Discover Down East 2023

A gravel path leads to a view near a cobblestone beach in Bog Brook Cove Preserve on the rocky coast of Cutler and Trescott Township.

PHOTO BY AISLINN SARNACKI

EXPLORE CAMPOBELLO ISLAND • HIKE MOOSEHORN WILDLIFE REFUGE • AND MORE!

DISCOVERTHE CUTLER COAST

VISIT MAINE’S BOLD, BEAUTIFUL COASTAL TRAILS • BY EMILY BAER

EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK, you’ll find people making bold claims about Maine’s greatness. Over there, the best lobster roll in New England. Here, the world’s best whoopie pie. We have the ‘prettiest village,’ the ‘best IPA in the country,’ and the ‘best coastal town in America.’

You never know where these declarations come from, but despite my persistent skepticism, I’ve found that a surprising many are true. We are blessed with an endless bucket list of restaurants to try, beverages to sip, and places to visit in Maine. There’s an embarrassment of riches here.

The Cutler Coast Public Preserved Land is a 12,334-acre swath of wild, windswept land that stands quiet watch over the Bay of Fundy. Just east of Machias, this part of Maine is known as the Bold Coast, and it truly is as bold as it is beautiful. The preserve in Cutler hosts over 10 miles of networked trails and encompasses a handful of distinct ecosystems. Depending on which trail you chose, you’ll pass through a mossy forest, a cedar swamp, stunning granite outcroppings, winding meadow paths, and a freshwater marsh.

Despite being a remote destination, this is a popular hike and you may be surprised to find a full parking lot

when you arrive. Since you’ll be traveling over diverse terrain, it is important to wear sturdy footwear and to double check the weather before you head out. There’s a good chance that the temperatures at the trailhead will be different than those along the coastal route, so layers are also recommended. There are composting toilets by the parking lot but no facilities otherwise; food, water, and trash are all carry in-carry out.

The shortest route is Coastal Trail to Ocean Overlook. A moderate 2.8-mile hike, this option is a down-and-back that could likely be completed in a little over two hours. The trail includes a section of board-walk and some uneven terrain, but the payoff is more than worth it. When you emerge from the forest you will be greeted with dramatic cliffs, the sound of waves crashing against the shore below, and a vast expanse of water and sky ahead of you. The views are stunning.

If you decide to push on from here, you’ll head south on the Black Point Brook Loop trail. This turns your adventure into a much longer hike — 6.65 miles roundtrip from the trailhead — and a slightly more difficult one at that. You’ll follow the

cliff-side trail until Black Point Cove, which is an excellent picnic spot and the home of the first tent site you’ll find. Still, plan for a leisurely jaunt along the trail before you arrive at the cove; the cliffs along this section demand admiration and it’s worth maintaining a slower pace to soak it all in. At Black Point you’ll have the option to turn off towards the trailhead or continue on along the Fairy Head Trail. This is the longest trail option — over nine miles in total — but provides the most shoreside hiking and access to three additional tent sites. Again, this is mixed terrain. Soon after the third site the trail turns inland, winding its way back to the parking lot through forest, meadows, and marshland as the booming crash of waves along the coastline slowly give way to the quiet hum of inland habitats.

Over the years, I’ve heard Cutler Coast Public Preserved Land described as one of the best kept secrets in Maine.

Friends and acquaintances have gushed over trail notes and photographs, eager to share their discovery. They’ve said it is ‘astonishingly beautiful,’ ‘a must-do,’ and one of the ‘best hikes in Maine.’ For once, I’m sure. These are bold claims about a Bold Coast, and each one is absolutely true.

Stunning ocean views await along the coast of Cutler Coast Public Reserved Land.

PHOTOS BY AISLINN SARNACKI

DISCOVER CAMPOBELLO ISLAND

A “SYMBOL OF FRIENDSHIP” • BY AISLINN SARNACKI

brothers from New York, who lobbied for the land to become the first jointly owned U.S.-Canadian park.

“I hope that Campobello Park will live eternally as a symbol of our friendship that cannot be shaken or diverted,” President Lyndon Johnson said while signing the park agreement in 1964. “President Roosevelt would want it this way.”

