ON THELAKES ANDTRAILSOFTAHOE

BYELLIOTTALMOND PHOTOGRAPHSBYMAXWHITTAKER

Stepping into the dark onasun-drenched day in the High Sierrareally doesanumber on perception.Theeyesgo first, from squinting in refractive light to flailingin blackness until theretina has timetoadjust. Swaggerinthe gait erodeswith each forward step. Timeslows,then fades to black.

TheSummit Tunnel hikeatDonner Passis like tiptoeing into anotherdimension, unknowntoalmost everyone arrivingatLakeTahoefor agetaway.Traffic streams pastonInterstate 80with adistantwhoosh. Those driversonahastyretreat down the serpentine roadwaymight briefly notice therailroadtunnels on a southern ridge ofDonner Pass.

But they’renot givingthisotherworldlysliceof Tahoe muchthoughton the way toski slopes, golf coursesand casinos. Theyknownothingof theeerie granitearches decoratedby graffiti artists,creating an imageofasubterranean BalmyAlleyin the Mission.

I’m not surewhat to expect uponentering thedank cavern,wherethe sun’swarmth goesto die.Shivering from the quick temperaturedip,stumbling into pools of water in the blackout, mypictureof this land starts taking on a whollydifferent form.

Tostare into thesapphire-blue faceofTahoeisto grapple withperspective. Somany archivalmileposts to consider, includingthisabandoned stretchofthe intercontinental railroad, built bytheblisteredhands of Chineselaborers. Unearthingsuch historical morsels is likepulling loosecoinsoutof the crevicesofa worn sofa.

It took BayArea historian ScottLankford years to realizeit.“IthoughtIknewTahoelike the back of myhand, butIhadn’tflippedmy handover,”says the author of “TahoeBeneath theSurface.”“Iknewwhere to ski, Iknewwheretoclimb, Iknewwheretofish,I knew where to hike,Iknewwheretoboat. But Idid not know anythingaboutwhereIwas.The place is a nexus of historical forces that are deeply powerful.”

Since Lt. John C. Frémont became thefirst explorer to casteyesupon thecrystallinewaters — in 1844 —Tahoehasbeentuggedand pulledbyAmerican expansionism. Firstcame the49ersontheirwayto theSierragoldfields. Tenyearshence,opportunists decimated surrounding pineforeststosupport Nevada’s Comstock Lode.

Environmental issuesremain central to theTahoe experience, just asthey wereatthe beginning of the20thcentury,when famed naturalist John Muir campaignedto create anationalpark here.John SteinbeckandMark Twain wereamongthose who leftfootprints.

Starting from Donner Summit, inthe northwest corridor,I’dcircumnavigate the72-mile shoreline looking for breadcrumbs of historyin the BayArea’s favorite backyard playground.

But allthathas to wait. The trip starts inside the rock-sculpted railroad bunkersbuiltinthe 1860sto bridgethe Eastwith San Francisco.

That’swhenthe ground starts to shake violently.

The writernavigates his way throughmostly abandoned traintunnels nearDonner Pass,part ofa3-miletrail. Previousspread: FallenLeaf Lake is justsouthofLakeTahoe.

FARFROMTHE BLACKJACKTABLES AT touristyStateline, Nevada, southsidersfind refugein thepine-scentedvillage ofMarkleeville.Anatural hot tub with stunning vistasofcrumbly peaks inspires the45-minutedrive from SouthLake Tahoe to Kit Carson country.Grover HotSprings State Parkis an antidote to the high-priced resortspas of Swedish massages and mud baths.

What the springlacksin amenitiesit more than makes upfor in value. For$7,visitors can enjoya 1½-mileround-triptramp to a waterfall, or 4½miles to BurnsideLake. Whateverone’sphysicallimit, the reward isagood soak atthe finish line.

Most, though, forgothe trails to enjoy therejuvenating warmth of the copper-coloredmineral water that rises to the surfaceat148 degrees before it’s cooledinholdingtanks above thepools.

