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RANG MAHAL, JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
Nestled within the lauded five-star JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, is the newly refreshed and reopened Rang Mahal (translates to ‘Palace of Colours’), which celebrates cuisine from India in all its diversity. The restaurant boasts an intimate setting with lit-up Indian murals, vibrant colours interspersed about, colossal carved-wood columns and a glass-walled kitchen to one side, offering a glimpse into the culinary magic being rustled up by chef Alok Kumar and the culinary team, led by chef Moritz Neumann.
Words by Serena Botelho e Warren
The highlights:
The menu is vast but well-thought-out, featuring traditional and contemporary Vegetarian appetisers, Non-vegetarian appetisers, Curries, Masala dishes, Bhuna (a dry-fry dish), signature specials, Sides, Rice, Raita, Biryani, Bread and finally, Desserts from across India. Each sounded simply delicious and hence, it got a bit tough to choose. My dining partner wandered off to have a look around the Rang Mahal lounge area, comprising a selection of beverages creatively curated to compliment the heritage culinary classics. A platter of mixed pickle, pineapple and mint chutney made its way to our table alongside a portion of rice papadums - we were off to a good start. The Mangalorean ghee roast prawns followed, topped with curry leaves, grated coconut and served alongside khakhra (a crispy flat bread) to scoop the rich semi-dry gravy. The Minced lamb kebabs soon arrived, cooked
tandoori style with radish, pickled onions and pomegranate purée on the side. We decided to have a taste of the infused beverages and loved the interesting use of ingredients such as saffron, pimento, rose, honey and chilli, served creatively in enjoyable sips. A moreish Cottage cheese kofta was up next, and if you do love a creamy, sweetsour curry, do give this dish a try. I used a piece of flatbread to mop up the last bits from the serving bowl. The Southern-style pulled lamb is a melt-in-your-mouth, scrumptious dish best eaten with the flaky, layered Laccha paratha (flatbread). Indian cuisine enthusiasts will recognise familiar flavours in each dish, and still be blown away by the simplicity yet sophistication of each. Cooked in a banana leaf and packed with both large and small prawns, cashew nuts and spices, the Prawn biryani was fluffy, light, moist and not at all greasy. Since we had eaten more than we imagined, we shared just one dessert the Cassata kulfi. The inspiration for the treat comes from Italy, where cassata is a traditional cake from Sicily
that consists of sponge cake moistened with fruit juices and layered with ricotta and candied fruit; and from India too, where kulfi is a timeless frozen dairy dessert that originated in the subcontinent in the 16th century. Rang Mahal’s interpretation includes a layer of saffron, pistachio and rabdi (a sweet, condensed-milk based pudding) with a chocolate-gold leaf, fruit purée and falooda. Absolutely splendid!
The verdict:
Ideal for intimate meals, celebrations and casual gatherings. Expect hearty, fragrant and flavour-packed dishes.
Book now:
Daily from 6pm to 12am. Call +9714 414 3000. Visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com.
November 2021 BBC Good Food Middle East 11
