Food & Wine AUTUMN 2013
IT’S SHOWTIME! Abundance of local produce Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013 - 1
Autumn Food & Wine
First Beergustation proves popular Around 27 people enjoyed Barossa Valley Brewing’s first Beergustation with hosts, Denham D’Silva, proprietor and Alana Brabin, chef at their Tanunda venue on Thursday.
It was the opportunity for the brewery to announce their uniquely talented chef, Alana Brabin, who has dedicated her career to highlighting the wonderful combination of beer and food.
Join us as we celebrate the new harvest as our ancestors did with Federweisser (Feather wine) and Zweibelkuchen.
You can enjoy the unique flavours of Federweisser from the 9th of March at the Barossa Farmers Market, Yalumba Harvest Market & Taste Eden Valley.
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Available for only 8 weeks of the year!
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10 - Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013
Denham D’Silva, beer authority, and Alana Brabin, chef, proudly displayed their beer and food at the Beergustation.
Denham Di’Silva, proprietor, explained how Alana has built her knowledge in some of the best restaurants and micro breweries in Australia. “She is a wizard when it comes to cooking with or matching beer to her dishes. She will be a wonderful addition to the Barossa Valley’s food culture,” Denham added. The six course Beergustation with matched beers, commenced with entree featuring locally grown figs, grilled, wrapped in prosciutto and served with a crumbly blue cheese and caramalt beer extraction. Beer match was Barossa Valley Brewing Saison. Following that was South Australian rainbow trout, simply seasoned and panfried with a salty aioli and deep fried capers. Beer match was Barossa Valley Brewing Beesting. Third course was freshly shucked S.A. rock oysters, served simply with lime, black pepper and Barossa Valley Brewing Ginger Beer Reduction. Beer match was Barossa Valley Brewing Beesting and Barossa Blonde Beauty. Next came a serve of generous
round of boned, roasted Gawler River Quail with a thick reduction of pan juices featuring the flavours of Barossa Valley Brewing Organic Ale and Spanish Jamon accompanied by signature tender pork ribs in the chef’s sticky imperial stout and barbecue sauce. Beer match was Barossa Valley Brewing Organic Ale. Fifth course was lamb cutlet crusted with fennel seed and preserved lemon with beer match, Barossa Valley Brewing IPA. The final course was a very rich curvature chocolate tart with fresh raspberries and thick double cream and imperial milk jelly stout. Beer match was Barossa Valley Brewing Imperial Stout. Denham explained that Barossa Valley Brewing plan to do this every month with six local winemakers coming along to the next event planned for April 4. Denham said, “We will match the beer and wine to each course and participants will be able to vote. At the end of the month there will be a lucky winner drawn. We will also have two beer authorities speaking about beer.”
ICE CREAM
Not just a summer treat Now the weather is starting to cool down, it’s the perfect time to enjoy an ice cream without it melting all over your hands. Mr Tony Bowen from Tanunda’s Nice Ice has been using Barossa produce to create his sweet treats for 18 years. From apricots off his own tree, to a whole range of grape varieties, Mr Bowen’s ice cream is made with fresh ingredients to create a number of flavours. Over the years, he has experimented with 105 different flavours, including quandong, Satsuma plums, quince and even lavender.
Mr Bowen said making the wine ice cream – made with unfermented grapes – was interesting because each variety would turn out a different colour. Even though ice cream flavours are growing, not only in smaller shops but also in supermarket freezers, Mr Bowen said the favourites are still chocolate, lemon and vanilla. Mr Bowen – who is diabetic – said you have to adapt to people’s needs and his grape and lemon flavours were perfect for those who couldn’t eat dairy.
Meet at the Market Community support boosts Barossa Farmers Market
The Breakfast Rave team comprising Damien Feuerherdt, Janelle Amos, Cherie Hausler (front), Beck Flavel and Pete Little (absent, Paul Amos) with Barossa Farmers Market manager, Jess Greatwich, have supported the market’s waste management initiative.
