Sleuthinginthecity

CONVERSATIONWITHJAYSONWECHTER ||| BYCHUCKBARNEY

of walkingtour — aproactive, brain-flexing one.

Once a year, morethan athousand urbanadventurers take tothe streetsofSan Franciscofor some funandspirited sleuthing known asthe Chinese NewYearTreasure Hunt. Competing infourdivisions, ranging from beginnerto expert, participantsteamup to solve mind-boggling clues thatleadto offbeat locationsconnectedwithlocalhistory,artand culture. Teams solving the mostclues inthe shortesttime rulethe day.Wespoketo founderJayson Wechter, aSan Francisco private investigator, togetaninsidelook atthisone-of-a-kindevent.

What inspiredyou tostart this in the first place?

Ihad done treasurehuntswith other kidswhile growing up in Brooklyn.I’vealwaysbeen interested inexploring urban environments and history.Andinmywork as a privateinvestigator,Icertainly understand thejoy of thataha! moment — whenyou suddenly see something moreclearly.

So itallsprang fromthat?

Yeah, itwasaway of giving people that experience inamore playful way.Each clue is apuzzle that leads to aparticular location. Youhave togo tothatlocation to find somethingthathelpsyou to answer a question posedinthe clue — something thatcan onlybe answeredbybeingthere.

Howdo you determinethedegree of difficulty? And do you everfeel guiltyfor makingcertain clues toodifficult?

Actually,I’veoccasionally gotten some feedback sayingthatit’snot hard enough. I testall the clues out onmy friends beforehand togeta feelforwhat’sappropriate. All the clues are designed to betoo difficultto be solvedby asingle person. Ittakes ateam effort.Generally, if youknow how to use a map and a streetindex,you cando this.

Canyou give usan example of a reallytoughone?

One of the mostdifficult clues everhappened to bethe shortest one:Itwas acapital E followedby thenumeral 2.

What theheck?OK, Igiveup.

Itreferredto EngineCompanyNo. 2(the firstfirehouseto be rebuilt in the downtown district afterthe earthquake of 1906).

Oh,so tricky!

Ithink onlyone or two teams gotit.Iactually offeredupahint earlierin the day,beforethe hunt. Iwas beinginterviewedona radio show,andtheshow’spianist played the song “When Smoke Getsin YourEyes.”

Nice.Besides thetreasurehunting competition, you’ve alsogot contests for best team names andbestcostumes, right?

Yeah, lastyear it wasthe Yearof theHorse, and one team got all dressed up likethe horse-head knight pieces onachessboard.That was prettyfunny—and clever.

Clearly, alot of peoplehavehad ablastwith this eventover the years. Butwhatdoyou getout of the experience?

Forfourhoursonthatoneday, I’m the mostscrutinizedwriterin San Francisco. People are paying attentiontoevery sentence, every comma, I’vewritten. That’spretty gratifying. AndIlove showing people the city.It’sbasicallyawalking tour in theguise ofagame.

Yes,and it’savery differentkind

LEARNMOREATWWW.SFTREASUREHUNTS.COM

Itshifts the way yougetout and experience the environment, and that’sabig part of thefun. Itforces youtolook up anddown, and at things you normally might not pay attention to.And hopefully,it gets peopleto come away with a greater appreciationof the city.

Afterdoingthis for somany years, how do youstay motivated andkeepthings fresh?

Everyyear, I find something new.I just startwalking thestreets, and something will catchmy attention. Maybe it’sanew piece of public art. Maybeit’savestigeofthe past that I didn’tknow about or an interesting visualdisplay in a storefront window.Sometimes, I’ll even create myownhistorical markers for thenight.

Oh, really?Howdoes that work?

There are a number of historical spots thatshould be marked but aren’t. So Icreate temporarymarkers. Once, I learnedthe location of thefirst bridge in SanFrancisco. It was built in 1847 over alittle creek. Ifound that interesting.Here’sa city known for its bridges, but no one knows about thevery firstone.

And there’sno slowing youdown?

I’llkeep doing it foras long asIcan. There’stremendous enthusiasm for it.People keepcoming back.

Howdoyouthinkyou would fareinone of thesehunts?

Iguessit dependson whomy teammates were,but, truthfully, I’m notabig puzzleaficionado. I’ll doacrossword puzzle with my wifenow and then, but I’m not hookedonthem.

Oh, theirony.

WITHBREATHTAKINGVIEWS, POINTREYES ISALANDOFPEACEFULPERFECTION

Iknew itwhenwepassed theBuddha barn onPoint Reyes-Petaluma Road. Iknewitwhen a snowy egret flew besideusaswedrovethrough thehilly California countrysidewiththetop down on ourconvertible, and whenwespotted the oyster bedspokingout of TomalesBay.But when abright yellow“You’veArrived”sign greetedusaswe pulledupto Manka’s InvernessLodge, Istill felt a surgeof anticipation.Wehad found ourDestinationRelaxation, one of Northern California’smost treasured getaways to melt away themadnessthat canenvelopourSiliconValley lives.

Celebrating our 20th wedding anniversary,myhusband, Chris, and I hadthe opportunity for a romanticweekend getaway,achance to redeem our first attempt: a trip to Cabo San Lucas thatwas spent fending off time-sharehucksters and searchingforsigns of an authenticMexicanexperience.

Tofind apeaceful vacation a short drive from theBay Area,the possibilitiesareendless.Monterey Bay,to the south, is always a favorite, but Tomales Bay,just an hour north of San Francisco, held abit of mystery for me.

Iwasn’tlooking for full-body massages andcedarenzyme baths, althoughboth were at theready.Instead, Iwantedto immerse myself inthe culture of this unspoiled, pastoral placeand pretend, if only for 2½days, that Ibelongedhere.

Fromcharmingaccommodations and finediningto apicniclunch on a sheep farm and breathtaking hikesthrough the wind-sweptPoint ReyesNational Seashore, we foundthe peace and beauty we hadsought.Along the way,weexperienced an earthy communitythat canbesummed up in a simplestreetscenein Point ReyesStation: Ayoga studio shares spacewith a haybarn that’sacross thestreetfrom a bakerydown the way fromafarm stand thatrelies on the honor system for payment.

Thisis locavore heaven,aplace that celebrateslocal food, from its gourmet cheeses produced at the organicdairiesnestledintothe countryside tothe grass-fedbeef on themenuatSir andStar, atthe old Olema Inn, to thewaterbuffalo milk gelatoyoucanbuysoft servefor $1.69 behind the butcher counter at the PalaceMarket.

It’snot exactly as mywisecrackingengineerhusbandconjured up as we headednorth from San Jose: “IsthereanApple Store,” he asked, “forlocally sourced consumer electronics?”

At left: En route to thePointReyes Lighthouse, Valerie Martin, of Montreal, stops under wind-swept cypresstreesto pose foraphoto for her travel companion.

Previouspage: Nick’sCove Restaurantand Oyster Bar Boat Shack sitsatthe endofapier on TomalesBay. Here, patronscan watch the sunset, play anupright pianoand order food and drinks fromawallmountedphone.

WE STARTED OURTRIP

Sunday morning at thefamed Cowgirl Creameryindowntown Point ReyesStation, wherewe learnedthat“bloomy rind” isanother term used for soft-ripened cheese.There, we metElizabeth Hill, who operatesWestMarin Foodand Farm Tours, with whom we had bookedher“Quattro Formaggio” tour — abehind-thescenes invitationto local dairies.

Iwas looking for authenticity, but as soon as we walkedoutside to getinto her shuttle van, I wonderedwhetherthe scenethat unfoldedwasstaged.

“Hey,Elizabeth,” a handsome farmer in awhitetruckcalled out as heslowed. “We’re going clam diggingwiththe kids!”