IN THE EASTERN MAINE

town of Lubec, you can show your passport at the border station and cross a long, arcing bridge onto Campobello Island, New Brunswick. There you’ll find historic lighthouses, boat tours, the old summer home of Franklin Delano Roosevelt and a park that’s jointly managed by the United States and Canada. Stay for the day, or make a longer trip of it. There’s plenty on the island to keep you busy. The small community has welcomed visitors for generations.

“We have miles of beaches and just beautiful sites,” said Jade Robbins, marketing and communications associate for Roosevelt Campobello International Park. “What I love most about Campobello is that you can go out in our natural area and you feel that you’re in a whole different world. It’s just so beautiful and calming.”

Covering 2,800 acres of the island, Roosevelt Campobello International Park is home to approximately 7 miles of roads – which are open to automobiles but great for walking and biking as well – and 6 miles of hiking trails. This network of trails and roads lead to dramatic ocean cliffs, cobblestone beaches, whimsical forests and enchanting bogs. And scattered throughout are 14 scenic picnic sites. Picnicking was a favorite pastime of the Roosevelet family. Back in the late 1800s, FDR’s parents were among the many wealthy families who summered on Campobello at grand hotels. They loved the island so much that they purchased land and built a cottage, then gifted the neighboring house to their son – the 32nd president of the U.S. FDR summered on the island with his family for many years. After his death, they sold the property to the Hammer

From late May to mid-October, the park offers guided tours of the Roosevelts’ restored 34-room summer home and holds an event called Eleanor’s Tea, where you sip tea while learning the story of Eleanor Roosevelt. The tour typically lasts between 20 and 30 minutes.

“Almost everything in there are original artifacts, and it’s just like stepping back in time to how they had it in the 1920s,” said Robbins.

One item in the house that people get excited about is FDR’s campaign hat, which sits on the table in the very first room you enter.

“He wore it and left it behind on his last visit [to the summer home] in 1939,” Robbins said. Surrounding the Roosevelts’ summer cottage are flower gardens filled with a variety of annuals and perennials, with dahlias taking the spotlight. These gardens, carefully planned and maintained, can be found outside the park’s other six historic cottages as well.

Another park highlight: Mulholland Point Lighthouse, the only lighthouse shared by Canada and the U.S. The quaint, octagonal, wooden structure was built in 1885. Right beside it is the Marine Life Interpretation Centre, a small building containing an exhibit on the area’s marine life. Run in partnership with the Canadian Whale Institute, the center is manned by an interpreter in the summertime.

Outside the park, the island features a few restaurants and boat tours, plus a second historic lighthouse. Head Harbour Light Station is located on a rocky outcropping on the northern tip of the island that can only be accessed at low tide. Built in 1829, it was New Brunswick’s second lighthouse and is now one of the oldest lighthouses still standing in Canada. The wooden, tapering, octagonal structure rises 51 feet tall and is white with a red cross painted on one side.

“While the island is a great day trip, getting here is half the fun, and once you’re here, you might as well stay a while,” said Robbins. “We do have a lot to offer, the island as a whole.”

Admission to the park and the Roosevelts’ summer house is free. For more information about the park, visit rooseveltcampobello.org. And for information about the island, including lodging options, visit campobello.com.

Mulholland Point Lighthouse, the only lighthouse shared by Canada and the U.S.

PHOTO BY AISLINN SARNACKI

(Below) Franklin D. Roosevelt on Campobello Island on June 16, 1933.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES

Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s summer cottage. BDN FILE PHOTO BY SHARON MACK

DISCOVER LOCAL HISTORY

VISIT A MACHIAS TAVERN WITH TIES TO THE REVOLUTIONARY WAR • BY AISLINN SARNACKI

PERCHED ON A HILL

near the Machias River, sits a house with a gambrel roof and a great brick chimney. Its many windows look out over the town that has grown up around it for generations.

Burnham Tavern has been a fixture of Machias since 1770. Among the oldest buildings in Down East, Maine, it’s significant for many reasons. But one aspect of its history, in particular, captivates visitors from near and far.

Just a few years after it was built, Burnham Tavern became a make-shift hospital for British soldiers injured during the famous Battle for the Margaretta, known as the first naval battle of the American Revolution. And that’s not all. The building likely served as a meeting site for the townsfolk who planned the attack.

