Birmingham City University Fashion Design BA HONS 2017
Produced for Graduate Fashion Week by Birmingham City University. Claudia Huxtable Course Director BA (Hons) Fashion Design School of Fashion, Textiles and 3D Design Birmingham City University The Parkside Building 5 Cardigan Street Birmingham B4 7BD www.bcu.ac.uk www.bcuportfolio.com Twitter: @bcu_fashion Instagram: @bcu_fashion Final year Pathways in: Fashion Design Fashion Communication Design For Performance Garment Technology Printed by Belmont Press All rights reserved Copyright Š 2017 Birmingham City University
The BA (Hons) Fashion Design Course at Birmingham City University nurtures its students to become highly creative practitioners within the global fashion industry. We engage them to develop to their full potential by building knowledge, experience and skills across the spectrum of this diverse and innovative sector. With guidance, we identify their own unique niche within the industry and explore this in specific pathways: through focused projects, internships and live briefs. Our students gain links within the industry and take advantage of the course’s extensive contacts. Claudia Huxtable Course Director
CREDITS Styling - Faith Carter (unless otherwise stated) Photography Assistants Opposite page:
Our Course
5
Our Pathways
6
con neOvid quassint quidenis re, ut expel exerspe licaers piendis itaestr upiditi veliquam estiunt et volorec abore, ut aperessi ad ererum repeles cimpori as porrovid quae ilitatur molore sit aritat. Edis sit laudis as exceat ut qui volore corernatur
The Fashion Design pathway caters for students who intend to pursue careers as fashion designers and involves both conceptual and trend driven design work through experimentation with both creative cutting techniques and traditional skills. The pathway culminates in a final collection and portfolio outcome. *) Claudia Huxtable Fashion Design Pathway Leader
The Fashion Communication pathway caters for students with an avid interest in the exciting and dynamic world of communicating fashion through design, print, and digital media. Students are encouraged to submerse themselves in key industry areas that direct and promote the making process, from conceptual research, trend forecasting, and design development, to styling & art direction, branding & marketing. Student innovation, and relevance, is nurtured through diverse specialism and industry collaboration. *) Dean Fallon Fashion Communication Pathway Leader
7
The Design for Performance pathway: Fashion and costume overlap in design for contemporary performance or events, providing an opportunity for students to work in the areas of TV, film, theatre and music, creating bespoke garments for a wide range of both historical and contemporary performances. The pathway touches on character creation and is also ideally suited for
students who want to create bespoke gowns for individual clients. Final year students work on live external projects. *) Louise Chapman Design for Performance Pathway Leader
The Garment Technology pathway caters for those students who aspire to work in the pre-production area, developing design concepts, producing technical design packs through to products for mass production. This pathway considers the implications of global markets and offshore manufacturing, providing students with the opportunity to work on industry standard Gerber pattern cutting systems. Final year students are encouraged to collaborate directly with industry on live projects. *) Sheila Griffiths Garment Technology Pathway Leader
Design
STYLING by Faith Carter, 2017 Fashion Communication Graduate PHOTOGRAPHY by Tom Kennedy 8
9
10
Designer - ???
11
Designer - ???
Collection
Designer - Stephanie Hutchins
13
Collection
14
CAPTI AMOR Thomas Cox
“Is the reason purely aesthetic?”
15
16
Designer - Maisie Bruffel
17
Designer - Thomas Cox
18
Designer - Pengyu Wang
19
Designer - Maisie Bruffel
20
21
Designer - Rebekah Brennan
Designer - Hannah Walker
22
24
Designer - ???
25
Designer - Pravjot Sambhi
Designer - Jingyi Lin
28
I was fortunate to have the opportunity to not only work in New York for six months, but to also study in Milan during my degree course at Birmingham City University. Whilst studying in Italy, I discovererd a small fisherman’s island ‘Isola dei Pescatori’ on the edge of Lago Maggiore and this proved to be a real inspiration for me in terms of my designs and in particular my current collection. Against a backdrop of an island in the middle of the Italian lake region, the contrasts was vast. The wet fishing nets hanging up in an array of colours against the decaying buildings, to the various boats docked, awaiting nightfall to sail upon the lake. The cobbled streets with the bustling tourists, the chimes of the church bells, and the glorious smell of fresh and aromatic Mediterranean dishes seeping into the air emphasised the continued domicile of local residents on the island; all these aspects represented pure vibrant beauty to me.
