Beauty & Hairdressing Magazine October/November 2023 Issue 11

We are In Touch Beautyandhairdressing.co.uk

We are ‘In Touch’ with you through, Beautyandhairdressing.co.uk ABT’s unique membership website that delivers up to date Beauty, Hairdressing, Industry and Lifestyle news. With our designated member area offering tailored benefits, discount and unique content. We are keeping you up to date with ABT’s stance on industry topics as they happen such as, patch testing. The Importance of Consultation Cards, Salon Safety, plus much more with step by step guides to the latest nail trends and products that are available for the season, as well as expert advice if you are looking to diversify your treatment menu.

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We are open for business so if you have any queries regarding delivery of our services please do not hesitate to contact us on 01789 773573 or live chat at www.abtinsurance.co.uk or email info@abtinsurance.co.uk

Our office is open Monday to Friday, 9am – 5pm and we look forward to helping you.

Accreditation

ABT Accreditation is a simple, low cost and extremely efficient way to step out of the crowd and show your potential students that you are approved, endorsed and eligible to offer, on completion of your courses, ABT membership and insurance packages to them.

Personalised Membership

Your very own personalised membership portal where you can climb from blue to beyond and earn points and rewards along the way. A safe place where you can check your insurance details and documentation and it is here you can utilise our ‘Find the Nearest’ marketing tools as well.

Contact Beauty & Hairdressing

Beauty & Hairdressing is published by ABT (Associated Beauty Therapists) Ltd. www.BeautyandHairdressing.co.uk

Publisher

Dave Horton dave@abtinsurance.co.uk

Editorial

Melissa Dennis melissa@abtinsurance.co.uk

Design

Darren Hassett darren@abtinsurance.co.uk

Advertising Sales

Shaun Peaty shaun@abtinsurance.co.uk

01789 336888

07837 206218

Marketing

Amelia Black amelia@abtinsurance.co.uk

Accounts

Tracey Board tracey@abtinsurance.co.uk

ABT’s Education

All-Stars!

Don’t take our word for it –read why ABT Accreditation is the No. 1 choice for Training Providers.

38

Skin: Rethinking Retinol

Alternatives to this gold standard ingredient that are just as effective.

Business: Can You Avoid Unreliable Clients?

Marie-Louise Coster discusses how to minimise no shows and

Beauty & Hairdressing, ABT Ltd, The Courtyard, Wixford Park, George’s Elm Lane, Bidford on Avon, Warwickshire B50 4JS

Beauty & Hairdressing is published by ABT Ltd. The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this issue of Beauty & Hairdressing and cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions from any information given in this or previous editions of Beauty & Hairdressing or for any consequences arising thereof.

Associated Beauty Therapists Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority Authorised Number 463052.

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Marketing: Reeling Them In!

Alicia Humphreys explains why you should be using Instagram Reels to promote your business.

Conceal dark circles and

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Nails: Fine Lines

How to create unique and distinctive Micro French nail designs.

60

Business: How Can I Get More Clients?

Katie Godfrey’s business tips on how to stay ahead of the game.

Hair: Let It Shine

Kirsty Judge highlights this season’s superglossy hair colour trends.

Encourage clients to adopt a healthy scalp regimen to help them achieve their hair goals.

There’s something special about this time of year; autumn gives us an opportunity to hit the reset button. Children are settled back into school, holidays are distant but delightful memories and we can channel our energies into our businesses and careers. The season of Halloween and Bonfire Night brings an air of excitement along with new prospects in the form of colour changes in hair, nails and make-up, season-specific skin and body treatments and a readiness for the busy festive period that’s fast approaching.

To keep ahead of the competition make sure you’re offering clients the very latest in hair and beauty. If you’re in need of inspiration, visit one of autumn’s trade events showcasing seasonal launches, treatment innovations and training. A trip to Professional Beauty North, Olympia Beauty or Salon International will reinvigorate you and set you up for a successful season.

In addition to the ABT Team chatting all things insurance and accreditation at the shows, you’ll find a variety of ABT Accredited Training Providers and brands open to sharing all you need to know about training in this season’s must-have treatments.

If you can’t make the shows but are keen to introduce something new for the festive season, now’s the time to do it. Do your research, book your training courses and workshops and make the investment in yourself. And remember, choose an ABT Accredited training provider and you can be confident that ABT can easily cover you when you launch your exciting new treatment to clients.

Wishing you a successful season,

Melissa Dennis, Editor

ABT Members’ News

Meet the ABT team at Olympia Beauty

ABT are excited to be exhibiting at this year’s Olympia Beauty event, which has moved to a new venue for 2023.

The beauty trade exhibition is taking place at ExCeL London on Sunday 15th and Monday 16th October. Plus for the first time, Olympia Beauty will run alongside Salon International, a trade-only event for hair professionals, which will be held from 14th to 16th October.

Olympia Beauty is open to all beauty professionals, salon and spa owners, colleges,students and educators. You can register for free tickets using the link below.

The event will host an exhibition of the leading brands in the industry showcasing Autumn/Winter product and treatment launches along with education in the form of Nail Workshops, the Advanced Beauty Stage and Health & Wellbeing Stage.

For those with a competitive streak, Olympia Beauty will also see the return of the hugely popular Nailympia nail competition and National Massage Championships. Visit the ABT stand to meet the team and talk all things beauty and hair insurance, accreditation and marketing. Plus members are invited to join us to celebrate our industry each day in the VIP Area for our exclusive ABT Drinks Reception.

And as at all trade shows, existing and new ABT Members can collect a free ABT goody bag filled with products and discounts provided by the many ABT Accredited companies and brands we are currently working with.

Plus if you run a training school, come and see us to discuss ABT Accreditation of your face-to-face and/or digital courses. This not only enables your students to easily gain professional insurance once qualified, ABT Accreditation also raises the profile of your courses within the industry.

To register for your Olympia Beauty 2023 entry tickets, visit https://bit.ly/47Cqhve

Add specialist ingrown hair removal to your salon services

ABT Accredited Sarah Louisa Training has received HABIA endorsement to train professionals as IngrownOut® Specialists who the public can go to for advice and ingrown hair removal.

Courses are run online by hair removal specialist Sarah Louisa Carswell, who also developed the IngrownOut® Tweezer, a unique instrument with a special hook end designed to fit precisely inside an open ingrown hair, preventing any harm to the surrounding skin while expertly flicking out the trapped hair.

Sarah Louisa Carswell explains:

“Hygiene standards are changing in the waxing industry and we need to shed more light on ingrown hairs [including] when to remove [and] when not to.

“This online course will certify the therapist to add this new role to their skill set, as a new treatment to their price list or offer as a service included with waxing. Business advice is included plus the IngrownOut tweezer. Students can gain insurance through ABT after the course.”

Sarah Louisa Training: www.sarahlouisa.co.uk

Ambassadors & Educators enjoy Beautiful Brows event

Beautiful Brows & Lashes have hosted their first Brand Ambassador Event in Liverpool, attended by Brand Ambassadors and Beautiful Brows Educators.

The day-long event began with Beautiful Brows’ Head of Education Kirsty Howard welcoming attendees, followed by a tutorial with Educator Louise Butler demonstrating how to use one of the brand’s new and as yet unreleased products.

In the afternoon BB Brand Ambassadors got hands-on, carrying out treatments and learning top tips from the Educators.

Beautiful Brows and Lashes recently achieved ABT Accreditation for their Brow Lamination and Lash Lifting digital courses to enable you to become an official BB stylist and gain ABT insurance for your new skills.

Beautiful Brows & Lashes: https:/beautifulbrowsandlashesuk.education

Harmony Massage achieves Harvey Nichols residency

ABT Accredited Harmony Massage® has established a residency at Beyond MediSpa in Harvey Nichols in Kensington in addition to offering training through Harmony Massage Ambassadors.

Harmony Massage® is a unique combination of hands-on massage and energy healing, developed by Directors Helen Porter and Wioleta Janik. Treatments combine therapies including reiki, aromatherapy, crystal and sound healing, reflexology, Thai massage and Swedish massage.

Harmony Massage® Training is available face-to-face and online, with courses created for anyone looking to introduce well-being treatments or start a new career path. Due to its ABT Accredited status, those who successfully complete the course can obtain professional insurance to offer the treatment in their salons and clinics.

Harmony Massage®: www.theharmonymassage.com

Dermalogica’s Accredited Training gets royal approval

Congratulations to Dermalogica whose education has been recognised by HRH The Princess Royal for the third time. The brand has once again achieved the Princess Royal Training Award, this time for their Upskill Programme, which last year saw 44 Dermalogica Educators and Skin Therapists achieve ABT Accredited qualifications in Skin Peeling and Microneedling. The award commends organisations that demonstrate exceptional commitment to learning and development. Dermalogica is the only skincare business to have been recognised in 2023, with 53 other organisations receiving the award across other sectors.

Dermalogica’s Upskill Programme was developed in response to the rise in popularity of advanced skin services and aesthetic treatments and aims to ensure skin specialists can enhance their skillsets and improve practice standards.

Commenting Candice Gardner, Dermalogica’s Education Manager, says:

“As the industry works to regulate and license in response to the Health and Social Care Bill, Dermalogica has not only taken a clear stand on the importance of being a qualified professional, but has sought to lead by example and demonstrate how investing in learning and development can benefit everyone – skin therapists, business and clients. This programme has given our teams confidence, competence, credibility and career progression. We are incredibly proud of the success of the program and of everyone who achieved their qualification.”

Dermalogica: https://pro.dermalogica.co.uk

Harmony Massage® Directors

Wioleta Janik and Helen Porter.

ABT welcomes government consultation on high risk cosmetic procedures

Following the launch of the Government’s consultation into unregulated cosmetic procedures, Associated Beauty Therapists (ABT) has moved to reassure members.

The proposed cosmetic procedures licensing aims to protect consumers in England against poorly performed high-risk treatments and introduce an age limit for those undergoing non-surgical cosmetic procedures (it is already illegal to administer Botox and fillers for cosmetic purposes to under 18s). Under the proposed scheme, practitioners and their premises from which they operate would require a license operated by local authorities to perform certain high-risk cosmetic procedures.

The consultation proposes to categorise treatments as Green (low risk), Amber (medium risk) and Red (high risk). Majority of non-surgical cosmetic procedures covered under the ABT Full Therapist Membership are likely to fall within the lowest risk category (subject to optional extension premiums, additional training and pre-requisites – see www.abtinsurance.co.uk for more details).