Molten rock burrowedundergroundhas heatedthe springs since beforetheice age.Geologic tumult eventually ledtoseepageto the surface,wherethe Washoe people oncesettled. TheWashoe people’s9,000-year historyaroundTahoeoften has beenovershadowed by therelativelyrecent Eurocentriccultural domination. But it hasn’t beencompletelyblottedout, thanks to such events as theannual summer WaShe Shu It’ Deh Native American Arts Festival, atthe TallacHistoricSite, near South Lake Tahoe’sCampRichardson.

TheTahoename,which becameofficialin 1945, came from the Washoes’ descriptions ofthe lake. Howeverit transpired,it’smoreapropos than the once-common “LakeBigler,”inhonor of California’s third governor.

TheWashoeshad asummer camp atnearbyTaylor Creek —similarto Camp Richardson.This woody section includes Fallen LeafLake, residing in theshadow of Desolation Wilderness, one of the state’sfinest backpackingdestinations.

Thegrowth of the Richardsonfamilyresort paralleled shoreline development thatsprouted stately homes for the1percentersofthe1930s.Camp Richardson hasremainedafamily-oriented refuge,likethe Markleeville hot springs.

Miles away,however, another famouslodgepays homagetoadifferent wayoflife.

GEORGEWHITTELLJR.’SLAVISH ESTATELIES far below theFlume Trail, belovedby mountain bikers andoncethevein thatsent virgin timberdown to VirginiaCity.Theacreageis lodged intothe rockygranite cliffs overlooking the lake,justoffthehighway.

TheThunderbird Lodge is asymbol of the wealthy who developed Tahoe’sshoreline,29 percentof which lies inNevadabecause of amapping error.

Whittell’sfamilybuiltafortune through San Francisco real estate. Thesciontook $50 million out of the stock markettobuild inTahoe and also asecluded 50-acre estate in Woodsidethat nowisKings Mountain Vineyards.

Whittellintended to erect waterfront palacesand acasino inthe 1930swhen purchasing40,000 acres, whichincluded 27 milesofshoreline.Those plans faded because thestrappingWhittell didn’tcare for people. Insteadofdeveloping,the San Francisco millionaire “gaveusthewhole eastern shorein pristine condition,” says Sue Bernheisel, thevolunteercoordinatorfor ThunderbirdLodgePreservation Society, whichownsand manages theproperty.

Societymembers have come tocallthe eccentric Whittelltheir“accidentalconservationist.”Theyare thestewards ofabygone era,usingfundraisers, tours, weddings andspecialevents to safeguardtheThunderbird from modern-dayencroachment.

“He leftustheeastshore,”says Bernheisel,who grew upin SanLeandro. “It’sthe flavor ofLakeTahoe from thattime, and we lostthat”elsewhere.

Thepreservation societyformedin1999totake over the5.8-acreproperty.Its90-minutetour starts attheIncline Village visitorcenter beginningin mid-May.Thegroupalsogivestoursin Whittell’s famous woodenyacht,with airplane engines thatroar to life. At leasttheydowhen thelakethat descendsa mind-numbing 1,645 feetisn’tsuffering from current droughtconditions.

That’sOK. I cameto Tahoefor solitude.

THESUNHASSLIPPED BEHIND THEFOREST, sending theslightestchillthroughamuffledwind. Impressionistreflections on thesmoothsurfaceof the Little TruckeeRivermirrorthetree-covered riverbank. At that moment, BryceBennettshatters the serenity withadeclarative,“Got it.”

Wearing a big grin, he handsmethepliantrod to haul inaplump14-inchbrown trout at oneofhis favoritefishingholesnortheastof Tahoe.

“Slowly,”Bennettsays asIturn thecrankwith my lefthand.

Ihaven’ttried fly-fishingin 30years. Backthen,we set out inwestern Montana to one of those worldclasslocalesNormanMaclean wroteabout in“A River RunsThroughIt.”Our goal was to retrievethe main entree for a wedding rehearsaldinner.Thegroom-tobe insistedwe were on acan’t-miss mission.

