PERAK SULTANATE - The Historic Royal Glory of Perak Tengah by ThinkingEyes

UNIVERSITI TEKNOLOGI PETRONAS

Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS | The New Straits Times Press (Malaysia) Berhad

Perak Sultanate T H E

H I S TORIC

ROYA L

GLORY

PERA K

SHAHRINA MD NORDIN

Shahrina Md Nordin | Abdul Jalil Hamid

T ENGA H

Perak Sultanate

Perak Sultanate T H E

H I S TO RIC

ROYA L

GL ORY

P E RA K

T E N G A H

Shahrina Md Nordin | Abdul Jalil Hamid

His Royal Highness Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah

Her Royal Highness Tuanku Zara Salim

Foreword

would like to extend our utmost gratitude to the Sultan of Perak, His Royal Highness Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah for consenting to the publication of this book, Perak Sultanate: Historic Royal Glory in Perak Tengah.

This book, with its fascinating stories seen through the heritage of the Perak sultanate and traditional Malay community in this Silver State, recognises the importance of cultural continuity and human history in nourishing social cohesion. The rich historical tapestry that’s been woven in the following pages offers readers a sense of belonging – to the culture and place – and this in turn, creates the context from which one is able to understand the past and contemplate the future. Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS (UTP) has long embraced the fact that it is a part of the community of Perak Tengah. The people and community are at the heart of the university’s agenda, and this has been demonstrated through many of our Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives. We remain steadfast in our CSR endeavours and are always mindful of the influence and positive impact the university wields and can wield on the broader society. As a citizen of Perak Tengah, UTP is humbled and honoured to play a role in documenting the textured history and heritage of the Perak sultanate. We believe that the preservation of our cultural heritage is essential to sustainable development, and we hope that this book serves as an important reference for scholars, historians and citizens. I wish to express my heartiest gratitude and congratulations to those involved in the production of this book. I invite you to enjoy the rich stories of this book and I hope that you gain not only a greater understanding and appreciation of the past, but are also inspired for the future.

Datuk Ir (Dr) Abdul Rahim Hashim Vice Chancellor | Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS 9

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah during his enthronement as the 35th Sultan of Perak at Istana Iskandariah, 6 May 2015. NSTP PHOTO / Aizuddin Saad

Preface

he current scenery of Perak Tengah does not leave much evidence that the district was once the centre of glory and the heart of socioeconomic activities of the state. Small towns such as Bota and Bandar Seri Iskandar give little indication of what was once the picture of true greatness in the history of the Perak Sultanate. Almost 500 years ago, Perak Tengah was the centre of royal residences and prospered through socioeconomic activities such as tin mining. Continuing the magnificent legacy of the Melaka Sultanate, the Perak Sultanate continues to flourish after more than 400 years. Sultan Muzaffar Shah I, the heir of Sultan Mahmud Shah of Melaka, became the first ruler of the Perak Sultanate when he was enthroned at Tanah Abang, now known as Teluk Bakong. The royal splendour is still seen today through the 35th Sultan, His Royal Highness Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah. The history of the Perak Sultanate has been told and retold in a number of history books and documents. This book, however, takes a more specific focus. The narrative unveils the history of the Perak Sultans who either resided or were entombed in the district of Perak Tengah. The district is an essentially significant location as it has borne witness to the beginning of the Perak Sultanate. The narratives in this book were put together based on records in numerous history resources. Some of the most noteworthy are A History of Perak by R.O.Winstedt and R.J.Wilkinson (1934), Sejarah Perak by Buyong Adil (1972), Abode of Grace: A Study of an Eighteenth Century Malay State by Barbara Watson Andaya (1976), and Cempaka Sari written by Fawzi Basri (1986). This book shall benefit many especially the younger generation in the continued effort of conservation and preservation of our precious history.

1528, where it all began ... Beting Beras Basah, where Sultan Muzaffar Shah I set foot in 1528, marking the beginning of the Perak Sultanate. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah waves as he wades through the water during the Setting Foot ceremony at Beting Beras Basah, 14 May 2015. The enthronement of a Perak Sultan concludes with the ceremony at Beting Beras Basah. The enthronement of the Perak Sultan encompasses six major ceremonies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Â Commencement Ceremony, Customary Enthronement, Invocation of Blessings, Pilgrimage to the Royal Tombs, Setting Foot on Beting Beras Basah and Completion Ceremony (The Star, 9 May 2015). DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION 14

The enthronement of Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah was an elaborate and majestic affair, steeped in tradition. Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah waves from the Balai Gambang, a decorated royal barge, as he visits the tombs of the five previous sultans located on the banks of Sungai Perak. BERNAMA PHOTO 16

Raja Muda Perak Raja Nazrin Shah and Raja Puan Besar Tuanku Zara Salim with their children, Raja Azlan Muzzaffar Shah, 4, and Raja Nazira Safya, 9 months, after the investiture ceremony in conjunction with Sultan Azlan Shahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthday celebration at Istana Iskandariah, Kuala Kangsar, 22 May 2012. The ceremony which was annually held on 19th April was rescheduled to observe the 40-day mourning period for the passing of Raja Ashman Shah, the Raja Kechil Besar of Perak, who passed away on 30 March 2012. NSTP PHOTO / L Manimaran 18

Raja Kechil Besar Perak Raja Azlan Muzzaffar Shah and his sister, Raja Nazira Safya, during the enthronement ceremony of their father, Sultan Nazrin Muizziddin Shah, as the 35th Sultan of Perak at Istana Iskandariah, 6 May 2015. NSTP PHOTO / Aizuddin Saad

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah and Tuanku Zara Salim present ang pow during the state-level Chinese New Year celebration, on Pulau Pangkor, 3 February 2017. NSTP PHOTO / Muhaizan Yahya 21

The enthronement ceremony of the 34th Sultan of Perak, Sultan Azlan Muhibbuddin Shah, and the Raja Permaisuri of Perak, Tuanku Bainun, at Balai Rong Seri, Istana Iskandariah, Kuala Kangsar, Perak, 9 December 1985. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives 23

The Straits Times Annual, 1965. The enthronement of Sultan Idris Shah ibni Almarhum Sultan Iskandar Shah as the 33rd Sultan of Perak. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives 24

Sultan of Perak Enthronement Supplement. The Straits Times, Friday, 25 October 1963. The Enthronement of Sultan Idris Shah. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives 27

New Straits Times, 1985. The enthronement of Sultan Azlan Muhibbuddin Shah as the 34th Sultan of Perak. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah kneels in front of his fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s casket, places both hands on the casket and kisses it for the last time as a sign of consent for the royal funeral to proceed. NSTP PHOTO / Supian Ahmad

Contents

35 Tranquillity in Perak Tengah 43 The Sultanate 97 From Perak Tengah to Bukit Chandan 103 The Heritage

Tranquillity in Perak Tengah

Shahmil Husin arrives for his wedding in Pulau Misa, September 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

Introduction

riving along the lanes in Perak Tengah reveals no traces of the glory and greatness that had once resided within this district. But a hidden gem is revealed when one looks beyond what is visible to the eyes. Perak Tengah is a historic centre where official residences of many members of royalty and homes of numerous nobles and dignitaries were once built. The district is also the final resting place of numerous Sultans. Perak Tengah, at the centre of Perak, grew in population along the second longest river of the Malaysian peninsula. The scenic views of the paddy fields and picturesque villages give the place a peaceful and serene outlook. The small town of Bota, well known for its durian â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the king of fruits to many Malaysians â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is often referred to as Durian Bota. Bota is divided into two geographical areas known as Bota Kiri and Bota Kanan, separated by the Sungai Perak. Tranquillity is what visitors may find in this small town. Simplicity of life can be observed in the daily activities of the village folk here. Perak Tengah is also rich in tropical foliage and clear fresh air, the trappings of big city living almost non-existent in these villages. Visitors can feast their eyes on the granaries of the paddy field that stretch along the roadside. Ambling along the lanes and fields gives a sense of peacefulness to both locals and travellers. Agriculture is the main socioeconomic activity in Perak Tengah. Sources of income include oil palm, rubber, banana and coconut plantations. In addition to farming, education has become a rapidly developing part of the local economy. Two major universities in Malaysia call Bandar Seri Iskandar home, dubbing it the Town of Knowledge. 37

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Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS (UTP) campus accommodates 8,000 students, and spreads across 405 hectares of land. Established in 1997, UTP leads the way in technology education and serves as a centre for creativity and innovation. UTP places strong emphasis on research in attaining technological advances and breakthroughs. The university welcomes students from more than 50 countries. Its campus, with an Aga Khan award-winning architecture and state-of-the art facilities, stands proud in Perak Tengah. Universiti Teknologi MARA (UiTM Perak branch), neighbouring UTP, has been in operation since 1999 and occupies approximately 159 hectares. The campus is fully occupied by almost 10,000 students. Over Perak Tengahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long history, it has seen many changes, always keeping a close connection to its roots of royal greatness. Even the Town of Knowledge pays homage to the past as the town of Seri Iskandar was named after Almarhum Sultan Iskandar Shah, who reigned from 1918 until 1938. This book offers a glimpse into the royal heritage of the ancient Perak kingdom on the soil of Perak Tengah. 39

Villager Amir Asfar Asmawi, 12, watches a performance during a wedding in Pulau Misa, September 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

The Sultanate

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah and Tuanku Zara Salim recite prayers at the tomb of Sultan Muzaffar Shah I in Kampung Telok Bakong, Parit, 12 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Muzaffar Shah I 1st Sultan | 1528 to 1549

The sultanate system forms the underlying setting of the historic royal glory in Perak. The enthronement of Sultan Muzaffar Shah I as the first Sultan of Perak took place in 1528. He was a descendant of Sultan Mahmud Shah of Melaka (who was defeated by the Portuguese in 1511) and was married to Tun Terang who was a daughter of his stepmother Tun Fatimah, a descendant of the Bendahara family of Melaka. The Sultanate era in Perak began with an invitation from the chiefs in Perak to Sultan Mahmud Shah of Melaka, requesting an enthronement of a Sultan in Perak. Among the chiefs were Tun Saban and Nakhoda Kassim. Tun Saban ruled in Hulu Perak as a chief to the people at Changkat Merah. Nakhoda Kassim was another powerful chief in charge of a stretch of settlements, from Selinsing to Larut (Fawzi, 1986). Perak was divided into several areas led by different chiefs till a consensus was reached to have one leader to unite all these areas by enthroning a descendant of the Sultan. It was their ardent hope that the enthronement of the Sultan could further boost the economy of the state and attract more investors (Nasir, 1977). Sultan Mahmud Shah honoured the invitation by sending his son, Raja Muzaffar Shah, to fulfill the request. Upon his departure, Raja Muzaffar Shah received a sword from his father, named Pedang Cura Si Manjakini. The legendary sword was inherited from Sang Nila Utama, the founder of Singapore. It had been passed down to Parameswara, the first ruler of the Melaka Sultanate, and later came into the possession of Sultan Mahmud Shah. The name Cura Si Manjakini originated from the Sanskrit words Curika (Si) Mandakini; meaning a blade from Mandakini Lake, which is near the Ganges River, India (Nasir, 1977). 45