Words STEPHANIE HUTCHINS
My womenswear collection has combined all that I loved from my experiences of visiting this island, through the choice of silhouettes, colours and texture. The result of my vast amount of primary research was an influence that enabled me to design and develop a beautiful and cohesive collection for my graduate Spring/Summer show.
“The avant garde style collection I have designed, portrays the imperfections of the human body. It highlights shapes and structure, with the restrictions of movement.�
Deconstruct
This page: Image - Hannah Allen. Quote - Pravjot Sambhi. Opposite page: Designer - ???
31
32
Opposite page: Designer - ??? This page: Designer - Elina Pagett (left) and ??? (right)
33
34
Opposite: Designer This page: Designer - Daisy Earle (left) and ??? (right)
35
“What do the advances in technology mean for couture fashion and how are they being utilised? I combined traditional making techniques such as cutting on the stand and classical construction, with technologies such as laser cutting and 3D printing.�
Develop
36
This page: Image - ???. Quote - Hannah Bridges. Opposite: Image - ???
con neOvid quassint quidenis re, ut expel exerspe licaers piendis itaestr upiditi veliquam estiunt et volorec abore, ut aperessi ad ererum repeles cimpori as porrovid quae ilitatur molore sit aritat.
37
38
Image Credit???
“A traditional Bulgarian folkloric holiday, celebrated and performed only by men has been an inspiration for creating a womenswear collection.�
39
Designer - ???
“A traditional Bulgarian folkloric holiday, celebrated and performed only by men has been an inspiration for creating a womenswear collection.�
41
This page: Designer - ???. Quote - Joana Ivanova. Opposite page: Designer - Joana Ivanova
This page: Designer - Charlotte Mary Wiles (left) Print design - Camilla Dovey (right). Opposite Page: Designer - Charlotte Mary Wiles. Model - Grace Benneworth. Hair and make-up Ceri Turner.
42
43
Communication
I wanted to represent my point of view of clothing: a studied and structured form of art that has the power to transmit messages and give a unique identity to the wearer. So I decided to create structured abstract garments made of canvas (Artists painting canvas) and hand paint them to enhance their uniqueness. I was looking for some talented artists who could paint my clothing and I found by chance (through common friends) Giulia.
WORDS by Fatima Piovesan
“The result was magnificent. I had to have his work on all three of my garments.”
This page: 5919 Abdelkader Wawi (Paris) painting on dress. Photography - Christina Negrea. Next page: Giulia Abbadessa – Bari (Italy) panting on dress. Photography - Giuseppe Chirico
Opposite:
Her style is feminine and romantic but at the same time very strong and pointed. The finished garment was definitely a beautiful and articulate painting, but it did not have the style appropriate to the essence of my collection. The second toile was painted by artist 5919. Abdelkader is a Lebanese artist living in Paris, I saw his works in his Instagram profile and immediately contacted him to ask if he was interested in a collaboration. He use the Arabic calligraphic letters to create decolarive composition, playing with brushes and colours. I sent him a first prototype to be painted quickly and see if the style matched my collection. The result was magnificent, I had to have his work on all of my three garments. So I decided to go to Paris and it was one of the most beautiful experiences of my life.
47
IMAGE CREDIT?
48
IMAGE CREDIT?
49
Image credit - ???
50
Image credit - ???
51
“...anything is possible, material is objective, and the power to manipulate is one that through constant perseverance, means the creative outcome is endless.”
This page: Illustration - Sean O’Connor. Quote - Elisha Bharaj. Opposite page: ???
53
Communicate
Idelluptat fugit, quam simporrores dolum audit fuga. Ero expediti optatia consed quiaturem fuga. Ximaio et ipient, sit qui cusciantur sitatur? Adi alitatur rem ex eum alia qui cuptatis vel molut ommodis veribernamet velentiatus rerunti busciam facerferchic tem eri ut aut quam, ut odi nonsedi genissit ut mod quate voluptate dolor aliatecus molestis enditatem dollaut eos aut quam earia deriber sp 54
Image: Designer - Michelle Aluko.