Ishouldhave known better. Imade suchamess of my rod and reelupon first casting that myfriend spent moretime attendingto methan fishing. Onthe way back, we stopped by afriend’shouse tocollect frozen fishfor the hungrywedding party.

Now,as apregnant white moonbegins torise abovetheforest, Ihaveone task: Reelthe squirming speckled trout to shorefor aphoto opand, ultimately, his welcomedrelease.

Before heading to theriver, Ihad touredtheUC Davis TahoeScience CenterinIncline Village to learn about the area’s aquatichealth.The research project withSierraNevadaCollegeprovides anintroduction to what’sat stake.

Change is the watchword for thoseworriedabout Tahoe’sonce-robustfishery.Human handiwork and climatechange have conspiredtoimpactthestock.

For$7, visitorsto Grover HotSprings in Markleevillecantake a short hike to a waterfall, or a slightlylonger jaunttoalake.But themain attraction is a thermal poolwithapicturesquebackdrop.

Inthelate1880s,for instance, well-meaning souls introducedmackinawtrout to LakeTahoetohelp boost fishing.Thenew species,however,overwhelmed native inhabitants. Oops. Sevenendemicspeciesremain in the lakealong with 10non-natives, whichinclude, alas, goldfish.

After “winning” our spirited battle withthebrown trout, wesetout down the rushingrivertofind Bennett’sfather,Stan, who didnot share ourluck this early Mayeveningalong the oldCalifornia trail that brought pioneers westdecades before therailroad.

Ruminatingabout wagon trains thatrumbled past here eonsago,we hike up anddown theriversearchingforopportunity.Inthepast four years,Bryce Bennetthasscouted every section of the riverfrom Tahoe City,miles from wherehestood casting a line as gracefully as a ballet dancer.

Which is an oddimage,come tothink ofit. Bennett, 22, is the2014U.S.downhill champion, thelatest memberofthegreatTahoeskierspopulatingthenational team roster. He’sa6-foot-7-inchapproximation ofaspeeding missilewhenstrappingonskis.Fly-fishingmight seem contrarytoanadrenalinejunkie, but Bennettfindsparallels in histwin passions.

“I found it challenging,”hesays offishing. “There is so much technique involved. Then,youhave tolearn theriver, what bugsarehatchingandwhat the fish are eating. It’ssimilarto skiing, because the conditions are alwayschanging.”

BENNETT’S PROMISING SKI CAREER CANBE tracedtoanother historical monumenttotheregion. Thefirst recorded organizedski raceinU.S. history took placein 1867 northwest of Tahoe in theGold RushtownofLaPorte, where minersused long wooden planks to seewhogotdown thehill the fastest. What else werethey going to do when maritime storms coveredtheirminefieldswithcottony flakes?

TheSquawValleySki Resort, outsideofTahoeCity, opened inthe 1940s,like manyofthe lake’sfamed slopes. But it was Squaw Valley that put Tahoeon theskiingmapby playinghosttothe1960 Winter Olympics.Otherthanthe athleticcenter,now called theOlympicHouse, mostof thegames’ structures no longer existatSquaw Valley,whichhassince merged withaneighboring skiresort andisone of America’s largestskiareas.

Twoyears ago,folksin TahoeCityopened the cozy MuseumofSierraSkiHistoryand 1960Winter Olympics onthe second floor of TheBoatworks Mall. Among the famedTahoeresidents spotlighted is Tamara McKinney,athree-timeOlympicskier who in 1983 becamethe firstAmericanwoman to win the overall World Cup title,afeat not duplicateduntil LindseyVonncame along 25 years later.

McKinney,51, isasuccessfulreal estate agent these days,but shecontinuestohelp groom the next generation of Squaw Valley ski racers, including Francesca, her engaging teenage daughter, and their friendBryce Bennett.

