Rethinking Retinol

Shown to tackle a host of skin concerns including ageing and acne, Retinol or vitamin A based products aren’t suitable for all clients. We look at alternatives to this gold standard ingredient that are just as effective.

As we move into autumn and temperatures drop, you will have clients who may benefit from switching up their skincare regime. For those serious about achieving significant results through advances in skincare science, introducing a product that can tackle the signs of dry skin, ageing, sun damage, acne, pigmentation and much more will deliver enhanced results.

A form of vitamin A, Retinol is considered by many to be the gold standard in skincare ingredients, being versatile enough to effectively treat the results of ageing skin such as wrinkles and lack of elasticity, as well as skin experiencing breakouts and inflammation, scarring and stretchmarks, hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Used topically, Retinol works by proliferating skin cells and increasing collagen production to reveal a younger looking complexion and exfoliating the epidermis to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores.

What’s not to love? Although this wonder ingredient seems to do it all when it comes to skincare, Retinol will not suit all clients. Although temporary, common contraindications include redness and irritation, increased skin dryness, flaking and increased sensitivity to sunlight (a high SPF product should be applied daily when using Retinol products). This process is referred to as ‘retinisation’ however in most clients it will pass once the skin gets used to the effects of Retinol. But for clients experiencing skin sensitivity, dry skin, rosacea, eczema and severe acne, topical Retinol products many not be suitable. In addition as it is a derivative of Vitamin A, Retinol it is not to be used on clients who are pregnant or breast feeding. If you’re unsure whether a client should be using Retinol products due to health concerns, ask them to check with their GP prior to use.

However, this doesn’t mean you can’t treat clients who find topical Retinol usage problematic or unadvisable; there is a host of alternative ingredients that offer very similar results. Skincare expert Rebecca Elsdon of re/skin clinic (www.reskinclinic.co.uk) explains:

“Retinol has long been a buzz ingredient in skincare regimen over the years bringing with it benefits such as rejuvenation, even tone and texture to the skin. However it can have its undesirable side effects such as irritation and inflammation especially on the more sensitive skin types. Not everyone wants to put their skin through this in order to get these results. There have been alternatives in the last few years coming to the market to enable consumers to reach their skin goals without the struggle of ‘retinisation’.” Let’s take a look…

Bakuchiol / Babchi

Sourced from the stem, roots, leaves and seeds of the Babchi (psoralea corylifolia) plant, Bakuchiol is perhaps one of the most well known alternatives to Retinol. It increases cell turnover, drives collagen and elastin production and is rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. This means that it is effective in diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, improving uneven skin tone and firmness, reducing inflammation and treating active blemishes. Therefore, it’s an ideal botanical ingredient to include in the treatment of ageing skin, hyperpigmentation and acne.“Bakuchiol is becoming more and more talked about as the new alternative to Retinol,” explains Rebecca Elsdon. “Research has shown that this natural phytochemical can bring about the same gene expressions in the skin as Retinol. Studies show that it is comparable in its ability to target photo ageing and decrease wrinkles and hyperpigmentation whilst being much more tolerable than Retinol. This is a promising alternative for those skins that struggle to tolerate or would like to avoid the dreaded Retinol reaction.”

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid originates from Malassezia Furfur, a yeast that is naturally found in normal skin flora. This yeast is also found in grains such as barley, wheat and rye, where this ingredient is derived from.

In skincare, Azelaic Acid kills bacteria on the skin, exfoliates dead skin cells and unclogs pores, decreases the production of keratin, reduces redness and diminishes skin inflammation. This makes it an ideal ingredient to tackle acne and skin blemishes, treat melasma and hyperpigmentation.

Peptides / Polypeptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of proteins including collagen, keratin and elastin fibres. Peptides can penetrate the epidermis and act as a ‘biological messenger’; they trick the skin into thinking that there has been an injury that requires healing. This triggers the cells to produce collagen and elastin to aid in the healing process. Fresh collagen production reduces the appearance of wrinkles and lines, increases elasticity of the skin, improves texture and helps to build a stronger skin barrier. As a result, the skin is firmer and appears smoother, is protected against bacteria, and appears to have a more youthful appearance.

Niacinamide / Vitamin B3

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that is naturally made by the body. It can help to build proteins in the skin including collagen, elastin and keratin and assists with skin cell turnover. It can help to reduce skin inflammation, decrease hyperpigmentation, maintain skin hydration levels, strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier, reduce pore size, protect against UV damage and regulate the production of sebum. This makes it a good skincare ingredient to treat acne, tackle skin dryness, lighten dark spots, address moisture loss and address skin laxity.

Squalane

Squalane is a hydrogenated, stable form of Squalene, a lipid produced naturally by skin cells. As the body ages, Squalene production decreases. Although it was traditionally harvested from shark liver oil, majority of skincare brands source plant-derived Squalene from rice bran, wheat bran, sugar cane and olives. Squalane protects the skin’s oil from lipid peroxidation which inflames the skin and triggers acne. It also repair’s the skin barrier, and as an antioxidant protects the skin against exposure to ultra violet light and has an anti-inflammatory effect. It acts like a barrier on the skin, helping to seal in hydration.

For clients experiencing skin sensitivity, topical Retinol products many not be suitable however there are a host of ingredients that are gentler on skin but just as effective.

As a result, Squalane helps to increase moisture levels in dry skin and is even useful on skin conditions such as Rosacea, Eczema and Psoriasis.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs help to exfoliate the skin, removing dead skin cells and encouraging fresh cell turnover. The AHAs most commonly used in skin care formulations are Glycolic acid found in sugar cane, Lactic acid produced by fermentation of carbohydrates, Mandelic acid derived from bitter almonds and Malic acid from fruits.

By exfoliating dead skin cells, AHAs can act as an anti-ageing ingredient by reducing the appearance of fine lines and surface wrinkles, brightening skin and tackling skin discolouration. AHAs are also an effective antiacne ingredient as they act to unclog pores that can lead to breakouts

Spanish Needle / Blackjack (Bidens pilosa)

Bidens Pilosa is a bio-Retinol that activates the same skin receptor as Retinol, thanks to Phytanic acid derived from the plant’s extract, but without triggering inflammation. This makes it effective at increasing collagen production and elastin function, reducing inflammation and protecting the skin against free radical damage. In addition, Bidens Pilosa supports the function of the skin barrier and regulates oil.