BH Dressage - Issue 31 by Baroque Horse Magazine

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Fresians, Fresians, Fresians, Warmbloods, Warmbloods, Warmbloods, Dressage, Arabs, Dressage, Dressage, Arabs, Arabs, Showjumpers, Showjumpers, Showjumpers, Thoroughbreds, Thoroughbreds, Thoroughbreds, Shires, Shires, Eventers, Eventers, Shires, Eventers, Ponies. Ponies. Ponies. We We flyfly fly them them all.all. all. We them IRT has been flying horses been flying around horses thearound around IRTIRT hashas been flying horses thethe globe for over globe 40 years. for over But 40 no years. matter But no matter globe for over 40 years. But no matter how muchhow things how much change, things one thing change, one thing much things change, one thing always stays always the same stays – the the world same class, – the world class, always stays the same – the world class, personal service personal clients service receive clients when receive when personal service clients receive when flying theirflying horse flying with their IRT. horse with IRT. their horse with IRT. With the recent With acquisition the recent ofacquisition a German a German With the recent acquisition of of a German office andoffice Quarantine office and Facility Quarantine in Haren, Facility in Haren, and Quarantine Facility in Haren, IRT Australia: IRT +61 Australia: 3 9643 3000 3 9643 3000 IRTTel Australia: TelTel +61+61 3 9643 3000 IRT is wellIRT equipped IRT is well to equipped connect the to connect Email: cburke@irt.com Email: cburke@irt.com is well equipped to connect thethe Email: cburke@irt.com world withworld offices world in with the offices USA,inUK, in the USA, with offices the USA, UK,UK, IRT Germany: IRT +49 Germany: 171 784 7447 +49 784 7447 IRTTel Germany: TelTel +49 171171 784 7447 Australia and Australia New Zealand. and New Zealand. Australia and New Zealand.

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EDITORIAL

Editor-In-Chief Danielle Skerman editor@baroquehorse.com.au

SUB-EDITOR

Patty Taylor patty@baroquehorse.com.au

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CONTRIBUTORS

Patty Tayor, Danielle Skerman, Mike Robertshaw, Nuno Cavaco, Teresa Burton, Gale Bransford, Dr John Kohnke, Dr Philippa Kohnke, Karen Sternbeck, Georgia Leva Cath McDowell, The Nude Horse, Jochen Schleese, Susan Kauffmann & Christina Cline Julia Kohl, Dr Georgina Learmonth & KER.

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editors note began; the goal of building a topline for your horse and the need to look at all aspects and not just one.

am often asked how I decide what is going to go in the magazine. The reasons can vary, sometimes it's a conversation or curiosity I've had or seen, sometimes people ask me to cover a specific topic or it can due to personal interest. I was looking at my horses telling myself that I need to make more time for them and myself. I decided first things first is that I need to work on my horse's topline. This got me thinking about what people know about it and how many don't even give enough thought to it. I was recently looking at photos of a retired FEI level horse and was amazed to see that there was next to no topline, and the more I looked I started to notice it was more prevalent in so many horses. Thus the journey to exploring this topic

As with us, we need proper nutrition and exercise, and the same goes for a horse. In this feature, we look at training from the ground and saddle, the horse's anatomy and biomechanics and the importance of a topline when riding your horse and the nutrition. I wanted to make sure that we covered this topic in more than an 'ideas or concept' way and hope there is something you can take home and put into place with your horses. We have also included some exercises that you can use in building your horse's topline. This has been a bit of a passion project both of mine and those who have aided me in putting these articles together for you. I hope you enjoy them and can take something from them in your own journey with your horses. With the timing of this issue being in winter, we wanted to have a good look at your horse's health and well-being during the colder months. So included is a

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w e l c o m e

Winter Feature that has topics from hoof care to an equine cold, and yes your horse can catch a cold! Plus the age-old question of to rug or not to rug? You will also find out more about equine asthma, clipping for winter, joint health, and some handy winter tips for you. For many of us in Australia, getting out a vet when your horse is looking a little under the weather can be a difficult due to the vast distances in our country. It is essential for every horse owner to know how to take and monitor their horse's vital signs. In this issue, we have an informative article from Dr John Kohnke and Ms Georgia Leva on this. It's very educational with lots of tips and information for the horse owner to use as a reference guide. In the last issue, we had an interview with talented Tristan Tucker and his TRT Method. In this issue, we follow up on with Tristan and do a review of this online training. Best to grab a coffee and a comfortable seat as we have lots to keep you reading.

/ Editor-In-Chief / Baroque Horse DRESSAGE / www.baroquehorse.com.au

Until next time...

contents

I S S U E

w h a t

31 i s

i n s i d e

01 Education Building a Topline with Mike Robertshaw Saddle fit and the Topline Development by Jochen Schleese Hoof Cracks by Susan Kaufmann & Christina Cline

02 Health 20 60 62 70 74 76 79

Nutrition for building Topline How much do I feed? By the Nude Horse The Vital Signs by Dr John Kohnke and Ms Georgia Leva Joint Health by Dr Georgina Learmonth Herbs by Cath McDowell 5 Hand Hints Drought and Green Drought by KER

On the cover: Nuno Cavaco working in-hand. Photo by Burno Barata

We Recommend page:

10 16 34

04 Training 14 22 28 42 68

Building a Topline Tips by Nuno Cavaco Handy Hints for Working a Horse from the Ground by Gale Bransford Creative Dressage Schooling by Julia Kohl 8 Dressage Competition Tips by Gale Bransford TRT Method Review

page:

Preparing your Horse for the Winter - Seven Winter Tips - Equine Asthma - Equine Bedding - Rugging - Horse Colds - Winter Hair Cuts

page:

44 46 47 49 52 54 56

page:

03 Of Interest

14 28 34 44

INTRO: DANIELLE SKERMAN TEXT: MIKE ROBERTSHAW PHOTOS: Depositphotos.com, Catia Castro & Supplied

E D U C AT I O N

BUILDING a

Topline

on a horse

Firstly, what is a topline? Topline, simply put, is the muscle groups that run along a horse's spine and stretches along the vertebral column (spine) from the end of the neck at the wither area, down the back and loin, and over the top of the hip into the croup region.

'm of the opinion that the topline of a horse is one of the most overlooked aspects of training and unfortunately many don't pay enough attention to. The topline is crucial in so many ways, and without it, you could be causing a lot of pain and discomfort to your horse. I've seen many top FEI level dressage horses that have next to no topline and one would naturally assume that a horse at this level should have an excellent one. This is because their training has been hollow in the back and not engaging these muscles as they should be. Unfortunately, this leads to horses being in pain and can cause injury and behavioural issues. To build a topline and the importance of and my view is that there are four key areas: 1.

Training in-hand and ridden

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Biomechanics and importance of a top line when riding with a saddle

Nutrition

Under Saddle/Ridden

In this article, we will look at the training side for both in-hand and ridden aspect written by Mike Robertshaw (UK). Mike operates 'Caernarfon' in the west corner of Wales which is a riding and training centre based on the classical principles of horsemanship. He trains young horses both under saddle and in harness and does corrective, rehabilitative and more advanced training for mature horses. In the following article, we have some in-hand examples by Nuno Cavaco (p14), an explanation by Jochen Schleese (p16) on the back and the importance of a good

topline before you put a saddle on and ride them. Lastly, we delve into the nutrition side, and the importance of that and what foods/supplements are required (p20). TRAINING IN-HAND AND RIDDEN Words by Mike Robertshaw It is essential to develop the strength and stability through the back in preparation for: first ridden work, rehabilitating a damaged back, poor saddle fit, tissue loss/ atrophy, one-sidedness/stiffness, strain or other injuries. The way to reactivate, strengthen and build up muscle in its most fundamental form is simply to move the actual muscle you want to develop

A good trainer/rider that rides/trains for the horse's welfare and biomechanics will engage the back and the horse should have a lovely strong topline. Use the knowledge that you learn and observe the horses of your trainer or people you look up to and see if their training is done in a way that is best for the horse. Even look at your own horse and see if the trainer you have is helping your horse physically.

(not just the horse just physically moving forward). It is important to ease into exercise gradually so not as to overstrain them. We find ways to build up the horse's strength through stretching and asking them to contract alternately. It's vital that care is taken in gradually building up the range of movement, the speed of movement and the duration of work. That one isn't to overload the horse that it causes actual damage or even delays the achievement of ones aims through fatigue. To a degree, this is specialist work. The best traditional classical training is all based on the development of strength, flexibility and the modification of the way the horse conducts himself naturally to an entirely different form and balance to best carry a rider. This is the very reason behind the school movements and disciplines and

the working of them in-hand and from the ground as preparation for riding or indeed any other work. The sad saggy atrophied swayback with the beginnings of the kissing-spine syndrome can often be rejuvenated entirely, if not rendered more capable than ever before, in only a few short weeks. It is also equally effective in the preparation of youngsters for their work under saddle or other work although it does require the knowledge, skill and experience necessary to ensure it is a safe and beneficial application, yet, that said, surely that is equally true of all training. When you get started in training something new with your horse, it is always best to take it slow, and allow your horse to fully understand what you want of them. It is best to familiarising the horse with the format and language of the work in a

walk of the training/physio itself and then exercised in a reasonably slow but active trot. In short, working towards the ability to work in the deepest possible bend, in a correct form and balance, being the route to strengthen through the back ultimately. It contracts (collects) one side to the absolute, and stretches the other side to the max. When working with your horse, it is necessary to open up the lines of communication, respect, trust and a mutual understanding of body language. One can work through the progression of lunge work, close work, the development of shoulder in, travers etc., encouraging the horse to reach into a long frame within the exercises and to contract into the beginnings of a collection. The concept of lunging a horse is not a new one and is faced with many different theories, some good and bad. Many have

E D U C AT I O N

Picture top left: Above view of the horses back. Cรกtia Castro/Arrรกbida Horse Sport Center arrabidahorsesc.pt Picture Below: A nice back with a good topline. Note no dip at withers and muscle development along the spine

It is recommended to alternate the rein several times during the 15-30 minute session. This time may vary while you take consideration of the progress and how taxing and strenuous this work is for your horse and giving slightly more concentration on the less easy side. Typically, the right rein is the most effective work not only for developing the topline, but for whole physiological improvement/ treatment/training for strength, balance, collection, behaviour (so-called 'bad behaviour' always has a reason, and frequently it's due to discomfort) and a multitude of other issues.

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Photo: Cรกtia Castro/Arrรกbida Horse Sport Center arrabidahorsesc.pt

been taught that lunging on a small circle is highly dangerous and damaging and indeed done wrong, too fast or out of balance it can be catastrophic. However, carried out correctly, the results are astounding. It is best to work on a circle of five to ten metres depending on the horse's stage, size and conformational abilities or limitations. In effect, a Volte A (6, 8 or 10-meter circle which starts and ends at the same point - often looking like a teardrop in shape). In teaching the horse to carry himself in vertical balance, in a true bend, as opposed to centrifugally, and to move from relative collection to the fullest extension in this form is incredibly effective. This work ultimately rebuilds backs!

Educated lunge work is the most versatile of practices and can be the medium for the entire range of work, from the most basic to the most advanced. Long-reining is also, for many, a neglected skill that can prepare a horse's mouth in an experienced, sympathetic hand for ridden work. Shortreining is often referred to as in-hand work. Then, there is liberty, free, or tackless training and can be built purely out of the horse's nature to follow and emulate a senior respected and trusted herd member. When riding a horse, a common error is to overuse the flexion of the neck. What this essentially does makes the horse incapable of working truly straight around in an even line of curvature. It is important that when you work-in-hand that you don't duplicate these errors and know the difference between bend and flexion.

It is important to remember that there are two areas of flexibility. 1.

The longitudinal: Linear extension and contraction between nostrils and hind heels. (Linear - arranged in or extending along a straight or nearly straight line.)

The lateral flexibility: (Lateral - of, at, towards, or from the side or sides.) Generally the less understood and undoubtedly underdeveloped, and if often denied and ignored by some trainers.

When it comes to building the topline, it is the combination of BOTH longitudinal and lateral flexibility in developing the maximum degree of extension and contraction that is really effective. Longitudinal and lateral flexibility being worked on simultaneously gives the greatest range of movement possible and is thus the most effective. Throughout all these options, one can work on developing flexibility, balance and strength. It is also essential to have a trusting and 'following' relationship and without any recourse to pressure or duress beyond that to show that we can, in fact, be trusted. Once you have allowed your horse enough time to understand the exercises and what is being asked, and your horse has enough topline you can safely begin your ridden work. RIDDEN WORK In regards to preparing and strengthening the back for ridden work, all these approaches can be gainfully used and are well worth practising for the development of both all-round horse and horseman, under all conditions and terrains. Pole work, lengthening and shortening stride and varying the speed and elevation and tactical grid-work are equally beneficial for gymnasticising the dressage horse as educating the showjumper and one of my favourites, random obstacle negotiation. With random (safe) obstacles, building up slowly from the misplaced trotting poles that have got kicked or tripped over, instead of rushing to replace them correctly, let

your horse learn to negotiate them. Then, by degrees and only within their confidence, add in the odd motor tyres, toppled jump stands and bits of scary stuff. They will reach to investigate the unknown, and they will gather themselves to hop over things, and by varying speed and balance they will learn to use both their minds and bodies to sort out the increasing challenges while trust, physical and mental abilities grow, rounding off their education. Needless to say, this is also added to by varying the venue, also working on variable surfaces and slopes. The traditional path towards first ridden work includes many and varied, tried and tested educational and developmental exercises that add to the horse's strength, balance, gymnastics and importantly the familiarity with the environment, tools, props, equipment and 'language' utilised throughout his training and association with us. Throughout history, it has shown us that people like Lord Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle and others of his period understood this. Some horsemen from the past would work through the

Picture top left: Mike working his lusitano in-hand, enganing the hind quarters and using the back as he reaches under himself. Picture top right: Mike instrucing in the UK. Picture above: Rescue Lusitano before and after 5 months of work and good feed/nutrition. Picture left: Showing how the movement should lift the horses back.

entire repertoire of their training, up to and including airs above the ground before even beginning ridden work. Thus having an extremely wise, settled and educated horse prepared before sitting on him. We hope this gives you a clearer understanding of initially how to build the topline and of course the importance and benefits. We thank Mike for this article, and more can be found about him on his Facebook page: Cae Newydd Equine Solutions Riding and Training Centre.

IMAGES BY BRUNO BARATA, TIPS SUPPLIED BY NUNO CAVACO & TERESA BURTON LUSITANO HORSE FINDER

T R A I N I N G

DEVELOPING your horse's

Topline

It is important when working with your horse to build his topline that you take a holistic approach - it´s all about the whole horse.

on’t be tempted to divide your horse into parts as this generally results in over development in some areas and under development in others. You will find it far more effective to work slowly, precisely and gently, teaching your horse self-carriage and balance during in hand, lunging and ridden work. You are activating him from the back through to the front with keen precision in each exercise, use lots of transitions and lateral work; aim to develop dynamic activity without him racing forward. It is more about him lifting up through the belly which stretches the withers, back, loin right through to the crop area. We need to create back movers not leg movers, when the horse swings all through the body he becomes supple and athletic, when he is just moving his legs he will become stiff un-supple, his movement flat

not dynamic and more than likely he will become unwilling to go forward. Nuno´s tell us that building a topline is a daily job, regular gentle work is much more effective than irregular work that is too strong leaving your horse stiff and with painful muscles the following day. Focus on gradually building up, varying the work to keep it enjoyable and interesting. Developing muscles with the young horse starts with the goal to get them to stretch their frame on the lunge. The aim is for them to stay long and low, the head and neck never coming above the horizontal line. They learn to maintain a steady regular rhythm, balance and activity up and down through transitions on both reins. The purpose is to gradually go from long and low to collected later in his development.

