BBC Good Food ME - June/July 2022

Page 14

Tried

tasted

Our top dining experiences this month

TRÉSIND STUDIO

Starring a breathtakingly transitional degustation menu by Chef Himanshu Saini, a culinary mastermind who is considered one of the youngest tastemakers in Indian cuisine today, diners are welcomed and ushered to their intimate tables in an intimate, dimly-lit setting with a seating capacity of just 20 people. It is then that the spectacular epicurean show begins. A grand open kitchen takes centre stage, where you can watch Chef Himanshu Saini and his team working meticulously, and soundlessly, to present culinary art that enlivens your palate. The restaurant’s distinctive style marries global ingredients with modern cooking techniques and traditional Indian

12 BBC Good Food Middle East June/July 2022

elements, with the notion of changing the perception of Indian cuisine and elevating how we experience it today. A mission they achieve. Take your appetite with you as well, for each tasting portion is generous and perfectly portioned. After a quick walk around, where we were shown a 5,000 sq ft. urban outdoor garden that was developed with a local organic farm, an al fresco space and a lounge area, we took our seats up front and centre, ready for the journey ahead.

Menu highlights:

Each dish or beverage that makes its way to your table, is accompanied by a short, impactful description of its elements. Our personalised 17-course tasting menu was to be accompanied by a beverage pairings option; and thus, we looked forward to this educative bit every single time. First up, was the Killer pandan, a femme fatale of a creative concoction teeming with infused roasted pickled peanut and green peppercorn, in homemade pandan syrup and lime juice, shaken with a white molasses brewed beverage. This innovative sip is meant to replace the bowl of peanuts one would snack on before a meal, whilst enjoying good conversation and company. This perfect gateway was followed by seven small one-bite delights, most of which include synergy pairing sips, most home-brewed. The first course comprising a Wood-apple pani puri, pomelo salad and coriander flowers was complemented by a fine, top-quality bubbly. The pani puri was an explosion of flavours and textures, readying us for the second course featuring a delicate Shiso khakra with raw mango chutney, yogurt crémeux and garden herbs. The third course, served alongside a mango lassi drink, included a Lamb and turnip kebab with a roomali roti tartlet, a garnish of a slightly cooked turnip and a charming marigold flower

atop. This lightly spiced dish perfectly encapsulated the taste of South India. Continuing with accompanying sips of mango lassi, next up was what we could describe as a warm hug, a Missi roti cracker with papadum curry and cultured butter; followed by an absolute favourite, a piece of succulent Duck cafreal with nasturtium leaf dolma and pickled cabbage. Each bite was utterly delectable. After a short breather, the gastronomic experience ensued with a serving of tangy and sweet notes, to balance the full-bodied red grape. An earthy raw Beetroot kebab with a sweet white chocolate rosette, cherry balsamic and red berry chutney to cut through the sweetness, together with amaranth and orange zest comprised the sixth course; and it was downright a feast for our senses. The seventh course, based on popular Indian street food, was a Blossom chaat, with pumpkin mash and a trio of chutney, adorned with crisp, adorable-looking edible butterflies made with potato. An orange grape teeming with apricot, saffron and cherry went hand-inhand with the eight-course, which encompassed a crunchy Padrón pepper with an emulsion of fennel flower and leaf, with buttermilk curry ice cream that is crafted to be consumed in one single bite. Ghee roast crab served in a burnt cinnamon stick, with fine crisps and curry leaf tempura made up the ninth course - a dish to remember. Paired with a sip of tomato butter juice during each bite. This sumptuous dish is served with tweezers


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