A Step By Step Guide To Getting Started With Jewellery Making - Bead House

A STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO GETTING STARTED WITH JEWELLERY MAKING

GLOSSARY

ROUNDS

HEADPIN

EYEPIN

JUMP RING

CORD END FASTENER

BAIL

EAR WIRE

CRIMP COVER

END CRIMP & RING

CRIMP TUBE

CRIMP BEAD

TOGGLE BAR

EXTENDER CHAIN

TRIGGER CATCH

SPLIT RING

CHARM CARRIER

SCROLL

BELL CAP

GLOSSARY

CHAIN NOSE PLIERS

ROUND NOSE PLIERS

FLUSH CUTTERS

CRIMPING PLIERS

FLAT NOSE PLIERS

MEMORY WIRE CUTTERS

TWEEZERS

BEAD GAUGE

BEAD SCOOP

SNIPPERS

SPLIT RING PLIERS

JUMP RING TOOL

CALOTTE / NECKLACE END

EARSTUD & RING

BOLT RING

TRI-TRAY

PEARL KNOTTER

BEADING AWL

WITH OVER 40 YEAR’S EXPERIENCE OF SUPPLYING JEWELLERY DESIGNERS

ABOUT BEADHOUSE Welcome to Bead House, our company has over 40 years experience in the jewellery design trade. We hope this guide will provide you with a good reference to the main jewellery making techniques, to help you on your

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path to becoming a jewellery designer.

For more inspiration and ideas, we have a whole section full

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of design & trend led inspiration on our website, further How To guides, video tutorials, pre-designed Jewellery Making Kits and over 9,000 beading product lines.

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CONTENTS Page 1 - HOW TO CREATE A WIRE LOOP Page 2 - HOW TO CREATE A WRAPPED LOOP Page 3 -CREATING EARRINGS Page 4 - CREATING A PENDANT Page 5 - OPENING & CLOSING JUMP RINGS Page 5 - JUMP RING SIZING CHART Page 6 - DIFFERENT CRIMPING METHODS Page 7-8 - MAKING BRACELETS & NECKL ACES WITH BEADING WIRE Page 8 - GUIDE TO BEADING WIRE GAUGES AND SIZES Page 9 - NECKL ACE & BRACELET LENGTH GUIDE Page 10 - MAKING A STRETCH BRACELET Page 11 - HOW TO TIE FRIENDSHIP / SLIDING KNOTS Page 12 - MAKING ROUND CORD NECKL ACES Page 13-14 - MAKING FL AT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKL ACES

You will need:

Page 1

HOW TO CREATE A WIRE LOOP

1 x Head Pin

1 x Bead of your choice

1

Round Nose Pliers

Flush Cutters

2

Thread your bead onto a head pin.and bend the head pin to a 90째 angle.

3

Trim the wire to a length of 1cm with flush cutters.

4 TIP

You can reopen/ close the loop if you need to at anytime.

Grip the end of the wire and use the round nose pliers to roll/bend the wire towards the bead to form a loop.

Your loop should look like this. You can now attach your bead to earrings, necklaces and more.

Page 2

You will need:

HOW TO CREATE A WRAPPED LOOP

1 x Head Pin

1 x Bead of your choice

Chain Nose pliers

1

Round Nose Pliers

Flush Cutters

2

Thread your bead onto a head pin.and bend the head pin to a 90째 angle.

3

Using a pair of pliers or by hand take the end of the wire and wrap around the round nose pliers and cross underneath to create a loop.

4

TIP

Reposition the pliers to take hold of the loop. Using another set of pliers start to wrap the wire around the stem, forming a nice tight coil.

Use your pliers to neaten the end of the wire and coil if necessary When the coil reaches the top of the bead, snip off the excess wire with flush cutters.

You will need:

Page 3

CREATING EARRINGS

2x Pairs of Pliers

2x Jump Rings

1

2x Earwires

2 x Wire Wrapped Beads/Droppers

2 TIP

If using natural beads, remember to select a matching pair.

See previous page to create wire wrapped loops on your beads If you are using droppers/charms, these will already have a loop attached.

3

Open a jump ring (see page 5) attach to the loop at the top of the bead or on to your dropper/charm.