WHY use lateral work in hand to build the topline? When considering topline lateral work has huge benefits. By training your horse to move laterally, you are teaching him greater levels of balance - as lateral is not a natural movement for them. In learning to rebalance themselves they work their muscles differently thus the muscles become more supple and athletic. They stretch both sides of their body and their upper line. If you are new to in hand work, we highly recommend our series of Ín Hand´ Articles which take you right from getting started right up to advanced dressage exercises. www.lusitanohorsefinder.com/workyour-horse-in-hand-by-nuno-cavaco/

(Left)In this image, Nuno is working Acarus in ´shoulder in´ on the long side of the arena. You can see in the image that Acarus is stretching all of the outside of his body whilst lifting and contracting the inside. As his inside hind leg passes under him, he lifts his belly upward, which stretches the upper line and strengthening his belly muscles. Maintaining a flowing and supple movement is vital to achieving the optimum results. (Above) This shows Acarus's neckline from withers and head position. Nuno is asking him the gently accept the bit while maintaining a vertical line in the front of the head. Nuno's aim is to improve the contact without a rider.

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(3 images above) Here Nuno is working Acarus in quarters out. Nuno is maintaining an inside and outside light rein contact with Acarus, in order to control his balance, forwardness, suppleness and sideways movement. Acarus is stretching his outside and contracting the inside in the way same as in shoulder in, however, the hind leg cross under is deeper, and the croup stretches further. This exercise is more advanced; the horse is developing greater suppleness. When your young horse is performing this well, he is more ready to be ridden. (Left) Nuno is taking a moment to assess AcarusÂ´s total outline how he is holding himself, how he is accepting a light contact, slight inside bend, his muscles and frame also his acceptance to Nuno as his leader.

e highly recommend that when beginning any work especially if you are new to it that you seek a professional trainer and advise. It is so important to be sure you are doing the exercises correctly to achieve

the best results. Lets face it in reality it is no different to when we embark of our own training programme with a personal trainer. The trainer can show us where we can improve, perfect our exercises and avoid injury. There many way to access quality ADVERTISEMENT

training now from finding a trainer in your local arena or you can now have online, live video coaching with Nuno Cavaco. See lusitanohorsefinder.com for more information.

TERDAUI C N AI N T IGO N

saddle fit AND

TOPLINE DEVELOPMENT

By Jochen Schleese, CMS, CSFT, CSE With notes from Muriel Chestnut

It’s hard to imagine putting all the work and effort into developing a proper top line of your horse without giving due consideration to the ramifications of proper saddle fit to accompany your endeavours. For me, one of the most critical areas of the horse’s back development begins at the base of the neck, where you find the insertion of the spinalis muscle under the trapezius into what I call the ‘triangle of doom”. This is the one key area where we have found that many saddles simply do not fit, and along with the saddle, length is absolutely crucial in determining proper saddle fit.

THE SUPERFICIAL BACK MUSCLES OF THE HORSE. The spinalis muscle balances the neck of the horse and lifts it from the base of its insertion area at the base of the neck. The part that lies under the trapezius and the rhomboids directly attached to the vertebrae has the function of stabilizing the spinal processes in the withers area. This muscle area is especially prone to significant development - especially with jumpers - because it is continually contracted to accommodate the shock of landing. The trapezius, the rhomboids, and the spinales muscles all converge in the withers area. One could liken the withers area to a distributor cap since it contains not only these different muscle groups but also nerve endings, as well

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as the convergence of both the nuchal- and dorsal - ligament systems. If the saddle puts pressure on this area because it's too tight in the tree, the horse will suffer significant pain. It will respond with a “flight response”, contracting his muscles in preparation for running away (or at least trying to!). We often think that it is just the horse’s back that we must address when we are talking about the topline, however, it’s not just the back that is affected negatively when we sit on our horse’s back. This is why correct saddle fit ultimately affects the entire horse and its ability to move efficiently and in balance under the added foreign weight of the rider. Studies show that the rider adds approximately 1/9 the total body weight of the horse, with the rider’s weight distributed 2/3 on the forelegs, 1/3 on the hind legs

and bites her in this triangle area, and second when a predator lands on his back before delivering the kill bite – often also in the same area! The instinctive reaction of the horse is completely different from what we as riders hope for when we put ourselves on the horse’s back. During mating, the stallion needs the mare to stand still. The backdrops, the pelvis rotates upward and outward, and the mare cannot move forward in collection nor suppleness. Obviously, she wouldn’t want to move; the point is that it would be difficult in any case – and this is also the result under a saddle that pinches in this area, while the rider urges the horse to move forward. When the horse experiences the fear of death from the predator on his back, the reaction is to buck or rear and then run away – more reactions we really don’t want when we’re on his back!

The area in red is the 'triangle of doom' where the saddle should absolutely not sit! while sitting; 80% on the forelegs, 20% on the hind legs when the rider has the weight in the stirrups. The topline musculature of a young horse aged 3-4 years relies on the passive supporting effect of the nuchal and supraspinous ligament system to reduce the load and strain on its upper chain of muscles, namely, the major locomotor back muscle, the longissimus dorsi. As the upper muscular becomes stronger and able to take more of the load, the neck can be raised progressively to a point where the horizontal balance is shifted backwards. The nuchal ligament is a key critical anatomical feature. It attaches to the poll and runs down the neck attaching to the withers, connecting to each cervical The nuchal and supraspinous ligaments are the 'cables' in the suspension bridge of the horse's back. vertebra along the way. As it continues along either side of the top of the spine it is called the supraspinous ligament, connecting at the sacrum. This powerful ligament literally holds the horse together longitudinally connecting the front end to the back end over the back. This ligament system is responsible for the horse’s ability to maintain ‘horizontal balance’ under the weight of the rider. A gullet plate that is too narrow negatively impacts this area as well and won’t allow the raising of the ‘bridge’ created by the spine and muscles spanning the length of the horse’s back. It therefore plays a crucial role for the rider it needs to stay loose and supple so that the horse can carry the rider with the maximum freedom of movement without causing any damage to his back. Nature did not make the horse a natural beast of burden. There are only two instances in nature where the horse would be confronted with additional weight on his back: First when the stallion mounts the mare

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Domestication of the horse over the years has come to allow them to trust us, however, there will be situations where the instinct prevails – one of these being when faced with a pinching saddle. If the saddle pinches at the withers/shoulder/trapezius/spinalis because the tree width and angle are wrong, this can be likened to the bite of the stallion. If the gullet channel is too narrow or too wide, or the saddle is too long, this can feel like a predator on his back – releasing the flight instinct.

The superficial back muscles of the horse.

T D E R A U ICNAI TNI G O N Picture left: The nuchal and supraspinous ligaments are the 'cables' in the suspension bridge of the horse's back. Picture below: Training during this time will affect the muscular conformation and, as a result, the 3-dimensional back shape and its saddle support area (SSA) will change. Picture bottom left: The unfortunate top line of a horse with visible subluxations caused by poor riding and compounded by an ill-fitting saddle!

o how do you know when the horse has had enough training and top line development to properly carry a rider without damaging his back? 1.

The shoulder blade has come up and back, is wider and very defined.

He has a well-muscled neck, stronger on top (from poll to withers) vis-à-vis the jaw where the neck transitions into the pectorals.

The trapezius is well developed and well-defined behind the shoulder blade.

Lapses in training will reverse any muscle development which can also impact the tendons and ligaments. Pain created in the back or hind end can manifest itself in the poll. Horses exhibiting pain here should be checked for correct saddle fit since horses who are experiencing discomfort as training progresses could be demonstrating that their bodies are changing and that the saddle that used to fit is now causing pressure points or pinching reflex points in the saddle support area. It is also important to note that as a horse progresses in correct gymnastic training the saddle support area size changes! This is a phenomenon that occurs because of the development of the thoracic sling musculature. The splenus and rhomboid

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

muscles strengthen and have a lifting effect on the horse’s ribcage. This lifting brings the shoulder blades (scapula) upwards and backwards thereby shortening the saddle support area. Therefore it is important to note that as your horse’s topline is being developed, so is the thoracic musculature. As the ribcage lifts, the width and angle of your horse’s shoulders become wider and steeper. Therefore it is also critical to ensure your saddle can be adjusted to accommodate these changes. It is not sufficient to simply add more padding in an attempt to raise or “pad up” your saddle to theoretically lessen the effects of your horse’s changing physique! Training during this time will affect the muscular conformation and, as a result, the 3-dimensional back shape and its saddle support area (SSA) will change. The unfortunate top line of a horse with visible subluxations caused by poor riding and compounded by an ill-fitting saddle! The neck (C1 - C7) is the most flexible area of the horse’s body. It is the balancing arm responsible for changing the loading of our horse’s body dimensions forwards, backwards, and together with the shoulders, left and right. Neck position is critical to the correct development of the

horse through its training and has a direct effect on the strengthening and suppling of the back musculature. Any restriction of the horse’s ability to particularly lower the neck will inhibit or prohibit the correct horizontal posture necessary for the future development of the horse’s upper musculature. These are just a few very superficial remarks for your consideration of how saddle fit affects your horse’s topline. Don’t let your horse end up like this one. For further information and instructions for DIY diagnostics on the issues raised, please go to our website at www.saddlesforwomen.com and watch our educational YouYube videos! With thanks to further information from: “The Dressage Horse Optimized” - Jim Masterson and Coralie Hughes “Tug of War: Classical vs. “Modern” Dressage” - Dr. Gerd Heuschmann DVM a

“That’s why I chose a Schleese Saddle.”

Fit is Everything.

AUTHOR: DANIELLE SKERMAN PHOTOS: depositphotos.com

H E A LT H

Nutrition for building

TOPLINE For Your Horse

For us, as humans, if we want to lose weight or build muscle, we know that it's extremely hard if you just do exercise and don't watch what you eat or watch what you eat and don't exercise. The two go hand in hand and are both essential. The same goes for all animals and in particular for the purpose of this article, building a topline. A horse needs a wellbalanced diet, which means feeding the right amount to suit their fitness regime (on page 60 we have an article on how much to feed your horse). A horseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s topline is the muscles that support the spine, from neck to hindquarters. A horse can be fat or fit and still have no topline. While we often refer to the horse's condition score (1-9 scale), this should not be solely taken into account to if your horse has an adequate topline, especially for you to be riding them. Without an appropriate topline, riding your horse can cause them great discomfort and even damage. (please refer to page 20 for more on this)

hese muscles along the back play an important role in how a horse performs, looks and feels. Given that the topline is muscle, to build it we need to move, strengthen and grow it. When you (as a human) exercise a muscle in the attempt to grow/strenghten it, you micro tear it, and when it mends it grows back stronger/larger. The same happens for horses and we need to be considerate of the fact that they too can feel sore the next few days after a good workout. A good stretch and warm up and down will aid in recovery. Did you know that exercise activates the muscle conditioning processes while nutrition provides its building blocks in the form of amino acids, which make up protein. After exercise, feeding your body with protein will aid in the repair - same again goes for your horses. Using feeds with protein which can be found in; soybeans, lupins, faba bean or canola meal. These feeds will give your horse access to good quality sources of protein, which builds muscle. Look for feeds with one or more of these protein sources. You may come across cottonseed meal as the protein source, and it is recommended that you avoid it as it is a poor source of protein that is deficient in the most important amino acids (amino acids are the building blocks of protein). With your hays, Lucerne has the highest

20 Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

Evaluation

protein level and will also contribute good quality protein to the diet. To build the muscle that is needed to improve topline, a horse needs all ten essential amino acids (which the horse’s own body can’t produce; he must acquire them through his feed) in his diet: •

Lysine; for all horses and particularly for young horse growth (this is the first “limiting” amino acid—more on this in a moment);

•

Threonine; for all horses and particularly for older horses in repair and maturation;

•

Methionine; for hoof and hair growth;

•

Valine, leucine, and isoleucine; which are branch-chain amino acids important for muscle recovery;

•

Phenylalanine; a building block for proteins as well as being a precursor to neurotransmitters;

•

Tryptophan; a building block for proteins as well as being a precursor to neurotransmitters; and

•

Arginine and histidine; which are used in protein biosynthesis.

Again, like humans, when a horse is younger, the rate of muscle protein synthesis is fastest during growth, and synthesis rates decline as the animal ages. If there is an inadequate amount of any of these essential amino acids in a horse’s diet, protein synthesis will only occur to the level of the limiting amino acid. For example, if a diet contains 125% (of what the horse needs in) lysine, 110% methionine, 101% threonine, and 80% tryptophan, then the horse will synthesize all the amino acids into protein at 80% of its potential.

THE TOPLINE

SCORE

The Topline Evaluation Score (TES) allows horse owners to easily grade their horse’s topline. This evaluation system assigns a score to help determine the stages of topline development. TES breaks the topline into three sections: •

Withers and mid back

•

Loin

•

Croup area

The topline grading system : •

Grade A: The ideal topline; according to the grading system, “The back, loin and croup are full and well rounded. The topline muscles are well developed and blend smoothly into his ribs. The horse should be able to perform work requiring the use of all of these muscles.”

•

Grade B: The topline is sunken in the back area between the vertebrae, and concave at the top of the ribs.

•

Grade C: The topline is sunken in both the back and loin areas.

•

Grade D: The topline is sunken in the back, loins, and croup.

Atrophy (wasting) of topline muscles begins in the withers, then continues to the back and gradually extends through the loins and croup and down into the hip and stifle.

For horses in an intense level of training, it is likely you will need to double a horse’s protein requirements. A lot of this might seem rather complicated, and you can go in-depth to the scientific reasoning behind it all. Essentially if you speak to a trusted equine nutritional supplements company and/or your quality horse feed company they can work a complete diet to suit your horse's needs. There are many fantastic supplements and feed specially designed and formulated with all the hard work already done for you. a This horse has a lacking of topline, you can see this particulary behind the wither and above the shoulder.

AUTHOR: GALE BRANSFORD

T R A I N I N G

HANDY HINTS for

working

A HORSE

from the ground

THE VERY YOUNG HORSE WHY?

his is the beginning of your future relationship with your horse.

It's about learning to work with your horse from the ground while addressing the basics. This can be done in various ways that are briefly listed in this article that both you and your horse will benefit from in the long run. There is much to learn and teach during the first years of any horse's life. Start by building a good relationship and clear communication.

WHEN

t's almost never too early to begin and is done best by familiarising your young horse to everyday handling as you are setting the young horse up with confidence and knowledge for a successful future.

a well-fitted halter and lead line. Carefully pick up and clean out all his feet regularly. This is excellent preparation for the farrier. Groom often and wash and hose down occasionally and teach your horse to tie up safely. Go for short walks together (or even a jog) with his dam if not weaned, and later, without her. It is also fun and educational to play a little bit in the round yard at liberty; this will build confidence and friendship. HOW •

Slowly familiarise your horse with new ideas and activities; never use force.

•

Be sensible and don't expect too much, too soon.

•

Ensure that the halter remains comfortable and is a safe fit as young horses grow and will need to have regular adjustments.

•

Be patient and take your time.

•

Be aware that bad habits you allow to form during this initial period may stay with your horse for the rest of his life.

•

Reward any sign of progress immediately and often, reward by scratching or rubbing in their favourite spots; they will soon show you where they are!

