A STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO GETTING STARTED WITH JEWELLERY MAKING
GLOSSARY
ROUNDS
HEADPIN
EYEPIN
JUMP RING
CORD END FASTENER
BAIL
EAR WIRE
CRIMP COVER
END CRIMP & RING
CRIMP TUBE
CRIMP BEAD
TOGGLE BAR
EXTENDER CHAIN
TRIGGER CATCH
SPLIT RING
CHARM CARRIER
SCROLL
BELL CAP
GLOSSARY
CHAIN NOSE PLIERS
ROUND NOSE PLIERS
FLUSH CUTTERS
CRIMPING PLIERS
FLAT NOSE PLIERS
MEMORY WIRE CUTTERS
TWEEZERS
BEAD GAUGE
BEAD SCOOP
SNIPPERS
SPLIT RING PLIERS
JUMP RING TOOL
CALOTTE / NECKLACE END
EARSTUD & RING
BOLT RING
TRI-TRAY
PEARL KNOTTER
BEADING AWL
WITH OVER 40 YEAR’S EXPERIENCE OF SUPPLYING JEWELLERY DESIGNERS
ABOUT BEADHOUSE Welcome to Bead House, our company has over 40 years experience in the jewellery design trade. We hope this guide will provide you with a good reference to the main jewellery making techniques, to help you on your
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of design & trend led inspiration on our website, further How To guides, video tutorials, pre-designed Jewellery Making Kits and over 9,000 beading product lines.
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CONTENTS Page 1 - HOW TO CREATE A WIRE LOOP Page 2 - HOW TO CREATE A WRAPPED LOOP Page 3 -CREATING EARRINGS Page 4 - CREATING A PENDANT Page 5 - OPENING & CLOSING JUMP RINGS Page 5 - JUMP RING SIZING CHART Page 6 - DIFFERENT CRIMPING METHODS Page 7-8 - MAKING BRACELETS & NECKL ACES WITH BEADING WIRE Page 8 - GUIDE TO BEADING WIRE GAUGES AND SIZES Page 9 - NECKL ACE & BRACELET LENGTH GUIDE Page 10 - MAKING A STRETCH BRACELET Page 11 - HOW TO TIE FRIENDSHIP / SLIDING KNOTS Page 12 - MAKING ROUND CORD NECKL ACES Page 13-14 - MAKING FL AT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKL ACES
You will need:
Page 1
HOW TO CREATE A WIRE LOOP
1 x Head Pin
1 x Bead of your choice
1
Round Nose Pliers
Flush Cutters
2
Thread your bead onto a head pin.and bend the head pin to a 90째 angle.
3
Trim the wire to a length of 1cm with flush cutters.
4 TIP
You can reopen/ close the loop if you need to at anytime.
Grip the end of the wire and use the round nose pliers to roll/bend the wire towards the bead to form a loop.
Your loop should look like this. You can now attach your bead to earrings, necklaces and more.
Page 2
You will need:
HOW TO CREATE A WRAPPED LOOP
1 x Head Pin
1 x Bead of your choice
Chain Nose pliers
1
Round Nose Pliers
Flush Cutters
2
Thread your bead onto a head pin.and bend the head pin to a 90째 angle.
3
Using a pair of pliers or by hand take the end of the wire and wrap around the round nose pliers and cross underneath to create a loop.
4
TIP
Reposition the pliers to take hold of the loop. Using another set of pliers start to wrap the wire around the stem, forming a nice tight coil.
Use your pliers to neaten the end of the wire and coil if necessary When the coil reaches the top of the bead, snip off the excess wire with flush cutters.
You will need:
Page 3
CREATING EARRINGS
2x Pairs of Pliers
2x Jump Rings
1
2x Earwires
2 x Wire Wrapped Beads/Droppers
2 TIP
If using natural beads, remember to select a matching pair.
See previous page to create wire wrapped loops on your beads If you are using droppers/charms, these will already have a loop attached.
3
Open a jump ring (see page 5) attach to the loop at the top of the bead or on to your dropper/charm.
4
TIP
There are a variety of different earwires and studs you can use.
Next attach the earwire and close the jump ring. Repeat this process on the second earring.