Tamara andFrancesca live aboveOlympicValley,

Bryce Bennettchecks his linewhile fishing ontheLittleTruckee River. Bennett,a22-year-oldU.S.downhillchampion, likens fishing to skiing: “The conditionsarealways changing.” wheretheycanseethe first hint of snowalongthe raggedridgesof Squaw Valley’sslopes.Tamarapoints out some of her favorite runsaswe climbthrough ShirleyCanyononanother one of those spectacular Tahoe dayhikes.

Thescenic 5-miletrek begins attheend ofthe resort, near whereMcKinneyoncelived. Onhotsummer days, anentrepreneurial Francescaused tosell lemonadetoparched hikersreturning from Shirley Lake.

Tamara leads an ascentoverthe rockytrail with Daisy,the Saint Bernard. Tamaradescribes Shirley Canyon as oneofthe area’s premier late-springhikes becauseofthe water.Thepathfollows Squaw Creek up 1,300feet. About halfwaytothe lake hikersarrive ataseries of cascades with inviting swimming holes. It’stheperfectdestination foranyonelooking for a picnicground and a cold dipin the snow-fed stream.

Thetrailbecomesmore challengingafter the waterfalls,with some steeppitchesovergranite slabs. Tamara andDaisyboundedup the smooth, hard rock as naturallyasthe breeze that ruffles the conifers. Retracing stepson thesetricky descents can bedaunting for thelesssure-footed. But Tamarahas a solution a milebeyondShirleyLake.

“Youcan alwaystake thetramdown,”she says. Squaw Valley’saerial tram, atthe 8,200-foot High Camp, opened May22 and runsthroughAug.30 this year. Italso is scheduled tooperate on weekends in September. Hikerstakingthe 2,000-vertical-foot ride down don’thave to pay.

Wehave nochoice buttohoof it downthe dusty trail, withalate afternoon light darting throughfallen treesscattershot across the understory.Francesca’s refreshmentstand is notwaitingat thebottom, as those days are but distant memories.But Tamara offeredanalternative: ajar oflemonade and gluten-free garlicchips at Fireside Pizza Company,at theSquaw ValleyVillage.

THE SHAKING WE FEELISTHE RESULTOF AN approaching truck in the railroadtunnel, our starting place. Would we meetour doom nearthe infamous spot wheremembers of theDonner Partyresortedto cannibalism to survive the harshwinterof1846?We just don’tknow for sure.

Hikingguidesdescribe the railroad tunnel excursion as a 3-miletrail thatincludes Washoe petroglyphs and the ChinaWall, near Rainbow Bridge, above Donner Lake. Mostsay nothing about Union Pacific Railroad trucks rumbling through the tunnels, slicing the eeriesilence withthe commotionof an armoredvehicle.Althoughthe railroad owns the property,the workerswelcome uswith quick waves as they pass.

Afascination with thetunnelsandasense of reliefkeepusgoing for miles, shining headlamps andretreatinginto theshadows whenever trucks squeeze through. Wepush onand oninto adarkness that illuminates the surprising ways Tahoe’sspiritis burnished into our souls. Deeper and deeperuntilthe echoesoftime transport us to a higher realm.

FOLLOWELLIOTTALMONDATTWITTER.COM/ ELLIOTTALMOND.

Strollrightup toawaterfall

Hikingnutstend to insistthatthe best sights canbe seenonlyafter daylongtreksoverabarelypossible mountain pass, but here'sone you can takegrandmother to:McWayFalls at Julia Pfeiffer BurnsState Parkin Big Sur,an80-foot cascade that tumblesover acliffand ontothe beach.It’ssaidto beone of the few suchconfigurations anywhere, andthebest viewingis aneasy half-milestroll tothe overlook.

Yes,easy hikes meancrowded hikes,soyou'll want to getthereearly tonaboneofthe freeparkingspots and avoid the $10 feeinthe nearby lot. Hoping to persuadeyour teenageson togo along?Justtell him McWayFallsmakes an appearanceinthe videoforDr. Dre’s“INeedaDoctor.”Fun for thewhole family!