55
56
Both pages: Stylist - Courtney Campbell, Photographer - Sam Metcalfe, Assistant - Chelsea Shortt, Models - Robyn Smith and Harry Shambrook (opposite).
57
Illustration: Georgina Bethan Jenkins
When I was young, I often immersed myself in my own world and hated the chaotic society surrounding me. Growing up, I have come to learn to be gritty and have realised that social relationships are important personally. Therefore, I decided to change, slowly undergoing metamorphosis like insects. Pengyu Wang
60
Stylist - Zoe Psaras. Collaboration with Punk Posy. ModelChloe Borton, Makeup & Hair – Tia Dinneka, Photography - Jessica Lena.
Communication
WORDS by Brontie Bennett
For crazy girls, emotional girls, girls that raise their voices without fear of rebuke. Girls that give up their seat for OP’s on the bus, and girls that say f**k too much. Confident girls. Seriously sassy girls. Girls that want kids, and girls that don’t. Pro choice girls. Girls that are still waiting for “Mr Right”, and those girls that just don’t need a guy. Girls that love being a girl. Girls that do not care what anyone else thinks. Girls with style that’s always on point. Always got to have the last word girls. Trend setter, day dreamer, not afraid to talk about that deep S**T girls. Girls that know their worth. Girls that support other girls. Because... beauty is only skin deep, and you know that don’t you girls?
Quote: Philip Thomson The Grotesque, Methuen Critical Idiom Series (1972)
“...something familiar and trusted can be made strange and disturbing.”
63
Styling - Brontie Marie Bennett. Photographer – Naren Logan. Model – Sabine Misa . Make Up – Amy Stone.
Work - Brontie Marie Bennett
64
65
Styling and Art Direction - Amy McCranor
(Creative Direction)
68
Styling and art direction - Amy McCranor. Model - Eleanor Scholz. Photographer - Abbi Birtles. Make-up and hair - Shanice Nelson
WOE IS SHE’ My collection/brand ‘Woe is She’ is a concept surrounding a fictional girl (simply known as ‘She’). From an early age, she has been obsessed and devoted to having a visually beautiful life. Her need to control and create beauty around herself comes from desperately wanting to escape the mundane and suburbia, and the instinctive belief that she is meant for something more. The collection describes her evolution through pivotal films, that have both influenced her outlook on life and represent three periods/moments in her life. The first is ‘Spirited Away’, watched as a child which sparks her desire to live a visually beautiful life, as well a need to run away and find something ‘other’. The second is ‘The Virgin Suicides’, which signifies the iconic image of a teen struggling to fit in and being an outsider. Recognizing that prom is a rite of passage and a feature in the films she loves, she attends -
69
Words AMY McCRANOR
but the night ends badly, causing her to finally break. Finally, ‘Twin Peaks’, where she totally gives up on living a normal, mundane life and surrenders to the need to run away and find this something ‘other’ – even if it is a negative or evil influence. But now she has nothing left to lose, and the romance of escape is overpowering. ‘Woe is She’ is unique in that it is an artifact/accessory brand, using these large pieces as inspiration for more wearable bags - a conceptual brand, where a specific audience buy into an idea, rather than standard clothing. While the muse is fictional, she is someone that so many young women can identify with, meaning that the tribe and the concept of the brand are the same. It also engages the tribe directly in their interests and hobbies, as they inspire the work. Amy McCranor
Work - CREDIT???