WHAT

pend time with your horse regularly! Even 10 minutes a day can make a huge difference. Teach your young horse to lead happily and safely with no pull or push using

22 Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

THE YEARLING WHOM HAS BEEN WEANED

t's time to learn to wear a rug if he hasn't already. Introduce him to long reining using a halter, and two long lunge lines plus a saddle pad with roller fitted comfortably. Turn left, right, halt - start this in the round yard or small safe area before going out in large open spaces. Personally, I like to introduce 'One Word Voice Commands' early for all three paces and to halt. If you are consistent, this comes in very handy with whatever work you choose and later when riding you can just 'breathe' these words and the horse will still understand. Continue to introduce new activities at liberty like playing with a large ball, walking and trotting over poles on the ground together or on a long lead. You can begin teaching a few 'baby' lateral steps at a walk with just the halter, rope and whip. A few steps forward and to the right - a few steps forward and to the left - a few steps of rein back. Always just two to three steps at any time to begin with and then reward! And remember to go straight for awhile in between any lateral steps. It's essential to keep this work all very easy and calm and use the wall to help you, if necessary. I don't want to have anyone horrified by the thought of a few steps backwards at this age. I am sure I have seen baby foals backing up from nursing since their very first day of life, and this is all about beginning the mobility of the horse for future work and nothing more. Introduce your horse to the whip, he should be comfortable for you to touch him all over with the whip and teach him that a soft tap means to move away and if you rest the whip on him, it means to stop moving. Please note that the whip is used only to point or as an extension of a soft hand. A horse should never be afraid of the whip. Encourage your horse to both lengthen and

shorten his stride while maintaining the same tempo (timing). Later this lengthening can be useful for maintaining a long neck when you ask for longitudinal flexion (see page 10). Be innovative and keep him interested, so he continues to look forward to spending time with you. It's rare, but you may have to familiarise the young colt with a bit if you are going to show him in lead classes, otherwise, wait a couple of years as teeth are still forming. This may not seem like a lot of progress although when working in very short sessions this time will pass quickly and, they grow up way too fast. Please remember to work on both sides of your horse equally - this simple rule is forever! THE TWO TO THREE YEAR OLD

ow is the time to put all the starting gear on and to think about mouthing/bitting. I would suggest a well-fitting thickish snaffle, depending on the inner shape of his mouth, perhaps with a little roller/keys for the tongue to play with and please make sure you choose a wellfitting and comfortable bit. Begin long reining by using the bridle and mouthing your horse again; this is when you have to opportunity to create a relaxed jaw if you use soft hands on those reins and your word commands. Start classical style work-in-hand, firstly using a soft cavesson, lunge rein and a long whip. Later with the snaffle bridle, where the handler holds the leading rein about 8 inches from the bit exactly as one would when riding, the other hand holds the 'outside' rein plus a longish dressage whip held like a fencing foil. The whip acts as, and where, your leg will touch later when riding. Begin this work-in-hand by doing straight lines and circles and then only when this is fully

WORK ON both sides of your HORSE EQUALLY - this simple rule IS FOREVER!

04 T R A I N I N G

THE FOUR TO FIVE YEAR OLD

ow your horse is becoming more fully developed physically (but not completed until around 7-8 years of age) you can begin safely lunging over small jumps and/or gymnastic grid work runs.

established you can begin to ask for the first 'official' lateral steps (and don't say I didn't warn you if you skip that first part about going straight first). Remember to reward the very first two to three steps by going straight again or stopping and giving a big pat and keep in mind two good steps can eventually lead to hundreds of good steps, so always reward earlier than you might like to. It's at this stage where the very important smaller circle work-in-hand begins. THE VOLTE IS A CIRCLE TRADITIONALLY 6 METRES IN DIAMETER

t is from this small circle work where the horse is moved along in an even line of curvature. His front and left hind feet, and front and hind right feet traverse equally along each side of that imaginary line. Where the bend is utilised for the shoulder-in and the half pass (and all their derivative's of many names) is first accomplished. Then the horse moves laterally forwards and towards or away from the direction of bend thus creating either shoulder-in or half-pass. This is the beginning of the lateral bend. Especially when combined with the ability to lengthen or shorten the horse - refer to longitudinal balance in the main article (p10). The main aim is to load the hindquarters of the horse by balanced displacement of a laterally 'pushing' hind leg during the lateral work. The further the hind leg reaches under to push the horse's whole mass, the more engagement of the hindquarters results. Trotting over poles may commence when placed by their correct distance between each. Encourage the horse to use his energy to 'lift' in more suspension, rather than cover more ground. The horse begins to further displace and use his hindquarters. The back of the horse will then be lifted by the thoracic (under the belly area) muscles combined with the added bending and lifting action of the joints in the hind legs (think of your horse trotting through knee-deep water to envision this 'lift'and 'suspension'). This is where some degree of natural collection often begins within the trot poles, and muscle over the back will build further strength.

24 Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

Work on further developing lateral work-in-hand and while describing smaller circles for stretch and contraction of muscles. Begin to combine the longitudinal and lateral balance utilising more bend and angle in the lateral work further. This now becomes true and balanced gymnastically based work where individual muscle groups can be worked with. The aim being the strengthening weakness's while negating your horse's natural asymmetry to its maximum potential for symmetry. Then, when your horse seems ready mentally, physically and emotionally and he is strong, balanced and fit, and he understands what you ask, he is ready to be backed. If you spend the time to fully develop the basics from the ground, in-hand and the ideas mentioned above, your horse will be extremely confident and well learned in most everything you will want to do initially when you first get in that saddle. In addition, his back will be strong and well developed to more easily carry a rider's weight. Horses are not naturally nor biomechanically built for carrying us. Also, by consolidating the basic training of the above-mentioned groundwork skills during those precious early years, you will have instilled clear communication between you and your horse which will enable you to go between ridden work, workin-hand and lunging work during the rest of your training days with your best equine friend. This is the way of the old masters who have proven over time their methods and patience produced horses that lived long healthy and productive lives. I am sure this is exactly what you want for your horse. Sadly this is vastly different to that which we often see today with so many horses started under saddle too young, pushed too soon, often with many 'gadgets' to create shortcuts along the way. These horses are breaking down physically and mentally at an age where they should instead be just beginning another decade of happy and willing servitude with their human partner. So get out there, work your horse inhand, and have some fun along the way. IN THIS CASE, IT IS ' THE JOURNEY THAT COUNTS'.

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Learn from a world leading equine photographer with photographic locations and horses you could only dream of. This is an opportunity to grow your portfolio to a whole new level!

Photographic Workshop Held in

Central West NSW

18TH OCT - 21ST OCT '18 Workshops are conducted for the main purpose of coaching, sharing knowledge and gaining experience. Students develop their photography skills and practical knowledge about working with horse models during photo sessions, theoretical lecture and classes about photo processing.

Workshops are focused on quality shared knowledge with hands-on training. Providing examples and enough time to this this into practice . Workshops provide at least 6 different types of photos to study from, including some from those listed below: • Horses in motion

• Sessions to show how to work with horses where we can’t let them loose

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For more information please contact Danielle Skerman 0404 84 3636 editor@baroquehorse.com.au

AUTHOR: JULIA KOHL PHOTOS: Daniela Derler

T R A I N I N G

JULIA KOHL r e s e n

creative DRESSAGE –

–

SCHOOLING improving Your Horse’s Ability to Collect W ITH

Unique Exercises Although simple gymnasticizing work isn’t necessarily what we think of when we think of dressage, it should be a consistent part of the work we do with our horses to make sure they are fit and able to carry us without incurring injury or damage. An exercise may seem simple but can be adjusted in degree of difficulty and combined with others in an endless number of creative ways. Don’t be afraid to try new things with your horse. New exercises bring a nice change of routine for both of you, and it is rewarding when they help you improve over time. Movements that were once challenging for your horse will become easier for him to perform and he will become more supple and more fun to ride.

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

04 T R A I N I N G

onto the volte, keep a steady contact with the outside rein so the horse does not “fall onto” his inside shoulder. It is important to keep the horse’s inside shoulder “free” in the shoulder-in so that the inside foreleg can cross properly over the outside foreleg as you proceed down the rail. As you ride out of the second volte, ride seamlessly into the next shoulder-in. You may need the use of both reins briefly to prevent the horse from “wandering” toward the inside with his whole body and his haunches leaving the track. To end the shoulder-in at H, use the outside rein to guide the horse’s forehand back onto the track. Weight both seat bones evenly and use equal pressure from both calves at the girth to tell the horse to move straight on ahead. Ride the exercise in both directions. The more experienced horse and rider can try this exercise on the centerline, with one or two voltes, depending on the size of the arena.

Exercise: Volte—Shoulder-In Volte—Shoulder-Out

/4/

WHERE YOU GO

ide in collected trot, tracking right through the short side of the arena by A. In the second corner of the short side, ride a 10-meter volte. Upon exiting the volte, ride directly into shoulder-in on the long side. Maintain the same flexion and lateral bend in the shoulder-in that you achieved in the volte. After a few steps of shoulder-in, ride another volte at E. Again, exit the volte in shoulder-in on the track. End the shoulder-in at H by bringing the horse’s forehand back onto the track and straightening the horse before rounding the corner onto the short side.

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/6/ /7/

WHY YOU DO IT

he voltes in this exercise help position the horse for the shoulderin. This makes it an especially beneficial one for horses that are not very experienced with shoulder-in. The short stretches of shoulder-in are a “friendly” introduction for the inexperienced horse or rider. Just as the horse may begin to waver in the angle of the shoulder-in, the rider can turn onto another volte and reestablish the correct flexion and lateral bend. HERE’S HOW

/1/

Begin in collected trot on the right rein. As you pass A on the short side of the arena, prepare to ride a volte, and begin a 10-meter volte in the second corner.  Exit the volte on the long side at K and ride right into shoulder-in. Maintain the flexion and bend that you achieved in the volte—ride almost as if you are about to ride onto another volte. Weight your inside (right) seat bone more than the outside (left), but not so much as to push the horse’s hindquarters to the outside. Your inside leg is positioned at the girth and maintains the horse’s forward movement as well as the bend through his

/2/

rib cage. Your outside leg stays back behind the girth, as it was in the volte, and helps keep the bend and the forward movement, while also preventing the haunches from swinging out. (It is not uncommon to hear a horse’s hind feet hitting the wall in an indoor arena if his hind end swings out during shoulder-in!) The inside rein should be slightly shortened. It is responsible for the inside flexion and guides the horse’s forehand off the track. Once the horse is positioned in the correct angle in the shoulder-in, the inside rein can be repeatedly momentarily softened—this also tests the horse’s balance and self-carriage. The outside rein controls the degree to which the horse’s neck comes to the inside and acts like a barrier for the horse’s outside shoulder, since that shoulder is no longer on the track against the wall or fence. At E on the long side, ride into another 10-meter volte while maintaining the horse’s bend from nose to tail. Increase the use of your outside seat bone to keep the horse’s hindquarters straight behind his forehand on the volte. If needed, ride with increased energy on the volte. Up until the moment you turn

/3/

positioning of the forward-sideways driving leg aid in the leg-yield). Instead, increase the use of your outside rein to bring the horse’s shoulders closer to the track. Use your outside leg to prevent the haunches from “falling out.” It is helpful to ride this exercise in the walk while correcting this problem.

Exercise: Volte—Shoulder-In Volte—Haunches-In WHERE YOU GO

egin in collected trot and when you reach the second corner of the short side by A, ride a 10-meter volte. After the volte, ride directly into shoulder-in at K on the long side. At the middle of the long side (E), ride onto a second volte the same size as the first. After this volte, ride directly into haunches-in on the long side. End haunches-in at H, before the end of the long side.

HAVING PROBLEMS? • Your horse over-bends his neck to the inside and leaves his forelegs on the track. You are likely trying to ride the shoulderin just with the inside rein. Straighten the horse and put him more on the outside rein. Ride on a bending line and practice bending the horse while repeatedly “giving” on the inside rein—all without the horse changing his positioning. Once this goes well, try the shoulder-in again. Do not forget to keep a steady contact with your outside rein! • Your horse brings his forehand too far to the inside. You are pushing the haunches out instead of bringing the shoulders in— or riding a leg-yield! The leg-yield has more angle than the shoulder-in and has flexion, but it doesn’t have lateral bend. Leg-yield is a suppling exercise but not a collecting exercise (see more about using leg-yield in schooling exercises on p. 64). This mistake begins with overuse of the inside rein; the rider often tries to correct this with increased use of her inside leg, usually drawing it back in a misguided effort to increase its effect (the classic

WHY YOU DO IT

ombining these two lateral movements with voltes improves the rider’s coordination and her ability to administer the aids. The horse will gain suppleness and work toward greater flexibility in the shoulders and hind end. The voltes help prepare the horse for the two lateral movements: The beginning of the volte (the curved path you travel as you leave the track and start the volte) requires the same bend and balance as the shoulder-in, while the end of the volte (the curved path you travel as you leave the volte and come back to the track) is the same positioning as the haunches-in. HERE’S HOW

/1/

Begin the exercise the same way as for the last exercise, riding a 10-meter volte in collected trot in the second corner of the short side by A, and then carrying over the same degree of bend and same position into the shoulder-in on the long side. At E in the middle of the long side, ride out of the shoulder-in onto a second 10-meter volte. As the horse’s forehand returns to the track after the volte, do not bring the haunches back onto the track, but rather keep the positioning from the last step of the volte and just continue it on down the long side. Keep your weight shifted slightly more onto your inside (right) seat bone. Use your inside leg at the girth to bend the horse’s body and to maintain the forward leg movement. Your outside (left) leg should be behind the girth to move the haunches sideways. Shorten the inside rein to maintain the flexion while the outside rein limits the flexion, as well as the angle of travel. To end the haunches-in at the end of the long side, straighten the horse’s neck with the outside rein and cease to use your sideways-driving aids. It is important to actively straighten your horse at the end of the long side rather than just letting him “peter out” of the movement by himself. If you are not controlling his position, he may swing his haunches to the inside in the next corner as well, even without your asking for the haunches-in.

/2/ /3/

/4/

/5/

04 T R A I N I N G

stretch your back straight up above your hips; do not lean to the outside during this movement! Use the inside rein to obtain the inside flexion. It can also have a sidewaysguiding effect if needed. End the haunches-in by bringing the hindquarters back onto the line of the circle. Maintain the bend in the horse’s body. Keep enough connection on the outside rein to make sure your horse doesn’t “fall out” through the outside shoulder. When your horse is properly on the outside rein, his shoulders remain moveable, and it should be no problem to move them to the inside directly after the haunches-in in order to start another shoulder-in. This exercise can also be ridden in canter.

Exercise: Shoulder-In to Haunches-In on a Circle

/5/

WHERE YOU GO

ide in trot on a 20-meter circle in the middle of the arena on the right rein. Ride several steps of shoulder-in on the circle and then several steps of haunches-in. Continue to alternate between the two lateral movements while remaining on the circle.

/6/

WHY YOU DO IT

This excerpt from Creative Dressage Schooling by Julia Kohl is reprinted with permission from Trafalgar Square Books. TSB equestrian books and DVDs are available in Australia and New Zealand at www.horsebooks.com.au.

his exercise gymnasticizes your horse and improves his ability to collect. By alternating frequently between the two movements, the horse’s ability to focus increases and he responds more quickly to the aids, which leads to a greater degree of “throughness.” The exercise also improves the coordination and subtlety of the rider’s aids. HERE’S HOW

/1/

As you approach E on the long side in collected trot, prepare to begin a 20-meter circle in the middle of the arena. As you leave the track after E, make use of the horse’s inside flexion on the circle to begin riding a shoulder-in. Use the inside (right) rein to maintain the flexion and to guide the horse’s forehand slightly to the inside. The outside (left) rein ensures that the horse’s outside shoulder does not “fall out, ” returning to the path of the 20-meter circle line or past it. Note, however, that the outside rein cannot be used so strongly as to hinder the flexion and angle needed to perform the shoulder-in movement correctly. Both reins can be used to prevent the horse from coming into the circle, but they must be instantly lightened once the horse comprehends the desired path of travel. In the next shoulder-in it is likely this rein aid will no longer be necessary. During the course of the exercise, the horse should become lighter and lighter on the inside rein. The rider’s inside seat bone should be weighted more

/2/

heavily than the outside. The inside leg drives the horse forward at the girth and the outside leg is positioned behind the girth to keep the haunches from “falling out.” This is especially necessary in this exercise since there isn’t a fence or wall to limit the horse and because the horse is moving on a curved line. After your horse has completed a few steps of correct shoulderin with a steady degree of angle and a soft rein contact, straighten him by bringing the forehand back onto the path of the circle with the outside rein. Keep the same amount of flexion and bend. In the same moment in which the forehand approaches the path of the circle, ask the horse to move his hindquarters to the inside of the circle for the haunches-in. Your outside leg behind the girth begins the haunches-in by encouraging the hind end to move to the inside of the circle. Both legs help keep the horse bent from nose to tail and moving energetically forward. As in the shoulder-in, push your inside seat bone forward. However, it can be helpful as you begin the haunches-in to push the horse’s hindquarters toward the inside with your outside seat bone. Make sure to

/3/ /4/

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AUTHOR: SUSAN KAUFFMANN and CHRISTINA CLINE

E D U C AT I O N

SUSAN KAUFFMANN & CHRISTINA CLINE – p r e s e n t –

CRACK

Control

u n d e r s t a n d i n g What Causes Hoof Cracks How to Prevent Them How to Handle Them When They Do Occur

When it comes to hoof cracks, some are superficial and have no effect on the hoof whatsoever, while others can penetrate all the way through the wall and into the sensitive tissues below, and possibly up into the coronary band, as well. Some cracks will resolve on their own, others need intervention, and some will be permanent, no matter what you do.