Such treatments may include microneedling, mesotherapy, IPL and LED therapies, chemical peels that involve destruction only into viable epidermis, micropigmentation including microblading and nanoblading, non-ablative laser hair removal and photo rejuvenation using laser.

Dave Horton, ABT Director, comments:

“I would like to reassure ABT Members that according to the Department of Health and Social Care’s initial documentation, non-surgical cosmetic treatments covered under ABT’s Full Therapist Membership are proposed to fall into the scope of the ‘Green’ lowest risk category. At this stage, we do not believe that the implementation of cosmetic procedures licensing would have an adverse effect on our members’ policies. Should the outcome of the consultation process identify any areas of concern, we will of course be here to support our members as necessary.

“ABT have been in discussion internally and externally regarding this situation for several years. It is important to remember that nothing changes today, nor next week, probably not

next year as this is a process a decade in the making and changes will be well thought out, considered and will take significant time to be discussed, let alone implemented. We will work with all members to secure the very best outcomes for them and the wider industry.

“Associated Beauty Therapists currently do not have a product, insurance or membership solution for injectables such as filler, Botox or Vitamin injections and regulation would significantly assist us forging that pathway safely for our skilled, trained and professional members. It is important when performing any treatment to be suitably trained, competent and insured, however with these higher risk treatments, where product diversion may also be a contributing risk factor, it is even more imperative standards are met and maintained.”

The consultation will also consider age restrictions for non-surgical cosmetic procedures. ABT back the legal requirement in England for clients to be aged 18 years or over to access Botox and filler treatments for cosmetic purposes. In addition, ABT policy states that professionals should be over the age of 18 years to train in and perform advanced treatments.

Further information on any insurance product mentioned, membership application forms, policy wordings, terms and conditions are available at www.abtinsurance.co.uk.

Non-invasive treatments. Non-invasive costs.

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We offer a number of supportive ways for you to use a SkinBase™ machine in your business. By far the most popular option is our unique pay-as-you-go system. With pay-as-you-go plans starting from only £12.24 per week, simply choose the plan that’s right for you and receive our accredited training, plus a FREE marketing support pack - all with absolutely no capital outlay.

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Beauty & Hair News

60th anniversary celebrations for aromatherapy pioneer

This has been a year of celebrations for one of the most well-known and respected names in our industry. Eve Taylor OBE has been marking 60 years since she started her business at her kitchen table, before going on to build her eponymous global aromatherapy skin care brand.

Renowned as one of the foremost authorities on professional aromatherapy, skin care and body care, Eve Taylor OBE pioneered modern aromatherapy developing original techniques and methods of teaching.

Initially she developed five facial blends, now known as Aromatic Serums, and opened her first beauty salon in Lee Green, London in 1964.

Since July 1963, Eve has travelled extensively educating 1000s of therapists and her role as an ambassador for the UK industry led to her being awarded an OBE (Officer of the British Empire) in 2008.

During that time she also raised five sons including Raymond Taylor (Production Director), Chris Taylor (Business Development Director) and Alan Taylor (Research Director).

Eve Taylor (London) remains a family business, and at 90 years of age Eve Taylor OBE is still working within the company alongside her sons.

Eve Taylor (London) Ltd: www.eve-taylor.com

Image: https://pro.colourstart.com/

Phorest & Colourstart collaborate for simpler patch testing

Phorest Salon Software has partnered with Colourstart to enable patch testing against allergic reactions to hair dyes and tints to become a less time consuming process.

Colourstart professional allergy screening is a clinically proven test for allergy to hair colour (PPD) licenced by the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA). When recorded on Colourstart Passport, clients only need to complete the test once for any hair colour without needing to be retested. The Colourstart process now officially integrates with Phorest’s salon software, which means Phorest users can match client details against Colourstart’s patch test database and check for a successful patch history. In addition, Colourstart send out automated patch test requests in the event that no patch test history can be found.

Commenting, Cahir Hennessy, Phorest’s Senior Product Manager, says:

“We are fully committed to ensuring both the salon and client journey is seamless and we recognise that for many salons, Colourstart is an integral part of that journey. We understand the importance of client safety and data in the salon, and we are therefore delighted to now officially integrate with Colourstart.”

Phorest Salon Software: www.phorest.com

Colourstart: www.colourstart.com

Bio-Therapeutic recruits regional manager for London

Beauty tech company Bio-Therapeutic has appointed Christine Letford as Regional Account Manager and Educator for London and the surrounding areas.

Christine has 30 years’ experience as an educator with more than 10 years of advocating Bio-Therapeutic technologies in her prior positions with other brands.

Commenting on her new role, Christine Letford (pictured) says:

“My main three passions are education, skin care and technology – and I am delighted that my new role in BioTherapeutic truly embraces all three. I’m also honoured to join a brand that is still so true to its commitment to the professional industry.”

David Suzuki, CEO of BioTherapeutic, adds:

“Christine brings a unique perspective to Bio-Therapeutic skin centres, not only as an educator, but also because she owned a highly successful salon in the United Kingdom. Her unique combination of business savvy, international skin care experience and passion for technology makes her a valuable resource for our UK accounts.”

Bio-Therapeutic Inc.: https://bio-therapeutic.online

Nine Yards names first UK Brand Ambassador

Swedish hair brand Nine Yards has named Barrie Stephen as its first UK Brand Ambassador. Barrie, who runs a successful salon group in Leicestershire, will be involved in new product development, marketing and sales strategy. He will also bring a creative direction to the brand, which offers a range of premium vegan hair care.

Commenting on his appointment, Barrie says:

“I’m thrilled to be representing Nine Yards as their ambassador. Their product aligns with my values and principles - I always support brands that are sustainable, ethical and animal friendly so Nine Yards is a great fit for me. I find the style and performance of their products inspirational, as well as having a high-end, funky aesthetic that really resonates with me.”

Barrie Stephen Hair: www.barriestephenhair.co.uk

Nine Yards: www.nineyardsuk.com

Image:Laura Hadland / www.thirstmedia.co.uk

Cleethorpes salon treats stroke effects with CACI

A stroke sufferer whose condition led to facial palsy has benefitted from muscle stimulation to tone and repair skin tissue using CACI treatments.

Rebecca Hyslop of Cleethorpes used her CACI system to treat her 76-year-old client Alice, who presented with the common physical results of a stroke, with the lower part of one side of the face affected by drooping and speech slurred due to the weakness of muscles. Rebecca explains:

“Alice has been coming to me for CACI for 11 years – I also treat her daughter and granddaughter. A sudden stroke affected the left-hand side of her face, in particular her lower cheek and the left-hand side of her mouth, leaving no strength in her muscles with her lips appearing thinner. Alice was distraught and enquired whether CACI would help treat this.”

Although she was confident that she could help Alice’s condition using the CACI system, which was originally developed to treat Bell’s Palsy and strokes before its use in aesthetics, Rebecca wasn’t sure how lengthy the treatment course could be.

“[Alice] had the stroke on the Sunday and was on my treatment bed by the Wednesday, where I proceeded to treat her to CACI every day for an hour for two weeks. I realised that she would need to commit to an intensive course, and then we continued with maintenance sessions – three per week to ensure facial muscles were lifted and remained in place. I realised I needed to balance out the face and lift the muscles, focusing at first on the jowl area with the CACI Jowl Lift.

“I also customised her treatment using ETR pads to help stimulate and strengthen certain facial muscles. After two weeks we saw great progress. Without CACI, I believe she wouldn’t have recovered so quickly. In total she had four courses of 10 treatments between mid-May until end of June.

“Alice was a shadow of her former self and yet by the end of treatment her confidence had hugely improved. I’m so proud of the results we achieved with CACI.”

Training in the CACI technique is ABT-Accredited. CACI: www.cacibeauty.com

Balayage tops poll as most difficult to pronounce style!

According to a new survey, over two thirds (67%) of clients leave salons with the wrong hairstyle because they aren’t able to easily communicate which style they want.

The research, conducted by Salon Promotions, surveyed 1,000 people and showed that 56% admitted to choosing hairstyles or treatments that are easier to pronounce rather than what they actually wanedt. The top offenders are Balayage (73%), Tousled (62%), Efassor (47%) and Keratin (35%). Over half of those who struggle to say Balayage believe it’s pronounced as “Bah-lay-ahj” and one in three (36%) believe Tousled should be pronounced as “Too-seld”.

Commenting on the survey results, Laura Elliot, Head of Education at Salon Promotions, says:

“As stylists, we’re here to help clients get the exact look they want and have plenty of experience which means we’ve heard enough mispronunciations to know what someone is after. If they’re wanting extra reassurance that they’ll leave the salon with their exact vision, perhaps suggest bringing a photo or magazine clipping to their consultation that you and your client can chat through.”

Salon Promotions: www.salonpromotions.co.uk

ABT is the UK’s leading membership & insurance provider representing over 18,000 members

ABT Accreditation

ABT Accreditation is a simple, low cost and extremely efficient way to step out of the crowd and show your potential students that you are approved, endorsed and eligible to offer, on completion of your courses, ABT membership and insurance packages to them.

ABT Accreditation isn’t just a logo, or a membership, it allows you to instil confidence and provide guidance to your potential students that they can get insurance with ABT. Once insured your students can continue practicing on the public with the new skills they have learnt.

A successful application would allow you access to the use of our accreditation logo, insurance for your students, as well as loads of membership benefits to becoming an ABT Accredited member.

To complete the Accreditation process go to: www.abtinsurance.co.uk or call 01789 773 573

We Also Provide Insurance

ABT’s Education All-Stars!

To celebrate our ABT Accredited Training Schools, here’s what they have to say about their courses and why they choose to partner with us.

ABT is proud to accredit some of the leading beauty and hair courses. In fact, we now accredit face-toface and online education at over 1,000 training providers across the country.

Undertaking ABT Accredited training means you can be confident that the course has been given the ABT seal of approval. The ABT Accreditation team examine the course content and how you are assessed ahead of issuing accreditation, so you know it has been approved, and once you successfully complete your course, you will be able to gain full ABT membership and insurance for the new treatment or skill you have learnt.

As a training provider, achieving ABT Accreditation enables you to instil confidence with learners that your

courses have been assessed and endorsed by ABT. In addition, you are able to use the ABT Accreditation logo in your marketing, on your website and social media and on course certificates. You will also receive a unique code to offer your students a discount off ABT Membership and insurance. Plus, you’ll have access to your own online portal where you can keep your details up to date, and your training establishment will appear on ABT’s searchable online course finder to drive more students your way.