Thefarmer was Loren Poncia, who raises some of the best grassfedcattle in the valley on his Stemple CreekRanch, outsideoftown. Foramoment,Ifelt like Angela Lansbury in Cabot Covewith the incredibleurgetojumponan old bicycle with abasketand wave back.

Theday became even moresurreal when, justas wenearedour first dairy onthe tour, sheriff’s deputies turned us back onHighway 1,which runsalongtheeasternedgeof TomalesBay.There was an accidentahead:Amilk truck failed to navigate abend in the road and toppledover. Amilk truck? Really?

“Country problems,” Hillsaid, shruggingher shoulders.

Days later,Iwouldreturn for that tour —and meetfarmer Andrew Zlot, who milks the water buffalo athisDouble8Dairy for the creamy gelato.(Notonly isit sold behindthe butcher counter atthe Point Reyes Station market, but Zlot personally deliverscrates of it to San Francisco’sFourBarrel

Rental cottages that overlook the water at Nick’sCove are amongthe most prized accommodationsinTomales Bay.

Coffee, wherebaristas make affogato —scoops of his gelatodrownedin espresso.)

TOMALESBAYISBUSTLING on weekends. Cyclistsin fullLycra regalia clog thecountry roads two deep. Parkedcars line the shoulders of the highway near theoysterfarms. Locals andtouristsalikeline up at theBovine Bakeryfor stickymorning buns.

It’salot for an unincorporated town, especially one thatresists change. Locals hereturned down an offer to install a sewagesystem, afraid it would spark unwanteddevelopment, thenfoundtheirseptic tanks unable to handlethegrowingdemand. At the heightoftourist seasonlast summer, thepristinetownthat can almost beforgiven forbelievingtheir manure doesn’tstink was forcedto park portable toiletsarounddowntown.

There’salso atangible feeling of local lament here. Hand-paintedblue signs still hang on fence poststhat say “Saveour Drakes Bay Oyster Co.,” eventhoughthe familythatran itlost itshigh-profile legal battlelastyear to renewits lease on the Point Reyes NationalSeashore, where thefarm had operatedfor decadesbeforethe area became a national park.

Locals talk about the fire that destroyed theoldlodgeat Manka’s, wherePrince Charles and Camilla oncestayedand dined, asthoughit happened months ago.It has been 10 years.

And folks are still harumphing attherequestbyPandora music founder TimWestergrentobuildan 8,300-square-foot vacationcompound —with atleast10 bathrooms —inthe woods of Inverness onceowned by prayerfulmonks.

“It looks like averytranquil, rural community,but there’salotgoing on,” saidLindaPetersen,who just retiredaspublisher of the WestMarin Citizen newspaper. “That’swhy we had twonewspapers for eightyears. There’salot to writeabout.”

ANDTHERE’S STILLALOT to enjoy.Within minutes of turning around on the highway,Hillhad us nibblingon local cheesesand chutneys and Brickmaidenbreadsand eatingsucculent barbecuedoysters raisedandservedat the HogIsland OysterCo. It’sone oftwofarmsalong theeastern edgeof Tomales Bay that beckon tourists with picnic tables and oystersby the dozen.

“Getyour barbecue oysters while they’rehot!”calledout oneHog Island shuckerfromanoystershack near the beachservingup bivalves and beveragesto abigSunday crowd.

Visitorsare invited to bring picnics and grill their ownmeat onopen grills andshuck theirown oysters on a cherished fewtables closestto thewater thatcan be reserved for$5 per person inadvance for mornings or afternoons. Oryou can buythem shuckedand ready and grab anopen table.

Similar frivolitiescan befounda few minutes down thehighway at Tomales BayOysterCo.,where reservedtablesfor picnicking also book months in advance and carryafee.

ThenearbyMarshall Storealso is acasual, fun spot to stop for lunch or dinneroverlooking thebay,as is Nick’sCove, which offers pricy cottages on thewater for overnight staysand a mostly local menu atits restaurant (althoughit imports some oystersfromBaja).The must-experience,however,isthe Boat Shackat Nick’s Cove, asmall, rusticboathouse atthe endofapier juttingintothe bay from therestaurant. Here, you canwatchthe sunset, playanupright piano andorderdrinksand dinner from a wall-mounted phone that rings to the bar.

