Winter Outdoors 2016-2017

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Outdoors

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Winter 2016/2017

THE HIDDEN BACKCOUNTRY EXPLORING MAINE BY TRACK & TREAD

MAKING TRACKS

MEET A MASTER SNOWSHOE MAKER

HUNTING HARES

A WINTER RABBIT HUNTING ADVENTURE


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Winter 2016/2017

I only started skiing about 10 years ago. I’m always a little ashamed to admit this to people I meet on the slopes. In my mind, everyone else started in utero, has skied competitively since age 3, and is now probably undiscovered Olympic Gold material. None of this has deterred me from enjoying the sport. In the beginning, I’d hit the slopes hard—every night after work, I’d go night skiing at Hermon Mountain. On the weekends, I’d hit one of the bigger slopes out west. Now, after years of concerted starts and lazy stops, I’d call myself a solid intermediate skier. I’m able to tackle

IN THIS ISSUE

some black diamonds, but I’ll probably never master the

05 THE HIDDEN BACKCOUNTRY

our house on beat-up old snowmobiles. As I got a little

moguls (or Gondy Line at Sugarloaf, shudder). My interest in skiing was borne of a general love of the outdoors, but I think that love started at an early age. My father and I would weave around the trails behind older, I began venturing out on my own. It provided an

Exploring Maine by track and tread

10 ON THE HUNT FOR WINTER HARES Going on a rabbit hunting adventure

14 MAKING TRACKS

Master snowshoe maker shares his love for the art

exhilarating sense of freedom and exploration. I haven’t been on a snowmobile since high school, but the feeling’s PHOTO: WOJCIECH_GAJDA/THINKSTOCK

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stuck with me. In this issue of Winter Outdoors, we’re proud to feature a piece on backcountry exploration-by-motor in the colder months. You’ll also discover a Maine man keeping snowshoe traditions alive, a tale of a “hare-raising” hunt, and more. Happy winter—maybe I’ll see you on the slopes.

MATT CHABE EDITOR, BDN OUTDOORS

Me, looking like a ski ninja (Ed. note: I am not a ski ninja.)

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The Hidden

Backcountry

THIS PUBLICATION WAS PRODUCED BY Bangor Daily News

SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS Matt Chabe

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Photo by treasurephoto/thinkstock

Exploring Maine by track and tread.

A snowmobile trail in Aroostook County. Courtesy of GARY MARQUIS

A

BY MATT CHABE

lot gets written about outdoor opportunities here.

weren’t out there. When the foliage changes and falls away, it’s a

The hunting. The fishing. The camping, hiking and

whole new experience. Some of the mountains, like Chick Hill [in

boating.

Clifton]... one side is normally pretty well forested. When you’re

Come winter, though, the fervor slows a little. The

rush of activity wanes, lakes and streams get more lonely, and mountain peaks become barren, visited by nary but the most sturdy souls. It’s no wonder, really—when winter starts swinging here in

coming back down, without all those leaves there, there’s incredible views you don’t normally get.” Gary Marquis, the superintendent at Caribou Parks and Recreation, concurs. He’s also a member of the Caribou Snowmobile Club’s board of directors, as well as its trail master.

Maine, it can get cold. COLD cold. Mainers are notoriously hardy

“You’re going through wooded trails [on a snowmobile], you’re

when it comes to that sort of thing, but there’s also the fact that it’s

going through swampy areas you can’t get through in the summer-

just downright difficult to get around.

time,” he said. “There are areas throughout our system, throughout

What many people don’t realize, however, is that when the snow falls, and the last leaves of the season drift away, Maine’s backcountry turns into a whole new land to explore—and to see some of it, you’re going to need machines.

the valley, where the views are spectacular. You just don’t see them in a car, because there’s no trail to that lookout spot.” He describes one particular spot on Long Lake, near Madawaska, that’s stunning and remote—and he says you can’t see it anywhere except astride a snowmobile. In fact, there’s plenty of terrain to explore once the temperatures drop and the lakes freeze over. Take, for

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example, Aroostook County’s plentiful potato fields. In the warmer months they’re a source of economic pride. In the winter, however, “The biggest thing, for me, is the scenery,” said Mike Reynolds, president of Penobscot Valley 4 Wheel Drive (PV4WD), a not-for-

they afford a winter opportunity to traverse terrain you might never have thought possible.

profit group of Jeep owners located all over the State of Maine. “You

“You get a whole different view of [something] that you normally

can see wildlife and scenery that you wouldn’t normally see if you

just drive alongside,” said Marquis. “All of a sudden you’re on the


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snowmobile trails, you’re traveling across

snowmobile experience they can get. We main-

Fraser, a manager at motorsports dealer

case of rollovers,” he said. “It depends on

someone’s crop ground and it’s something

tain a very aggressive grooming schedule.

