FGI Night of Stars by Susan Alveshere

FEATURE Night of Stars 3 TALKING TRENDS Trends in the Creative Process 4 RTW COLLECTIONS Trend Report, Spring / Summer 2010

2009

N I G H T O F S TA R S

5 10th Annual National Design Awards 6 MADAME PAULETTE Can the Leopard Change its Spots? 7 RETAIL SYMPOSIUM Post-Recession Retail: Smart Strategies Never Go Out of Style 8 FG TALK In thinking about the future... NEW MEMBERS 9 NEW MEMBERS

THE PUBLICATIONS C O M M I T T E E

Chair Adrienne Youngstein Gruberg, Creative Strategist, AY & A

Co-Chair

Wendy D'Amico Creative Consultant

Committee Arlene Eisner, Cover New York Joyce Kauf, Web Content Strategist Katie Kretschmer, Editor / Contributing Writer Stacy Lomman, Contributing Writer Wendi Winters, Contributing Writer, QuantumStep, Inc.

Graphic Design Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics

Photography Miriam Driot, FGI Director of Special Events Photography Editor

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Eliza Bolen with Superstar Oscar de la Renta Superstar Oscar de la Renta Presenter Jon Bon Jovi with honoree Kenneth Cole Presenter Mary J. Blige with honoree Frida Giannini and co-presenter James Franco Presenter Dita von Teese with honoree Stephen Jones Honoree Catherine Walsh and presenter Gwen Stefani Honorees Frances Berwick and Andrew Cohen for Bravo with presenter Glenda Bailey CONTINUED ON PAGE 2

RISI NG STAR AWARDS

8. Presenter Iman, honoree Michael Kors and guest Aerin Lauder 9. Presenters Hamish Bowles and Grace Coddington 10. Honoree Victoire de Castellane with presenter Dennis Freedman 11. Vera Wang with honoree Catherine Walsh 12. Presenter Fern Mallis with honoree Clodagh 10

N I G H T O F S TA R S Super Star Oscar de la Renta Star Honorees: A meteor shower of flashbulbs greeted designers, stars and industry luminaries as they walked fashion’s premier red carpet at FGI’s Night of Stars on October 22. Under the vaulted ceilings of Cipriani Wall Street, guests enjoyed the restaurant’s signature Bellinis and mixed and mingled in the balcony overlooking the stage where honorees spoke with the press. “It is so important for the industry to salute its stars,” said Fern Mallis, senior vice president, IMG Fashion. “Whether business is good or bad, it brings more attention to the industry and the people in it.” “The Storytellers” was the theme of this year’s event that was hosted by the sneaker-clad Simon Doonan. Cited for weaving a tale of creativity and commitment, the galaxy of honorees included: 2

Fashion - Victoire de Castellane, Frida Giannini, Stephen Jones and Michael Kors Beauty - Catherine Walsh Architecture – Clodagh Corporate Leadership – Renzo Rosso/Diesel Humanitarian Award – Kenneth Cole Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle Award – Bravo Mary J. Blige, Gwen Stefani, Jon Bon Jovi, Emily Rossum, James Franco and many others joined in the festivities. Amid the sparkling celebration, Dr. Valerie Steele, director, The Museum at FIT, put it all in perspective. “The significance of this award is that it reminds the designers of how much they are appreciated by a jury of their peers.”

TRENDS IN THE CREATIVE PROCESS panelists

Parsons The New School for Design, set in the heart of New York’s bustling garment district, set the scene for the program: a WGSN and Fashion Group International trend discussion. Held on September 16th and presented by Parsons, the event drew an audience of well over 100 industry executives and students. Claire Hamilton, WGSN retail and events editor, moderated a panel of five fashion experts in a conversation about the role of fashion trends within the creative process, the marketplace and the consumer’s mind. In his welcoming remarks, the school’s dean, Simon Collins, acknowledged the many Parsons graduates in the audience and, prior to introducing Hamilton, spoke with an intensity of purpose about the work and study of students, driven by passion and undaunted by challenge, as they strive for careers in that most fickle yet rewarding of industries—fashion. Hamilton introduced the panelists: Helen Ficalora, jewelry designer and owner of her eponymous company, whose timeless, natural and organic forms have sparked considerable buzz in the fashion media; Jeff Madalena, co-owner and designer of Oak, purveyor of accessible avant-garde fashion; Nicole Fischelis, group vice president, fashion director and the “voice of” Macy’s; Shana Tabor, designer of the men’s and women’s apparel, leather goods and jewelry sold in her specialty store, In God We Trust; and Steven Faerm, director, BFA Fashion Design at Parsons, who oversees the academic curriculum of the school’s design students. In opening the discussion, Hamilton remarked on the amazing similarities seen throughout the spring/summer 2010 collections, and asked Fischelis how those trends are interpreted for Macy’s customers. The process actually begins nine months prior to season, she explained, when the fashion office begins to look back at what’s been performing in store and ahead at what’s happening on the street, in art, in flea markets, the antiques market and music, as well as on the runways. She said that what counts is not always what one sees: Mood, feelings, emotion and instinct play a major role. Ficalora, who founded her jewelry business at the kitchen table, while simultaneously running her family’s resort in Montauk, said that what’s interesting about trends is how easy it is to get sucked in. “Create your brand and sell yourself,” she said, “because when the trend ends, your business is over.”

