1. INTRODUCING UGLY DUCKLING COLOR
Ultra Conditioning, Ultra Precise Hair Color with Argan Oil
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2. WHAT’S SO GREAT ABOUT IT?
1. Ashier Tones – Our ashes are ashier than most color lines. So less brassiness. 2. Blue Ash, Violet Series – More accurate correction of warmth on blonde hair 3. The Best Toners – Stunning Pearl Blonde & Silver Blonde results. 4. Greys – Silver grey, metallic grey, smoky blue grey, ash additives. 5. Fashion Colors – Do not stain, do not bleed. Vivid results. 6. Soft Pop – The newest colors trends. 7. High Lift Shades - Can Lift up to 5 Levels. And fight brassiness.
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3. THE BENEFITS OF ARGAN OIL
Enriched with Argan Oil Visibly improved hair condition
Smoother, softer hair More shine
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4. ALL ABOUT HAIR
THE MEDULA
The hollow tube at the center of the hair. It is the innermost part of the hair. THE CORTEX The middle layer of the hair. It is about 80% of the hair’s structure. The cortex gives the hair its color, thickness and flexibility. MELANIN The cortex contains melanin, which colors the hair fiber. THE CUTICLE
The outer covering of the hair. The cuticle gives hair its shine and strength and protects the internal structure.
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5. HOW OXIDIZING COLOR WORKS
COLOR CREAM (TUBE)
DEVELOPER (BOTTLE)
WASH & CONDITION
• Alkaline Agent: Opens the cuticle & provides a high pH (alkali) environment so that oxidization can occur
• Hydrogen Peroxide: Oxidizes (takes out) the natural melanin in the hair
• Washing and conditioning using a mildly acidic shampoo and conditioner helps to close the cuticle once more
• Color polymers are deposited into the cortex CUTICLE OPENS, MELANIN TAKEN OUT
10 mins
20 mins
RE-PIGMENTATION
30 mins
RE-CLOSE CUTICLE
35 mins
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6. THE COLOR LEVELS
10 EXTRA LIGHT BLONDE 9 VERY LIGHT BLONDE 8 LIGHT BLONDE 7 BLONDE 6 DARK BLONDE 5 LIGHT BROWN 4 MEDIUM BROWN 3 DARK BROWN 2 DARKEST BROWN 1 BLACK
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7. THE REFLECTS
EUROPE
0 Natural
USA
N Natural
1 Ash
A Ash
2 Violet
V Violet
3 Gold
G Gold
4 Copper
C Copper
5 Mahogany
Rv Red Violet
6 Red
R Red
7 Chestnut
Br. Brown
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8. HOW LEVELS & REFLECTS WORK
PRIMARY REFLECT (GOLD) SECONDARY REFLECT (ASH) LEVEL
6 GA 6/ 31 SECONDARY REFLECT (ASH)
PRIMARY REFLECT (GOLD)
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9. CHOICE OF DEVELOPER
DEVELOPER
USAGE
10 Vol Developer Level on level, tone down, near scalp application 20 Vol Developer 1 – 2 Levels Lift 30 Vol Developer 2 – 3 Levels Lift 40 Vol Developer 3 levels lift and more
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10. MIX RATIOS. DEVELOPMENT TIMES MIX
MIX RATIO
1 : 1
Most Ugly Duckling Colors
1 : 2
High Lift Series, Brilliant Blonde
DEVELOPMENT TIMES
WITH HEAT
WITHOUT HEAT
Most Ugly Duckling Colors
20-25 min
30 – 45 min
High Lift Series
30-35 min
45 – 55 min
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11. COLOR APPLICATION TIPS
1. Always apply on dry, unwashed hair. 2. Measure hair color and developer correctly. 3. Section the hair finely before applying hair color. Make sure you use enough product to saturate the hair completely. Apply with a dye brush. 4. Finish color application by rubbing in color with fingers, wearing gloves. 5. For fashion colors, make a fresh mix. Then do a second application (double saturation). 6. Processing time is approximately 30 minutes for most Ugly Duckling Colors. For toners and for lighteners, you need to watch carefully & stop processing as soon as you obtain the desired color result. 7. Emulsify before rinsing.