70
Designer - Rebekah Brennan. FAD X Missoni Competition Finalist
71
IDENTITY WEB An alter ego is defined as a different version of yourself - the opposite side of a personality. It’s becoming increasingly difficult to separate the reality of our own lives with the one we inhabit online. Exploring ourselves online is never new - however, the way we construct our realities are increasingly easier to exploit and manipulate. Do we live more wholly in cyberspace or in the flesh? Is our fixation on selfies, followers and likes getting out of hand? Are we loosing our sense of self through online presentations, or are we using our ability to create an alter ego as a resource of expression to be who we desire to be. Questioning our relentless need for validation in the digital age, and the fantasies we build around ourselves. Hyper-real imagery that blurs between caricature and character. Delving into a personal account of the fantasy and reality of unleashing a sassy, excessive, materialistic, honest, spoilt, fun and witty second self. Abbie Marie Pinfield Fashion Communication
Identity
73
74
75
Styling - Chuhne Zou. Photography - Shu Zhu. Model - Sun Ze
THE NATURAL REVOLT. A concept derived from a period of protest was formed with forecasting in mind. This initial thread formed the interchangeable rubber band bound trend cards from the ‘idea to outcome’ report the natural revolt. This was driven by the revolt reversal in the clash of policies, which seemingly created a sense of togetherness acting as a shield from previous societal backlash. A key shift in behaviour was noted as a displacement of previous anger to a seemingly more positive outlook. Driven by a need for consumers to become more organically aware, the report covers an array of areas including additional graphic print and menswear design stories. The prints featured within the natural revolt are predominantly illustrated with a digital finish. In keeping with the spirit of protest and the need for consumers to continue to have a voice, the mouthy prints that have been taken from human form are at the forefront of the revolt print prediction. The image dominant trend cards provide visual stimulation, as a bespoke pack for the user is formed to enable creative interpretation of the delivered trend.
Words LAUREN CARTLEDGE
77
Print Design - Lauren Cartledge
(Studio)
78
79
This page: Line Up Illustration - Thomas Wesley Cox. Opposite page: Mood board - Lauren Cartledge.
80
This page: Image - Hannah Allen Opposite page: Mood Board - Lauren Cartledge
81
82
Bespoke Image: Designer - Michelle Aluko.
I grew up involved in everything theatre thanks to my parents and their friends. So naturally I fell into the world of costume after realising that I could pair my love for theatre and my love for fashion together. This passion only grew over my time on the course and allowed me to do a wide range of things within the industry I will be entering into. Alexandra Belfort, Design for Performance
83
Designer - Monika Jauneikaite
84
85
My time at BCU has been incredible, starting off with a straightforward mind-set of hoping to become a Fashion Designer to now leaving with hopes becoming a Garment Technologist. Flora Murunga, Garment Technology
87
This page: Designer - ???. Quote - Joana Ivanova. Opposite page: Designer - Joana Ivanova
Manufacture
This page: Designer - Charlotte Mary Wiles (left) Print design - Camilla Dovey (right). Opposite Page: Designer - Charlotte Mary Wiles. Model - Grace Benneworth. Hair and make-up Ceri Turner.
88
89
Our Graduates
Elisha Bharaj elisha.bharaj@outlook.com elishabharaj.wixsite.com/portfolio Elizabeth Kwao-Ampomah elizabeth.kwao-ampomah@mail. bcu.ac.uk Elizabeth O’Connor elizabeth.oconnor@mail.bcu.ac.uk Emily Hobbs emily.hobbs@hotmail.com G * Designer -