Your finished earrings should look like this.
You will need:
CREATING A PENDANT
2x Pairs of Pliers
1x Bail
1
1x Headpin
Page 4
1x Bead of your choice
2
Using a pair of pliers or by hand take the end of the wire and wrap around the round nose pliers and cross underneath to create a loop.
Thread your bead onto a head pin and bend the head pin to a 90째 angle.
3
4
Thread the loop at the base of the bail onto the head pin so that the bail loop sits inside the head pin loop.
Grip the loop of the headpin with some pliers. Using another set of pliers start to wrap the wire around the stem, forming a nice tight coil. Snip off the excess wire with flush cutters.
OPENING & CLOSING JUMP RINGS
2x Pairs of Pliers
1x Jump Ring
You will need:
You will need:
Page 5
1x Pairs of Pliers
1x Jump Ring
Jump Ring Tool
TIP
Be sure not to pull sideways apart as this will distort the ring.
JUMP RING TOOL METHOD
PLIER METHOD
Place the jump ring tool on your finger and hold secure. With a pair of pliers, place the jump ring into a groove on the tool and twist in a north/south direction to open and close.
Grip the jump ring with two pairs of pliers and twist in a north/south direction.
JUMP RING SIZING CHART
4mm
6mm
8mm
10mm
Jump rings are also available soldered/closed which can be used where a solid ring is required in your jewellery designs.
Page 6
DIFFERENT CRIMPING METHODS
Flat/Chain Nose Pliers
Crimp Bead
CRIMPING PLIER METHOD
You will need:
You will need:
SIMPLE CRIMPING METHOD
You can use a crimp bead or crimp tube for this method.
Use a crimp tube for this method. We recommend a 2mm x 2mm tube.
Beading Wire
Thread your beading wire through your crimp, base of clasp and back through the crimp. Ensure beading wires stay parallel and are not crossed.
Crimping Pliers Inner Jaw
Outer Jaw
Beading Wire
Thread your beading wire through your crimp, base of clasp and back through the crimp. Ensure beading wires stay parallel and are not crossed.
Place the crimp part into the inner jaw and compress to create a ‘U’ shape.
Compress with chain/flat nose pliers.
Ensure beading wire is securely held by crimp.
Crimp Tube
TIP
Rotate and crimp in the outer jaw to make a nice compact tube.
Moving to the outer jaw turn the crimp 90° and compress to make a tube
You will need:
Page 7
1
MAKING BRACELETS & NECKL ACES WITH BEADING WIRE
Beads of.s your choice
Beading Wire
2x Crimp Tubes
2x Crimp Covers
SEE PAGE 9 FOR NECKLACE LENGTHS
1x Trigger Catch
Chain Nose Pliers
Crimping Pliers
Flush Cutters
2
Thread the loop at the base of the trigger clasp onto the beading wire. Pass the end of the beading wire back through the crimp and pull the wire tight.
Cut a length of beading wire, to the length of the necklace/bracelet you require but remember to leave 15cm (6 inches) extra. Thread the beads onto the beading wire in the pattern of your choice. Then thread a crimp tube onto one end of the beading wire.
3
1x Split Ring
4
TIP
Ensure wires are side by side and crimp. Please see Page 6 for different crimping methods.
Leave a cm and feed back into the next bead to create a secure and tidy finish. Use the flush cutters to trim the excess beading wire.
Page 8
MAKING BRACELETS & NECKL ACES WITH BEADING WIRE
5
6
TIP
This technique can be used with any clasp.
Your finished necklace end should look like this. Repeat steps 1-5 at the opposite end to attach your split ring. Alternatively a soldered jump ring can be used.
Push a crimp cover over the compressed crimp tube. Press the crimp cover together with a pair of pliers. Press lightly to avoid flattening the crimp cover.
GUIDE TO BEADING WIRE GAUGES AND SIZES. The more strands = better quality, more kink resistant and better flexibility. STRANDS
QUALIT Y
FLEXIBILIT Y
PRICE
GAUGE
FOR BEST USE WITH:
3 Strand /Tiger Tail
Okay
Very Low
£
.012
For delicate pearls, seed beads and other small hole beads
7 Strand
Good
Low
££
.015
Medium light. Great for pearls and gemstones.