Today, the once tavern and inn serves as a museum, run by the Hannah Weston Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. And it’s filled with items that date back to the 18th century, including a wooden chest that came from the Margaretta itself.

“The story is, if you look carefully, you can still see the captain’s blood on the chest,” said Ruth Ahrens, recording secretary and historian for the Hannah Weston Chapter.

British Captain James Moore was shot during the Battle for the Margaretta and, as the story goes, he was laid out on the chest to be treated. Despite efforts to save him, he died from his wounds.

“We like to start everything with ‘the story goes’ or ‘to the best of our knowledge,’” said Ahrens.

She explained that documents such as newspaper articles and voting records have been used to piece together the stories that she and other museum docents share with visitors.

The Battle of the Margaretta is the most popular story of them all, and for good reason.

In the spring of 1975, about 80 families lived in the growing coastal town of Machias. It had been a tough winter. According to some accounts, they only had about two weeks of food left

in storage when the anticipated trading vessel arrived to trade food for lumber. But there was a problem.

Sailing with the trading vessel was a British ship, the Margaretta, which carried swivel guns on its railing. It was there to make sure the deal went smoothly. The American Revolution had just begun, and lumber and firewood were needed at British encampments.

In need of food, the majority of townsfolk voted for the deal to go through, Ahrens said. But a group of impassioned men were loath to help the British in any way. So they plotted to take over the ship.

On Sunday afternoon, when the captain of the Margaretta was attending church in town, they moved to capture him. But he saw them coming, jumped out of a window and fled to his ship while being shot at.

“You could have heard that and probably smelled the musket fire from here,” Ahrens said as she sat in the taproom of the tavern. “That’s why it’s said that ‘the tavern was a witness.’”

About a hundred Patriots from town, armed chiefly with farm tools, pursued the Margaretta on two merchant vessels, the Falmouth Packet and the Unity. The ensuing battle resulted in the death of two Americans and five British, including Captain Moore.

But that’s not the whole story. The docents at Burnham Tavern Museum are filled with knowledge about the details of this event and many more. All you have to do is stop by and take a tour.

When serving as docents, both Johnson and Ahrens sometimes dress in costumes based on the traditional clothing of the late 18th century in rural Maine. They enjoy connecting with people through sharing their excitement for local history.

“I think what makes this place special is that it’s primarily run by docents, as opposed to having labels on things and rooms roped off,” said Ahrens. “The experience can be tailored to the visitor. You can touch things and ask questions.”

A few valuable items are set in glass cases, but otherwise, people are welcome to carefully touch artifacts that are scattered throughout the house. The collection has grown over the years to include a drum from the American Revolution and a 1791 sign from a tavern that operated down the road. Even chairs in the taproom date back to the late 1700s, which you’re welcome to sit in.

Burnham Tavern has been maintained as a museum since 1910 by the Hannah Weston Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, a group of women who can all trace their ancestry back to the American Revolution. It’s one of 21 homes identified as having the most significance in the war, and it’s on the National Register of Historic Places.

“Items were donated by people originally from this area,” said Cathy Johnson, regent of the Hannah Weston Chapter.

“There’s very little in here we’ve purchased.”

Located at 14 Colonial Way in Machias, the museum is open 11 a.m.-3 p.m., July 5 through Sept. 3. It also opens for limited hours during the Margaretta Days Festival, which is June 16-18 and commemorates the town’s part in the American Revolution.

Admission is free, with a suggested donation of $5 per adult. For more information, call 207-733-4577 or email info@burnhamtavern.com.

Museum docent Cathy Johnson poses near an old spinning wheel in the Burnham Tavern Museum.

PHOTOS BY AISLINN SARNACKI

Ruth Ahrens (left) and Cathy Johnson at the Burnham Tavern Museum in Machias.

PHOTOS BY AISLINN SARNACKI

DISCOVER MOOSEHORN

NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

A PLACE TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN NATURE • STORY & PHOTOS BY AISLINN SARNACKI

“[Visitors] can stop by the office and say what they want to do in terms of walking, and we can give them a recommendation,” Mills said.