Clockwise from top left: Designer Helen Ficalora’s eponymous jewelry collection has sparked media buzz; The Oak stores offer accessible avant-garde fashion, including designs by co-owner Jeff Madalena; Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and fashion director, is the “voice” of Macy’s; designer Shana Tabor in her specialty store, In God We Trust.

So when is the right time to buy into a trend? Shana Tabor only wants to be in on a trend before anyone else is or when it’s no longer a trend. Fischelis sees no magic remedy. Because the Macy’s customer buys close to season, she said, the store planners, who analyze customer reaction to a trend—what’s selling and what’s on the street—are as important as the buyers. “But I like to talk about style.” she continued. “Trends pass; style remains. Develop your own ‘customer style’. It’s interesting to see how women mix and fuse and develop their own style.” In addressing the top-of-mind-concern—the trend known as the recession—Hamilton wondered whether lowering price points hurts a brand. Tabor felt “you undermine yourself” and said that her customer isn’t looking for a lower price point. She may be buying fewer things, but she continues to look for quality. Oak’s Madalena, conceding that buying habits have changed, said that while his customers always want fashion, they’re not willing to pay as much. He and his partner do support young designers and attend their shows, but they’re not taking as many risks on the up and coming talents. He noted that many newer designers and smaller stores haven’t survived, but sees hope for the future in the new talent and fresh ideas that will emerge. Fischelis pointed to value and integrity. “A product that has identity and quality works.” Hamilton asked the panelists to talk about one new trend they’ve seen and liked or find inspiring. For Ficalora, it’s pieces that are meaningful. “What’s inside me is what I should be doing,” she said. People will long for things that are soulful.” Tabor was “really into rhinestones, leopard and turbans with rhinestones.” Fischelis honed in on color as a trend and T-shirts with built-in necklaces.

Appropriately enough, given the setting, the subject turned to Parsons and the young students who, said Faerm, are looking at careers in fashion while still in high school. “By the time they get here,” he said, “they know where they’re going.” Hamilton asked how the recession was making them feel and if it was affecting they way they’re approaching design. According to Faerm, students seem to feel that fashion has become “democratized…everyone can be a designer,” referring to the glut of hip-hop artists, reality show types and socialite wannabes who are pushing into the marketplace (a trend Madalena, for one, hopes to see move on). The students’ mandate, as Faerm sees it, is to inspire the consumer. Education, as he pointed out, is about expanding the mind and challenging the industry. Hamilton asked the panel for any words of advice for the students. Fischelis offered strong words, summing up, it seemed, the collective point of view. “Know your craft,” she stressed. “Know fabric, print, cut and fit. Learn how to do it all yourself. Don’t start your own collection until you’ve worked for the house of a major designer, picking up pins. Be relentless. Be a team player. Stick to your convictions. Learn your fashion history and know who the masters were—Balenciaga and Yves St Laurent. You can draw all you want, but learn how to make something.” Words to the wise from a senior-level fashion professional who knows, from a wide experience in many areas of the industry and long associations with major designers in France, Italy and the U.S., exactly whereof she speaks.

–– Wendy D'Amico

Trend Report Spring/Summer 2010 If Marylou Luther’s discerning eye and expert interpretation of trends and ideas have any bearing on what’s ahead, Spring 2010 looks to be a season of beautifully crafted, wearable and, yes—audible sighs of relief—commercially viable clothes. And, while she and her creative committee saw no major change in fashion direction, they did see real news in the way fashion is communicated and, perhaps, even delivered. Alexander McQueen—whose online techno-show threw a virtual gauntlet in the face of shows as we know them—hopes to be able to deliver clothes at the same time they’re shown in cyberspace, a new approach to the “buy now/wear now” philosophy that designer Donna Karan has so long espoused. Not surprisingly, Karan, “fashion’s favorite agent of change,” targeted the cycle of fashion as the key talking point of the discussion she moderated after the noon showing of FGI’s Spring/Summer Trend overview. Held on November 13th at New York’s Time & Life Building, the audio-visual presentation of the collections shown on the runways of New York, London, Milan and Paris was compiled by FGI Creative Director, Marylou Luther, and her “wonderful and wonderfully talented” creative committee, and written and narrated by Luther. On stage were panelists Linda Fargo, SVP, Bergdorf Goodman; Ikram Goldman, Ikram, Chicago; Jane Larkworthy, beauty director, W; Lincoln Moore, V.P. & DMM, handbags/accessories, Saks Fifth Avenue; and Candy Pratts Price, executive fashion director, Style.com. “It is truly an honor to introduce Donna Karan,” said Luther, pointing to the designer’s career in fashion and her dedication to humanitarian efforts, citing Karan’s FGI Night of Stars Super Star award (the first U.S.-based designer to receive that honor), her six CFDA awards, her spearheading of the CFDA 7th on Sale and Super Saturday initiatives, as well as her buy now / wear now crusade—a campaign garnering international attention. “Why should clothes be marked down seventy percent at the time when they should be worn, and why are consumers learning about Spring when Fall is in stores?” Karan asked, bemoaning consumers’ current sale mentality. “The new hype is ‘get it on sale.’ Consumers have lost the concept of luxury,” she said, “because they can buy luxury products on sale when they are in season.” She asked the panel how they would like to be a conduit of change. Fargo responded that she joins Karan in the buy now /wear now concept, pointing out that now, in the midst of a recession, is the time to rethink everything the industry does. The cycle needs to be re-examined, and consumers need to be re-trained to buy things in season instead of waiting for them to go on sale. 4