When we stepped inside,Billie Holiday wassinging “(InMy)Solitude” on thesmall stereo. Chris stokeda fire inapotbellystove.We satdown atone of just a couple oftables and enjoyed our cocktails. Heaven.

Inmuchof Tomales Bay,you are just aslikely to meetaginghippies telling storiesoftheirdays in acult as you areyounghipstersfrom San Francisco wholook liketheyspend their weekdays commuting on Google buses. At the BoatShack, wemeta creative directorfor PotteryBarn who was orchestrating a photo shoot for itsfall catalog just upthe road near Dillon Beach.We spent the evening chattingwithher teamaswe atemore oysters and finishedwith homemade s’mores we roasted over an open fire.

THEREARENO BIG HOTELS here—no Ritz-Carltons nor Four Seasons, and especially no low-budget Motel 6s.This isaplace ofcottages and inns — and even a yurt. Someof the local ranches areopening their bunkhouses and farmhouses on Airbnb, whereguests canbeawakened by bleating sheepcomingin for amilking.Prices rangefrom the high $100sto $300sper night at many places and evenmorefor fabledplaces likeNick’s Coveand Manka’s.

When we “arrived”at Manka’s, wewere escortedtoour cabin,where a handwritten note from MargaretGrade—who owns Manka’swith her husband, Daniel DeLong —greetedus. The rooms herevaryfromcozy with fireplacesand leather chairs to larger cottages. Westayed our second night atthe Fisherman’s Cabin, wheresoothingnature musicwaftedthrough thehunting lodge-stylespace decoratedwith antlers and overstuffedchairs and agreatfeather-toppedbed for deep sleeping.Perhapsthemost indulgentfeature was the private outdoor showerwith therainfall showerhead. Itwaseasy to forget thedrought as I looked up at the redwoodcanopyand watched birds flyoverhead.

Breakfast isserved in abasket atyour doorstepwith a creative note describing thehyperlocal fare within.Chriscalleditthe best continentalbreakfast he’s“ever, ever,ever”had: “Inverness apples pressed foryour pleasureand servedalongside housemade yogurt over wild West Marin honey under our granola and moreapple —with bunsthatjust jumpedout of the oven.”

At the Fisherman’sCabinthe second morning, wealsowere treatedto“Eva’seggs scrambled withlocal goat’smilkcheese and crowned with crisped prosciutto, thanks to Dr.Pasternak’s pig.” Thatwouldbefarmer Mark Pasternak’s pig fromDevil’sGulch Ranchinnearby Nicasio.

Ittook years, but after the lodge burneddown, Gradeand DeLongfinally opened theSirand Star restaurant atOlema, an old innthey beautifullyupdated. On themenu, you can find“faux gras of local duck liversso deliciousit shouldbeillegal.”

Thecommunities Of Point

ReyesStation, Olema and Inverness serveasgateways tothePoint ReyesNational Seashore, a vast expanse of rolling hills and rugged coastlinecovered inspring with wildflowers. Wespent our second morning drivingpasthistoric ranches datingback to the1850s and out to thePoint ReyesLighthouse,at the very tipofthe headlands thatjut 10 milesouttosea. Thisis thewindiestspot along the Pacific Coastandthesecond-foggiestplacein North America. Thenice walkto theedge ofthe lighthouse requiredhiking up and down stairs theequivalent of a 30-story building,whichis not as rigorous as it sounds. (My husband was determinedtoget back to the topbefore an old lady withacane did.)

Wecould havestayed aweek atTomales Bay,exploring the tiny towns of Point Reyes Station, Olema andTomales and spendingmore timeat the PointReyes NationalSeashore. Before we lefttown, we stopped at Cowgirl Creameryfor someRedHawk cheese, with itsbloomyrind, and freshfromageblanc, as wellasthe Bovine Bakery forgingercookies. Itwas our small wayofbringing alittle bit of Tomales Bayhome withus.