FASHION DESIGN A Afsha Bi afsha.bi@mail.bcu.ac.uk Aisyah Azlan aisyahazlan@live.com Alexandra Ward alexandra.ward@bcu.ac.uk www.alexward.com Anaelle Piovesan fatima.piovesan@mail.bcu.ac.uk B Bernice Tang bernice.tang@mail.bcu.ac.uk Beth Tinney bethan.tinney27@gmail.com C Charlotte Wiles charlottewiles@live.co.uk www.hiive.co.uk/charlottewiles
Georgina Jenkins gjenkins1111@gmail.com www.gjenkins11.wixsite.com/ georgina-jenkins H Hannah Walker hannahtwalker@outlook.com www.hannahtwalker.wixsite.com/ hannahwalker Huimin Ye barbarayeew12@hotmail.com www.barbarayeew12.wixsite.com/ huiminye J Jemma Farley jemma.farley@mail.bcu.ac.uk Jingyi Lin jingyi.lin@mail.bcu.ac.uk K Kya Brooks Harris kyaharris10@yahoo.com
Connie Turner connie.turner@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Kolbra Sveinbjornsson kolbra.s@gmail.com
D
L
Daisy Earle daisy.earle@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Lian- Rae Shipston lian-rae.shipston@mail.bcu.ac.uk
E
Libby Pincott libby.pincott@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Elina Pagett elina.pagett@hotmail.co.uk
90
Georgia Tsinopoulou georgia.tsinopoulou@mail.bcu. ac.uk
Lingling You lingling.you@mail.bcu.ac.uk
M
S
Maisie Bruffell maisie.bruffell@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Sean O’Connor sean030993@gmail.com www.seanoconnor3.wixsite.com/ seano3
Manpreet Sahib manpreetsahib@hotmail.co.uk Maria Adenaike mademaike@hotmail.co.uk Meng Han meng.han@mail.bcu.ac.uk Mollie Bailey molliebailey96@outlook.com Monkia Jauneikaite mjauneikaite@gmail.com www.monikajaun.com N Nailah Iqbal nailah_016@live.co.uk nailah016.wixsite.com/n-iportfolio
Shadi Brown shadiannb@gmail.com Shafia Begum shafiabegum2010@hotmail.com Shaneal Bryant shaneal.bryant@mail.bcu.ac.uk Sophie Batkin sophie.batkin@mail.bcu.ac.uk Stacey Earp staceyearp1996@hotmail.co.uk Stephanie Hutchins stephhutchinsx@icloud.com T
Nia Rees niarees@hotmail.co.uk
Thomas Cox tcox106@gmail.com
Noor Chaudhry noorfch@hotmail.co.uk
X
P Paige Grace paige.grace096@gmail.com Pengyu Wang pengyuwang@mail.com www.603718065.wix.com/wangpy Pravjot Sambhi pravjotsambhi@yahoo.co.uk www.pravjotsambhi.format.com Puja Limbachia puj-lim@hotmail.co.uk R Rebecca More rebecca-sophie@hotmail.com www.artsthread.com/profile/ rebeccamore Rebekah Brennan rebekah.brennan@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Xiaochu Meng mxc_irene@yahoo.com Xianhui Meng sahar9658@gmail.com www.sahar9658.wix.com/ minimalist-fashion-d Y Yinan Wu yinan_wu@icloud.com www.love8067.wixsite.com/ yinanwuportfolio Yiwen Dong yiwen.dong@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.421455662.wixsite.com/ yiwen-dong Yoana Ivanova yoana.ivanova@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.yoanaivanova.weebly.com Yuanjun Fang www.yuanjun-fang.wixsite.com/ yuanjungfang/home
Our Graduates
G Gabriella Zofia Bell g.z.bell@live.co.uk www.gzbell.wixsite.com/ portfolio Gail Finch gail.finch@mail.bcu.ac.uk Germante Jureviciute germante.jureviciute@mail.bcu.ac.uk
* Work - Ksenia Popova
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY A Abigail Blackford abigail.blackford@mail.bcu.ac.uk Alexandria Rose Ferguson lexiferguson@hotmail.com www.alexandriaferg.wixsite.com /portfolio Amie Kessie amie.kessie@mail.bcu.ac.uk D Darrah O’Sullivan darrahosullivan@hotmail.co.uk www.darrahosullivan.wixsite.com /darrahbosullivan E Elena Jones elena.jones@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Georgia Westwood georgia.westwood@hotmail.com www.georgiawest24.wixsite.com/ georgiawestwood H Hue Strachan hue.strachan@mail.bcu.ac.uk J Jordan Mclean jordan.mclean@mail.bcu.ac.uk K Ksenia Popova ksenia.popova@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.kseniacherrpopova.wixsite. com/portfolio Kathryn Manning kathryn.manning@mail.bcu.ac.uk L Laura Nelson laura.n@live.co.uk www.laurasophienelson.wixsite. com/portfolio N