To celebrate our ABT Accredited Training Schools, here’s what they have to say about their courses and why they choose to partner with ABT..

“I chose ABT as this is a well-known and respected company. It takes my courses to a higher level and it’s a company that pushes out their trainers. Students will feel more inclined to book with an ABT Accredited company as they know they will be getting a thorough course.”

Marika Permanent Makeup

“With ABT’s specialist knowledge and history of supporting beauty professionals, this partnership is here to form the future of the beauty industry, giving our courses, educators and TGB Academy graduates the ABT seal of approval.”

“The number one factor is that my students have the assurance that they are receiving education from me that has been checked by a high standard beauty therapy company – ABT.”

“I wanted recognition that my training school was of a high standard and that my manuals and the training I would be offering was recognised by a really big beauty company, so ABT was the one to go for.”

Sin Makeup Academy

Jasmin Hussain - Little Miss Glam

Victoria Cole - Train with Victoria / Lashes By Victoria

Daisy Kalnina - Founder and CEO of The Gel Bottle Inc.

Victoria Cole - Train with Victoria / Lashes By Victoria

“As a brand we were seeking accreditation which complemented our brand ethos, covered our extended needs, could include multiple training locations for our Educators and was familiar to our students. With all of this in mind, we felt strongly that ABT was a great fit for us, could meet our needs as a brand head on, as well as supporting our innovative ideas and requests.”

Courtney

“I choose ABT insurance as they set a high standard for both theoretical and practical aspects of courses ensuring that students can get the best possible training by experts in beauty. It also allows for my students to gain their own insurance when completing their ABT certified course, allowing them to build trust with potential clients.”

Andrea - Glow By Andrea

“I chose ABT for my accreditation because the process was so simple and easy! They talked me through each step and had a super simple portal online to upload everything…They also provided me with my insurance that I needed to run the course and to do my treatments so everything is all in one place, couldn’t be happier with their service!”

“I absolutely love the ABT portal, it is so easy to navigate with all the information easily accessible. The accreditation benefits are also incredible, much more than I have seen elsewhere, so for these alone it is invaluable.”

Donnelly - Lash Addicted

Nina Nicholson – Lecenté Lead Educator - North

Frankie WiddowsEyelash Excellence

Cassey’s Beauty & Training

NovaLash

IJM Beauty and Aesthetics Training Academy

“The reason we chose to be accredited by ABT was due to it being a reputable, reliable and recognised accreditation scheme. We only wanted our courses accredited by the best of the best and our gut told us to go with ABT. I’m pleased that we did, and proud to display ABT in our Academy.”

Lead Educator - North

Sinéad Cullen - Sin Makeup Academy

“The team at Sin Makeup Academy were delighted to become an accredited ABT member. With ABT we are able to offer our students true skills-focused training so there is no wasted time on antiquated techniques. Our students are learning exactly what they need to become successful Makeup Artists. ABT are super responsive and helpful, they have made the entire process stress free.”

Cassey Franklin - Cassey’s Beauty & Training

“Training in the beauty industry, ABT is the name I always heard. Leaving school, I knew I always wanted to be a Beauty Therapist and now I have my own salon and training school my dream’s come true. I train confidently knowing ABT has me covered and my trainees.”

Boss IT Beauty Academy

Safia GhafoorThe Shugaring School

“ABT have helped me achieve my goal of teaching and training the next cohort of sugarists. My students can be confident in the knowledge that my course has been accredited by the UK’s largest beauty membership and insurance provider and against strict criteria.”

ABT Accreditation: accreditation@abtinsurance.co.uk

Lecenté

Frankie Widdows - Eyelash Excellence

“I decided to change over to ABT firstly due to the recommendation of a friend who uses them, but mainly for the fact that ABT now cover online courses. I have had so many incredible students pass through my online training showing that online training can be just as effective as in-person courses, if not better in some circumstances.”

Hayley NewellBeauty on the Hill

“I chose ABT because I’ve seen their logo in the beauty industry and heard so many good things about the company… I’m so pleased I did as everything has been super easy and everyone has been very helpful.”

Marika Easterbrook - Marika Permanent Makeup

“I chose ABT accreditation for my courses as I have always used them in my own business to be insured. They are a wellknown, professional, reputable company and I feel my students will then be able to obtain professional insurance themselves once trained and certificated by myself.”

Izabella Csigo - Unigorgeous

“I chose ABT Insurance for our beauty academy because they understand the unique needs and risks of our industry. With their comprehensive coverage and tailored policies, our students can focus on honing their skills in eyelash extensions and various facials, knowing they are protected. This partnership ensures a safe learning environment, empowering our students to thrive and excel in their beauty careers with confidence.”

Brow and Beauty Clinic

Beauty on the Hill

“I have used ABT for all of my years in the industry. ABT have always covered my salons, all my staff, my teaching and now my manuals are accredited with them. I think it adds an automatic appeal to the courses when I advertise them as ABT accredited.”

“I chose ABT as I have been insured with them and I find that they are the best and most recommended beauty insurers around. I really wanted my courses to be accredited by ABT so I can recommend ABT to my students as an insurer, knowing I could give them my [ABT discount] code to help them save that little bit of money when starting up. I wouldn’t choose anyone else and would highly recommend ABT.”

“The success of our customers is our number one priority and part of that success is having adequate insurance for their business. As our course is now accredited, all NovaLash students who complete their training can obtain ABT insurance, allowing them to work with confidence while focusing on their business. We chose to align ourselves with ABT because of their excellent reputation and reach within the industry.”

“I chose accreditation through ABT to give my students the confidence that their course of choice was backed by a recognised and familiar company. Also to give them the choice of your discounted insurance.”

Kirsty Wilson - Kirsty Wilson Brow and Beauty Clinic

Laura Stevenson – Boss IT Beauty Academy

Susan Rankin CiT - The Hair Lab

Lauren Nesbit - NovaLash

Little Miss Glam

“ A s a c o m p l e t e begin n e r

I le f t t h e c o u r s e feel i n g c t o s t a r t m y n e w bu s ines s . ”

– N IN A

“ I h a v e c om pl e t e d t h e Fu l l G e lB o t t l e c o u r s e a n d

I l e f t w i t h s o m u c h m o r e e i n my ab i l i t i e s t o pr o d u c e h i gh qua l i t y w or k . ”

– S HANN O N

“ A b s o l u t e l y am a z i ng ! Ta k i n g

t h e F ull G e lB o t t l e c o u r s e i s o n e o f t h e be s t i n v e s t me n t s I h a v e e v e r m a d e ! ”

– J OYC E LYN E

A LL C O U RSE S

What’s New in Beauty

New adhesive balm enables easier lash lifting

Elleebana have introduced a new adhesive balm for use during lash lift treatments. Elleebalm is a hybrid between an adhesive and a balm, meaning it effectively adheres lashes to the lifting rods and shields but enables you to reposition when necessary. It also allows for lash isolation and directional correction without pulling or tugging.

The balm is formulated with Glycerine and Pea Protein to hydrate the lashes, along with Jojoba Oil to protect the follicle and moisturise. Aloe extract nourishes lash hairs and encourages lash growth and thickness.

Everlasting Atelier: www.everlastingatelier.com

Memory foam leg pillow offers comfort & hygiene

With hygiene a priority in our industry, Majestic Towels has introduced a Wipeable Memory Foam Knee and Ankle Pillow.

Morphe palettes are ready for anything!

Morphe has revealed the Ready for Anything

Eyeshadow Palette of 12 shades that be used alone or blended for an endless mix of colour.

Colours have a matte, shimmer or metallic finish, and are saturated with pigment that glides on smoothly to blend and build colour.

The Ready for Anything Palettes come in two buttery colourways, Wallflower a collection of neutrals, browns and red hues, and Social Butterfly which features brighter pastels of purple, gold and pink.

Morphe: https://uk.morphe.com/

The versatile anti-fungal and antibacterial pillow is part of Majestic Towel’s Wipe Clean range. It can be used to support pregnant clients during treatments, clients’ legs when folded in half, and opened out provides two cradles for the legs and ankles during pedicures. In addition, it can be used as a stable platform on a therapist’s lap.

Available in White and Steel Grey, it comes with a removeable cover that incorporates The Fresh™ technology to eliminate odours caused by yeast, fungus and bacteria.

Majestic Towels:www.majestictowels.co.uk

Benefit bring the Christmas surprises!

Benefit Cosmetics are getting ready for the festive season with the reveal of the All I Want Advent Calendar.

It features 24 days of beauty gifts including festive favourites and the brand’s signature products in full, mini and fun sizes. We don’t want to spoil the surprise, but we’ll be looking out for Roller Lash Mascara, POREfessional skincare, They’re Real Mascara, Fluff Up Brow Wax and much more!

Benefit Cosmetics: www.benefitcosmetics.com

Celestetic offers a combination of techniques inspired by aesthetic medicine and products with high concentrations of active ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven by science, makes it possible to obtain visible and lasting results.

Because every skin is unique, Celestetic treatments are fully customisable to suit every skin type, treating all skin problems for every budget to satisfy all your customers needs.

Elevating beauty treatments: The holistic fusion of Aromatherapy

In the fast-paced modern world, the quest for wellness and self-care has sparked a growing interest in holistic beauty treatments that go beyond surface-level enhancements. The integration of aromatherapy into traditional facial or body treatments offers a seamless way to address both physical and mental well-being. This harmonious combination creates an elevated experience that nurtures the body, mind, and spirit.

Aromatherapy, the practice of using natural essential oils extracted from plants, has been cherished for centuries for its therapeutic properties. When combined with beauty treatments, these aromatic oils can amplify the overall effect, fostering a more immersive and rejuvenating experience. A carefully selected blend of essential oils can tailor the treatment to an individual’s needs, enhancing relaxation, promoting skin health, and uplifting the mood.

One of the key aspects of incorporating aromatherapy into beauty treatments is the choice of essential oils. Lavender, renowned for its calming properties, can be infused into treatments to reduce stress and anxiety, making it an ideal addition to facials. For body treatments, invigorating citrus oils like bergamot or grapefruit can awaken the senses and promote a sense of vitality. These oils can be mixed with carrier oils, such as jojoba or coconut oil, to create massage blends that hydrate the skin while providing a sensorial delight. During a facial treatment, the aroma of selected essential oils can be diffused to create a soothing atmosphere. As the client inhales the

gentle fragrance, their nervous system can shift into a more relaxed state, allowing the body to better absorb the benefits of the treatment. This holistic approach takes the beauty regimen to a deeper level by nurturing the mind’s wellbeing in tandem with enhancing skin radiance. In body treatments, the combination of aromatherapy with massage techniques offers a unique opportunity for profound relaxation and rejuvenation. The rhythmic motions of the massage, coupled with the aromas of essential oils, create a multisensory experience that can alleviate muscle tension and promote emotional balance. This fusion of touch and scent can lead to a renewed sense of self and holistic well-being.