The Baring Division is the largest of the two divisions, covering 20,532 acres. Trails on the property vary from long, narrow, root-filled trails through uninterrupted forestland to smooth, wheelchair-accessible nature paths that lead to educational displays and wildlife viewing platforms.

agement conducts timber harvesting to create young forestland where certain species thrive. They also maintain small blueberry fields, and they’ve constructed culverts to keep waterways open for fish passage. In contrast, approximately one third of the refuge is managed with a “hands-off” philosophy to allow these areas to develop into old-growth forests.

DIRECTIONS: The Baring Division of the refuge is located in the town of Baring, which is just southwest of Calais in Washington County. From the intersection of Main Street and North Street in downtown Calais, drive west on North Street 3.3 miles (the road is also Route 1 and will become Baring Street), then turn left onto Charlotte Road. Charlotte Road leads through the refuge to reach the Headquarters Road in 2.4 miles. Along the way, you’ll pass a number of trailheads and a wildlife viewing platform. The Edmunds Division is located in the town of Edmunds. Access roads are located off Route 1, just west of Cobscook Bay State Park.

TEEMING WITH BIRDS

and beasts, Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge covers nearly 30,000 acres in Washington County. And it’s an excellent place to explore by trail.

Established in 1937, the refuge is divided into two divisions: the coastal Edmunds Division and the inland Baring Division. Together they feature more than 50 miles of dirt roads and trails that are closed to vehicles but open to hiking, biking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The property is home to many of Maine’s most iconic wild animals.

“We’ve got a good bear population, so people see those pretty frequently,” said Maurry Mills, wildlife biologist for Moosehorn and the other refuges in the Northern Maine National Wildlife Refuge Complex.

Black bears are often spotted foraging along the refuge’s many roads, especially in the springtime, and in the blueberry fields in August. White-tailed deer, snowshoe hares, beavers and river otters also abound.

Among wildlife enthusiasts, the refuge is best known for its wide variety of birds. The diversity of habitats on the land attract 226 species of birds, Mills said, including 26 species

Grand Lake Stream Area Chamber of Commerce

of migrating warblers. The many wetlands and ponds attract a variety of waterfowl and wading birds. Black ducks, wood ducks, ring-necked ducks, Canada geese, common loons, teals, pied-billed grebes, Virginia rails and American bitterns are among the water birds regularly seen. Woodcocks, bald eagles and ospreys are also frequently spotted. If visiting for the first time, you may want to start with the Baring Division because it’s where the visitor information desk and gift store are located. They’re open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday-Friday, year round. Outside of those times, maps and brochures are usually available outside the building.

If looking to spend time closer to the coast, check out the 8,664-acre Edmunds Division, which is about 3 miles south of Dennysville. The trails don’t actually lead to the shore, but they do visit a number of ponds, streams and bogs.

It’s in the Edmunds Division where you have the best chance of spotting northern forest birds such as the boreal chickadee, spruce grouse and Canada jay, Mills said.

Along the trails and roads of Moosehorn are examples of how the USFWS manages certain habitats to promote ecological diversity. For example, in some areas, man-

“The Designated Wilderness Area hasn’t been cut for a long time,” Mills said. “Some of the trees in the Baring Division are probably pushing 200 years old.”

Moosehorn is open to the public from half an hour before sunrise to half an hour after sunset, seven days a week. Admission is free. Dogs are permitted if on leash at all times. Bikes are permitted on certain roads and trails. Fishing is permitted in certain areas, and hunting is permitted in certain areas if you carry a current, signed Moosehorn hunting regulations leaflet and the appropriate state hunting license. For more information, call 207-454-7161 or visit fws.gov/refuge/moosehorn.

DISCOVERLOCAL ART & EVENTS

EASTPORT & LUEBEC ARTWALKS BRINGING FUN EVENTS TO DOWN EAST MAINE • BY KATIE BINGHAM-SMITH

READY TO EXPLORE one of the two easternmost cities in Maine this summer? Mark your calendar for the Eastport & Luebec ArtWalks. For years, Eastport has played host to a traditional artwalk on the first Friday of each month. The mission is to explore life on the creative edge — way Down East.

“The Eastport & Lubec ArtWalks celebrate our region’s rich cultural heritage with all ages, all-inclusive, interactive art activities, gallery receptions, live music, film, dance, storytelling, puppetry, parades, and more,” said ArtWalks organizer Joan Lowden. These events are for all ages in various locations throughout Eastport and a great way to explore eastern Maine with the entire family. Many local arts and community organizers get together to coordinate a series of events that will be fun for everyone — most of which are outdoors and completely free of charge.

“What makes these events unique is that it’s a truly collaborative effort that brings together various community organizations,” Lowden said. “Our ‘Partners in Art’ are Tides Institute & Museum of Art, Eastport Arts Center, Peavey Memorial Library, Sipayik Museum, Lamps (Lubec Area Musicians Philanthropic Society), and Downeast Rainbow Alliance.”

For more information, visit basslady.com/artwalk.

DON’T MISS THESE EASTPORT AND LUBEC ARTWALK SPECIAL EVENTS

JUNE 23: Contra dance under the stars in Eastport. Bring the entire family or come solo. No partner nor experience is needed, and all are welcome.

JUNE 24-25: Portland’s Curbside Queens drag show in Eastport and Lubec for Pride Weekend.

JUNE 22-25: Check out “Velas” — an installation of full-size painted sails located around downtown Eastport by Eastport/Italian artist Vittoria Chierici.

AUGUST 3-6: Enjoy the Mermaid Festival! Luebec Artist Chuck Kniffen will present beach trash and sea-junk sculptures installed around downtown Eastport. And don’t miss a puppet-making workshop and an interactive scavenger hunt. On August 5, the second annual Mermaid Parade takes place, with local artists available to help you create your unique mermaid look. Also, the “Tales of Quaddy Bay” puppet theater and Stage East Canned Sardine Story Slam will return.

Mer-person Geo Neptune in 2022.

PHOTO BY GEORGIE KENDALL

Ellen Krajewski plays the cello at Full Fathom Five Gallery in 2022.

PHOTO BY GREG GORDON

A child at the KinderArts Activity in 2022.

PHOTO BY ALISON BRENNAN

NEW OWNERSHIP, SAME ICONIC MAINE RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT TO STAY “IN THE FAMILY” • COURTESY OF GOVERNOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAKERY

A SEAMLESS TRANSITION is

the primary concern of both the buyer and seller of Governor’s Restaurant and Bakery, a chain of five eateries throughout Maine.

“I understand that there is a great deal of stress and anxiety involved in taking this step to ownership,” said longtime employee Jason Clay, who is buying the chain from Randy Wadleigh. “Many people depend on you to make the right decisions and lead with integrity.”

Governor’s Restaurant and Bakery announced in April that its company owned chain of five retail shops throughout Maine will transition to new ownership at the end of May upon the retirement of owner Randy Wadleigh. Wadleigh, has led the company that his parents founded for 35 years. The sixth location in Presque Isle is an independently owned franchise.

Wadleigh acknowledges that he explored

selling to a merger and acquisition company but thought better of it.

“Governor’s brand is iconic in the State of Maine. Ultimately, it was more important to me to keep the culture and Jason is ready. He’s smart, respected, educated, tech savvy, a hard worker, great listener and most importantly, rooted in the community,” Wadleigh states. “He’s been part of the Governor’s family for 17 years. Jason gives our brand the best shot to be successful for decades to come.”

“It is a great honor for me to shepherd a brand that has such a great Maine tradition and history. The fact that Randy and Leith and Donna [Wadleigh’s parents] trust me to lead their business into the future weighs very heavily on me. What an unbelievable opportunity,” says Clay.

But Governor’s fans should not fear, he says. “Change is inevitable. But changing

just for the sake of change doesn’t make sense. While I’m sure that some things will be different when the transition happens, we have a great concept with great people. We’ll continue to follow this path and build on what Governor’s has been all about for the past 63 years.”

Relinquishing the reins of this iconic Maine business is not easy for Wadleigh, but he says it’s time. “As a child, I grew up in a booth eating cheeseburgers. Since the age of 10 I’ve worked summers until age 20 and full-time ever since. A 40-plus year run is pretty good, I’d say.”

What’s next for Wadleigh? “For me, less worrying and stress. This gray hair didn’t just appear by itself! But I still have a vested interest for many, many years and will provide consulting services as long as it

takes, especially over the next year or so.”

Governor’s Restaurant and Bakery has been a Maine tradition for more than 60 years, serving families good wholesome food and desserts throughout Maine. Learn more at governorsrestaurant.com.