CONTACTJULIAPRODISSULEK

AT408-278-3409. FOLLOWHER ATTWITTER.COM/JULIASULEK.

Takerefugein Carmel

Youcanfillyour dayswith wine tasting and shoppingin Carmel’sadorable downtown, but the place to really unwindis this unusual spa, where blissedout guestswander from eucalyptus steam bathsto burbling hot pools, Pacific-temperatureplungepools and thermal waterfalls. Noreservations, no worries, no limits — plan onspendingatleastafew hours, but you’rewelcometospendthe day in the poolsor draped languorously in an Adirondack chair, swathed in asnowy white robe and contemplating themajesty of the mountain views.Spa-aaahh.

27300Rancho SanCarlosRoad. Fordetails, gotowww.refuge.com.

Zenoutin Saratoga

Needaplace toZen out? Head to Saratoga’s Hakone Estate&Gardens, said tobe theoldest Japaneseestate, retreatand gardensin theWestern Hemisphere. Haveasip atthe traditional tea house,checkoutthe koipond, orsimplytakein allthebotanical beauty.

21000BigBasinWay.

Fordetails, call408-741-4994 orgo towww.hakone.com.

Peepsealsat AñoNuevo

HikeAño Nuevo State Parkin Pescaderofor the beautiful views,interestinghistory and education. Makeitan unforgettable outing by making it a point to see, up close andpersonal, thegiantelephant seals inhabitingthebeaches. Signupforawalking tour, and learn about the portly pinnipeds.

Fordetails, call 650-879-2025 or goto http://bayareane.ws/1R4blc1.

PedalonChilenoValleyRoad

Savethe round-trip fare to Europe for a pedalcloser to home that’sjust asbeautiful asany backroadin Franceor Italy. Chileno Valley Road, near Petaluma, is one of themostscenic cycling roads in theBay Area. Ithas rollingtopography,smoothpavement and usually not much traffic. The hidden highway canbe usedasthecenterpiece for a ride from Petaluma to seeaSanta CruzWarriors D-League basketball game. Youcanaccessthe road from Spring Hill,Tomales Petaluma or Tomales roads.

Bird-watchin Richmond

Sometimes, nothing canbeatan easy, low-keyand cooling outing on ahot day.For justthat,walk along theBayTrail at Stege Marsh in Richmond for spectacular panoramicshoreline views,as well as some of the best bird-watchinginthe area. The marshis north of Point Isabel, andyoudon’thave todealwithtraffic issues to getthere. Simply takethe Bayview overpass across Interstate 580from Carlson Boulevard, turn leftat thefour-way intersection, park inthe cul-desac atSouth51stStreet,thentakethe “secret”path leading to thetrail.Thisis theBay Trail, so walks can be as shortor long as you want to tailor them. Bring binoculars, andkeep an eye out forherons, egrets, avocets andother avianvarietiesfeedingin the marsh.

Fordetails, go towww.pointrichmond.com/baytrail.

Seethelightin PacificGrove

Enlighten yourselfabout a storiedCalifornia landmark bytaking a trip to PointPinos Lighthouse,the WestCoast’soldestcontinuously operatinglighthouse. Thelight, built in 1855 and still an activebeacon, was the second light to be activatedalong California’s then-darkened shoreline. It hasafascinating historythat begins onthe EastCoast, where the light, building materials andinstructions wereshipped around CapeHorn, in South America, and brought to California. Thelightalsohad twomemorablewomen keepers. The first,CharlotteA. Layton, took overafter her husband was killedwhile ridingwith apossein pursuit of abandit.Later, Emily Fish, aka the“Socialite Keeper,”called thatbecauseof her fondnessfor entertaining guestsat thelighthouse, servedas keeper.

