 collection) and “vaguely tribal” (this time at Gucci) looks cross the line into just plain bad taste, it’s a little harder to realize the full extent to which fashion has appropriated from other cultures. The keffiyeh may be a particularly surprising political example, but what about the more standard pieces that frequently appear on our catwalks and in our wardrobes? According to one article in 2002’s Feminist Review by Nirmal Puwar, the appearance of South Asian garments in Western fashion is “able to provoke an emotion beyond ambivalence – rage.” Fashion is able to sell customers a safe and tame vision of the “other”, using the exotic fantasies of other cultures to create a small “frisson (a thrill or quiver)”, according to Puwar, without ever having to leave your own world. Such appreciation of other cultures’ traditional clothing often comes as a slap in the face of that culture -- through ignorance of the histories behind specific items and the society in general -- especially in areas like South Asia, where traditional
garments were once degraded by imperialism. Yet fashion has always appropriated different worlds to create new ones – and not necessarily in a negative or offensive way. Designers like Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent borrowed and redesigned menswear items for some of their most daring and revolutionary collections, leading to more options and freedoms for women. While people may be right to criticize the widespread wear of such politically-charged garb, there are times when this cry for correctness goes entirely too far – as when Dunkin’ Donuts had to pull an ad with Rachael Ray because her paisley scarf looked too much like a keffiyeh. Globally-inspired fashion may be nearly impossible to avoid in today’s fashion world, but it can’t hurt consumers to watch what they wear – if you’re going to don a keffiyeh, you’d better have the political leanings to support it, for example. How people dress and think about their appearance is no small indication of how they feel, so it wouldn’t hurt everyone to take a little more time thinking about what they wear and what it really means, regardless of whether it’s trendy.
- Elena Radicati
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ILLUSTRATION COURTESY OF DIANE ZHOU
ou may not know what a keffiyeh stands for, or even what that word means, but chances are you’ve passed a classmate wearing one. That Urban Outfitters aficionado may be surprised to find out, however, that his or her favorite black and white checked scarf is actually a symbol of Pa l e s t i n i a n nationalism. If nowhere else, we’ve definitely all seen this “accessory” atop the head of politician [“former Palestinian leader”?] Yasser Arafat. Sadly, this isn’t the only fashion item with such a dubitable history. Not even close. Designers have always taken inspiration from worldwide fashions, ranging from fabric and pattern choices (just think of the
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PHOTO COURTESY OF S&S GALLERY PUBLICITY, ERICKA VELIZ
stick to your Gunns Tim Gunn Teachs Readers “Life’s Little Lessons”
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ne can never be sure what will always be in style. Some believe it’s the LBD, but Tim Gunn (the fashion guru of “Project Runway”) knows that permanent style staples aren’t just garments in your wardrobe. Etiquette transcends pattern or material because it goes with any ensemble. In his new book “Gunn’s Golden Rules: Life’s Little Lessons For Making it Work,” Gunn delivers sage advice in his charming prose. “I like to talk only about the way things are, not the way they should be in an ideal world,” Gunn writes with a dose of his usual bluntness. “Manners help us deal with the place we find ourselves in, whatever that is.” There’s never a dearth of witticisms within Gunn’s rules and playful anecdotes. In one segment, Gunn recounts an especially get-out-of-town moment at fashion week, where he reveals the not-so-glamorous side of Anna Wintour. Gunn shows the importance of taking the high road — and mailing a handwritten letter to settle any professional blunder. Another memorable tip is “Rule
12: Don’t Lose Your Sense of Smell.” Gunn believes that sometime in our lives, we are all victim to “living in the monkey house,” a place that smells so bad that after a while, we don’t even notice the smell anymore. This analogy also works for remedying certain fashion faux pas, avoiding bad decisions like Crocs or Uggs or making a judgment call on someone’s character. Gunn tells us to follow our nose — better known as our common sense. However, Tim doesn’t just list off what to do and what not to do in a social or fashion crisis. Instead, he teaches through his own example. Bearing it all, he doesn’t leave out his less-than-fabulous experiences. On his first day teaching at Parsons, he was so nervous he had to pull his car over and throw up. Humbling moments like these make his triumphant moments all the more compelling. With an FBI agent father, the not-so-macho Gunn didn’t have it easy in his upbringing. Still, we come to see how the pitfalls along Gunn’s tumultuous path — or perhaps runway in his case — are exactly what have made him one of fashion’s favorite personalities. He demonstrates that success is no accident.
a super resource for skin care
an your skin win in the fight against the Bay Area breeze? If it needs some help, don’t fret. There’s a new hero in town, and its name is Super. Located off 4th Street and Hearst, Super is a newly opened facial product store that specializes in catering to young adults with a variety of skin types. Named after “super-fruits” (such as apples and coconuts) that are known for their benefit in health, the store sells products with fresh ingredients that are just as good for your skin as they are for your health. Say goodbye to the synthetic smell that comes with most beauty products because the lotions and creams at Super are almost completely natural and smell extraordinarily delicious and fruity. Super is also great for treating bad days. They offer “Super quickies,” facials professionally done by the aesthetician on duty that take no longer than 30 minutes. Even if you decide to pass on the facial, the customer service alone is bound to send you home with a smile. Although there are only a few workers, they quickly devote their full attention to you without being overbearing. Super’s personable staff is a necessity in deciding which of their products would be best for your skin. Because of their extensive knowledge about different skin types (such as dry or acne prone skin), you can trust the staff to help you choose the right combination of their lotions and cleansers to meet your needs. The price of their products is much steeper than that of the average convenience store, but when your skin feels healthier and cleaner than before, the investment is definitely worth it. With more products being added to their current selection and a partnership with the makeup company Sephora, Super is bound to quickly soar into the sky. For more information, check out their website at www.GetSuper.com, or visit the store for free samples or a complimentary facial. - Youri Park
- Christine Deakers
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REVIEw
When you buy something here, you can know it’s going to last forever.
SHOP
One BARE staffer invests in a custommade garment built to last a lifetime
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PHOTO COURTESY OF ELENA RADICATI
between the seams
Review
PHOTO COURTESY OF ELENA RADICATI; KENEUOE VIVERE
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alking into the Keneuoe Vivere store on College Avenue, the first things that struck me were the windows. Or rather, what was in them — paper, muslin, fabric and measuring tape spilling over and around dress forms, suggesting just a hint of the creative process going on within. “You can’t take making clothes too seriously,” head designer and owner Keneuoe Vivere says. “But there’s still a lot of work that goes into it.” Inside, one can see some of that serious work in action. Vivere may produce only around 12 designs each season, but it’s the process behind them that makes this boutique an exceptional shopping experience: Along with the ready-to-wear garments, any piece can be altered or custom-designed to fit your body and tastes exactly. “The concept was that I’ll be the designer and come up with ideas for the client,” Vivere says. “Really my main idea was for people of all shapes and sizes to come into the store.” Such attention to detail is hardly new (it’s what fashion was built on from the earliest days of seamstresses and tailors) but it’s also completely absent from the modern fashion world and its ready-to-wear, fewsizes-fit-most attitude. “Everyone has different bodies, you realize no one is symmetrical,” Vivere says. “Plus, people really love being part of the creative process, they get very attached.” Upon meeting the designer in person to collaborate on my own garment, I saw what she meant. When I mentioned which dress I’d had my eye on (a simple t-shirt style with a sheer golden overlay), Vivere just smiled and looked at my own dress: “I thought you’d like that one.” As I was getting my measurements taken, I couldn’t help thinking about the final product – the idea that it wouldn’t be too long, too big or hang awkwardly was almost too good to be true. Keneuoe Vivere opened in November of 2009, growing naturally out of Vivere’s studio in Emeryville,
where she mostly made clothes for friends. All clothing is made in Berkeley, with only the fabric (not the labor) coming from abroad. Such quality and craftsmanship doesn’t come cheap, however, a fact even Vivere admits. Depending on the fabric (the store keeps their main fabrics on hand for customers to look through), garments can range anywhere from a hundred dollars to five hundred or so, making the store more ideal for the exceptional, standout pieces rather than your dayto-day wardrobe. Of course, the process of getting your garment involves more than just handing over your credit card. Vivere and her team usually meet with clients first to talk (“You can tell so much about a person just by their body language, and what they’re wearing, you know,” she says) and take measurements before creating a muslin sample about a week later. This sample is then adjusted and reworked, and finally, after a few weeks or so, the final piece is ready for wear. Even going through the muslin fitting was an interesting experience – as Vivere trimmed and marked (the shoulders were a little tight, the hem a little long), she even explained what she was doing. As much “Project Runway” as I’ve watched, it was fascinating to hear and see exactly how clothes come together to fit perfectly. “The most important question for me is ‘Is it comfortable?’” Vivere says. “Clothes you can’t wait to get out of – I really hate that.” With the careful design and even more careful alterations, I had no doubts about this dress becoming a comfortable and classic staple in my wardrobe. And I was right: just a few weeks later, the finished dress was in my hands and as I tried it on one last time at the store, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of pride at owning a garment made just for me. The dress has fast become one of my favorite pieces, and not just for this season, but for years to come as well. “We’re not really trendy,” Kenuoue says of her designs. “The pieces are all influenced by what’s in season, of course, but when you buy something here you can know it’s going to last forever.”
- Elena Radicati BAREMAGAZINE.ORG
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perspective
Wordpress Wondergirls How bloggers blur the line between fact and fiction...
T EAT
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ith a French name that means “yum yum,” Miam.Miam Lounge on College Avenue makes a promise that its frozen yogurt and gelato most certainly fulfill. Originally created to showcase designer mugs and other household items, Miam.Miam has an artisan’s touch when it comes to crafting products with all-natural, local ingredients. The yogurt is made from live cultures rather than a powder base. The taste is evident in yogurt such as pumpkin and peanut butter, enriched by the incorporation of the flavor’s actual namesake. The gelato also comes from a local supplier and is created using the same methods found in any holein-the-wall gelato shop on the streets of Italy. A self-proclaimed “concept store,” Miam.Miam offers four possible sizes, each to be packed with as much as you like from their tantalizing toppings bar. The lounge also features the Bay Area’s famous Blue Bottle Coffee as well as variegated, delightfully geometric interior design. Both art exhibit and fro-yo and gelato lounge, Miam.Miam is a dream space ready to satisfy dessert connoisseurs and neophytes alike. - Salome Shah
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image created by these “real people” on the web. Unlike magazines such as Vogue and Nylon, fashion blogs were initially hailed as an accessible, egalitarian force in the style world. Lately, however, the most well-known personal blogs depict the lives of people with what seem to be limitless disposable incomes. Their posh apartments with closets bursting with designer clothes seem like mere layovers in an endless series of world travels, all documented with photos on their blogs, of course. If this is the newly democratized face of fashion publications, something is wrong with this picture — literally. Some popular bloggers guilty of painting this deceptive picture have thousands of followers. Karla Deras, the 21-year-old blogger of Karla’s Closet (www.karlascloset. blogspot.com), boasted a new pair of Miu Mius a week after buying an Alaia. Seventeen-year-old Jane Aldridge from Sea of Shoes (www. seaofshoes.typepad.com) can be seen prancing around Paris or at her debutante ball, while at home she sports an excessive shoe collection
equipped with Chanel, Fendi and Balenciaga, among others. Meanwhile, Raez from Cheap Thrills (www.cheapthrillsss.com) catalogs her thrift store finds but still manages to spend more money on clothes than most 17-year-olds can afford. In blogs, fashionistas with a modest budget and less commercial taste can seek solace from the elite world of Vogue. But what happens when this virtual utopia isn’t an accepting environment? It’s discouraging when the most prominent bloggers are the ones with the most means because, then, the rest of us are made to feel as if we can’t break through. Ads in print publications may skew body image, but fashion blogs skew life image. Blog readers might feel their self-esteem deflate when they realize they can’t take vacations every weekend or put their Jeffrey Campbell-adorned feet on their Mercedes dashboard. Fashion blogs need to start demonstrating that you needn’t be rich to be stylish. Fashion blogging is something anyone can do — and creativity, rather than money, is the only prerequisite. - Polina Polishchuk
PHOTO COURTESY OF JASON SIU, KARLA DERAS (www.karlascloset.com), JANE ALDRIDGE (www.seaofshoes.com), AND RAEZ (www.cheapthrillsss.com)
MIAM, THAT’S GOOD FROYO!