ESSENTIA

GRASS CRACKS AND SAND CRACKS

rass cracks are superficial fissures that typically start at the ground and head upward. Sand cracks are the same thing, but they start at the coronet and move downward. Both types of cracks form when the molecular bonds between the outermost layers of tubules get weakened by repeated cycles of exposure to moisture followed by drying, which eventually causes them to split apart. Hoof walls that are already weakened by poor nutrition or other factors will be more likely to present with grass and sand cracks. Grass cracks get their name because the problem is often seen in horses turned out on grass that is wet and dewy in the morning, but dries up later in the day. However, any environment where the feet go through alternating periods of wetness and dryness can lead to grass cracks or sand cracks, even if there is not a blade of grass or speck of sand in sight. For example, horses turned out in muddy paddocks then locked into stalls with dry shavings at night can develop these kinds of cracks, as can horses that are bathed frequently.

The good news is that grass and sand cracks are not generally a problem and should grow out on their own. One mistake people often make when dealing with grass and sand cracks is to believe that the hoof is actually too dry and therefore needs moisturizing. It is important to realize that while the cracks may indeed make the surface of the hoof look dried out, it was too much moisture that started the problem in the first place, so applying anything that adds moisture is only likely to make the problem worse. Hoof dressings can also seal in bacteria and fungi, creating an anaerobic breeding ground that promotes infection and further damage to the hoof. Preventing grass and sand cracks is best accomplished by avoiding exposure to the conditions that cause them. TOE CRACKS

hile toe cracks can appear for many reasons, they are most often due to a combination of mechanical stresses in the toe region paired with compromised laminae that cause a lack of good connection between the wall

THE FIRST STEP IN DEALING WITH A CRACK is figuring out what kind of crack you are looking at. Once you know that, YOU MUST DETERMINE what is causing the crack so that you can address the problem.

he first step in dealing with a crack is figuring out what kind of crack you are looking at. Once you know that, you must determine what is causing the crack so that you can address the problem. Attempting to manage a crack without removing the underlying cause of the crack is likely to be an exercise in frustration. Here are the most common types of hoof cracks.

AL HOOF

E D U C AT I O N

• DORSOPALMAR/PLANTAR IMBALANCE: This common hoof capsule distortion typically manifests as the front part of the foot having more mass than the back, which means you have a long toe and a point of breakover that is too far forward. With every step, the toe on such a foot experiences tremendous levering forces as the rest of the foot tries to roll over the toe to get off the ground. The levering forces weaken the laminar connection and put tensile stress on the bonds holding the tubules together—a double whammy of crack-causing potential. • TOE FLARES: Dorsopalmar/plantar imbalance and problems like laminitis can lead to toe flares, which are a sign that

and the coffin bone. The reason these two factors so often work in tandem is that poorly connected walls are more vulnerable to mechanical stresses, but mechanical stresses can also weaken the laminar connection. So, whichever one happens first, it opens the door for the other one to follow. Mechanical stresses on the toe may include anything that pulls, pushes, twists, levers, or loads the wall horn. These stresses are not normally a problem for a healthy foot, but they can easily start or worsen a toe crack when the toe wall is already set up to fail for any of the following reasons:

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PHOTOS the toe wall is not well connected and is being stretched and bent. If toe flares go unchecked, cracking is likely to follow.

damaged by laminitis, white line disease, metabolic problems, inappropriate diet, and mechanical stresses.

• MEDIAL-LATERAL IMBALANCE: This side-to-side imbalance exerts shearing forces on the toe when the hoof lands

• TOE-FIRST LANDING: Pain in the back of the foot can cause a horse to land toe first in an attempt to protect the painful area. 6

Unfortunately, toe-first landing interferes with the biomechanics of the entire limb and subjects the toe to an unnatural amount of concussion, which can lead to toe cracks. • TOE LOADING: A horse that stands with his toes loaded more than his heels due to pain or an issue like a club foot will also be more prone to toe cracks. Horses that travel heavy on the forehand will also tend to stress their toes. • OVERGROWN WALLS: Walls that have grown well past the level of the live sole tend to crack, split, and otherwise fall apart. 5 unevenly, with one side of the hoof being pushed up upon impact while the other is still descending. It can also cause tensile stress if one side of the hoof flexes outward more than the other. • COMPROMISED LAMINAR CONNECTION: The connection between the toe wall and the coffin bone can be

• PRESENCE OF A CRENA: A crena is a notch in the center solar margin of the coffin bone, which can sometimes result in a corresponding disruption in the sole-wall juncture that you can see on the bottom of the foot at the center of the toe. This disrupted area gets filled with material that is not as strongly organized as normal material and can sometimes make the hoof wall more prone to cracking.

/1 / E xcessive loading of the toe, like you see in this club foot, can cause cracks as well as chipping and other kinds of damage to the hoof wall.  Photo by R.F. Redden, DVM / 2/ T here are two different kinds of superficial cracks on this hoof. The short cracks in the lower part of the wall (yellow arrows) are grass cracks, but they may have started due to poor nutrition. The cracks that run the entire height of the wall (red arrows) are the result of overgrown, flared walls that are now being managed, but it will take some time for the cracks to grow out.  Photo by Christina Cline /3/B efore it was trimmed, this toe was even more flared than it is in this picture. The toe wall was dishing from the stress of the leverage caused by the flared wall pushing against the ground with every step, and cracks followed. Note the crack and bruising in the quarter as well (yellow arrow), a reminder that long toes stress the entire foot.  Photo by Schools of Barehoof Strategy /4/ The connection between the wall and the coffin bone of this foot was weakened by both white line disease and the mechanical stresses that result from flaring. When the wall simply couldn’t take any more, it cracked and split. Fortunately, a good hoofcare professional was able to get rid of both issues, and the foot grew out to be perfectly fine.  Photo by Christina Cline /5 / T he mechanical forces the hoof regularly encounters do not typically cause problems for a healthy, well-balanced foot, but they can wreak havoc when the foot is already compromised.  Photo by Susan Kauffmann /6 /  Photo by April Raine

E D U C AT I O N

ance, overgrown (“jammed”) quarters, injury, or a conformational defect. They can also result from shoes that are too short or too long, injury to the coronet, or damage to the coffin bone. Horses with long-toe/underrun-heel syndrome are quite susceptible to quarter cracks, as their weak heels can’t dissipate impact forces the way they are supposed to, transferring excessive concussion to the quarters. One theory about quarter cracks proposes that they don’t really start out as cracks at all, but rather as a defect in the hoof wall produced from damage to the coronet. CRACKS DUE TO ABSCESSES (AKA “BLOWOUTS”)

PHOTOS /7 / Serious injuries to the coronet can sometimes affect the growth of the hoof wall permanently, causing a perpetual crack, as seen here. Note the broad scar above the crack on this foot, indicating that the area once sustained a substantial amount of damage.  Photo by Christina Cline /8 / This horse’s overgrown, tall hooves with their jammed (pushing upward) quarters caused this deep, bleeding crack to open up in the coronet and work its way down.  Photo by www.hoofhelponline.com /9 / C racks like this that form when an abscess pops out at the coronet usually just grow down and disappear with no permanent harm to the hoof wall.  Photo by Christina Cline /10 / W hile this horse’s feet are now in the process of being rehabilitated, they had previously been allowed to develop long toes, underrun heels, and flaring, all of which contributed to the formation of this quarter crack.  Photo by www.hoofhelponline.com

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7 QUARTER CRACKS

hen an abscess forms under the hoof wall, the pus and exudate (fluid containing protein and cellular 8

uarter cracks, as their name implies, occur in the quarters of the hooves. They generally start at the coronet and spread downward, penetrating through the full thickness of the wall and into the tissues under the wall. They can easily become inflamed 9

and infected, and they are often quite painful. Because quarter cracks occur near the heels, they are affected by the continual flexing of the heel region, which leads to instability and makes them potentially difficult to manage. Quarter cracks are most often caused by uneven loading of the foot, whether that is due to medial-lateral imbalance, dorsopalmar/plantar imbal-

debris) usually can’t break through the hard, dense wall material to drain. But, that yucky gunk has to go somewhere, so it often ends up migrating upward until it “pops out” at the much softer material of the coronet, or backward where it will emerge in the pliable heel area. The good news is that the horse will generally feel much better when this happens. The bad news is that the 10

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E D U C AT I O N

essential hoof hoof wall is likely to develop a hole or crack at the spot where the abscess emerged due to a temporary disruption of the coronary corium. The cracks that form in this way are often referred to as “blowouts.” But, here is some more good news: the cracks caused by abscesses usually cause no problems for the horse. They will simply grow down as the hoof grows and disappear on their own. It is possible for damage to the coronary corium to be permanent, creating a defect in the wall that most often shows up as a vertical groove growing down the entire length of the wall, but this is not typical when the problem is a simple abscess. CRACKS DUE TO INJURY

he hoof wall, heels, and coronet can all end up with cracks due to injury. Sometimes a horse will hit a hoof against something hard enough to cause a wall to crack, or another horse may kick or step on him. A coronet injury can happen from an impact as well, but the coronet may also be damaged by getting a foot getting caught in a fence or hooked over a wire. The disruption to the coronet can then cause the hoof wall in that area to grow in a disorganized manner, leading to a crack. If a crack results from a minor injury, it is likely to heal just fine and grow out without issue. However, a more serious injury can result in a crack that is difficult to get rid of. Any injury that causes substantial damage to the hoof wall or coronet should be looked at by a vet because preventing infection and stabilizing the foot quickly may help the foot mend better, thus preventing a crack from becoming a permanent feature.

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TREATING AND PREVENTING CRACKS

he most appropriate treatment for a crack is going to depend on its location, severity, and cause. Any contributing disease condition, injury, nutritional problem, or hoof imbalance will need to be addressed if possible, and the mechanical forces working to cause or perpetuate the crack will need to be relieved. In most mild to moderate cases, and even some pretty bad ones, the latter can be accomplished by getting the foot balanced, removing any overgrown wall, and putting a strong bevel on the cracked wall area so that it is free from ground contact forces. Doing this generally negates the need for additional stabilization, though some hoof-care providers prefer to add mechanical stabilization in the form of a shoe or hoof cast. When a crack is severe, it may require more intensive treatment best performed by a veterinarian or very qualified farrier. They may use a variety of techniques including stainless steel lacing, debridement of infected areas, and patching with special materials. Chronic cracks—the ones that seem to never want to go away or that disappear for a while but then come back— may or may not be truly permanent. Sometimes, what is a chronic crack in one hoof-care provider’s hands can be successfully grown out by another who uses different methods. If your horse has a crack that is an ongoing problem, it may be worth talking to another hoof-care provider. Preventing cracks from happening in the first place is always better than trying to fix them after the fact. Make sure that your horse doesn’t suffer from “lack of farrier disease, ” as overgrown neglected feet are highly vulnerable

to cracks. But, while regular hoof care is one of the most important crackprevention strategies, just having the feet tended regularly doesn’t necessarily mean they are being tended well. You need to stay on top of the quality of work being done by your provider, as so many cracks are caused by manmade hoof imbalances. Also take a look at your horse’s diet to see if what is going into his mouth could be setting his feet up to crack. Think about potential hazards like excessive moisture and exposure to repeated cycles of wet and dry. Study how your horse moves and stands, as there could be imbalances or soreness somewhere else in the body that are causing uneven loading that could lead to hoof cracks. One thing you don’t need to worry about is a dry environment causing the foot to crack. The hoof gets all the moisture it needs from the fluid circulating within the hoof, and the moisture in the inner and middle layers of the hoof wall—the layers that are supposed to be moist—simply has no way to exit the foot. That means that as long as there is still blood circulating through your horse’s body, it will produce enough moisture for his feet, and that moisture cannot be “sucked out, ” even if your horse lives in the desert. In fact, it is the damage the hoof sustains during the wet season that actually causes the foot to crack once it fully dries out.  This excerpt from The Essential Hoof Book by Susan Kauffmann and Christina Cline is reprinted with permission from Trafalgar Square Books. TSB equestrian books and DVDs are available in Australia and New Zealand at www.horsebooks.com.au.

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04 T R A I N I N G

DRESSAGE COMPEITION

Tips By Gale Bransford

{1}

Learn your test well ahead. There are various ways of remembering the sequence and a few ways that may help you are: • Draw a miniature, lettered arena with chalk on your concrete garage/verandah floor (little paper letters placed on the carpet will do the trick also). With your test paper in hand, walk/trot/canter/ halt etc., the test on foot (3-dimensional learning). • Use pen & paper to draw each section of the test on consecutive, identical 'to scale' arenas. Graph paper is useful (correct geometry).

{2}

Prepare your entry at trot in a circle outside the arena entry, in the direction of the 'soft' side of your horse for two reasons: • To develop the best quality trot before entry. • So when you enter and straighten towards the centre line your horse is more likely to remain straight (It's the opposite for canter entry).

{3}

Upon entry, look up to C, then draw a straight line in the sand/grass (in your mind) directly towards yourself from C, then ride that line towards C to X. Keeping the C marker between your horse's ears (focus ahead). • Slightly widen the distance between your hands by opening your shoulders. (Helps not to pull left or right rein.) • Ride forward with purpose and energy; this will help you to stay straight (impulsion).

42 Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

{4} {5} {6} {7} {8}

Halt at X: Remember its forward to halt from trot and canter. (Essential to obtain that coveted square halt.) During the Test: If you happen to have an awkward moment, do not dwell on it. You will only receive a low mark for that particular portion of the Test. Instead, immediately begin to prepare your horse for the next movement (preparation is important). There is no need to feel nervous! Handy Hints: •

Instead, focus on helping your horse.

•

Remember, you are basically simply testing your accuracy within your general level of training.

Focus on helping your horse with appropriate preparation for each movement in the test. (Hint: In the corners, there is a sweet spot that can enable you to rebalance your horse.) To ride a balanced transition late/early is a far better training ethic, rather than hastily unbalancing your horse due to incorrect timing on your part. Above all else, smile, breathe and enjoy the experience and privilege of having a day out with your horse.

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03 O F

I N T E R E S T

AUTHOR: PATTY TAYLOR

winter preparing your

HORSE for the

Winter TOPICS: 1/ Seven Winter Tips 2/ Equine Asthma 3/ Equine Bedding 4/ Rugging 5/ Horse Colds 6/ Winter Hair Cuts

PHOTO: KATARZYNA OKRZESIK–MIKOŁAJEK

03 O F

I N T E R E S T

{ 02}

WATER// A horse needs extra hydration in winter as this is mainly due to feeds like hay containing less moisture in winter. Therefore, it is vital that they have access to fresh, clean and unfrozen water at all times. Did you know a horse won’t eat if they are thirsty? So poor water consumption can lead to health issues. Be diligent and regularly check the water trough to remove any icy water. Rubber buckets are easier to knock out the ice than the plastic ones. Why not spoil your horse and try to keep the water slightly warmer too. 

{ 03}

EXERCISE// It is important not to stop exercising just because it is winter. Make sure your horse’s muscles are properly warmed up before you go off on a ride. A good routine is essential – a groom and a walk around before you saddle up and once saddled warm up and stretch. Why not consider a lunge if not riding to help maintain your horse’s fitness too. This will help prevent muscles injuries and vet bills! 

{1}

SEVEN winter TIPS

As you will have to make changes to your daily horse care during the winter months we thought some reminder tips might help you:

{ 01}

FEEDING// With the cold, like ourselves, horses burn more calories in the winter months, so you will need to increase your feeding rations over winter. In colder climates, consider increasing their feed in autumn for a bit of extra weight to prepare them for winter. Hay is a good option as is an excellent source of calories, and the process of digesting the fibre helps in warming the horse. 