4

TIP

There are a variety of different earwires and studs you can use.

Next attach the earwire and close the jump ring.

Repeat this process on the second earring.

Your finished earrings should look like this.

You will need:

CREATING A PENDANT

2x Pairs of Pliers

1x Bail

1

1x Headpin

Page 4

1x Bead of your choice

2

Using a pair of pliers or by hand take the end of the wire and wrap around the round nose pliers and cross underneath to create a loop.

Thread your bead onto a head pin and bend the head pin to a 90째 angle.

3

4

Thread the loop at the base of the bail onto the head pin so that the bail loop sits inside the head pin loop.

Grip the loop of the headpin with some pliers. Using another set of pliers start to wrap the wire around the stem, forming a nice tight coil. Snip off the excess wire with flush cutters.

OPENING & CLOSING JUMP RINGS

2x Pairs of Pliers

1x Jump Ring

You will need:

You will need:

Page 5

1x Pairs of Pliers

1x Jump Ring

Jump Ring Tool

TIP

Be sure not to pull sideways apart as this will distort the ring.

JUMP RING TOOL METHOD

PLIER METHOD

Place the jump ring tool on your finger and hold secure. With a pair of pliers, place the jump ring into a groove on the tool and twist in a north/south direction to open and close.

Grip the jump ring with two pairs of pliers and twist in a north/south direction.

JUMP RING SIZING CHART

4mm

6mm

8mm

10mm

Jump rings are also available soldered/closed which can be used where a solid ring is required in your jewellery designs.

Page 6

DIFFERENT CRIMPING METHODS

Flat/Chain Nose Pliers

Crimp Bead

CRIMPING PLIER METHOD

You will need:

You will need:

SIMPLE CRIMPING METHOD

You can use a crimp bead or crimp tube for this method.

Use a crimp tube for this method. We recommend a 2mm x 2mm tube.

Beading Wire

Thread your beading wire through your crimp, base of clasp and back through the crimp. Ensure beading wires stay parallel and are not crossed.

Crimping Pliers Inner Jaw

Outer Jaw

Beading Wire

Thread your beading wire through your crimp, base of clasp and back through the crimp. Ensure beading wires stay parallel and are not crossed.

Place the crimp part into the inner jaw and compress to create a ‘U’ shape.

Compress with chain/flat nose pliers.

Ensure beading wire is securely held by crimp.

Crimp Tube

TIP

Rotate and crimp in the outer jaw to make a nice compact tube.

Moving to the outer jaw turn the crimp 90° and compress to make a tube

You will need:

Page 7

1

MAKING BRACELETS & NECKL ACES WITH BEADING WIRE

Beads of.s your choice

Beading Wire

2x Crimp Tubes

2x Crimp Covers

SEE PAGE 9 FOR NECKLACE LENGTHS

1x Trigger Catch

Chain Nose Pliers

Crimping Pliers

Flush Cutters

2

Thread the loop at the base of the trigger clasp onto the beading wire. Pass the end of the beading wire back through the crimp and pull the wire tight.

Cut a length of beading wire, to the length of the necklace/bracelet you require but remember to leave 15cm (6 inches) extra. Thread the beads onto the beading wire in the pattern of your choice. Then thread a crimp tube onto one end of the beading wire.

3

1x Split Ring

4

TIP

Ensure wires are side by side and crimp.

Please see Page 6 for different crimping methods.

Leave a cm and feed back into the next bead to create a secure and tidy finish.

Use the flush cutters to trim the excess beading wire.

Page 8

MAKING BRACELETS & NECKL ACES WITH BEADING WIRE

5

6

TIP

This technique can be used with any clasp.

Your finished necklace end should look like this.

Repeat steps 1-5 at the opposite end to attach your split ring.

Alternatively a soldered jump ring can be used.

Push a crimp cover over the compressed crimp tube. Press the crimp cover together with a pair of pliers. Press lightly to avoid flattening the crimp cover.

GUIDE TO BEADING WIRE GAUGES AND SIZES. The more strands = better quality, more kink resistant and better flexibility.

STRANDS

QUALIT Y

FLEXIBILIT Y

PRICE

GAUGE

FOR BEST USE WITH:

3 Strand /Tiger Tail

Okay

Very Low

£

.012

For delicate pearls, seed beads and other small hole beads

7 Strand

Good

Low

££

.015

Medium light. Great for pearls and gemstones.