Ikram, recognized as one of the most influential people in retail today, explained that her success is based on service, faith in the designers and in the consumer. In her view, fashion is diminished by over-exposure of the merchandise, by retailers not believing in the merchandise and by giving it away. She educates her staff to sell what they believe in, to help customers understand why things cost what they do and to promote the idea that it’s OK to spend money on things of quality, value and longevity. To inspire customers and get them back into stores and shopping again, said Pratts Price, they need to be entertained. Consumers don’t need things; they need to want things. They want relationships with designers and stores; they want to be shown how and why things are made. Moore concurred, explaining that Saks associates are trained to develop personal relationships with customers and invite them to come in and see what’s in store for them and learn about the value of a product, why a product is perfect for them and why they should buy it. The store believes in intimate affairs where customers meet the designers, which Moore said makes them feel better about what they’re buying. And, he said, “We’re trying to get beyond too much merchandise too soon.” Ikram garners unwavering loyalty by offering exceptional service. Once, she said, her store’s alterations department—with the help of the designer who happily supplied extra fabric— managed to create one suit from two for a plus-sized customer. Her mandate is, “Welcome your customers. Tell them they look beautiful. They want you to say they look beautiful.” Because they can now go online and see the collections four or five months before the clothes are delivered, Karan pointed out that consumers are being engaged by the runway rather than what’s in store. “Is there too much information? Is it too much too soon? Is it confusing to the consumer?” she asked the panel.

For Ikram, there’s an upside and a downside to the information highway. Her customers call and ask for things they see on Style.com. They want what’s on the runway while current-season merchandise is still sitting on the floor. But by the time the clothes are actually delivered, they feel they’ve seen them everywhere. In her view, so much information results in the loss of fantasy and the surprise of brand-new, unseen pieces. She recalled working, years ago, at Chicago’s iconic Ultimo boutique, and the excitement —the surprise—of seeing things come out of the box. She misses that excitement and tries to give her staff surprises: things not shown on the runway and the Internet, but rather pieces designers make especially for her store. “When you’re in the news business, it’s about getting the news out. You can’t stop it,” said Fargo. She conceded that, while the Internet has created a whole new world of people interested in fashion, the constant stream of information causes consumers to become over-exposed and sick of the merchandise by the time it gets to the floor. Karan suggested that perhaps one way to combat information overload is to “quiet” the shows, pointing out that one of her most successful seasons, in terms of sell-through, is resort, which is not shown on the runway and garners little or no attention from the media. Fargo said that seventy to eighty percent of her store’s business is done on pre-collections; those not not shown on the runway, produced with little pressure on the designers, which are in store for a reasonable length of time and sell through with few markdowns. She pointed out that tighter inventories will train consumers to “buy it now,” while it’s available, rather than hoping for it to go on sale, which it won’t because it’ll be gone. Ikram agreed; she loves pre-collections. Consumers haven’t seen the clothes anywhere, so they have a longer shelf life, greater sell-through and fewer markdowns. So, if pre-collection is what’s working, Karan asked, CONTINUED ON PAGE 5

RTW COLLECTIONS

1 0t h An nual N at iona l Desi gn Aw a rd s what’s the reason for that and maybe we should be looking at what’s working. Hal Rubenstein, fashion director of InStyle Magazine and an authority on all things pertaining to fashion and style, commented from the floor that, “The key is in Ikram’s word, and the word is ‘surprise’.” He referred to a jacket he’d seen in Karan’s show, which he would have sworn was suede until he got to the showroom and realized it was, in fact, a treated linen. “ Everybody thinks they’ve seen it, but they haven’t,” he said. “Not until you go into the store do you actually see the product. It’s imperative to surprise the consumer.” It would seem that, for the moment anyway, the challenges remain: How to change the mindset of consumers so accustomed to getting things on sale, in season; how to re-engage them and get them back into stores; how to re-ignite the desire to own things of lasting beauty, quality and value and purchase them at prices that reflect the vision, imagination, craftsmanship and creativity that go into their making. How can we inspire them to buy now and wear now with pleasure and delight? “If runway is important, how do you feel about what we saw,” Karan asked the panel. Fargo’s assessment: “Very comprehensive. We felt that there was plenty there; softer volumes; a softness. We felt really good.” “Lots of things for our clients,” said Moore. “We’re thrilled with accessories.” For Ikram, “the quality is there. Dressing to be beautiful and dreamlike: I’m very excited about next season,” she said. On a beauty note, Larkworthy was pleased to see so many gorgeous looks. Yes, clothes are the focus of the shows, she said, but, rather than an after thought, she saw a lot of effort going into hair and makeup looks, and noted that newness in hair and makeup inspires women to go out and buy. “Beauty is all about inspiration,” she said, “it’s about saying, ‘I could try that.’ A successful beauty look on the runway brings inspiration to reality.” The Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear presentation, generously supported by LIM College, Cotton Inc, Ecco Domani Wines of Italy, MAC and Sculptz, is available on DVD, complete with panel discussion, to members and non-members. For more information or to order, call 212.302.5511 or visit info@fgi.org.