here is no oasis of homegrown style deeper than the blogosphere. Hailing from cities around the world, stylish bloggers present their lives as a series of picturesque vignettes channeling a romanticized past. They pose casually in front of the Louvre, bask in sun-soaked meadows — and always seem to be surrounded by beautiful friends drinking beautiful cocktails. Obscured by all this glamour and stunning scenery, bloggers like to portray such scenes as reality. Anyone with a camera and an Internet connection can make his or her life seem fabulous from the shelter of a web browser. Looks can be uploaded instantaneously. The newfound grassroots sensibility among fashion writing and photography has allowed bloggers to upstage traditional fashion publications. For the average fashion enthusiast or casual voyeur, it’s easy to spend hours perusing these sites: The alluring pictures send readers yearning for more clothes and more adventures. But perhaps there are deeper implications stemming from a distorted
PHOTO COURTESY OF ELLE QUEBEC
Report
SIZABLE CHANGES The fashion industry ushers full-figured models onto the runway
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lus-size? Don’t hide your curves — flaunt and embrace them! Because of prominent plus-size models such as Lizzie Miller and Crystal Renn, full-figured women are making their presence in the fashion world known. With the suicides and anorexia-related deaths of models in recent memory, it is no wonder that editors and casting agents have been choosing larger, healthier women for editorial prints, television commercials and lingerie catalogues this season. The public’s perception of beauty is getting a much-needed reality check. Although plus-size models have traditionally been excluded from the limelight of the fashion industry, it seems like these “nontraditional” models are here to stay. After all, major fashion houses like Louis Vuitton and Prada turned heads with their most recent fall collections when they cast curvy girls like Elle Macpherson and Lara Stone for their runways. The debut of OneStopPlus.com’s plus-size only fashion show coinciding with the fall 2010 New York Fashion Week certainly attests to this phenomenon. Recent events — such as underweight models like Ana Carolina Reston and Luisel Ramos walking to their deaths on the runways because of desperate attempts to remain impossibly thin — have caused the
fashion industry to reevaluate its standards of beauty. As plus-size models gain popularity, magazine editors have developed strategic methods to ease the transition from the traditional Twiggy-like thinness of the fashion industry to a more unconventional, fullbosomed look. Crystal Renn’s photo shoot by Terry Richardson for October’s French Vogue — where the model stuffs her face with spaghetti, seemingly swallows a squid whole and devours a chunk of meat — conveys a rather confusing message. With the stereotype of thin models starving themselves or participating in diets that lead to severe malnutrition, possibly even death, showing a plus-size model gorging herself with carbohydrates demonstrates that larger women are still depicted as more of an exotic novelty rather than the norm. Despite Crystal Renn’s “it girl” status at the moment, full-figured women continue to be marginalized in a world where stick-thin dominates. Often times, fashion editors will grace celebrities like Megan Fox with a fullbody shot for a magazine cover when stars like Gabourey Sidibe (of “Precious” fame) may not be so fortunate. By showing full-figured women from just the chest up, fashion editors may think that this will help to hide some of
what they believe are unflattering body issues. But by cropping the pictures from the chest up, rather than the standard three-quarters of the woman’s body, these magazines draw attention to their uneasiness towards unconventional body types. The media uses subtle methods in an attempt to incorporate these curvy women without truly embracing their appearances. Featured in the now-famous “One Size Fits All” editorial in V Magazine, Crystal Renn was photographed next to a traditionally svelte model, Jacquelyn Jablonski, posing in identical ensembles. The shoot highlighted the obvious differences between the traditional and nontraditional model. The challenge of finding the most flattering clothes for these models while preserving the aesthetics of the final photo is what makes a stylist shrewd and fashion an art. This revolutionary change in aesthetics is not about plus-size dominance — it is about accepting the diverse forms of the human body. In the January 2010 issue of V Magazine, Crystal Renn addressed this issue: “I’d like to see everyone take on the attitude that there are women of all different shapes and sizes as ‘the beauty ideal,’ and that it’s not one type or another.”
- Tina Chen
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BASIC ELEMENTS Head Stylist: Alexandra Thurmond Production Team: Justine Carreon, Dooee Kim, Veronica Lee, Youri Park Models: Katherine Gray, Margarette Jung Photographer: Nican Robinson
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SHEER OPULENCE On Margarette: Knit Maxi Dress ($156), LF San Francisco; On Katherine: Long sleeve one shoulder dress ($245), Lia Kes.
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PROTECTION OF NEUTRALITY 14
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On Margarette: Cape, stylist’s own. On Katherine: Leather dress, White pants, Shoes, stylist’s own.
OPEN TO POSSIBILITIES Veda black coat with leather sleeves ($615), Acrimony.
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OPPOSITES ATTRACT Black velvet shirt, stylist’s own; Asymmetric pencil skirt ($198), Lia Kes.
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DARKNESS FALLS On Margarette: Kai-aakmann sleeveless vest ($165), Acrimony; Leggings ($46), American Apparel; Cutout wedges, stylist’s own. On Katherine: Leather long sleeve dress ($309), Lia Kes; Gunmetal pumps ($26), Sway.
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professor interview
Wearing Your Art on Your Sleeve An interview with Professor Namwali Serpell
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veryday, sights surprise us, intrigue us, challenge us and sometimes, comfort us. For Professor Namwali Serpell, the sights on the lively chitenge print cloth serve a dual purpose. Chitenge cloth is created through the batik dyeing technique and the final product is a waxy cotton fabric with prints that have various colors, patterns or slogans. The bright geometric print inspires a unique fashion sense that captivates colleagues and students, but also serves to create an amalgamation of Serpell’s Zambian heritage and American lifestyle.
cause most people don’t wear them as Western style dresses. It is neither a normal combination there nor is it a normal combination here. There were some fashion designers in New York, three or four years ago, selling the same concept, though. And I have a family friend from Zambia who is doing the same thing with her Facebook company, Kutowa. I think the idea of having African prints in Western style clothing is becoming more common in both places. What is important for you to exude with your fashion choices? I have a couple of friends who bought style books to figure out their style, and I felt an unusually deep resistance to doing that. I realized that I like to have the flexibility to wear my favorite things without thinking too much about it. And I like to change up what I wear without adhering to fashion trends, without even sticking to what I consider fashionable.
Professor Namwali Serpell: When I was in high school, I bought a dress, a flowered pattern that is actually really popular right now. And my sister and I had bought a pair of Doc Martens in London before anyone had heard of them. I remember the day I wore the Doc Martens with the dress. That was the first time I had worn something that no one in my school was wearing. I remember just feeling very free, and really loving the attention. I was wearing something different, and it was intentional, not a fashion mistake. I have owned some of the dresses I wear to teach at Berkeley since high school. They all have bright colors, patterns, and geometric shapes. It might come from an aesthetic preference for the colors and shapes in Zambian art. Being a Zambian citizen and a Zambian writer, is there a certain level of comfort you associate with wearing chitenge print? I feel comfortable wearing it both here and in Zambia. But the dresses I wear are unique in Lusaka, too, be-
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Does having a unique sense of fashion make people more aware of your heritage?
That was the first time I had worn something that no one in my school was wearing. I remember just feeling very free.
