BEAST magazine issue 9 by beastmag.co.uk

BEAST LONDON

MEET THE FOOD HEROES East Londoners creating the future of food â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Liam Charles, Leon Rothera, Sara Kiyo Popowa and more

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BEAST magazine is brought to you by Publisher & Creative Director Nicky Acketts Executive Director Helen Samuel Editor Emma Winterschladen Sub Editor Jane Gazzard Digital Editor Siobhan Gunner Social Media Sarah Ardell Features Ellie Smith, Rachael Healy, Leonie Helm, Emilie Wade Contributors Lara Mills, Gemma Wardle Printed in the UK by Cliffe Enterprise Ltd Press press@beastmag.co.uk To advertise contact partnerships@beastmag.co.uk ON THE COVER Photography by Jamal Thomas on location at Ridley Road Market. With thanks to Draughts London Beast magazine is published five times a year and is available throughout East London. Every effort is made to ensure the information contained in the magazine is correct. We cannot accept responsibility for omissions or errors. Opinions expressed in the content are strictly those of the authors.

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TO MARKET, TO MARKET What better way to celebrate our first-ever Food Heroes issue than with a trip to Ridley Road Market with three of East London’s finest foodies? We spent a happy afternoon there with our cover stars Leon Rothera, Liam Charles and Sara Kiyo Popowa. Groceries were bought, oranges were juggled and laughs were had with some of Dalston’s friendliest locals. Head to page 17 to read about the incredible work these three, and others, are doing in the world of food. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMAL THOMAS

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OUT THERE Eyes wide open and ears to the ground

Backstage booze Signature Brew are on a mission to revolutionise the quality of beer at live music events with their music-inspired craft beers including Roadie, Studio Lager and Backstage IPA. They brew from their taproom and music venue in Walthamstow and, as well as supplying venues and festivals across the UK and beyond, they’ve branched into band collaboration beers, working with Mastodon, alt-J, Mogwai and Frank Turner among others. signaturebrew.co.uk

Ready to level up your Insta game? Head to 134 Columbia Road from 19-22 March for BEAST cover star Sara Kiyo Popowa's workshops on food photography and styling, social media and stop motion animation. To book your place or check out other upcoming events, head over to shisodelicious.com/calendar

PLANT-FORWARD FODDER A stone's throw from Old Street Station, you’ll find ATIS, a plant-powered eatery serving up food that is “good for the body, the soul and the planet”. Run by a husband and wife duo, ATIS was born with a mission to offer punters something the pair felt was missing from London’s lunch scene — nutritious hot and cold salad bowls that refuse to compromise on flavour — much better than a soggy sandwich! 145 City Road, EC1V 1AZ website

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BEST THING SINCE SLICED BREAD From the makers of Farmerama (an awardwinning monthly podcast celebrating the UK’s smaller-scale farmers) comes CEREAL — a deep dive into the secrets behind the bread we eat. Listen in to hear about the local talent labouring to create loaves that are fit for the future (for our climate, our soil and our guts). farmerama.co

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WORDS: ELLIE SMITH

#foodporn

NATURALLY SPARKLING LOW ALCOHOL

WATER KEFIR Locally fermented in the Casa de Madre, Bohemia Place Hackney Central

aguademadre.co.uk @aguademadre

OUT THERE

CHEESE! (KINDA) Been put off by sub-standard vegan cheeses? Kinda Co.’s cashew creations are a different breed. In fact, they’ve been so popular that what started in 2017 as a one-woman enterprise, based out of a tiny flat in Angel, has grown into a fully fledged commercial kitchen in Hackney. The nine cheesy varieties are now available to order online — we recommend the bestselling Farmhouse cheddar or the Spirulina Blue. thekindaco.com

Syd lives on We were sad to see Syd’s coffee stall close last year after over 100 years of service. A true East London institution, it had sat on Calvert Avenue — just off Shoreditch High Street — since 1919 when First World War veteran Sydney Tothill used £117 of his invalidity pension to start the business. Like most coffee stalls of its time, it didn’t sell coffee as we know it today, but rather a brown liquid called Camp Coffee (made of essence of coffee beans, chicory and sugar), as well as tea, cocoa and Bovex, or the poor man’s Bovril. Thankfully, it’s been announced that the stall will live on as part of the London Collection at the Museum of London, so plan a day trip to discover more of its rich history, including Syd’s special licence to abstain from blackouts and continue serving during the Blitz. 150 London Wall EC2Y 5HN (open daily 10am–6pm and free to all) museumoflondon.org.uk beastmag.co.uk

BEAST

OUT THERE

Zero-waste takeaway DabbaDrop is an independent, planet-friendly takeaway service delivering plant-based curries to East London homes. The plastic and emissionfree service is the brainchild of Anshu Ahuja and Renee Williams, two Hackney neighbourhood friends who bonded over their love of cooking and a desire to make a small difference to the planet. The curries are delivered in Mumbai’s famous reusable stainless steel tiffin boxes (known as dabba) and are whisked around the city on push or E-bikes. Following a successful pilot run in Hackney, Walthamstow and Leyton, they’re expanding across E2, E3, E15 and E20 — happy days! Prices start from £28 for a meal for two. Try your first delivery for free by heading over to dabbadrop.co.uk

SPIN ME RIGHT ROUND BABY Led by the irrepressible Emma, a team of instructors at Spun Candy work together like the doctors and nurses in an emergency labour ward. Suddenly a huge roll of multi-coloured candy is born! Then it’s chopped into a hundred pieces for you to twist and squeeze and impale on sticks. It’s a carefully choreographed, fast-paced carcophony, a high energy show with you and yours as the leading players. And the best part? It’s all yours, neatly packaged, to take away. 58 Wentworth Street, E1 7AL. spun-candy.com

SKIP THE HANGOVER If a Dry January has turned into a Dry 2020, head down to SHAMAN, London’s first no/low-alcohol bar. This drinking den of the future is on a mission to disrupt the idea that bars can only be enjoyed with alcohol, and has instead been created with healing, rejuvenation and self care in mind. The drinks, crafted in collaboration with renowned chef Robin Gill and nutritionist Olga Hamilton, are designed to be both delicious and nutritious and will leave you feeling as energised as any espresso martini. Leman Locke, Aldgate 15 Leman Street, E1 8EN. lockeliving.com/leman-locke 10 B E A S T

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@atthearches

@shrutzhaasan

Matt Ham and Savannah Lee

Liz Earle MBE and Shruti Haasan

@rebeldistillers

Lucas Mitchell and Lara Mills

Liz Earle MBE and Emma Winterschladen

Bex Girvan, Chloe Barnes and April Chen

Charlie Gates

@honestfoodslondon

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMAL THOMAS @JAMALOOP

Leon Rothera @honestfoodslondon

Sarah Daniel, Deborah Mason, Michelle Oliver and Nicky Acketts

Underneath the arches A gathering of friends old and new at The Arches in Bethnal Green for a memorable gig with Shruti Haasan, plus cocktails, canapĂŠs and chatter. Huge thanks to 640East, Leon Rothera (of Honest Food London), Rebel Distillers, Jeffreyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tonic and Hackney Sporkle. beastmag.co.uk

BEAST

Into the woods

Estelle Digridi and Ann Castle

Our growing BEAST community came together to celebrate the stars of the east at bespoke flooring company Solid Floor’s new showroom on Ezra Street. Gin and tonics were flowing freely and Japanese finger food, courtesy of Issho-Ni, went down a storm – as did Lily Vanilli’s sweet treats. @lilyvanilli

Jordi De Jongh and Emily Flood Rob Weems, Emma Winterschladen, Eelke Jan Bles and Nicky Acketts Gemma Wardle and Michelle Frawley

Stella Blunt

Sophie Smith

James Ostrer Jordan McKenzie and friend Margot Lareux, Adam and Kally Lawrence

Lucie Sitch and Adam Brazier

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUCY THOMSON @LUCY_THOMSON

@cratebrewery

Maria Loizou, Emma Winterschladen and Stephen Anthony Davids

Alice Delarue and Tommy Papaionnou

@isshoni_uk

Russell Hilliard and Dolly Daydream

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Michelle Fawley and Heather Harding Sophie Castle

Libee Offiah and Elle Parmer Jenkins

RESTAURANT & BAR 185 beastmag.co.uk

Bethnal

Green

Road,

London

issho-ni.com

Matt Ham and Savannah Lee

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BEAST BEAST

Saucy Bitch Sauce Available in seven flavours £5.95, saucybitch.co.uk

London Breakfast, 15 bio-degradable teabags The London Tea Company £3.99, londontea.co.uk

EAST END

‘Rahul’ 2018 Qvevri Bacchus Skin Contact White £25, renegadelondonwine.com

DELIGHTS

Forman's pickled beetroot Homemade pickles and chutneys, supplied in reusable Kilner jars, Forman and Field 14 B E A S T

£9.50, formanandfield.com

Stock up your larder with the good stuff – artisan food and drink bought locally and independently produced

Clean bean organic tofu £3.30, cleanbean.co.uk

The Baron Classic espresso From £7.50, climpsonandsons.com

Rhubarb & cardamon jam £5, londonboroughofjam.com

Raw blossom honey and dipper £15, localhoneyman.co.uk

JG’s tinned seafood A Portuguese Love Affair From £5.45, aportugueseloveaffair.co.uk

Saw Handmade Chocolate Variety of flavours Large bar £5.50 (100g) 72 Hoe Street, E17 4PG

Real-brewed Organic Tea (with oat milk) MyTeaMighty £3.50 each or two for £6 @mytea.mighty BEAST

It’s not sushi It’s not taco

It’s SUGOI Experience the joy of a #Noritaco Nori + Taco = A crispy seaweed tempura shell with Japanese Latin fusion fillings

Arch 7 Gales Gardens, Bethnal Green, E2 0EJ Follow @sugoijpn on Instagram

Winner of the Best Takeaway Chef Britain 2019 - BTAS beastmag.co.uk BEAST 16

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

FOOD

HEROES

WITH THANKS TO MAT FAWCETT AT JULIAN'S FRUIT STALL, RIDLEY ROAD MARKET

From those broadening our taste buds to those rescuing food fated for landfill, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re putting the spotlight on the Eastenders changing the face of our food scene for good