Ella Keskinkilinc ella.keskinkilinc@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Naomi Ralph naomi.ralph@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Emily Spencer emily.spencer@mail.bcu.ac.uk
R
F Flora Murunga flora.murunga@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.florahmurunga.wixsite.com/ portfolio/concept-design
Rebecca Davies beccidavies_@hotmail.co.uk www.beccidavies.wixsite.com/rebecca-portfolio Rebecca Hunt rebecca.hunt2@mail.bcu.ac.uk S
92
Sade Wheatley-Holmes sade-wh@hotmail.co.uk www.sade-wh.wixsite.com/portfolio
Shannon Bowes shannonbowes2710@gmail.com www.shannonbowes.wixsite.com/ portfolio W Wai Leung wai.leung7@mail.bcu.ac.uk Z Zaara Hussain zaara.hussain@mail.bcu.ac.uk
DESIGN FOR PERFORMANCE A Alexandra Belfort alexandra.belfort@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.alexandramadison.wixsite. com/portfolio H Hannah Bridges habridges@googlemail.com www.habridges.wixsite.com/ hannahbridges K Kelly Facey Kelly.facey@outlook.com www.kellyfacey.wixsite.com/kellyfacey L Louise Emma Howlett louemmaart@gmail.com www.lhowlett7.wixsite.com /portfolio M Mariah Yau mariah.yau@mail.bcu.ac.uk O Olivia Johnson omjdesigns@yahoo.com oliviamariajohnson.wixsite.com /o-m-j P Paige Hawkes paige.hawkes@mail.bcu.ac.uk
FASHION COMMUNICATION
F
A
Faith Carter faithcarter@hotmail.co.uk www.faithcarter.co.uk
Abbie Pinfield abbie.pinfield@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.abbielouisepinfield.wixsite. com/fashion-student Aimee Curry aimee.curry@mail.bcu.ac.uk Alisha Robinson alisha.robinson@mail.bcu.ac.uk Amy McCranor amymccranor@hotmail.com www.amymccranor.format.com Ariel Draper ariel.draper@mail.bcu.ac.uk B Bethany Lee bethany.lee@mail.bcu.ac.uk Brontie Bennett www.brontiemariebennett.com C Camilla Dovey camilla.dovey@hotmail.com www.camilladovey.com
H Hannah Allen hannahrebecca.allen@outlook.com www.hannahallen.org Hibag Farah Abdirahman hibag.abdirahmanfarah@mail.bcu. ac.uk K Ketsara Noiwanghin ketsara.noiwanghin@mail.bcu.ac.uk Kiran Bala kiranrb95@gmail.com www.ithesuccessor.com Krishma Chaudhary krishma_stylist@hotmail.com www.krishmachaudhary.com L Laura Taylor lauraemily977@gmail.com www.lauraemily977.wixsite.com /fashionportfolio
Carmen Williams carmen.williams@mail.bcu.ac.uk
Lauren Ann Cartledge laurencartledge39@gmail.com laurencartledge.myportfolio.com
Chi Kei Kou joannalok1346@hotmail.com www.chikou7.wixsite.com/ fashionportfolio
Lik Wu likwu@hotmail.com www.likwuofficial.com
Courtney Campbell courtney.campbell@mail.bcu.ac.uk E Eleanor Scholz eleanor.scholz@mail.bcu.ac.uk Ella May Preece ella.preece@mail.bcu.ac.uk www.ellapreece.wixsite.com /fashionstylist/portfolio Evie Payne evie@sevenmanorclose.co.uk www.eviescarlett.com
Louisa Cornes louisa.cornes@mail.bcu.ac.uk M Maheen Bukhari maheen.bukhari@bcu.ac.uk www.behance.net/MaheenBukhari Maria Hodkinson maria.hodkinson@mail.bcu.ac.uk Melissa Duce melissa.duce@mail.bcu.ac.uk Michelle Aluko michelle.aluko@mail.bcu.ac.uk
P Paige Goddard paige.goddard@mail.bcu.ac.uk S Sophie Fadil sophie.fadil@mail.bcu.ac.uk Suphisara Ingthaisong suphisara.ingthaisong@mail.bcu. ac.uk Y Yangshu Hu yangshu.hu@mail.bcu.ac.uk Yuanjun Fang yuanjun.fang@mail.bcu.ac.uk V Vanessa Gott vanessa.gott@mail.bcu.ac.uk Z Zoe Psaras zoe.psaras@mail.bcu.ac.uk
All graduate profiles can be viewed online at www.bcuportfolio.com
BCU Fashion Magazine
* Image - Brontie Marie Bennett.
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy/permission of image representation. Birmingham City University can not be held responsible for any errors or omissions. www.bcu.ac.uk United Kingdom 2017 Š Birmingham City University All rights reserved