Friend & Friend in Orono. “Electric start, re-

how far you want to go. If you want the abil-

you don’t get to do when the potatoes are in

We’re out almost every single night. It’s easier

verse, hand warmers, thumb warmers, heated

ity to do more difficult trails, you can add lift

the ground or the corn or wheat is there.

to maintain a smooth trail than a rough trail

seats. It’s not what it used to be.”

kits, larger tires, and skid kits to protect the

Snowmobiling allows to you to see so many

with holes in it.”

different things.”

All these snowmobile and four-wheeldrive trails, however, are found predomi-

The options available for a newcomer

A stock snowmobile will likely satisfy most

bottom of the vehicle. You can go pretty ex-

looking to get into motorized trail explora-

riders, but Fraser said the sky’s the limit in

treme with heavy-duty steering, bigger

tion can be staggering.

terms of upgrades to suit your style. Studding

brakes. You can get out of hand with mods if

nantly on private land. These opportunities for backcountry exploration wouldn’t be possible without the assistance and support of In Caribou, the city maintains the snow-

private landowners.

mobile trails with assistance from the Cari-

“We get permission to use the trails we use,”

bou Snowmobile Club. The trails cover

said Edwards. “Sometimes it’s tricky—we’re

about 100 one-way miles (with 86 road cross-

crossing a lot of different properties. Not every

ings) and snake into towns such as Wood-

landowner gives permission. But we have a

land, New Sweden and Stockholm. The sys-

good reputation, we offer to do cleanups and

tem also incorporates two portions of the

other work and that usually helps.”

you want to.”

As with most hobbies, exploring Maine’s backcountry in the winter from the driver’s seat of a Jeep or astride a snowmobile starts with one thing—the desire to do it. An adventurous spirit doesn’t hurt.

As with most hobbies, exploring Maine’s backcountry in the winter from the driver’s

Jeep owners with Penobscot Valley 4 Wheel Drive line up for a drive. Courtesy of MIKE REYNOLDS

seat of a Jeep or astride a snowmobile starts with one thing—the desire to do it. An adventurous spirit doesn’t hurt.

International Trail System (ITS), ITS 83 and

“The number one reason that we have the

“It’s an easy hobby to get into,” said Ed-

ITS 90, which the city and the Snowmobile

trail systems that we do is because of the

“You need to [start by] figuring out what

the track will improve its traction, for instance,

wards. “It starts with wanting to get out

“We all know that in northern Maine, winters

Club maintain. “It’s a lot of work,” said

landowners,” said Marquis, noting that he

kind of riding you want to do,” said Marquis.

while installing carbide runners will improve

there, wanting to enjoy the outdoors. Not ev-

last long,” said Marquis. “We have to do some-

Marquis, taking care to repeat himself a

manages about 145 landowner relationships

Today, snowmobiles have become more

handling while sacrificing steerability.

eryone is willing or able to get out there and

thing. We’re so fortunate in Aroostook County

second time, more emphatically.

in the Caribou area. “If it wasn’t for the

specialized, with more varieties to choose

From his perspective as a four-wheel-drive

hike and explore. Having a vehicle like a Jeep

that we can be on a trail in minutes. The ability

“Thousands of people use our trails each

landowners, we wouldn’t have a system.

from. Some are designed for hard-pack trails

enthusiast, Edwards concurs: a stock Jeep will

gives you an opportunity to get out and see

to just leave and be on a groomed trail, and in

year,” he said, noting that most of the mainte-

Nobody would have a system. You have to

and handle like sports cars, while others have

cut it on most of Maine’s backcountry trails,

some of things you wouldn't normally be able

30-45 minutes you’re 50 miles from your house

nance labor is volunteer-based. “Our mission

have permission to recreate on their land.