I think one thing they might become aware of is a sense of aesthetic pleasure and innovation. For example, I have a chitenge skirt, one of my favorites, that has the ‘@’ sign all over it in this huge print. I think when people see it and realize what it is, they might recognize something about African countries they might not know, which is the degree to which there is an absorption of modern and contemporary technology into local art and culture. There is a idea that these patterns are somehow old school or bright “primitive” colors, but they are actually cutting edge. - Salome Shah
PHOTO COURTESY OF PROFESSOR NAMWALI SERPELL
BARE: What was one memorable fashion statement that has sculpted your style as of late?
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PERSPECTIVE
A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS How to get away with wearing only six items of clothing.
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asymmetrically shaped designs. I figured I would just mix and match neutral colors and add colorful accessories here and there, just to make it seem as if I was wearing a different outfit every day. My carefully chosen clothing items were as follows: a green military cargo jacket, a light gray zippered sweatshirt, a black Coldplay t-shirt, a dark gray long-sleeve top and black and blue skinny jeans. It may seem plain at first, but as you will see, I worked my magic by mixing it up on the accessories and shoes. However this didn’t necessarily start out smoothly. On day one, I immediately felt constricted, overwhelmed and even a little depressed. I thought, how am I only going to wear two tops? Won’t people notice? Will they think I can only afford so much or that I don’t care to change my clothes? I then realized that I think way too much about what other people think, when they probably wouldn’t take a second glance. My other positive thought that morning was how easy it was getting ready. Hello to sleeping in longer! As the days went by, I found myself paying more attention to other people’s outfits of choice. Along my walking route to campus, I looked to see how other people got dressed that morning. I thought more critically about their thought process in putting together the ensemble, how difficult it really is to pick a winning combination. I saw epic outfits, as well as epic fails. When it comes down to it, I usually dress
myself according to mood and weather. Because those two variables tend to change often, I felt my outfits couldn’t always keep up during the experiment, as I had to follow this strict order. However, I do see where the movement is coming from. The originators had goals to curb consumerism, increase efficiency and urge people to focus less on outer appearances. And indeed, after the two weeks, my wallet was fatter, my morning routine was faster and my laundry pile was smaller. So this experiment did do me some good, though I have to admit, I could not live like this any longer than the allotted time. I give props to the men (yes men participate too) and women who can follow through with this strategic discipline. However, I felt like my creativity was stunted. I am the type to show my uniqueness through clothes, not so much accessories. I was initially excited to try this out but it was definitely not for me. Though this experiment did teach me to shop in my closet, I feel the limit of six pieces was just too extreme. Despite the difficulties, I challenge all readers to take part in this eye-opening movement. Instead of just shopping on a whim to satisfy a current trend or to just have something new to wear, remember to take a look at what you already have. As Tim Gunn famously says, “Make it work.” Most importantly, make careful purchases, keep an open mind and have fun. What will your six be? - Deanna Wagner
“After the two weeks, my wallet was fatter, my morning routine was faster and my laundry pile was smaller.”
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PHOTO COURTESY OF SIMONE ANNE LANG (www.simoneanne.com)
ver look into your closet full of clothes and think you have nothing to wear? I’ve been there too, my friend, countless times. I’ve always felt like a slave to fashion. As soon as it gets cold enough to wear my fall clothes, the spring Fashion Week is already in full swing. It seems like new collections come out every week. Store fronts change, clothes are restocked. Is it just me, or is there a one-time blowout sale that you just can’t miss going on every weekend? Yes, I feel the urge to go, too. But this time, instead of buying more mass produced clothes to add to my already jam-packed closet, I participated in an experiment started by a group of people known as the “Sixers.” The New York Times highlighted the shopping diet based off their website, Six Items Or Less. For a month, participants could only wear six items of clothing (not counting shoes, underwear and accessories). I decided to try it out for two weeks, just to see what the fuss was about Now I know what you’re thinking, is this possible? Am I really willing to show my face on campus wearing the same clothes? You bet I was. I’m a UC Berkeley student and I am not afraid of a challenge. I purposefully chose pieces that were not particularly memorable, trendy or colorful, that way it wouldn’t seem as though I was wearing the same clothes every couple days. I avoided noticeable styles like frills, lace, floral, plaid, graphics or
perspective
EARTH TONES: My favorite green military jacket and black tshirt pairs well with black skinny jeans and my brown boots.
SHE’S A RAINBOW: A pop of tie-dye here contrasts with otherwise neutral grays, blues, and browns in my outfit’s color palette.
BOHO HINT: My casual look allows my magenta scarf from Paris to shine. You can’t go wrong tucking skinny jeans into high-tops!
LAYER LOVE: I wore my long-sleeve gray top underneath a t-shirt while adding a scarf in my favorite color, blue.
COMFY COZY: I’m digging the chunky scarf look this season. Here, a well-wrapped accessory adds interest and texture to my outfit.
PHOTO COURTESY OF SIMONE ANNE LANG (www.simoneanne.com)
BLACK IS BACK: I kept this outfit simple with my favorite band tshirt, comfy black skinny jeans, and braided sandals.
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perspective
The Mumu Returns Two Cal alumnae create one garment with many possibilities
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PHOTO COURTESY OF SHOW ME YOUR MUMU
t was destiny that brought the power duo together to Yogurt Park after a long night of partying. Cologne Schmidt, interdisciplinary studies major, and Cammy Hebert, film studies major, started their own line of cheeky print tops called Show Me Your Mumu shortly after graduating from Cal in 2008. With big aspirations of becoming big-time designers, the alumnae headed to New York to work in the notoriously rigorous fashion industry. But it was on an impromptu trip to Miami in 2009 that the idea of the mumu was born. The hot Florida weather was a breath of fresh air for the New Yorkers, but all they could talk about on the trip was an easy wardrobe that could work for both destinations. They obsessed over a tunic that fit their East Coast lifestyle, and deliberated over just about everything — from the fabrics to the fit to the function. As they tirelessly chatted over lobster that same evening, a friend said to them, “Show me your mumu!” It was done. Upon their return to the City, the duo worked diligently to get their brand off the ground. They created a checklist for the perfect garment that occupied their minds during the trip: adaptable, comfortable and on-trend. Every girl, they fantasized, would want an eye-catching alternative to the usual sweats and hoodies. Truly versatile clothes fit for flexible lifestyles. But this ideal garb would require a lot of work. The duo met with fabric experts to develop their own poly-chiffon cloth that was light, sexy and felt better than silk. Sizes are almost ambiguous, thanks to a loose silhouette and adjustable bands. Careful choice of exotic peacock prints and neutral solids make their pieces ideal for mom and daughter, businesswoman and party-goer. Their garments are made in New York City Garment District to support American labor. “[The mumus are] 48-hour clothes — they’re versatile. You can wear them going out, to exercise, sleep in them,” describes Cologne as she sits cross-legged in an oversized mumu of her own. It’s no wonder their year-old mumu enterprise can hardly keep up with its growing demand. “Every time we put the mumus up online, they would be sold out in a week. It was crazy!” Cammy says of the feedback she has received. For the spring, Show Me Your Mumu is introducing complements to their mumus. Separates all work into the easy, Bohemian lifestyle the designers have embraced. Recently, Cammy and Cologne moved back to Southern California to establish the famed (and fitting) Abbot Kinney as their headquarters. It’s a no-brainer to connect the carefree energy of the boardwalk with the mumu’s free-flowing feel. For the bad rep that Berkeley gets for being less-than-fashionable, thesegirls definitely go against the stereotype. Cammy and Cologne are relaxed yet polished, much like the clothes that hang behind them in their downtown Los Angeles showroom. The designers have certainly earned their place among the power duos that have graduated from the study halls of Cal to the forefronts of fashion.