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah kisses the sword named Pedang Cura Si Manjakini during his enthronement at Istana Iskandariah, Kuala Kangsar, 6 May 2015. The legendary sword was inherited from Sang Nila Utama, the founder of Singapore. It had been passed down to Parameswara, the first ruler of the Melaka Sultanate. Later on, it came into the possession of Sultan Mahmud Shah of Melaka, who then gave it to his son Sultan Muzaffar Shah I. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah recites prayers, led by Orang Kaya-Kaya Imam Paduka Tuan Dato’ Dr Afifi Al-Akiti. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Muzaffar Shah also received Keris Taming Sari (a unique double-sided dagger) from his father for his journey to Perak. The name Taming Sari refers to a Javanese warrior who was defeated by Laksamana Hang Tuah in a duel. The keris was presented as a reward to the victor by the Javanese king. Hang Tuah later surrendered the keris to Sultan Mahmud Shah of Melaka when he failed to bring a princess from Gunung Ledang to the palace, as requested by the Sultan (Fawzi, 1986). The sheath of the keris was made of gold, and some versions of the legend said that the keris was imbued with supernatural power. The sword and the keris were the symbols of power and sovereignty, becoming part of the Perak Sultanate’s royal regalia for more than four hundred years till today. Other heirlooms brought from Melaka by Sultan Muzaffar Shah I included Cop Lintor or Cop Halilintar Kayu Gamat, Kancing Halkah and two ancient pieces of silver trays (Raja Berperlembagaan Malaysia, 2012). Raja Muzaffar Shah carried on his ship many other royal regalia from the Melaka Sultanate, including the musical instrument known as Nobat. The Nobat is more than just a music ensemble and can only be played by Orang Kalur descendants (Raja Iskandar, 2009). The Nobat of Perak State consists of five instruments – Gendang Nyenyalu, Nafiri, Gendang Nenghara, Serunai and Gendang Penengkah. The Royal Nobat is played on significant occasions such as during enthronements, birthdays and deaths. Raja Muzaffar Shah and the entourage were joyously received by the people at Beting Beras Basah at the estuary of Sungai Perak. Historians narrated that Raja Muzaffar Shah’s ship was stranded at this landmark, where he performed a recitation. With the enchanted recitation, the ship miraculously moved forward and continued its journey. Upon his arrival at Tanah Abang, he was enthroned as the first Sultan of Perak. 48

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah receives Mestika Embun from Toh Seri Nara Diraja Mohd Shah Nong Chik during his enthronement ceremony at Istana Iskandariah, Kuala Kangsar, 6 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO

During the enthronement, he received the Mestika Embun, a gift from Tok Temong, a local leader. The Mestika Embun was said to be made of petrified dew. Tok Temong, whose real name was Tun Perobu, was a sister of Tun Saban. She was a leader at a place named Temong situated near Kuala Kangsar. After being appointed as the head of Temong, she was thereafter known as Tok Puan Putih. She was known as Tok Temong only after her demise (Fawzi, 1994). During the enthronement ceremony, Tok Temong requested that the Sultan and his descendants build their capitals on the right side of the riverbank, and Tok Temong be recognised as the leader on the left side of the riverbank. The Sultan gave his blessings to the request. In return for the gifts presented by Tok Temong, she received Puan Nagataru and Puan Bujur from Sultan Muzaffar Shah. Puan Nagataru and Puan Bujur are boxes to keep betel, tobacco, nuts and lime. The gifts, however were returned to His Royal Highness. Both sets of Puan and the Mestika Embun are until today, used as part of the regalia in enthronement ceremonies of the Sultans (Raja Berperlembagaan Malaysia, 2012). The Sultanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s governing structure was an extension of the Melaka feudal system with a similar setting of officially appointed dignitaries, structured on a fourfold basis: Orang Besar Empat, Orang Besar Lapan, Orang Besar Enam Belas and Orang Besar Tiga Puluh Dua. It was narrated in Nasir (1977) that even though Perak was governed by the Sultan, the influence of the chiefs and dignitaries was still very strong, permeating through society, especially at the beginning of their reign. The transition period saw a rough turn, especially in the transfer of power in the government. Tax collections and laws were independently administered by the chiefs, surpassing the Sultanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s authority and knowledge of certain state matters. His Royal Highness realized the adverse impact that this might bring about and hence sought military aid from Johor. The strategic intervention was seen as necessary to curb the permeating influence of the Orang-orang Besar Perak; amongst others Tun Saban at Hulu Perak and Tok Temong at Perlus and Temong. It was then made mandatory to surrender the collected taxes to the Sultan, and that certain laws with regard to the people be first referred to the Sultan. 51

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PAN-INDIANTHEMED DANCE

New Sunday Times, 20 November 2016. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives

The first Bendahara (the highest chieftaincy in Perak) was Tun Mahmud, son of Tun Isap Barakah Bendahara Paduka Tuan (Nasir, 1977). Not too long after the appointment, Tun Mahmud was called back to Johor, leaving the position vacant. Sultan Muzaffar Shah I later appointed Megat Terawis Ibni Daulat Pagar Ruyung as Bendahara. Sultan Muzaffar Shah I died in 1549 and was interred in Tanah Abang. The title Marhum Tanah Abang was conferred on him upon his death. His descendant, Sultan Mansur Shah I, was enthroned as the second Sultan of Perak in 1549. He resided at Kota Lama Kanan, within the district of Kuala Kangsar, which is quite a distance from Perak Tengah. His Royal Highnessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sovereignty in Perak will not be covered at length in this book as his residence (hence the state capital) was not located in Perak Tengah. In 1573, Acheh attacked Perak, securing a foothold on its land. Sultan Mansur Shah I was said to have vanished in 1577 at the Kota Lama Kanan mosque. The title Marhum Kota Lama Kanan was conferred on him after his perceived death. 53

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IN SEAR ARCH R OF MEGAT TERA RAWI AWIS I Putri Zanina Megat Zainuddin chronicles her quest to discover her ancestral roots in a book, writes Intan Maizura Ahmad Kamal

Putri and Za’abah

The grave of Megat Terawis II who served as the Perak Bendahara from 1720-1728.

ARA Croft. And suddenly an arresting visual of the insanely gorgeous Angelina Jolie in that skintight dark ensemble as the titular character of the Tomb Raider franchise floats deliciously into my vision. “Hahaha... well, maybe not quite!” the sound of bemused chuckling slices into my reverie and the image of the sexy tomb raider dissipates as swiftly as it had appeared. Seated before me, the corners of her kindly eyes creasing in amusement, is another type of “raider”, one who had been scouring the length and breadth of the country and yonder not for treasures that glitter but better — knowledge. Eyes dancing under her glasses, Putri Zanina Megat Zainuddin, former editor of NST’s Travel Times, exclaims delightedly: “Oh, you noticed that part in the book?” ThepartPutriisreferringtocanbefound in her latest book, Megat Terawis: Journey To Our Roots, which chronicles her quest to discover her ancestral roots. Beaming, she shares: “Lara Croft looks for artefacts right? And in a way I felt just like her, especially when we were in Bukit TinggiandPagarRuyung...discoveringthe tombs of the Raja Raja Alam, all by chance. Of course we didn’t discover any prized treasures or anything but the knowledge we gained was simply priceless.” The award-winning writer is the 13th-generation descendant from Perak’s Megat Terawis bloodline. Driven by a deep need to discover where she came from and her family background, this youthful mother-of-four embarked on a journey which took her to Pagar Ruyung in Sumatera and the seat of Minangkabau rule, to trace the footsteps of the legendary Megat Terawis and his early descendants in Perak. For 230 years, penned Putri, from the establishmentofthePerakSultanatein1528, theMegatsweretheSultan’sBendaharasor royal custodians, kingmakers and trusted generals. Fromthebook,whichcombinesa travelogue,historicalaccounts,genealogies oftheMegatfamily,andasmatteringoffolk talesandlegends,welearnofthesignificant impact of the powerful Bendahara Megats on Perak’s history and also on the Malay Nusantara of old.

something that has long been gone? . For many of us, we trace our roots mainly to satisfy our curiosity. We are doing this for us, for our own preservation, so that we may understand the why and what of who we are.” And so the quandary is posed in the opening preface of Putri’s labour of love. “Before I embarked on this book journey, I hadn’t really known much about my family’s story, “ begins Putri, recalling the early days. “My father told my siblings and I that we were descendants of Megat Terawis, a historical figure in Perak and that he was a warrior. That was it.” She was still too young to appreciate the significance of what her late father was trying to tell her, recalls Putri. At the time, ancestor stories and history never captured her interest and “...eventually he stopped telling the stories,” she confides. As the years passed, the question of ‘who’ she really was began to nag. Brows furrowing, Putri says: “I am a Putri. Why am I a Putri? When I asked my parents, especially my mother, she’d say, ok, you’re a Megat but the Megat married a commoner and so the daughters are Putri, while the son is known as Tun. Because my father was a Megat and my mother was a so-called commoner, the son became ‘Tun’, and daughter, ‘Putri’. I have to carry this title for life. Why? And so the desire to know who I am grew stronger.” She adds: “I was also curious about why I tend to behave in certain ways. For example, it’s not easy for people to get close to me. Sometimes I envy people who can just instantly click with those whom they have just met and become familiar with each other. I’ve never been able to. I wondered why I always tended to put some distance between myself and the next person. Could it be because of my bloodline?” The trigger which led to the eventual quest was a chance discovery of a lone

The family of Megat Omar bin M

upon a signboard by the roadside. On it was written C ‘Makam Megat Terawis’. Megat Ain I remember gasping at Nordin ( the sight of a name that I Silat Mas recognised.” of Mega Suddenly, the couple’s leisurely drive in the disciples f Istiadat interior of Perak took Kepe an exciting turn. “It was thrilling because I am a descendant of Megat Terawis, t legendary hero and an important figu in Perak’s early history,” shares Putri, h excitement at the recollection palpab “Perhaps it was my father’s oversight not telling me that our ancestor’s gra could be found in Pulau Tiga. A desola place, it’s tucked deep in a forested ar interspersedwithoilpalmestatesrunni almost parallel with Sungai Perak.” Their curiosity piqued, husband a wife decided to follow the signboar Recalls Putri: “We went in and fou a kampung. And then we saw the lo grave next to a house. I was complete overwhelmed by this discovery.” Adding, Putri says: “Later when learnt that he came from Pagar Ruyun my interest was piqued again. Did th place exist? So I started another researc Suddenlyitbecameimportanttoreacht places which had touched my ancestor According to Putri’s husband — a partner in crime — the ever cheerf Mohd Za’abah Mohd Johar, there’s n been much written about Megat Teraw up to this point despite his significant ro in Perak’s history. “There have been som paragraph mentions in books that tou on the history of Perak, books written the colonialists, and that’s pretty mu it. Through the course of our researc we discovered many inaccuracies a inconsistencies,” shares Za’abah. Noddingin agreement,Putri interjec

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Megat Terawis: Journey To Our Roots AUTHOR: Putri Zanina Megat

Zainuddin

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Megat Muhammad Ali from the family branch of Megat Abu Kassim, the last Bendahara Megat.

