BEAUTY
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Issue 259 April 2022
STILL FEELING GOOD NEWS ABOUT FASHION NOT ABOUT CORONA
MUTE MAGAZINE
CLASSY IS YOUR CHOICE?
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EXCLUSIVE Magazine
THE STYLISH AND TRENDY LOOK INSPIRATIONS BY THE WORLD BEST PHOTOGRAPHERS
THE NEW BM April ISSUE
BEAUTYMUTE AND THE NEW DESIGN!
Portraits of one of Americas Finest
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COVER STORY Photographer/Creative Director: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill
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Photographer/Creative Director: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography
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Photographer/Creative Director: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Wardrobe Credits: Pyriion Asrory
Photographer/Creative Director: Anke Sturhahn Wardrobe Stylist/Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Wardrobe Credits: Lewis, fruit of the loom
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Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Wardrobe Stylist/Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Model/Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Wardrobe Stylist/Hair Stylist: Wardrobe Wardrobe Credits: Lewis, fruit of t the Loom
Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Stillwoodammo
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Spring inspirations & new designer looks
Breuninger launches innovative brand campaign and presents the latest fashion collections in virtual worlds Spring/Summer 2022 Hardly any season inspires the fashion world as much as spring. With its new spring/summer campaign, Breuninger captures the fascination of this brightly colored and multi-faceted season in a sensuous and expressive way. Alongside the latest designer looks from Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Jacquemus and Zimmermann, exclusive jewelry creations for early summer from select designer and newcomer brands such as Bvlgari, Tiffany, Tilly Sveaas and Ariane Ernst are also showcased, all of them intended to stimulate and inspire individual expressions of style. The core of the campaign is the innovative production method of Extended Reality, used here to create a dream-like backdrop where real and virtual beings or objects appear together. Thanks to the depth of this imaginary space, the viewer is transported into an inspiring spring landscape. In the first theme of the campaign, this is an invigorating, rich green garden scene (“Beauty of Spring”), recalling impressionists such as Monet, while the second theme of the campaign uses innovative visual techniques and plays with reflections in water to imitate a bright spring day (“Eternal Spring”). The key unifying virtual element of both campaign formats is a blue butterfly designed by renowned French illustrator Pierre Mornet. Transformed into a digital 3D animation, this butterfly flutters through these early summer settingsaround a total of nine campaign talents, centered on fashion and beauty models Lorena Rae, Julia Banas and Stuttgart-based ballet soloist Matteo Miccini. At the POS, the blue butterfly appears as an inspirational icon in windows, within stores and as an installation in the atria of Breuninger stores. With this entirely innovative and hybrid campaign production that merges together the real and digital worlds, we are establishing a unique kind of communication with a very special appeal. Combined with the underlying narrative of the versatile early summer season, we have succeeded in creating a new brand identity for Breuninger that surprises and inspires,” says Carsten Hendrich, Chief Brand Officer at Breuninger. The central communication element of the campaign is a 20-second or 15-second campaign film, depending on the theme, that is broadcast on TV and all relevant digital channels and supplemented by print, out-of-home, DOOH and Breuninger’s own channels. Social media channels such as Snapchat and Instagram also play a central role. On breuninger.com, the campaign will be available starting April 4, 2022, or on TV starting April 19, 2022. Highlights of the extensive new designer collections can also be seen on April 5, 2022 at 7 p.m. in the “Digital Fashion Show” on breuninger.com accompanying the campaign. Virtual studio sets the stage for the latest Breuninger campaign Breuninger was the first fashion client ever to produce its new campaign in Europa’s leading virtual production studio, the Hyperbowl production facility in the town of Penzing near Landsberg am Lech, drawing on the “metaverse”, an extension of reality into digital space, to present its brand. Over an LED area extending 500 square meters, digitally created fantasy worlds blend together with reality. Hyperbowl is one of the only studios to feature a high-resolution LED ceiling, which can transform the space into a pool of water for filming.
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Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Wardrobe Stylist/Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Wardrobe Stylist/Hair Stylist: Wardrobe Creative Director: Amratealastitiu Wardrobe Credits: Lewis, fruit of the loom
Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography
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Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography
Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Model/Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Wardrobe Credits: Lewis Froot of the loom
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Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Location: Studio By The Mill
Photographer: Anke Sturhahn Male Model: Pyrion Astorii Wardrobe Stylist: Amora Teal-Astorii Accessory Designer: Ash Photography Location: Studio By The Mill Accessory Designer: Stillwoodammo
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Swissdigital Design Launch& es Travel Gear Line with Apple Find My Network Sup& port Swissdigital Design offers a travel line that works with Apple’s Find My app, allowing travellers to locate and keep track of their belongings in a secure and easy way. Swissdigital Design, a technology fashion premium brand, today announces its first line of travel gear, SDD Finding series, which works with Apple’s vast and global Find My network. The Find My network is a crowdsourced network of almost one billion Apple devices that use Bluetooth wireless technology to detect missing devices or items nearby, and report their approximate location back to the owner in the Find My app. The entire process is end-to-end encrypted and anonymous, so no one else, not even Apple or Swissdigital Design, can view a device’s location or information. With a range of backpacks, luggage, handbags and stand-alone item finders, Swissdigital Design combines design with Apple’s innovative technology. Select products in this new line also include other innovations such as a massage function, RFID protection and USB charging system. These new Swissdigital Design backpacks, bags, luggage, and item finders will be equipped with finding capabilities using Apple’s Find My app, and also feature a speaker capable of producing up to a max. 130 dB alarm and a bright blue light to help locate the bag or item, even in the dark. “We are happy to have the opportunity to offer our innovative line of luggage and travel gear that work with Apple’s Find My network,” says Martin Bieri, Chief Sales & Marketing Officer of Swissdigital Global.