Stable photos: Cátia Castro/Arrábida Horse Sport Center arrabidahorsesc.pt

Photo: katarzyna Okrzesik–Mikołajek

take care of the

HOOVES

{ 04}

STABLING/SHELTER// Most horses prefer being outside even in winter, and this is a healthier option for them too. It is also best to have some form of shelter for them to escape from the winter elements. Having an open shelter that horses can come and go at their own choice is a good option. An alternative is to put your horse out during the day and stable only at night but ensure the stable is well ventilated.

{05}

RUGGING// Just because you are cold doesn’t need to mean your horse is and you need to rush out and cover him in blankets. Overheating a horse can lead to dehydration and many health problems. If you do rug your horse ensure that it is a well-fitted one that doesn’t rub or let in water. See our rugging article. 

{2} equine

asthma

{ 06}

GROOMING// Regardless of the season, it is good practice to groom your horse regularly. Many winter skin conditions are caused by a dirty coat in which bacteria and fungi infections grow. This way you can also keep a check on any problems that may arise. 

{ 07}

HOOF CARE// The hoof still grows over winter, and you will still need to trim their feet in the winter months, and trimmed hooves will hold less snow. Mud and manure packed hooves are the ideal environments for thrush so check your horse’s feet daily. 

Respiratory problems can be quite debilitating, and anyone who has asthma can tell you this and our horses can also suffer from similar respiratory issues. Equine Asthma is similar to human asthma.

enerally, this is referred to as Inflammatory Airway Disease (IAD) or Recurrent Airway Obstruction

03 O F

I N T E R E S T

{3} equine

bedding

What are your options?

(ROA). What is the difference? IAD typically affects young horses and ROA for older horses. Younger horses with IAD are normal at rest but will cough and have an intolerance to exercise, and the older horses with ROA commonly have a chronic cough and a nasal discharge and also have difficulty with exercise and breathing. EQUINE ASTHMA SYMPTOMS: • Difficulty in breathing • Wheezing • Chronic coughing • Nasal discharge • Weight loss • Intolerance to exercise

CAUSES: • An inflamed obstructed airway • A genetic predisposition • Seasonal allergies • Respiratory tract infections • Food allergies • Weather extremes • Fungal spores in the hay and bedding (environmental pollutants). DIAGNOSIS/TREATMENTS: It is always best not to self-diagnose and contact your vet to confirm that your horse

does have equine asthma. There are many tests, and one way is to do an endoscopy of the upper airway and trachea usually reveal signs of inflammation and accumulation of mucus. Equine asthma is not contagious and depending on the severity can be managed through dietary, and their exposure to dust and moulds. Your vet may recommend anti-inflammatory corticosteroids to reduce inflammation or bronchodilators to increase the diameter of the small airways or Omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil) for additional anti-inflammatory properties. The management of this chronic lung inflammatory disease does involve dedication on the part of the horse owner.

With winter sneaking up, many have to resort to stabling their horses to shelter them from the cold weather, so now is a perfect time to look at what is the best bedding to use. What are the factors you need to take into account? Consideration should be to the horse’s well-being, comfort and what is best cushioning to put down between the flooring and their hooves. Standing on hard surfaces for an extended period will cause fatigue so also consider how long your horse will be stabled.

rom the health aspects, the bedding needs to be warm, absorbent, dust and mould free. Other considerations are cost-effectiveness, ease of cleaning and the ease of handling. What about

the stable itself? How is its ventilation? One of the major causes of respiratory problems in horses especially stabled horses is their bedding. There are many types of bedding but what is the best? Each has their advantages and drawbacks. RUBBER STALL MATS advantages • Provides a healthy surface for the horse to stand on • A cushioning effect reduces fatigue • Easy to clean as can be hosed down • A non-slip base • Could use without other bedding

take care of the

BEDDING

disadvantages • The initial investment but will pay for themselves in the long run • Could be colder in the winter

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take care of the

BEDDING

STRAW/HAY advantages • Economical • Provides insulation and cushioning • Good garden manure • Aesthetically pleasing disadvantages • Does not absorb urine and ammonia well • Maybe dusty or mouldy • Some horses will eat their bedding which may be contaminated with urine or droppings • Harder to clean • Bulky to store • Some horses are allergic CHOPPED STRAW advantages • The dust has been extracted • Non-palatable • Bales are easy to handle and store disadvantages • More expensive than straw • Not readily available SAWDUST/SHAVINGS advantages • Easily sourced • A pleasant odour of the pine • Less dusty than straw/hay • Non-palatable • Easy to clean • Bales are easy to handle and store disadvantages • May contain fine particles that could

irritate the respiratory tract • They aren’t very absorbent • Must be stored dry • Wet sawdust clings to the coat • Could have other debris – best to purchase only animal sawdust • Possible fire hazard WOOD PELLETS advantages • Low in dust • Easy to transport as sold by the bag • Easy to store • Absorbent disadvantages • Harder to clean • Not as absorbent in cold climates SHREDDED PAPER advantages • Absorbent • Dust and foreign object-free • Good compost • Non-palatable • Produces a warm bed • Bales are easy to hand and stored disadvantages • Not widely available • Easily blown around • Can become soggy • Need a lot of bales initially PEAT MOSS advantages • Absorbent • Soft bedding

• Good compost disadvantages • Could be dusty • More expensive than other options HEMP/FLAX advantages • More absorbent than shavings • Dust free • Non-palatable • Easy to clean • Good compost • Bales easy to handle and store disadvantages • More expensive initially Whatever bedding you chose it is essential to understand what is the best product for your horse in the long run. You will also have to consider how you dispose of the used product, storage and cleaning, so all of these factors also need to be taken into account when selecting bedding.

03 O F

I N T E R E S T

A HORSE’S WINTER COAT WORKS TO INSULATE THEM FROM THE COLD.

We may touch them and think they are cold when in fact they are quite warm.

{4}

TO RUG or not to rug?

DO YOU NEED TO RUG IN WINTER?

HOW DOES A HORSE KEEP WARM?

inter can be a difficult time to know what to do with rugging as we tend to feel cold, so we assume our horses are cold too, but we don’t have a fur coat growing over our skin. You need to take in other factors when deciding whether your horse needs a rug.

healthy horse conditioned to the outdoors adjusts to the temperate changes and grows a winter coat. Horses in nature will put on weight before winter and have the extra fat to burn/shiver off. Feed like hay/roughage can keep a horse warm as it releases heat as it is digested and many horses will eat more

take care of the

BLANKET

Temperature

Stable/Clipped

Stabled/Unclipped

Outside (Unclipped)

15º C and Warmer

Zero Fill

Nothing

10ºC to15ºC

Light weight 100 g/zero fill

Nothing to zero fill

Nothing

5ºC to 10ºC

Medium weight 250 g

Light weight 150 g

Nothing to light weight 100 g

0ºC to 4ºC

Heavy weight 300 g

Medium weight 200 g

Nothing or light-medium weight 150 g–200 g

0ºC to -10ºC

Heavy weight 300 g–400 g

Medium weight 200 g–300 g

Light-medium weight 150 g–300 g

Below -10ºC

Heavy weight 300 g–500 g + neck cover

Medium-heavy weight 300 g-400 g + neck cover

Heavy weight 300 g–500 g + neck cover

https://thegroomslist.co.uk/a-basic-guide-to-rugging-horses/ source: www.thegroomslist.co.uk

in winter to generate this heat. You will also see your horse cantering around the paddock for no reason, but really they are doing this to keep warm, and when they have heated themselves up they will go back to grazing again. You may see your horse shiver for a short while and think they are cold but this can be a perfectly normal way to for them to warm up. On a cold rainy day, a horse will shiver more than any other weather

02 H E A LT H

conditions, and this can be ok for normal healthy horses. Of course, shelter in these times is always best for them to dry off and warm up. I am always surprised though when I think they should be in the shelter and they are standing out in the middle of the rain, this only goes to prove that we don’t always know what is best for them. We have to be careful that we don’t overdo our kindness. A horse’s winter coat works to insulate them from the cold. We may touch them and think they are cold when in fact they are quite warm. They can have snow or icicles hanging off them and be perfectly warm underneath. Many say you can also tell by the warmth of the horse’s ears or legs, but this isn’t a real indication. WHY THEN USE A BLANKET/RUG?

ome horses just don’t produce a good winter coat, or your horse could be clipped, or your horse is old and not able to warm themselves so you should then consider a blanket. But the next question is how many rugs to you need and what type of rugs? Once again there is not one single answer, and it depends on the horse and the weather conditions. A single rug could be enough, but if your horse feels cold when you slip your hand under the rug and feel the wither, you may need a heavier one. A good well-fitted rug can help to maintain a horse’s condition in the cold and wet weather rather than shivering off their fat. A horse’s coat stands up and traps the air making it warm for them. A rug flattens these hairs and reduced the horse’s movement without providing any real warmness, so you need a heavy enough blanket to provide true warmth. Once you start using a rug, you have to continue to keep this up as the horse will become conditioned to wearing it. It is good to keep a temperature gauge outside so you can monitor the weather conditions yourself – this is only a rough guide, and you need to assess your horse individually. 

{5} CAN a horse

get a cold?

As winter can be bitterly cold with wind, rain and even snow in some parts, we wanted to look at how a horse’s immune system can be comprised due to the stress of the cold weather and other conditions. One of the most common infectious diseases in horses is respiratory infections.

cold is known as a URT (upper respiratory tract) infection, and it is essential to understand what type of infection your horse has as this will make it easier to treat. Typically,

common question Can a horse catch a cold from not being rugged?

There is no straight yes or no answer to this as there is a lot of factors that dictate the answer. If a horse has a weak or compromised immune system, thin or clipped coat and in poor body condition then yes it can. Just like us as humans there are many factors to it. Horses use energy to produce heat, so if they are not adequately fed and rugged they will use all of their energy resources to keep themselves warm, this can compromise their health as well as their willingness and ability to work and perform during the colder months. So it is important to make sure they have an adequate amount of energy during winter (you may need to increase energy/protein in their diet, by feeding more lucerne hay or feeds such as speedi-beet or fibrebeet) and rug accordingly.

also can give butazolidine (bute) to help reduce the aches from the flu making the horse feel better and more inclined to eat and drink. An example of a bacterial virus is Strangles and it is highly contagious. Symptoms include – a moist cough, loss of appetite, clear nasal discharge that becomes yellow, difficulty in breathing and swelling of submandibular lymph

a URT comes in two major groups viral or bacterial, but it can also be fungal or parasitic. The influenza virus tends to cause more of a cough while the bacterial virus causes more of a snotty nose, but there is a lot of overlap in symptoms, and the two can be hard to differentiate clinically. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BACTERIAL VS VIRAL URT INFECTIONS?

virus has no specific cure and generally gets better with good nursing care – rest and hydration. You

take care of the

REST

nodes (these sit between the salivary glands under the tongue and the lower jaw bone) that rupture and a fever. Strangles can be treated with penicillin to lessen the severity and help the horse get better, but bute has less effect on bringing down this fever. The big question is how do you know if your horse has a cold/stable virus? SYMPTOMS: The symptoms are similar to what we have ourselves with the ‘common cold’. • Depression/lethargy • A wheeze or a cough • Poor appetite • Clear to white nasal discharge – if it turns green or yellow means a secondary infection has developed and best to seek the advice from your vet • Not wanting to exercise • A fever – 39 degrees plus • Swollen lymph nodes under the jaw • Oedema (fluid swelling) • A clear eye discharge SOME OF THE COMMON CAUSES: • Stress (especially in young foals) • Foals and older horses have weaker

I N T E R E S T

t takes about 21 days for the respiratory tract to regenerate after the infection, so therefore a horse could need as long as two to three weeks. Some say you need to rest a horse for one week for each day of fever. Of course, if you are unsure talk to your vet. HOW TO MANAGE: • Rest – stop all exercise and when the horse recovers re-introduce only light activity for 3 to 4 days

HOW TO PREVENT: • Talk to your vet about what vaccination they recommend • Supplements that improve immune system • Temperature extremes – e.g. by keeping a horse warm after exercise. • Hay/Lucern helps your horses generate heat in their body • Pre-warm up exercises • Keep your horse warm in cold weather • Clean bedding

{6}

Photo and clipping by Mandy Smith

HOW LONG SHOULD YOU REST YOUR HORSE?

• Hydration – plenty of water and can encourage by adding a salt lick to their stable or paddock • Monitor your horse’s temperature daily – normal horse temperature is 36.5°C to 38.5°C • Ensure the horse has a warm rug and shelter • Isolate your horse from other horses • Dampen all feed, including the hay – the food will be less likely to irritate a sore throat and encourage eating • Feed on the floor • You may need antibiotics, and this is only available from your vet

Photo and clipping by Mandy Smith

immune systems and can be more susceptible to an infection in the lungs • Contact with other horses • From contaminated water buckets and feed troughs • Inhaling cold air without adequate pre-exercise warm-up • Moulds and dust in bedding

winter

clips

Photo Wylam Young

O F

take care of the

HAIRS

Allisa Batstone photography

• The horse itself – feels the cold or sweats? • The winter environment in your area? • How much do you work your horse? • How much do you want to spend on rugs? • How much time are you able to dedicate to cleaning and keeping them warm? • Is the horse in full work during winter?

First, let’s understand the skin and coat of a horse.

Nature intended for a horse to have a woolly coat in winter to protect them but some breeds don’t always produce the best winter coat to shield them. So do you clip or not in winter?

A HORSE MUST BE CLEAN BEFORE YOU CLIP THEREFORE a good bath is always the best option.

Use a GOOD QUALITY horse shampoo and WARM WATER and SCRAPE AWAY AS MUCH EXCESS WATER AS POSSIBLE. Rub briskly with a towel to encourage quicker drying.

here is not a straight answer for this as this will depend on many things, for instance:

• Is the horse outside or in a stable? • Stabled only at night?

guide

03 O F

I N T E R E S T

type of clips

/1/ Belly clip / 2 / Blanket clip / 3 / Hunter clip / 4 / Full clip / 5 / High trace clip / 6 /Low trace clip / 7 / Irish clip 3

7 types of clips The Skin: Is their largest visible organ and is approximately a centimetre thick. The skin is made up of the epidermis (the outer dried cellular layer) and the dermis (the live portion of the skin). The Coat: Hair grows from the follicles that originate deep in the dermis lay and pass through the epidermis to the skin surface. Two layers of hairs make up the coat – the inner (primary) and the outer (secondary), and each layer has a different amount of hairs per square inch. Inner = 800 to 1,200 hairs and outer = 1,200 to 2,000 hairs. The hair is moisturised by the sebaceous glands that connected to the hair follicle producing a lubricating oil called sebum. The hair grows longer in winter for added insulation, and the horse’s coat is renewed annually. Why would you clip in winter? If you are working or competing on your horse, it does become difficult

to dry them after a workout if they have a winter coat. They will also sweat more with a winter coat while exercising plus winter coats take more time to look after when grooming. A clipped horse also looks aesthetically better and is this is important when in competition. BEFORE CLIPPING

horse must be clean before you clip therefore a good bath is always the best option. Use a good quality horse shampoo and warm water and scrape away as much excess water as possible. Rub briskly with a towel to encourage quicker drying. Clipping will always depend on what the owner sees best for their horse, and there is no rule to follow but always make sure your horse is comfortable and warm throughout the winter season. 

