Stella Magazine by Becky Tunstall

CONTENTS

24 November 2011

From the editor

The cold and bitterness of this week has had me wrapped up warm. So we have given you some winter warmers to ensure you have a snuggly winter. Henrietta Atkinson a model, an actress capable of steeling the show every time and business women ready to conquer the world has come back onto the scene and looks fabulous in our .BOYMEETSGIRL. shoot. Furthermore, we look into androgynous fashion, does it empower women or is it simply just a fashion statement.

Rebecca Tunstall

EDITOR Rebecca Tunstall DEPUTY EDITOR Lizzie Rix ART DIRECTOR Jessica Karan FASHION DIRECTOR Louise Domaille PICTURE EDITOR Rebecca Tunstall FEATURES EDITOR Rebecca Tunstall DEPUTY PICTURE EDITOR Lauren Paterson DEPUTY FASHION AND BEAUTY EDITOR Sophie Stewart FASHION ASSISTANT Caroline Currie/Rebecca Tunstall PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Charlie Gledhil 020 7931 3350

The Sunday Telegraph 111 Buckingham Palace Road London SW1W 0DT 020 7931 2000 stella@telegraph.co.uk Online For more of the best fashion,features and beauty visit telegraph.co.uk/fashion

COVER: Henrietta Atikinson, photographed by Rebecca Tunstall. Dress by H&M, Zara and Kurt Geirger

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Fashion & Beauty

6 STELLA LOVES...What to do, see and buy this week 8 FASHION .Boymeetsgirl.

Features

18 ANDROGYNOUS FASHION Empowerment or a Fashion Statement?

CONTRIBUTORS

LOUISE DOMAILLE

JESSICA KARAN

Actress turned photographer turned art director. You may remember Jessica for her stunning performance in the film My Love. She has said that she has always had a passion for the art world. Her amazing photography has been displayed in a London Gallery in Shoreditch and is worth looking at. Favorite heels? Stella McCartney platforms, I love them so much I bought two pairs. What were you doing this time last year? Photographing Sydney Harbor bridge.

She has styled all the top names from Kate Moss to Gary Barlow. Working with Vogue really got her name noticed, styling some amazing spreads. All the quirky shops in London crave Louise to visit and we feel honored that she styled our shoot. What food can’t you live withHENRIETTA ATKINSON out? Marmite, I even eat it on flat-jack. The socialite, model, actress and up and comWhat colored underwear are ing business women Henrietta Atkinson has you wearing? been on the modeling scene for years. Doing Red. shoots for Vogue, Elle and ID. She has modeled at LFW and NYFW and is a face that won’t be forgotten. Recently she has started her own underwear line that has just launched in Selfridges and is defiantly a must see. What is the most you’ve spent on an item which you’ve never worn? I bought a leather jacket from Balaciaga costing about £2500 that I’ve never worn, in fact it still has the labels on it. Favorite heels? Hmmmm have to be my black sling back Christian Louboutin’s, they go with everything and never let me down.

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FASHION

• Black BLOUSE, £25.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Beige SHORTS, £32.00, by Topshop (www.topshop.co.uk) • Black cropped JACKET, Vintage • Black HEELS, £95.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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FASHION

.BoyMeetsGirl. The evolving fashion trend strikes again.... Fashion by Louise Domaille. Photographs by Rebecca Tunstall.

• Cream BLOUSE, £22.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Black JEANS, £15.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Tweed JACKET, by Zara (www.zara.com) • Tanned BOOTS, £160.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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FASHION

• Cream BLOUSE, £22.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Black JEANS, £15.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Tweed JACKET, £50.00 by Zara (www.zara.com) • Black BRACES, £15.00 by Topman (www.topman.co.uk) • Tanned BOOTS, £160.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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FASHION

• Black BODY, £22.00, by ASOS (www.asos.com) • Black cord TROUSERS, £120.00, by Jaeger (www.jaeger.co.uk) • Faux snake skin JACKET, £45.00 by Zara (www.zara.com) • Makeup, LIPSTICK, cockney, £13.50 MASCARA, Opulas Optimum Black, £13.50 EYELINER, Fluidline, £13.50 BRONZER, Bronzing power, Golden, £17.50 FOUNDATION, Studio fix fluid spf 15, £19.50 by MAC (www.maccosmetics.co.uk)