–– Wendy D'Amico Creative Consultant / Writer Wendy7d@aol.com

New York is arguably the most eclectic and exciting place in the world. We expect to see a variety of interesting and unique people and celebrities, but it’s not every day that we witness a gathering of Caroline Baumann, such a diverse group encompassing the likes of an acting director, actor, an artist, a newscaster, a CNN anchor, a Smithsonian, chef, a world renowned physicist, a broadcast Cooper-Hewitt, National journalist and fashion designer—all under one roof. Design Museum and On October 22, Cipriani on 42nd Street provided Francisco Costa, the venue for these and other fascinating attendees creative director, of the Tenth Annual National Design Awards. David Calvin Klein Collection. Stark Design & Production created the giant number “10” which was graphically patterned with the names of all the winners and hung just inside Calvin Klein was the master of Americanism. “That’s the entrance. the essence of Calvin Klein,” he said “it’s a tremendous lifestyle brand. I’ve been looking Launched at the White House in 2000 as an official through the archives and he was such a visionary.” project of the White House Millennium Council, The In addition to Fashion, several other design Smithsonian's Cooper-Hewitt, National Design categories were recognized. The winners and Museum celebrates outstanding achievement in presenters were as follows: Corporate and design in various disciplines. First Lady Michelle Institutional Achievement Award to Walker Art Center; Obama served as the honorary patron of the 2009 Product Design Award to Boym Partners; Interaction Awards. This year, Francisco Costa (for Calvin Klein Design Award to Perceptive Pixel Inc., Design Mind Collection) was selected as the winner in the Award to Amory B. Lovins; Lifetime Achievement Fashion Design category. Finalists in this category Award to Bill Moggridge; Communication Design included menswear designer Thom Browne and Award to The New York Times Graphics Department; sisters Karen and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. Design Patron Award to Lincoln Center President Francisco has twice been named Womenswear Reynold Levy; Design Award to TsAO & McKOWN Designer of the Year (in 2006 and 2008) by the Architects; Architecture Design Award to SHoP CFDA and when I asked him how this award Architects; Landscape Design Award to Hood Design; compared, he replied, “It’s an amazing honor to be People’s Design Award to Hans Eckholm, senior recognized by the Smithsonian for design… it’s industrial designer for Trek Bicycles. The People’s different than being judged by my peers in fashion, Design Award allowed the public to vote for their it’s quite a humbling experience.” He added, “You choice of design between September 21 and October don’t do the work to get awards, you do it because 20. The winner (Trek, for the Lime – a coasting bike you love it. If awards come, of course, it’s nice.” for the casual rider) was announced live at the While two CFDA awards are certainly nothing to National Design Awards Gala. Paula Zahn was sneeze at, when it comes to the National Design the evenings emcee and other notable attendees Awards, the requirements and judging are intense. included; broadcast journalist Charlie Rose; artist The 2009 nominations were solicited from a Chuck Close; chef Tyler Florence; artist/writer/ committee of 2,500 designers, educators, director John Waters; designer Ralph Rucci; designer journalists, cultural figures and corporate leaders Eileen Fisher; hotelier Ándre Balazs and John from every state in the nation. Nominees must have Maeda; chair, president of the Rhode Island School at least seven years of experience to be eligible and of Design. winners are select ed based on the level of excellence, innovation and public impact of their The Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design body of work. Mr. Costa’s award was presented Museum is the only museum in the nation devoted by actress and face of Calvin Klein’s latest ad exclusively to historic and contemporary design. To campaigns, Eva Mendes, who did not show up on find out more you can visit www.cooperhewitt.org the red carpet with Costa. I was standing next to a reporter from US Weekly who was hoping to get a –– Stacy Lomman quote from Mendes. “She never talks,” the girl Contributing Writer said. But, Costa was more than gracious and quite willing to chat. “The demographic of America has changed and we’re able to reach a more diverse customer through Eva.” Costa talked about a sense of American style returning to fashion and said that

CAN THE LEOPARD CHANGE ITS SPOTS? Ask the Ultimate Spot Remover

ith an enviable reputation as the “finest c u stom couture cleaner in the world,” Madame Paulette lavishes its expertise and tender loving care on the wardrobes and home textiles of a roster of high-profile (and very particular) clients whose names appear with regularity on the mastheads of magazines, above the title on movie and TV screens and on the labels of some of the world’s most beautiful and extravagant, not to mention fragile, clothes.

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Founded over a half a century ago, the organization operates out of its new and luxurious flagship on New York’s Upper East Side. There, the havoc wrought by water, fire, splashed Champagne, the daily grind of “let’s do lunch” and the odd moth disappears as if by magic. And wait: There’s more. With a staff of skilled tailors (drawn from the ranks of haute couture houses, luxury retailers and specialty boutiques), Mme. Paulette will remodel or reconstruct a favorite outfit or restore a treasured piece to “brand new” condition with

Is there anything else? Well, yes, there is. Shirts and fine linens are returned in pristine perfection through the auspices of their superb hand laundering services, while leathers and furs can be entrusted to the capable hands that clean and repair. Then there’s the Professional Stain Removal Kit; a packet that includes removers for a few of the guiltiest perpetrators, using the same formulas employed by Mme. Paulette on site. It’s available in a safe, convenient and easy-to-stash package that goes wherever mishaps might occur.