TYPE OF CLIPS MEDIUM to HEAVY work • FULL CLIP – all hair is removed including legs, head and ears. • HUNTER CLIP – all hair is removed excluding the legs MEDIUM work • BLANKET CLIP – hair is left on the face, legs and blanket area • CHASER CLIP – hair is left on the neck, blanket area and legs LIGHT to MEDIUM work •T RACE CLIP – the hair is removed from the underside of the belly and chest and neck • IRISH CLIP – the hair is clipped from the neck and behind the elbows LIGHT work • BIB CLIP – the hair is removed from the front of the neck and chest

guide

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H E A LT H

–

P R E S E N T S

–

MUCH

Feed DO I

Understanding the natural position that horses have in the complex animal kingdom helps us enter into a unique partnership with an animal of prey with humans as potential predators. Horses are in-between fully domesticated ‘pets’ like dogs and cats that live in our homes, yet they are unlike agricultural animals kept for consumption and maintained at arm’s length. Horses offer a glimpse into the wild world, yet are curious and willing enough to allow us to train and tame them. Meeting your horse’s daily dietary needs is actually very simple. First, rate the horse's body condition, then work out their estimated weight. Reaching their ideal weight/ body condition is then a matter of either increasing base feed volumes or continue feeding at

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

daily recommended feed rates until the ideal condition is met. MEASURING BODY CONDITION The body condition of a horse is usually measured simply by visual observation. Too skinny- Horses with toplines that have sunken in around the withers, protruding backbone and dished in around the hip bones and hindquarters. Ribs visible, to touch the feel like the

knuckles on the back of your hand. Too fat- Horses with a sunken backbone and crested neck & ribs hard to feel. Ideally, you are seeking a body condition score of 3 (good). The ribs likely not visible, the pelvis will be covered with both muscle and fat. They should be rounded at the withers (unless genetically overly prominent wither bone) back should be flat - no bone protruding or sunken. The ribs should feel slightly padded to touch.

Mindfulness Hair in for Horses

a Bucket

•

Girth of 190cm (square this) =36100

supplement to just a few base feeds that are low gI (sustainable energy) and low NSC - sugars (safe for all horses). Choose science-backed ingredients such as lupins, beet-pulp, copra & lucerne chaff & lucerne hay. (READ http://www.thenudehorse.com.au/ base-feeds.html)

•

Then 36100 x 125cm (length) = 4512500

MAKING THE BASE FEED

•

Then 4512500 ÷11000 = 410kg.

•

This is an estimate only and could be 50±kg.

CALCULATE ESTIMATED BODY WEIGHT •

[Girth (cm2 ) × length (cm)] ÷ 11 000 = Weight

FOR EXAMPLE:

MAINTENANCE DAILY FEED REQUIREMENTS Formula: Multiply 1.7 x estimated horses weight then divide by 100. Example 1.7 x 410 (kg)= 697, so 697/100 is 6.9kg. Meaning you need to provide 6.9 kg of dry weight feed daily to a horse weighing 410kg. Hay/grass/chaff should make up at least 70% of the daily diet. A 410kg horse, for example, in maintenance mode feed at least 4.8kg dry weight of hay/ grass per day PLUS a hard feed (dry weight) a maximum of 2.1kg to make up the daily feed requirement of 6.9kg in this example. The hard feed can, of course, be less if the roughage is increased to compensate. You can create a cost-effective & nutritionally balanced daily feed simply by adding a quality balanced mineral and vitamin

The remaining 2.1kg in this scenario can be made up safely with dry weight of copra (then wet thoroughly), lupins & beetpulp (soaked). Soak the lupins & beet-pulp for at least an hour in 5X volume of water to expand fully (this is essential to avoid colic), combine with an equal volume of chaff and The Nude Horse recommends FLOWERS GOLD as a premium quality mineral & vitamin supplement. You have now created your own nutritional hard feed. (READ http://www.thenudehorse.com.au/ keep-it-simple-diet.html) Being in control of your own nutritional input (minerals and vitamins) you know you are meeting daily requirements no matter the volume of dry feed. Increase volume of feeds to put weight on and reduce to a maintenance level once ideal weight gain is achieved. Never feed less than the maintenance rate. Feeding coconut oil can safely provide additional low gI calories.

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H E A LT H

DR JOHN KOHNKE BVSC RDA MS GEORGIA LEVA BSC (ZOOLOGY) – p r e s e n t s –

The

VITAL signs

Knowing your horse’s vital signs is an important part of horse management and care. The vital signs include heart rate, temperature, respiration, capillary refill, mucosal colour and gut sounds. They are an important guide in assessing the general health and well-being of your horse. By knowing what is normal for your horse, or other horses in your care, you will be able to quickly detect if a horse appears to be displaying abnormal behaviour and signs, if it is stressed due to an injury and how to gauge the urgency of any health situation which may arise.

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

THE HEAT RATE

easuring a horse’s heart or pulse rate can give an insight into the current condition of his cardiovascular system. The average resting heart rate or pulse for a horse ranges from 25 to 45 beats per minute (bpm), during strenuous work, the heart rate can rise to 240 bpm. Exercise, pain, elevated body temperature due to infection, illness and stress can also elevate the resting heart rate and pulse rate. The heart rate can be heard directly through the chest with a good quality stethoscope. Place the stethoscope about four centimetres behind the point of the elbow on the horse’s left side, you can listen from either side, however it is easier to detect the heart rate on the left side. Measuring the rate in beats per minute will indicate how quickly the heart is contracting to pump the blood. Count the beats over an accurately timed 30 second period, then double the number counted to obtain the rate in bpm. To ensure you record an accurate reading of the horse’s

heart rate, take the heart rate when the horse is quiet and relaxed. Measure the heart rate several times, or take it over two to three minutes to establish a true average resting pulse. Ensure the heart rate is taken in quiet surrounds, e.g. in the paddock, or at the hitching rail, where the horse is at ease and familiar with his surroundings. If a horse at rest exceeds its normal resting heart rate by greater than 5 bpm, then you should observe it further for other signs of ill-health.

ONCE YOU ARE in-tune with your horse’s vital signs and measurements,

detecting any change or ill-health will become second nature. THIS IS

A KEY COMPONENT OF HORSE MANAGEMENT, especially with higher level dressage and

performance horses regularly competing and travelling to competition. A normal heart beat should be regular, strong and rhythmical. The twostage heart beat, which sounds like luddup, is counted as a single heart beat. The lub or first sound is produced by the closure of the atrioventricular valves (between the two chambers at each side of the heart) and turbulence from the contraction of muscle fibres in the heart.

The dub or second sound is produced by closure of the aortic and pulmonary valves causing vibrations. While listening to a horse’s heart, it is important to be able to recognise abnormal characteristics. Horses often have different sounding heart beats, the distinct two-beat sound in some is very easy to identify,

whilst in others, the two valved sounds are muffled or much less distinct. Abnormalities of heart beat rhythms are often associated with a problem related to the in-built nervous control and transmission of the heart muscular contraction process. Abnormal rhythms are known as Arrhythmias some are subtle, and the heart must be listened to for a while before they are detected, whilst others can be heard immediately. Abnormal rhythms that may be heard include, bradycardia (too slow) or tachycardia (too fast), dropped or premature beats, muffled heart sounds from fluid in the sac surrounding the heart and murmurs which vary in severity and are a result from disturbances in normal blood flow. Some heart rate abnormalities may increase and become more prominent after hard, intense exercise. If you are worried about your horse’s abnormal heart rate, it is important to contact your veterinarian for a consultation. TEMPERATURE

horse’s body temperature is one of the best indicators of his state

of health. A normal temperature range for a horse is 36.5°C to 38.5°C, the body temperature naturally increases to 40 -41°C during exercise as energy is metabolised releasing heat into the muscles and blood. In some cases, the normal range may be slightly higher, even in a healthy horse. Foals, in particular, tend to be at the higher end of the temperature range. Studies have shown that rugging, exercise and hot environments can raise the body’s core temperature by one degree. A horse’s body temperature is usually lowest in the morning and highest in the mid-afternoon. A horse’s temperature is conveniently taken through the anal sphincter, at the

H E A LT H

RESPIRATION RATE REFERS TO THE NUMBER OF TIMES A HORSE INHALES AND EXHALES PER MINUTE. Being a large and relatively slow-breathing animal, the respiratory movement is noticeable and easy to count. count. The respiration rate can be ideally taken whilst the horse is at rest and standing in a relaxed pose and in familiar surroundings. At rest, a normal mature horse would have a respiration rate of 8 to 16 breaths per minute, while young horses (especially foals) have a higher rate of exterior opening of the rectum. Either a human grade or a thicker bulb thermometer is sufficient, however if using a human thermometer, it is important to ensure that care is taken as they can easily break. Attaching a piece of string to the end of the thermometer is a cheap insurance to make sure the thermometer is not lost in the horse. It is important to thoroughly clean the thermometer after use, especially if it is used on an ill horse, this will help to prevent the risk of spreading an illness to other healthy horses. New infra-red electronic aural (ear) canal heat sensing thermometers are now available, but ear canal temperature may be 1°C lower compared to rectal wall temperature. If the horse’s temperature is above 38.7°C, but below 39.5°C, and the horse otherwise appears to be healthy, wait half an hour and re-take the temperature. Once taken the second time, if the temperature remains the same, call your vet immediately. Always be concerned and cautious if the temperature is 39°C and above, these high temperatures signify something is wrong. A reading of 40°C in a resting horse or higher is a cause for serious concern, and your vet should be called immediately for advice. High temperature readings in horses can indicate the presence of an infection or virus. RESPIRATION

espiration rate refers to the number of times a horse inhales and exhales per minute. Being a large and relatively slow-breathing animal, the respiratory movement is noticeable and easy to

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

12-20 bpm. If your horse is standing in the direct sunlight on a hot day you can expect his respiration to be elevated by up to 10-12 bpm, similarly, if he has recently finished a session of hard exercise or competition, his respiration rate will also be considerably higher. There are several methods used that effectively measure a horse’s respiration rate:

Stand back about three metres from the near side and watch the diaphragm moving in and out at the front of the flank. Count only the inhalations or the exhalations, not both.  Using a stethoscope, respiration can be heard by listening at the windpipe on the underside of the horse’s neck, about 200 mm down from the throat latch area. The stethoscope will detect the sound of the air moving up and down the passage. Only count one type of air sound.  Feel the breath from the nostrils on your hand, or watch the nostrils dilate as the horse inhales. 

2. 3.

CAPILLARY REFILL TIME

he rate of capillary refill in the gum membranes is a useful guide to the

state and efficiency of a horse’s circulation and provides a good indication of your horse’s blood pressure. Proper blood perfusion into tissues relies upon the effective functioning of the heart, lungs and blood vessels. Slow capillary refill time can indicate circulatory problems within any of these major body organs. Capillary refill time may be checked by pressing the gums firmly with a finger for three to five seconds. This forces blood out of the mouth membranes, and leaves a whitish, indented area immediately after the finger pressure is removed. Capillary refill time is the relative speed that is takes for the area to return to its surrounding pink colour. In a normal, healthy horse, capillary refill time is less than two seconds. If capillary refill time exceeds two seconds, there may be a circulatory or tissue perfusion problem. In general, this can be an indication of disorders that lower the cardiac output so that the blood flow is not sufficient to fill the capillaries and maintain normal vessel pressure, such as shock, colic, fluid build-up within the heart sac, weakened heart muscle, or valve damage. Dehydration with loss of body fluid tissue perfusion time and result in a slower than normal capillary refill time. MUCOSAL COLOUR

ssessing the colour of a horse’s mucous membranes provides an indication of the relative oxygenation state of their blood. Mucous membranes are the thin covering tissues that line the body openings, including the mouth, eyes, nostrils, anus, prepuce and vagina. They also cover other body tissues hidden from view, including the digestive, reproductive and respiratory tracts. The easiest places to examine the state and colour of the mucous membranes are the gums, lips and the bottom of the eyelid. The normal colour in a healthy horse is a light salmon pink. It is important to

H E A LT H

IF THE HORSE’S TEMPERATURE IS ABOVE 38.7°C, but below 39.5°C, and the horse otherwise appears to be healthy, wait half an hour and re-take the temperature. ous risk of colic, whereas continuous rapidly moving gut sounds or ‘sloshing’ sounds at the top area of the right-side flank area may be an indication of excessive gut motility and risk of diarrhoea. Normally, the ileo-caecal value at the top of the caecum opens to allow food to pass through 2-3 times per minute, remember, that the colour on the inside of the lips can be pigmented depending on the colour or breed of the horse and the nostrils are often darker than those of the gums or tongue. The eye membranes can be used as a guide; however, they are prone to irritation and drying out by the sun, wind and dust, and may not always accurately represent the state of the mucous membranes. Dry membranes with little glistening moisture on the surface may indicate a fever, severe dehydration or occur as a result of certain drugs. Examination of the membranes is usually performed by sight. If using the gums, you will need to firmly pull the horse’s lips apart; if checking the nostrils, you may need to turn the nostril up slightly; and if examining the eye, you will need to raise the upper lid a little and lower the bottom lid carefully between your fingers. It is a job for your vet to interpret the colour variations in your horse’s gums. However, as an example, membranes that are place (lighter pink or white) may be an indication of anaemia; membranes that are yellow (light mustard to a muddy colour) may signify liver (jaundice) or kidney problems; if they are dark (burgundy or maroon colour) may be caused by dehydration or reduced blood perfusion. GUT SOUNDS

ormal gut sounds include ‘gurgles’, ‘rumbles’ and ‘squeaks’, which should be heard frequently on both sides of the abdomen to indicate normal digestion. The reduction or absence of sounds may indicate a seri-

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

and it sounds like a muffled ‘toilet flush’ noise. Reduced ‘flushing’ sounds many indicate impaction colic or dehydration. Increased ‘flushing’ frequency can indicate hind gut irritation, which may be associated with loose stools or diarrhoea. To measure gut activity accurately, a stethoscope can be placed at the upper and the lower area of the flank. You can also press your ear against the horse’s flank behind his ribs. If sounds are very noisy, or there are no audible sounds, consult your vet for advice. OTHER VITAL SIGNS TO OBSERVE

daily observation of your horse’s droppings can give great insight in to his digestive health. Normal well digested droppings should be moist, heaped and light green in colour. If droppings appear to be hard or ‘pebbly’ this can indicate dehydration, or if they are soft, pasty or runny, it is likely your horse is suffering from diarrhoea. Your horse’s breath should smell ‘sweet’ and moist. A ‘rotten’ breath odour can be an indication of poor dental health, it may be a good idea to observe your horse when eating to check if he is slow to eat or is dropping a large

amount of feed. Both are signs of poor dental health and indicate a visit from the dentist is required. The skin fold return or ‘pinch test’ is an effective way to determine hydration and efficiency of your horse’s circulation. Pinch the skin at the lower third of your horse’s neck just as it blends into the shoulder. A well hydrated horse’s skin will flatten back almost immediately in less than 1 second. Factors which may affect the rate at which the skin returns, include lack of adequate water and age. An aged or very thin horse will naturally have slower skin return. It is good to know what is normal for your horse. An overweight horse with accumulated subcutaneous fat will have a slower skin pinch return, and a thinskinned horse will often have a slightly faster skin pinch return. If your horse’s skin return is slow, or the skin remains ‘pinched’ or ‘tented’ up, it is a cause for concern and you should contact your vet for advice. A skin pinch return of greater than 2 – 3 seconds indicates severe dehydration and possible toxaemia. Keeping a horse health diary and recording the readings of your horse’s vital sign measurements, is an easy and effective way to keep track of your horse’s health, especially when deciding if veterinary care is required. Passing on information to your vet, or new carers or owners of your horse, will help them to quickly and easily grasp an understanding of what is normal for your particular horse when it is healthy and fit, and when to be concerned about abnormal behaviour or ill-heath. Once you are in-tune with your horse’s vital signs and measurements, detecting any change or ill-health will become second nature. This is a key component of horse management, especially with higher level dressage and performance horses regularly competing and travelling to competition. 

AUTHOR: DANIELLE SKERMAN PHOTOS: TRT Method photographer.

T R A I N I N G

–

BH DRESSAGE p r e s e n t s

–

review of the

TRT method Online training is becoming very popular nowadays. There are so many significant benefits that you can get from it. Now with the world being even smaller with the internet, we can access information faster and easier than before.

O One of the great benefits of online training is that you can do it at your own time and speed. Some training can be learned online, and this makes it a lot easier to access information and education when you may be more rural or access a trainer who is on the other side of the world. In this case, I have had a look at Tristan Tuckers TRT Method.