-John Kim Preview the Spring 2011 Show Me Your Mumu Collection!
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PHOTO COURTESY OF SIMONE ANNE LANG (www.simoneanne.com), MODEL: KELSEY WESTPHAL
perspective
“[THE MUMUS ARE] 48-HOUR CLOTHES — THEY’RE VERSATILE. YOU CAN WEAR THEM GOING OUT, TO EXERCISE, SLEEP IN THEM.” BAREMAGAZINE.ORG
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beauty
“Don’t You Know That I’m Toxic? ” What hair care and cosmetic companies don’t want you to know
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hat is the price you pay for beauty? If you’re trying to remember how much you just spent at Sephora, think again, because recent public health studies have shown that chemicals in common makeup products could actually cost consumers their health. Whether it’s foundation, lipstick, nail polish or shampoo, a long list of beauty products have come under scrutiny by environmental health experts. Chemicals commonly found in these products may lead to skin irritation, hormone disruption and even liver damage. But don’t banish your makeup yet— BARE offers tips about which chemicals to watch out for to guide your beauty product purchasing decisions.
Sodium lauryl sulfate is usually the first ingredient listed on many shampoo bottles. It is an inexpensive chemical which lathers up richly. However, it has also been shown to penetrate skin and eye tissues, where it can cause irritation, rashes, hair loss, dandruff-like scalp scruff and allergic reactions. Even worse, it forms nitrates, which are possible carcinogenic, if absorbed into the bloodstream. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), a plasticizing ingredient used to increase flexibility in nail polishes, as well as formaldehyde and toluene, chemicals also found in many nail polishes, have all been linked to cancer and birth defects upon absorption through the nail bed into the bloodstream. NARS, Chanel and China Glaze are pricier nail polish brands, but they do
- Tenny Zhang
Safe and effective eco-conscious beauty products
Weleda Almond Moisture Cream ($23, 1 oz.) Weleda is a fair trade beauty product company known globally for its innovative use of natural extracts and bio-dynamic farming methods. Almond Moisture Cream is one of Weleda’s top sellers. Nourishing and soothing, this moisturizer is a light and fragrance-free cream that quenches your skin’s thirst without irritation. Its main ingredients are water and sweet almond oil, which form a moisture barrier with natural essential fatty acids. This cream is perfect for use in the winter when cold, dry air can make skin more sensitive and prone to cracking. Burt’s Bees Super Shiny Grapefruit and Sugar Beet Shampoo ($8, 12 fl. oz.) This sulfate-free shampoo is over 98% natural and smells great! Grapefruit oil is cleansing and clearing, and it tones the skin of the scalp, too. Coconut and sunflower oils are gentle ingredients that create a rich lather without the harsh stripping and drying effects of sodium lauryl sulfate. Sugar beet extract and soy protein penetrate hair follicles to repair and strengthen hair. Honey and essential natural oils from orange, lemon, lime and tangerine give your hair a natural shine and add to the shampoo’s refreshing natural fragrance. Tarte Natural Beauty Cheek Stain ($30, 1 oz.) Tarte’s cheek stain gives cheeks a sheer berry color that looks fresh and natural. The product contains pigments derived from fruit and minerals. It is formulated without parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances, dyes and phthalates. Natural Beauty Cheek Stain is made with acai extract, a fruit known for its antioxidant properties that soften and sooth the skin. Pomegranate and acerola berry extracts add a punch of vitamin C, which helps brighten the complexion. Maracuja extract reduces redness and irritation.
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- Tenny Zhang
PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHINA GLAZE; TARTE
WOULDN’T YOU LATHER?