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12. GREY HAIR COVERAGE • Base Shades give 100% coverage on most European hair types. • Extra Coverage Shades gives 100% coverage on the darkest, most resistant and coarse hair. • Mix base/extra coverage shades with the customer’s chosen shade. When mixing with the customer’s chosen shade, follow the proportions given below: % of gray hair
Chosen Shade
Base/Extra Coverage Shade
Developer
30%
70%
30%
20 vol
50%
50%
50%
20 vol
70%
30%
70%
20 vol
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You can add 5-10 minutes to the processing time or double saturate to improve coverage.
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Use either base shades or extra coverage range depending on type of hair.
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For ultra strong coverage, use extra coverage shades on their own. 12
13. TONERS, ADDITIVES, CLEAR • Silver Blonde Toner 100.20, Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21, 10.2/10V • Pre-lighten to level 10 for best results. • Use with 10 VOL Developer. • Can be applied on wet hair. • Watch carefully and wash as soon you get the right color result.
• Ash Grey Additive, Ash Blue Additive • Mix in with your color or toner for stronger ash neutralization of brassiness. • Use with 20 VOL Developer. • Ash Grey is green based and more suitable for neutralizing brown hair (level 6 and below) • Ash Blue is blue based and more suitable for neutralizing blonde hair (level 6 and above)
• Clear • Will give 1 level lift. No color pigment. • Use with 20 VOL Developer. • Useful for mixing with fashion colors to make the result more pastel. • Also useful for caramelizing or “breaking the base”. 13
14. FASHION, SOFT POP, GREYS
Color
Pre-lightening Required
Violet, Blue, Green Turquoise, Lavender, Baby Blue Teal, Pretty Pink, Rose Gold
Level 9 or Higher
Silver Grey Yellow, Orange
Level 8 or Higher
Smoky Blue Grey, Metallic Grey Ruby Red, Fuschia Pink
Level 6 or Higher
These colors are not toners. Use with 20 Vol and leave them on for 30 minutes.
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15. WORKING WITH BRILLIANT BLONDE CHOICE OF DEVELOPER • For gentle color cleansing, use 10 Vol. • For color removal and gentle lifting, use 20 Vol. • For significant lifting, use 30 Vol.
MIX RATIO • 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer. • It is important that the mixture is fairly runny and moist, otherwise it won’t work.
SECTIONING & APPLYING • Section the hair as you would for a color application. • Be generous with the product. Try to saturate the hair completely with the bleach. • Start from the back. That is where the hair is the thickest and where the most lifting is generally required. • If necessary, apply twice.
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16. GETTING CONTROLLED LIFT WITH BRILLIANT BLONDE
• After applying bleach, watch hair level closely and rinse when you reach the right level. Natural hair color when lightened
• You need to lift to the correct level depending on what color result you are looking for. • For blonde results and most fashion results, you must achieve level 9 or higher.
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17. ALL ABOUT UNDERCOATS
• The hair has an undercoat, or underlying pigment at every level. • This pigment affects the final color of the hair. • Unless you neutralize this underlying pigment, it will shine through as you lift your client’s hair. It will cause “brassiness”.
10 Lightest Blonde
Palest yellow
9 Very Light Blonde
Yellow
8 Light Blonde
Yellow
7 Medium Blonde
Orangish Yellow
6 Dark Blonde
Yellowish Orange
5 Light Brown
Orange
4 Medium Brown
Red
3 Dark Brown
Red
2 Darkest Brown
Purple
1 Black
Purple
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18. THE COLOR WHEEL
• To neutralize the undercoat, you need to refer to the color wheel. • Use the complementary color (on the opposite side of the wheel) to the undercoat in order to neutralize effectively
YELLOW
PRIMARY
GREEN
ORANGE COMPLEMENTARY
COMPLEMENTARY
PRIMARY
PRIMARY
RED
BLUE COMPLEMENTARY
PURPLE
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19. NEUTRALIZING UNDERCOATS
HAIR LEVEL
UNDERCOAT
NEUTRALIZING TONE
10 Lightest Blonde
Palest yellow
Violet
9 Very Light Blonde
Yellow
Violet
8 Light Blonde
Yellow
Blue
7 Medium Blonde
Orangish Yellow
Blue
6 Dark Blonde
Yellowish Orange
Blue/Green
5 Light Brown
Orange
Blue/Green
4 Medium Brown
Red
Green
3 Dark Brown
Red
Green
2 Darkest Brown
Purple
1 Black
Purple
Use Ugly Duckling Violet, Blue Ash and Green Ash Tones to Neutralize Undercoats & Fight Brassiness
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THANK YOU!
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