longer tracks that are better on soft trails.

but if you want to go big, you can go really big.

to see. It's a break—you can get away for a

sitting at a restaurant or overlooking a view of a

is to ensure all snowmobilers, whether they

It’s hugely important. We have a great rela-

“What people have come to expect are what

“[Our members] have stock Jeeps right

nice night in the woods, or go hit the logging

lake or a field, and you’re in a whole different

come from in-town or out of state, have the best

tionship with our landowners.”

used to be ‘big options’ years ago,” said Lou

up to highly modified rigs with full cages in

roads and do some exploring.”

part of the county... that’s what’s awesome.”

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Dig Into

The County

There’s so much to see and do in Aroostook.

I

SPECIAL TO OUTDOORS FROM CENTRAL AROOSTOOK CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

County events highlights JANUARY Jan. 13-14: County Bluegrass Winter Bluegrass Festival Presque Isle One of the best camping festivals in the area, featuring world renowned Bluegrass bands.

Jan. 22: Caribou Snowmobile Club’s Snowmobile Drag Race Caribou A fun and exciting family event to benefit the groomer replacement fund.

n the heart of Maine sits an area rich with outdoor adventure, fun and possibility. It’s a place where you can paddle one minute, visit a brewfest the next, and plan a bicycle tour the third. It’s welcoming, enriching and ripe with things to see and do. You’ve probably heard of it: some call it the “Crown of Maine.” Most people know

it as Aroostook County, and there’s more here than meets the eye. “When people visit us, they come away with the absolute beauty of the area,” said Theresa Fowler, Executive Director of the Central Aroostook Chamber of Commerce. “The rolling hills, the rivers, the lakes, the friendliness of the people… you can find it here.”

FEBRUARY Feb. 25-26: Caribou Winter Carnival Caribou Tons of activities including sled and canoe downhill races, snow sculpture contest, ice skating, and more.

In addition to The County’s well-regarded snowmobiling and sporting attractions, visitors and residents alike can find a multitude of activities to suit their interests in all seasons. There’s the Meduxnekeag River Canoe Race in Houlton for example, an annual event locals and visitors alike plan for all year; the Can-Am Crown International Sled Dog Races; and the aforementioned BlackFly Brewfest, which welcomes over 30 Maine craft brewers to display their brews. There’s also a unique, welcoming way to people that’s particular to The County, accord-

TBD: Maine-Quebec Winter Carnival Caravan Portage Join the caravan as it travels through the north Maine woods to Quebec City for the world famous Quebec Winter Carnival.

ing to Jane Reed Torres, Executive Director of the Greater Houlton Chamber of Commerce. “I live here and I feel it and breathe it every day,” she said. “It’s neighbor taking care of neighbor. For a long time, we thought that young people were [leaving for good]—but they’re coming back. There are 30-somethings that are moving back here because they want to raise their children the way they were raised. They want to get outdoors. They want their kids to experience that closeness you can only get from a great community, and

TBD: Aroostook State Park’s Family Fun Day Presque Isle Cross country skiing, sliding, snowshoeing, ice skating, bonfire and more.

we have a great community here.” Torres goes on to describe a recent interaction she had with a couple “from away.” “A couple from Massachusetts told me, ‘We were down in Riverfront Park, we crossed the walking bridge, and we come into town and there’s a band set up in the middle of the square. Everyone’s happy, and people were so welcoming. They made us feel like we really wanted to come back, and we will.’”

MARCH TBD: North American & United States Biathlon Championships Fort Kent

March 4-7: Can-Am International Sled Dog Races Fort Kent March 12: Houlton International Snow Drags Houlton These snow drags on the Houlton International Airport runway draw an enthusiastic crowd.

APRIL April 8-9: The Southern Aroostook Trade Show Millar Civic Center, Houlton Over 35 exhibitors display many of the season’s newest items.

April 29: Meduxnekeag River Canoe Race Houlton A 35-year tradition featuring an approximately 9.5-mile race down the river.

MAY May 20: The Blackfly Brewfest Houlton A weekend-long event featuring over 30 Maine craft brewers and Canada/ America collaborations.

JUNE Bi-monthly: Thursdays on Sweden Caribou Music, food, vendors and more at this family-friendly event held every other week on Sweden St. Begins June 17.

