6 minute read
Gardening
AN ANNUAL FIESTA
I’ve always loved an annual. From Bunty to The Blue Peter Annual, they were crammed full of interest and fun. As I grew older my taste in annuals has become more horticultural. One little pack of seeds is now my gardening equivalent of the Beano - a brief shelf-life and packed with colour.
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Hardy annuals are the most obliging. They don’t need a propagator or a greenhouse, or even a windowsill; all they need is a sunny spot and some well-drained soil. Just sprinkle the seeds in the ground and you can look forward to a fiesta of summer colour for very little work.
The choice of plants and hue is wide. If blue is your thing try a soft shade of love-in-a-mist, or a vivid blue cornflower, or the most gorgeous tiny phacelia. For pinks try a fluffy clarkia or delicate godetia. Nasturtiums span the colour wheel from cream through yellow and orange to deep red.
Annual doesn’t mean small either. Both larkspurs and amaranthus are tall and elegant, and cleomes which also provide height probably only need to be planted once as they are prolific self-seeders!
Look around your garden for gaps in beds and borders which are in a sunny spot and well-drained.
Don’t plant when it’s cold or the soil is wet and sticky. Wait until the weather is mild and soil is damp and crumbly, then fork it lightly to break it up. Use a rake to create shallow furrows, sprinkle the seeds over and rake them gently in, raking across the furrows to cover them. Bigger seeds like nasturtiums can be pushed into the soil a couple of centimetres deep and 10-15cm apart. Label the area so you know what should come up.
The biggest enemy of the newly-planted hardy annual seed is the domestic cat! They love a patch of freshly raked soil, and will happily do their business in your handiwork and then kick up all your seeds without a second thought. Thwart the moggies by laying twiggy pea sticks over the area (and particularly twiggy and thorny prunings will do!). Remove them with the shoots are big enough or stand them up and use them to support the taller annuals.
Thin them out a little to one plant per 10cm and water them if the weather is very dry. You don’t need to feed them, they flower best when the soil is not rich. Food and manure will favour leaf production whereas we’re after flowers and lots of them!
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STORM & WIND DAMAGE TO TREES
Following high winds it is important to have you trees checked for potential defects that could lead to your trees failure. Large trees in prominent location need to be inspected on annual basis. Tree owners have a “Duty of Care” to ensure their trees are safe which will also help should a tree fail and an insurance claim is made.
Prevention of damage is always favourable but trees should also be checked following high winds.
What to look for
Key indicators of tree damage and failure are: • Cracks and splits in structural sections of the tree. • Roots lifting at the base of the stem • Brok en limbs in the canopy
Structural damage can be limited with regular pruning, structural supports and preventative maintenance.
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