weekend
SEASONAL
JOYS OF SUMMER
Make the most of fresh cucumbers, chard and raspberries with recipes from Samuel Goldsmith photographs MOWIE KAY
A
s the summer days get warmer, the season’s harvest flourishes. There’s so much choice when it comes to fresh produce that excitement builds, too, around the many possibilities for cooking with it. Berries, especially raspberries, are top of my list. At their best, British raspberries are a sweet, pillowy bite of pleasure. It’s easy to eat mountains of them straight from the bush, but in my cake, I’ve baked them into the batter, making the most of their sweetness and sharpness. The cake is made with oil and yogurt which adds a lovely yielding texture. If you’re left with a bounty of raspberries, use them to make jam. As summer progresses, cucumbers start to make an appearance, too. Often used as a sandwich filling or tossed through a salad, I’ve instead made them the star of the show in a refreshing, cold cucumber soup. It’s a great meal for a hot summer’s evening or starter for a garden party. Mint and lime highlight the fresh cucumber flavour, while tarragon
and chives bring the soup to life with a savoury note. It’s a recipe you can easily make in a hurry – perfect for last-minute gatherings in the sun. I also like to shave cucumbers into long slices using a vegetable peeler and cook for a few minutes in herby butter for a quick side. Green, leafy veg is incredibly nutritious, and although it’s often thought of as autumnal or wintry, swiss chard is plentiful in the summer months, too. I’ve swapped out spinach for chard in my take on the Greek classic spanakopita where the chard creates a brighter filling with flecks of colour. It’s a charming light supper or lunch option, and is easily transportable, which is ideal should you need to take a dish to a party. If you’re looking for a quicker option, swiss chard is also delicious simply pan-fried with sliced chillies or chilli flakes and a good sprinkling of salt and pepper. That’s the great thing about summer produce: it can be transformed into a dish worthy of a celebration, or cooked simply with just a few ingredients and be wonderful either way.
August 2022 BBC Good Food Middle East 39