There is a wealth of opportunities for you to explore The County in 2017, outdoors and beyond. Here are but a few highlights. Check them out for yourselves—maybe we’ll see you there.

All events courtesy respective chambers of commerce. Dates are subject to change— for more information and events, visit the following chambers’ websites. CARIBOU AREA cariboumaine.net

GREATER HOULTON greaterhoulton.com

CENTRAL AROOSTOOK centralaroostookchamberofcommerce.com

GREATER MADAWASKA greatermadawaskachamber.com

FORT FAIRFIELD fortcc.org

GREATER VAN BUREN vanburenmaine.com

GREATER EAST GRAND LAKE eastgrandlake.net

LIMESTONE limestonemaine.org

GREATER FORT KENT fortkentchamber.com

KATAHDIN AREA katahdinmaine.com

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On the Hunt

for Winter Hares

Going on a rabbit hunting adventure.

T

he forest on the outskirts of the state's third-largest city was dead

tential target at the same time. Only once did

ishes into the woods on the other side.

anyone get a shot off at our speedy target.

A minute and a half later, Chum and Scrap

BY JOHN HOLYOKE, BDN STAFF

The hounds found a snowshoe hare. The hunt was on.

That makes Scrap older, slower and fatter. But that’s OK with his owner. When it comes

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Then the hunters would scramble to a new spot, set up and wait.

I missed.

to the key trait his beagles must have, Scrap

show up, still baying, still working, still eager

Of course, filling a tag or shooting game is

stands alone.

After three hours in the woods, Fahey de-

to find the source of the scent they’ve been

only part of the equation. Watching Chum and

“Scrap, I would give credit for having the

tracking. The short-legged dogs struggle

Scrap work was the highlight of the trip. And

better nose of the two,” Fahey said. “Chum can

“I like [hare hunting] because every hunt has

through deep snow, their snouts disappearing

Fahey said the beagles weren’t offended be-

do it. He’s done it in the cold weather. But on a

the potential to be its own little adventure,” he

into the footprints the hurried hare left behind.

cause nobody cashed in after their hard work.

real cold day, when [there’s] extra breeze or

said. “No two hunts tend to be the same.”

The dogs don’t notice us and continue their

“They're very forgiving that way,” Fahey

crusty conditions, there are times when Scrap

Fahey said those hunts, which were less fre-

pursuit. They’ve got work to do. And they’ll be

said. “They keep their nose down and go right

will open and bark on scent that Chum doesn’t

quent last winter because of deep, powdery

back. You can count on that.

back to work.”

even process yet.”

snow that make it difficult for the short-legged

clared the hunt a success, even though nobody left with the makings of a stew.

quiet as large, feathery, wet snow-

Jim Fahey, an off-duty Maine game war-

“Contrary to what people may think who

And misses are part of the game, Fahey told

The two work as a pair, and team up to find

flakes fell lazily, enveloping us in

den, agreed to take me and a colleague on a

hear that the dogs brought the rabbits back,

us. At times, he has made difficult shots on

the hares. Sometimes, Chum’s barking sig-

“I would always say, no matter what hap-

that comforting silence you only seem to find

snowshoe hare hunt and left us on a trail be-

they don’t,” Fahey explained earlier. “The dogs

running hare look easy. Just as often, he said,

naled the beginning of another pursuit. Other

pens with the hunt, you can almost be guaran-

in special, wooded spaces.

fore leading his beagles into a spot he knew

don’t do that. They are not collies or herders.

he has made easy shots look impossible.

times, Scrap’s raspy, quieter voice would an-

teed of fresh air and exercise,” he said. “And

might harbor hares.

They can only track and trail the rabbit by

nounce the discovery of fresh scent.

that’s pretty good on a winter day in Maine.”

Then, distantly, the sound we had been wait-

scent – occasionally by sight, but seldom.”

That’s just the way it goes, when you spend

ing to hear echoed through the trees: two voic-

Dense thickets dominated one side of the clear-

es, instantly identifiable,

ing. “That’s what I'd call a hiding cover,” Fahey

Instead, hare hunters rely on the predictabili-

letting us know our wait

told us. On the other side, up a gradual hill, was a

ty of the hare itself. The beagles invaded its home

“In the mid-1980s, when I was in high school,

soon would be over.

more recently cut stand of trees filled with rasp-

territory. After fleeing, the hare is likely to re-

John Stubbs was the baseball coach [at Bangor

berry and blackberry stalks: hare chow.

turn to the cover it was in before. That makes

High]. John’s family, he and his father, had al-

hunting more predictable, if no less challenging.

ways had hunting dogs,” Fahey said, explain-

A beagle named Chum,

Chum and Scrap walk a snowmobile trail after snowshoe hare hunting with off duty game warden Jim Fahey. BDN FILE PHOTO

and in a hurry, vaults across the trail and van-

30 years pursuing hares behind loyal dogs – even if those first dogs weren’t even yours.

assertive and loud, began

“When you have a food source next to a hid-

to bay. A moment later,

ing cover, that makes a pretty good combina-

his

partner,

tion,” Fahey said.

home range, and as the dogs follow, it reveals

“By the time I was a senior or a freshman in

Scrap, joined in with a

And he’s right.

where the rabbit’s been. And you can kind of

college, he’d let me come borrow the dog, just

softer, more raspy howl

Before long, a potential target appears, albe-

predict where it’s going, based on the track it’s

like a library book,” he said.

hunting

but just as eager to run.

it briefly. A blur of high-speed hare, off-white

“The hare tends to do the circling in its

ing how he came to love the activity.

“I would always say, no matter what happens with the hunt, you can almost be guaranteed of fresh air and exercise. And that’s pretty good on a winter day in Maine.” – Jim Fahey taken [already],” Fahey said. “It’s all about set-

In the late 1990s, Fahey bought a beagle of

ting up an ambush while the dogs track and

his own. That dog, an accomplished hunter

trail. They’re barking, which of course reveals

named Guy, was his constant companion in the

where the chase starts, and you can predict

woods until its death last year.

what’s going to happen next.”

“He was a good cold-weather dog,” Fahey

Here’s what happens next: Fahey listens to

said. “He wasn’t the prettiest beagle. He

the dogs – a barking beagle is on a track, while

wouldn’t have won the Westminster Dog Show

a silent one is seeking scent – and determines

or anything like that – he had kind of crooked

which way the hare is running.

legs and kind of a pointy nose. But hey, what

Then he scrambles, sprinting silently in monstrous Iverson snowshoes that keep him

the heck? He could run a rabbit, and he could do it in cold weather.”

above 3 feet of powder to a likely spot, where he

Now, the heavy sniffing is done by Chum

tromps down the snow, tells shooters where

and Scrap, low-riding hare hounds that have

they might see the hare and begins peering into

proven up to the task.

the underbrush. Several times, the hare darted across the trail. Fewer times, all three of us saw our po-

“Chum is a little younger, a little faster and right now, weight-wise, he’s a little lighter,” Fahey said.

beagles, are all special.


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Put On Your

Winter 2016/2017

Brave Face

R

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Katahdin summons this winter.

SPECIAL TO OUTDOORS FROM ACADIA MOUNTAIN GUIDES CLIMBING SCHOOL

each the summit of Maine—in

summit climbs throughout the winter. Trips

A typical weekend begins at Acadia Moun-

to icy, semi-technical snow, your guide will

winter! At 5,268 feet, Mount Ka-

are also available by private arrangement and

tain Guides’ Orono gear shop, where a guide

ensure you’re outfitted with the appropriate

tahdin is the state’s highest peak.

are led by experienced winter mountaineer-

ensures you’re equipped with the appropriate

equipment. After climbing to the summit and

The remote and wild beauty of

ing guides. Hiring a guide can make a winter

personal and group gear prior to heading

descending back to camp, the party makes the

the mountain provide some of the most chal-

trip significantly more relaxing and reward-

north. Upon arrival at the mountain, you’ll

final push back to the trailhead by early eve-

lenging backcountry skiing and climbing ter-

ing—and will increase your odds of reaching

begin the approach with a half-day ski or

ning to complete a challenging day.

rain in New England. Reaching the summit at

the summit.