Holistic beauty treatments with aromatherapy don’t just end within the confines of the spa or wellness centre. Clients can extend the experience at home by incorporating aromatherapy into their daily routines. Recommending specific essential oils for their skincare regimen or suggesting relaxation techniques involving aromatherapy allows clients to continue benefiting from this holistic approach beyond the treatment room.

In conclusion, the integration of aromatherapy into facial and body treatments heralds a new era of holistic beauty. By engaging the senses and promoting a mind-body connection, these treatments provide a profound sense of well-being that transcends the superficial. The power of aromatherapy, combined with skilled touch, can transform beauty routines into transformative rituals that nurture both the body and the soul.

Ellie Dunmore is Managing Director of Penny Price Aromatherapy Ltd. Courses at the Penny Price Academy are ABT Accredited. www.penny-price.com

What’s New in Skincare

Clean anti-ageing skincare for sensitive skins

Perricone MD has launched a new collection of products with anti-ageing benefits for the most sensitive skins.

The Hypoallergenic Clean Correction Collection has been formulated to reduce stress and soothe irritated skin, protect the skin barrier and shield against environmental aggressors and visibly smooth and firm the skin. Key ingredients include Bakuchiol (plant-derived retinol), Ceramides, Niacinamide, Holy Basil and Mushroom extracts. The collection comprises Gentle Cleanser, Barrier Repair Nourishing Moisturizer and Firming & Brightening Eye Cream. Perricone MD: www.perriconemd.co.uk

Popular volcanic facial exfoliator returns

Kinvara Skincare has relaunched its Elemental Exfoliating Powder, formulated with marine-based ingredients to gently remove dead skin cells.

The formulation is entirely waterless, comprising Lithothamnium species, a seaweed rich in calcium, iron, iodine, zinc and magnesium and vitamins E and K. In addition, antioxidant vitamin C fights against free radical damage from sunlight and pollution, whilst Pumice, formed in the magma of Strombolian volcanoes, delivers exfoliating properties.

Ater cleansing skin, rub half a teaspoon of powder with a little water in the hands to produce paste and suds, and apply to the face in circular motions avoiding the eye area.

Kinvara Skincare: www.kinvaraskincare.com

Boost skin energy with new ATP & microcurrent masque

Bio-Therapeutic has developed the anti-ageing bt-cocktail® Energy Masque, bridging the gap between frequency specific True Microcurrent and topically applied Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP).

Depleting with age, ATP is the primary cellular energy source which drives the skin’s resilience against ageing triggers. The Energetic Theory of Aging proposes that replenishing skin’s energy can slow down and even reverse skin ageing.

Compatible with the bt-nano and the Bio-Ultimate Platinum devices, the bt-cocktail® Energy Masque is saturated in bt-cocktail Sequencing Serum containing ATP and peptides to give skin an energy boost. It’s also imprinted with Suzuki Silver to conduct True Microcurrent evenly across the skin.

Bio-Therapeutic: www.bio-therapeutic.online

Radio frequency treatment enters the Golden age

APG Tech has launched Golden APG Radio Frequency (Golden RF) to treat a wide range of face and body concerns and which can also be used alongside Dibi Milano Skincare to deliver targeted treatments.

The Golden RF features multipolar resistive Radio Frequency to deliver skin rejuvenation, tightening and lifting as well as a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, acne scarring, cellulite and stretch marks.

The device includes four gold plated applicators; gold is a bio-compatible material with very high transmission performance and is resistant to oxidation.

To maximise the system’s benefits, two facial treatments have been developed using the Golden RF system and Dibi Milano Skincare, the Golden Glow Facial and the Golden Eye Filler Treatment. Xpert Professional: www.xpertprofessional.ie

Celebrating Indian heritage with Hero skincare sets

Pestle & Mortar has introduced its festive offering in the form of The Heroes Collection, bringing together a curated selection of the brand’s best-selling products.

The seasonal range includes Pure Hyaluronic Serum charmingly presented as a tree-hanger, in addition to a Double Cleanse gift set which comprises Erase Cleansing Balm and Renew Gel Cleanser paired with a cotton face cloth.

In addition, The Hydrating Duo features a full-sized Pure Hyaluronic Serum and Hydrate Moisturiser.

Packaging takes inspiration from the brand’s heritage in Indian Natural Healing and is adorned with vibrant Indian motifs. The gift sets come in 100% recyclable outer packaging and no shrink wrap.

Pestle & Mortar: www.pestleandmortar.com

Gain a dewy complexion with new flash mask

Olehenriksen has launched the Dewtopia 25% Acid Flash Facial Mask to achieve a post-facial glow in just five minutes whilst also blurring pores and making wrinkles appear smoother.

Formulated with 25% AHAs and PHAs to retexturise and brighten, this home care mask also includes Salicylic acid to clarify and Hyaluronic acid to plump skin. In addition, 20% Aloe Juice calms and conditions the skin whilst Scandinavian Rowanberry Water hydrates and nourishes.

As a result, the skin is effectively resurfaced tackling dullness, uneven texture and discolouration. It can be used two to three times a week as part of an evening skin routine.

Olehenriksen: www.olehenriksen.com

Retinol

Shown to tackle a host of skin concerns including ageing and acne, Retinol or vitamin A based products aren’t suitable for all clients. We look at alternatives to this gold standard ingredient that are just as effective.

A Rethinking

As we move into autumn and temperatures drop, you will have clients who may benefit from switching up their skincare regime. For those serious about achieving significant results through advances in skincare science, introducing a product that can tackle the signs of dry skin, ageing, sun damage, acne, pigmentation and much more will deliver enhanced results.

A form of vitamin A, Retinol is considered by many to be the gold standard in skincare ingredients, being versatile enough to effectively treat the results of ageing skin such as wrinkles and lack of elasticity, as well as skin experiencing breakouts and inflammation, scarring and stretchmarks, hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Used topically, Retinol works by proliferating skin cells and increasing collagen production to reveal a younger looking complexion and exfoliating the epidermis to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores.

What’s not to love? Although this wonder ingredient seems to do it all when it comes to skincare, Retinol will not suit all clients. Although temporary, common contraindications include redness and irritation, increased skin dryness, flaking and increased sensitivity to sunlight (a high SPF product should be applied daily when using Retinol products). This process is referred to as ‘retinisation’ however

in most clients it will pass once the skin gets used to the effects of Retinol. But for clients experiencing skin sensitivity, dry skin, rosacea, eczema and severe acne, topical Retinol products many not be suitable. In addition as it is a derivative of Vitamin A, Retinol it is not to be used on clients who are pregnant or breast feeding. If you’re unsure whether a client should be using Retinol products due to health concerns, ask them to check with their GP prior to use.

However, this doesn’t mean you can’t treat clients who find topical Retinol usage problematic or unadvisable; there is a host of alternative ingredients that offer very similar results. Skincare expert Rebecca Elsdon of re/skin clinic (www.reskinclinic.co.uk) explains:

“Retinol has long been a buzz ingredient in skincare regimen over the years bringing with it benefits such as rejuvenation, even tone and texture to the skin. However it can have its undesirable side effects such as irritation and inflammation especially on the more sensitive skin types. Not everyone wants to put their skin through this in order to get these results. There have been alternatives in the last few years coming to the market to enable consumers to reach their skin goals without the struggle of ‘retinisation’.” Let’s take a look…

Bakuchiol / Babchi

Sourced from the stem, roots, leaves and seeds of the Babchi (psoralea corylifolia) plant, Bakuchiol is perhaps one of the most wellknown alternatives to Retinol. It increases cell turnover, drives collagen and elastin production and is rich in antioxidants and antiinflammatories. This means that it is effective in diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, improving uneven skin tone and firmness, reducing inflammation and treating active blemishes. Therefore, it’s an ideal botanical ingredient to include in the treatment of ageing skin, hyperpigmentation and acne.“Bakuchiol is becoming more and more talked about as the new alternative to Retinol,” explains Rebecca Elsdon. “Research has shown that this natural

phytochemical can bring about the same gene expressions in the skin as Retinol. Studies show that it is comparable in its ability to target photo ageing and decrease wrinkles and hyperpigmentation whilst being much more tolerable than Retinol. This is a promising alternative for those skins that struggle to tolerate or would like to avoid the dreaded Retinol reaction.”

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid originates from Malassezia Furfur, a yeast that is naturally found in normal skin flora. This yeast is also found in grains such as barley, wheat and rye, where this ingredient is derived from.

In skincare, Azelaic Acid kills bacteria on the skin, exfoliates dead skin cells and unclogs pores, decreases the production of keratin, reduces redness and diminishes skin inflammation. This makes it an ideal ingredient to tackle acne and skin blemishes, treat melasma and hyperpigmentation.

Peptides / Polypeptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of proteins including collagen, keratin and elastin fibres. Peptides can penetrate the epidermis and act as a ‘biological messenger’; they trick the skin into thinking that there has been an injury that requires healing. This triggers the cells to produce collagen and elastin to aid in the healing process. Fresh collagen production reduces the appearance of wrinkles and lines, increases elasticity of the skin, improves texture and helps to build a stronger skin barrier. As a result, the skin is firmer and appears smoother, is protected against bacteria, and appears to have a more youthful appearance.

Niacinamide / Vitamin B3

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that is naturally made by the body. It can help to build proteins in the skin including collagen, elastin and keratin and assists with skin cell turnover. It can help to reduce skin inflammation, decrease hyperpigmentation, maintain skin hydration levels, strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier, reduce pore size, protect against UV damage and regulate the production of sebum. This makes it a good skincare ingredient to treat acne, tackle skin dryness, lighten dark spots, address moisture loss and address skin laxity.

Squalane

Squalane is a hydrogenated, stable form of Squalene, a lipid produced naturally by skin cells. As the body ages, Squalene production decreases. Although it was traditionally harvested from shark liver oil, majority of skincare brands source plantderived Squalene from rice bran, wheat bran, sugar cane and olives. Squalane protects the skin’s oil from lipid peroxidation which inflames the skin and triggers acne. It also repair’s the skin barrier, and as an antioxidant protects the skin against exposure to ultra violet light and has an antiinflammatory effect. It acts like a barrier on the skin, helping to seal in hydration.