Today, Madame Paulette operates under the direction of John Mahdessian whose passion, drive, expertise and vision further the standards of excellence in quality and service established by his parents, Noubar and Ann Mahdessian, those many years ago. “Our ultimate goal,” he says, is to fulfill all our valued clients’ needs and to provide them with total satisfaction. Our innovative services and our patented professional techniques and processes permit us to accomplish this every day.” And he does mean every day. The mischief wrought on a Saturday night can be rushed to intensive care the very next morning because Madame Paulette, bless their hearts, is now open on Sunday from 10:00 A.M. to 3:00 P.M. To find out more, visit www.madamepaulette.com

–– Wendy D'Amico Creative Consultant, Wendy7d@aol.com

VALENTINO THE LAST EMPEROR Valentino the Last Emperor is an intimate, engaging, amusing and quite touching insider’s look at the extraordinary life and work of one of Italy’s richest and most famous men, the couturier Valentino. While the plot does involve the never-ending struggle between art and commerce, the story is really one of creativity, beauty, passion, drive and love. Now available at Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble, on DVD and Blu-Ray, the film runs 96 minutes, and is an exhilarating experience for professional’s working in the fashionand design-related industries, anyone interested in the making of gloriously beautiful, impossibly expensive clothes or who simply enjoys a superbly produced and edited film.

Looking ahead, Steidtmann cited a range of economic factors that point to a more positive economic outlook: • real wages are up at the strongest pace in four years • rebound in the bond and equity markets • household savings soar • contracting consumer debt • pent-up demand However, while the consumer still wants to shop, Steidtmann cautioned that they first need to feel confident about their jobs.

Post-Recession Retail: Smart Strategies Never Go Out of Style The perfect storm that washed away $13 trillion of household wealth caused a fundamental change in the U.S. economy. But not all companies were left shipwrecked and lost at sea. According to Robin Lewis, the winners were those who “saw the storm and recalibrated strategically.” How did they weather this seismic wave and how are they preparing for the future? At the FGI retail symposium, John Fleming, executive vice president and CMO of Walmart, the world’s largest retailer, and Eric Wiseman, CEO of VF Corporation, the world’s largest apparel company, joined industry visionary Paul Charron, former CEO of Liz Claiborne, to explain why “The ‘New Normal’ is ‘Old Hat’ for Winners.” Lewis, head of Robin Lewis Inc. and author of The Robin Report, chaired the December 2 event held at the Hilton New York and led the panelists in a lively and thought-provoking discussion. Carl Steidtmann, chief economist, Deloitte Research, provided an economic overview sprinkled with optimism and wit. In his introduction Lewis identified “two immutable, strategic drivers” that are common to companies that are winners through the recession and into the future. He described the first as almost a “no-brainer.” 1. Live in the consumer’s mind 24/7—from every research methodology to the selling floor.

Emphasis on quality. “The ‘new normal’ is pretty much any day at the office for the winners,” explained Paul Charron, currently a senior advisor at Warburg Pincus LLC. Even with tightening consumer sales and credit and the diminishing market value of companies, the winners are not plotting any “palace revolts or witch hunts.” The focus is on quality and consistency of execution, which reinforces the “cultural values that made their companies special to begin with,” citing Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Urban Outfitters and Tory Burch as examples.

“Fulfilling the unsaid and unmet needs of the customer comes down to the six W’s – who, what, where, when, why they buy and why not.” —Eric Wiseman chairman, president, CEO, VF Corporation

Described by Lewis as the “strategic visionary who rescued Liz Claiborne from the abyss in the early 1990s,” Charron argued for objectivity and the need for leaders to have their “feet firmly planted on the ground.” Stating that “one-dimensional leadership is passé,” he argued that all executives need to understand not only how a product makes money, but how it fails to make money as well.

2. Define the dream and then distribute the product precisely and preemptively—ahead of the competition. It is a combination of best management and vertically controlled supply chains.

Charron’s message that consumer research drives the business was echoed by the other panelists. But Charron emphasized that the winners “know it before they had to” and these integrators understand both the real and perceived value of their product. “They do it faster, smarter and better with more focus on excellence.”

Puritanism versus hedonism. While the economy is relatively flat, Steidtmann predicted that given the consolidations, lean inventories and lean head counts, businesses can expect a 10- to 15-percent gain in profits. More importantly, “the bunker mentality will fade better than expected” because consumers are suffering from “puritanistic fatigue” and want their “inner hedonist” to come out again. Our “inner puritan” comes out in a recession and the media focuses on those regrets. From the gas shortages of the 1970s to after 9/11, it is a pattern that “we have seen time and time again.”

Save money. Live better. Walmart has transformed business in the United S tates with massive segmentation and is now focused on expanding its value proposition—“Save money. Live better.” However, this “unbeatable project” to deliver a better shopping experience at a better price began in 2007—before the recession hit. And while it continues to refine assortments and implement supply chain innovations, John Fleming explained that Walmart is looking ahead to consumer shifts in the next five to 10 years that will impact their business. He anticipates two major changes