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Addressing waste management at the Barossa Farmers Market has been given a boost, thanks to a grant from The Breakfast Rave. The Breakfast Rave, a completely organic pop-up café event, has donated the money to support the market to adopt a waste management programme. Now the financial support has been given, market manager, Ms Jess Greatwich is keen to get the project up and running as soon as possible with further advice and support provided by Zero Waste SA. A waste audit will be the first step, followed by education and implementation across the site. Cherie Hausler of Scullery Made Tea and a member of the Breakfast Rave said the fact the Breakfast Rave was born at the Farmers Market it made sense to give some money back. “The six of us are here every week as customers and stallholders and we feel part of the farmers market community,” said Cherie.
“Any recycling is an improvement.” The support of the Breakfast Rave adds to the market’s continued engagement in the community as the market continues to grow. Three months into her role, Jess has recruited a band of volunteers to help add another dimension to the weekly market. Jess said they are striving to connect more with the community and have initiated a number of projects to achieve their goal. Among them is the ongoing supply of a community table where members of the public can sell their excess backyard fruit and vegetables for free; using the information booth as a way of providing a better experience for market shoppers and stepping up their online presence. “I was overwhelmed with the response of volunteers,” said Jess. “We now have a roster of people to staff our information booth and now have a dedicated place for questions and a place where people can find out about producers and the region.” Jess said having so many volunteers show interest gives the market scope to run new and exciting projects in coming months.
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A REAL COMMUNITY EVENT Every Saturday morning 7.30 to 11.30am Corner Stockwell and Nuriootpa Rds, Angaston barossafarmersmarket.com
ICE CREAM TREAT: Mr Tony Bowen scoops out one of his many flavours of ice cream.
DH2636
Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013 - 11
Out & About Market celebrates First Birthday
Mark Day with Wendy, David and Meredith Parker at the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market First Birthday on February 2.
Marilyn and Rod Thorn, of Flaxman’s Valley, filled their shopping baskets full of fresh produce.
Bob Modra, Lachlan Pinchbeck and Sandy Modra happy with their purchases.
Sam Dogan from Dogan Farm was all smiles when Courtney Regan, chairman of the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market Committee passed around slices of birthday cake.
Barossa Vintage Festival
30 March to 7 April 2013
Be inspired by Barossa’s greatest blend: wine, food, characters and culture. Nine days of celebration across 100 unique events. New experiences, fond favourites and everything in between.
Est. 1947. Australia’s original regional wine festival. Full Festival program available: www.barossavintagefestival.com.au Colourful characters share their Barossa Vintage Festival stories on MyBarossaChannel: www.youtube.com; Enquiries: (08) 8563 0663; info@barossavintagefestival.com.au twitter.com/mybarossa
facebook.com/barossavintagefestival DH1384-V2
12 - Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013
Autumn Food & Wine CONTENTS Pick of the Bunch – Abel Gibson Culinary Delights – Celeste Waechter Open a Top Drop Paddock to plate principle for Flaxman Valley family Ice Cream – not just a summer treat Barossa Farmers Market receives grant Out & About OUR COVER: Tanunda residents Max Schubert, Frank Graetz and Ray Giersch share their thoughts on why locally grown fruit is best while enjoying the surrounds of Langmeil Winery.
Forbes Brien, Vaughan Taylor, Lindy Sando, Ross Kitchin, Annabel Kitchin, Hans Liedig and Jane Liedig were among the crowd at the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market First Birthday celebrations on February 2.
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Bella and Claudia Rold had their faces painted during the First Birthday celebrations.
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The Mount Pleasant Farmers Market celebrated its First Birthday last month with celebrity chef, Mr Simon Bryant joining the festivities. In their first year of operation the market has attracted more than 30,000 shoppers and recruited 50 volunteers who have contributed 1,200 hours of their time. According to market organisers, nearly 500 people have signed up to be market members and more than $2,000 has been donated to community groups including the Friends of Mount Pleasant Hospital, Springton and Mount Pleasant Primary Schools and the Angaston and District Lions Club. Most market days have between 35 and 40 different stallholders and attracts more than 500 to 600 customers as they bring together the best of locally grown and produced food with a focus on fresh, seasonal and quality produce. Market manager, Ms Genevieve Hebart said the market has been following the trend of other long standing successful farmers markets with member, stallholder and shopper numbers all increasing in their first year. “The amazing growth of the farmers market in their first 12 months is a testament to all the hard work by volunteers and staff of the Mount Pleasant Farmers Market Inc, with support also coming from The Barossa Council and the Mount Pleasant Natural Resource Centre Inc,” she said. The Mount Pleasant Farmers Market is held at the Mount Pleasant Showgrounds from 8 a.m.