80AsilomarAve.Fordetails, go towww.pointpinoslighthouse.org.

Ridetherailsin SuisunCity

Takeatrip to thepastat theWestern RailwayMuseum. Themuseum hasdozensofexamples of electric trains andother vintagerailcars initsdisplayareas, but the best part is taking the11-mile round-trip ride along the original track,nowclosed to all traffic but themuseum’s,which once linked San Franciscoand Sacramento. It’sanoddly calmingandenjoyable ride. Themuseum also offersspecial train trips—wine and wildflowers in April and atripto aspecialpumpkin patch setupnear thetracksin thefall.Picnic areas are available, too. 5848 Highway 12.

5848Highway12. Fordetails, call707-374-2978orgo tohttp://bayareane.ws/1FousIt.

On Pointpinos

Charles Layton tookup residence at PointPinos in 1954 as the lighthouse’s first keeper. After hisdeath the following year, the city named his wife, Charlotte, to the post, becoming the first female lighthouse keeper on the West Coast.

Letthewaveslullyouto sleepin theSteepRavinecabinsat MountTam

Theviewsare nothing short of breathtaking,andlet’sface it, that — combinedwithitsproximityto SanFrancisco —iswhy this place is popular.Cabins, of whichthere are 10,run $100 per night andtend to bookupwithin an hourortwoofwhen theybecome available. There’snoelectricity,no running water (except intworecentadditions:bathrooms with flushing toilets!), no services nor food on site. So whatis there,aside fromthatsweeping view ofcrashing wavesand migrating whales?Peace, quiet,seclusion,a wood stove, a grill and surprisingly plenty of room indoors. Each cabin features woodenplatforms for sleepingup tofive(bringair mattresses) and an indoor picnictablewith benches.Acharminghostwill sellyou firewoodfor $8abundle,and it’sclose enough that you can grab preparedfood onyour wayoutoftown,or wander amile north to Stinson Beach forabite afteryou settle in. Toreserveacabin, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1ETzPSJ.

Placeabetontheponies

Wanttoseeone ofthe greatest jockeysofhis era? Watch Russell BazerideatGolden Gate Fields,onthe edge ofBerkeleyand Albany.Whileseeinganyother world-class athletein action couldcost hundreds of dollars,if yougo on Sunday,you can seeBazefor a buck. And withthe live trumpeter,thehorses and thecolorful silks,aday atthe track canbe funfor the wholefamily. You will havetolaylittleJohnny’sbet down for him, though,and settle up in theparkinglot.

1100EastshoreHighway.For details, call510-559-7300.

Explorethecity’sruins

When you hear“ruins,”you mightthinkPompeii, but on the western edge ofSan Francisco, amore modern ruin attracts hikersandsightseers everyday.The skeleton of theoldSutroBaths, an enormous aquariumandpublic swimmingfacilitybuilt in the19th century,sits in a hollow in the cliffsover OceanBeach and servesas areminderof theglorydays ofearly San Francisco. Visitorscan seewhere seven pools onceaccommodated10,000 bathers a day.

680 PointLobosAve.For details,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1JLYJ54.

Motor(orpaddle)at DelValle

LakeDel Valle, in Livermore,issurrounded byrolling hillsand—mostimportantly — hits summer temperatures hot enoughtomakeswimming a joyandarelief. And here you don’thave tosettle for a shorelinedip, because amenagerieof boats areavailable to rent. Water lovers can choosefromcanoes,rowboats andpedal boats, but for those who simplywant tosunandswim, thebestoption is the pontoon: a shaded, floating patio withamotor. Putterouttothe middle of the lake,kill themotor,andjump.You’dbe smartto arrive early to scoreoneofthesepopular boats.

Fordetails, gotowww.ebparks.org/parks/del_valle.

Showadatethestars

Pitch woo after dark atChabot Space &Science Center, in Oakland’sredwoodforest. Onceamonth,thecenter hasadiningoption, followedbyanactivity: night hikes,science experiments,amovie —everymonth is different.Who knewsciencecouldbe so romantic?