For clients experiencing skin sensitivity, topical Retinol products many not be suitable however there are a host of ingredients that are gentler on skin but just as effective.

As a result, Squalane helps to increase moisture levels in dry skin and is even useful on skin conditions such as Rosacea, Eczema and Psoriasis.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs help to exfoliate the skin, removing dead skin cells and encouraging fresh cell turnover. The AHAs most commonly used in skin care formulations are Glycolic acid found in sugar cane, Lactic acid produced by fermentation of carbohydrates, Mandelic acid derived from bitter almonds and Malic acid from fruits.

By exfoliating dead skin cells, AHAs can act as an anti-ageing ingredient by reducing the appearance of fine lines and surface wrinkles, brightening skin and tackling skin discolouration. AHAs are

also an effective antiacne ingredient as they act to unclog pores that can leadto breakouts

Spanish Needle / Blackjack (Bidens pilosa)

Bidens Pilosa is a bioRetinol that activates the same skin receptor as Retinol, thanks to Phytanic acid derived from the plant’s extract, but without triggering inflammation. This makes it effective at increasing collagen production and elastin function, reducing inflammation and protecting the skin against free radical damage. In addition, Bidens Pilosa supports the function of the skin barrier and regulates oil.

Éminence Bamboo Firming Fluid features the brand’s Natural Retinol Alternative Complex comprising Chicory Root oligosaccharides and Tara Tree which hydrates and strengthens the skin, smoothing the appearance of wrinkles. In addition, PhytoCellTec™ Swiss Green Apple Stem Cells delay visible signs of ageing by improving elasticity. Applied before a moisturiser, the fluid also soothes, hydrates and firms thanks to Monoi, Tahitian oil, Bamboo and Coconut extracts. The Skinsmith: www.theskinsmith.co.uk

Byroe Peony Tea Glow Oil is made with plantbased Retinol Bakuchiol along with Peony Tea to visibly improve skin texture without irritation. In addition, Glutathione evens skin tone while Triple Hyaluronic Acid hydrates the skin. This two-in-one facial oil and primer addresses dryness and dull and uneven skin tone.

Byroe: www.byroe.com

Herbal Gardens’ Bakuchiol Antioxidant Complex includes 11% Bakuchiol, Carrot Seed, Cacay, Rosehip and Squalane. This oil-based serum is packed with ceramides, antioxidants, essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to boost collagen production, intensely hydrate and enhance skin healing. Over time, it can help skin appear more toned. In addition, this serum creates a breathable protective seal over pores to lock-in moisture.

Herbal Gardens: www.herbalgardens.co.uk

Pestle & Mortar Hydrate Moisturiser is created with tri- and tetra- peptide technology and vegan Squalane derived from olives. This intensely hydrating facial cream firms and soothes the skin, repairing damage including reducing acne scarring and protecting the skin against environmental aggressors. Over time, it will rebalance the skin’s oil production.

Pestle & Mortar: www.pestleandmortar.com

This Is Silk Radiance Renewed Silk Overnight Oil is formulated with Silk Peptides, Bakuchiol and Rosehip. Used on cleansed skin at night time, it repairs ageing skin improving the barrier function, reducing the appearance of fine lines, increasing skin elasticity and tone, decreasing hyperpigmentation, tackling blemishes and inflammation caused by acne, and increasing hydration.

It has the added benefit of a relaxing all-natural fragrance of Rose, Jasmine and Neroli.

This Is Silk: www.thisissilk.com

Voya Bio-Retinol Concentrate Serum includes Revinage®, a clinically-proven plant-based alternative that is less reactive than Retinol, in its formulation making it ideal for those with hypersensitive skin. It stimulates cellular turnover along with collagen production. As a result, the appearance of hyperpigmentation is reduced, as are blemishes, and skin is more supple, firmer looking and brighter with the appearance of deep-set wrinkles reduced.

Voya: www.voya.ie

Evolve Organic Beauty’s Bio-Retinol Gold Face Mask is formulated with Bio-Retinol, a natural extract derived from the Bidens Pilosa plant. Created for normal to dry skin, the mask delivers cellular renewal benefits including plumpingup wrinkles, stimulating collagen synthesis and smoothing skin texture. Skin is further nourished with organic Argan Oil and Rosehip Oil.

Evolve Organic Beauty: www.evolvebeauty.co.uk

Dermalogica’s Phyto Nature Oxygen Cream is clinicallyproven to give skin four years back by reducing the appearance of premature wrinkles. Skin is also said to look firmer and more lifted after just one week.

Oxygen-optimising phytoactives including Squalane and Luffa Root firm and hydrate skin, Ligustrum Lucidum seed, Glycogen and Nasturtium Flower boost luminosity, Adaptogenic Astragalus and Electric Daisy Flower smooth and tighten the skin, and antioxidantrich Rose of Winter boost skin’s resilience.

Dermalogica: www.pro.dermalogica.co.uk

Elemis Pro-Collagen Renewal Serum rejuvenates skin thanks to natural Retinol alternatives of Stevia and Alfalfa derived from plants, along with Padina Pavonica (brown algae) and Red Microalga. This concentrate has been clinically formulated to reduce the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles and to improve the feeling of skin firmness and elasticity. It can also minimise the appearance of skin discolouration, sun damage and enlarged pores.

Elemis: https://uk.elemis.com

Chatelier Bright Complexion Ultra Rich Radiance Serum is made with Phyto-retinols derived from the Sea Fennel plant. The serum enhances skin cell turnover to brighten, heal blemishes, scars and redness, and tackle age spots, uneven skin tone and pigmentation. The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is reduced.

In addition, Lactic Acid, Phytic Acid and Citric Acid reduce dullness and stimulate elasticity and collagen production.

Chatelier: www.chateliercosmetics.com

Ella & Jo Relax & Renew Night Cream contains Bakuchiol to stimulate skin renewal without irritation, reducing hyperpigmentation and the appearance of skin discolouration and dark spots, wrinkles and fine lines.

In addition, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide and Ascorbic acid hydrate, plump and protect the skin whilst peptides stimulate collagen and elastin production. Antiinflammatory Magnesium heals and repairs the skin.

Ella & Jo: www.ellaandjo.co.uk

True Skincare Certified Organic Rejuvenating Cacay & Frankincense Facial Oil includes Vitamin

A-rich organic Cacay Seed Oil sustainably sourced from the Amazon rainforest which improves skin tone and smooths wrinkles. This is partnered with astringent Frankincense which has cellrenewing properties restoring the epidermis, and antioxidant-rich Blackcurrant Seed Oil and Vitamin E to neutralise skin damaging free radicals.

True Skincare: www.trueskincare.co.uk

No shows. They happen in every business at some point along the way. A client makes an appointment and when the date comes, she doesn’t turn up. You have blocked out time, potentially turned other clients away, and now here you are – time to spare and no pay. Frustrating. Deflating. Annoying. Then there are the clients who make an appointment in advance and the day before their appointment phone to cancel because something else has come up. You are polite on the phone but inside you are raging because you know it is unlikely that you will fill that gap at such short notice. Again, leaving you with time in the day with no pay.

Can you avoid unreliable clients?

In both cases, if you are not careful these situations will eat your income, whilst all the while your expenses and costs will continue with a depleting pot of funds to pay them.

So what do you do about it?

What is your cancellation policy?

Most salons have a cancellation policy stating something along the lines that all appointments must be cancelled with a minimum 24 hours’ notice otherwise clients will be charged in full. Others of you may have a sliding scale cancellation policy whereby 48 hours’ notice incurs a 50% charge and 24 hours or less incurs a 100% charge.

Whatever your policy is, do you enforce it? I imagine the answer to this is probably 50/50. Some of you will be strict and enforce it, others will feel embarrassed and awkward about asking for the cancellation fee. Here’s the reality, if you had one facial appointment per day that didn’t turn up, in one week (based on five days) that is up to £600 in lost revenue. Even a missed manicure a day would equate to upwards of £175.

If that happened a few times a month, several times a year, you will be running into thousands in lost earnings.

First things first, if you don’t have a cancellation policy you need to write one. Don’t be shy about it and just be to the point, be clear and be direct. Ensure there can be no ambiguity or confusion. Have the cancellation policy very clear to find on your website and have a notice on reception as a reminder.

Now I can hear you saying, but what about our regulars? What if Jenny’s daughter is sent home from school or Carol’s dog has to go to the vets suddenly? Of course, there are occasions when you may be a little more lenient than others. If it is a regular who never misses an appointment and she genuinely forgets one day, or there is some sort of family emergency or illness, of course you may decide to forego the cancellation fee. The bigger picture is that this loyal client has always been as regular as clockwork and never missed an appointment. It is up to you how you enforce your cancellation policy.

Essentially, a cancellation policy is there, first and foremost, as a deterrent and hopefully would very rarely need to be enforced.

Limiting no shows

Can you avoid or limit your late cancellations or no shows? Largely I don’t think so. A client could be booked in on Tuesday and has every intention of coming, but then, at some point she falls ill, her child falls ill, the car breaks down, her husband gets called into work. There are genuine cases meaning that late cancellations and no shows cannot be avoided.

Some salons take the approach of calling, texting or emailing clients the day before to remind them of their appointment. Whilst this isn’t the worst idea, if you call Barbra at 11am on Wednesday when she is due in at 11am on Thursday and she either doesn’t answer or says she can’t make her appointment, you are still (potentially) within your cancellation policy period and would need to charge her. Even though you have called her, and you know in advance, there is still little chance of filling the space, so is the phone call worth it or a waste of resources?

Truthfully, I think your only way of limiting these situations is by making your policy very well known and by introducing the taking of deposits.

If you operate an online booking system there is the opportunity to capture the client’s card details prior to the appointment and a deposit can be taken easily.

If you don’t operate an online booking system you need to form the habit of taking a deposit at the time of taking a booking. If you work alone and you don’t have a card machine you can still take a deposit by bank transfer or PayPal. Explain to clients that appointments are not confirmed until a deposit has been paid.

It is especially important to take a deposit from new clients because they are probably more likely not to turn up than your regulars who you have an existing relationship with.

Whether you normally take deposits or not, I think it is certainly worth considering for all appointments during Christmas week when you are really busy and in demand.

You are running a business, it is not a hobby, it is your livelihood, and needs to be treated as such. Be assertive, be firm, be fair and do not waver. You are a professional business owner and, just like everywhere else, you have terms and conditions that the client must adhere to. Never be embarrassed to enforce them.