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

ne thing that we can't deny is that Tristan is making a great name for himself around the world. For those of you who are regular readers of BH Dressage will know we had a lovely chat with Tristan in the last issue. Tristan holds values and work ethics towards your horse's welfare that we at BH Dressage like and agree with. Because of this, I wanted to have a look at Tristan's TRT method so I can give you an honest viewpoint on it. My philosophy is to focus as much as possible on people doing the right things and not to point fingers at the wrong, (as much as possible anyway, sometimes it's unavoidable when discussing what not to do) so for me, if I don't like something, I just won't give it air time. I try to focus on the positives and feel Tristan is about listening and working with the horse and not about forcing and dominating the horse. I liked what Tristan had to say in our interview and wanted to see if his method reflected what he said and if it would actually give you something you could use, as so many just offer ideas and concepts.

THE METHOD:

n the TRT method, Tristan looks at creating a relationship from the ground up. Its vital that you have the attention and respect of your horse first. The TRT is broken down into three sections/modules (Module 1 - THE RIGHT STEPS, Module 2 - A HUMAN WORLD, Module 3 - THE PILOT SEAT) that grows and progresses as you are able to master the patterns and exercises he teaches in it. The concept is to allow your horse to find his or her own comfort in what you are doing and to learn how to handle and deal with stressful situations. Tristan instructs in a way that is clear and easy to understand and I have enjoyed his videos. He also has an excellent FAQ (frequently asked questions) in each section that I feel covers any possible issue that may arise with your horse when trying to learn the pattern and how he'd deal with it. As we all know, our horses don't like to behave the same as the horses do in the demonstration, and there is always something that they'll do differently. Tristan has worked hard to address all possible scenarios and has answers for you in this. I found this to be particularly helpful. PUTTING IT INTO PRACTICE:

decided to give the TRT method a go with my stallion. He's pretty well behaved at home and has a good basic

understanding of some in-hand and liberty work. However, at the time of trying the TRT method, we were at the end of a long busy breeding season, and he was starting to get a little too excited when it came to our collection days at the vet's. Recently we were put in a situation of having a few other

EXTRA'S

In the online course Tristan gives you many bonus videos that can do with your horses, They are: foal handing, the Spanish walk, teaching your horse to bow, trailer/ float loading, dealing with separation anxiety, going to a show, fear of being alone, climbing wall, first time clipping, dealing with shying and mounting. There are numerous learning opportunities available through his online program. Value for Money: Cost: € 299 annual (approx $480 AUD) or € 26.95 per month (approx $43AUD) 12 payments in total If you have to look at what it costs nowadays for a lesson in Australia (anywhere from $80-220) a lesson and what you get in Tristan's online videos you'd be paying substantially more for private lessons. For all that you get, I unquestionably feel this is a value for money situation.

stallions in outdoor yards side by side as we unloaded him from the float. Not the ideal situation and he became a little full of himself. I was able to use the TRT in-hand method to regain his concentration and attention back to me. I was able to get his head back to sensible state. He was able to deal with the stressful situation that ordinarily may have been a little more difficult for both himself and myself. FINAL THOUGHTS:

sing the TRT method has been very interesting and one that you can use with limited space once you have mastered it. I can see how this method would have multiple benefits including helping to build a horses topline (see our article on how to build your horse's topline page 10). I have liked and enjoyed the TRT Method and would highly recommend it for people to check out. If you have a horse that won't stand still, spooks easily or has any sort of behavioural issues, then this method will be a great help for you. I also believe, that even if your horse is perfect and doesn't have any issues at all, that this method will still be helpful. Good basic handling and enabling your horse to manage their emotions and taking charge and control of their bodies is always a good thing. I can see how this method will help with building a good, kind and solid relationship with your horse. 

AUTHOR: DR GEORGINA LEARMONTH BSC PHD PHOTOS: depositphotos.com

H E A LT H

DR GEORGINA LEARMONTH BSC PHD – p r e s e n t s –

Joint HEALTH What’s all the fuss about?

We have all experienced joint related pain in one form or another, and this may have been due to trauma or something that gradually develops over time. Like us, our horses also experience joint related pain. However, unlike us, they can't tell us precisely what is going on, so we need to gain a greater understanding about how the joints work, what we can do to maintain them and what we should consider when things go wrong. Joint issues are one of the major problems that all horse owners face. This article aims to provide a general understanding of basic concepts around joint health. Importantly, the take-home message from this article is that when it comes to joint structure, joint function, and joint health, there is little difference between us as riders and our horses.

Baroque Horse DRESSAGE | www.baroquehorse.com.au

Georgina Learmonth BSc PhD  Dr

completed her Science Degree at The University of Sydney with majors in biochemistry and microbiology. Having spent a brief period working with A/Professor Daria Love, she commenced her PhD at the Veterinary Faculty of The University of Sydney. While undertaking her PhD, Georgina established Joint Performance Pty Ltd in 2004 when her own horse was diagnosed with DJD. At this time she used her scientific background to develop an oral joint health product ensuring the highest quality with the most effective actives based on comprehensive and sound research. Georgina has research interests in vaccine development, virology as well as respiratory viral infections in horses, namely EHV-1/4. Her company, Joint Performance is an Australian owned company based in the Hawkesbury region in NSW, solely focused on providing highquality joint health products and practising what we know best – joint health. 

SO WHAT ARE ARTICULAR JOINT?

oints are relatively simple structures composed of articular surfaces (moving surfaces) that come together within a capsule called a joint capsule. There are no blood vessels, lymphatic channels, or nerves that enter or pass through joints. The two articular surfaces of the bone are covered in a very tough and sheer resistant tissue called hyaline articular cartilage (HAC). For joints to move, the two opposing surfaces need to glide over each other with minimal effort, and lubrication is central to this process. The cartilage covering the bone has a thin layer of hyper-hydrated proteinaceous material adhering to the surface of the cartilage. This proteinaceous material is made of proteoglycans, which is es-

cease, the water is reabsorbed, and the proteoglycans are again hyper-hydrated. The other aspect of lubrication and protection of the joint is synovial fluid. The synovial membrane is the inner layer of the joint capsule. This membrane secretes a thick fluid called synovia that serves to lubricate moving parts and nourish the cartilage surface. Healthy synovial fluid is essentially a thick, viscous substance made up of plasma filtrate (blood) along with synovia, and is the primary source of nutrients for the cartilage tissue and its repair. OSTEOARTHRITIS (OA) – DEGENERATIVE JOINT DISEASE

ormal and expected wear and tear, repetitive concussion and

HEALTHY SYNOVIAL FLUID is essentially a thick, viscous substance made up of plasma filtrate (blood) along with synovia, and is the PRIMARY SOURCE OF NUTRIENTS for the cartilage tissue and its repair. sentially a combination of proteins and a special type of sugar molecule called glycosaminoglycan (GAG). It is the proteoglycan within the proteinaceous layer that provides hydration and lubrication to the cartilage surface. What this means is that when the joint is ‘functionally normal’, cartilage does not touch cartilage. Instead the layer of hyper-hydrated proteinaceous molecules interfaces with similar material on the opposing surface. Under load bearing conditions this boundary “weeps” water into the synovial fluid thereby dissipating the pressure. When load bearing conditions

acute trauma could result in chronic progressive degeneration of the joint cartilage, narrowing of the joint space, boney changes such as bone spurs, along with thickening of the synovial membrane. The process of deterioration as a result of injury is complicated, but mostly the deteriorating cartilage releases molecules into the synovial fluid that causes inflammation of the synovial membrane. The inflammation then triggers the synovial membrane to release enzymes that further contribute to the deterioration of the cartilage. The joint requires particular substrates

H E A LT H to meet normal daily repair and maintenance requirements. The key building block is glucosamine which is a GAG precursor and a substrate for the biochemical pathway responsible for the production of macromolecules involved in joint articulation including chondroitin sulfate (CS) and hyaluronic acid (HA). The rate-limiting step in the synthesis of these macromolecules is the level of glucosamine sulphate substrate available for incorporation into the biochemical pathway. It has been suggested that increasing the quantity of glucosamine substrate pushes the biochemical pathway forward and in effect increases the synthesis of GAG’s and potentially repair damaged HAC. WHAT TO DO WHEN THINGS GO WRONG?

he action you take will depend on the circumstances around what ‘clincally’ you are seeing. Your first port of call for you or your horse should be professional veterinary advice, more so in the setting of acute trauma. It's important to understand that when there is trauma that involves laceration or puncture of the joint capsules, acute management will be the most critical factor in avoiding infection and more specifically joint sepsis, thereby ensuring a good prognosis. LONG-TERM MANAGEMENT OF OSTEOARTHRITIS

he following are some areas for consideration when we take a holistic approach to the management of joint health: • WEIGHT: Added weight means added pressure, and over time this will negatively affect the ability of the joint to meet the requirements of normal maintenance and repair.  • EXERCISE: Correct exercise is essential in ensuring the joint capsule remains mobile and supple and thereby allowing nutrients to pass across the joint capsule. Don’t forget the importance of warm-

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ing and cooling down with stretching. Having well-conditioned muscle enables correct joint articulation and ensures that the joints are not inappropriately loading. When it comes to muscle quality, we need to consider it takes a minimum of 3 months to grow muscle that is both strong and supple, and this is dependent on the quality of the work, genetics, gender, age and any underlying injuries. • SHOEING/TRIMMING: Never underestimate the importance of correct and balanced trimming/shoeing. Keeping things simple is always best where appropriate, though sometimes there are no simple solutions. The environment is one of the most significant factors concerning hoof quality so ensure bedding is always clean and dry with urine removed. Notably, horses standing in heavily muddied paddocks/yards is problematic for hoof wall integrity. Treat thrush aggressively and remember there is no value in feeding oral supplements if the environmental factors are not explored/addressed. • PROPRIOCEPTION: This is an area we don’t often consider. Proprioceptors are sensory receptors in ligaments, tendons, muscles and joint capsules. These receptors provide feedback to the brain and the spinal cord concerning where our limbs are in 3D space and are part of a mechanism by which adjustment to posture and/or movement are made to help protect the body from injury, for example, a badly placed or twisted foot. Exercising on varied terrain and surfaces helps to keep proprioception well tuned therefore benefiting both you and your horse. • STABLING VS PADDOCK: When horses are stabled they are not walking and therefore joints do not move in and out of loading and unloading positions. Why is this important? Loading and unloading of joints create changes in pressure within the joint capsule and facilitates the entry of nutrients across the synovial membrane. When horses are stabled for long periods, they are more often in the loading position (standing still) which could be considered sub-optimal in ensuring maximal nutrients entering the joint. For a period this is acceptable, however, for horses that are stabled >8 hrs per

day for many months, and possibly all months of the year, this could impact the overall joint health of the horse and more so if there is an underlying joint issue/ pathology. Spelling horses should be an essential part of the life of a stabled horse. • 6. ORAL SUPPLEMENTS: The market is flooded with products that are considered joint health products. The standard therapies include glucosamine sulphate combined with chondroitin sulphate along with polysulphated pentosan injections (e.g. Cartrophen, Penstosan). Anti-inflammatories are part of acute management as well as the control of arthritic flares. Important considerations are that anti-inflammatories only treat inflammation and do not provide an active substrate that can be utilised by the joint for the benefit of maintenance and repair. That’s where oral supplements that contain the correct substrates come into play. Glucosamine sulphate is a key building block used for the production of cartilage, and it is the only form of glucosamine found naturally in healthy joints rather than the most commonly used glucosamine hydrochloride (HCL). Studies suggest that glucosamine sulphate is a vital component of any oral joint product when used in combination with chondroitin4-sulphate. Chondroitin-4-sulphate is the major form of chondroitin found in young healthy joints. It is one of the key components that gives cartilage its ability to absorb impact and resist wear. Oral joint supplements should contain chondroitin-4-sulphate due to its low molecular weight (small particle size) which is essential for efficient absorption, as opposed to the commonly used chondroitin-6-sulphate that is shark or marine-derived. Research studies suggest that chondroitin-4- sulphate plays a role in preventing destructive enzymes associated with cartilage breakdown as well as having a general anti-inflammatory action. The oral supplements discussed here should form the basis of any program for the prevention and management of osteoarthritis in horses. There are other joint health products available, but these should be used as adjuncts to those discussed here, and not as replacements.

ESSENTIAL FOR STRONG HEALTHY JOINTS

EQUINE JOINT SUPPORT FORMULA TWO

EQUINE JOINT SUPPORT

FORMULA TWO PREMIUM JOINT SPECIFIC

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03 H E A LT H

SIMPLE HERBS THAT

Repair & Support f o r

t h e

THE WHOLE HORSE By Catherine McDowell â&#x20AC;&#x201C; H e r b a l i s t

Being a Herbalist, you could say that diet and understanding what is required nutritionally is my main focus. Herbs really are about peak nutrition.

What concerns me more and more is the misunderstanding now that diet is a "science" (as all feed companies will tell us!) and that common sense no longer applies.. A good diet is not that complicated to put together, and really, in many cases, the simpler, and the better. Complexities arise from overfeeding, over mineralising of so called "safe" vitamin supplements (which can put a strain on the kidneys and liver) , and a general mixing and matching of a variety of complete feeds as competing brands argue their case. Feeds should be from a whole source, with vitamins and minerals supplied by a broad range of whole grasses (supplied in either dried hay form or fresh grasses), whole grains (like barley and oats) , and trace minerals supplied by herbs, rock salt and kelp. There are many whole feed concentrates on the market, and I do recommend some of these in the general scheme of things, however, unless you are supplementing a major deficiency, then its best to maintain health with herbs as the main source of

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essential vitamins and minerals long term, and a very simple feed program. This is especially true for the insulin resistance horse, which required high fibre and low GI fodder . I have very specific herbal and management programs for these kinds of horses. See this link : https://www.mcdowellsherbal.com/ success-stories-for-horses/1579-toy-boys-insulinresistance Like modern day diets which all come out of a packet, our horses have lost touch with their natural cravings. I often have people say to me that their horse won't eat herbs (or have lost their appetite in general). It is universally accepted that nearly every horse in work and stabled has Inflammatory bowel problems caused by dysbiosis leading to ulceration. https://www.mcdowellsherbal.com/ health-hub/1542-biognosis which is the cause of this inappetence. It does not take long for me to help the owner to change their mind, as the horse heals of the dysbiosis so does his appetite and his craving for a healthier option is obvious when he turns up his nose at the more processed feeds. Preventative Maintenance is the first and best place to start in ensuring good health. The exact same herbs discussed above can form the basis of a

program for bringing on young stock so that they have much healthier, more mature and more elastic ligaments and bones... Some of the ingredients I like to use as part of a whole food diet; Oats and Millet Oats and Millet both contain especially high levels of organic silica compounds as well as carbohydrate and many other minerals. As oats can be too hot for some situations, I would suggest that a daily cup of millet as a feed supplement is sufficient to ensure all the silica required to produce tough bones and to aid in recovery from injury. Linseed Linseed is specific for strength and elasticity of ligaments and attachment points. A cupful (milled or ground) daily in a young horse's diet and regular application of raw linseed oil to the legs of young horses is the very best thing you can do for a growing horse to avoid a working life plagued by ligament injuries. Both Millet and Linseed appear in my most popular Tendon and Bone formulation, which dramatically increases the speed of healing of injuries and prevents them from becoming chronic by completely resolving the injury.