In the first week of the new year, customers in all EU countries, and in the US, will have direct access to the products on Amazon. The products will also be introduced in major retailers in Germany, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland and Netherlands, followed by other retail stores throughout Europe and North America in the first half of 2022. In addition to these groundbreaking innovations, the bag styles were all fully thought out during the design phase in Switzerland. Every detail that increases the comfort and reliability of the bag is included. For example, the bags have a secure pocket with a zipper that is worn against the back, and the bags include a key ring so that keys will always be stored at the same location. All Swissdigital Design bags are of premium quality and have a fashionable design where every business traveller or urban traveller can find a bag that suits their modern urban needs. These new Swissdigital Design products have completed certification through the Find My network accessory program, which enables third-party companies to build finding capabilities into their products, letting them extend the capabilities of Apple’s Find My app to help their customers locate and keep track of their important items. About Swissdigital Design Things are different here. Swissdigital Design is an ambitious brand that loves to push the envelope with its unique fusion of practical and digital. It’s how we came up with DigitalSHIELD, the world’s first Android smartwatch. Swissdigital Design offers high quality lifestyle products such as bags and backpacks. Smart luggage packed with (digital) innovations in a luxury and sleek design. Swissdigital Design is all you need to experience new adventures in a comfortable and trusted way.
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Zalando to roll out circu& lar.fashion’s Circular De& sign Criteria to brands As shown in Zalando’s 2021 Sustainability Progress Report, we have spent the last two years laying important foundations for circularity and working towards extending the life of 50 million fashion products by 2023. Hear Zalando’s Head of Circularity, Laura Coppen, explain the refined and adapted Circular Design Criteria of Berlin-based circular.fashion, that will allow for a standardisation of products designed for circularity by our 5,800 brand partners on the Zalando platform and supporting our 48 million customers to discover products that are more safe, durable and recyclable.
Why is circular design needed in the fashion industry? Circular design is needed in the fashion industry because there is a huge environmental impact created in the Design and Manufacture Stage of a product’s lifecycle. Everything from the material choices to the production processes, can have a dramatic impact at that stage, with a knock on effect on how that product flows through its entire life cycle — how it is used, how it is reused, how it typically doesn’t, but should, get recycled. By applying Circular Design Criteria we enable designers to change the way they design products and set a clear framework for brands wanting to sell and promote such products on our platform. If we zoom out and see where the industry is when it comes to circularity, in the last few years there is a dramatic increase in knowledge as to what a circular economy can bring to industries, specifically the fashion industry. New business models such as recommerce, rentals and the recycling infrastructure are really starting to pick up. The piece of the puzzle that has been less tackled is this circular design piece. It will require a lot of upskilling not only for designers but across the supply chain to revolutionize how products are made. For instance, if products are made to be more durable, they can better support circular business models — such as clothing rental and preowned assortments — which rely on garments lasting through multiple uses and users. You can’t bring circularity to life with one business model on its own, it needs to be holistic and that is what our strategy brings forward. How have you collaborated with circular.fashion to solve this problem? We’ve been working with circular.fashion for a number of years. Most recently in the development of our redeZIGN collections, in which we offered training conducted by circular.fashion to over 200 colleagues including our private label designers and buyers, and tested the Circular Design Criteria to make these scalable and available for all brands. Based on circular.fashion’s Circular Design Criteria, we have adapted these to the existing Sustainability Criteria of Zalando, to provide brands consistency of requirements to ensure they are usable and accessible to all (e.g. by focusing on most used materials). What is the difference between a sustainable and a circular product? The criteria are built on three strategies that are aligned with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s circular design guidelines. Strategy 01 is that products are made with safe and recycled and/or renewable inputs, Strategy 02, that they are made to last longer, be repaired and potentially also carry digital product passports that allow for flow through circular business models, and Strategy 03, that they are made to be made again, so that they can actually be recycled or regenerated into new materials when they reach the end of life. Each of these break down into a number of specific criteria that have to be fulfilled depending on whether a MINIMUM or BETTER level is being achieved, for example required certificates such as chemical safety (ZDHC MRSL), organic cotton (GOTS), recycled content (GRS, RCS) etc.; limited fiber blending of 3 or fewer types; or a recycler’s declaration stating whether the product contains mainly post-consumer or pre-consumer recycled fibres. A more sustainable product (and our existing sustainability criteria) typically looks at the first piece of the puzzle – ensuring that garments are made from safe, recycled and renewable materials. Circular design is taking a holistic look at the entire product lifecycle, which is where we need to be headed as an industry. What this means for our customers is that they can discover and buy a product that is made from certified materials, that the product has technical durability built into it — so it lasts longer — and we hope that it has a higher resale value because the durability lasts several life cycles of ownership. Lastly, they can be assured that the product goes back into making a new product or material. This is critical when you look at the principles of a circular economy, which is to eliminate waste and pollution, circulate products and materials (at their highest value) and products and regenerate natural systems.