Not just a cover up

Conceal dark circles and care for the delicate eye area with new tinted eye serums.

IIntroducing a concealing or colour correcting product into make-up application is nothing new. Back in the 1950’s, the trend for concealing and highlighting for an anti-ageing effect is said to have begun with the launch of Ayer Magic’s ‘ShadowFree Make-up’. In 2023, we expect more from a make-up product than just concealing dark circles. Clients demand hybrid products formulated with ingredients that tackle the cause of skin imperfections rather than just cover them up. Luckily the introduction of tinted eye serums enable us to offer skincare-makeup specifically for the eye area, and whilst there’s still a way to go, brands are awakening to the importance of diversity of shades to suit all skin tones. These products blur imperfections, illuminate the eye area, reduce the appearance of dark circles and protect the skin against the effects of ageing, enhancing hydration, improving elasticity and smoothing the skin. Many can be reapplied during the day if necessary, and be worn alone, under sheer tinted moisturiser or under full coverage foundations.

Katherine Daniels Pure Pigment Foundation

Drops are colour-rich pigments available in four adaptable shades. Apply the drops neat using the Katherine Daniels dual ended Pure Pigment Foundation Brush to conceal under eye circles. The drops are formulated with spherical powders to blur imperfections, whilst oils of Macadamia,Sweet Almond and Avocado nourish, and antioxidant Vitamin E defends the skin against ageing.

Katherine Daniels: www.katherinedanielscosmetics.com

Hydrosil Dry Eye Illuminating Concealer is formulated for those experiencing dry skin around the eye area. Cardiospermum, a natural vine extract, calms dry and irritated skin. In addition, skin prebiotic Biolin® introduces healthy skin flora to repair the skin barrier and seal in moisture.

It has a light skin tone tint with light reflecting particles that help to brighten and illuminate the under eye area.

Hydrosil: www.hydrosil.co.uk

Tula Skincare’s Radiant Skin Brightening Serum

Concealer delivers skin-boosting benefits with medium-to-full crease-proof coverage.

There are an impressive 20 shades to choose from that instantly conceal dark circles and discolouration whilst brightening skin over time.

Key ingredients include Tula’s Rainbow Seabright™ Elixir along with S6Pro Complex®, a blend of six prebiotics and probiotic extracts along with eye peptides and Tea Leaf caffeine to improve the appearance of dark circles, eye bags and skin texture.

Tula Skincare: www.tulaskincare.co.uk

Fenty Beauty Bright Fix Eye Brightener conceals, brightens and hydrates skin with a sweat-resistant long-wear formula.

Available in 16 colour options for sheer to buildable coverage, this undereye brightener is infused with HydraBlend, a complex of sodium hyaluronate that helps attract moisture to the skin whilst Jojoba oil conditions the delicate undereye area. In addition, elastomers and micro powders smooth skin and blur imperfections.

Fenty Beauty: www.fentybeauty.com

Colorscience Total Eye® 3-In-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35 is available in four shades.

It brightens and corrects dark circles and the product’s cooling applicator helps reduce puffiness when applied around the orbital area. Fine lines and wrinkles are smoothed, and Broad Spectrum SPF 35 PA+++ protects the delicate eye area skin against future sun damage.

Skin caring ingredients include sea water, marine microalgae, plant-based hyaluronic acid, peptides and vitamins.

Colorscience / Wigmore Medical: www.colorescienceuk.com

Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Vitamin CC Stick is available in three shades to tackle all levels of dark circles.

The new CC stick is formulated with two forms of enhanced Vitamin C to brighten skin, reduce dark spots and improve skin elasticity. In addition, banana pigments deliver light reflecting properties and caffeine reinvigorates the skin.

Olehenriksen: www.olehenriksen.com

Reeling

them in!

IIn the ever-evolving world of social media, Instagram Reels has emerged as a powerhouse for engaging and entertaining content.

These short video clips, often set to music, have become a favourite among users and creators alike. Whether you’re a seasoned content creator or just getting started, this article will guide you through the art of creating captivating Instagram Reels that will leave your audience wanting more!

Before we get started, let’s take a quick look at some of the benefits of creating Reels for your business.

“Reels have a longer shelf life than grid posts and can still gain likes and comments weeks after being posted”

Alicia Humphreys explains why you should be using Instagram Reels to promote your business.

Why create Instagram Reels?

Instagram is still heavily promoting video right now, and reels are still getting all the attention. There are currently more than 2 billion users on Instagram, all with access to reels. This means there’s a huge opportunity for visibility and growth. Unlike grid posts and Stories, which are only seen by people who follow your account, Reels are shown to everyone - whether they follow you or not!

Reels generate lots of engagement and have a longer shelf life than grid posts and can still gain likes and comments weeks after being posted.

This means your business has the opportunity to be discovered by a much larger audience without you having to pay for ads (winner!).

Top tips for creating scroll stopping reels: Know your audience: Before you hit record, it’s essential to understand your target audience. What do they enjoy? What problems can you help them solve? Your Reels should resonate with your followers’ interests and needs.

Plan your content: While spontaneity has its charm, planning your content can help you stay organised and ensure your Reels convey your intended message effectively. Brainstorm ideas, create storyboards, and jot down any necessary props or locations.

Keep it short and sweet: Instagram Reels have a maximum duration of 90 seconds. Use this time wisely. Get to the point quickly and maintain a fast-paced, engaging tempo throughout the video.

Catchy captions: Pair your Reel with an attention-grabbing caption. This is your chance to provide context, humour or further engage with your audience. Clever captions can make your Reels even more memorable.

Edit like a Pro: Editing is where the magic happens. Use Instagram’s ever-growing built-in editing tools or third-party apps to add effects, transitions, text overlays and stickers. Keep it visually engaging but not overwhelming.

Engage with trends: Staying up to date with trending challenges and hashtags can boost your reach. Taking in popular challenges can also make your content

more discoverable, just make sure these are appropriate and relevant to your business.

Interact with your audience: Respond to comments, engage with your followers and ask for their input. Building a sense of community can lead to a more loyal following.

Analyse and adapt: Pay attention to your Reels’ performance. Instagram Insights provides valuable data on reach, engagement and demographics. Use this information to refine your content strategy (this also works for your grid posts!).

And finally, here’s 3 reel ideas to get you started:

1. Show off your space! Record a short video of where you work and your favourite parts of your work space.

2

. Showcase your favourite product or service.

3. Create a mini tutorial, for example this could be a walk-through of how to use a product.

But the most important tip of all is to have fun! Authenticity and enthusiasm shine through in your content, making it more relatable and enjoyable for your audience. After all, people buy from people. Don’t overthink your reels too much, just hit record and see what happens!

Alicia Humphreys is Owner of Pink Fox Salon Socials, who help salons grow their social media presence and attract new customers. https://pinkfoxsalonsocials.co.uk

What’s New in Nails

OPI look to the stars for AW nail shades

OPI has introduced its Big Zodiac Energy collection for Autumn ’23 with a palette of colours inspired by the stars and elements.

With 12 shades, the OPI Big Zodiac Energy collection has a colour for every astrological star sign, each enhanced with pearl, shimmer or holographic finishes.

All shades in the OPI Big Zodiac Energy Collection are available in OPI Nail Lacquer, OPI Infinite Shine and OPI GelColor formulations, with six of the shades also coming in Powder Perfection.

OPI: https://trade.opiuk.com

Time for a Change of Pace for the new season

Gelish and Morgan Taylor have launched the Change of Pace collection in lacquer, gel polish and dip powders.

Colours are inspired by the natural hues of autumn with a mix of soft, highly pigmented neutral tones. These include an ivory pearl, a khaki crème, lavender grey crème, fuchsia pearl, black shimmer and a yellow/ gold pearl.

“Researching for this collection, I was drawn to New Hampshire and how pretty everything looks as the colours change and Fall descends over the landscape,” explains Danny Haile, CEO and Founder of Nail Alliance.

Nail Alliance UK Ltd (Gelish): www.nailharmonyuk.co.uk

Louella Belle (Morgan Taylor): www.louellabelle.co.uk

Upcycle your nail style with CND’s autumn shades

CND has revealed its new collection of colours for autumn ’23 inspired by upcycled fashion and the luxurious shades of the season including hot cappuccinos, worn denim and autumn foliage.

The CND Upstyle Chic collection of six new shades comprises teal, denim blue, chocolate brown, warm burgundy, burnt orange and a neutral pale green.

The new CND Autumn collection of colours is available in both CND™ Shellac™ Brand Gel Polish and CND™ Vinylux™ Long Wear Polish. Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

Fine Lines

How to create unique and distinctive Micro French nail designs

Originated in 1930s by Parisian It-girls and popularised by Orly founder Jeff Pink in the 1970s, the French Manicure never goes out of style. But that’s not to say that over the decades the look hasn’t been customised to suit current trends. This season’s take includes a micro length to the traditional crisp ‘white’ tip – now of course in any hue or finish – and tonal base shades that complement any skin colour. We spoke to nail experts Jaz Moger and JulieAnne Larivière for their take on how to create the perfect Micro French finish. Plus, turn the page for Gaia Rose’s step-by-step tutorial...

“Keep the white coats on the tip as thin as possible and don’t rush it. I recommend using a thin 11mm nail art brush. It’s better to do three thin coats as opposed to two thick ones”

Jaz Moger, Salon System Nail Expert and Owner of Paint by Jaz

Nails by Julie-Anne Larivière

Nails byJaz Moger

Nails byJaz Moger

“Make sure your base colour is fully dry before you create the tip. I prefer using gel polish because if you are not happy with your smile line, you can wipe it off and start all over again, which makes it perfect for the newly qualified techs who need practice”

Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System Expert

Nails by Julie-Anne Larivière

Nails by Julie-Anne Larivière

Nails by Julie-Anne Larivière

“Make sure all nails are the same length. If a client has broken two nails but wants to keep the rest long, it’s best to take them all down to the same length to get an immaculate overall finish”

Jaz Moger, Salon System Nail Expert and Owner of Paint by Jaz

“For fair skin tones I like to use a sheer pink or a creamy pink; for medium/olive skin tones, a pale taupe, or a soft peach; and for dark skin tones, a rose beige, or a cocoa/mocha tone”

Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System Expert

Salon System: www.salonsystem.com

Nails by Jaz Moger

MicroFrench

Manicure Application

By Gaia Rose, HONA Educator

Step #1: Using a Liner or Striper brush, paint one straight line across the nail; the height of the line will determine the thickness of the Micro French manicure. You can also paint two dots on either side of the nail (at the side wall area) to determine where the Micro French will begin and end.