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THE PROCESS When they first started nuddin Megat Mohd out on the project, it was (centre), The Grand more a case of stumbling ster and descendant upon things. Shares Putri: at Terawis with his “Our primary sources were from the Pertubuhan gathered when we visited t Pewaris Penjuritsites and talked to people etangan Melayu. along the way. A lot of these old stories had been passed the down by word of mouth. Then we started ure reading up on Perak’s history, the Malay her Annals etc and from there, we began to ble. form a picture. Then we had a few rounds for of interviews with Megat Osman Megat ave Abu Bakar and Megat Iskandar Megat ate Zaharuddin, who’d started researching rea earlier than us. They shared their ing knowledge and research findings.” As they began to list things down and chronologically, it became possible to rd. match certain things, says Putri. “For und example, later on in our research we one discovered that there was a Megat Terawis ely I and Megat Terawis II, a discovery that threw off a lot of the earlier historians’ n I stories about Megat Terawis as they never ng, identified the year. We counterchecked his information before piecing them together ch. the rs.” and ful not wis ole me uch by uch ch, and

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and inserting our own logical thinking to form a story. One of our major sources of reference was a book called Salintas Minangkabau, which contained a lot of the early history of Pagar Ruyung.” The final lap in the process of putting the book together took two years. Despite stumblinguponthegravein2000,nothing concerted was done. “Everything was done in spurts, “ confides Putri. “We only came across family members from the Megat Terawis Descendants Association of Malaysia about three years before the book was ready. It was quite late. It was then that I found that they had wanted to produce a book since 10 years ago. But somehow it was never realised.” MEMORIES AND MAGIC Suffice to say, the journey towards discovering self and root has been a memorable one for the gentle-natured former journalist. Something that will forever be etched in her memory is a chance meeting with a kindly-looking woman on her visit to the Palace of Selindung Bulan in Pagar Ruyung. During their encounter, the lady was clad in a batik sarong and simple cotton blouse with floral prints. Who

was she? Putri smiles, before replying: “Her name was Puti (Puteri) Reno Raudhatuljannah Taib and her simple demeanour belied her true status. She’s the 17th Yang DiPertuan Gadih and belongs to the 33rd generation of Pagar Ruyung royalty.” Raudha, as Putri calls her, isn’t only a Yang DiPertuan Gading, she’s also the bundo kanduang (mother figure) for Pagar Ruyung, a position that has the highest authority and holds the veto power on matters concerning Minangkabau customs. Continuing, Putri shares: “A feeling that I had never felt before passed over me when we met. I had chills down my neck. And I saw her rubbing her neck too. It probably meant that we’re distant relatives who are meeting for the first time. And perhaps it was because we share the same bloodline, a strong one. The fact that we met by chance made it all the more magical.” Raudha’s personality, adds Putri, mirrors her own. “A bundo kanduang isn’t only strong, she also holds the family together, loves nature, customs and traditions and to a certain extent, they have a level of piety to balance their life. And I actually embrace all those traits but without realising it.” THE JOURNEY CONTINUES Now that the book is completed and copies are nestling on bookshelves for lovers of history to leaf through, is that the end, I ask Putri. Her eyes flash and she replies: “Ohhh, I know there’s still more to come. The bulls’ eye for us would be to locate the grave of Megat Terawis I. No one has been able to find it until now. The one in Batu Tiga that we stumbled upon belonged to Megat Terawis II. There are a few theories on where he might have died or disappeared that can’t be proven. But we do have some info. That might be next!” The couple is also working on the Bahasa version and hopes to have it available by end of this year. “Oh, and there’s something else we’d like explore — to shoot a documentary on the story. The filming process would be amazing.

New Sunday Times, 20 November 2016. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives 55

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah and Tuanku Zara Salim and the villagers of Kampung Jawa recite prayers at the tomb of Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Shah in Mukim Pulau Tiga. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Shah 3rd Sultan | 1577 to 1584

In 1573, during the reign of the second Sultan, Sultan Mansur Shah I, Perak was attacked by Acheh. The Sultan and his family were held captive and were brought to Acheh. His eldest son, Raja Alauddin, married the princess of Acheh and was later enthroned as the Sultan of Acheh upon the demise of his father-in-law, Sultan Ali Ria’yat Shah (1568-1575). Sultan Mansur Shah I was sent back to rule Perak but his family remained in Acheh. Upon the demise of Sultan Mansur Shah I, the Perak noble chieftains went to Acheh to request the enthronement of the next Sultan in Perak. Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah sent his younger brother to rule Perak, as requested by the Perak chieftains. Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Shah became the third Sultan in 1577, with his capital at Jalong. Due to frequent floods, he moved his residence to Geronggong. There was not much development during His Royal Highness’s reign as Perak was colonized by Acheh (Nasir, 1977). He died in 1584 and was buried in Kampung Jawa. Both areas are located within Mukim Pulau Tiga in Kampung Gajah – approximately 42 kilometres from what is now known as Bandar Seri Iskandar. He died at a young age after reigning for only seven years which was the reason why he was given the title Marhum Muda. One year after his demise, his elder brother, Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah, died in Acheh. Hence his mother and his other siblings were brought back to Perak and the influence of Acheh on Perak weakened. However, Acheh once again conquered Perak in 1619. 56

Sultan Alauddin Shah

5th Sultan | 1594 to 1603

Sultan Tajul Arifin, the 4th Sultan, was unfortunately not blessed with an heir when he passed on in 1594. The Perak noble chiefs reached a consensus to enthrone Raja Ali Ibni Almarhum Raja Inu, a grandchild to Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Shah (the 3rd Sultan), as the Sultan. Upon his enthronement, he was known as Sultan Alauddin Shah and stayed in Berahman Indera (now known as Bota Kanan). During his reign, Acheh placed a number of their people as administrators in Perak. His Royal Highness died in 1603 and was buried on the riverbank of Pulau Berahman Indera. He was conferred the title Marhum Mangkat di Darat. However due to soil erosion, his tomb was later moved to Kampung Jawa in Mukim Pulau Tiga (Nasir,1977).

Sultan Mukaddam Shah 6th Sultan | 1603 to 1619

In 1603, Raja Tua, the son of a female relative of Sultan Tajul Arifin (the 4th Sultan), was enthroned as the 6th Sultan of Perak. This is the uniqueness of the heir system to the throne of Perak as it was not a mandatory tradition to have the son or nephew of the Sultan be enthroned immediately (Buyong, 1972). Raja Tua was known as Sultan Mukaddam Shah and resided in Bota Kanan. Towards the end of his reign, Perak was once again attacked and came under the suzerainty of Acheh. The whole royal family was taken captive and brought to Acheh. A folk tale that has been passed down through generations tells of how the attack began. Sultan Mukaddam Shah was said to have a beautiful daughter named Puteri Limau Purut, who was betrothed to his nephew Raja Mansur. Raja Mansur was a brother to Sultan Alauddin Shah (Marhum Mangkat di Darat). The Raja of Achehâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proposal for Puteri Limau Purutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand in marriage was declined. The enraged Iskandar Muda Mahkota Alam then deployed his troops to Perak for attack in 1619. Sultan Mukaddam Shah, Puteri Limau Purut, the palace maid named Esah Gerbang and 40 other palace chaperons were captured and brought to Acheh (Nasir, 1977). Sultan Mukaddam Shah died in Acheh and was buried there. He was then referred to as Marhum Mangkat di Acheh. Upon his demise, Perak chiefs went to Acheh, led by Megat Abdullah, to seek consent from the Sultan of Acheh to bring Puteri Limau Purut home. Their request was denied but Megat Abdullah helped the princess escape and flee back to Perak. 59

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah and Tuanku Zara Salim recite prayers at the tomb of Sultan Mahmud Shah I and Sultan Muhammad Shah in Mukim Pulau Tiga, Kampung Gajah, 12 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO 61

Sultan Mahmud Shah I

8th Sultan | 1627 to 1630

Raja Yusof, or known as Raja Bongsu, a brother to Sultan Mukaddam Shah and grandchild to Sultan Mansur Shah I, was enthroned as the 8th Sultan by Iskandar Muda Mahkota Alam (Sultan of Acheh), replacing the 7th Sultan of Perak, Sultan Mansur Shah II. Upon his enthronement, he was known as Sultan Mahmud Shah I and resided at Geronggong in Pulau Tiga. He passed away in 1630 and was entombed in Pulau Tiga. He was referred to as Marhum Pulau Tiga.

Sultan Salehuddin 9th Sultan | 1630 to 1635

The son of Sultan Mahmud Shah, Raja Kobat, ascended the throne as the 9th Sultan in 1630 and was known as Sultan Salehuddin. It was a challenging period as a cholera epidemic was sweeping through Perak resulting in numerous deaths along Sungai Perak. He then sailed to Kampar, Sumatera and died in 1635. He was subsequently known as Marhum Mangkat di Kampar (Buyong, 1972).

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah sprinkles rosewater on the tomb of Sultan Muzzafar Shah II in Bota. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Muzzafar Shah II 10th Sultan | 1636 to 1653

Upon the death of the 9th Sultan of Perak, Sultan Salehuddin, Perak had no male heir to be enthroned as the successor. Many members of the royal families died due to the cholera epidemic. As Perak was under the suzerainty of Acheh, Sultan Iskandar Thani of Acheh sent his relative, Raja Sulong, to be enthroned as the Sultan of Perak. Sultan Muzzafar Shah II resided in Kampung Air Mati, Lambor Kanan. In 1639, the Dutch obtained the consent of Sultan Iskandar Thani for tin ore trading in Perak. After the demise of Sultan Iskandar Thani, Puteri Safiatuddin, the daughter of Iskandar Muda Mahkota Alam, was enthroned as the Ruler of Acheh. She was conferred the name Safiyatuddin Tajul Alam Safiyatuddin Shah (1641- 1675). The power of Acheh over Perak during her rule slowly weakened. The Dutch, represented by Joan Truijtman, made an agreement with her to allow only the Dutch and Acheh to purchase tin ore from Perak. Sultan Muzzafar Shah II, who was earlier not keen on the request, was ordered by the ruler of Acheh to oblige. On 15th December 1653, the Dutch and Acheh jointly concluded a treaty with Perak which included a provision that Perak must not sell tin to any parties other than the Dutch and Acheh. Sultan Muzzafar Shah II died in 1653 and he was interred in Air Mati Lambor Kanan. The title Marhum Jalilullah was conferred on him. 65

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah recites a prayer at the tombs of Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah and Sultan Alauddin Mughayat Shah in Pasir Salak, 12 May 2015. The two Sultans were interred side by side. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah 11th Sultan | 1653 to 1720