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Will the criteria only be used for Zalando and its private labels? Definitely not. We want to roll this out to our brand partners over the next months so that the positive effects can reach scale. To do this successfully we had to try things out in our private labels to get holistic feedback from brands and recyclers. We have also consulted with our public affairs team to align with upcoming regulations and make sure that the criteria would comply. Those conversations have enabled us to tweak certain elements of the criteria, so we have really taken a collaborative industry approach and that has strengthened it and made sure that we are not doing this in isolation. That’s what we have been doing over the last year, now we are at the point of readiness to launch it towards brands. We are really excited about the opportunity for our brands to test this out. Many of our brand partners are already trialling circular principles in their design process. Over the next months our focus will be on enabling brands in using the criteria and updating the digital experience to reflect this new set of criteria. How do these criteria align with the EU Textiles Strategy? The EU textile strategy was launched at the end of last month. We welcome the publication of the Ecodesign regulation proposal as it will set an overarching framework to guide eco-design of products and therefore create common and reliable guidelines on sustainability requirements for fashion brands selling in the EU. The Circular Design Criteria are an essential building block in the direction of industry-wide environmental sustainability standards, as they are in line with the EU proposal. We look forward to participating in the development of what these EU criteria mean for fashion. We also believe digitisation of sustainability information is key to empower consumers to buy more sustainably, and we would welcome the introduction of the Digital Product Passport for textiles, as already implemented in our redeZIGN collection. In our criteria, having the digital product passport attached to a product is part of the BETTER level. At the MINIMUM level, this data is still optional. What further developments can we expect in future? Currently, brands can fulfill the criteria based on a self-declaration, because there are no industry standards for circular design yet, apart from Cradle-to-Cradle CertifiedTM which we already accept as part of our sustainability criteria. We are supporting circular.fashion in introducing tools and processes to validate circularity claims. Certifications and standards exist for the first principle of materials and processes, but not yet for durability and recyclability. This is something that circular.fashion is working on. Additionally, the criteria is for the apparel category, but we want to learn how these principles work to then create product design criteria for other items, like footwear. We would take a similar approach with the principles from the Ellen McArthur Foundation and translate them to be relevant for shoes. We are already part of some industry working groups, one of them being Accelerated Circularity, which has a shoe work stream that deals with how shoes can be sorted, disassembled and recycled.
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Welcome to HOtel Hennes! Gigi Hadid stars in H&M´s new film directed by Bardia Zeinali
H&M are proud to unveil the delightful and unexpected Hôtel Hennes in a brand new film. Hôtel Hennes is a fictional fashion destination, inspired by legendary art hotels, where artists, thinkers and icons hung out, collaborated, and completed residencies. It is a place where aesthetics are exaggerated and experimental, where stories can twist and turn, where dreams are made, and where fashion has no rules.
“Visually, Hôtel Hennes is a wonderland; the stars are not in their usual roles and every frame is intended as a new adventure.” Bardia Zeinali, director Watch the hotel owner, played by Gigi Hadid, welcome a new hotel guest, played by model Jill Kortleve, to the Hôtel Hennes with the help of an entertaining cast of visitors and staff, from models-turned-bellhops Jazzelle Zanaughtti and Kiddy Akita Lou, to newly checked-in holiday-makers, Isabelle Chaput and Nelson Tiberghien of the Young Emperors. Also on site are model Olivia Vinten, as the Head of Housekeeping; dancer and content creator Donté Colley as the Head of Glow-ups; model Devyn Garcia as a lifeguard; editor Julia Hobbs as a fashion journalist; model Precious Lee as a catwalk model; and content creator Christina “Tinx” Najjar as the Hôtel’s receptionist. “This is a homage to those magical hotels that have been the site of so much creativity in the past. I had so much fun on set, and I think that shows through in the film; the message is welcoming and playful.” Gigi Hadid The spirt of the campaign film is further celebrated by the release of a selection of new Hôtel Hennes merch, including beach towels, sunglasses, tote bags, bikinis, shorts and t-shirts. The pieces, which are all crafted in palettes and patterns inspired by the upbeat retro look of Hôtel Hennes, will be in stores and online from 28 April “We are thrilled to invite our customers into the world of Hôtel Hennes: a fictional and magical place where our Spring and Summer fashion is celebrated. We look forward to welcoming our customers to the new season at H&M!” Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor, H&M
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