For details, gotohttp://bit.ly/1iznodl.

Geekouton beerin Chico

Thebeermakerthat startedthecraftbreweryboom on the WestCoast isjustashort drive awayin Chico, but getahotel.You’llneedit after samplingthe nearly 20 varietieson tap atSierraNevadaBrewingCo., many of whichare hard tofind outside of Chico.The second-largest craft brewery in the nation, known for itstrademark pale ale, offers informative tours with tastings,includingalonger onecalledthe BeerGeek Tour.Reservations for the freetourare essential.And, come fall, SierraNevadahosts a popularOktoberfest event,but the6,000 ticketsto thetwo-day music, food and beerfestival sellout quickly.

For details, gotowww.sierranevada.com.

CruiseShastaLakein style

Evenwhen California’s largest reservoirishalf-emptyduringadrought, it’sstill huge.Youcanrent a floating home forafew daysand motor around the lake withthe windinyour face,feelinglikeLeonardo DiCaprio—withoutthe icebergs,of course.The best timetogois spring,when thelakeis highest,the bald eaglesareflying, the wildflowers are blooming, thebass are biting andthenoisy skiboatsarestill parkedin driveways. Prices are cheaper then,too.A three-night houseboat rental in theoffseasoncancost as little as $650for aboatthatsleeps six,butfor a top-shelf experience, youcan shellout $6,000 for a triple-deck,65-footboat thatsleeps26.Seven marinas rent houseboats.

For details, searchtheWeborgoto http://bit.ly/1PvpZpY.

Takean ambitioustripnorth

Wantto venturenorthward? Foratrulymemorable trip, takeseveraldays forthisthree-partjourney. First,while away an afternoon in Crockettwith good friends anddrinks (no corkage!),sizzling crab and shrimp on the patio ofTheDead Fish (20050 San Pablo Ave.),above the CarquinezStrait, overlooking a broad vistaofVallejo, MareIsland, thebayandMount Tamalpais, as sail and powerboats, tugs andfreighters ply the waters below. Then stopby Lucas Wharf (595 Highway1)inBodegaBayforafresh, scrumptious all-seafoodmeal. For thelastpartofyour trip,spend afew daysat OceanViewLodge(1141 N.Main St.) in FortBragg,wherethe rooms, each with a small deck, look across an open bluff to thePacificOcean,and youcanseetheMilky Wayatnight. Sitoutside your room, andwatchthehawks,buzzards, gulls andother birds glidealongin theoffshore breeze. Check www. fortbragg.com/events forlocal events, suchas crab and cioppinofeeds,the Whale Festival or the annual World'sLargest Salmon BBQ.

BringRufusalongtoBoonville

Loveto getawayfrom thehubbub of the big city but don’tliketo leaveyour beloved dogs athome?Sheep DungEstates,about 100 milesnorthof San Francisco, near Boonville,offers beautiful cottages on 800 acres ofglorious countryside whereyoucan kick back and enjoytheviews, andthe pets canrununtil they’rereadytodrop.Thecottages areequipped withmodern kitchens, Wi-Fiand hot tubs and are spread out so thatwhen you’resitting onyour front porch, youcan’tseeanyoneelsearound.Oncethe dogsarepoopedandcurled up, thehumans can dine in quaint Boonville,or check outsome of the nearbywineries.Andforanostalgictouchof home, theowners installedoneof thehuge DoggieDiner heads that usedtoadorn therestaurants all overthe Bay Area.

Hikeat HetchHetchy

Oftenoverlookedwhen traveling toYosemite, Hetch Hetchy is worththe effort. Ifthe Disneyland-long lines atYosemite are too much for the famtohandle —who stands in a queuetosee awaterfall? —check out the muchless crowded Hetch Hetchy,which packs peaceful vibes andboasts beautiful scenery.