Step #2: Paint two straight lines at a slight diagonal from the dots right down to the free edge. How angled these lines are will determine the width of the c-curve. The wider apart the angled lines, the rounder and wider the French. The closer together the angled lines, the pointier and narrower the French.

Step #3: Now you have your Micro French structure, you can go in with a striper brush and fill in the tiny gaps. Then place a small dot in the centre of the nail (below your first drawn line) as a guide, before creating your c-curve. Start with one side moving towards the centre, then follow with the other side.

Step #4: Now you can fill in your Micro French manicure using a Full Coverage Gel brush. Cure for 60 seconds under an LED lamp, apply Top Coat and cure again for another 60 seconds.

You can also use your Liner/Striper brush for a more precise fill, but it will take longer.

HONA: www.homeofnailart.com

1 2 3 4

Godfrey’s top tips to stay ahead of the game

How can

clients? I get more

OOne of the questions I get asked the most in my business mentoring is “How can I get more clients?” so in this issue I want to share my top tips to stay ahead of your game and make sure you stand out. However first you need to work on yourself before attracting the type of clients you want.

Katie

Train, train, train

Education is the key; even if you have already completed a training course why have you stopped there? Keep attending regular training courses and workshops. I would recommend doing at least one course a year and put that into your budgeting.

I flew all the way to New York to learn Russian volume lashes, because at the time (in 2014) there was only one company I could find that was doing Volume in the UK. I wanted to train with who I thought was the best so I could offer the best in my salon and to my students. I know it sounds a little crazy to fly across the world and I am very lucky I was able to, but it was worth every penny and made a huge difference to my company.

I’m not suggesting you go all the way to New York, I’m just advising you to make sure that you train with someone or a brand who you look up to, that inspires you and has great reviews. They may not be on your doorstep and you may need to travel, even if it’s a 30-mile trip it will benefit you greatly. You may only pick up two to four tips in each training session that were different to your last course but it keeps you up to date, fresh and on top of the game.

Stay knowledgeable

I love the saying ‘All great leaders are readers’. The industry is forever changing, new products, new techniques, new treatments plus learning how to run a business and how to gain more clients. All of this can be done through reading

It doesn’t have to be a book, it could be research on the internet, Facebook industry groups and forums. There are tons of ways. This will always keep you up to date with what is happening in the industry.

Charge what you’re worth!

Don’t be cheap, charge what you’re worth. Training takes a lot of time and investment. Building up your business takes a lot of effort and you have outgoings. You need to make sure you charge correctly to be running a profitable company. After all, if we are not charging right then you might as well go and work for someone else.

Look at your figures and see how much you need to make per hour to bring you the income you require. If you charge low, you attract low paying clients. If you price high, you attract higher paying clients. Make sure you know your target audience.

Be sociable

On social media sites such as Instagram and Facebook ensure that your posts are not too sales like! Yes, do put your portfolio up as clients will want to see your work but they don’t always want to know if you have a free space or a special offer on.

Social media is called ‘social’ for a reason and not a selling site. Share your tips on how to make their treatment last longer. Throw in a competition, share images of before and after and how they should look after their treatment. Add some inspirational quotes as everyone likes a good quote! Engage with your posts and be interactive with your followers’ posts too. It is all about relationship building which will help you in the long game.

Katie Godfrey is a Business Mentor, beauty salon owner, CEO of KG Professional offering ABT-Accredited courses across the UK, and hosts the podcast channel The Life Of KG.

What’s New in Hair

Keratin salon treatment rebrands

Hair-smoothing treatment Keratin Complex

EBO (Express Blow Out) has had a glowup and rebranded as KCEXPRESS.

The KCEXPRESS salon treatment locks in colour, creates sleek, frizz-free hair, boosts shine and increases hair manageability for up to six weeks.

KCEXPRESS features the same Signature

Keratin-enhanced formula as Express Blow Out, and the 15-minute treatment is designed to be offered as an add-on to a colour service.

It now also comes in bright pink, eye-catching packaging.

Rebel Beauty Brands Ltd: www.rebelbeautybrands.com

Capital Hair & Beauty: www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

Refresh your retail shelves with hair care duo

Roze Avenue has introduced its Refresh Duo featuring two best-selling products in one easy kit for salons to retail.

It features Roze Avenue Glamorous Dry Volumising Dry Shampoo, which increases texture and fullness by absorbing oils and impurities for refreshed hair. In addition, this ultra lightweight and non-drying formula adds flexible texture with a matt hold.

This is paired with the brand’s Detangle Wet Brush suitable for all hair lengths and textures, hair extensions and wigs. It features an aircushioned rubber pad with soft nylon bristles.

Essential oils the key to new natural hair care

Wellbeing brand ilapothecary has made its debut into the hair care sector with the launch of Head Space Shampoo and Conditioner.

Developed with 99% nature-derived ingredients, products are designed to support the scalp and follicles as well as add shine and body to hair.

Head Space Shampoo is formulated with Mint, Lavender and Niaouli Oil with antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties, whilst Head Space Conditioner includes Bergamot and Patchouli essential oils and Petitgrain oil which treats oily hair and greasy roots and also aids a reduction in hair loss.

ilapothecary: www.ilapothecary.com

Green chemistry used to develop sustainable hair care

Alfaparf Milano has launched a new line of sustainable haircare, developed using ‘green chemistry’ and ingredients that are natural in origin and designed with a water-saving approach.

The Benvoleo collection comprises four main care lines: Daily, Glossy, Hydration and Recovery, along with a professional in-salon range and finishing products.

Ingredients are obtained in a sustainable manner and include Oak Bark, Vine Sap, Rice Water and Citrus Fruits extracts.

Xpert Professional: www.xpertprofessional.ie

Stack the shelves with OSMO’s Xmas retail

Ahead of the festive season, OSMO has introduced three retail gift sets. Each gift box includes shampoo and conditioning treatments tailored for dehydrated hair, blonde hair or dry and damaged hair.

The OSMO Deep Moisture Gift Pack is formulated with Pataua Oil and Keratin Complex to repair the hair, whilst the OSMO Super Silver Gift Pack is infused with super violet pigments to keep blondes looking brighter. Completing the collection, the OSMO Wonder 10 Kit nourishes and protects the hair, detangling,preventing static, sealing colour and controlling frizz.

OSMO: www.osmo.uk.com

Revive dehydrated locks with intensive moisture mask

Neäl & Wølf have introduced an intensely conditioning mask to revive parched hair.

Hydrate Moisture Mask is formulated with Shea Butter along with Argan, Avocado, Jojoba and Crambe Abyssinica seed oils.

In the salon, the mask can be used as an advanced shine treatment; apply from the mid-lengths and work down towards the ends and allow to penetrate for one hour.

At home clients can use the mask as a 10-minute treatment as well as an intensive overnight hair therapy.

Neäl & Wølf: www.nealandwolf.com

Kirsty Judge highlights superglossy hair colour trends that will be on your clients’ most wanted lists this season.

Let It Shine!

BBrunettes never go out of style but for Autumn/Winter 2023 they are glossier than ever with the high shine brunette being one of the hottest trends for the season. This hair colour trend is perfect for those who are already brunette and simply want to enhance their colour brunette hue. However, it’s also great for blondes who are looking to give their hair a complete colour transformation for the season and that want to go darker and take a break from the bleach!

For blondes may want to start with a bronde or light-medium brunette hue to avoid the transformation being too drastic or by gradually adding brunette lowlights and caramel ribbons into their hair for a more dimensional take on the trend before fully taking the plunge to an all over tint. They may need to get their colour

done more regularly to ensure the colour takes to the hair and that it stays looking vibrant. For those with an already brunette base, a chocolate hue is one of my favourites to add a glow to the complexion and allow eye colour to really pop.

Super dark brunettes

Super dark brunette tones like dark chocolate and Espresso (almost black) will also be incredibly popular this Autumn/Winter. These have more of a cool tone and are particularly flattering on those with darker skin tones. They have a richer appearance and give the hair a truly mesmerising shine. They also are also beautiful paired with blue/ green eyes to make them really pop.

Image: Rush Hair & Beauty

Pearlescent blondes

For blondes, we will see super clean, almost ‘pearlescent blondes’ being on trend for the season.

With the Barbie movie coming out earlier this year and Pamela Anderson hair going viral, it’s not hard to see why these bleached blondes are coming back on trend.

Pearlescent blondes are a fuse of creamy blonde and icy blonde and should look picture perfect with no regrowth or brassiness in sight.

For clients looking to get this shade, ensure you have a thorough consultation about maintenance and looking after this hair colour at home to ensure it remains looking its best in between appointments.

Peachy rose

For clients who are more adventurous and looking for a bolder, brighter hue this Autumn/Winter, peachy rose will be the pastel hue of the season. Similar to that of the rose gold hair colour that was popular in recent years, however with a slightly pinker tone nodding towards Barbie, this shade looks beautiful on blonde hair to give it a fun update for the season.

Not only will we see this worn all over the hair, but also in highlights and panels through the hair for those looking to just add a pop of colour.

Gemini two-tonal

Gemini hair will be another prominent trend; fun two-tonal hair colour as we have previously seen on stars like Billie Eilish. I think the most popular pairings will be dark brunette/black with a vibrant shade like green or blue and blondes with pink/peach tones.

However, this trend also looks great when pairing two vivid colours for clients who want even more of a statement look.

Image: Rush Hair & Beauty

Mahogany red

For autumn/winter, red hair always comes back on trend and with an array of redhead shades to choose from, there’s a beautiful hue for every client no matter their skin tone. Red tones are particularly great for adding warmth and a glow to your client’s complexion and if a client doesn’t want to opt for an all-over red shade, they can add highlights/ribbons of red through their hair to give it dimension and shine. One particular red shade that will be huge this year is Mahogany. This is a richer, darker red hue and gives an impeccable shine to the hair. It is particularly great for brunettes who are looking for a subtle pop of colour but still want to give their hair an update for the new season.

Image: Rush Hair & Beauty

Image:RushHair&Beauty

Kirsty Judge is part of the Rush Colour Workshop Team and Salon Manager at Rush Hair & Beauty Sevenoaks. www.rush.co.uk

A solid foundation

Encourage clients to adopt a healthy scalp regimen to help them achieve their hair goals.

CCaring for the skin on our scalp is often an overlooked area of skin and hair care. Clients experiencing redness, itching, dry and flaky scalps can be common and despite a rising interest in this area, these are conditions that many may not consider a priority when it comes to self-care.