not use DBP, formaldehyde, or toluene in their formulas. Cosmetic talcum powder — found in eye shadows, baby powders and primers — has been linked to a range of inflammatory lung disorders, including cancer caused by inhalation of the powder. Propylene glycol, commonly used in conditioners, creams, lotions and deodorants, is also used industrially in anti-freeze, brake fluid, paint and floor wax. It can cause dermatitis, kidney and liver damage, rashes and dry skin. There are many makeup and beauty lines that avoid these harmful chemicals. Just like food, read the ingredient lists of beauty products to reduce your exposure to potentially dangerous substances.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SEPHORA, CLINIQUE, AND ESTEE LAUDER
BEAUTY
LIGHTEN UP
One girl’s dark tale of skin color politics
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ike so many unwitting shoppers, I’ve been the prey of overenthusiastic makeup counter ladies while walking through department stores. While getting skin creams, gels and foundations smeared all over, I’ve heard the same promise crowed over and over: “This will make you glow. You’ll just glow after using this.” And after succumbing to this insistent peddling, I find that, depending on what part of the world I’m in, the color I expected to end up glowing is on completely opposite ends of the skin tone spectrum. If on vacation visiting family in Taiwan, the skin products I walk out of stores with carry brash promises of eliminating all dark pigment from my visage. The end result? A “Twilight”-worthy bloodless face that has surely never seen the light of day. On a random visit to any American drugstore, all I see are powders and lotions emblazoned with palm trees and sun logos. But unlike my friends who are destined to always freckle and never tan, a few hours under the sun and I’ve naturally acquired the tint that some can only come by with a gallon of self-tanner. I’ve been in skin tone limbo. With a large extended family back in Asia, I’ve been chided for not maintaining a fairer complexion, something that I’ve seen Asian women wear sun visors and duck under “sun-brellas” to achieve. And once I
find myself back home in California, my nowpaler skin is an aberration. My makeup counter reflects a strange bipolarity — whitening creams, lightening face masks, bronzers and post-tan serums. While my wallet cries out and my skin settles into a mid-tone hue of my fluctuating desires, somewhere, some cosmetic company corporate official is gloating and working on two new sets of advertisements for the Western and Eastern hemispheres. Consider this: on the American Clinique website, an entire category is dedicated to sun products and self-tanners. Navigate to the company’s Asian counterpart site (China or Japan, for example), and that same category has been devoted to skin whitening. What seems like two-faced marketing is unfortunately just strategic business. And that strategy has successfully zeroed in on the arbitrary assignment of ideal skin tones in different parts of the world. Companies have recognized that geographical location can predict what kind of skin tone altering products their audiences will want. And while girls of different complexions copiously apply self tanner or frantically dodge UV rays, the underlying reasons for these varying inclinations have given way to contentious debates. Despite whatever end these color-altering products are supposed to yield, the original intentions for using these creams and skin products were meant to be harmless. For the most part,
makeup and skincare appease superficial desires, our I-want-to-look-good needs. Yet from something as trivial as lightening creams and bronzers, issues ranging from health concerns to socioeconomic arguments have arisen. When Vaseline created a skin-lightening Facebook app as a campaign for a new skin cream in India, extreme responses vilified the cosmetic company for exploiting laypeople’s tendencies to equate light skin with elite castes. Americans’ hyper-tendency to frequent tanning beds has prompted legislators to create regulations limiting the use of such devices. Even tan-aholic Snooki of “Jersey Shore” has reconsidered her bronzing desires: The star stated she no longer would use tanning beds ever since Obama’s health care bill included a ten percent tax on such services. Perhaps what remains an even more persistent concern is the perpetuation of unrealistic beauty ideals. After all, self-tanners and whitening creams only exist because someone is just not bronze enough and someone is just not pale enough. Skin tone altering products have led to unfortunately serious issues, but the ultimate ill endorsed by these items is encouraging individuals to nitpick at and alter physical attributes that are, in reality, aspects of individual uniqueness. When the world realizes this, maybe then we’ll see that beauty is really skin deep. - Stephanie Chang
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in her coils
On Steph: Shirt ($32), Sway; Bracelet ($14), Pretty Penny; Heels ($26), Sway; Crinoline Skirt (Under, $20), Twisters Vintage; Faux Leather Skirt, Belt Necklace and Earrings, Stylist’s own. On Ryan: Tie ($26), Twisters Vintage; Suit and shoes, Stylist’s Own; Shirt, Model’s Own.
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Head Stylist: Justine Carreon Production Team: Samantha Giordano, Melissa Ou, Deanna Wagner, Diane Zhou Models: Steph Gray and Ryan Holmes Photographer: Stephen Sun Hair & Makeup Artists: Melissa Ou, Deanna Wagner
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hard rock Jacket ($26), Crossroads Trading Co. in Oakland; Hat ($24), Pretty Penny; Gold and Green Necklace ($480), Iniam; Bra ($9.50), Sway. Faux fur collar, Black necklace and Pearl necklace, Stylist’s Own.
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poised &and poisonous On Steph: Dress with matching belt ($37), Pretty Penny; Sweater ($375), Iniam; Ring, Stylist’s own. On Ryan: Tie ($26), Twisters Vintage; Jacket, Stylist’s own; Shirt, Model’s own.
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iron out the details
On Steph: Dress ($380) and Coat ($642), Iniam; Shoes (37.50), Crossroads Trading Co. in Oakland; Necklace and Ring, Stylist’s Own. On Ryan: Pants and shoes, Stylist’s own; Shirt, Model’s own.
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buried truth Dress ($475), Iniam; Fur Stole ($24), Pretty Penny; Purse ($16), Pretty Penny; Shoes Shoes($26), ($26),Sway; Sway;Ring, Ring,Stylist’s Stylist’sOwn. own.
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SHOPPING GUIDE
CB2 & Z GALLERIE
The typical college-student budget often leaves little room for decorating expenses, but you don’t have to limit yourself to the bargain stores. If you’re growing tired of scouring IKEA but you’re on a budget, CB2 is the place to go. CB2 is a good place to buy glasses and dishes that not everyone will have. Their dinner plates, bowls, mugs and wine glasses are both affordable and attractive, with a modern look that includes square plates and pillar-shaped stemware. CB2 offers an aesthetic that is both minimalist and playful, as evidenced by their recycled textile wall art and funky shag rugs. Stop in to buy pillows, sheet sets and bedspreads in fresh graphic prints if you’re in the midst of decorating your bedroom, or invest in new furniture when you’re ready to make the post-college move. More of a glamorous type? Head to Z Gallerie for the silks and silver pieces needed to bedazzle your home. The store offers a classic but luxurious aesthetic that includes mirrored dressers, beds with plush fabric headboards and even a rhinestone-covered stapler (it’s cuter than it sounds).
Go Fourth, Shoppers! Take a trip to a Northwest Berkeley shopping oasis
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any Berkeley students have never heard of 4th Street, which is surprising because it is so nearby. The small shopping strip runs from Hearst Avenue to Virginia Street on 4th Street and offers a mix of local boutiques, chain retailers, restaurants and galleries that make the area a fun place to explore. Next time you’re in the mood to shop, forgo the BART trip to San Francisco and check out 4th Street instead. With easy access to parking and public transportation, 4th Street is the perfect place shop, eat or spend a lazy Sunday afternoon.
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TACUBAYA
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ERIKA VELIZ
Nothing is better than beef tacos and good beer. Whenever you crave a Mexican dinner, head to Tacubaya. The restaurant is located in the center of 4th Street, and offers authentic Mexican food and drinks at reasonable prices. The restaurant prepares their enchiladas, burritos and tacos with handmade tortillas, and they use organic and sustainable produce whenever possible. The only thing lacking at Tacubaya is a free salsa bar: be sure to order chips and salsa to share.
SHOPPING GUIDE
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ERIKA VELIZ
Convert just opened last May, and their large selection of beach-wear-inspired brands makes them a welcome addition to the Berkeley shopping scene. Namely, Convert carries labels like RVCA (for all you Rumi Neely and Erin Wasson fans) that are difficult to find in the campus area. They also offer brands like Hurley, Volcom and Quiksilver. The store prides itself on its carefully chosen collection of stylish and eco-friendly clothes. Coveted items include casual sweaters, hoodies, leather jackets and a great selection of shoes, headphones, watches, belts and other accessories. Best of all, guys can shop here! Half of the Convert store is devoted to the jeans, graphic tees, jackets and hoodies that the boys who skate and surf will love. They even carry a selection of sneakers and shirts for kids — if you happen to know some particularly fashion-forward gradeschoolers.