Upon the demise of Sultan Muzzafar Shah II (the 10th Sultan) in 1653, his eldest son was enthroned as the Sultan. Raja Mahmud, later known as Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah, resided in Geronggong. In 1700, Perak gained independence from Acheh as the dynasty weakened when Sultan Iskandar II died in 1641 and left no male successor. Acheh was subsequently governed by four female sovereigns until 1699: Safiyatuddin Tajul Alam Safiyatuddin Shah (1641 - 1675), Nakıyatuddin Nur Alam (1675 - 1678), Zakiyatuddin Inayat Shah (1678 - 1688) and Zıynatuddin Kemalat Shah (1688 - 1699). The presence of the Dutch in Perak became more imminent during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah, reflected by another visit made by the Dutch representative, Joan Truijtman. Another two treaties were signed during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah. The Dutch East Indies Company dominated the trading of tin ore during Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah’s reign. The Sultan introduced a new tradition, bestowing upon his brother, Raja Mansor, the title of Sultan Muda or Yang Dipertuan Muda. The title connoted that Raja Mansor was the heir to the royal throne. Historians also recorded that the position of Orang Kaya Besar Maharaja Diraja was created around this period. The position was not part of the Melaka governance structure adopted by the earlier Perak Sultans. Hence, during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah, the four highest positions of Orang Besar Empat in Perak were Orang Kaya Bendahara Seri Maharaja, Orang Kaya Besar Maharaja Diraja, Orang Kaya Temenggung Paduka Raja and Orang Kaya Menteri Paduka Tuan. Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shah ruled for 67 years and passed away at the age of 120. He was buried at Geronggong in Pulau Tiga and was known as Marhum Besar Aulia Allah. 67

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah observes Tuanku Zara Salim sprinkle rosewater on Sultan Alauddin Mughayat Shahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tomb, which is located next to Sultan Mahmud Iskandar Shahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, in Pasir Salak, 12 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Alauddin Mughayat Shah 12th Sultan | 1720 to 1728

Sultan Alauddin Mughayat Shah, originally known as Raja Radin, was a nephew to Marhum Besar Aulia Allah. He resided in Geronggong in Pulau Tiga, Kampung Gajah. There was an attempt to invade Perak in 1728 by the Bugis Yamtuan Muda Riau, Daing Merewah (Buyong, 1972). Numerous attempts were made by the Bugis but they were not able to defeat the Perak forces. Sultan Alauddin Mughayat Shah died in 1728 and was interred in Geronggong. Upon his death, he was given the title Marhum Sulong. 69

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah paying his respects to the 13th Sultan of Perak, Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III in Bota, 11 May 2015. NSTP PHOTO / Muhaizan Yahya

Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III 13th Sultan | 1728 to 1756

Raja Inu, a younger brother of Sultan Alauddin Mughayat Shah and who was then the Raja Muda of Perak, was enthroned as the 13th Sultan in 1728. Upon his enthronement, he was known as Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III. He built his residence at Berahman Indera (now known as Bota Kanan). His brother, Raja Bisnu, was made the Yang di-Pertuan Muda residing at Pulau Tiga. Raja Bisnu was known as Yang di-Pertuan Muda Muhammad Shah upon enthronement. During the reign of Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III, Perak was once again attacked by the Bugis, this time under the command of Daeng Chelak who was the second Yamtuan Riau. During this period, an internal turmoil occurred as the Sultan’s brother, Yang di-Pertuan Muda Muhammad Shah, attempted to dethrone him and be enthroned as the Sultan of Perak. Some historians reported that the Bugis sided with Yang di-Pertuan Muda Muhammad Shah. Perak was consequently divided as some of the Perak chieftains supported Yang di-Pertuan Muda Muhammad Shah and enthroned him as Sultan Muhammad Shah (1742-1743). During this volatile period Perak had two Sultans (Buyong, 1972). Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III decided to move from Berahman Indera to Kuala Kangsar. The two divisions were Pachat to Ulu Perak in the north which was under the jurisdiction of Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III; and Pachat to Hilir Perak which was under his brother’s territory. The two brothers, however, reconciled and Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III remained in power and moved back to

reside in Berahman Indera. In 1743, a Bugis Raja named Daeng Salili (Haji Besar) was appointed Mufti of Perak, and was subsequently made an Orang Besar Perak with the title Maharaja Lela. He was the personal guard to Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III who was given the authority to kill or behead anyone without the Sultan’s permission. During the period when the Bugis began to invade the peninsula, Raja Bugis, Daeng Upu Tanderi Burung, presented a keris to Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III as a gift. The keris, known as Keris Gading has become part of the royal regalia till today. The Dutch returned and were a stronger presence in 1745. An under-merchant, Ary Verbrugge, was sent to Perak to make a request for a fort to be erected upriver. They also sought the Sultan’s agreement to sell all tin to the Dutch East Indies Company. On 25th June 1747, Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III signed an agreement to deliver all tin to the Dutch at a fixed rate; granted permission for a fort to be erected; and required that all vessels be inspected by the Dutch to ensure tin was not taken out of Perak except to be sold to the Dutch. During the sultanate period of Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III, the state prospered as it gained revenue from the duty paid by the Dutch. Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III reigned for 28 years and died in 1756. He was conferred the title Marhum Haji Allah. He was interred in Kampung Selat, Berahman Indera (Bota Kanan). 71

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah watches Tuanku Zara Salim sprinkle rosewater onto the tomb of Sultan Muhammad Shah and Sultan Mahmud Shah II in Mukim Pulau Tiga in Kampung Gajah, 12 May 2015. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Muhammad Shah 14th Sultan | 1742 to 1743

Raja Bisnu was enthroned as Yang di-Pertuan Muda during the rule of Marhum Haji Allah. During the power struggle with his brother Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III, Perak was divided into two; he was enthroned as a Sultan whose reign covered Pachat to Hilir Perak. Even though he was enthroned during the volatile period sometime in 1742-1743, Sultan Muhammad Shah is regarded as the 14th Sultan of Perak and resided at Pulau Tiga. He died in 1750 and was entombed in Pulau Tiga. He was given the title Marhum Aminullah. 73

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah visits the tomb of Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain at Pulau Indera Sakti in Pasir Panjang Ulu, 13 May 2015. The ritual is observed by Tuanku Zara Salim and their son, Raja Kechil Besar Perak Raja Azlan Muzzaffar Shah. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain 15th Sultan | 1756 to 1770

His real name was Raja Iskandar, heir to Sultan Muhammad Shah. He ascended the throne in 1756 at Berahman Indera but moved to Pulau Chempaka Sari (later renamed as Pulau Indera Sakti) near Kuala Sungai Kinta. During his reign, the Sultan restructured the government and created a number of new positions which included the following â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Raja Muda, Raja Bendahara, Raja Di Hilir, Raja Di Hulu, Raja Di Baroh, Raja Kechil Besar, Raja Kechil Tengah, Raja Kechil Muda and Raja Kechil Bongsu. Till 1773, the Sultan, Raja Muda and Raja Bendahara were the pillars in the structure of the Perak Sultanate. Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain appointed his younger brother, Raja Alauddin, as Raja Bendahara Perak. This was the first appointment of royalty as Raja Bendahara, establishing a legacy which continued for about 200 years till 1959. Raja Bendahara was the second in line to the throne after Raja Muda. Today, the position has reverted to commoners with the title of Orang Kaya Bendahara Seri Maharaja. Another agreement was made with the Dutch during the time of Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain on 17th October 1765. The agreement entailed more detailed items to avoid misunderstandings between Perak and the Dutch regarding tin ore trading. Perak further prospered and attained its golden era during the reign of Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain. Many merchants from China and India arrived in Perak during this time to pursue business endeavours in the region. The tomb of Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain is located at Pulau Indera Sakti in Pasir Panjang Ulu, Kampung Gajah. Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain ruled for 14 years and was interred in Pulau Indera Sakti in Pasir Panjang Ulu, Kampung Gajah. He was given the title Marhum Kaharullah. 75

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah sprinkles rosewater on the tomb of Sultan Mahmud Shah II as Tuanku Zara Salim looks on in Kampung Teluk Memali, 13 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Mahmud Shah II

16th Sultan | 1770 to 1778

Sultan Mahmud Shah was the second son of the late Sultan Muhammad Shah. His original name was Raja Samsu, and he was on the throne for eight years following the demise of his brother, Sultan Iskandar Zulkarnain. Sultan Mahmud Shah resided in Pulau Indera Sakti but moved to Pasir Pulai near the banks of Sungai Perak, later known as Pasir Pulai Indera Mulia. His siblings were made heirs apparent and presumptive â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Raja Alauddin (later Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah) was appointed Raja Muda and Raja Chulan the Raja Bendahara. During Sultan Mahmud Shahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reign, Raja Haji, a renowned Bugis warrior from Riau and his elder brother, Raja Lumu, the Raja of Selangor, came to Perak in 1770. Raja Lumu was married to a Perak princess and was enthroned as Sultan Sallehuddin Shah by Sultan Mahmud Shah. Perak was then on good terms with Selangor which strengthened political ties with the Bugis. Given the Bugis military strength, this was an important alliance. However, the good relationship between the Bugis and Sultan Mahmud Shah was not accepted by Raja Muda Alauddin and Raja Bendahara Chulan as the Dutch were enemies of the Bugis. Sultan Mahmud Shah began to experience increased pressure from Raja Muda Alauddin and the Dutch as during this time, the Dutch East Indies Company was still trading tin ore in Perak. His health was failing and he died in Pasir Pulai Indera Mulia in 1778. Sultan Mahmud Shah reigned for eight years and was interred in Teluk Memali (about eight kilometres south of Kampung Gajah). Upon his death, he was conferred the title Marhum Muda. 76

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah, Tuanku Zara Salim, and their children, Raja Kechil Besar Perak Raja Azlan Muzzaffar Shah and Raja Nazira Safya recite prayers at the tomb of Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah Iskandar Muda in Kampung Teluk Memali, 13 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah 17th Sultan | 1778 to 1786

After the demise of Marhum Muda, his brother Sultan Alauddin ibni Almarhum Sultan Muhammad Shah, was enthroned as the 17th Sultan of Perak. He resided in Rantau Panjang, later renamed Rantau Panjang Indera Mulia. His nephew, Raja Ibrahim ibni Almarhum Sultan Mahmud Shah, was made Raja Muda. During Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reign, an Englishman by the name of Captain Forest came to Perak in 1783. Captain Forest requested an audience with the Sultan to share his observation about tin ore trading in Perak. He mentioned that there was smuggling of tin by the locals through Larut and Kuala Kangsar. At this time, the Dutchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tin ore factory and warehouse in Tanjung Putus were put out of commission. The Dutch, however, came back in 1786. Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah died in 1786 after ruling for 9 years. He was conferred the title Marhum Sulung and was entombed in Kampung Telok Memali in Kampung Gajah. 78

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah and Tuanku Zara Salim recite prayers at the tomb of Sultan Ahmaddin Shah and Sultan Alauddin Shah in Bota Kanan. The two Sultans were buried at the same location. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Ahmaddin Shah 18th Sultan | 1786 to 1806