Yarrow Yarrow is a herb which in extract form closes off blood vessels and acts as an astringent to help close up open wounds. Yarrow also stimulates bone marrow health and the production of red blood cells within the bone marrow again supporting the resolution at the most profound levels of damage or weakness following strain or injury. Chamomile Chamomile has many properties and helps various conditions ranging from skin and nervous system problems to acting as an antispasmodic and a digestive aid. Chamomile is often used to treat colic, scours and other gastro intestinal disorders. The preparation in this case is prepared with 1/3 cup of Slippery Elm Bark powder mixed into a sufficient quantity of cold tea to make a paste. One dose of this paste daily will completely heal the lining of the gastro intestinal tract when given as an uninterrupted 12 week course. Rosehips Rosehips Granules are one of the very best sources of natural Iron and Vitamin C. They also contain biotin for optimum hoof health. Rosehips play a major role in kidney rehabilitation and adrenal function

was first introduced to the concept of Herbal Lore when I was very young. I think one of the earliest influences I can remember was from my grandparents, who were very traditional Bathurst farmers of the well known Cox family. My grandfather had the “people’s home library” which was a compendium of all kinds of home cures. Herbal Medicine is, at its core, studying nature and the humanities. It’s about observing our diet, our environment and how we respond. Keeping a balance is difficult in the modern era as we are no longer interacting with our environment in the same way as we may have done even as little as a 100 years ago. As a Dorothy Hall graduate working along side the well known Robert McDowell for many years and furthering my education with Dennis Stewart, I have developed my own unique application of herbal remedies. Working primarily with animals (Horses and Dogs) has been the most rewarding. Having seen herbs work so well in so many cases has proven to me time and again the under-utilised power of herbal medicine. It is heartening to see now Vets, and some Medical Doctors seeing the traditional application of herbs as useful. My comprehensive service includes free animal consultations 24/7 via my web site, and face to face consultation in Bathurst – www.mcdowellsherbal.com ■

and can be used to prevent Azoturia or "tying up". Routine usage will completely rehabilitate kidneys weakened by stress and/or the regular use of electrolytes or diuretics. Rosehips are an excellent mild Blood Cleanser, support circulatory health, adrenal health and connective tissue health. With free access to a natural rock salt block, kelp or seaweed meal and the Rosehips tea there is no need to supplement with electrolytes which only deplete the horses system. CONCLUSIONS: In conclusion it should be clear that there are a large number of simple and inexpensive ways in which herbs can be used to both supplement the diet, aid in the maturity of bones in young competition horses, and to repair and resolve injury and strain occasioned by workload or injury. These preventative programs and injury treatments should always be the first considered and you should manage them yourselves. Veterinary medicine and surgery should be reserved for those occasions when herbal and home remedies and rehabilitation programs need assistance. Herbs will stimulate healing and recovery from injury wherever it is found in the body. Therefore every time you are treating a specific problem the herbs will stimulate healing response in other areas of past or impending weakness and take advantage of the opportunity to resolve these without your even knowing it is going on.

02 H E A LT H

H Five Handy

HINTS

P O P U L A R H A N D Y H I N T S A N D P R A C T I C A L A D V I C E F R O M K O H N K E ’ S O W N

TIPS BY DR JOHN KOHNKE BVSC RDA, D R P H I L I P P A K O H N K E (Kohnke’s Own Information Manager) & K A R E N S T E R N B E C K (Kohnke’s Own Nutritional Advisor)

Check out some great tips from one of Australia’s most popular and knowledgeable veterinarians! You can also find more great advice on his Facebook page www.facebook.com/kohnkesown

THE IMPORTANCE OF RECORD KEEPING

Keeping records of details of your horse can be very helpful. All horses differ slightly, and have their own resting heart rate, respiratory rate and temperature. Recording these details for your horse can be very helpful in times when they might become ill, so you can use it as a comparison. Having these details can also be valuable information for your vet too. Details that can be recorded and are very helpful include your horses name, age, brands or distinctive markings, normal weight, temperature, resting heart and respiratory rate, vaccination details, previous illnesses, any other health problems. Any changes in temperature, heart rate or respiratory rate can help with early detection of any health problems.

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A HEALTHY IMMUNE SYSTEM

A horse’s immune system is vital to combat viruses, infections and other illnesses. The immune system is only able to function properly with the nutrients supplied from a well-balanced diet. Occasionally the immune system may become compromised and then may not function as well as it should. Respiratory infections, hoof abscesses, viruses, injuries or even stress can reduce the proper function of the immune system. Once immunity has been compromised it becomes much harder for the horse to fight off future illnesses, and the horse will often become more prone to coughs and colds, hoof abscesses and even more overreactive than normal to insect bites and allergens. In these situations, it is very beneficial to supply extra nutrients required by the immune system to bring it back to optimum function. Kohnke’s Own Activ-8 is a very useful supplement specifically designed to boost the immune system with nutrients that are needed for active immunity.

AUTUMN PASTURE AND LAMINITIS

With recent rains, Autumn has come nice and early for many areas. The newly growing grasses tend to grow quite quickly with an early break to the season as the nights are still mild or warm, and the soil still has plenty of warmth. Horses and ponies will love these fresh growing grasses after a long dry summer, but unfortunately, they are very high in sugars during this early growth stage. Monitor your horses weight and keep an eye out for any fatty deposits such as a cresty neck starting to develop as it can quickly lead to Laminitis. Restricting grazing and feeding soaked hay maybe necessary for high risk horses and ponies during this time.

RUGGING IN THE COLDER WEATHER

As the weather cools down, it can be tricky selecting rugs for your horse. Especially with the cooler mornings and evenings, but the temperature is still warm throughout the day. It is always important to check the weather forecast for the coming day and rug accordingly. If you are unable to remove your horses rug, it is always better to rug with a lighter cotton and unlined rug, rather than over rugging with heavy winter rugs. It is important to remember, if you have clipped your horses coat to make sure they are rugged with an extra fleece or wool, as they no longer have a thick, insulating winter coat.

PASTURE MANAGEMENT

Autumn is a great time to evaluate the quality of your pastures. A lot of suitable grass species for horses can be planted at this time of year, so now is a good time to have a good look at the quality of your pasture and renew or revitalise it if necessary. It is important to be able to rotate and rest your pastures, this ensures that they have time to recover from grazing and you will get maximum benefit, as grass is cheaper than hay. Use fences, either temporary, electric or

permanent to divide your property or larger paddock into several paddocks that you can then use as part of a rotational grazing plan. Newly planted seed will take some time to grow and establish, so even if you only do one or two paddocks per year, this will allow you to be able establish new pasture properly, and over time your whole property will have much better pasture, reducing your feed bill considerably. Talk to your local agronomist or seed supply store for information on the most appropriate types of grass for horses that grows well in your area.

RE THA N

C PE RIEN

BRAND NEW HORSE FLOATS FOR SALE

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DROUGHT Drought AND GREEN

FEED FOR HORSES BY KER

Drought and Green Drought Feeding for Horses Much of Australia, particularly the southern states are dry with lower than normal rainfall over the past few months. Whether your paddocks are dry, brown and dusty or your paddocks are green but there is little to no growth, there are a number of important considerations we need to be aware of to ensure our horses are able to maintain optimal gastrointestinal function and body condition, all while ensuring daily nutrient requirements are met.

What is a green drought?

What happens to pasture in a drought?

e are all familiar with the characteristics of drought, when everything is dry and dusty and there is very little or no pasture in the paddocks. However, what about a green drought? A green drought occurs when there has been enough rain to assist pasture to shoot, but the lack of follow up rain means there is no growth. The paddocks look green, but upon closer inspection there is very little feed available for horses

to graze on. Whether you have a good doer, poor doer or performance horse in work, the basics of feeding are the same â&#x20AC;&#x201C; horses need adequate and constant forage to maintain optimal gastrointestinal health.

on structural carbohydrate (NSC) levels are at their highest when there is rapid growth, after cold nights, during sunny days and when grasses are stressed (ie, under drought conditions). One of the NSCs that we often hear about are fructans. Fructans are stored in the stems of cool season or temperate pasture species in the lower two inches of the stem and just above the soil line. Fructans are produced

H E A LT H by the photosynthesis that occurs in the leaves of plants during the day. Therefore, the sunnier the day, the more rapid the photosynthesis and more fructans are produced. They often reach their peak concentration in the afternoon after a day of building up. Plants use these sugars for growth during the night, thereby reducing their concentration. However, any fructans that aren’t used are stored. Stressed pasture that is not growing can cause fructan levels to increase by 30%, which can have implications for sensitive horses and those with metabolic conditions such as equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), insulin resistance (IR), laminitis and Cushing’s (PPID).

Forage intake considerations during drought and green drought conditions

he equine digestive tract is designed to be efficient in converting forage into energy. Under normal conditions, 60-70% of the horse’s body energy is provided by the short chain fatty acids (SCFA) produced by colonic bacteria and protozoa fermenting the pasture in the hindgut. However, when there is little pasture for the horse to consume, owners must provide an appropriate alternative forage source to fulfil fibre and energy requirements. Horses with inadequate access to forage can sometimes ingest the toxic weeds they usually avoid when there is abundant forage to choose from. Unfortunately, it is common for the weeds to flourish when grass is struggling. Horses require a minimum of 1% and ideally 1.5% of their body weight in forage per day to maintain gastrointestinal health. For the average 500kg horse, this means 7.5kg of forage per day. Horses continuously produce gastric acid in their stomach and failure to provide

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forage or feed for this to buffer the stomach acid can result in gastric ulcers. Therefore, it is best to offer supplementary forage in a slow feeder or hay net so your horse can pick at it throughout the day. When pasture is scarce, forage intake may be supplemented by increasing hay, chaff or digestible fibres such as beet pulp. Long stemmed forage like hay is best as it encourages the horse to chew more with each mouthful. This has two benefits - it takes them longer to consume and more importantly it produces more saliva which has a buffering effect in the stomach. When you notice that pasture is scarce, it’s a good idea to look for a supplementary source of forage early and purchase hay before it gets too expensive later in the season.

Maintaining body condition when pasture is limited

egular weight checks and body condition scores should be noted for all horses. Below are some guidelines for different horses. Consulting an equine nutritionist or your veterinarian is important if you are experiencing problems.

Feeding the good doer when pasture is limited

or those of us who are lucky enough to have a good doer in our paddocks at home, it is important that we don’t overlook them! We often think they are fine as they maintain their body condition, but they require constant access to forage as well. When pasture is scarce, providing these good doers with access to hay to ensure they can consume at least 1% of their body weight in forage per day is crucial. To ensure that your horse has something to pick on throughout the day, it is a good idea to put this hay in a slow feeder or hay net.

If you are concerned about weight gain in your horse, a grass hay with a low NSC that you soak prior to feeding is a good option. In addition to meeting this forage requirement, you will need to provide your horse with a vitamin and mineral supplement. Pasture and therefore hay generally doesn’t meet a horse’s full vitamin and mineral requirements so selecting a high quality vitamin and mineral supplement is crucial to ensure these needs are met. If you do don’t have to give your horse a hard feed, a high quality pelleted supplement such as KERx Gold Pellet is a convenient way to provide these nutrients as most horses will eat it straight out of your hand.

fortified to meet your horse’s vitamin and mineral requirements when fed at the feeding rate recommended by the manufacturer. If you are following these guidelines, your horse shouldn’t need a vitamin and mineral supplement unless otherwise directed by your veterinarian or equine nutritionist. However, if you are not feeding the amount recommended on the bag, you need to top up the vitamins and minerals your horse is receiving by adding a supplement. A high quality vitamin and mineral supplement should be fed to make up the difference. Kentucky Equine Research recommends either Nutrequin, Perform or Gold Pellet, depending on your preference and individual needs of the horse.

fat is energy dense, it means that you can feed more calories to a horse in less volume. This is very important as we don’t want to feed more than 2.5kg per feed to horses to ensure optimal digestive efficiency keeping their small stomach in mind. Feeding oil can be messy and may be unpalatable for some horses, so consider adding stabilised rice bran in the form of KER Equi-Jewel can add significant energy to a horse’s ration. For most horses, adding between 250g and 1kg of KER Equi-Jewel per day mixed into a ration works well to enhance the energy density of the ration.

Feeding the poor doer when pasture is limited

Grains: Grains such as oats can be increased or added to your horse’s ration, but correct feeding management is important. Grain generally has a poor vitamin and mineral profile and should be fed with a vitamin and mineral supplement to ensure your horse’s requirements are met. Adding grain to a horse’s ration is not suitable for all horses, so if in doubt check with an equine nutritionist or veterinarian.

Feeding the working horse when pasture is limited

hen horses start to lose weight, it can be tempting to increase the amount of grain or concentrate in the diet. However, this may not be the best solution for you horse’s digestive tract or your wallet! It is important that we go back to basics and look at forage intake. Remember to ensure that your horse is receiving 1.5% of its body weight in roughage per day. For horses who are struggling to maintain weight, providing ad lib hay is a good option as forage really is your horse’s friend when it comes to calories! Once you have increased the forage portion of your horse’s diet, you can then look to make up the energy shortfall through concentrate feeds. There are several considerations when looking at either adding or increasing the amount of these in your horse’s ration. Firstly, always make any changes to your horse’s diet slowly over a 7-10 day period and seeking advice from an equine nutritionist or your veterinarian is always advisable. There are several energy concentrate sources that you might consider: Premixed feeds: High quality premixed feeds have the benefit of being fully

Fat supplements: Fat contains 2.5 times more energy per gram than carbohydrates and is well tolerated by most horses. There are many practical benefits of including fat supplements such as oil or stabilised rice bran into your horse’s ration. As

he same principles discussed above for both the good doer and poor doer can be applied to the working horse with limited access to pasture. Forage is the most important consideration, followed by meeting energy requirements and then ensuring your horse’s vitamin and mineral requirements are met along with any other special care supplements such as joint supplements that may be desired.

H E A LT H

Hay is not the same as pasture!

here are several differences between what a horse can derive from pasture compared to what they can derive from hay. Two of these differences are moisture and vitamin E. Moisture

resh pasture is approximately 60–80% moisture, meaning horses obtain a substantial amount of water while grazing. However, when pasture is no longer an option, and hay (typically 10-15% moisture) is provided as the major forage source, care should be taken to ensure adequate water intake for other water sources. When horses consume large amounts of dry forage (with or without the addition of grain or concentrates which also have a relatively low moisture content), but inadequate water consumption, they have an increased risk of impaction colic. The stalkier the hay is, generally, the more indigestible it is, which can also contribute to an increased risk of colic in the absence

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The various roles of vitamin E in immune response, nerve and muscle function, and antioxidant action make it vital to the health of young, growing horses. Together with selenium, vitamin E acts to maintain normal muscle function, aid in the prevention of muscular disease, and provide antioxidant protection to body tissue, particularly cell membranes, enzymes and other intracellular substances, from damage induced by oxidation. Horses are not very efficient in storing vitamin E, although body stores may contain sufficient vitamin E to cover a few months of inadequate pasture intake, assuming the intake has been adequate prior to this. In times of prolonged pasture restriction, supplementation is required to ensure vitamin E can perform all its functions in the body. Additionally, foals born to mares depleted in vitamin E of adequate water intake and saliva may have little or no reserves, which production. would make them more susceptible to Horses normally consume infectious diseases. between 20-55 litres of water in 24 Supplementing vitamin E is hours, under normal conditions, best achieved through the use of a depending on their physiological state. For an adult horse, in little to no natural, water-soluble product like KERx Nano•E, which uses liposome work, the average is around 35 litres encapsulation and nanodispersion per day. Monitoring water intake is technologies to achieve rapid important for all horses at all times bioavailability. Research has shown throughout the year. that KERx Nano•E is six times more bioavailable than synthetic vitamin E, Vitamin E allowing a smaller serve size to have the same effect in a palatable liquid itamin E is one of only two important vitamins that the horse form. cannot produce itself and therefore must be provided in the diet. Grazing Ask for help! horses usually get enough fat from green grass to satisfy this need. ost importantly, remember However, horses who are consuming that expert help is close by no mainly hay as their forage source, may matter what your situation, so if you not be able to meet this requirement. have any queries about your horses’ Vitamin E rapidly disappears during diet and want to double check that harvesting of hay, with 30 to 85% he is getting everything that he needs being lost initially and further loss contact Kentucky Equine Research’s occurring during storage. The amount FREE Nutrition Consultation Service of vitamin E in hay is quite variable, on 1800 772 198, email advice@ker. depending on the type of forage and com or submit a diet analysis request the harvesting procedures. through our website www.ker.com

The best substitute for a natural source of Vitamin E Bottle up the goodness of green grass with Nano•E®.

Nano•E® provides a rapidly absorbed natural source of vitamin E to horses through a unique nanodispersion delivery system. Ideal for horses recovering from illness or injury. For use prior to or following stressful events such as foaling, weaning or travel.

Only

80¢ per day*

Available from leading saddleries and stock feed stores. Visit our website ker.com to find your nearest outlet. *Based on a daily 4ml serve.

Kentucky Equine Research 03 8562 7000 www.ker.com

Product Innovation Nutrition Consultation Service 1800 772 198 | advice@ker.com Charter

SSG Gloves

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