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Mt. Pleasant Farmers Market every Saturday 8 a.m. - 12 noon
Showtime in the Barossa Promoting local The selection of fruit at this time of year brings joy to Tanunda residents, Ray Giersch, Frank Graetz and Max Schubert. Bring the three neighbours together and you hear stories of the fruit industry in yesteryear, the memories of tending to and picking fruit and the delight of growing your own produce. Before they moved to the Barossa, Frank and Max managed fruit properties in the Riverland. For the two of them and their families, this time of year was all about stone fruit, drying, preserving and consuming what they describe to be the best fruit for the year. For Ray though it is a different memory, a chance for locals to have their homegrown produce on display as he convenes the fruit section at the Tanunda Show on March 9 – a role he’s had for the last 10 years. Ray enjoys his role, which he took on after being a steward in the late 90s, and agrees it is always better when you can pick your produce from your own backyard, as Frank agrees. “People generally don’t grow a lot of this stuff anymore, the blocks I used to manage are now vines,” said Frank. “But it is always better if you can pick in your own backyard, if you can grow the fruit and vegetables yourself.” For Max, picking the stone fruit early in the morning brings sheer delight. “Some fruit more so,” added Max. “There’s nothing like picking a nectarine early in the morning and sitting under the tree and eating it. Between my wife and I, we pretty much grow all our veggies.” The region is nearing the end of the stone fruit season, one which produced quality rather than quantity. Figs and quinces are showing strong signs and the region’s pear and apple trees are starting to deliver fruit. Fruit trees of all varieties were spread across the region in the 1940s, but the wine industry and housing has taken over. The men believe part of the reason for the downturn in local fruit trees, is because there’s
Ray Giersch, Frank Graetz and Max Schubert are looking forward to an abundance of local fruit at this year’s Tanunda Show. not many outlets in the region to cater for the fruit. But Ray is looking forward to seeing an abundance of local fruit at this year’s Tanunda Show, which celebrates 100 years. “A lot of young ones are interested themselves
in the fruit and the parents are showing their fruit and the young ones are coming through also,” said Ray. “It’s exciting to see the young ones enter and for them to win a prize and see their faces light up.”
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Pick of the Bunch Young gun is the people’s choice After travelling the world to experience wine in different countries, Abel Gibson of Ruggabellus has settle back in the Barossa and is making a name for himself. Abel (left), from Stockwell, won both the Young Gun of Wine award and People’s Choice award last year – a feat that had not been achieved before. Abel grew up in the Barossa surrounded by wine as the son of Gibson Wines founder, Rob Gibson. “I grew up entrenched in wine but not really knowing a lot about it, it was always in the background,” Abel said. After attempting a university degree in winemaking, Abel decided to abandon his studies and spent the best part of a decade travelling the world. Everywhere he went, he came across Australian wine and said it seemed to be calling him home. The money he would have spent on a degree instead went into countless bottles of wine. “After nearly a decade of travel I was a bit restless to settle down so I decided to come back.” Abel landed a job in the cellar at Rockford Wines in late 2001 and his perception of wine changed. “For the first time, I could see winemaking as more of a craft, before that I’d only seen it on a larger scale. “It was nice to be at Rockford and see it was something a little bit more creative and that certainly captured my attention.” Abel flew overseas again to do a vintage in Spain with Rockford’s winemaker at the time, Chris Ringland. When he arrived home, he worked a vintage with Charles Melton and then went to work with his father for three years.
Taking the initiative with his own wines, Abel began to experiment while working with his father and also while later working with Pete Schell at Spinifex – where he would make wine in the car park before and after work. “Pete encouraged me to start my own wine label. “He acknowledged my passion and experience, which was hugely inspiring coming from one of the best in the Barossa.” Abel’s philosophy has always been about making people take notice of a wine itself, rather than the variety. “I was keen for people to like a wine for the wine’s sake, not for what it was made of.” It was for this reason he wanted to leave the variety off each label, but was talked out of doing so by a friend. Abel’s goal with Ruggabellus is to capture aromatics with light to medium weight wines that work well with food – a trait that is important to him and his partner, Emma. “I try to pick the grapes at the point that allows me to do as little as possible in the winery. “I watch them incredibly closely through ferment, I suppose I let our wines guide me.” The pressure has been building from Abel’s accolades, but he said it made him work harder improve. As for the future, Abel – father of Bailin, 22 months – said he can see Ruggabellus growing to the point they can satisfy Australian and international customers. “I’m trying to find the sweet spot where you’ve got enough time to make sure you’re doing a high quality job, but you’re making enough wine to make enough money to support the family.”
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Introducing the Barossa’s newest Cafe...
Flaxman’s Valley mother, Mrs Celeste Waechter uses duck in quick and easy everyday meals.
Celeste’s simple duck dish Flaxman’s Valley resident, Mrs Celeste Waechter is proving duck can be used in more than just a fancy restaurant dish. The mother of three uses duck in quick and easy everyday meals, from spaghetti to sausage rolls, to cater for her whole family. “You can use duck just like you do your normal beef because it is just as good; it actually has more iron in it,” Celeste said. “Duck just tastes a bit stronger and has a gamier flavour.” Celeste often prepares a tray of sausage rolls and freezes them for a quick snack for her children on weekends or to take to parties. “It is so easy, if you keep them in the freezer, they will last and you can get them out whenever you need them,” she said.
Homewares & Gifts
“It is something a bit different too, not everyone has a duck sausage roll at a party.” Duck spaghetti, served with a glass of red wine, is a favourite among Celeste’s adult guests. The dish is prepared the same as regular spaghetti bolognaise, with the duck mince cooked slowly to keep in flavour. Celeste said there were many different uses for duck, including rendering the fat for roasting vegetables. “Duck fat is awesome for roasting vegies – they come out quite golden brown with a different taste.” For those new to cooking with duck, Celeste suggested slow cooking it whole with an orange. “It will help getting used to cooking with it. Cooking a whole duck is no different to cooking a whole chook.”
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42 Murray Street, TANUNDA Homewares & Gifts
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Open a Top Drop Burge Family Winemakers
Celebrating
85
Burge Family Winemakers 2008 ‘Olive Hill’ Shiraz-GrenacheMourvedre
years
A blend comprising Shiraz (76%), drygrown Grenache (14%) and Mourvedre (10%), all growing on our limestone ‘Olive Hill’ block. Prior to bottling, this blend underwent 15 months maturation in 100% French oak barriques (30% new). A rich, robust yet stylish red that will certainly benefit from cellaring, and develop into an elegant SGM blend, typical of the reds from our ‘Olive Hill’ block.
WINEMAKING IN THE BAROSSA Established in 1928 by Percival Burge, the family firm is today managed by his grandson Rick who, in his 27 years at the helm, has developed an enviable reputation for the premium table wines from the firm’s DRAYCOTT and OLIVE HILL blocks. Also available are the original, and genuine,
fortifieds,
released from old maturing stocks that are judiciously blended and bottled using the time-honoured solera method.
Visitors welcome – Monday, Friday and Saturday (and Sunday of Holiday weekends) 10am-5pm 1312 Barossa Valley Way, Lyndoch P: 8524 4644 www.burgefamily.com.au DH2602-V2
DH2586-V2
Festival time at...
Ross Estate Introduces....
with the LUNCH W histler family
TUES 2ND APR, THURS 4TH AP R & FRI 5TH APR 12 noon - 3 pm
3 Course Vineyard Lunch
Ross Estate- Barossa Valley Way, Lyndoch P: (08) 8524 4033 sales@rosswines.com
Adults $85 Children U12 $30 Bookings Essential
Family
Y A FUN D
1 MARCH 3 Y SUNDAY, FREE ENTR m p 5 m 11 a nd Music
ea Food, Win and egg hunt s, games aster craft
E
«
« TWILIGH T CONCE RT « « ‘SOUNDS OF THE BAROSSA’ Featuring local musicians
MONDAY 1 APRIL ... 6 pm - 10 pm ST
«
Adults $20 Children U15 $5
«
« Whistler Wines – 8562 4942
Seppeltsfield Rd, Marananga www.whistlerwines.com 6 - Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013
DH2582-V2
«
No BYO alcohol BYO food, chairs & rug
Open a Top Drop Ross Estate 2010 Single Vineyard ‘Old Vine’ Grenache
The grapes are picked from the ‘Railway Block’ situated in the Southern town of Lyndoch in the Barossa Valley. This is a beautiful example of a Grenache with intense perfume and concentrated berry fruit. Balance and finesse make this wine a great all year choice. As the days become cooler, this Grenache will suit the earthy warm flavours that come with Autumn. Planted in 1912, the vines are over 100 years old. This individual wine is crafted to create a seamless balance between intensity, structure and elegance. NOSE: Perfumed raspberries and red cherries with musk and sweet spices. PALATE: Light and confectionery mouth feel with concentrated savoury and gamey flavours. The tannins are soft and silky adding layers of structure to the fresh fruits and fragrant spices and providing great length, supported by integrated sweet toasted oak.
Whistler Wines 2010 Shiraz
Seppeltsfield 2011 Barossa Shiraz
DH2463-V2
Sourced from Seppeltsfield’s estate vineyards, the 2011 Barossa Shiraz was vinified through the historic 1888 Gravity Flow Winery. Built into the hillside on a series of terraces, gravity guides the flow of grapes down through the winery to deliver gentle extraction of colour, flavour and tannin. Matured in seasoned French oak puncheons, this medium-bodied wine displays elegant red fruits, savoury spice and a delicate tannin texture.
Whistler Shiraz has built a reputation over the past five years and this year is no exception. Coffee and dark fruits moving toward an inkiness with a splash of vanilla are predominant on the nose, followed by sweet berries and wet leather, accompanied by white pepper and spice.
FORTIFIED WINE & CANAPÉ TASTING FLIGHT Join us for an indulgent sensory experience. Enjoy a flight of 6 award winning fortified wines expertly matched with individual tasting spoon canapés by Seppeltsfield chef, Owen Andrews. Following your sensory journey, enjoy a guided tour of the Seppeltsfield property, where you will be immersed in the estate’s intriguing Barossan history. Tues 2nd April 11am - 12pm Wed 3rd April 11am - 12pm
Thurs 4th April 11am - 12pm Fri 5th April 11am - 12pm
$30 per person – includes wine tasting, canapés and tour
BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL
Ph: (08) 8568 6217 or Email: cellarsales@seppeltsfield.com.au Seppeltsfield Road, Seppeltsfield www.seppeltsfield.com.au Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013 - 7
DR5870
Paddock to Plate Matthew Waechter of Flaxman’s Valley started selling ducks to restaurants for pocket money when he was just seven years old and is now managing a 2,000-bird business. Breeding ducks is more than just a source of income for the father of three, who, along with his children, spends most of his spare time in the paddock. Matthew developed a passion for ducks when he caught a young crossbreed male at the river at about six years of age. His grandfather then purchased two female ducks for him at the Truro-Kapunda Market and he started selling the offspring to restaurants and markets during school holidays. Matthew experimented with the diet and exercise of the ducks to produce the best possible meat, and eventually his product became well known around the Valley. He was approached by a man at the Barossa Farmers Market who wanted to purchase 80 ducks per week, and from there Matthew’s business grew. “I was about 19 and producing about 80 ducks a year at that stage so that really got me started,” Matthew said. Matthew was supplied with day old ducklings, which he would raise and sell back at a profit. “It started getting bigger from my side of things and I really decided to go out on my own. I just went through the phone book and rang people. I would provide them with samples and then follow it up.” Matthew registered his business name, Waechter’s Dux, a decade ago and now sells around 100 birds per week. He raises his Peking ducks for 13 weeks and Muscovys for 17 weeks before they are butchered at Kapunda, smoked or minced at Lyndoch and sold at the
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s f e h C
More than just a job
. . . N U R E H T ON
s Ryan Edwllaatiord n Chef of Appe Barossa Valley
Hi everyone and welcome to 2013 and my new column about Chefs on the Run.