10000Skyline Blvd.For details,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1DDAEIi.

EscapethemassesinS.F.

Sure, you couldgreaseup and squeezeinto the mobbed, weed-saturatedhills of Dolores Park on a sunnyday.Or you coulddrive 10 moreminutestoJohn McLaren Park, 312mostly hipster-free acres ofgreen just beyond the Excelsior. Whatever you candoat DoPa,you can do atMcLaren — plus hike,swim, golf and nature-gaze.It’sthesecond-largestpark inSan Francisco, and it’sabout time someonediscovered it.

Fordetails, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1JaIiij.

TraceJackLondon’slife

Theauthorboughthis “BeautyRanch” in 1905and took upfarming —afteralife ofworking on the Oakland waterfront, prospecting gold in Alaska and sailing thePacific.Thispark has morethan 10 miles of trails that meander throughmeadows andoak woodlands, as wellasthe ruins of Jack London’sWolfHouse mansion, Beauty Ranch buildings,amuseum andhis grave.

Fordetails, go tohttp://jacklondonpark.com.

BatheinSonomaCounty

OsmosisDay Spaand Sanctuaryturnsrelaxation into high art. It offers“CedarEnzyme Baths,”outdoor pagodamassages along the forestedbanks of Salmon Creekandso muchmore.If thatweren’tpeaceful enough, Osmosisalso boasts a Japaneseteagarden and a meditation garden.

209 Bohemian Highway.Fordetails, goto www.osmosis.com.

Teeoffin PacificGrove

Takethe golfclubs toPacific GroveGolfLinks and pay three-fourths of the price ofnearby Spanish Bay,but getthesameviewof theoceanand sanddunesfrom thescenic backnine.Beforeorafter theround,tour thelighthouse, which is nearthe 10th tee. Go downtown for abite atPeppers(170Forest Ave.), IlVecchio (110 CentralAve.)orthenewlyremodeled Beach House atLovers Point (620 Ocean ViewBlvd.).

77Asilomar Blvd.Fordetails, go towww.playpacificgrove.com.

WandertheNilesdistrict

Takeaquestinto Fremont’scinematicpast bywandering throughFremont’sNilesdistrict. Lovers of old films willadore the historicNiles EssanaySilent Film Museum(37417 NilesBlvd.),where Broncho Billyand CharlieChaplin mademovies.

Takeawalking tour to seethe smallhomes where thefilm crew members lived. And there areofferings for antiquers, too: About a dozenlarge shops offer a wide rangeof relics, from finefurnitureto modern kitsch. And don’tmisstheannualAntiqueFaireand FleaMarket, whichis onAug.30this year.Hungry? HaveabiteandaglassofwineatTheVine(37553 NilesBlvd.)—amongsouthern Alameda County’sbest hidden culinarygems.

And for a truly memorable tripback intime,takea scenicride onthe NilesCanyonRailway,on theNational Registerof HistoricPlaces, for a nostalgictaste of small-town America beforethe1960s.

Stepbackintimein PortCosta

Accessible onlybyafewwindy roads from Crockett or Highway 4, Port Costa — a tinycommunityon the edge ofthe Carquinez Strait —is likethe town that time forgot. Stop in TheatreofDreamsto peruse the selection of handmadedecortreasures.

Dine at The BullValley Roadhouse(great cocktails, andthe buttermilkfried chickenand the macaroni gratin are standouts). Haveanightcap or three at the Warehouse Cafe, offering a staggering selectionof beers and, often, live music. And,if you’ve had one too many,holeupfor the night at the The Burlington Hotel,aformer partydestination for out-of-towners that’sknownfor itsrowdy, colorful and, some say, mysterious history (some folks claim theplace is haunted).

Thenext morning, gazeout over the water whileenjoyingbrewed-by-the-cup coffee, pastriesand artisan bacon from thehotel’scafe. Bestofall:All of these places are within a block ofone another — and the water.