BETTE’S DINER
CONVERT
If you’re craving a big brunch, head to Bette’s Diner. You can’t beat delicious souffle pancakes and eggs, especially when served in an old-fashioned diner on a Sunday morning. Must-haves include fresh baked scones and home fries. If you don’t have time for a sitdown brunch, you can pick up muffins, cookies and coffee next door at Bette’s To-Go. Red velvet cupcakes, almond tea cakes, tarts, lemonade and Arnold Palmers make the perfect snack when you need a mid-shopping pick-me-up.
J. Crew lovers, meet your new favorite store. Jigsaw is a wellknown boutique in the U.K., where they have over 40 stores, and Berkeley is lucky enough to host one of their six U.S. locations. Jigsaw offers comfy sweaters and trendy tops made of high quality materials. The accessories are also worth checking out. Jigsaw always seems to have gorgeous leather totes and handbags in stock, and the studded, leather and zippered aesthetic ensures that you can acquire an edgy look of designer caliber at a significantly lower price. Added bonus: you won’t be that girl with an overly trendy, all-too-recognizable bag.
JIGSAW
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CIAL
SPE CHING
BLEA ! H T E TE $125 $250 G HOME N I CH BLEA E C I F IN-OF M O ZO
.D.S. D I V E L I A N R O T ROBIN2999 REGENT STREET, SUITE 525 705 BERKELEY, CA 94 (510)548-5692 om
www.robinlevidds.c
EXPIR ES JANU ARY 3 ON 1, 201 1 Exam, bleaching consultation, and cleaning required before treatment can begin. Call ofямБce for details.
Textural Overdose Feathers, Metals and Fur, Oh my! Embracing texture to the max, our models showcase a variety of materials to overdose on.
avian allure
Feather hat, stylist’s own; Yellow cable knit sweater ($22), Mars; Olive lace shirt, Sway; Black leather skirt ($28), Mars.
Head Stylists: Ria Meer, Michelle Cho Production Team: Abigail Hibbs, Amaris Montes, Lisa Park Models: Samantha Hochhauser, Arielle Scott Photographer: Nican Robinson Hair/Makeup Artist: Talun Xi BAREMAGAZINE.ORG
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rebel yell On Arielle: Red fur coat, Mars; Belt, stylist’s own; Shoes, Sway. On Samantha: Silver coat (price available upon request), Custo Barcelona; Blue bodysuit ($14), Mars.
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it’s the fuzz White maribou feather coat ($36), Mars; Gradated scarf, stylist’s own; Black velvet maxi dress worn as skirt ($10), Buffalo Exchange; Obama White Shirt ($167.20), Custo Barcelona; Shoes, Stylist’s Own
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chain reaction
On Samantha: Gray fur vest ($30), Buffalo Exchange; White mesh shirt ($10), Buffalo Exchange; Suede shorts, Mars; Tukano Bracelets ($150 each), Silvia Tcherassi; Shoes, stylist’s own. On Arielle: Cocama Vest ($920), Silvia Tcherassi; Gold knit pants, Buffalo Exchange; Shoes, Sway.
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BACK OF THE CLOSET
Things we couldn’t fit anywhere else
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pon exiting the Ashby or Lake Merritt BART station on a weekend afternoon, you will be welcomed by vendors offering jewelry, used clothing, books, delicious ethnic foods and much, much more: Enter the flea market experience. Just outside Lake Merritt BART, the Alameda Point Antiques and Collectibles Faire, usually referred to as the Alameda Flea Market, is an unknown gem to most Berkeley students. On crowded Saturday and Sunday afternoons, rows of vendors’ booths gleam with unique clothing and stellar jewelry pieces. From chunky rings and necklaces to simple gold and silver chains, the piles of vintage jewelry are dangerously tempting and, not to mention, affordable. Walking further down the tented aisles, you have to make the tough decisions: buy a vintage fur vest for five dollars or a new silk scarf for ten, to indulge in Mexican art for twenty-five dollars or bargain with a seller for cheap wooden antiques to decorate your apartment. After making all those difficult choices, it is time for a break: the Mexican food truck full of carne asada taquitos and bean burritos beckons you. After the much-needed nourishment, the next step is to focus on adding to your collection
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of beauty products, best accomplished by buying every shade of MAC eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara for nearly a pittance. Who needs stuffy, expensive stores when you can spend a whole day outdoors listening to Latin music, munching on fruit, popcorn and Mexican delicacies while you shop till your heart is content? On your way back home, hop off at Ashby BART and visit the popular Berkeley Flea Market to find a variety of rock ‘n’ roll vinyls, eco-friendly fashion and stimulating books. Although the array is definitely on the pricier side, the Berkeley Flea Market boasts a more organized display where digging for finds is not necessary. As you walk through this smaller flea market, you’ll be entertained by the sounds of a large drum circle as you feast on African food (if you’re not too full, that is). With Japanese trinkets, Tibetaninspired wool coats and Chinese jewelry, there’s a multicultural fusion happening in these aisles. Whether you are looking for cheap novelties, unique fashion or just a relaxing way to spend a weekend afternoon, the flea markets in Alameda and Berkeley are sure to satisfy both discerning or spontaneous palates. -Amaris Montes
PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMARIS MONTES
Flea Market Fun Times
back of the closet
D.I.Y, D.I.Y, My Darling! With the economy the way it is, most of us are cutting down on luxuries such as eating out and shopping. And yet retail stores carrying the season’s latest trends tempt you at every corner, screaming at you to max out your credit cards. Instead of giving in to that temptation, you can go the D.I.Y. route by investing in some good materials and learning how to make the designs that you wish you could afford. Two UC Berkeley undergrads, Melissa Steele-Ogus and Ming Stephens, do exactly that.
-Rucha Tatke
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MING STEPHENS; ERICKA VELIZ
MELISSA STEELE-OGUS
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MING STEPHENS
elissa has been making jewelry since she was three years old, learning the craft from her grandmother. At 10 she started wire work and chain-making, taking more classes at 16. Today, she’s quite crazy about jewelry-making and has her own business, Honeycomb Jewelry (Melissa means “honeybee” in Greek). What started as a way to make money to afford better materials quickly turned into a love of crafting pieces for others. Melissa is especially proud of a beautiful necklace she made for a friend’s wedding, and plans on taking up enameling next. She’s also a chain mail enthusiast, but says that the craft is time-consuming and doesn’t have much of a market. When she’s not selling her pieces, Melissa prefers to make jewelry for herself, or modify others’ designs to suit her taste and style. Her work is eclectic. She tries to emulate honeycomb structures in her designs, in the spirit of her love of honeybees. “I don’t necessarily see myself as an artist, but as a craftsperson,” says Melissa. “Making jewelry appeals to me on two levels: physically and mentally. The most satisfying thing is combining skill and creativity. When I have an idea and I have to figure out how to make it work, if I can, it’s an incredibly rewarding feeling.