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Liam Charles

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I bet you we are gunna bump into my nan here,” says Liam Charles, two minutes before bumping into his nan. We are amid the weekday bustle of Ridley Road Market in Dalston, shooting our ‘Food Heroes’ front cover. It’s a place Liam knows well. “I spent a lot of my childhood here with my nan — on school holidays or when I was ‘sick’. Ha! I’d be her bag carrier.” He has his arm wrapped around his nan’s shoulders. She rolls her eyes lovingly, tutting at him for not coming to see her more often. “Truth is, I’ve been so busy — but I know it’s not an excuse.” He’s right, though, he has been busy. Since first gracing our screens in 2017 on The Great British Bake Off and winning over a nation with his cheeky, smiley, laid-back nature, Liam’s star is continuing to rise. He already has two books to his name and currently hosts Junior Bake Off and Bake Off: The Professionals. “We're starting filming next week and it’s going to be mad — but I love it.” Despite his celebrity status, Liam is as grounded as they come: “It’s my mum! She makes sure my head doesn’t get too big.” There are no airs and graces here — in fact, he arrived at Draughts on Kingsland Road, our base for the day, bang on time, bright and breezy, with a suit bag full of

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clothes. “Mum helped me pull together some outfits — she said I have to look smart!” As we head out to our photoshoot, it’s clear Liam is still as embedded as ever in the local community. He bounces around market stalls saying hello to old friends and happily taking selfies with anyone who asks. However, it turns out he wasn’t always as into cooking as he is now. “It was my nan who was the big cook — I was always the eater. She came over from Jamaica at a young age and she instilled in me a real taste for good, homecooked food. I grew up eating curried goat and salt fish.” Where did baking come into it then? “That wasn’t until I was at university,” he says. “Baking has played a huge part in instilling co n f i d e n ce i n m e . I t o f fe re d me a way to express myself. As much as it’s a science, an artist’s flair is needed too. Baking is proof that art doesn’t have to just be taught in traditional forms.” It’s for this reason Liam feels so passionate about his job presenting Junior Bake Off: “It’s heartening to see such an interest in baking from young people (contestants are aged nine to 15). There’s a new generation of bakers springing up around the country — from East London to Manchester and beyond.”

‘BAKING HAS PLAYED A HUGE PART IN INSTILLING CONFIDENCE IN ME. IT OFFERED ME A WAY TO EXPRESS MYSELF’

WORDS: EMMA WINTERSCHLADEN. PHOTOGRAPH BY HAARALA HAMILTON. © HODDER & STOUGHTON

Stokey-born Liam Charles is carving out a unique career in the world of food, three years on from his stint on The Great British Bake Off. He talks to editor Emma Winterschladen about baking, bowling and growing up in East London

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As for Liam’s own corner o f E a st L o n d o n , St o k e Newington, he says he’s watched it shift and change dramatically over the years. “Gentrification is real. It’s crazy, man,” he says. “The area around Dalston, where I used to go to school, was so run down, but it’s hardly r e co g n i s a b l e n o w a n d I wasn’t at school that long ago!” However, Liam – who is still only 22 – talks fondly of the area’s ever-growing, diverse food scene. “You’re never short of places to go on Stoke Newington Church Street, and luckily some of the classics are still there like The Spence Bakery. I spent a lot of time there in secondary school.” But it’s not all about the food for Liam. His other great love (verging on, in his own words, an “obsession”) is bowling. “It’s my new guilty pleasure. I probably shouldn’t be going at the rate I do, but it’s how I wind down and relax. I’m trying to reach 250 points.” He’s yet to get his own bowling ball, but when he does, it’ll be, he says, “a cupcake with icing on top — in fact, I think I need to open up a cake-themed bowling alley”. But one thing’s certain – whether Liam carries on his broadcasting career or goes on to become a bake ’n’ bowling entrepreneur, East London will always be home. “I’ve got ‘Stokey’ in my veins.” B Follow Liam on Instagram and Twitter @LiamCBakes

(Hodder & Stoughton, £22)

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CHICK’N’SOURS “Their fried chicken is one of the best! I really enjoy their chicken katsu with Japanese pickles. Great cocktails too.” 390 Kingsland Road, Dalston, E8 4AA 14 Artillery Passage, Spitalfields, E1 7LJ

Liam bumped into his nan on Ridley Road Market while on the BEAST cover photoshoot

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Second Helpings by Liam Charles

Liam's EAST LONDON

BEIGEL BAKE “If you don’t know about this, where have you been? They’re open 24 hours in case you need a 4am bagel.” 159 Brick Lane, Shoreditch, E1 6SB ITTO “I love dim sum. I love prawn dumplings. I love this place.” 226 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7HU DEVRAN RESTAURANT “This is the place to go for really good Turkish food. Try their falafel with hummus and prawns to start, then the mixed grill for one so you can sample everything.” 170-172 Stoke Newington Road, N16 7UY LUMINARY BAKERY “Their cakes are bangin’, and it’s a social enterprise run by women for women. They provide training, community and employment opportunities.” 71-73 Allen Road, Stoke Newington, N16 8RY

‘THERE’S A NEW

GENERATION OF BAKERS SPRINGING UP AROUND THE COUNTRY — FROM EAST LONDON TO MANCHESTER AND BEYOND’

#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Sara Kiyo Popowa Half-Japanese, half-Bulgarian, Sara Kiyo Popowa was born and raised in Sweden before travelling much of Asia. Today, she lives and works in London, photographing and teaching beautiful, plant-based cooking via her popular Instagram @shisodelicious

he food of Sara Kiyo Popowa is the sort of food that makes you feel good — to look at, to cook, to taste. Her journey to the muchloved food personality she is today started after a newly-wed trip to Japan. Sara started a visual diary of the bento boxes she made her husband for work (which later inspired her first book Bento Power: Brilliantly Balanced Lunchbox Recipes). Soon her vibrant vegan creations, beautifully shot with a focus on sustainable, seasonal ingredients, amassed her a loyal following and the rest, as they say, is history. Sara shares with us her favourite plant-centric hot spots in East London from her most recent book An Opinionated Guide to Vegan London, published by Hoxton Mini Press.

PLANT HUB & ACADEMY

Restaurant, bakery and cookery school What do you get when you take a chef, a cookbook author and restaurateur, and a culinary school instructor and drop them near London Fields? An organic restaurant, gluten-free bakery and cooking academy, of course. Pulling together different strands of the more health-conscious, raw end of the food spectrum, Plant Hub serves classics with a spin. Try the gluten-free focaccia topped with truffle mushroom and kale, the chickpea omelette or aubergine parmigiana, and finish with a flower- adorned gluten-

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free pea brownie. Inspired? Sign up for a masterclass in anything from food styling to molecular gastronomy. 217 Mare Street, E8 3QE @planthubuk @plantacademyuk planthub.net

MAO CHOW

Innovative Chinese small plates This one-chef, one-waitress hole-in-the-wall will rock your world and possibly blow your mind if the Chinese moonshine is on the menu. Sit yourself at the bright yellow table (there’s just one, so prepare to make new friends), order everything, and get ready for an onslaught of bold and layered Sichuan pepper-fuelled flavours. Umami-rich dan dan noodles, crispy oyster mushroom bao, the chef’s secret blend of ‘meaty veg’ and the sticky Chinese doughnuts will have you scrambling to visit again. Bring your nonvegan foodie friends that need wowing. 159A Mare Street, E8 3RH @mao_chow, mao-chow.com

WAVE

Imaginative dishes in a peaceful space Follow the WAVE sign on Mare Street and bob down the alley to this plant-adorned space. In warm weather you can sit out in the courtyard; otherwise, sink into one of the sofas or have a go on a hanging chair.

Next, order a peanut butter coffee (you read that right – and yes, it’s unbelievably moreish) and get choosing. Perhaps a banana Biscoff freakshake? Or a stack of syrupy coconut-bacun pancakes? If you prefer your treats savoury, the sourdough toasts piled with toppings of garlic mushrooms, seedy smashed avo or turmeric tofu scramble will do nicely. 11 Dispensary Lane, E8 1FT @we_are_vegan_everything weareveganeverything.com

THE SPREAD EAGLE London’s first vegan pub If you find yourself pub-fatigued, head over to The Spread Eagle. Your faith in ordering nachos and fish burgers from a pub menu might bounce back too – in fact, any of the dishes, created by resident streetfood stars Club Mexicana, will bring you joy. Neither a gastropub nor posh, the place offers a fresh take on pub culture: innovative drinks, happy staff and the chance to catch up with friends without losing your voice. The sexy sapphire blue interior and Prince shrine seal the deal. 224 Homerton High Street, E9 6AS @thespreadeaglelondon thespreadeaglelondon.co.uk shisodelicious.com, @shishodelicious

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Douglas McMaster After witnessing the tremendous waste produced in professional kitchens, Douglas McMaster set out to challenge the unsustainable practices of modern food systems. He’s put his money where his mouth is with his zero-waste restaurant, Silo (originally based in Brighton, it has recently found a new home in Hackney Wick). Everything that happens at Silo is planned back to front, always with the bin in mind. They’ve eliminated waste by trading directly with farmers, opting for reusable delivery vessels and choosing local ingredients that themselves generated no waste. The restaurant’s resident compost machines turn any scraps and trimmings back into compost, which is returned to farmers to create more food — closing the loop. @silolondon , silolondon.com

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WORDS: ELLIE SMITH

Sarah Bentley Sarah and her team at Made in Hackney are passionate about making healthy, sustainable, local food available to all. This pioneering, plant-centric community kitchen offers free food growing, composting and cooking classes to disadvantaged groups such as young carers, low-income families, people in care and the chronically ill. Sarah and co-founder Joshana Lovage launched the project after securing a Big Lottery grant in October 2012. Since then, they have run regular classes teaching locals how to make bread, preserve food and even whip up a family meal for under ÂŁ3. @madeinhackney, madeinhackney.org BEAST

#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Leon Rothera

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From a hippie upbringing in the north-east to the star-studded film and TV sets of East London and beyond, meet the Shoreditch-based chef on a mission to bring good food back to basics

“I used to take a candle up to bed with me!” says Leon Rothera of his childhood in a remote cottage on a hill. “We lived off the land until I was seven, growing most of our own food. We had chickens, goats and my dad kept bees, too.” Leon is describing the eco-aspirational life some of us dream of living today. But this was the 1980s, before being self-sufficient earned you Instagram likes or conversation starters at dinner parties. Born to bohemian parents in Newcastle upon Tyne, Leon was one of the first children in the North East to be officially home-schooled. “For a while I just wanted to be called something regular like Adam, go to school and be normal. But now I really embrace my name and roots,” says Leon. And it turns out his roots run deep, with a family tree grown out of freedom, food and creativity. Named after his French great-grandfather, Leon has also inherited his rebellious entrepreneurial spirit. “He owned a bakery in the Massif Central region of France, which my dad still has to this day. During World War II, my great-grandfather was a bread dealer, selling his famous loaves on the black market. He was one of the only bakers dealing bread at a time when people didn’t have access to lovely loaves, due to rationing. He did really well, but still drove a taxi as his side hustle.”

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So was it written in the stars that Leon was going to work in the world of food himself? “I grew up surrounded by delicious home-cooked food — my mum was a big baker and there was always a batch of jam tarts, scones, sausage rolls or my mum's speciality, Bakewell tarts on the go. For as long as I can remember, I wanted to do that as my job. I was always baking cakes and making omelettes, to varying degrees of success!” After college, Leon went on to work alongside Michelin-starred chefs, Herbert Berger at No.1 Lombard Street and Paul Gayler at The Lanesborough, refining his talent — although he says his culinary skills are mostly selftaught. “The way I cook today is the result of lots of trial and error, such as my pastry which I now make by eye.” Leon moved away from the highoctane, highly-regimented restaurant world and, channelling his great-grandfather, set up on his own – first catering for dinner parties with Joudie Kalla (author of Palestine on a Plate). “After three years, in 2005 I opened up a deli/café called Honest Foods in Brixton, serving independently sourced produce from around the UK – it was a celebration of the best of British food, done simply and well.” However, Leon realised that bringing in a few hundred pounds a day wasn’t going to cut it.

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WORDS: EMMA WINTERSCHLADEN

‘IT’S ABOUT COOKING WITH INTEGRITY AND COOKING FOOD I’D WANT TO EAT MYSELF, MADE FROM SCRATCH’

CAMPANIA “Homely, southern Italian plates of pasta at my favourite spot just off Columbia Road.” 23 Ezra Street, E2 7RH campaniaandjones.com MORITO “Exciting African/Spanish sharing plates in a buzzing restaurant.” 195 Hackney Road, E2 8JL 32 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE

moritohackneyroad.co.uk MY NEIGHBOURS THE DUMPLINGS “Awesome Chinese dumplings, and there’s a great hidden bar and outside area downstairs.” 165 Lower Clapton Road, E5 8EQ; 178-180 Victoria Park Road, E9 7HD myneighboursthedumplings.com OMBRA “Lots of proper Italian dishes you may not have eaten before.” 1 Vyner Street, E2 9DG ombrabar.restaurant ST JOHN BREAD AND WINE “Banging bacon sarnie at breakfast and nose-to-tail sharing plates for the rest of the day.” 94-96 Commercial Street, E1 6LZ stjohnrestaurant.com

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Then came a moment of serendipity – when he was locking up for one last time, ready to hand over the keys and rent out his café space, he received a call asking if he wanted to cater for the indie film Kick Off. “I’d catered for a PlayStation commercial before, but to be offered a film was a gamechanger.” So for the next two years, Leon worked out of his kitchen in Bow, before setting up officially in Shoreditch. Today, he caters for the likes of Black Mirror, James Bond films, Mission Impossible and most recently, his biggest job yet, Netflix’s new series Bridgerton. And does Leon miss running his café? “I love the freedom I have now, because it’s different – rather than appealing to one type of self-selecting customer, you have to please everyone on a set, from the riggers and sparkies, to the vegan gluten-free artists and sometimes fussy actors.” One actor who isn’t fussy, though, and is a fan of Leon is Olivia Colman. “She requested us for Broadchurch, after we worked as support catering on The Crown, which was a great feeling.” And as for creating food that appeals to all, Leon’s cooking style is what he calls “honest food”. “It’s about cooking with integrity and cooking food I’d want to eat myself, made from scratch — I’m all about a brilliant, homemade stock as a base.” Talk turns to East London, where

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Leon's EAST LONDON

Leon’s prep kitchen and office is based. “It’s been exciting to experience the food scene and see it change over the last 10 years. There’s been a move away from high-brow fine dining, to a more braunstyle, nose-to-tail style of restaurant. There’s a reason why the likes of St John’s Bread and Wine in Spitalfields and Lyle’s in Shoreditch are soaring.” Bone marrow on toast. Smoked mackerel with horseradish. It’s this sort of comforting food, showcasing artisan, good-quality produce that Leon is happy to see more of. That eating out should be, first and foremost, a pleasure to be enjoyed rather than a show to be impressed by, is one reason he set up @dad_elise_and_food with his daughter Elise. “We review restaurants we go to together. She’s now 13 and at the age where she’s a bit cool for me, but it’s still a great way for us to spend time together.” It’s a way too for Leon to share his passion and pass on his knowledge of food. “We didn’t ever eat out when I was little, so it’s nice to introduce Elise to the varied and colourful cuisines on offer in London. I always think a child’s palette should be better than their parents’.” The kind of food Leon eats and cooks is the kind of food we all increasingly want to eat and cook. Hearty, humble and predominantly from the land. “Today my food has come full circle and reflects that of my childhood,” he says. “There’s a focus on provenance and ingredients, with vegetables at centre stage.” With that, Leon lifts his arm to show an intricate artichoke, etched into his skin: “Dad used to grow the best artichokes. It’s a reminder of where I’m from and who I am.” B Check out Leon's new event space at 10 Helmsley Place, E8 3SB. Email bookings@honestfoodslondon.com Follow Leon on Instagram @Leonrothera

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Alice Williams After some time in Thailand working for an organisation that cares for women who have left the sex industry, Alice recognised that women were facing similar issues on her doorstep in East London. In 2013, after a £16,000 crowdfunding campaign, Luminary Bakery was born. As well as serving delicious bakes to sweet-toothed punters, this social enterprise's chief purpose is to empower women who have been victims of violence, (such as sex trafficking), have been in the prison system or been homeless, and giving them an opportunity to get their lives back on track via a route into employment. And it’s working a treat — so far, Luminary has supported over 90 women, helping them build a sustainable career and independent life. The work doesn't stop there though: they've recently received partial funding from the National Lottery Community Fund, which will allow them to bring opportunities to four times as many women at any one time. @luminarybakery, luminarybakery.com

Bettina Campolucci Bordi Denmark-born, London-living Bettina has long been a champion of the plant-based, seasonal way of life and, most importantly, how we can make it accessible to everyone. With two books to her name, her most recent The 7 Day Vegan Challenge, fully encompasses Bettina’s joyful, fuss-free approach to food. Alongside hosting mindful retreats throughout the year to far-flung locations, she also runs workshops in and around East London, focusing on low-waste, roots-to-shoots cooking. Her new podcast, What the Focaccia, has just launched with Niki Webster of Rebel Recipes, and includes juicy conversations with fellow foodies on how to be sustainable as a food business in the modern day. Look out too for her new YouTube channel series — a behind-the-scenes look at farms and factories, and how we can build a more planet-friendly food future. @bettinaskitchen, bettinaskitchen.co.uk

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Clerkenwell Boy He’s the faceless food editor and travel writer behind the popular @clerkenwellboyec1 Insta account. He's eaten everything worth eating in London — whether you’re after a mean steak or the best Chelsea bun in town, he has a talent for hunting down the very best treasures hidden within London’s culinary scene. Even Jamie Oliver is a fan, saying: “I watch his pictures with total jealousy every week.” What really makes this EC1 entrepreneur a food hero, however, is his humanitarian work. The #CookforSyria campaign he co-founded has to date raised over £1,000,000 for Unicef’s Children of Syria Fund, and included two books and a whole host of supper clubs celebrating Syrian cuisine. More recently, he’s also organised a series of fundraising lunches and dinners in collaboration with Australian chefs to raise funds for those affected by the devastating fires down under. Keep an eye out for upcoming events. @clerkenwellboyec1

Jonathon Cook While most of us head to supermarkets to pick up our weekly fodder, Jonathon Cook — also known as John the Poacher — heads to the marshes and local land around Hackney. From foraging mushrooms to berries, wood pigeon to rabbits, he’s able to supply ingredients to East London’s eco bars, breweries, cafés and restaurants. If you’re interested in following in his footsteps, you can book a space on one of his coveted foraging walks. @johnthepoacher

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HIS #COOKFORSYRIA CAMPAIGN HAS RAISED OVER £1,000,000 FOR UNICEF'S CHILDREN OF SYRIA FUND CLERKENWELL BOY

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WORDS: ELLIE SMITH

Melissa Hemsley Leyton-living Melissa is a self-taught chef, food columnist and best-selling author. She’s also a food activist and sustainability champion, passionate about spreading the power of feel-good food. For Melissa, this means food that not only tastes delicious, but which nourishes, is grown with the seasons and with respect for the people who grow it. It’s food to be enjoyed (and preferably shared) and it’s food that is used to its full 'root-to-shoot' potential with, most importantly, nothing wasted unnecessarily. Oozing with her happy food philosophy, Melissa’s new cookbook Eat Green (Ebury Press, £22) is packed with fun and flavoursome flexitarian fodder. @melissa.hemsley, melissahemsley.com BEAST

Parsnip dahl topped with roasted parsnips and pink pickled onions

Fill your belly with Melissa Hemsley's healthy, hearty rooty goodness

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This is ideal to make at the end of the weekend with any leftover root veg that didn’t make it into the Sunday roast. It will set you up nicely for Monday’s dinner – just reheat and top with the onions and yoghurt and either freeze the rest or enjoy later in the week. FEEDS 6, TAKES 40 MINS 4 tbsp ghee or oil 5 large parsnips (about 900g) 1 tbsp maple syrup 2 large onions, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 thumb of ginger, finely grated 400g split red lentils, rinsed 2 large handfuls of fresh coriander, leaves and stems finely chopped separately 3 tbsp tomato purée 1 × 400ml tin of full-fat coconut milk 200g leafy greens, like chard, leaves and stems finely chopped Yoghurt, to serve (optional) l

1 Preheat the oven to fan 220°C/Gas mark 9 and melt two tablespoons of the ghee or oil on a large baking tray in the oven. 2 Meanwhile, mix the spice mix in a small bowl and slice up three of the parsnips into about 18 wedges, say 5cm × 1.5cm, then toss the parsnip wedges in the oil on the tray with half of the spice mix. Pop in the oven for about 30–35 minutes, tossing halfway through with the maple syrup, until golden and going crispy at the edges.

SPICE MIX

1½ tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp ground cumin or 1½ tbsp cumin seeds, roughly ground 2 tbsp ground coriander or 1½ tbsp coriander seeds 2 tbsp black mustard seeds, roughly ground A pinch of chilli flakes or chilli powder A big pinch of sea salt and black pepper l

PINK PICKLED ONIONS l

2 large red onions, thinly sliced Juice of 2 limes or 4 tbsp vinegar A big pinch of sea salt 2 tsp maple syrup (optional)

TIP If you have vegetable stock, use it instead of hot water for extra flavour

3 In a large pan, fry the onion in the remaining two tablespoons of ghee over a medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, while you get on with everything else. 4 Add the remaining half of the spice mix, plus the garlic and ginger and fry for three minutes. 5 Add the diced parsnips and lentils, the chopped coriander stems and the tomato purée and let fry. After a minute, add the coconut milk, then fill up the tin four times with hot water (1.6 litres) and pour in, stirring well. Pop the lid on, bring to the boil and immediately turn down to a medium heat and let simmer for 20 minutes. Stir a few times throughout to make sure the lentils don’t stick. Add more liquid if you think it needs it or if you like your dahl soupier, like I do. 6 Meanwhile, scrunch and massage the red onion in a bowl with the lime juice, salt and maple syrup, if using, for 30 seconds, then leave to bathe in the salty lime juice. Once the lentils and parsnips in the pan are cooked, add the chopped greens, pop the lid on so they steam for 3–5 minutes until just tender, then taste for seasoning. Serve up each bowl, topped with the roasted parsnips, coriander leaves, pink pickled onions and their juices and a dollop of yoghurt, if you like. WASTE NOT Swap the parsnips for carrots, sweet potato, squash or cauliflower and you can use kale or spinach in place of the chard.

EAT GREEN By Melissa Hemsley (Ebury Press, £22) PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILIPPA LANGLEY

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

Dina Begum British-Bangladeshi food writer and cook Dina celebrates the energy and culinary fusion of the East End. Here she shares her passion, stories and food traditions with Katy Beale, from online creative platform Yodomo When and where did you learn to cook?

What do you listen to when you’re cooking?

I developed a love for baking after learning to make cupcakes and biscuits in primary school, and I baked obsessively as a child. Around the age of nine or 10, I began helping my mother to prepare Bangladeshi meals and also learnt from my maternal grandmother.

I love listening to Nina Simone for uplifting vibes and classical Bengali music, such as Rabindra Sangeet while I bake as I find it soothing.

What is your favourite thing to cook at the moment? One of my favourite things is preserving. I grew up watching my grandmother make all sorts of chutneys and pickles, which added punch to mealtimes – I love the magic of it all, bringing together all sorts of lovely food combinations and flavours.

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Do you enjoy teaching people how to cook? Yes, because I believe cooking is a basic life skill that everyone should try to learn. I’m passionate about using seasonal and fresh ingredients, and the importance of cooking from scratch, which I’ve learnt from my mother. It’s good to know exactly what’s going into a dish and where it comes from. Teaching others helps me pass on my knowledge and demonstrate how easy it can be to rustle up home-cooked meals – sometimes very quickly and with only a few ingredients. beastmag.co.uk

What are your top tips for spicing? Never rush spicing. Taste as you go and always remember to cook out your spices, otherwise you’ll have a raw and unpalatable taste to your dish. Build flavour by using both ground and whole spices. For example, I always add whole spices at the start of cooking curry, then add ground ones at a later stage.

What advice do you give people who think they don’t know how to cook? It’s really not that scary! Begin with a few basics, perfect those and then move on to more advanced dishes. If you can make a good omelette, you can make anything. Use cookbooks, watch a friend or family member as they cook or watch YouTube videos – whatever works for you. Consistency and practice are key.

Your favourite restaurants in East London? Smoking Goat, for their smoky barbecue flavours and amazing salads. Then I like Som Saa for their deliciously vibrant curries (love the vegetarian ones) and interesting drinks. And also Chez Elles Bistroquet, a brilliant brunch spot, serving home-style French fare and delectable pastries.

You can find Dina’s recipes in her Brick Lane Cookbook (Kitchen Press, £20) and online at dinabegum.co.uk For her online courses go to yodomo.co.

What basic spices should everyone have in their cupboard? Whole spices, which include cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaves, black peppercorns, cloves and cumin. Then for ground spices, definitely turmeric powder, coriander powder, cumin powder, chilli powder, garam masala and paprika.

Where do you recommend people buy their ingredients in East London? Taj Stores on Brick Lane. It’s my go-to grocery store as it always evokes fond memories of when I used to visit there with my dad as a child – it’s an absolute treasure trove of ingredients, a cook’s dream. They have an extensive range of spices, fresh produce, a meat counter, frozen Bangladeshi seafood and even kitchenware.

What dish do you wish everyone would try? Bangladeshi sweets called mishti. They range from mellow, fresh cheese morsels called shondesh to fried, syrup-soaked kalojaam, oblong sweets with a deep brown exterior and vivid red interior. I live for them! Oh, and mishti doi, which is sweet, thick-set yogurt. B

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LOVING LOCAL

East London illustrator Eleanor Crow’s beautiful collection of watercolours is a timely celebration of independent neighbourhood shops that continue to enrich our communities R. E. Robertson, Lea Bridge Road, Walthamstow

E. Pellicci, Bethnal Green Road, Bethnal Green

Ron. E. Robertson opened his bakery shop (opposite) in 1947 and it was run by his son Clive until it closed in 2013. I painted the whole building because I love every detail of this place: the bold typography with its forward- leaning red three-dimensional capital letters on cream glazed panels, the historic Hovis signs, which are visible from afar in vivid green and gold, the cheerful mid-blue of all the painted window frames and pipework, the intricate mosaic of turquoise and yellow tiles under the shop windows through which could be seen heaped shelves of bread and cakes, and the traditional black and white floor tiles.This busy shop was on a main road, visible to all who passed, witnessing the spectacle of bakers and customers going about their daily trade. The ‘No Entry’ sign strikes a poignant note, since its introduction by the council meant that the many loyal customers who commuted this way could no longer turn into the side street and park to buy a loaf or some pastries on their journey between London and Essex.

This small friendly café has been owned by the Pellicci family since 1900. With its appealing facade of chromelined primrose Vitrolite panels, three-dimensional typography and fine decorative detailing, it is a testament to the enduring qualities of thoughtful shop design. The interior features Art Deco marquetry by cabinet maker Achille Cappoci from 1946, and the premises are Grade II listed. Most importantly, the business thrives because the Pellicci family know how to keep their customers happy – whether diehard locals, passing celebrities or tourists on a pilgrimage – with their winning combination of wholesome food, exemplary service and entertaining banter.

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The Butchers Shop, Bethnal Green Road, Bethnal Green

Savoy Café, Graham Road, Hackney

The East London Sausage Company, Orford Road, Walthamstow

When Peter Sargent took over his shop in 1983, there were eight butchers in Bethnal Green but now he is the last one standing. It seemed like Peter might go the way of the rest, until he achieved tabloid fame by placing a sign across the road in front of his shop. Directed at those on their way to the supermarket, it said ‘Have a look in butcher’s opposite before you go in Tesco.’ Peter says that the supermarket threatened legal action, until it was revealed that Tesco had been selling horsemeat and Peter left a bale of hay outside.

Despite beIng closed for years, the Art Deco frontage of the Savoy Café in Hackney was still much admired. The reason so many cafés in London were called ‘Savoy’ was because they were all opened by Italians who had worked in the kitchens at the Savoy hotel. This one was such a rare survival, with its Vitrolite panels and unusual ice-cream serving hatch, that it deserved to be protected. Unfortunately, the current occupiers were permitted to destroy all this historic detailing for the sake of an inferior design. It is a real pity that no-one chose to revive the café in its classic guise, given the popularity of the original frontage.

Mick Norkett has been in butchery for almost fifty years, specialising in sausages. He sells to top restaurants as well as supplying enthusiastic queues of customers at this popular Walthamstow Village location, celebrated for its small shops and cafés. Although his shop has recently closed, Mick continues to work in semi-retirement from his Waltham Abbey wholesale operation.

Shopfronts of London By Eleanor Crow (Published by Batsford in conjunction with Spitalfields Books)

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ILLUSTRATION Â© ELEANOR CROW FROM SHOPFRONTS OF LONDON (BATSFORD/SPITALFIELDS LIFE BOOKS)

Back to the future The UK loves hyper-local food. From the cream teas of the South West to pease pudding in the North East, each comes with its own traditions and a regional fanbase with strong opinions on how it should be eaten. And no more so than East London finds Rachel Healy...

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

ast London is an area blessed with more food options than most. Home to generations of migrant families who shared their cuisine as they settled over the centuries, and with excellent access to fresh seafood, the area is known nationwide for its pie and mash, jellied eels, smoked fish, bagels and more. But long-standing locals know there are certain places to find these treats if you want the authentic experience.

Preserving tradition You can find pie and mash in pubs and chippies around the UK, but East London pie and mash is a little different. The pie itself looks familiar, with golden brown pastry – often puff nowadays, but once suet in some places – and a beef filling. The mash beside it is traditionally scraped onto the plate. But the star of the dish is the bright green liquor – a parsley sauce sometimes made with eel stock and unique to this part of the country. On Walthamstow High Street, L Manze pie and mash shop first opened in 1929 and the menu hasn’t changed much since then. “Pie and mash is probably the first fast food of East London,” says Tim Nicholls who, with his sister Jackie, began running the shop in 1986. “If you’re from East London, you know what pie and mash is – it’s a bit of an institution.” The Walthamstow branch is Grade II listed, with beautiful 1920s tiling setting the scene for lunch. It also gained fame in the past as the favoured pie shop of David Beckham and his mum, Sandra. Everything is made on site to a traditional recipe, Tim explains: “We bone our meat and mince it ourselves. We do everything from start to finish. It’s the closest you’ll get to a wholesome, home-cooked meal, because nothing’s frozen so there’s nothing older than 24 hours. You put salt, pepper and vinegar on it and that’s how you eat it.”

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The dedication to tradition is just as strong at H Forman & Son, a smokehouse in Bow. Harry Forman came to London from Odessa, Russia, during a wave of Jewish immigration in the late 19th century and established the smokehouse in 1905. His great-grandson, Lance, now leads the business using the techniques his ancestor perfected. “We do everything now the way we were doing it 100 years ago,” says Lance. In the late 19th century, many Jewish people in East London shipped in salmon from the Baltic. It would arrive in barrels of saltwater and they would smoke it and sell it in their community. Until, at Billingsgate fish market, they discovered fresh Scottish salmon. “Soon they were smoking the Scottish salmon and the product was amazing,” says Lance. “They started hawking it around and smoked salmon took off as Britain’s first-ever homegrown gourmet food.” While smoked salmon is now ubiquitous on supermarket shelves and brunch menus, Lance explains that it’s a very different product to the traditional fish his smokehouse produces. That’s

a fact now recognised across Europe, as Forman’s London Cure Smoked Salmon was recently awarded protected geographical indication status, alongside products such as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Yorkshire Wensleydale cheese. “We use Scottish salmon that’s never more than two days out of water,” explains Lance. “We hand-fillet it and then salt it for 24 hours. There should never be any other ingredients. Just salt.” After the salting, which dries the fish out, it goes in the kilns for up to 24 hours. Most of that time is for air drying, transforming the fish’s flesh from wet

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to sticky, ready for the smoke to latch on and create a seal. Crucially, the smoke should be used to preserve the flavour of the fresh fish, never mask it. “So much smoked salmon nowadays is terrible,” says Lance. “It’s mass produced, it’s slimy, it’s too smoky. We just carried on doing things in our very old-fashioned way. We found ourselves in a world where people are really interested in traditional food methods and provenance. It’s more luck than strategy, but the product tastes 1,000 times better.” Over at Sweetings, a restaurant that’s been on Queen Victoria Street in Mansion House for more than 100 years, fresh fish is also a priority. The business began

'WE FOUND OURSELVES IN A WORLD WHERE PEOPLE ARE REALLY INTERESTED IN TRADITIONAL FOOD METHODS AND PROVENANCE' LANCE FORMAN, H FORMAN & SON

as John S Sweeting Fish and Oyster Merchant on Lad Lane, Islington, back in 1830. Now, it’s a city institution, which opens only on weekday lunchtimes and serves up quality seafood supplied by current owner Richard Barfoot, also the proprietor of Barfoot Ltd, a family-run fish business. Alongside the smoked fish, potted shrimps and scallops and bacon starters, specialities include Sweetings fish pie, lobster thermidor and your choice of fried, grilled or poached fillets of the day’s catch. The restaurant is also famed for its suavely named ‘black velvet’ drink – a combination of Guinness and champagne. As with Walthamstow’s L Manze, part of the charm of dining at Sweetings is its location. The Grade II-listed Albert Sweetings scallops and bacon to start and below, the lunchtime crowd

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Buildings were erected in 1871, giving customers a glimpse of London’s past.

Keeping pace While tradition is important, it’s impossible to ignore the transformation London has undergone in the past century. It’s led to an East London food scene where decades-old dishes sit comfortably alongside brunch cafés and high-end dining. Shoreditch now glitters with Michelin stars at Clove Club, Lyle’s,

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'WHATEVER YOU DO, THERE ARE VERY FEW BUSINESSES THAT STAY THE SAME FOR OVER 50 YEARS'

L Manze – by day a pie and mash shop, by night The Jellied Eel bar

PHILIP INZANI, POLO BAR

Leroy, Brat and Mãos, and food markets such as Broadway and Spitalfields prove a draw for both tourists and locals. At Polo Bar, directly opposite the entrance to Liverpool Street Station, a healthy combination of evolution and tradition has helped business thrive. In 1953, Italian immigrant Bruna Inzani opened a café with her husband. She called it Marco Polo. “It was a workman’s caff,” says her nephew and current proprietor Philip Inzani. “They did braised and steamed puddings, steak and kidney, and so on. Tastes have moved on slightly, but the basics are the same – we still do our breakfast and bacon sandwiches. We are still a caff and that’s the way I want it to stay, but I think we’ve smartened up.” Whereas once East London was filled with independent cafés, often run by families, serving breakfasts and sandwiches, now many of them are chains. Marco Polo is one of the few remaining caffs in a sea of Prets and Costas. Since Philip took over in 2012, there’ve been some changes. The establishment is now known as Polo Bar, it’s expanded from one to three floors and it’s open 24 hours a day, almost every day of the year. “Whatever you do, there are very few businesses that stay the same over 50 years,” Philip says. “We’re still serving egg and bacon, but now it’s free-range egg and it’s dry-cured bacon.” Polo Bar’s biggest-selling item is still

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the English breakfast, but alongside this, replacing the steak and kidney pies of Bruna’s era, you can now order Instagrammable pancake stacks and homemade burgers. Whatever the dish, Philip is committed to keeping things local where possible. Meat comes from a supplier at Smithfield Market, while beers are from Hackney’s Redchurch Brewery and Camden Town Brewery. Adding booze to the mix has also helped L Manze find more customers. When the final pies of the day have been served on a Friday and Saturday, the shop transforms into The Jellied Eel, a cocktail

bar run by Charlie Westover and Paul Jellis. “It was another way of trying to get new people coming into the area that don’t know of pie and mash,” Tim explains. “If they come here for the cocktail bar, they’ll come back during the day and maybe try us.” The customer base of Forman’s, like its smoking technique, has remained steady. “Roughly half of what we do goes into hotels, restaurants and caterers, while the other half goes into food stores, but it’s always been about 50:50,” says Lance. Forman’s did start exporting its salmon about 50 years ago and now sells fish in the US, Europe, Hong Kong and mainland China. This is one of very few changes in the company’s long history,

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H Forman & Sons – then and now

alongside opening a deli and bringing in one innovation to improve the way they make their smoke. Many modern smokehouses use a liquid smoke spray – a method Lance and team reject – but those that do use proper smoke create it by burning sawdust. Around 12 years ago, Forman’s swapped to solid oak logs, which are put in a metal vice and spun. Friction creates smoke, the levels of which can be controlled: “That’s really important because we don’t want a lot of smoke, we want to be delicate,” says Lance. The process also uses a quarter of the wood – welcome news for the environment. “We are not afraid to modernise and innovate as long as we’re not compromising the quality of the product,” comments Lance.

Family matters Honouring tradition has been made much easier by keeping Forman’s in the family. “Family businesses are unique animals,” says Lance. With CEOs of corporate companies taking on the role for short stints – as little as five years – Lance says their strategies try to maximise profit quickly, with little care for the long-term future of the company and its customers. “Family businesses think more in terms of, ‘How am I going to keep this business going until the next generation?’ It’s a much more sustainable way of doing

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'THE PEOPLE WHO EAT THIS PIE AND MASH, THEY KNOW PIE AND MASH. SO WE MAKE SURE TO DO IT PROPERLY' TIM NICHOLLS, L MANZE

things,” Lance says. It’s a similar picture at Polo Bar. “My wife does the book-keeping and my children come down and work when they need a few quid,” says Philip. “It’s what sets you apart from the chains… you can give that personal, family attention.” Eight members of Philip’s staff have also followed him to Polo Bar from previous jobs. “For me, the people working here are very important,” he says. Customers feel like part of the family too: “We’ve got a few people coming in for the social aspect, rather than just for the food, because they maybe have not got family or anything like that. It’s quite important for us to get to know them.” One man comes in with his PA every morning for toast, another woman drops by for a hot chocolate every

night. From bankers to newspaper sellers, local retirees to fashion students, the café welcomes all. Back in Walthamstow, although the shop bears the name of London’s famous Manze pie family, they stopped running this branch in 1970. Tim Nicholls took over from another Manze – no relation – Carmella, who had worked at the shop since she was 16, finally retiring when she turned 69. “We took it over in 1986 and we haven’t changed anything,” Tim says. “The people who eat this pie and mash, they know pie and mash. So we make sure to do it properly.” B

6 of the best

eco swaps

While the climate crisis can feel overwhelming, often it helps to take it back to the home front and start by supporting companies with integrity. Tim Keaveney, co-founder of new East London-based eco-brand Homethings, offers his advice for a greener future

EMBRACE UGLY VEG

If food waste were a country, it would be the third biggest carbon emitter behind the US and China. Luckily, London-based Oddbox has arrived, not only helping us hit our seven-a-day, but fighting too for all the curvy cucumbers and knobbly carrots that most supermarkets would rather send to landfill. oddbox.co.uk

PICNIC WITH PURPOSE

Plotting a romantic Valentine’s picnic? Or just fancy stocking your cupboards and fridge with sustainable sustenance? You can’t go wrong with this zero-waste power couple: Toast Ale and Rubies in the Rubble. Both brands are pioneers in upcycling waste products to give them a second and even more delicious life. Rubies Tomato Ketchup is a modern classic made with rescued tomatoes and pears, while Toast’s ale is made from surplus bread and is, quite literally, the best thing since the sliced stuff. rubiesintherubble.com; toastale.com

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WASH IT WELL

(but not too often) Who knew that the average load of washing in the UK could be shedding up to 700,000 micro fibres and plastics that end up in our waterways? Synthetic materials such as acrylic and polyester are the worst offenders. So while I’d never encourage soap dodging, washing your clothes less regularly and only when they’re dirty as opposed to once you’ve worn them could have a big impact. Buy a Guppyfriend washing bag online – these reusable clothes bags help you catch a lot of those nasty micro fibres, stopping them from entering our waterways. en.guppyfriend.com

PLASTIC-FREE CHORES

Cleaning products are 90% water, encased in a single-use plastic bottle. Which is why my new company, Homethings, helps make sense of that with long-life bottles which can be refilled with just tap water and a non-toxic eco-tablet. We make your household cleaning not only lower impact but

convenient too. We’re hoping to save millions of plastic bottles from landfills and oceans – for good. gethomethings.com

WASTE NOT WANT NOT

Shake up your breakfast, lunch or dinner routine with TooGoodToGo – an app that allows you to collect food from restaurants or cafés that otherwise would have gone in the bin. So you can tuck into a wild array of different cuisines and dishes from around the city – and all at a fraction of the cost. Join their community of ‘waste warriors’ by downloading the app today. Slap-up breakfast at Ibis World

Whitechapel hotel anyone? toogoodtogo.co.uk/en-gb

FAREWELL FAST FASHION

When someone asks where your jacket is from, is there anything more satisfying than being able to say it’s actually a one-off that can’t be bought? Or what about the joy of being able to wear something you simply couldn’t afford to buy? Not to mention the net effect on our collective carbon footprint of us all renting clothes or buying secondhand. Try Onloan for renting and Depop for your secondhand fashion picks. onloan.co; depop.com

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

You are what you eat

Founder of Salty Studio in East London, Maud de Rohan Willner creates mulitisensory food experiences and explores innovative ways to eat. She shares one of her low-waste, high pleasure creations

Zero waste dessert FOR THE ICE CREAM Leftover sourdough bread (one thick slice) 375ml double cream 625ml whole milk Splash of vanilla essence Dried avocado seed l

TO MAKE THE MERINGUE 200g egg whites 500g granulated sugar l

1 Take some leftover sourdough bread and pop it under the grill for 5-10 mins until it’s nice and crispy. 2 Combine the cream and milk, heat up in a pan. Then drop the bread into the mixture, letting it soak for 20 mins on a low heat. Using a hand-held blender whizz up the bread and cream and then place the mix in the fridge overnight. 3 Slowly pour the mixture into your ice cream churner until it has a thick and creamy texture. FOR THE BURNT CORN HUSK POWDER Corn husks of 3 cobs (you can find these in organic vegetable stores or souschef.co.uk for ready dried) 1 Peel off the green husks from your corn. Place them on a tray lined with baking paper and put in the oven at 200°C/390°F. Every 15 mins open the oven door to let out some of the steam and smoke. Bake until the husks have become dark brown, this might take a whole hour depending on the heat of your oven. 2 Using a spice grinder, blitz the burnt corn husks until they become a powder. (You can save the powder in a glass jar, it will keep for months)

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1 Preheat the oven to 90°C/195°F. Fill a saucepan with water and let the water come to a low boil. 2 Place a bowl with the egg whites and sugar over the boiling water and constantly whisk the mixture. The egg whites and sugar should loosen up and the sugar will dissolve. As soon as a ‘syrup’ is formed, remove from heat. 3 Whip the mixture until a fluffy white meringue has formed. The bowl will be cool to the touch and the meringue should have fairly stiff peaks. 4 Add the burnt corn husk powder to the meringue mix. Spread the mixture onto a lined baking tray in a thin layer. Bake for 50mins until cooked thoroughly. Leave to cool and break the meringue into shards.

To serve this dish, place one scoop of ice cream together with some burnt corn husk powder meringue shards, and grate a dried avocado seed to decorate. @saltystudiouk saltystudio.co.uk

Renegade wine

rocks Leonie Helm talks to plonk pioneer Warwick Smith, founder of Renegade Urban Winery, the Bethnal Green winery throwing the rule book in the bin

T Happy customers

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urn the corner at the Salmon and Ball, then slip down an alley way filled with mattresses and cabinets, keep going a couple of met res and you ’l l find Renegade Urban Winery. Hot on the heels of a boom in craft beer in the UK and East London comes a reawakening in wine, and we have Renegade to thank for that. Its founder Warwick Smith is unashamedly going all out to start a wine revolution and one that’s accessible to all. Their unique branding includes wrapping their wines in images of people’s faces, specifically their eyes. Renegade call it their ‘label art’ and anyone can contact them to be featured and have a wine named after them. ‘Jamie’, for example, a sparkling white made from Bacchus grapes, is named after a hairdresser; while ‘Mark’ is a clean, fresh white made from Riesling grapes, “but a little more funky”, says Warwick. And

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#EastLondonFoodHeroes

‘Ana’ is a zingy orange wine, named after a girl from Lewisham who works in fraud prevention for a well-known fashion and lifestyle brand. “We’re not doing things in the same way as wine has been made before,” says Warwick, “so there’s no reputation to uphold, no stigma, no expectation. We can do what we want.” Renegade is the only winery in the UK to make wine with not only English grapes, but fresh grapes grown outside the UK, imported from Germany, France, Italy, Spain and Portugal. “There simply isn’t the quality and variety available in the UK for all the wines we want to make. We’re a small country with a very small vineyard industry, and we don’t have the climate for every grape variety,” says Warwick. With this selling point in mind, Renegade is keen to get to the bottom of a rumour doing the rounds, which could potentially have a significant impact on their maverick business. “We’re currently lobbying Neil Coyle, the MP for Bermondsey and Old Southwark, in a bid to get to the bottom of a rumour that once Brexit is done, UK wine producers won’t be able to import grapes from outside the UK,” explains Warwick. “We’ll have to wait and see. It was probably just a thought that gained traction, but we probably need to make sure!”. So why under a railway arch in Bethnal Green? “To be honest, we just needed a place quickly and this arch was the right place at the right time. It’s worked out really well though – it’s great to be in this community and near so many great local businesses.” Although Renegade’s footprint is

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‘WE’RE BREAKING THE MOULD IN THE WAY WINE HAS BEEN TRADITIONALLY MADE, SO THAT THERE’S NO REPUTATION TO UPHOLD, NO STIGMA, NO EXPECTATION. WE CAN DO WHAT WE WANT’

small, it’s where the magic happens and the wine-making process takes place. The grapes are pressed on the premises then aged and bottled – all under that small railway arch with trains rumbling overhead from Hoxton to Whitechapel. There are tanks, barrels and the bottling machine all tucked away in this cosy limited space and when the winery isn’t operating as a full-blown production line, it’s

open to the public from Wednesday to Sunday as a wine bar. “We know our wine isn’t cheap,” a d m i t s W a r w i c k , “ b u t i t ’s n o t expensive either. We also understand that London is expensive, life is expensive, so we’ve tried to keep our products as accessible as possible.” In fact, their website sums their ethos up perfectly: “Premium wines, made with love in London.” In this modern age, people are moving towards drinking less, but drinking better, and Renegade is the perfect product for that mindset. Their wines are affordable by the glass and bottles go for about £24 online to buy – arguably a reasonable price for a special bottle of wine with an interesting back story. “Craft beer does it, so why can’t we?” asks Warwick. “We’re simply breaking the rules, one bottle at a time.” B Renegade Urban Winery & Bar, Arch 12 Gales Gardens, E2 0EJ renegadelondonwine.com, @renegadeurbanwinery

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EAT S

Days are getting brighter, evenings lighter, and what better way to spend them than sharing good food with good people

WILDER

as we know it), and fresh meaty oysters with elderflower are both conversation starters in their own right. Sometimes, the best things in life aren’t obvious – or widely Wilder seem to do everything right: incredibly fresh talked about. This is certainly the case with Wilder – the ingredients, sourced from independent and small scale not-long-open bar and restaurant that sits below Boundary suppliers across the British Isles, brought together in London in Shoreditch. As of yet, it hasn’t received much interesting combinations and served by gregarious staff who attention amongst the chattering classes, though this will were warm, knowledgeable and generous with their insights. undoubtedly change soon. It almost felt more like dinner at a friend’s house. From the moment you wind your way down the stairs to The menu constantly evolves in line with the shifting its high-ceilinged basement space, you feel welcome – like seasons in order to showcase the best produce available, this is exactly where you are meant to be. It’s minimalist with current dishes (at the time of visiting) including: but warm, dimly-lit yet vibrant – and the perfect spot to venison, beets, elderberries, rye, Longhorn beef, smoked meet for after work drinks or, in our case, onion, and tongue, parsley root and to settle before dinner in the restaurant. SUCH SEAMLESS, sorrel. Not to mention a superb veggie Intimate alcoves would also make a cosy option to delight even the most meatARTFUL WAYS hideaway for a romantic date night. OF TWIRLING UP minded: salsify, barbequed potatoes, Champagne Rhubarb Gimlets, made with yeast, garlic mustard leaf. UNEXPECTED East London Liquor Company’s local crafted Chef Richard McLellan and his team TREATS gin, were light, heavenly and just the way combine the various seasonal produce in to kick things off. While their bespoke non-alcoholic such seamless, artful ways, twirling up unexpected treats concoctions were as interesting as delicious. Make sure to such as pig's head, beremeal toast and walnuts (as umamiaccompany your drinks with their well-crafted bar snacks laden as it sounds). Fallow deer with parsnip, kohlrabi — signature seeded crackers with pease pudding (but not and pine and mallard served with swede, curly kale and hemp both arrived like a canvas of modern art, each with a masterpiece of tastes to match the aesthetics. As for dessert, how does Jerusalem artichoke, hazelnut, chicory coffee and chocolate dessert sound? Unusual, yes, but also earthy, rich and dangerously moreish. If you're after something a little brighter and palate-cleansing, then the Yorkshire rhubarb, white chocolate and buttermilk is the next best thing. Everything on the menu is a celebration of our country's abundant, varied landscapes — the ‘woods, meadows and coastlines’ as they put it themselves. And all of this brought together in an urban basement in East London. Best of British never felt so cool. wilderlondon.co.uk

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REVIEW: NICKY ACKETTS

2-4 BOUNDARY STREET, E2 7DD

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WESTLAND COFFEE & WINE What’s not to like about this independent, rustically cool wine and coffee bar that attracts city types, creatives and locals alike? There’s always a steady stream in for breakfast, coffee and pastries, then come lunchtime don’t be surprised to find a queue out the door as everyone piles in for their favourite soup, salad or gourmet sandwich. Try New York pastrami with Monterey

Jack cheese, sweet mustard and spinach, or chicken avocado with spinach and lime, two of their biggest sellers. Or how about a selection of charcuterie and artisan cheeses (try British blue cheese The Duke), accompanied by apple and rhubarb chutney and the must-have, slow-roasted, caramelised black figs, all served with daily-fresh artisan bread. But what is really special about Westland is the super-friendly welcome from Irish host and ‘mother hen’ Joan – even if you’re on your own, working or just hanging out, you’ll soon feel like one of the gang. And expect Labradoodle Maggie to wander in and demand some attention. Westland is open six days a week until 10pm when you might want to swap the best coconut flat white in town for one of

Westland’s sophisticated wines, such as the Cascina Ballarin Langhe Nebbiolo or the very drinkable Tarabilla house. All told, a unique combination of coffee shop, wine bar and downstairs meetings and events space with a liberal sprinkling of community feel. westlandcoffee.co.uk

THE FROG HOXTON

REVIEW: LARA MILLS

45-47 HOXTON SQUARE, HACKNEY, N1 6PD

The Frog has made its name with rotating sustainable menus and a strongly organic and biodynamic wine list. It's a minimal-waste ethos straight from founder and chef Adam Handling; and one that means even the bar snacks are made from what other kitchens would throw away. This sharp emphasis on zero waste and sustainable produce combined with great wines and craft beers has established The Frog as a dining destination that is as beautifully modest as it is theatrical. And then there's how it all tastes. Quirky menu options include the infamous cheese doughnuts and Handling's signature celeriac, yolk, apple, dates. The wines are original and consistently excellent, including a leftfield Slovenian bottle and a jaw-dropping Kiwi dessert wine. There's an Asian influence to lots of the dishes that keeps the intrigue up. Crisps made from nori and tapioca are super-crunchy snacks, yakiniku flavours cut through deliciously earthy duck and beetroot, and floral jasmine underpinned a seriously good pear dessert. For optimum pleasure and minimum guilt, you can't do better. thefroghoxton.com

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REVIEW: JANE GAZZARD

1 WESTLAND PLACE, HOXTON, N1 7LP

DRAUGHTS 41 KINGSLAND HIGH STREET, DALSTON, E8 2JS

WITH WALLS LINED WITH OVER 1,000 GAMES, THIS VAST SPACE IS AN ODE TO THE ART OF SCREEN-FREE JOY

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It’s once you venture to the back rooms though that the fun really begins. With walls lined with over 1,000 games, this vast space is an ode to the art of screenfree joy. From hard-core strategy games to 1990s classics (fancy a game of Frustration anyone?) to highstakes games such as, well, Jenga, there’s something for all manners and minds. Knowledgable staff circulate ready to offer recommendations and teach you the rules too. Is there a better way to spend an evening? Just make sure to order yourself an espresso martini to see you through your game of Monopoly. draughtslondon.com

REVIEW: EMMA WINTERSCHLADEN

Number 41 Kingsland High Street has a vibrant, varied past. Since 1910, it was home to F Cooke’s ‘live eel’ pie and mash shop — just one of the family-run East London dynasties. It then served a 30-year stint as dim sum restaurant Shanghai before closing in 2017. Today, the Tardis-like Grade II-listed building has been transformed into none other than a board games café and bar. The front of the shop is a celebration of its past, with F Cooke's original sign still hanging high above the door. Inside, bright white, cream and turquoise tiles over a century old adorn the walls, along with Artdeco-style mirrors. The bar is marble topped and the booths cosy and wooden benched. Better still, pie and mash remains on the menu (although you won’t find any eel here, just a hearty steak and ale, and a veggie-friendly mushroom, leek and potato). The rest of the menu is simple, feel-good food – often the sloppy, crispy, fried sort that calls for a beer to wash it down (lucky then there’s a long list of draughts and ales available). It’s also the sort of menu you have to make a feast of, ideally with a big group of friends. Include in your feast the cod, mango, lime, chilli tacos; a crispy fried buffalo chicken burger with blue cheese sauce; vegan fajitas, and lobster mac and cheese, and — perhaps most importantly — the halloumi fries, of which we ordered three portions, one after the other.

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CRISPIN PAVILION ON THE CORNER, WHITE’S ROW, E1 7NF

REVIEW: OLIVER POOLE

31-33 THROGMORTON STREET, EC2N 2AT

Born out of the spirit of adventure, this intimate Peruvian paradise, situated just minutes from Bank station, invites a full immersion into the colourful cuisine known as ‘the original fusion food’, due to its Japanese, Chinese and Spanish influences. Just one reason why COYA Angel Court entices all true foodies searching for a new experience to tingle their tastebuds. The restaurant’s exotic and swanky identity – with its vibrant wallpaper, patterned pillows and lively jazz and reggae-like vibes – creates a carefree atmosphere that will have you hooked straightaway. Not to mention its stunning cocktail bar. This is a place with a soul, just as suited to a special date as to a large-scale celebration, and menu must-haves include tortilla chips and guacamole – the waitress smashing up two perfect avocados in front of your eyes – washed down with pisco sours. Pisco is a white brandy made from fermented grapes, with fresh lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white, and available with a choice of ‘infusion’ options. Recommended also are the ceviche, Atún Nikkei (yellowfin tuna), Hiramasa (kingfish) and Arroz Nikkei – sea bass, rice, lime and chilli served on homely pottery. Tailored for the financial liberalism of the city worker and natural curiosity of any serious bon vivant, this is a deluxe experience with COYA voted one of ‘London’s best brunches’ by Vogue. Certainly worth a visit. coyarestaurant.com

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REVIEW: GEMMA WARDLE

COYA ANGEL COURT

Just a stone's throw away from Spitalfields market, Crispin is housed in a sleek and distinctive modern building – yet in stark contrast to the exterior, the inside is warm and inviting and feels intimate. The menu changes weekly, making the most of seasonal and sustainable ingredients. We recommend the seven-course menu for two which is a steal at only £60. Sourdough from Dusty Knuckle and butter from the Netherlands along with a sensationally creamy burrata is a good way to start. The set menu includes four different starters to enjoy after the burrata. One of our favourites was the Celeriac Fondant with Verjus and Truffle. The shaved truffle on top of the crispy celeriac cake was a delight and the jus just added even more truffley goodness. The monkfish stood out, wrapped in parma ham and served with tartare sauce and a light and refreshing dill oil. It was hard to choose – pork collar or gnocchi, we opted for the latter, beautifully served in a mushroom consommé and topped with Parmesan crisps. To finish the plum and ginger ice cream was flavourful yet light and refreshing at the same time, accompanied with a glass of port at the sommelier’s recommendation. Good shout. crispinlondon.com

planthub Plant-based

Gluten-free

Organic Restaurant & Natural Wine Bar

planthub.net 217 Mare Street, London E8 3QE

Hackney

BEERSHOP 56 B E A S T

TA P R O O M

B R E W E RY

289 Hackney Road, London E2 8NA www.craftndraft.beer

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HAPPY NEW BEER!

BREW CLUB REVIEW: MARK ACKETTS. PHOTOGRAPHY: KEVIN CASTLE

ARCHES 7-8 BOHEMIA PLACE, E8 1DU

Set underneath the arches, Brew Club is just a few steps from Hackney Central station. Quite handy really as what will follow makes driving completely out of the question. So what exactly are we doing here on a perfectly good Saturday morning? We are meeting Ian, who is going to guide us through brewing our very own 20 litres of American Pale Ale. This is a million miles from traditional home-brew kits. There are two rows of computer controlled equipment which use the raw ingredients – malted barley and hops. Far from a 'lads' day out, there are eight brewing sets attended by eight couples, eager to get started. An affable character, Ian is quick, clear and efficient. We are soon weighing and mixing a giant porridge. Once the mash is beastmag.co.uk

mashing, we retire to the bar for a lecture and… a beer. This is so laid-back and relaxed. Ian balances the right amount of info with a delightful amount of science. No rest for the wicked, we return to the brewery for a bit of sparging. Before we know it, there is a break for lunch. Plenty of time to explore a couple more micro-breweries under the arches. Then it’s back to the toil, I mean bring the mash to the boil – hic! Then we decant the whole lot into a large white bucket and put it in a room to ferment for a couple of weeks. There’s nothing else for it. Back to the bar. It’s attracted a few regular punters now and the free arcade game’s getting some wear-and-tear. That’s when we found out the first rule of Brew Club. Make sure you can come back in two weeks to bottle your beer and take it home. We can’t wait. B brewclub.uk.com BEAST

10 TOP

Bakeries of East London With some of the best bakeries lurking within pretty much every nook of East London, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re bound to find somewhere you can indulge says Emilie Wade. Head to our top picks and stock up on bountiful bakes

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POPHAMS

1 LONDON FIELDS

BEIGEL BAKE

8 BRICK LANE

Pophams' pastries

With a site in Islington and a newly opened sun-lit filled space in London Fields Pophams' pastry offering is ever-growing. Be sure to pick up their custard-filled variant topped with roasted fruit, or for even more carbs head to their Hackney pasta evenings on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

An iconic bagel, not one to miss if you frequent Brick Lane or are just passing through. Queues are expected but worth the wait to see umpteen fresh bagels dispensed daily. Add fillings as you desire and enjoy while ambling the cobbled streets of Brick Lane and beyond. Oh, and they are open 24/7!

FABRIQUE BAKERY

2 HOXTON

RINKOFF BAKERY

9 STEPNEY GREEN

Hailing from Stockholm, Sweden, Fabrique sits quietly under the railway arches of bustling Hoxton Overground. Serving up cinnamon buns and rye bread a plenty, it will be difficult to leave empty handed with all on offer.

PAVILION BAKERY

BROADWAY MARKET With three sites in London an now one down in Newquay, Cornwall, Pavilion Bakery is close to home. Pick up some of the best morning pain au chocolat, all washed down with their signature flat white.

DUSTY KNUCKLE

5 BAKERY DALSTON

Tucked away off Dalston’s hectic streets, Dusty Knuckle offers up sandwiches with quite the reputation. Not your average sarnie, their focaccia is made every morning and houses their insanely good fillings.

An affable spot that exudes calm, you won’t want to leave once you sit yourself down. Their signature sourdough and daily-changing pastries arrive out the oven each morning and don’t stick around. Their blood orange Danish is one to savour.

THE BREAD STATION

7 LONDON FIELDS

E5 BAKEHOUSE

4 LONDON FIELDS

Showcasing the best of Scandinavian baking in the heart of East London. Their organic fermented bread recipes are perfected over 10 years. Have your fill with simple breakfast staples and don’t leave without one of their traditional poppy seedtopped Tebirkes.

A vast iron-clad space in the railway arches of London Fields, with a rustic and earthy interior, they certainly let their loaves do the talking. Watch the bakers create all that’s on offer, from Danishstyle rye bread to dark chocolate, rye and sea salt cookies. Drool. E5 Bakehouse

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JOLENE

6 NEWINGTON GREEN

They've made customers salivate since 1911. Sitting on the corner just off Jubliee Street, Rinkoff offers the perfect mixture of modern sweets and timeless classic. They are renowned for their towering cronuts with tempting fillings. Lily Vanilli's deep-filled caramel cookies

LILY VANILLI

10 COLUMBIA ROAD

Self-taught baker Lily Jones is a cake-making queen, and she doesn’t stop there. Her space, in the quietest of courtyards suddenly becomes a bustling pastry paradise once she opens the doors. Go for a scrumptious sausage roll if you’re the savoury type or grab a vegan deep-filled caramel cookie. B

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STAY EAST

From creative networking to cracking cocktails, home-style food to maximalist nostalgia – there’s more to these boutique hotels than a comfy bed

REVIEW: EMMA WINTERSCHLADEN

THE HOXTON , Shoreditch

BOUTIQUE

On the scene since 2006, The Hoxton – a member of the Ennismore group, which boasts outposts in many of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods such as Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and Downtown LA – has established itself as a trendy, urban homefrom-home for visiting creatives. At its heart is a philosophy that welcomes both guests and locals to a beautifully curated space, replete with books, local art and bespoke interiors. Walking into its exposed brickwork lobby, it feels straight out of an East London Pinterest board. Plush velvet sofas and armchairs sit under industrial-style lighting, ornate stone fireplaces opposite a tiled coffee bar. Crucially, it’s always full of people – some alone it’s also a cultural hub in the evening with a jamon their laptops, others huddled in animated groups, packed, year-round schedule of events – think confabbing over flat whites and pastries. mindful candle making, hangover yoga, flower power That’s because The Hox, as it’s affectionately workshops and the ultimate trio of known, is not just a bolthole for ‘hustlin’, paintin’ and drinkin’. And visitors (both tourists and business NOT JUST A types), but it’s also embedded in BOLTHOLE, IT’S ALSO when you’ve filled up your creativity bank, the area’s nightlife is just a hop the local freelance community. With EMBEDDED IN THE and skip away, with dance floors and facilities to compete with many paid LOCAL FREELANCE bars waiting for you with open arms. members’ clubs – roaring fires, ample COMMUNITY Rooms vary in size — from comfy seating space, plug sockets shoebox to roomy, to a few concept rooms which are galore and artisanal coffee – it’s earned its position designed by local artists. The bedrooms are laidas the go-to hot-desking spot of many of the area’s back, pared-back chic, with thoughtful touches and a creatives. They also offer a meeting and events space, distinctly designer feel. There’s a mini bar with fresh The Apartment, for meetings with a difference. milk and water, a daily breakfast bag and super-fast For all-day dining, there’s The Hoxton Grill – an Wi-Fi. The result is a space that feels so much more American-inspired diner serving avo toast in the than a hotel, because it is. It’s a culture in itself morning, innovative cocktails in the evening and – yes, a place to eat, drink and sleep, but also to everything in between. For balmier days, there’s a connect, concentrate and create. B courtyard area with a retractable roof – home to drink Rooms start from £99 a night. tastings, film screenings and al fresco lunches. The Hoxton, 81 Great Eastern Street, EC2A 3HU However, The Hox isn’t just good for daytime thehoxton.com worker bees, coffee catch-ups and leisurely lunches, BEAST

STAY EAST BUDGET

MAMA SHELTER, Hackney A stay at Mama Shelter is, true to its name, rather like coming home to your mum – especially if Mum is a collector of all things kitsch and your home a flamboyant ode to the 1970s. In fact, maximalism abounds the moment you walk through its doors – think open fires, sumptuous sofas and trinkets galore, patterned plates and hanging plants. Founded in Paris 10 years ago, this boutique hotel chain has grown exponentially, with Mama Shelters popping up across the world – all offering a similar feel-good energy and playful design, but with the personality of each unique location very much apparent. The bedrooms feel familiar, with echoes of childhood woven effortlessly into the decor – with mirrors with lipstick-style messages

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scribbled on them and a pine seating area. The beds boast comfy, five-star bedding and the bathrooms a full-on power shower that’s a real treat when making the most of Mama’s own organic skin range. Downstairs is where you’ll probably want to spend most of your time though, in the bustling,

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REVIEW: EMMA WINTERSCHLADEN

THE BEDROOMS FEEL FAMILIAR, WITH ECHOES OF CHILDHOOD WOVEN EFFORTLESSLY INTO THE DECOR

cushy, cluttered-but-chic living and dining room. Eighties cartoons play silently on TV screens and the room glows with fabulous, fringed lampshades. As for the food, think topnotch and home-cooked, with starters ranging from salt-baked autumn vegetables with cumin spiced hummus and crispy chickpeas, to burrata with beetroot tartare and roasted hazelnut dressing. All are served artistically in the ambient, lively cosiness of Mama’s living and dining room. Mains are more homely, ranging from comfort food classics such as beef burger with pickles, fish ’n’ chips and an East London favourite – pie, mash and liquor (braised lamb shoulder with smoked eel sauce no less). But if posh takeaway is more to your taste, opt for one of their

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kebabs – such as chicken za’atar with heritage tomatoes, pickled cucumber and harissa yogurt – or a pizza, like the truffle ricotta with mushrooms and Amalfi lemons. Just be sure to order a side of mac ’n’ cheese and a Mama-lade cocktail – a delightful concoction of East London Liquor Company gin and spiced marmalade. Once you’re well fed, ease into the evening – be it with a game of giant twister or a karaoke session downstairs in one of the Japanese-style interactive games rooms, complete with pinball machines and retro video games. Nostalgia has never been so much fun – and readily available – in the heart of East London. B Rooms from £79 a night. Mama Shelter, 419-437 Hackney Road, E2 8PP mamashelter.com

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Cheesy nights

The hills are alive at Newington Green's culinary hub, Jumi Cheese where nights are cosy, carby and a whole lot of fun

WORDS BY EMILIE WADE

Take one step inside Jumi Cheese opposite leafy Newington Green and you immediately feel immersed in alpine magic, but there are no slopes in sight. The space embodies that ‘après ski’ feeling, without having to clad yourself in ski gear and face that toe-curling chill. The artisan Swiss cheese maker made its journey from Switzerland to London with an initial stall at the affable and bustling Borough Market. Now they have headed north with their wares and made their mark in the ever-popular culinary hub of Newington Green. Not only are they fantastic at cheese, but their Swiss Zopf bread is renowned for its soft, tender crumb and fantastic flavour. Zopf or Züpfe is similar to that of a French-style brioche but with a little less butter – lending itself to both savoury and sweet accompaniments. Be quick to pick up one of these drool-worthy loaves though, they practically run out the door when the smell of their freshly baked butteriness wafts around the neighbourhood. Additions to Jumi’s Swiss specialities are updated on the regular menu. Choose from nutty Schlossberger cheese to go alongside their aforementioned Zopf or dare to try their Blue Brain cheese, which is one for the more adventurous of us cheese-loving folk. Pair with their fruity and generously tangy apricot chutney which shouldn’t go amiss. Now, if alpine etiquette is your cup of glühwein then you might want to listen to this next bit. Jumi Cheese transforms itself into a cosy chalet-cum-eatery from September to May on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays when Jumi is set for a night of cheese-filled fun. Choose from either fondue or raclette to showcase their offerings; ‘Cheesy nights’ is the name, and it really is a thing of dairy-based dreams. Grill each slice of their authentic Swiss raclette which varies in flavours, from truffle to chilli, pink peppercorn to smoked. With bottomless pickles, Zopf and boiled new potatoes on offer to accompany all that cheese, you can have your fill until you are positively stuffed. Grab a group or dine with a partner and have a night that will leave you singing Yodel-Ay-Hee-Hoo all the way home. B 56 Newington Green, N16 9PX @Jumi_n16

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LAST BUT NOT LEAST

THE WICKERS CHARITY The Wickers Charity is on a mission to stem the surge in gang and knife-related crime by creating brighter futures for the youth of East London Born-and-bred East Londoner and property developer Henry Smith founded The Wickers Charity after experiencing the devastating effects of knife crime first hand. Twenty years ago James Mesher, his brother-in-law, was fatally stabbed outside a Stratford takeaway. The charity aims to tackle knife crime by providing local kids with community, mentorship and learning opportunities that they may never otherwise have had access to. Setting its sights on those aged eight to 18, they’ve been hosting life-changing classes and workshops from their Hackney Wick Hub since 2018. As well as having a laugh with others, The Wicker’s workshops place an emphasis on providing positive role models and boosting employability.

The team recognise that every child is unique and strive to be flexible to each young person’s needs and ambitions for the future. From boxing to graphic design, nutrition to music production, they aim to facilitate any class that will help young Eastenders fulfil their potential. “Now is the time to really come together and help our youth at risk,” says Henry. “We aim to provide them with all the assistance needed to improve their confidence, skills and get employed but most importantly to distract them from drifting into knife crime and gang life.” B Head to wickers.org.uk to donate or volunteer your time. Follow @thewickerscharity on Instagram for updates.

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WORDS: ELLIE SMITH

Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan meets some of the children at The Wickers

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