Raja Bongsu ibni Almarhum Sultan Muhammad Shah was enthroned as Sultan Ahmaddin Shah in 1786 after the demise of his brother, Almarhum Sultan Alauddin Mansur Shah Iskandar Muda. During his reign, the Dutchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s influence declined tremendously, while the British began to gain a foothold in Perak as the officers from the British East India Company along with British troops forced the Dutch commandant, Christoffel Walbeehm, to leave Perak. In 1882, the fort previously built by the Dutch at Tanjung Putus was demolished and the British East India Company started to dominate the trading of tin ore. Tin ore attracted not only Acheh, the Dutch and the British but also captured the attention of neighbouring state, Selangor, during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim Shah. Perak lost the battle against Selangor. Sultan Ahmaddin Shah and his chiefs then retreated to Kuala Pelus. He reigned for 20 years until his demise in Chegar Galah in 1806. The body of Almarhum Sultan Ahmaddin Shah was not interred for three months due to domestic turmoil over who should be enthroned as the next Sultan. He was finally interred in Berahman Indera (Bota Kanan) and was conferred the title Marhum Bongsu. 81

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah recites prayers at the tomb of Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah in Kampung Bandar Baru, 13 May 2015. BERNAMA PHOTO

Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah 19th Sultan | 1806 to 1825

After the demise of Sultan Ahmaddin Shah, his eldest son was enthroned as Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah, residing at Bandar Baharu (near Teluk Memali). Perak was attacked by Selangor in 1806 when its claim over Perak was not recognised by Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah. The attacks to penetrate Perak were, however, not successful. In 1818, the Sultan of Kedah, Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Halim Shah sent a force led by a prince, Tengku Yaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;akub, to attack Perak. Kedah was ordered by Siam to conquer Perak as Siam at that time was at war with Burma and needed to gather more weapons and assemble more men. The Perak troops were led by Che Panjang Talib bin Maharaja Lela Uda Tahir (Tok Janggut), a descendant of Daeng Salili (Maharaja Lela during the reign of Sultan Mudzaffar Shah III; 1728-1756). The British East India Company, which dominated the tin ore trade in Perak during that time, refused to interfere even though the consequence of the battle could damage the mines and the trading activities. The battle later came to a halt when a truce was reached between the two forces. Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah, however, was obliged to send Bunga Emas tributes to Siam periodically when Perak lost to it in a battle in 1821. Perak gained freedom from Siamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suzerainty a few years later. The Sultan of Selangor intervened to help Perak obtain its independence from Siam by expelling the Siamese representatives stationed in Perak. In return for this favour, Perak had to pay ufti (tributes) to Selangor. A treaty was signed on 11th July 1823 which required Perak to pay taxes to Selangor. This displeased the King of Siam who threatened to attack Selangor if its Sultan insisted on lending support to Perak for protection against Siam. During the reign of Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah, Perak and Selangor eventually agreed on setting Sungai Bernam as the boundary between the two states. Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah died in 1825 and was interred in Bandar Baharu, an area near Teluk Memali in Kampung Gajah. He was conferred the title Marhum Jamalullah. 83

The people grab the opportunity to take pictures with Tuanku Zara Salim after she visited the tombs of Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah and Sultan Jaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;afar Muazzam Shah in Pulau Juar, Kampung Gajah, 13 May 2015. The two Sultans were buried at the same location. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah sprinkles rosewater on the tombs of Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah and Sultan Ja’afar Muazzam Shah in Pulau Juar, Kampung Gajah, 13 May 2015. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah 20th Sultan | 1825 to 1830

Raja Abdullah was the eldest son of Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah (1806-1825). He ascended the throne in 1825 and resided at Pasir Panjang, Indera Mulia. During his reign, Perak was still heavily under the influence of Siam. In the year of his enthronement as the Sultan, he sent a correspondence to Robert Fullerton, the British Governor of Penang. His letter mentioned that Perak could not have any dealings with the British East India Company on tin ore in fear of Siam’s suzerainty over Perak. Upon receiving the message, the governor warned Siam that an attack on Perak would trigger a war with the British. The numerous visits and discussions by the British with Siam, Perak and Selangor led to the signing of the Burney Treaty on 20th June 1826. It was agreed that Siam and Selangor would not launch an attack on Perak and would allow Perak to be independently ruled by the Sultan. Subsequently in October 1826, the Low Treaty was signed between the British and Perak. Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah agreed to have no further political dealings with Siam. The Sultan was very pleased with the initiative by the British that enabled Perak to gain release from Siam’s suzerainty. In return, the Sultan awarded Pulau Pangkor and Pulau Sembilan to the British East India Company. Raja Chulan (Raja Bendahara), prince of Raja Inu Ibni Almarhum Sultan Ahmaddin Shah, was appointed as Raja Muda Perak. Raja Abdullah, prince of Raja Kechil Abdul Rahman Ibni Almarhum Sultan Ahmaddin Shah, was appointed as Raja Bendahara Perak. After reigning for five years, Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah died on 20th December 1830. He was given the title Marhum Khalilullah. During the reign of Sultan Idris Murshidul A’zam Shah, the tomb almost fell into the river due to land erosion. Sultan Idris ordered the tomb to be moved to Teluk Kepayang in Pulau Juar. 87

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah recites prayers at the tomb of Sultan Shahabuddin Riayat Shah in Tanjung Penangguh, 13 May 2015. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Shahabuddin Riayat Shah

21st Sultan | 1830 to 1851

After the demise of Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah, Raja Chulan was enthroned as the Sultan and thereafter was known as Sultan Shahabuddin Riayat Shah. His Royal Highness sent several letters to the British East India Company during which Pulau Pinang was taken as its colony. He first wrote to the English resident in Pulau Pinang on 26th June 1831 to inform about his enthronement as the new Sultan. Another correspondence was made in April 1832 stating his concern about the impending war that might be launched by Selangor due to a misunderstanding over a debt owed by Perak. He made a specific reference to the Low Treaty signed in 1826. In 1837, the Sultan sent a letter of appreciation to the British East India Company as Selangor called off its intention of attacking Perak, due to the warning sent by the British. There was another attempt at invasion by a neighbouring state, Kedah, when Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Halim Shah began to rule Kedah in 1842. The attempt was made with the intention of taking over Kerian which was then rich in tin. The British once again intervened to prevent the invasion. The rift between Kedah and Perak took six years to settle and it was finally agreed in 1848 that Kerian remain within the boundary of Perak. In 1848, more tin mines were opened in Larut operated by a local known as Che’ Long Ja’afar. Long Ja’afar was the descendant of Penghulu Mukim Lubok Merbau, Kuala Kangsar. Sultan Shahabuddin Riayat Shah passed away in 1851 and his tomb is in Kampung Tanjung Penangguh, near Kampung Gajah. Upon his demise, he was conferred the title Marhum Safi llah. 88

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah and Tuanku Zara Salim recite prayers after visiting the tombs of Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah and Sultan Ja’afar Muazzam Shah in Pulau Juar, Kampung Gajah, 13 May 2015. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

Sultan Ja’afar Muazzam Shah 23rd Sultan | 1857 to 1865

In 1857, after the demise of Sultan Abdullah Muhammad Shah I (1851-1857), who was entombed in Durian Sebatang in Teluk Intan within the district of Hilir Perak, Sultan Ja’afar Muazzam Shah was enthroned as the Sultan. His residence was at Pasir Panjang, an area in Sitiawan, in the district of Manjung. He was the grandson of Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah, the 19th Sultan of Perak. Prior to the enthronement, he was known as Raja Ngah Jaafar. During the reign of Sultan Abdullah Muhammad Shah I, turmoil amongst the royal families forced him to flee to Durian Sebatang. He sought refuge at the residence of Datuk Laksamana Tok Janggut. In the absence of the Sultan to govern the state, Raja Ngah Jaafar was appointed the de facto Sultan of Perak by influential Malay chiefs in 1853. Raja Ngah Jaafar awarded Che’ Long Jaafar a letter proclaiming his control of Larut which was rich in tin. With the discovery of tin in Larut, Perak grew more prominent as its economy boomed and more mines were set up. In 1858, British East India Company’s right to tin ore trading was terminated. In 1861, a series of wars broke out between the Chinese who worked at the tin mines in Larut. The wars were referred to as the Larut War. They were divided into sub-groups of societies (kongsi): the Ghi Hin and Hai San. The war extended beyond the boundaries of Perak into Pulau Pinang. The British had to intervene to restore peace by sending their troops. In return, they received compensation from Che’ Ngah Ibrahim (the son of Che’ Long Jaafar), the richest man in Perak at the time. In recognition of his contribution to the state, Che’ Ngah Ibrahim was bestowed the title Orang Kaya Menteri Paduka Tuan, with the district of Larut as his territory from Sungai Kerian to Sungai Beruas. He was so influential that the British called him Raja Larut. In 1865, during the second Larut War, Sultan Jaafar Muazzam Shah passed away and was interred at Pulau Juar, Kampung Gajah, in the district of Perak Tengah. He was conferred the title Marhum Waliullah. Almarhum was interred near the tomb of Almarhum Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah, the 20th Perak Sultan. 91

J.W.W. Birch (centre, standing), visiting Kuala Selangor in 1875. Birchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interference in the state administrative matters was problematic and not well received. He was assassinated in Pasir Salak in 1875. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives

Sultan Ismail Mu’abidin Riayat Shah 25th Sultan | 1871 to 1874

Raja Ismail was the son of Raja Nandak binti Sultan Ahmaddin Shah, whose husband was Saiyid Shaikh Al-Khairat, a prince from Siak. He was the grandson of the 18th Sultan of Perak, Sultan Ahmaddin Shah (1786-1806). He was not the Raja Muda of Perak then but had been the Raja Bendahara since 1857. The Raja Muda was Raja Abdullah ibni Almarhum Sultan Jaafar. Raja Muda Abdullah, who resided at Batak Rabit, was invited to present himself in Sayong to be enthroned as the new Sultan when Sultan Ali Al-Mukammal Inayat Shah (1865-1871) passed away. Raja Muda Abdullah feared for his safety and chose not to make the journey to Sayong. He was concerned that Raja Yusuf ibni Almarhum Sultan Abdullah Muhammad I, who coveted the throne, would ambush his entourage. Raja Yusuf was the son of Sultan Abdullah Muhammad Shah, who retreated to Durian Sebatang in 1853 due to the power struggle. Raja Ngah Jaafar, the son of Sultan Abdul Malik Mansur Shah (1806-1825), appointed himself the Sultan of Perak in 1856 supported by influential Perak chiefs. After about a month of waiting for the arrival of Raja Muda Abdullah, the Perak chiefs decided to enthrone Raja Bendahara Ismail as the new Sultan. Sultan Ismail Mu’abidin Riayat Shah resided in Belanja, now called Kampung Raja, near Pekan Parit in Perak Tengah. The domestic turmoil among the members of royalty continued during his reign, with Raja Yusuf fighting to claim the throne. Raja Muda Abdullah, too, fought for the throne claiming that he was the rightful heir and that Sultan Ismail’s succession should not be recognised. Che’ Ngah Ibrahim, the Menteri of Larut, also believed that he had the right to be the Sultan as he regarded Larut as his rightful property. During this power struggle among the royal factions, the turmoil in Perak worsened with the most intense fighting occurring among the Chinese in Larut in 1872. The conflict among the Chinese territorial-dialect groups could not be resolved by the Sultan. The instability in Perak opened up an opportunity for the British to exert their power. On 30th December 1873, Raja Muda Abdullah wrote a letter to Sir Andrew Clarke, the British Governor in Singapore, requesting the British intervene and help put an end to the fighting in Perak. He said that if he was the ruler he would accept British protection in Perak, which led to the appointment of a British Resident in Perak. 93