This year will be a different format and style I hope you enjoy the reading for the great simple recipes that our local chefs are letting us use. We will also gain a better insight into the people that are the core of the restaurants in the Barossa Valley and what makes them tick This being the first of four good food and wine lift-outs I am going to give you for 2013. This issue I have interviewed Barossa Valley chef Ryan Edwards of Appellation restaurant. These interviews will give you an insight of their personalities by the questions that I have asked about themselves, the industry and the funny side of kitchen antics. We are very lucky to draw such talented chefs to the valley to entice and pleasure us with their culinary skills and their vision of simplistic but wonderfully crafted foods..... all this cannot be done without the Artisan growers, breeders, makers that we are blessed to have within our community and the wider regions of South Australia. So hang onto your spuds and have a laugh while enjoying the food.
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Breast of Eden V with blackberries alley duck and juniper glaze
Wine Match
: 2010 Sons of
Eden ‘Pumpa ’ Cabernet Sauvignon Sh INGREDIEN iraz TS METHOD 4 Peking d uc Place salt, ga 20g sea sa k breast lt food proces rlic, spices and zest in 1 garlic clo sor and pulse ve du . Lightly st breast an 0.5 cinnam on quill hours, brush d refrigerate for 2 off salt and 1 orange ze grill skin side down slo st 0.25 tsp wh Turn and co wly for 15 minutes. ite peppe ok for just 2 m r 0.25 star a more then le inutes nise t 0.25 tsp co heat port, br rest. For the sauce; riander see andy, red w d ine, juniper and thyme in 100g fresh blackberrie until well redu a saucepan and boil s 50ml bran ce dy d. Ad d berries an crush some 20ml port d ge of a fork. Ad ntly with the back 20ml good d ve al gl aze and heat red wine gently until w 60g veal g to remove th ell incorporated. Try la e juniper an 2 sprigs thymze Then simply d thyme. e sli 5 juniper b and garnish ce duck, add berries erries w ith a fe w roquette Some nice leaves. The roquette le bl aves delight of the ackberries are a true goes wonde season and this dish rfu spicy young lly with a soft and Ed Shiraz. Enjoy. en Valley Cabernet
DR5890
Catchya next time Damon de Ruiter 40s Cafe Angaston
Barossa Farmers Market and restaurants. Matthew has developed a special feed mix – which takes nine hours to mix up every week – with wheat, barley, lucerne chaff, fish meal, corn, peas and a few secret ingredients. Between meals, the ducks have to walk between paddocks to eat grass, which produces a different fat content in the meat. “The fat content in mine is what makes it stand out. In other ducks, the meat is marbled through, whereas my duck fat is all-together and cooks out and you’re left with a nice bit of meat. “The fat content is so different because they have to walk to get their next feed, they’re not just sitting in a shed all day. While Matthew is supported by local customers, he stressed how important it was to return the favour by supporting his community. He buys his packaging locally, sources food supplies from the Valley and has his meat prepared in the region. “It is important to help each other out. You look after your locals and they look after you.” While Matthew is a carpenter by trade, his real passion is in breeding and caring for his ducks. “It is just fun; other people come home from work and they work on cars, others go for a bike ride and I come home and play with my ducks. “I can have a bad day at work, but when I come home, it is all exciting again.” Matthew’s aim is to give his ducks the closest thing to the wild as possible in a farmed environment. “If I was one of the ducks, I would be happy. We’re giving them the best possible life they can have in their short lifespan.”
8 - Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013
Autumn Food & Wine
Cody (12), Chloe (5) and Mitchell (7) like to help their dad, Matthew Waechter raise ducklings at their Flaxman’s Valley property.
ExpEriEncE
AffordAblE finE dining OPEN 7 DAYS Fully licensed or BYO
The most inviting dining experience you will ever encounter The perfect location to dine with family and friends or simply enjoy a coffee
L
BOOKINGS ESSENTIA
Phone 8564 2725
www.sacompanystore.com.au
DH2593-V2
27 Valley Road, ANGASTON DR5855
Autumn Food & Wine, “The Leader”, March 6, 2013 - 9