snowshoe to a winter camp at the base. Your

JON TIERNEY, AMGCS’s owner and a

any time of year is an accomplishment, but in

Climbing Katahdin in winter is a physical-

guide prepares a meal to fuel the next day’s

LifeFlight paramedic, has taught wilderness

the winter it holds a little more magic—and a

ly demanding trip, but requires no previous

summit attempt. After dinner, the guide

medicine for over three decades. He guides in-

lot less people. The remote location, arctic

winter climbing or camping experience when

teaches winter travel, camping, and climbing

ternational climbing and skiing trips, pro-

environment, and rugged terrain make climb-

accompanied by a professionally-trained

skills and helps you settle into camp in antici-

vides mentorship for guides across the nation,

ing Katahdin one of the most rewarding win-

guide. AMGCS provides all technical equip-

pation of an early morning start.

and serves as the educational director for the

ter alpine ascents around.

ment on their climbs including mountaineer-

The following morning, your guide leads

Professional Climbing Instructors Associa-

Fortunately for brave souls everywhere,

ing boots, snowshoes, crampons, ice axe, and

the way toward the summit, teaching moun-

tion. AMGCS has been continually accredited

the Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School

-20 degree sleeping bag. The weekend trip also

taineering skills as needed. Route conditions

and peer reviewed by the American Mountain

(AMGCS) offers open enrollment weekend

includes two hot backcountry meals.

can vary greatly. From icy rock, to deep snow,

Guides Association since 1993.


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Making

tracks

Master snowshoe maker shares his love for the art.

M

BY JESSICA POTILA WITH ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY MATT CHABE aster traditional snowshoe maker Brian J. Theriault of Fort Kent recently participated in the 2016 Maine International Conference on the Arts in Lewiston-Auburn. Theriault, the owner of Theriault’s Snowshoes and the recipient of three Traditional Arts Apprenticeship Grants from the Maine Art Commission, is the co-author

of the book “Leaving Tracks —A Maine Tradition” along with his father, Edmond Theriault. The elder Theriault, who will turn 94 in March, is a Fort Kent native now living in Portland. Both Theriaults attended the conference October 6 and 7. “We mingled a lot, talked with a lot of different people,” said Theriault, who noted the event was well-attended. “We were able to talk with other artisans to see what they were doing. We learned a lot—they gave us some tools to further our traditions and craft. They gave us ideas and opened doors. We traded emails to stay in touch. It was really quite amazing. Quite an experience.” Theriault said his father is still an active snowshoe maker, and Theriault said he plans to visit his father again soon so the two can spend time together doing their favorite activity.

(Above) Brian and Edmond Theriault of Fort Kent, son and father, and co-authors of “Leaving Tracks,” a guide to wooden, rawhide snowshoe making. (Right) Theriault cuts ash trees for use in his craft. (Below) Theriault with a pair of his bear paw shoes at the Presque Isle library, where he was discussing his book, “Leaving Tracks.” BDN FILE PHOTOS

“There’s been a surge in interest in using snowshoes and even making snowshoes. For some reason people are liking to make their own. When I go to sportsmen shows they’re all for it.”

– Brian J. Theriault

“I’ll get him to probably do some weaving, end weaving and center weaving with rawhide,” Theriault said. He explained that the woven section of the snowshoe is one of the most important parts. “That’s what keeps you afloat.” Theriault works out of the garage at his Fort Kent home, where traditional snowshoe making is a year-round endeavor. “I’ve been cutting rawhide all summer long. I don’t know how many thousands and thousands of feet I have. I think I cut myself close to 100 pairs of snowshoes. It takes like 300 feet per (pair of) snowshoes,” he said. Since fall began he has been designing frames for the snowshoes from brown ash, which he harvests from his own land or purchases from local farmers. Theriault is planning to also attend the 2017 World Snowshoe Race in Saranac Lake, New York in February of 2017. While there, he will share a new kit he is preparing, which includes all the necessary parts for people to make their own snowshoes, including frames, cut rawhide, and a copy of “Making Tracks” as well as an instructional DVD. “There’s been a surge in interest in using snowshoes and even making snowshoes. For some reason people are liking to make their own,” he said. “When I go to sportsmen shows they’re all for it. They can’t wait until it comes out.” Theriault is also adding a new product to his traditional snowshoe making business, and said he is looking forward to debuting it at Saranac Lake. “I’m working on racing snowshoes. I have a design (prepared). Hopefully I’ll have some made for that big race,” he said.

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