J.W.W. Birch’s grave is located on the bank of Sungai Perak in Pasir Pulai, about 24 kilometres from Pasir Salak, December 2017. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

A meeting was then held on Pangkor Island between Sir Andrew Clarke and Raja Muda Abdullah together with four of the Perak chiefs – Temenggung, Laksamana, Syahbandar, and Datuk Sagor (Fawzi, 1986). The Chinese leaders were also invited to a meeting in Pangkor a day earlier. On 20th January 1874, the Pangkor Treaty was signed by the Sultan, Bendahara, Che’ Ngah Ibrahim, Syahbandar, Laksamana and Dato’ Sagor (see Ramli Ngah Talib, 1997). The terms included an agreement that Raja Muda Abdullah would be enthroned as the Sultan of Perak, and the newly enthroned Sultan was to accept a British Resident. The advice given by the British Resident must be implemented except for matters pertaining to Islam and the Malay tradition. J.W.W. Birch was appointed as the first British Resident in Perak following the signing of the treaty. Another set of treaties was also signed with the Chinese leaders of the Ghi Hin and Hai San secret societies a day earlier. They agreed not to continue with the fights in the Larut War. The signing of the Pangkor Treaty marked the beginning of the British administrative era in the country (Ramli Ngah Talib, 1997). Sultan Ismail felt deceived and opposed the treaty. On 14th December 1874, Birch put forth a motion on tax collection which was not agreed to by Sultan Abdullah. His interference in the state administration was problematic and incurred the wrath of the chieftains. Birch was subsequently killed at Pasir Salak in Perak Tengah on 2nd November 1875. The British were determined to capture those who conspired to carry out the assassination. Among those accused of being anti-British were Sultan Ismail, the Maharaja Lela, Pandak Indut (who actually stabbed Birch) and Dato’ Sagor (Fawzi, 1986). While Sultan Abdullah was convicted of conspiracy in killing Birch and was sent into exile in the Seychelles, Sultan Ismail was given consent by the British to reside in Johor (Fawzi, 1986; Buyong, 1972). He later passed away and was interred in Bukit Mahmudiah, Johor Bahru and was conferred the title Marhum Mangkat in Skudai, Johor. 94

From Perak Tengah to Bukit Chandan

Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah inspecting a guard of honour at Istana Iskandariah on the morning of his enthronement, as the 35th Sultan of Perak, 6 May 2015. NSTP PHOTO / Aizuddin Saad 98

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Istana Kenangan was a royal residence built in 1926 for Sultan Iskandar Shah while the main palace, Istana Iskandariah, was under construction, December 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

he majority of the earlier Perak Sultans either resided or were interred in Perak Tengah. The capital was later moved to several other places, including Teluk Intan, Sayong before finally settling at its current location in Bukit Chandan,

Kuala Kangsar. A number of the other Sultans who neither ruled from Perak Tengah nor were interred within the district, are highlighted below. The 2nd Sultan, Sultan Mansur Shah I, resided in Kota Lama Kanan, Kuala Kangsar. As he went missing in 1577, his symbolic tomb was placed in the mosque there. Sultan Tajul Arifin (4th Sultan; 1584-1594) also set his capital in Kampung Semat, Kuala Kangsar, where he was later interred. Another Sultan who resided in Kuala Kangsar in the earlier days was Sultan Mansur Shah II. He was the 7th Sultan of Perak and died in Acheh. Sultan Abdullah Muhammad Shah I (22nd Sultan; 1851-1857) resided and was interred in Durian Sebatang, now known as Teluk Intan in the district of Hilir Perak. He fled to Durian Sebatang and continued to reside there when a conflict occurred among the royalty during his reign. Sultan Ali Al-Mukammal Inayat Shah (24th Sultan; 1865-1871) resided in Sayong and was entombed in Batak Rabit, near Teluk Intan. As per the terms of the Pangkor Treaty, Sultan Abdullah

Muhammad Shah II (1874-1876) was enthroned as the 26th Sultan and resided in Batak Rabit. Upon his return from exile in the Seychelles in 1894, Sultan Abdullah resided in Singapore, then Pulau Pinang and finally returned to Kuala Kangsar in 1922. He was interred in Bukit Chandan in Kuala Kangsar and conferred the title Marhum Habibullah. Sultan Yusuf Sharifuddin Muzaffar Shah, who was the 27th Sultan of Perak (Regent: 1877-1886, Sultan: 1886-1887) also resided in Batak Rabit and was interred in Sayong in Kuala Kangsar. He was conferred the title Marhum Gharirullah. All of the earlier Sultans of Perak till Sultan Yusuf Sharifuddin Muzaffar Shah resided on the right bank of Sungai Perak, from Tanah Abang to Sayong. This was in accordance with Sultan Muzaffar Shah’s agreement with Tok Temong. However, a palace was built on the left bank of Sungai Perak during the reign of Sultan Idris Murshidul A’azam Shah (28th Sultan; 1887-1916) in Bukit Chandan in 1895 and it has been the palace for Perak Sultans till today. The capitals of the Perak Sultanate included Tanah Abang, Kota Lama Kanan, Geronggong, Semat, Bota Kanan, Lambor Kanan, Pulau Chempaka Sari, Pulau Indera Sakti, Pasir Panjang Indera Mulia, Pasir Pulai Indera Mulia, Bandar Baharu, Teluk Memali, Durian Sebatang, Sayong, Batak Rabit and finally Bukit Chandan. They were the settings of major turning points not only in Perak’s history, but the shaping of Malaysia today. 101

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The Heritage

he tranquil scenic view of Sungai Perak conceals a million stories of villagersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives. Removed from the sultanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court and palace intrigue, the riverbanks became the seats of the communities in the early days. The river was the primary means of transportation and the centre of their daily activities. The village population had expanded for hundreds of years along with their own distinct cultures and traditions. The Perak Malay culture became more significant upon the enthronement of Sultan Muzaffar Shah as the heir of the Sultan of Melaka in Tanah Abang (Fawzi, 1986). Even though a little beyond the royal tombs of the past Sultans in Perak Tengah, the Malay communities here have inherited a rich architectural and cultural heritage. 103

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Rumah Kutai or Kutai House is a traditional type of Malay house in Perak, and has been in existence since the 1800s. The usage of the Open Plan concept (a short bay-space) is visible in this example. The name ‘Kutai’ means old or ancient. Most of the houses have been renovated and have lost some of their original features, December 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

Architectural Heritage

he Malay villages in Perak Tengah preserve a rich architectural heritage. Frequent floods have put a number of historical buildings at risk. However, conservation efforts preserve several examples of traditional Perak houses within the Sungai Perak riverine communities, specifically in Perak Tengah. Local researchers, Mohd Sabrizaa, Firdaus Al-Siddiq and Norhasandi (2010), conducted a study on architectural heritage in the vicinity of Perak Tengah, specifically in the Malay villages along Sungai Perak. They described the designs of the houses in the state as either Vernacular Malay or Colonial architecture. They also said that the houses in the Vernacular Malay architecture category have two main designs – Rumah Bumbung Melayu or Rumah Kutai; and Rumah Limas Bumbung Perak or Potong Belanda. A survey conducted by Nasir (1988) discovered that a number of Kutai houses are still found in Bota along Sungai Perak. A distinctive feature of the Kutai house is the extensive use of the open plan concept, referring to a short bay-space (Mohamad Tajuddin, 2005). Other researchers, Wahab, Ahmad, Kamal, and Mustafa (2006), indicated that Rumah Kutai is an architectural heritage that can only be found in the state of Perak Darul Ridzuan. The meaning of Kutai in the language of the local people is ‘old’, hence referring to a house of old age. 105

Details of Kutai house. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad 106

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Rumah Perak Potong Perak in Bota, December 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

The styles of Potong Belanda, also known as Limas Bumbung Perak, are unique to Perak. Architectural elements like Tunjuk Langit, Kepala Cicak, Papan Cantik, Kepala Tingkap, Kepala Pintu are visible as fundamental aspects of the design which accentuate the exclusivity of its character to Perak houses (Mohd Sabrizaa, Firdaus Al-Siddiq and Norhasandi, 2010). These elements are distinctly Malay architecture. Conservation of these precious heritage buildings can be seen in several initiatives, for example Kutai house in Bota. Kompleks Sejarah Pasir Salak (KSPS) in Teluk Intan is also another effort that showcases the history on British Resident J.W.W. Birch. This is an ongoing effort that requires support from locals and visitors alike. There is hence a need for more emphasis on preserving the Perak heritage here in order to protect the legacy of the Sungai Perak riverine. 109

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Rumah Limas Potong Belanda in Bota Kanan, December 2016. Rumah Limas Potong Belanda is said to have been influenced by the colonial buildings with a number of other details added on to the traditional designs of Perak houses. For example, a front porch as illustrated in the picture above (Mohamad Tajuddin et al, 2005). The frontmost main part of the house is in a protruding fashion referred to as the anjung (porch). NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

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Newly-wed Mai Ainin Sofiya Mior Yazid on her wedding day in Pulau Misa, Bota Kiri, September 2016. Her elegant garments reflect the traditional identity of Perak. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad

Cultural Heritage

ome of the traditional cultural activities in Perak Tengah district, including arts (like certain types of dances) and crafts like tekad (gold thread embroidered on velvet pieces), are unique to Perak. These inherited cultures mostly originated from the royal traditions that once upon a time were the centre of life in Perak Tengah. It is believed that the Malay culture revolves around the royal traditions that can be depicted in the following pantun (poem). Benih disemai pohon berbuah, Hasilnya durian kutipan dikaut; Tanah permai buminya bertuah, Kepadanya sultan budaya tertaut. Malay society traditionally placed the sultanate tradition as a central focus that eventually shaped the traditions of the overall communities. This sentiment is well depicted in the above poem. The spirit of â&#x20AC;&#x153;a just king is a worshipped kingâ&#x20AC;? (raja adil raja disembah) was strongly engraved in the hearts of the Malay society during that time. The sultanate tradition played a crucial role in shaping the societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture. Traditional music and dance are amongst the most evident examples of cultural heritage that can still be seen today. For instance, a special set of instruments only played during royal events is still an essential part of palace ceremonies and events. 112

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Sultan of Perak enthronement supplement. The Straits Times, Friday, 25 October 1963. The Enthronement of Sultan Idris Shah. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives

Nobat

he richness of the royal tradition can be well depicted, especially in the use of the royal musical instrument ensemble called Nobat, played specifically during the Sultan’s enthronement ceremonies and other royal events. The use of royal musical instruments in the royal ceremony is also a part of the manifestation of sovereignty of the institution. In Perak, the royal musical instruments are part of the treasured royal regalia which is the symbol of the Sultan’s sovereignty. Nobat has a close relation to Perak Tengah in two ways. Nobat was brought into Perak from Melaka by the first Sultan, Sultan Muzaffar Shah, along with many other royal regalia through Tanah Abang, now known as Teluk Bakong. The Nobat is more than just a musical ensemble and can only be played by Orang Kalur descendants (Raja Iskandar, 2009). Orang Kalur are said to have originated from Pulau Tiga, Perak Tengah. Hence, the privilege of playing Nobat exclusively belongs to Orang Kalur descendants of Perak from Kampung Pulau Tiga located in Perak Tengah (Rafiq, 2015). There are a number of interpretations of the history of the Orang Kalur. The origin of the word Kalur comes from Kalau which brings the meaning of island in classic Malay language (Linehan, 1951). Folklore from the older generations mention that Orang Kalur were also referred to as Orang Muntah Lembu. It was narrated in the Malay Annals that a man named Bat was incarnated from the foam of a cow’s vomit. The cow was ridden by Nila Pahlawan, Kerisyna Pendita and Nila Utama (Shellabear, 1977), who were regarded as legendary ancestors of a great dynasty. The legendary sword, Cura Si Manjakini, was said to be carried by Sang Nila Utama. Besides being involved in Nobat, the Orang Kalur also serves as Toh Seri Nara Diraja or the chief herald of the palace. Toh Seri Nara Diraja, has an important task during the enthronement ceremony of the Perak Sultan, specifically during Tabal Adat and Tabal Pusaka. He would be the person that hands over the Cura Si-Manjakini sword and presents the Mestika Embun, inserts the Cap Halilintar behind the right ear of His Royal Highness following which the Rahsia Nisab Sultani is whispered. He is also involved in the Mengambil Air Bersiram Tabal. 115

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Children of Pulau Misa, in their Malay busana costume, proudly join their â&#x20AC;&#x153;brothers and sistersâ&#x20AC;? in performing dances in Pulau Misa, August 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad 117

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Royal Sword Bearers, Enthronement of Sultan Abdul Aziz Al Mutassim Billah Shah, 4 March 1939. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE /Archives

The involvement of Orang Kalur signifies the strong relationship of the people within Perak Tengah in the Perak Sultanate ruling tradition. The origins of Nobat can be traced back to four centuries ago. It was said that Nobat was introduced by Permaisuri Bentan. According to another opinion, Nobat originated from the Sanskrit word ‘NAO – BAT’ divided into two syllables, ‘NAU – O – NAVA’ which means nine. ‘BAT – O – BAH’ means consolidation (Leinehan, 1951). Leinehan further described that there are others who believe that Nobat originates from the Middle East, brought in by Arabic or Persian merchants. The notes for Nobat songs are called ‘dai’ and are written in Jawi, an Arabic alphabet for writing the Malay language. Every unit of the instrument has its own special characteristics and functions that bring about the uniqueness of the songs played. Nobat consists of seven members led by a Penghulu, assisted by a Kalau Besar. The Penghulu, apart from playing his role as the person that looks after the group, is also responsible for appointing and training new members. The safety and care of the Nobat instruments is also part of the Penghulu’s responsibility. The Nobat ensemble consists of Gendang Nobat (Double Headed Drum), Gendang Peningkah (Smaller Double Headed Drum), Serunai (Quadruple Reed shawm), Nafiri (Long Silver Horn) and Gendang Nengkara (Kettledrum) (Raja Iskandar, 2009). Other states that play Nobat are Selangor, Kedah and Terengganu, with some differences from Perak Nobat. For example, Gong in Kedah and Kopak-kopak in Terengganu. Its music provides a glimpse of the glorious past (Raja Iskandar, 2009). 119

Perak in the 1880s

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Traditional Music and Folk Dance

he palace had a strong influence on peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daily lives in the traditional Malay culture (Linehan, 1951). Dances were very often associated with entertainment in the royal palace. There are, however, dances formed based on expressions by the communities which are closely related to their surrounding situations and activities. Dance heritage in Perak Tengah is related to both rituals and communal entertainment. An interview with Tan Sri Ramli Ngah Talib, who grew up in Pasir Salak, Perak Tengah, and later became the state Menteri Besar, described several types of tradional Malay dances in Perak Tengah. The dances in Perak Tengah include Tarian Bubu, Tarian Lokah and Tarian Dabus. These dances are referred to by the locals as Bubu, Lotah, and Dabus (Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim, 2013). Today the three dances are performed mainly at weddings and official events. Young villager Siti Lailatul Aqma Saiful Al Hafiz, 6, in her Malay busana, proudly joins her friends in performing dances in Pulau Misa, August 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad 122

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Tarian Dabus

A Tarian Dabus dancer uses anak dabus to stab himself during a performance, 1981. 125

Berita Harian, Thursday, 16 October 2008. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives 126

arian Dabus, which is referred to as the most dominant dance in comparison with the other three, has been known in Perak for more than a hundred years (Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim, 2013). Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim explained that there are three kinds of Tarian Dabus identified in Perak – Susun Sireh (betel sorting), Ayun Tajak (hoe swaying) and Lang Sewah (pouncing eagle). It is believed that Tarian Dabus orginated from the Middle East, and was brought into Perak by Muslim merchants. Tarian Dabus is a combination of singing, dancing and using a tool called anak dabus to stab or poke themselves during the dancing. The dancers appear to be in a trance when performing Tarian Dabus. The history of Tarian Dabus can be traced back to the period of Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) and was performed during a battle between the fourth Caliph Saidina Ali and troops led by Jamal, Siffin and Nahrawan (Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim, 2013). It has since then been performed as a form of art. The former Menteri Besar of Perak, Tan Sri Ramli Ngah Talib, shared there is a strong belief that Tarian Dabus initially arrived in Malaysia through Perak Tengah. Similarly, researchers like Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim (2013) mentioned that Tarian Dabus was first introduced in Tanjung Bidara, Pulau Tiga and Kampung Gajah of Perak Tengah. They further narrated that an old folktale passed down by generations mentioned that Tarian Dabus was brought in by Tok Pawang Bakar, a native who travelled to Acheh. Tok Pawang Bakar passed down the art of the Tarian Dabus to Tok Banda Cu Biduan and later to his son Alang Dolah, this formed the beginning of the training chains through generations which withstood the test of time. The dance can mainly be found in Kampung Tanjung Bidara in the district of Hilir Perak, Pulau Tiga in the district of Perak Tengah and Kampung Pasir Panjang Laut in the district of Manjung. In this Tarian Dabus performance, anak dabus, which is a tool held by the dancers, is an essential feature. The Four-Pointed Anak Dabus symbolises the four elements of earth, water, fire and air. It represents spirit, strength, confidence and sincerity in doing a task. The dancers jiggle the anak dabus to produce a crackling sound in repeated rhythmic patterns. Tarian Dabus has its own uniqueness and every step has a distinct meaning. For example, the act of stabbing or poking while dancing signifies the strength of the warriors. The dancers recite zikir (the act of chanting compliments to Allah, the Almighty, and ratib) while in a semi-trance. This is accompanied by the beatings of the dabus drum and the crackling sound of the anak dabus (Harun Mat Piah, 2006). The following lyrics that accompany Tarian Dabus depict the Islamic values of devotion to Allah, love to His Messenger and the importance of seeking knowledge (cited in Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hisham; 2013): Baju putih serban putih, Lalu dibawé pergi sembahyang, Allah kasih Muhammad kasih, Rasulullah terlalu sayang. Tuan Haji berbaju jubah, Pergi ke padang berburu rusé, Orang mengaji memuji Allah, Orang sembahyang mengampun dosé. Tetak tebu kilaskan dayung, Hendak mendayung selat Melaké, Tuntut ilmu buatkan payung, Buat mendinding api neraké. 127

Dancers perform Tarian Lotah, 1996. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE /Archives

Tarian Lotah

otah, or known as Belotah, is a dance accompanied by singing which is usually done by the village folk. It is associated with a ritual that is performed during the harvest of paddy with the hope that the yield will be plentiful. The dance movement mimics the act of farmers when separating the grains from the stalks during harvesting. The female dancers would carry nyiru, a pan made of rattan, their dancing steps reflecting the action of separating the grains from husks. The dancers would trample on the paddy in a circle while exchanging pantun (Malay poems) with the chanting of ‘lotah…lotah...heilah...le’. The atmosphere is full of happiness and friendliness as the people tease each other through the pantun exchanges, especially between the young boys and girls. There is a folktale (cited in Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim, 2013) in Tarian Lotah, about a family migrating from their village by the Sungai Perak riverbank to a new place at the edge of a hilly forest. The leader of the family, Bilal Batak, cleared the forest for farming, primarily for the planting of upland rice. This family had small children, a boy and a girl. The brother was asked to take care of his younger sister when his parents were out at work. When the parents returned to check on the two siblings, they realised that the younger sister had disappeared. They started looking for their little child but their effort was in vain. It was said that on that night when they were asleep, Bilal had a dream that their daughter turned into a ‘paddy spirit’. In the dream, Bilal was asked to make a platform to thresh the paddy if he wanted to see his daughter again. The next day, the family worked hard to build the platform. Bilal Batak’s family then took out the paddy heaps from the pinuh (storage for rice) and placed them neatly on the platform. They began the lotah singing while the paddy heaps were threshed with their feet. It was at that very moment their lost child’s voice was heard but it vanished soon after. Whenever Bilal Batak’s family missed the lost child, they would make the platform and sing the lotah song to hear the voice again. 128

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Malay fishermen use bubu, or lukah, a tool to catch fish in Sungai Linggi. The picture was taken in 1974.