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ing was in the fifth grade when she first started a sewing project with her sister, but when she won a regional award for a recycled skirt and vest set, she realized this was something she could really pursue. In her last two years of high school, Ming was a medalist at the state level. Progressing from simple patterns to making her own designs, Ming has a flamenco dress, several Halloween costumes, a senior prom dress and her own graduation dress as part of her repertoire. Amazingly, she also made a wedding dress for her sister in just four days! She has the flair of an artist and goes with whatever she finds interesting when she makes pieces for herself, even modifying the design as she goes along, showcasing a truly mercurial personal style. When working on projects for friends, she tries her best to be faithful to their original ideas. “Sewing is a way of relaxing for me” Ming explains. “I like to plan on a project after a wave of midterms to de-stress. I enjoy the challenge of trying to create, especially when I have a difficult design, or limited materials, but I do it more out of practicality and as a creative outlet.”
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BACK OF THE CLOSET
A Convenient Truth About T-Shirts On Campus
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rop crotch pants, clogs, military-inspired blazers - all trends that were “aut” faster than Heidi Klum could say “Forever 21 knock-off.” But with highfashion labels like Prouenza Schouler and even mainstream chains like H&M creating “eco-friendly” collections, should “fair wage” and “sustainable” be classified as just the latest Fashion Week buzzwords? Or has a new era of consumer consciousness begun? EthiCAL Apparel, a club at the UC Berkeley campus which sells t-shirts made by brands such as Edun Live and Alternative Apparel, believes it’s the latter. With the mission of creating sustainable economic growth in developing countries, especially sub-Saharan Africa, ethi-
CAL Apparel sells custom-designed t-shirts to campus and community organizations, with the majority of the profits going towards creating fairly-paid and safe jobs (their latest goal of selling 2000 black shirts will provide 5.7 years of employment for an African farmer) and the rest going to invest in other social entrepreneurship projects, such as Berkeley alumni-created Vittana. They even sell t-shirts that are made from organic cotton, which is cotton grown without the use of chemicals or pesticides. And with their interesting designs, ethiCAL Apparel goes beyond the “triple bottom line” of economic profit, environmental responsibility, and labor concerns by making “fair trade” fashionable as well.
-Christine Fukushima
STATUS ON THE SPRITZ: Though Facebook and Twitter might suggest otherwise, some styles can’t be articulated on a newsfeed. Without words, perfume evokes your best feature: your essence. A well-matched scent crosses the t’s and dots the i’s of any ensemble, taking your outfit from a look to a presence. Update your style status with this season’s fragrances and you’re sure to be “liked!” @ THE LIBRARY
@ A COFFEE SHOP
@ THE GLADE
ON A DATE
OUT ON THE TOWN
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia for Women ($39.50, 3.4 oz.): Its crushed mint charisma will keep any student focused, while the zesty lemon is balanced with a hint of brown sugar.
Diptyque Eau Duelle ($120, 3.4 oz.): An energetic flow passes between gin and cardamom but the lasting earthy incense steeps with the rich bergamot like in a cup of Earl Grey.
Burberry Sport for Women ($58, 1.7 oz.): Athletic and clean, this breath of fresh air chimes in with ginger and sea salt to brighten the mandarin top note. An elegant warm honeysuckle rounds out a strong core.
D&G 3 L’Imperatrice ($65, 3.4 oz.): A bold sandalwood foundation paired with a compelling combination of rhubarb and red currant makes you his empress. Sexy, yet not overly feminine, this dynamic eau de toilette plays hard to get and leaves you wanting more.
Love, by Chloé ($85, 1.7 oz.): Easily transition from your day to evening with the powdery talc and fine wisps of orange and wisteria blossom. When crossing the street or ordering cocktails, heads will turn in your floralscented wake.
- Christine Deakers 42 ISSUE 8, FALL 2010
PHOTOS COURTESY OF GIORGIO ARMANI, DIPTYQUE EAU DUELLE, BURBERRY, D&G, AND CHLOÉ
A Fresh Fragrance for Every Occasion
BACK OF THE CLOSET
TRACING THE TREND
ENCYCLOPEDIA
BRETON-ICA
The lineage of the striped sailor shirt
W ILLUSTRATION COURTESY OF NASTIA VOYNOVSKAYA
hether it goes by the name of Breton, nautical or sailor, the iconic striped shirt is a wardrobe must. Everyone from fashion editors to the sales clerks at H&M don stripes — often in a boxy cut with long sleeves and a boatneck — to instantly add a dash of cool, effortless simplicity to their looks. Though stripes and nautical motifs mutate into different trends nearly every season, this fashion classic comes from modest origins. March 28, 1858: The French government passes a law that makes a blue-and-white striped knit part of the regulation uniform for French sailors. (The original supposedly featured 21 stripes to represent each of Napoleon’s victories.) 1889: The Saint James Company is established in Normandy, France, creating what it still calls “the genuine pure new knitted woolen Breton seaman’s sweater.” The name Breton refers to the French coastal region of Brittany. Today, Saint James’ classically cut shirts have a cult following. 1910s: While living in Deauville in the Basse-Normandie region of France, Coco Chanel discovers the warm navy-and-white striped knits worn by the local sailors and fishermen. She incorporates the shirt into her new comfortable, sportswear-based style. 1940s: Young artists and thinkers inspired by the existentialist writing of Jean-Paul Sartre invade post-liberation Paris. Both men and women wear the striped Breton shirt as a sign of youth rebellion, non-conformity and the avant-garde. 1950s-1960s: The Breton shirt transforms into a variety of styles and its popularity explodes. Actresses like Audrey Hepburn and Jean Seberg wear stripes with flowing skirts and prim, cropped trousers. Meanwhile, Andy Warhol, his muse Edie Sedgwick and other prominent figures in the New York artistic underground make stripes a mod wardrobe staple. Today: Breton stripes have reached mainstream fashion at every price point, from Target and J.Crew to Givenchy, Comme des Garçons and Jean Paul Gaultier.
-Samantha Giordano
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