For details, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1PZjCNJ.

On Bodegabay

Whilethereis much fishing to do here, the crab fisheryin Bodega Bay is particularly popular during the Dungeness season, which typically runs fromearly November to the endofJune.

Noneedforahotel:KickbackinahouseboatontheDelta

Amere90 minutes from the BayArealiestheSacramento-San Joaquin River Delta,aslow,warm, quietandtimeless place that can feel morelikeLouisianathan California. Howbest to appreciate suchachange of pace?Change yourown,via houseboat. These floating apartments can makefor adownrightaffordablevacation —noneedtospringforlodging,after all — not to mention a fun one. Outon thewater, you're asovereign nation, beholden onlytothe tides, yourwish for another beer or thepersonwhojustpushed youinto thewarmriver. —ChrisColin

Catchaflickin thesticks

Remember movietheaters?Sure you do — picture a giant Netflix. But there are theaters,andthere are rural theaters. Russian River'sRio Theater—redwoodshere, meandering riverthere—isone of theneatestplaces to catchafirst-run flick. Built into a World WarII Quonset hut,the Rio is in some ways the cultural epicenter ofthe tiny town of MonteRio. Itdoesn'treally matter whatyou see;fortwohours,you'llwarpbackto asimplertime and place.And afterthe credits,you'll cannonballinto thewater.

20396BohemianHighway.For details, go towww.riotheater.com.

Takeatriptotheapplecapital

Thiscollection of appleranches inthe Sierrafoothills along Highway 50 is worth atrip east allonitsown duringharvestseason, but it’sanespeciallyenticing stoponthe wayto or from SouthLake Tahoe. While each orchard and farm stand has its charms, two of thelargest are an applecore’sthrow from eachother: BoaVista Orchards (2952 Carson Road, Placerville), whichis open all year and boasts an outstanding bake shopandalushU-Pick pumpkin patch, and High HillRanch(2901 High HillRoad,Placerville), which is open the FridaybeforeLabor Dayand hasabit more fun for thekids,including a trout pond and a craftfair.Comewinter, ventureabit farthereast, and cutdown aChristmas treeatHarris TreeFarm(2640 Blair Road, Pollock Pines). Oncethe tree’stied to the top of your car,you’llwant to grab a frozen pie or two,aswell.

Fordetails, gotowww.applehill.com.

Explorelavatubecaves

Makesure tobring extra flashlights as youexplore some of the hundreds of lavatubecavesthatLava Beds National Monument has to offer — without a guide. It’slikegoingback intime andreinventing yourselfasanexplorer.There are caves of varying degrees ofdifficulty,andtheeasiest, MushpotCave, is the only lit caveinthe park.In addition tospelunking, check outthe manyhiking trails, cinder cones andobsidianflows. Theterrain is fascinating, and you won’tseealotofpeople.The Indian Well Campgroundisthe onlyonein thepark,but nearby MedicineLakeisalsoatreasure.Plentyofmotels and bed-and-breakfasts are within close range if camping, or glamping,isn’tyour thing.

Fordetails, gotowww.nps.gov/labe/index.htm.

RelivetheGoldRush

If you wentto elementary school in California, the merementionofColomalikely bringstomindfourthgradelessons about the GoldRush. Nestled in the foothills along Highway49,betweenAuburn and Placerville,Marshall Gold DiscoveryState Historic Parkis a goodreal-worldreminder of what our state was likewhenJames Marshall found those shining flecks inthe American River in 1848 — andasolid antidote to realityTV such as“Gold Rush.”Guided walking tours are available, though it'sjust asfun to pokearound theold buildingsand the replicaof Sutter’sMill on your own. And on LivingHistory Days,the second Saturdayofeach month, you’ll getto seedocentsdressed up in period garbsharing more historical bits.

Fordetails, go towww.coloma.com

On Coloma

Whitewater rafting trips are availableonthe South Fork of the AmericanRiver for adventurers of allskill levels, with trips starting or ending in Coloma.