that offer potential opportunities: health and wellness for an aging population and multicultural families that cannot be categorized into one group. The Specter of Amazon. “Absolutely” was Fleming’s immediate response to Lewis’ question of whether Walmart fears a brick-and-mortar Amazon store. Yet he and the other panelists believe Amazon would be faced with enormous distribution costs. Still, the threat of Amazon and other online retailers—not to mention technological changes—has forced Walmart to rethink how it communicates with the customer. One of the challenges of getting customers to “shop the box” is that “the customer is now in the middle and all have access to the brand,” said Fleming. Taking part in a digital dialogue, even via smartphone, is a way to interact and be responsive to the customer. Having started as a manufacturing company, VF was in a “good position” to weather the storm, explained Eric Wiseman. Like Walmart, its plan for growth preceded the current economic debacle. In 2003, research pointed to an aging population that would “punish” VF’s existing business model. Wiseman recognized the company needed to position itself to meet the demands of the under-35 population and began a targeted approach that resulted in the acquisition of 7 For All Mankind, Northface and Nautica that are among the 30 brands in its portfolio. Wiseman advocated “talking face-to-face” with customers. He acknowledged the two-way street in sharing information with key retailers such as Walmart but emphasized the importance of their own retail stores as testing grounds for in-store merchandising concepts. VF has 750 retail stores worldwide with combined sales of $1.3 billion. A Shift to Sustainability. In 2004, Walmart embarked on a dedicated program that integrated well with its own value proposition in improving product quality and lowering price. “We have complete transparency from the source of the product through the supply chain,” explained Fleming. Walmart shares this information with its partners so they in turn can encourage sustainability efforts with their own suppliers. Interestingly, Walmart’s research showed that 92 percent of its carbon footprint came from the supply chain and not its transportation network. Fleming noted that while the mass market is more focused on jobs and health care, Walmart’s efforts to reduce its carbon footprint is a viable platform to connect with the next generation. Changing demographics, emergent technology and the demands of corporate social responsibility poses challenges and opportunities. Yet, regardless of the economic climate, there are certain practices that seem to be intuitive to winners. “It’s all business as usual,” said Charron. “You have refine, contemplate and evolve—and keep your feet moving.” —Joyce Kauf Creative Content Strategist joycekauf@gmail.com

Looking ahead by looking back, the presentation referenced the Fall / Winter season of 2008 /2009.

IN T H INKING A BO UT T H E FU T UR E… “In these confusing times, Li Edelkoort’s insight on the big picture of future world markets and consumer attitudes has a very grounding and inspiring effect on all of us in the design industry…” – Emmanuelle Linard And so it does. The Firehouse, set in New York’s East Village, is exactly what its name suggests: a former firehouse reconfigured…pristine, spare and immaculate in its whiteness to house the US headquarters of futurist Li Edelkoort’s Trend Union. There, on June 30th, Fashion Group International and Trend Union hosted an audio-visual presentation of Edelkoort’s forecast for Spring/Summer 2010. Billed as an important overview of cultural and sociological trends and their application to fashion, global lifestyle and the way we will look and present ourselves in the season ahead, the program was presented by Emmanuelle Linard, director of Trend Union’s US operations.

Reacting to a global society in the grip of fear––of war, of a faltering economy, of viruses, extremists, food poisoning—the list goes on—the fashion and design communities offered “protective clothing.” Swathed in layers, wrapped in scarves and sheltered under hats, the fearful consumer went “under cover.” Then, with the blooming of Spring 2009, came a shift. A world we aried by the black and white of sociological extremes began to venture out from under the cloud of fear and plugged itself into a spirit of optimism, creativity, sustainability and the values of simpler, less troublesome times. Trend Union’s able forecasters predicted this spirit would continue to resonate in the minds of designers as they prepared their collections for the F a l l/ Winter 2009/2010 season. Even though the economy was in a downward spiral and consumers seemed to have stopped shopping, what retailers and editors sensed on the runways of every fashion capital was a glimmer of confidence, a look on a brighter side evidenced by innovative new ways with fabrics, a certain exuberance in pouffed, puffed and bubbled skirts, dazzling embellishment and eye-popping jolts of color––the fiery reds, cathedral purples, pinks and lemony yellows in the broad, brilliant strokes that so enliven and invigorate.

Looking ahead to Spring/Summer 2010, the forecasters see the spirit of optimism continuing, along with a trend shifting away from reality toward an enchanting world of fantasy and illusion. Some of the themes and ideas illustrated in the presentation were translucent, effervescent fabrics, in shades of paper and cardboard; the airiest of fabrics, pleated, layered, crinkled, wrinkled, folded and unfolded, that seem to float away into thin air. Gardens in those ephemeral, watercolor shades that hold the promise of spring are a source of inspiration while the halcyon days of childhood are recalled in storybook dresses and fairy tale prints. Arts and crafts–– painting, sketching, etching, collage, scribbles scratched out in ball-point colors, and folkloric and ethnic themes lend themselves to fabrics and patterns. Grecian, Roman and Empire influences are seen in romantic draped and fluid dresses while embroidery and the a “mended” look also suggest the passage of time. The ideas continued to flow; these are just a few of the predictions expected to become the reality of the season ahead. And beyond this remarkable audio-visual –so captivating in its extraordinarily beautiful, painterly, artistic, sometimes esoteric, images, is a mandate: Envision. Imagine. Create. Enjoy. Which is, of course, what Trend Union is all about. –– Wendy D'Amico Creative Consultant, Wendy7d@aol.com

W H A T ’ S G O I N G O N ? The FGI calendar of upcoming events, previously printed on the pages of the Bulletin, is now found on the web site only, where it’s updated weekly. Check in frequently for updates on all the exciting programs and events you’ll want to attend. www.fgi.org N E W New York Peter S. Acerra Ilene Pearl Bannwart Linda Barrett* Maria Basquil Katherine Bates Carly Battams* Dina Battipaglia Julie Baxt* Hana Ben-Shabat Monica Benner* Kate Betts Neha Bhardwaj* Mona Bijoor Jedda-Kahn Blue-El* Jeremy Brandrick

Lynette Harrison Brubaker Astrid Brucker* Jenna Caccavo Catia Carvalho-Trooskin Elene Cassis* Josephine Cavalier Arsha Cazazian Sheherazade Chamlou Jose Chan Cha Chang* Monika Chapa Alejandra Cicognani Margie Connelly Anna Davis* Sara Delaney

Martin Diment Claudette Dixon Julie Ehlers Lauren Fisher Ursula Flurer Jill Friedson Ragna Frodadottir Danilo Gabrielli Hernan Garcia* Nina Garcia Conrod Jill Granoff Carly Guerra* Carla Hazel Sachie Hirayama Kathleen Hodge* Christina Hoedeman

M E M B E R S Brendan Hoffman Cory Ingram Guillaume Jesel Blaise Kavanagh Scott Kestenbaum Tracy King David Kistner Alison Koplar Stacy Lomman Colin Marshall* Annette McEvoy Michelle McKinley Kathy Mills Geri Moran Deborah Moses Alexandria Nahlous

Natalie Nelson Rebecca O’Donnell Shirley Paden-Bernstein Tiffany Plater Janice Richter Maria Risso* Dawn Robertson Jodi Rose Evie Sanika* Rolando Santana Ilene Shaw Lucinda Slater* Toni Sotelo Alta Sparling* Jennifer Swanson

Nancy-Jeanne Prohaska Thompson Joseph Ungoco Victoria Vandagriff Lauren Volpe Steven Wang Britta B. Wheeler Yuna Yang* Marie Zipprich* Arizona Nicole Bissing Robert Burg Terri Camberlango Mary Farag* Kimberly A. Givnish

Meagan Novak* Julie Parchesky Peggy Purnell Alina Samasiuk* Christine Siegel Christina Tarrant Autumn-Lynn Tummavichakul* Atlanta Zina Arthur Rachel Franco* Angelica Mann* Romina Nabhen Lauryn Prattes* CO NTINUED ON PAGE 9

Linda A. Silber Susan H. Smith Laurie Viglione Nicola Watson Angela Watts* Boston Tracy Aiguier Leatrice O’Neal Gerard Vallecello Laura Wilson* Chicago Alisa Caron Amanda Day* Tess Dunlap* Jenny GerstPfanenstiel* Jessica Giesen* Bridget Halanski Christopher Hedden* Sarah Hervey Anka Jedry* Agnieszka Lema-Joffre Jamie Marconi Lara Miller Denise O’Handley Kate Schaefer Rachel Schildkraut* Victoria Sdoukos Victoria Sinon Susan Strawn Pamela Vanderlinde Erin Wells* Michele Wicker Cleveland Dorothea Kingsbury Susan McFeely Danielle Weiner* Colombia Veronica Contreras Torres Lina Granados Liliana Ladino Lozano Juan Antonio Olarte Ana Maria Ortiz Luisa Fernanda Rey Juan Pablo Socarras Yani Andrea Tabares Arango Catherine Villota Columbus Mark Bijak Ruth Cooney Beth Hillier Allison Kennedy* Chantel McKenzie Neale Pickering Jennifer Salopek Katy Walker Esther Weisman John Wirchanski

Dallas Julia R. Andalman Mo Bowers Karen Bravo Julia Bustos* Laura Chapuis Rachel Courts* Kenneth Craighead Patti Flowers Rene Geneva Yoana Ghimbasan Amy Gottenberg Lisa Greene Rebecca Greywall Charita Jemerson Rani Khamesra Barbara Kille Colbie Lake* Jerri Loffredo Peter Phillips Jeana Plas* Jessica StrubelScheiner Gena Terranova* Susie Gray Uphues Myra Walker Denver Janna Butler-Hebel* Lenora Chavez* Keri Christiansen Janice Washburn Gates Holli Gibson Patsy Krechel Rachel M. Lefort Lana Phoenix J. Chad Sophia Suiter Jan R. Top Whitney Upchurch* Dana Van Daele Delane Vanada Lisa Wax Peggy Ziglin Detroit Bethany Beckham* Joanne Haberman Lena Piskorowski Inessa Yelizarova Houston Kelly Anzilotti Champa Bhatia Doug Carter Ruth Coady* Judy Hunt Rhonda Light Kamran Mansoury Jennifer Medina* Lindsey Mehne* Sean O’Connell Kathryn O’Connor* Gladys Rivera Marie Scanlin

Susan Silverman Vickie Snow Joanne Swartz Krystal Thomas Holly Thompson Evelyn M. Urrutia* Indianapolis Bobbi Belongia* Monique Hawkins Gabrielle Poshadlo Christine Talevski Judy Titche Kansas City Katherine Brown* Deborah Gipson Rebecca Taylor* London Anne Agoren Los Angeles Sandrine Abessera Diana Andersen* Cesar Arellanes Melissa Beal Gilles Bendenoun Janine Blain Sarah Boyer Yvette Charlton* Lourdes Chavez Linda Chenault Marion Chereau Justin Coverick Simone Dole Andy Domin* Toni Ferrara Ann Fong Gia Gennuso* Sylvia Gonzales Leonard Gordon Joanna Hadfield Theresa Harris Kimberly HarveyColeman Eileen Huah* Carisa Janes Won Kim* Kevin Krieser Jonathan Kuai* Madeline Leonard Lia Kay Miller Nora Minassian Shalini Sarna Mistry Allie Nelson* Mary Ann Nevers* Amara Ononiwu* Gil Ostrick Michelle Sackson* Alexandra Scoggin* Ari Sheuhmelian Jeet Sohal Trend Tran

