festive
SEASONAL
WINTER’S FINEST
Fruit and veg can steal the show at a Yuletide gathering, whether in a savoury squash tart or pavlova piled high with apples. photographs LOUISE HAGGER
T
his month’s true star is the apple. British-grown varieties are actually at their best at this time of year, especially Russet, Pippin and Cox, which all have delicious texture and a slightly tart flavour. Baked apples are a real treat – leave them whole but remove the core, then pack the gap in the middle with mincemeat before baking and drizzling with cream. Or, if you’re looking for an alternative to traditional Christmas pudding, why not make a grand pavlova? Apples aren’t a classic topping, but once baked, they soften and work a dream with the crisp meringue shell – that’s especially so when paired with maple and pecans. Slow-cooked apples are a joy, too, and make a great base for chutney to serve with cheese and crackers. Chard is a thick, leafy vegetable with a rich, earthy flavour that’s not dissimilar to spring greens or cavolo nero. Wilt and combine with mascarpone for a decadently creamy tart filling. It’s just as lovely tossed through pasta with anchovies and lemon zest for a simple midweek meal, or simply wilted with melted butter and nutmeg to enjoy alongside roast beef. Look for both standard and rainbow varieties at the greengrocers, and don’t discard the stem – you can chop those and add to soups and stews for a delicious depth of flavour. Finally, don’t forget passion fruit. This tropical gem is at its peak in winter, and when ripe, its brightly coloured pulp is sharp and fragrant. Choose passion fruits with dark, wrinkly skin to ensure they’re ready to eat. Cook the pulp down into a zingy curd, then sandwich between sponge cakes or serve with thick yogurt and a sprinkling of granola. It can also be folded into semifreddo, an Italian ice cream-style dessert made with eggs, cream and sugar. It’s a fantastic pudding for Christmas, as it can be prepared and frozen ahead of time, then simply sliced on the day. Try combining it with white chocolate and crunchy pistachios, as I’ve done, for a sweet taste of sunshine in winter.
Esther is a freelance recipe writer and food stylist who trained at Leiths School of Food & Wine, before working as a chef in Italy. She loves to cook for friends at home and particularly enjoys creating recipes using new ingredients and seasonal produce. @esthermclark
December 2021 BBC Good Food Middle East 63