Just as skin specialists are concerned about the health of the skin barrier on the face and body, hair professionals should be aware of promoting the well-being of the skin on the scalp.

“Like your skin, your scalp needs key moisture and oils, pH balance, cleanliness, circulation and protection to keep it healthy and well-treated. You must keep all these elements in balance to improve the condition of the scalp,” says Alice Dawkins, Hair Expert at Milk + Blush (www.milkandblush.com). “Encouraging clients to incorporate a thorough scalp treatment into their daily routine can help strengthen their roots and promote growth, as well as reduce flaking and the build-up of dead skin cells.”

In fact, many clients probably don’t realise that establishing and maintaining a healthy scalp can assist in hair growth. “Clogged hair follicles can prevent your hair from growing. A scalp cleanse or scrub can unclog these follicles and allow your new healthy hair to grow,” explains Dr Alexis Missick, who works with UK Meds (www.ukmeds. co.uk). “There is also research* suggesting that premature hair loss may be caused by scalp conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis and dandruff.”

*Trüeb et al, 2018: Scalp Condition Impacts Hair Growth and Retention via Oxidative Stress: https://bit.ly/3QMy17S

“The scalp… is home to trillions of microorganisms that include bacteria, fungi and viruses and for our hair to really thrive it is important that we keep our scalp microbiome balanced and in harmony,” explains Samantha Stewart MIT, Consultant Trichologist and Hair Gain Ambassador (www. hairgainnow.com). “However, most people don’t pay that much attention to their scalps! Just think, you never hear any-one saying, ‘I’m washing my scalp tonight’ and while there has been a little more buzz around scalp care of late, how often do you hear someone say they are doing a ‘scalp facial’? The focus has always been on hair and skin care.”

“The scalp has the largest number of sebaceous (oil glands) than anywhere else in the body, some 80,000 – 140,00, add into this the sweat glands and you can see that the scalp can be a very moist, hot environment making it very easy for imbalances to occur with some 50% of adults experiencing a scalp problem at some time,” adds Eva Proudman FIT IAT, Consultant Trichologist at UK Hair Consultants (www.ukhairconsultants.com).

The most common scalp concerns present themselves as flaking skin, inflammation and itchiness. “For many, this is linked to the wrong product choice, method of washing or simply not washing their hair and scalp enough,” says Samantha Stewart MIT. “If [clients] are suffering from a chronic scalp condition this will require specialist treatment but for some, their mild scalp issues can be corrected simply by using products designed specifically with the scalp in mind and adapting to a better shampooing regime.”

Hairstylist Gustav Fouche (www.gustavfouche. com) comments: “The main reason for [itchy, dry and an inflamed scalp] is because most people don’t wash their hair correctly. Firstly they may use too much product, and secondly they don’t rinse it out enough. Both of these scenarios can leave the skin sensitive, red, dry, and can also cause eczema. “You can also have a flaky scalp, but this can be from other various factors such as aircon, stress, pollution and even change of diet.

“The best way to avoid all of the above is to nourish and wash your scalp daily, as you would your face. This way, it will keep the scalp healthy, thriving and promote good hair growth.”

Establishing a healthy scalp routine

“Dandruff is a very common, annoying complaint, caused by the skin on the scalp reacting to a certain type of yeast, called Malassezia Globosa,” explains Eva Proudman FIT IAT.”[It] is manageable with the correct shampoos and hair care regime. Frequency of washing is really important, ideally every day or every other day is a great regime to follow.”

Encouraging clients to adopt a hair and scalp cleansing routine that supports good scalp health is vital. Samantha Stewart MIT explains:

“When shampooing we must make sure the shampoo is worked throughout the scalp using the pads of the fingers, not the nails as this could damage the scalp. Repeat the same action when rinsing to make sure all the shampoo is removed from the scalp. It is important when

“Most people don’t pay that much attention to their scalps! Just think, you never hear anyone saying, ‘I’m washing my scalp tonight”Samantha Stewart MIT, Consultant Trichologist.

choosing a product that we look at scalp-friendly ingredients that don’t clog the follicles, as this can increase inflammation and upset the scalps microbiome. I use and recommend the Hair Gain Scalp Foam as it supports the scalp topically by helping to maintain its moisture balance.”

“With regards to scalp health I think one of the main reasons people are noticing improvements in their hair is not using too many products especially products that aren’t necessary for what they’re trying to achieve as this can lead to excess build up,” adds Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional (https://uk.fudgeprofessional. com) Global Brand Ambassador.

Samantha Stewart MIT agrees, saying: “Only apply products that are indicated for the scalp. Many people work conditioner into the scalp but most conditioners and masks are formulated for the hair only. The Hair Gain Hair Mask is designed specifically to sooth and hydrate the scalp and will not unbalance the microbiome.”

In addition to inflammation and itchiness caused by improper product usage, there are of course chronic medical conditions that will require professional diagnosis by a Trichologist but can be managed to support scalp health. “Pink or red coloured scalps are showing inflammation, this can have multiple causes and should be referred to a Trichologist to seek a professional diagnosis,” says Eva Proudman FIT IAT. “I would always advise clients to get a diagnosis so that you know what condition you have and can seek advice on proven effective treatments from a hair health specialist such as a registered Trichologist.”

Scalp conditions that may require intervention from a Trichologist include:

Psoriasis: An autoimmune condition where an increase in the production of skin cells causes a build-up of dead skin cells resulting in Psoriatic plaques.

Seborrheic Eczema: Caused by a reaction to the yeast Malassezia Globosa, the skin becomes inflamed and itchy with secretions.

Irritant Contact Dermatitis: This is an immediate reaction to a product applied to the skin, such as bleach or detergent.

Allergic Contact Dermatitis: This is a delayed reaction to an allergen such as hair dye. “This is why it is so important to have a patch test before any colour or in salon treatment to reduce the chances of contact dermatitis,” explains Eva Proudman FIT IAT. Neurodermatitis (lichen simplex): This presents as a very itchy eczema patch, usually at the nape of the neck, that becomes worse through continued rubbing or scratching. Once a condition is determined, continued home care is essential to maintain the health of the scalp, as Alice Dawkins advises:

“While cleansing sets the foundation, guide your peers and clients to explore the world of scalp masks, exfoliants, and serums.

“These treatments can address a range of issues, from excessive oil production to dandruff. However, try not to overcomplicate regimens - addressing specific, evident issues is key.”

Consultant Trichologist Eva Proudman FIT IAT has developed Tricoextra Hair Supplements to support daily nutrition with the vitamins and minerals needed for a healthy scalp and hair. The daily supplement includes vitamins C and E to protect against oxidative stress caused by environmental stressors, and B Complex vitamins that support the creation of red blood cells that carry nutrients and oxygen to the scalp. In addition, calcium, selenium, magnesium, zinc and iron help to regulate sebaceous activity vital for scalp health as well as normalise the hair growth cycle.

UK Hair Consultants: www.ukhairconsultants.com

Revitalash Volume Enhancing Foam adds body and volume to fine, thinning hair and aids conditioning of the scalp thanks to a proprietary BioPeptin Complex® of peptides, biotin and Panthenol. This also helps condition and strengthen hair while improving hair elasticity to defend against breakage and brittleness.

Revitalash: www.revitalash.co.uk

Act+Acre is the world’s first Cold Processed® hair wellness brand that focuses on the scalp. Their range of plant-based products has been created using a patented Cold Processed® technique that avoids traditional heat-based production which can lessen the potency of nutrients in seed oils.

Developed by Trichologist Helen Reavey, Act+Acres’ range comprises products to address scalp build-up, dry and itchy scalps, oily scalps, thinning hair, styling and a new collection specifically for curly hair.

Act+Acre: www.actandacre.co.uk

Monpure has developed a range of results-driven formulas to tackle hair loss and thinning by enhancing scalp health. “We believe that scalp care should be part of our daily skincare regimens and aim to make this easier and more accessible than ever,” says Natanel Bigger, Founder of Monpure. The collection includes shampoos, conditioners, serums, masks and scrubs formulated with skin-kind ingredients including Vegan Silk Peptides, botanicals, Retinol and Lactic acid.

Monpure: www.monpure.com

Designed to tackle dry scalp dandruff caused by conditions such as eczema and contact dermatitis, Hydrosil Scalp Shield Tonic contains a natural prebiotic complex of polyfructose extract from Chicory root. Together with soothing Passion Fruit seed extract, this has been proven to repair and strengthen the scalp’s barrier function. Applied to a cleansed scalp before drying hair, this tonic can offer relief from itching, dryness and flaking.

Hydrosil: www.hydrosil.co.uk

Hair Gain Scalp Foam deeply penetrates without leaving any residue to revitalise the scalp. It features the brand’s AnaGainTM technology derived from organic pea shoots and also includes caffein, biotin, betaine and phytantriol.

Due to its foam consistency, the product doesn’t clog hair follicles but instead deeply penetrates the hair cortex and stimulates the hair follicles to enhance hair density and reduce shedding.

Hair Gain: www.hairgainnow.com

Renowned for its advanced skin treatments, Heaven Skincare has introduced new hair care products to its Collagen Collection to address the natural reduction in collagen production as we age.

Infused with natural marine collagen and Hyaluronic acid to support and hydrate the scalp, the new Shampoo and Conditioner cleanse away dead skin cells from the scalp that block hair follicles and prevent new hair growth whilst also improving hair thickness and reducing breakage and damage.

Heaven Skincare: www.heavenskincare.com

Alterna has introduced a Renewing Scalp Care line comprising a collection of clinically tested vegan formulas applied using massage techniques for a sensorial experience.

Products are formulated using Sweet Almond oil, White Charcoal, Sea Salt, Peppermint, Tea Tree oil, and Hemp Seed oil to leave the scalp feeling refreshed and moisturised.

The collection includes Scrub-to-Foam scalp exfoliator, Hemp Leave-On Treatment to calm and soothe the scalp, and Peppermint LeaveOn Treatment to moisturise and invigorate.

Salon Promotions: www.salonpromotions.co.uk

BondiBoost Pink Himalayan Detox Scalp Scrub is a creamy scalp treatment infused with pink salt extract but with a smooth texture. It helps to remove excess oils and build-up, refreshing and purifying the scalp.

It enriches hair follicles and Green Coffee extract stimulates the roots as antioxidant Vitamin E hydrates.

This salt scrub may be used as a standalone shampoo / cleanser, or the first stage in a double cleanse routine.

BondiBoost: www.bondiboost.co.uk