19 Strand

Very Good

Medium

£££

Most versatile & .018 useable

49 Strand

The Best

High

£ £ £+

.024

All purpose diameter. Perfect for gemstones.

Best for use with heavy large items such as large chunky gemstones which need a high break strength.

Always choose a wire diameter which fits snug to the hole size of your beads.

Reducing excess space in the bead hole stops abrasion of your wire.

Page 9

NECKL ACE & BRACELET LENGTH GUIDE

NECKL ACE LENGTHS

BRACELET SIZES

BRACELET STANDARD ADULT

7.5’’ / 19cm

BRACELET STANDARD CHILD

6.5’’ / 16cm

‘‘The beauty of making your own jewellery is that you can personalise the length to whatever you want’’

Page 10

You will need:

MAKING A STRETCH BRACELET

Snippers / Scissors

Elastic Cord

1

Beads of your choice

2 TIP

Pre-stretch the elastic beforehand to avoid sagging after wearing.

Start by threading the beads in a design of your choice until the bracelet is to your desired length, check against your wrist for sizing.

3

Now leaving equal lengths of elastic cord at each end tie the elastic in a double knot.

4

TIP

To make the knot extra secure, add a dab of glue.

Pull the knot as tight as you can.

Check the knot is secure and trim the excess elastic with snippers or scissors.

Page 11

HOW TO TIE FRIENDSHIP / SLIDING KNOTS

Snippers / Scissors

1

A Length of Cord

2

Cut a length of cord approximately 40-45cm.

Form a loop with one end of the cord.

3

Wrap the end of the cord around and back through the loop.

4

TIP

This method can also be used to create necklaces.

Pull the knot as tight as you can.

Repeat at the opposite side to your first knot.

Trim the excess cord. Your bracelet should look like this.

Page 12

You will need:

MAKING ROUND CORD NECKL ACES

1

A Length of Cord

2 x Crimp & Rings

1 x Trigger Catch

TIP

2 x Jump Rings

Extender Chain

Chain Nose Pliers

2

Adding a spot of jewellery glue to end of the cord will make the ending more secure.

Cut a length of cord to your required size.

Insert the end of the cord into the crimp & ring.

3

Use your round nose pliers to press the tube down firmly in the middle segment to ensure that it grips the cord securely.

4

Open a jump ring and attach to the ring at the end of the cord. Then attach the trigger catch (or clasp of your choice) by it’s loop and close the jump ring.

Repeat this technique to attach an extender chain at the other end of the cord.

You will need:

Page 13

MAKING FL AT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKL ACES

A length of flat cord

2 x Cord End Fastener

1x Trigger Clasp

1

2 x Split ring

1x Extender Chain

Chain Nose pliers

Split Ring Pliers

2

TIP

Adding a spot of jewellery glue to end of the cord will make the ending more secure.

Cut a length of flat cord to your required size.

Insert the end of the flat cord into the cord end fastener.

3

Use chain nose pliers to press down one of the metal flaps on the cord end fastener.

4

Press down the other metal flap of the cord end fastener. The second flap should sit neatly on top of the first flap. Press all the way along the top of the cord ending to make sure it is evenly flattened down.

Use split ring pliers or manually by hand, prise open the split ring then attach to the loop on the cord end fastener. Next attach the trigger catch and feed round until connected.

Page 14

MAKING FL AT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKL ACES

6

5

Your necklace is now complete and ready to wear.

Attach the extender chain onto the other cord end fastener using the remaining split ring.

CL ASP GUIDE

7

Alternatively you can attach a toggle bar to the cord end fasteners, if you prefer.

BOLT RINGS (Spring Rings, Spring Clasps)

MAGNETIC

TOGGLE BAR (Bar and Ring, T-Bar)

TRIGGER CATCH (Lobster Clasp, Bocklebee Clasp, Carabiner Catch)

A further guide to clasps is available by visiting BEADHOUSE.CO.UK/CLASPS

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w: www.beadhouse.co.uk e: sales@beadhouse.co.uk t: +44(0)1484 485111 Bead House, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP