The
Belfry
Bulletin
THE JOURNAL OF THE BRISTOL EXPLORATION
No. 39
1950
September
Starting Cave Photography By D.A. Coase This article is intended to help those members whose first attempts at Cave photography have not been too happy, and who may, perhaps, therefore have become discouraged, or blamed their cameras for the failure to get good photographs. This is not usually justified, as any camera which will take good pictures out of doors (that means any camera, in fact) can be used for cave work. Perhaps it should be explained here that the more expensive and more complicated cameras are designed to enable a wider range of subjects to be tackled than is possible with the simpler models, and for this reason are essential for some cave shots as they are for certain open air subjects. In many cases cameras with expensive wide aperture lenses have to be ‘Stopped down’ to give the required depth of focus, which immediately puts them on an equal footing with the simpler cameras. We shall therefore assume that you have one of these simpler cameras, and that you are sufficiently experienced in its use to turn out reasonably good photographs out of doors. If you feel that you are not, then, then a few rolls of film used in getting to know your camera, and a shilling or two spent on one of the many excellent little books now available will be well worth while. In going through this process you will almost certainly find that there are some things that just cannot be done with your camera, and the same limitations will, of course, apply with equal force underground. Therefore don’t waste film or invite discouragement by trying to take photographs that just can’t be taken with you apparatus - keep within its limitations and it won’t let you down. To sum up, any camera can be used for cave photography, provided you know how to use it, and exactly what it can’t be expected to do. With regard to films, there is perhaps now even more choice than many of us were accustomed to before the War, but with this difference, that the brand one is used to can’t always be obtained. It is therefore almost a counsel of perfection to suggest sticking to the film you always use, but if you can do so, it will be found well worth while. If you haven’t a favourite film, either Verichrome or Selochrome will be found as good as any to start with, as they are specially made to cope with slight errors in exposure, and are quite ‘fast’ enough for most purposes. For lighting there are several methods which have been used, but the commonest and one of the cheapest is undoubtedly flash-powder. This can be bought in small quantities of ½ or 1 ounce, and should be mixed used carefully according to the instructions printed on the packet. You must be particularly careful to keep both the powder and the touchpaper dry, and your own ingenuity will no doubt suggest a suitable method of doing this - you'll be wanting a container for the camera which can be relied on to keep water and mud out, in any case, and of course you’ll need something to light the touchpaper. If you can carry it, (or, much better, persuade someone else to carry it) you will find a tripod very useful, as otherwise you may hay have some difficulty finding somewhere really suitable to put the camera for the shot you want to take. A tripod also helps to keep the camera clean, as well as holding it quite steady during the actual exposure. In taking a cave photograph, the usual sequence of operations is 1. Choose the Subject; 2.Put the camera in position; 3. Put the flash in Position; 4. Open the camera shutter; 5. Fire the flash; 6. Close the shutter; 7. Wind on the film; these are dealt with in order as follow: -