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FASHION

• Orange stripped BLOUSE, £35.00, by Zara (www.zara.com) • Black cord TROUSERS, £120.00, by Jaeger (www.jaeger.co.uk) • Black BRACES, £15.00 by Topman (www.topman.co.uk) • Black HEELS, £95.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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FASHION

• Orange stripped BLOUSE, £35.00, by Zara (www.zara.com) • Black cord TROUSERS, £120.00, by Jaeger (www.jaeger.co.uk) • Black BRACES, £15.00 by Topman (www.topman.co.uk) • Black BOW TIE, £20.00 by Topman (www.topman.co.uk) • Black HEELS, £95.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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FASHION • Black BODY, £22.00, by asos (www.asos.com) • Black cord TROUSERS, £120.00, by Jaeger (www.jaeger.co.uk) • Faux snake skin JACKET,£45.00 by Zara (www.zara.com) • Black HEELS, £95.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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FASHION

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FASHION • Cream BLOUSE, £22.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Black JEANS, £15.00, by H&M (www.hm.com/gb) • Tweed JACKET, £50.00 by Zara (www.zara.com) • Black BRACES, £15.00 by Topman (www.topman.co.uk) • Tanned BOOTS, £160.00 by Kurt Geiger (www.kurtgeirger.com)

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A DECADE OF ANDROGYNY

Androgynous Fashion Rebecca Tunstall looks into whether androgynous fashion is about equality or fashion. Androgynous fashion, to make women feel equal or just a fashion statement? Fashion at the moment is oozing androgyny, Chanel’s cruise 2011/2012 line has many androgynous pieces similar to Yves Saint Laurent. Dolce and Gabbana’s ad campaign shouts out androgyny with their shoot containing female models dressed as boys and girls. Matthew Williamson’s S/S 2012 collection has amazing dresses teamed up with tailored jackets sporting powerful shoulders. Balmain power shoulder jackets, who could forget them, beautifully tailored with androgyny written all over them. Giorgio Armani stated “Androgynous today means that men and women have the same attitude towards what they want to wear,... It’s not unisex dressing, but more the idea that you can see a jacket on a women in this show, which you can just as easily see on a man.” 18 stella

It excites me that androgyny is fashionable as I love teaming a bow tie with a shirt and jacket or tying some ribbon round a collar. 2011 fashion is far more androgynous than the 18th century as fashion has evolved and will continue to evolve. A famous Australian male model by the name of Andrej Pejic who only really became famous in 2010 for being on both male and female runways is the definition of the word androgyny. He has long blonde hair and delicate features and is currently the talk of the fashion industry. He has graced the circuit from Milan to Paris to England to New York and when first scouted was mistaken for being a girl. There are plenty of androgynous models, for example the other day I was reading a 2011 September English Vogue magazine and I was convinced that the model was male, which I found strange being that it was a female magazine. In fact it was the model Sojourner Morrell, her androgynous look is very convincing and is similar to Andrej Pejic, in that they portray the opposite sex very well. But where did this fashion trend come from or start, who decided ‘ I look good dressing as

Clockwise from Above Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich

a man or dressing androgynouslywill empower me.’ If we look back in history there are many prominent figures who adopted the androgynous fashion and way of life. For example Joan of Arc, as her style caused her to be banned from going to mass and to receive communion, due to her not dressing in women’s clothing. Many said she was breaking God’s law, but surely dressing like a man, she prevented being noticed on the battle field? She was trying to be equal, unrecognisable and accepted. Joan’s fashion influenced John Galliano in his 2006 fall collection. The model’s were dressed in oversized armor and had braided hair which reminded every one of Joan of Arc. Victorian fashion could also been seen to have an androgynous twist to it. Women in jackets with powerful shoulders and donning bow ties. Dolce and Gabanna’s fall 2009 tuxedo jackets had a similar resemblance. The Victorian equestrian dress also has an androgynous feel with a high collared shirt, jacket and a top hat. However was this a way to be equal to men?

I believe it was more comfort and style not a question of being judged like Joan of Arc. Coco Chanel once said “Elegance does not consist of putting on a new dress”. She was the lady I believe responsible for bringing androgyny to fashion. In 1913, a state of independence was seen in her style, a way to show women could be successful without a husband. World War one had a massive influence on this style, women were athletic, worked, participated in sports and drove cars. In the 1920’s she launched the modern fashion of ‘tomboy.’ The shape of a women was disguised, no breast, buttocks or waist just the freedom of movement that was needed. She wanted to liberate women through fashion. Coco wanted women to feel equal, she changed the standard dress of a corsets to a suit jackets and straight cut skirts. A revolution that is still evident into today’s fashion. Flapper girls adopted this androgynous fashion, short boy hair cuts, straight clothing and flattened breast. Many described the fashion as similar to a small boy.