Robin Wagner Rebecca Welch Dorothy Woglom Gili Wolf* Sheneka Woods* Members-at-Large Blair Brown (Alaska) Tracy Ferland (Vermont) Terrie White (Wisconsin) Mexico City Edgar Aceves Alejandra Albarran Raquel Alva Shula Atri Edith Brabata Luz Maria Carrera Carpizo Meivy Cavazos Ana Rosa Checa Budib Gonzalez Marcela De Los Rios Angelica Doormann Nicolas Felizola Pedro Oscar Figueroa Escorcia Renee Fraga De Marin Benjamin Gonzalez Ordonez Adriana Guerrero Castro Luz Maria Gutierrez Deaibis Claudia Herrera Jesus Ibarra Y Bertholdo Lucy Lara Leticia Llera Martinez Paulina Lopez Daniela Lozano Padilla Jessica McFarland Pellico Silvia Mancilla Ascencio Alejandra Manzur Garcia Paulette Marcus Ernesto Rafael Martinez Bermudez Cecilia Mauries Pilar Milego Lorena Moreno Garza Juan Carlos Munoz Garcia Edvard Nielsen Liza Niles Martha Elizabeth Perez Jacinto

Clara Ruiz-Esparza Diaz Roberto Salmon Yolanda Sanchez Mauricio Serrano Patricia Simon Edith Gertrudiz Tovar Martinez Martha Patricia Trujillo Sepulveda Ana Maria Vera Bravo Andrea Weber Minneapolis/St. Paul Betsy Bennis* Trista Brazier Tim Creagan Jacquelyn Johnston Jean McElvain* Ghislaine Miller Lin Nelson-Mayson Robyne Robinson Lisa Swan Victoria Terry Sherry Walker North Florida Richard Rosenblum Palm Springs Helen Anderson Loretta Ferraro Jessica Surrett* Roselyn Viramontes Boni Wall Paris Anne ChampagneLafargue Nicolas Delarue Brigitte Esnoult Nathalie Filbet Fournis Bouchra Jarrar Marie Lise Jonak Helen Lambert Florence Lapierre Nicolas Maubert Mireille Moundi Dominique Quesada Philadelphia Mary Beth Bogan Nakia Henry* Lucila Lawrence Vincent Polisano Jeanne Rihm Maria Cecilia Stoeckicht Sarah Van Aken Linda Wisch Saint Louis Ginny Baldridge Terie Bray* Melissa Rae Brown*

Bold type indicates FGI members in all articles.

Karen Sansone Caradonna* Nicole Deptula* Emily W. Huey Laura K. Planck* Jen Sertl Richard Tao San Antonio Theresa Alexander Lalon Alexander Melinda Andrew Camilla Basse Karla E. Bonilla* Sathedia Bush Marie D. Cordova Tami Crawford* Rita Crosby Angel de la Vega Perry Donop, Jr. Angela Gonzalez Ricardo Gutierrez John Hanesworth Jennifer Hargrove Carrie Harrell Angelina Mata Starley Murray Lari Nelson Melissa Passmore* Stacy Lee Lopez Penner Dr. Carla Perez Jonnelle Fisher Post Michael Quintanilla Cynthia Rangel Cynthia Rubsamen Donna Rullo Deborah Amar Schneider Shirley Wills Jennifer Zertuche* San Diego Tina Alvarez* Gordana Gehlhausen San Francisco Matti Bourgault Vicky Chen Joy Chen-Kolterman William Ellis* Nicola Ferenz* Debra Laspina Goldwater Roger Kolterman Trish Lassart Lee Anne Mager Morris Espanola Perry-Jones* Janie Schwartz* Marieke Van Der Poel Seattle Mike Adams Danielle Bortone-Holt

Melissa Figiel* Giuseppe Grazioli Cabanne Schlafly Howard Marine Kleven Cameron Levin* Sydney Mintle Michael Todd Smith Clay Warner South Florida Clarissa Barth Valerie Biener Lynda De Vita Saul Kapilivsky Mariana Ljoen* Tatiana Nedosekova Laura Pimentel* Ronit Singer Lois A. Thomas Melodie Veverka* Sydney Gina Constantine Colin Foy Nicola Hazzell Katrina Skinner Pam Trantalies Tokyo Naoko Yamashiro Toronto Gayle Estabrooks Amanda Kruzich Dandi Maestre* Joseph Mimran Celeste Ramos* Linda Rees-Shaw Elen Steinberg Brad Tandy Michelle Veilleux Joanna Whitfield Hana Zalzal Washington, D.C. Lisa Amans Sloane Brown Karen Cringoli Anais De Viel Castel Stephany Greene Casie Kiel* Vincent Licari Kristin McMahon* Jenna Redeen* Fresia Rodriguez* Shazia Sami* Dana Sherwood Angela Taylor* Aimee Wedlake *associate member