Berita Harian, Thursday, 24 December 1987. NSTP RESOURCE CENTRE / Archives 130

Tarian Bubu

arian Bubu is also known as the Tarian Lukah Menari. It was well-known in the area of Kampung Tanjong Bidara, Perak Tengah. Tan Sri Ramli Ngah Talib mentioned that Tarian Bubu was famous, especially amongst the fishermen communities in Perak Tengah. The name bubu is from the use of bubu, or lukah, in this dance. Bubu, a tool to catch fish, is used by Malay fishermen. Tarian Bubu has been performed by dancers in Perak for 122 years and is still active till this day (Sulong et al., 2013). The dance is believed to have been created by a shaman named Pandak Keladi. While waiting for some fish to be trapped in the ‘bubu’ or ‘lukah’, the traditional Malay communities created beautiful songs and poems that accompanied the dancing. A way to have some fun while waiting for the haul. The lyrics during the dance performance contain motivational elements. The lyrics also contain some Islamic teachings emphasising following the right path towards Allah, the Almighty. The core of Islamic beliefs is expressed in the following lyrics (cited in Sulong, Lailiddin and Nor Hashim, 2013): Budaklah budak pergi mengaji Lagi mendapat..eheheh..le..lah lagi terpuji Cukuplah Mekah pergi haji Dapat berziarah..eheheh..le..lah di makam nabi Dengun dengun kumbang berdengun Dengun pulak tangkai buluh minyak Apé kené lokah termenung Dengun melihat orang yang banyak Bi’shahril ngo bil ilah qa Badano rohol aq’la Payaha ba zal badro’ Bizaka elmal yujla 131

Noor Shahmil Husin and Mai Ainin Sofiya Mior Yazidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wedding is held on the bank of Sungai Perak in Pulau Misa, Bota Kiri, September 2016. NSTP KREATIF / Bazuki Muhammad 132

Conclusion

erak Tengah has great tourism potential in part due to its rich cultural heritage. The traditional Malay settlements along Sungai Perak are indeed blessed with heritage from hundreds of years ago. The history and stories shared within these pages are but a small offering of the vibrant past and present in the district. In particular, this book offers a peek into the glory of the Perak Tengah Sultanate. While many examples of royal structures have been lost to time, the royal tombs stand as evidence of that glory. As more people discover this hidden gem, the hope is that they will feel the same affinity for this place as do the people who have lived here for centuries. Continued education and conservation efforts will protect these architectural treasures for decades to come, as these ongoing efforts are central to posterity, as is this book, which serves as a record of all that has come before, for future generations. 133

... the tradition continues Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah wades across the waters of Beting Beras Basah, beginning his reign as the 35th Sultan of Perak. DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION

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The Editors

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Bazuki Muhammad NSTP KREATIF Creative Editor

Director, Project Management Office, UTP

Shahrina Md Nordin

Abdul Jalil Hamid

Bazuki Muhammad is an international award-winning photojournalist and an editor who has covered assignments with Reuters, and for publications in the United States and Malaysia for 25 years. A USeducated architect, Bazuki spent 10 years in Louisiana and Tennessee experimenting with his “Thinking Eyes” before shooting for the London-based news agency Reuters for 17 years in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Bazuki won Publish Asia’s Best in Sports Photography for two consecutive years in 2002 and 2003. Bazuki covered the London Olympics, cyclone Nargis in Myanmar, U.S. President Bush in Japan, the war in Afghanistan, tsunami in Thailand, Hajj in Mecca, and Thailand’s political turmoil. Bazuki was the photography adviser to Malaysia’s New Straits Times Press and now is the founder and manager of its new NSTP Kreatif. Bazuki is an alumnus of College of Design, School of Architecture, Louisiana State University. Bazuki is at bazuki.com.

Assoc. Prof. Dr Shahrina Md Nordin is the Director of Project Management Office, Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS, that oversees the implementation of strategic initiatives of the University. Apart from sitting in the University’s management and leadership team, she is also the founding Head of Centre of Social Innovation. She also leads the University’s overall Corporate Social Responsibility for community empowerment of the less privilege and the poor in targeted localities. She works closely with NGOs, government agencies and the corporate sector to uplift the lives of the poor and the marginalized. At the state level, she served as a member of the Perak Women Empowerment Council and is a Leader of MELTA state chapter. She was the main author of a book entitled “Towards Academic Excellence in Perak”. She plays a key role in the formation of the Malaysian Social Business Network developed under the Nobel Laureate Professor Yunus for community development and poverty eradication. She also works closely with international advocates in Australia, Japan, Taiwan, Thailand, Bangladesh and other countries in leading towards the establishment of the Asia-Pacific Social Business Network. She has received multiple awards for her research and academic publications, including Highly Commended Paper Award by Emerald, an international publisher.

Datuk Abdul Jalil Hamid was appointed as Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of The New Straits Times Press (Malaysia) Berhad effective from March 2017. Jalil was made the Group Managing Editor of NSTP in October 2011. He ran NSTP’s editorial departments, overseeing the print and digital content of the three newspapers in the group. Prior to this, he set up and headed the National Communications Team, a special unit under the Prime Minister’s Office. The Unit spearheaded strategic communications advice and planning for the government. Before his stint at the Prime Minister’s Office, Jalil was the Senior General Manager and Head of Corporate Affairs Department at the Securities Commission Malaysia where he was in charge of planning, developing and executing overall communications strategies as well as managing stakeholder relationship and issue management for the capital market regulator. Previously, he worked for Reuters for 18 successful years. Among the positions he held were Chief Political Correspondent and Deputy Bureau Chief for Reuters in Malaysia and Brunei between 1998 and 2008. He covered the 1997/1998 Asian financial crisis and the challenging Malaysian political and economic developments until 2009. He was also posted to Reuters offices in London, Singapore and Jakarta during his service, where he covered commodities for the European markets, equities and Asian general and political news. Jalil earlier served in Bernama for seven years in several capacities. He currently sits on the Board of Bernama and few other organisations.

NSTP Chief Executive Officer

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WITH HEARTFELT APPRECIATION CONSULTANT EDITOR

Mohd Annuar Bin Zaini Ahli Dewan Negara Perak

CONTRIBUTORS

Tan Sri Dato’ Seri Diraja Ramli Bin Ngah Talib

Orang Kaya-Kaya Seri Agar Diraja Menteri Besar Perak (1983 - 1999)

Dato’ Seri Ir. Mohamad Othman Bin Zainal Azim Orang Kaya-Kaya Seri Adika Raja Shahbandar Muda

138

Professor Emeritus Tan Sri Dr. Khoo Kay Kim

Kol. (R) Dato’ Abd. Rahim Bin Mohamad Nor Dato’ Pengelola Bijaya Diraja Comptroller of the Royal Household

2017 | EDITION ONE | ISBN 978-983-871-049-7

Thank You UTP Vice Chancellor, Datuk Ir. (Dr) Abdul Rahim Hashim Pawang DiRaja Ayahanda Pak Daeng Selili Research Associate, Deeya Menon UTP Senior Manager Corporate Services, Shamsina Shaharun The New Straits Times, Executive Editor, Production, Rajan David Christy NSTP Executive Editor, Special Project, Azizi Othman UTP Editorial Services Executive, Wan Madihah W. A. Rahman Jauhari Perak Tengah District Officer, Tuan Muhamad Ghopran Yeop Hamzah NSTP Resource Centre, Ramlan Ramli, Mohd Isam Mohd Rasip NSTP Photo, Azhar Mat Ganti UTP Photographer, Hazrin Ismail UTP Fund Raising, M. Fatimie Irzaq Khamis, Arfaishah M Arih UTP Copyediting, Jennifer Freely Rosli Manap, Jamaluddin Samsuddin, Ammar Redza Ahmad Rizal, Junaida Yahya, Nor Syakinah Roslan, Ahmad Yusuf Amiruddin, and Kamariah Abu Saed.

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References

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Abd Rashid M.S., Mat N., Che Amat S. (2010). Reinventing Sungai Perak: An Issue on Socio-Cultural Marginalisation. The International Geographical Union (IGU) Commision on Marginalization, Globalization and Regional and Local Responses, 6th to 8th July 2009, UiTM Shah Alam, Malaysia. BERNAMA. (2015, 6 May). Sultan: Istiadat Tabal Adat Sultan Perak XXXV Berlangsung Penuh Tradisi. Retrieved from www. bernama.com. Buyong Adil (1972). Sejarah Perak. Kuala Lumpur: Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. Fawzi Basri (1986). Cempaka Sari – Sejarah Kesultanan Negeri Perak. Perak: Yayasan Perak. Halim Nasir (1985), Pengenalan Rumah Tradisional Melayu Semenanjung Malaysia, Darul Fikir: Kuala Lumpur. Harun Mat Piah (2006). Magis dan implikasinya dalam Lagu-lagu Tradisional Melayu (ms 27–44) dalam Lagu Rakyat: Memupuk Kesantunan Melayu, penyelenggara Rogayah A. Hamid & Jumaah Ilias. Kuala Lumpur: Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. Linehan, W. (1951) The Nobat and the Orang Kalau of Perak. Journal of the Malayan Branch, Royal Asiatic Society, 24, 3 (1951), 60-68. Milena Rampoldi. Retrieved www.mintpressnews.com. Mohd Taib Osman (1989). Malay Folk Beliefs, An Integration of Disparate Elements. Kuala Lumpur: Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. Mohamad Tajuddin Mohd Rasdi, Kamaruddin Moh Ali, Syed Ahmad Iskandar Syed Ariffin, Ra’alah Mohamad, Gurupiah Mursib (2015). The Architectural Heritage of the Malay World: The Traditional Houses. Johor: UTM. Perak Today, The Portal. 13 May 2015. peraktoday.com.my. Ramli Ngah Talib (1997). Pasir Salak: Sehamparan Sejarah Perjuangan. Perak: Yayasan Perak. Raja Berpelembagaan Malaysia – Raja-raja Melayu Abadke-21 (2012). Selangor: Kaedah Kota Management (M) Sdn Bhd. Raja Iskandar R. I.(2009). Orang Kalur- Musicians of the Royal Nobat of Perak. Retrivedfromsembangkuala. files.wordpress. com. Sembangkuala, sembangkuala.wordpress.com. Sinar Online. (2015, 14 May). Penuh Adat: Sultan Perak Ziarah Beting Beras Basah. Retrived from www. sinarharian.com.my. Shellabear, W.G. (1977). Sejarah Melayu. Kuala Lumpur: Penerbit Fajar Bakti. Sulong M. A., Saidon Z. L., Nor Hashim N. S, “ (2013). Muzik Tradisi Tari Rakyat Perak: Suatu Pendekatan Etnomuzikologi” Malaysia Music Journal, Vol 2, No. 1, 72-105. Utusan Online, (2015, 13 May). Imbau Sejarah Bermulanya Kesultanan Melayu Perak: Sultan Nazrin Tunku Zara Salim Ziarah Makam Sultan Pertama. Retrieved from www.utusan.com.my. Winstedt, R.O and R.J. Wilkinson (1974) A History of Perak. Kuala Lumpur: Malaysian Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society. Wahab, L. A., Ahmad, A. G., Kamal, K. S., & Syed, S. H., Mustafa. (2006). Rumah Kutai: Warisan Senibina Melayu Negeri Perak yang Semakin Pupus. PROCEEDINGS: 2nd ASEAN POST GRADUATE SEMINAR IN BUILT ENVIRONMENT, 4-6 DECEMBER 2006, KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA, pp 157-166. Retrieved April 19, 2017, from http://buildingconservation. blogspot.my/2007/03/rumah-kutai-warisan-senibina- melayu.html 141

This Book is Made Possible with the Generous Support of

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THE HISTORIC ROYAL GLORY OF PERAK TENGAH

PERAK SULTANATE

ABDUL JALIL HAMID

Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS The New Straits Times Press (Malaysia) Berhad

THE HISTORIC ROYAL GLORY OF PERAK TENGAH

“This book, with its fascinating stories seen through the heritage of the Perak sultanate and traditional Malay community in this Silver State, recognises the importance of cultural continuity and human history in nourishing social cohesion. The rich historical tapestry that’s been woven in the following pages offer readers a sense of belonging - to the culture and place - and this in turn, creates the context from which one is able to understand the past and contemplate the future.” Datuk Ir (Dr) Abdul Rahim Hashim, Vice Chancellor, Universiti Teknologi PETRONAS.

NEW STRAITS TIMES PRESS

Perak sultanate