Gogeothermalat Lassen

If you’rein the northcountry,checkout Lassen Volcanic National Park, where you canexplore the many geothermal features, includingfumaroles, mudpots andcolorful boilingpools. Take a5-mileround-trip hike toLassen Peak, which now isopenallthe way afterafive-year restorationproject. The park also boastsendlessbackwoods trails and pristinewildernesscamping sites, includingspots atManzanita Lake andother nearbylakes.If yourequirethecomforts of home, Drakesbad GuestRanch isyour place.

For details, go towww.nps.gov/lavo/index.htm.

StockupinSutterCreek

TheGoldRushtownofSutter Creekis booming again. Thelatestaddition toits charming Main Street is Sutter CreekProvisions(78 MainSt.), an artisan market, craft beeremporium andmodern honky tonk in an atmospheric 1869 rough-hewnstonebuilding. Loadup on gourmet picnic supplies,and head to nearbyShenandoahValley wineries, or settleinat the family-friendly bar with weekendlive music. There aremore tunes in the old vault wheretheowners broadcastan American roots radio show.Makeit a weekendat modern Hanford House Inn(61 Hanford St.),justafew doors down.

TakeaYosemitesidetrip

Driving intoYosemite from its southernentrance, all visitorspass through theblink-and-miss-it town of Oakhurst.Blink atyour peril. Clutchedaroundtwo intersectinghighways, this smallspur ofcivilization in the SierraNevada foothills boasts a surprisingly robust artsscene,the refreshingly unpretentious Idle HourWinery(41139 Highway 41)andevenafivestardestination restaurant, Erna's ElderberryHouse (48688 Victoria Lane). Onceasupplier to mines and lumber companies, Oakhurst isnowaquiet,piney outpost —just10 miles from glittering BassLake, a worthystopallits own.

Gearup forgrilling

Carnivores, rejoice.TravelHighway 88 toLockeford, and fill your cooler withbratwurst, bangersorother varietiesofsausages —hotItalian, Hawaiianorpesto, anyone?—at Lockeford Meat & Sausage Services.See thelinesnaking out the door? There’sareason for that.

19775N.Cotton St.Fordetails,goto 209-727-5584.

Gettoknowtheshakyground

If you’reat Pinnacles National Park to hike orcamp or just takearide down togawk atthespires,don’tleave without checking out the visitor center at the Hollister side of the park.The center not only tracks ground movement, but also shows howthe Pinnacles areactuallyhalf ofamountain range, the other halfnow being severalhundred milessouth, around LosAngeles. Learning about how long it took for therangestoseparate gives youastriking sense ofgeology and time.

For details, go towww.nps.gov/pinn/index.htm.

PokearoundhistoricLocke

Stepinto thepast atthe LockeHistoricDistrict,located betweenStockton and Sacramento. Built byChinese immigrants 100 years ago,the district roseatatime when Asian immigrants couldnot own land.The buildings,which are muchthe same now as then, housea visitorcenter,two museumsand somerestaurants.

For details, go towww.locketown.com.

Tastewinein Murphys

ThetownofMurphys is known toGoldRushhistorians as having been one of the state’srichest “diggins.” Butthis small town increasinglyisbecomingknown as a wine destination, whereboutiquewineries are welcoming of visitors seeking tastings and tours. With about 23wineries intown andnearby,oenophiles can spend along weekendand still notbeableto makeit to all the tastingrooms.

For details, go tohttp://visitmurphys.com.

Wanderin NevadaCity

Youknowthatideal mountain town, perfect for wanderingup and down its quaint streets, andinandout of its antique shops? That'sNevadaCity.Grab adrink attheMineShaft (222Broad St.)or the CrazyHorse (230 Commercial St.)—both aredelightfully divey drinking emporiums, about ablock from each other. Nevada Cityand especiallyneighboringGrass Valley (which boasts similar charm, but is a bit more working-class) are famous for theirCornish pasties. Eat up.