Above clockwise Grace Jones, Prince

A DECADE OF ANDROGYNY

Giorgio Armani stated “Androgynous today means that men and women have the same attitude towards what they want to wear,... It’s not unisex dressing, but more the idea that you can see a jacket on a women in this show, which you can just as easily see on a man.”

Other very influential figures, are Marlene Dietrich a women who’s dress shocked the more conservative. In the early 1930’s she dressed in an androgynous fashion, tux, bow tie and top hat. However shortly after her style was copied branding her a style icon.Katherine Hepburn can also be remembered for her androgynous style, wide legged trousers and none existent makeup. The star of the 1970’s film Annie Hall, Diane Keaton reintroduced the androgynous style with costumes for the film designed by Ralph Lauren. Shortly after in the 1980’s the Marlene wide shouldered suit returned as a Fashion trend not to be missed. This way of dressing empowered women in the 1900. I do think there was a massive element of fashion involved, they weren’t just dressing in an androgynous way to feel equal. There is an element of sexiness when you dress in an androgynous fashion, empowering yes but women look smart, sexy as if they could achieve anything.

Another androgynous element in history is the pop culture. David Bowie, Prince, Grace Jones, Michael Jackson, Boy George, Annie Lennox, Marilyn Manson the list goes on. In the early 1980’s Boy George was probably the first to make cross dressing popular. Was it to stand out in the crowd? All these pop sensations weren’t taking to the androgynous fashion to be empowered, they were simply doing it to stand out in a competitive crowd. Grace Jones’s square cut hair, angled clothing and over the top makeup defines androgyny, it made her stand out, she’s remembered in history for her hair cut. A hair cut that became extremely popular with young black men at that time. Michael Jackson isn’t

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A DECADE OF ANDROGYNY remembered for wearing makeup, having long curly hair or wearing tight clothing. But he did give the androgynous impression. Unlike the other pop sensation Michael was remembered for his music, standing out in the crowd helped him massively but I think his music did it all. However if Prince hadn’t gone with the androgynous look of eye liner, pale make up, ruffled shirts and his feminine hair, would he be the big name that he is today? Once again he stood out in the crowd, he was different. Yes his music was/is amazing and he is a great performer but I think once again the androgynous trend has helped Prince to reach his fame. Still today the androgynous look in pop stars is still evident. Lady Gaga’s alta ego, Jo Calderone first came to light in the Japanese male Vogue magazine in autumn/winter 2010. At first no one knew it was Lady Gaga, although throughout the interview he hinted; “I was born this way.” However I do not believe this is an act to help Gaga’s career, I think it is simply just a personality, a performer used as part of the Gaga show. She will not be remembered for having an alter ego similar to Beyonce’s Sasha Fierce, she will be remembered for her music and over the top dress sense. If we look at today’s fashion, androgyny is evident everywhere. Still I’m wondering do women take to this style so they are not looked down on at work, and so they are treated like everyone else or is it simply a fashion statement. In history it was seen as a way to be empowered, treated like a man and to have equality. When I asked numerous people who have taken to this fashion, the primary reason they had chosen to dress like a boy they answered ‘it’s 20 stella

fashionable.’ Many celebs have taken to this fashion, Rihanna, Alexa Chung, Madonna, Rachel Bilson, Kristen Stewart, Tilda Swinton and many more. It is no secret that celebs are trend setters, constantly photographed and put into magazines with a list of what they are wearing. However I do believe there is an element of empowerment still in this trend. If a women goes into the office in a short skirt and low cut top, is she taken as seriously as a women who is dressed in a shirt and suit? I don’t think so, men will flirt with women in the low cut tops and short skirts instead of taking them seriously sometimes causing sexual harassment. Now would sexual harassment be an issue if women were dressed in an androgynous style, possibly not.

Above Andrej Pejic, below clockwise Jo Calderone Lady Gaga’s alta ego, Alexa Chung

I have many clothes in my closet that could be seen as being androgynous, but its fashionable and I love the fashion. I think there’s arguments to both side of the question does it empower or is it simply a fashion statement. However I think the trend is fantastic and I believe that in this day and age it is a fashion trend, that I hope lives on for many years.

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