19 Strand
Very Good
Medium
£££
Most versatile & .018 useable
49 Strand
The Best
High
£ £ £+
.024
All purpose diameter. Perfect for gemstones. Best for use with heavy large items such as large chunky gemstones which need a high break strength.
Always choose a wire diameter which fits snug to the hole size of your beads. Reducing excess space in the bead hole stops abrasion of your wire.
Page 9
NECKL ACE & BRACELET LENGTH GUIDE
NECKL ACE LENGTHS
BRACELET SIZES
BRACELET STANDARD ADULT
7.5’’ / 19cm
BRACELET STANDARD CHILD
6.5’’ / 16cm
‘‘The beauty of making your own jewellery is that you can personalise the length to whatever you want’’
Page 10
You will need:
MAKING A STRETCH BRACELET
Snippers / Scissors
Elastic Cord
1
Beads of your choice
2 TIP
Pre-stretch the elastic beforehand to avoid sagging after wearing.
Start by threading the beads in a design of your choice until the bracelet is to your desired length, check against your wrist for sizing.
3
Now leaving equal lengths of elastic cord at each end tie the elastic in a double knot.
4
TIP
To make the knot extra secure, add a dab of glue.
Pull the knot as tight as you can.
Check the knot is secure and trim the excess elastic with snippers or scissors.
Page 11
HOW TO TIE FRIENDSHIP / SLIDING KNOTS
Snippers / Scissors
1
A Length of Cord
2
Cut a length of cord approximately 40-45cm. Form a loop with one end of the cord.
3
Wrap the end of the cord around and back through the loop.
4
TIP
This method can also be used to create necklaces.
Pull the knot as tight as you can.
Repeat at the opposite side to your first knot. Trim the excess cord. Your bracelet should look like this.
Page 12
You will need:
MAKING ROUND CORD NECKL ACES
1
A Length of Cord
2 x Crimp & Rings
1 x Trigger Catch
TIP
2 x Jump Rings
Extender Chain
Chain Nose Pliers
2
Adding a spot of jewellery glue to end of the cord will make the ending more secure.
Cut a length of cord to your required size. Insert the end of the cord into the crimp & ring.
3
Use your round nose pliers to press the tube down firmly in the middle segment to ensure that it grips the cord securely.
4
Open a jump ring and attach to the ring at the end of the cord. Then attach the trigger catch (or clasp of your choice) by it’s loop and close the jump ring.
Repeat this technique to attach an extender chain at the other end of the cord.
You will need:
Page 13
MAKING FL AT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKL ACES
A length of flat cord
2 x Cord End Fastener
1x Trigger Clasp
1
2 x Split ring
1x Extender Chain
Chain Nose pliers
Split Ring Pliers
2
TIP
Adding a spot of jewellery glue to end of the cord will make the ending more secure.
Cut a length of flat cord to your required size. Insert the end of the flat cord into the cord end fastener.
3
Use chain nose pliers to press down one of the metal flaps on the cord end fastener.
4
Press down the other metal flap of the cord end fastener. The second flap should sit neatly on top of the first flap. Press all the way along the top of the cord ending to make sure it is evenly flattened down.
Use split ring pliers or manually by hand, prise open the split ring then attach to the loop on the cord end fastener. Next attach the trigger catch and feed round until connected.
Page 14
MAKING FL AT LEATHER / SUEDE NECKL ACES
6
5
Your necklace is now complete and ready to wear.
Attach the extender chain onto the other cord end fastener using the remaining split ring.
CL ASP GUIDE
7
Alternatively you can attach a toggle bar to the cord end fasteners, if you prefer.
BOLT RINGS (Spring Rings, Spring Clasps)
MAGNETIC
TOGGLE BAR (Bar and Ring, T-Bar)
TRIGGER CATCH (Lobster Clasp, Bocklebee Clasp, Carabiner Catch)
A further guide to clasps is available by visiting BEADHOUSE.CO.UK/CLASPS
WWW.BEADHOUSE.CO.UK
w: www.beadhouse.co.uk e: sales@beadhouse.co.uk t: +44(0)1484 485111 Bead House, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP