Encourage clients to adopt a healthy scalp regimen to help them achieve their hair goals.

Caring for the skin on our scalp is often an overlooked area of skin and hair care. Clients experiencing redness, itching, dry and flaky scalps can be common and despite a rising interest in this area, these are conditions that many may not consider a priority when it comes to self-care.

Just as skin specialists are concerned about the health of the skin barrier on the face and body, hair professionals should be aware of promoting the well-being of the skin on the scalp.

“Like your skin, your scalp needs key moisture and oils, pH balance, cleanliness, circulation and protection to keep it healthy and well-treated. You must keep all these elements in balance to improve the condition of the scalp,” says Alice Dawkins, Hair Expert at Milk + Blush (www.milkandblush.com). “Encouraging clients to incorporate a thorough scalp treatment into their daily routine can help strengthen their roots and promote growth, as well as reduce flaking and the build-up of dead skin cells.”

In fact, many clients probably don’t realise that establishing and maintaining a healthy scalp can assist in hair growth. “Clogged hair follicles can prevent your hair from growing. A scalp cleanse or scrub can unclog these follicles and allow your new healthy hair to grow,” explains Dr Alexis Missick, who works with UK Meds (www.ukmeds.co.uk). “There is also research* suggesting that premature hair loss may be caused by scalp conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis and dandruff.”

“The scalp… is home to trillions of microorganisms that include bacteria, fungi and viruses and for our hair to really thrive it is important that we keep our scalp microbiome balanced and in harmony,” explains Samantha Stewart MIT, Consultant Trichologist and Hair Gain Ambassador (www.hairgainnow.com). “However, most people don’t pay that much attention to their scalps! Just think, you never hear any-one saying, ‘I’m washing my scalp tonight’ and while there has been a little more buzz around scalp care of late, how often do you hear someone say they are doing a ‘scalp facial’? The focus has always been on hair and skin care.”

“The scalp has the largest number of sebaceous (oil glands) than anywhere else in the body, some 80,000 – 140,00, add into this the sweat glands and you can see that the scalp can be a very moist, hot environment making it very easy for imbalances to occur with some 50% of adults experiencing a scalp problem at some time,” adds Eva Proudman FIT IAT, Consultant Trichologist at UK Hair Consultants (www.ukhairconsultants.com).

The most common scalp concerns present themselves as flaking skin, inflammation and itchiness. “For many, this is linked to the wrong product choice, method of washing or simply not washing their hair and scalp enough,” says Samantha Stewart MIT. “If [clients] are suffering from a chronic scalp condition this will require specialist treatment but for some, their mild scalp issues can be corrected simply by using products designed specifically with the scalp in mind and adapting to a better shampooing regime.”

Hairstylist Gustav Fouche (www.gustavfouche.com) comments: “The main reason for [itchy, dry and an inflamed scalp] is because most people don’t wash their hair correctly. Firstly they may use too much product, and secondly they don’t rinse it out enough. Both of these scenarios can leave the skin sensitive, red, dry, and can also cause eczema. “You can also have a flaky scalp, but this can be from other various factors such as aircon, stress, pollution and even change of diet.

“The best way to avoid all of the above is to nourish and wash your scalp daily, as you would your face. This way, it will keep the scalp healthy, thriving and promote good hair growth.”

Establishing a healthy scalp routine

“Dandruff is a very common, annoying complaint, caused by the skin on the scalp reacting to a certain type of yeast, called Malassezia Globosa,” explains Eva Proudman FIT IAT.”[It] is manageable with the correct shampoos and hair care regime. Frequency of washing is really important, ideally every day or every other day is a great regime to follow.”

Encouraging clients to adopt a hair and scalp cleansing routine that supports good scalp health is vital. Samantha Stewart MIT explains:

“When shampooing we must make sure the shampoo is worked throughout the scalp using the pads of the fingers, not the nails as this could damage the scalp. Repeat the same action when rinsing to make sure all the shampoo is removed from the scalp. It is important when choosing a product that we look at scalp-friendly ingredients that don’t clog the follicles, as this can increase inflammation and upset the scalps microbiome. I use and recommend the Hair Gain Scalp Foam as it supports the scalp topically by helping to maintain its moisture balance.”

“With regards to scalp health I think one of the main reasons people are noticing improvements in their hair is not using too many products especially products that aren’t necessary for what they’re trying to achieve as this can lead to excess build up,” adds Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional (https://uk.fudgeprofessional. com) Global Brand Ambassador.

Samantha Stewart MIT agrees, saying: “Only apply products that are indicated for the scalp. Many people work conditioner into the scalp but most conditioners and masks are formulated for the hair only. The Hair Gain Hair Mask is designed specifically to sooth and hydrate the scalp and will not unbalance the microbiome.”

In addition to inflammation and itchiness caused by improper product usage, there are of course chronic medical conditions that will require professional diagnosis by a Trichologist but can be managed to support scalp health. “Pink or red coloured scalps are showing inflammation, this can have multiple causes and should be referred to a Trichologist to seek a professional diagnosis,” says Eva Proudman FIT IAT. “I would always advise clients to get a diagnosis so that you know what condition you have and can seek advice on proven effective treatments from a hair health specialist such as a registered Trichologist.”

Scalp conditions that may require intervention from a Trichologist include:

Psoriasis: An autoimmune condition where an increase in the production of skin cells causes a build-up of dead skin cells resulting in Psoriatic plaques.

Seborrheic Eczema: Caused by a reaction to the yeast Malassezia Globosa, the skin becomes inflamed and itchy with secretions.

Irritant Contact Dermatitis: This is an immediate reaction to a product applied to the skin, such as bleach or detergent.

Allergic Contact Dermatitis: This is a delayed reaction to an allergen such as hair dye. “This is why it is so important to have a patch test before any colour or in salon treatment to reduce the chances of contact dermatitis,” explains Eva Proudman FIT IAT.

Neurodermatitis (lichen simplex): This presents as a very itchy eczema patch, usually at the nape of the neck, that becomes worse through continued rubbing or scratching.

Once a condition is determined, continued home care is essential to maintain the health of the scalp, as Alice Dawkins advises:

“While cleansing sets the foundation, guide your peers and clients to explore the world of scalp masks, exfoliants, and serums.

“These treatments can address a range of issues, from excessive oil production to dandruff. However, try not to overcomplicate regimens - addressing specific, evident issues is key.”

Image: Alterna Haircare