l P a
ne
t RadI kal
O r t h e G e n e s i s o f t h e M u ta n ts b y B e l l a R a di ka l
lairotide
editorial
Planet earth was full of waste and overflown with garbage. Attempts to burn or recycle the infinite loads of trash failed and the only solution was to find a safe place to put what mankind did not need anymore. Scientists came up with the plan to clean our planet and transport all futilities to another planet. This radical step initiated the search for a suitable heavenly body and what they created is Planet Radikal – a cold wasteland, far enough away to get rid of all the toxic waste, bulky scrap and other unnecessary stuff.
Gradually the lunarscape transformed into a landfill. Spaceship after spaceship dumped more and more piles of waste and unwanted items on Planet Radikal. H o w e v e r, o n b o a r d o f t h e s p a c e s h i p s w e r e not only things...
Autumn / Winter 2016
contents
stnetnoc
Ins piration
Page 6 to 7
Photog raphy
Page 14 to 35
M o o d B oa r d
A S pac e O dys s e e
A little journey through my mind in Pictures. Nature, Design, Contemporary Art, Sci-Fi and current environmental influences that inspired me to create the world of Planet Radikal.
The take off to Planet Radikal. Agravic Mutants. The result of the self-made destruction and its consequents of the damnation of the created innocent species.
Concept
Desig n
Page 8 to 13
Page 36 to 63
P l a n e t R a di k a l
c o l l ect io n
How human beings will be creating Planet Radikal? The story of a fantastical but possible dystopia reclined to the exploitation and pollution of our planet earth up to the science of genetic eneneering.
Visualization and illustration of each „Mutant“ outfit with photos from the catwalk performance vs. the insect it was inspired by. Including the material concept and a little making of insight.
pLANET rADIKAL
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concept
P
tpecnoc
l a n e t R a d i k a l Fo r a l o n g t i m e , s c i e n c e h a d b e e n i n s p i r e d by n at u r e a nd t h e a b i l i t i e s f l o r a a nd f au n a had. In the foreground stood research about p l a n t s a nd d e t a i l s a b ou t t h e i r a r c h i t e c t u r e a n d s u r f a c e s , a s we l l a s a n i m a l s a n d t h e i r c ap a b i l i t i e s . B i o e n g i ne e r i n g t a ke s n at u r e ’ s intelligent design as example for new i nve n t i o n s a n d c o n s t r u c t i o n s . A l o n g s i d e , fic t i o n a d d e d a no t h e r i n g r e d i e n t : t h e i d e a to equip humans with animal powers. Superheroes such as Spiderman with his extraordinary powers and ability made mankind dream about optimizing our species. How great it would be if w e c o u l d f l y, c l i m b w a l l s , n e e d e d l e s s sleep and less nourishment. What kinds o f b e n e fi t s a n o p t i m i z e d s p e c i e s w o u l d bring about in form of labour force and f o r t h e e c o n o m y w o r l d w i d e . T h e b r e a kthrough came fast, but also bittersweet.
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concept
tpecnoc
Besides the few successes, the experiments A r t i fi c i a l e vo l u t i o n b y m e a n s o f g e n e t i c experiments and bioengineering has been p l ay i n g a n i m p o r t a n t r o l e i n m o d e r n s c i e n c e . E x t e n s ive l y s c i e n t i s t s h ave b e e n experimenting with humans in order to c r e at e b e t t e r - a d ap t e d s p e c i e s w i t h s p e c i a l a b i l i t i e s a n d f e a t u r e s . C o n v e r s e l y, t h e i r “playing God” also brought about what they call “faulty designs”. Misconstructions were
the
side
effects,
a
collateral
damage in form of mutants, hybrids of half man and half animals, which could not be used for the planned purposes.
only produced human trash – crazy freaks, mutants
with
malformations,
defor-
mities and abnormities with absolutely no use. For example hominid creatures with insectoid features were produced which showed chitinous exoskeletons, c r i p p l e d w i n g s o r we i r d o u t g r ow t h s s u c h as urticating hairs or pointy prickles. Though, their malfunction and otherness made them outcasts and as derelicts of society the mutants could not be used as
work
s l av e s .
Killing
them
would
h ave b e e n t o o c r u e l , b u t a d i s p l a c e m e n t seemed to be the right solution for the p r o b l e m . C o n s e q u e n t l y, t h o s e h o m i n i d beings were banned to Planet Radikal.
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concept
tpecnoc
Fo r my c ol le c t i o n “ Pl a ne t
like and how we and the
materials such as plastic,
r e s e a r c h a b ou t t h e m . T h e
Radikal” I had inspiration
world
will
metal
or
which
word ‘insect’ derives from
f r o m d i f f e r e n t fi e l d s . Fo r
be. There are numerous
come
from
crafts
t h e L at i n wo r d ‘ i n s e c t u m ’
example, I looked into
movies from that period
world.
challenge
w h ic h l i t e r a l ly m e a n s ‘ c u t
f e t i s h f a s h i o n , w h ic h a l s o
g iv i n g a v i s i o n o f t h e
was to combine delicate
into sections’. All insects
shows traits and influ-
times to come. The sets
fabric
s h ow d i s t i n c t b o d y p a r t s
e n c e s o f ol d a r m ou r. T h e n
and costumes from those
materials
it came to me that armour
films also motivated me to
craft parts and to unite
thorax
is actually inspired by
make something futuristic
those
They are covered with
nature,
foremost
and
aesthetic compositions.
a
insects.
I
homage to the Space Age.
My
with
e x o s k e l e t o n , h av e t h r e e
nated by the different
Looking
costume
the apparent opposition
pairs of legs and their
natural
design
design it is apparent that
of softness and strength.
capabilities are as varied
which additionally are
not only typical fashion
Ti g h t
as
very aesthetic.
Another
m at e r i a l a s f a b r ic i s u s e d ,
classy
s o u r c e o f c r e a t iv i t y f o r
but also other materials
neath as a new skin is
my o u t fi t s w a s t h e ‘ S p a c e
are necessary to shape
protected by hard and
Age’
new
and
resistant constructions.
fi c t i o n s c e n e . A l o t o f
silhouettes. That is why
I n s e c t s a n d t h e i r phy s i o -
p e o p l e g av e t h o u g h t t o
I decided to experiment
g n o my i n s p i r e d my m o s t
w h at t h e f u t u r e m ay l o o k
with
and I dove into deeper
was
defence
and
the
by fasci-
science
pLANET rADIKAL
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we
this
l iv e
is into
in
my
characters
LAKIDAr TENALp
little
‘non-fashion’
wood the
The and
high-class with
tool/
controversies
o u t fi t s
and
work
to
transparent
couture
and are divided into head, and
solid
there
under-
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abdomen. chitinious
are
species.
photography
S
yhpargotohp
p a c e O d y s s e e A g r av i c take
Mutants off
to
or
Planet
the Radikal.
Wi t h t h e a i m t o c r e a t e a f l o a t i n g a n d weightless
atmosphere,
monochrome
setting
the
futuristic
could
represent
t h e i n s i d e o f a s p a c e s h i p , m ay b e a c av e on Planet Radikal or just the classic abstraction of space. The hair and make-up design reshapes the human character i s t i c s t o p l ay u p t h e u n i q u e n e s s . T h e models in wrenched positions represent once more the otherness of the fantastic creatures. Movements and expressions a r e a r t i fi c i a l a n d a g o n i z i n g r e f l e c t i n g t h e i r n e g l e c t s i t u a t i o n i n a n u n d e fi n e d a l m o s t c l a u s t r o ph o b i c l o o k i n g r o o m . To allegorize the debarment from society a nd t h e s e c lu d e ne s s i n t h e i r i n i m i t a b i l i t y, the mutants are intentionally pictured i n d iv i d u a l l y t o s t a n d f o r t h e i r o w n . pLANET rADIKAL pLANET rADIKAL
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photography
yhpargotohp
B l a c k W i d o w S p i d e r pLANET rADIKAL
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photography
B l a c k S p h e x Wa s p pLANET rADIKAL
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photography
yhpargotohp
S h i n y B l o w F l y pLANET rADIKAL
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photography
yhpargotohp
B l a c k D r a g o n f l y pLANET rADIKAL
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photography
yhpargotohp
W h i t e E r m i n e M o t h pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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LAKIDAr TENALp
pLANET rADIKAL
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design
C o l l e c t i o n
ngised
The
collection
Radikal
works
opposition
LAKIDAr TENALp
and details such as hoods,
the
h a i r,
contrast
spikes
above
shape
or a
wings
different
of vulnerability and resis-
armoured body or carapaces
t a n c e . Wi t h t h e m a t e r i a l ,
a n d g iv e a c o m p l e t e n e w
colours, pattern cuts and
silhouette. The contrast of
applications
combines
the materials (couture vs.
futuristic
craft) is removed by the
and also historic fashion
d e s i g n s c r e at i n g a h a r m o n ic
design.
overall
it
Focusing
on
my
impression.
main inspiration, namely
A s s h o e s I wa n t e d t o c r e at e
i n s e c t s , t h e p at t e r n c u t s a nd
s o m e t h i n g my s e l f . Ja p a n e s e
a p p l i c a t i o n p l ay w i t h t h e
Geta-shoes inspired me and,
distinction of the different
again, experimenting with
body parts. The unitards
craft material and wood
are tight and function as a
e s p e c i a l l y,
new skin, also show many
g iv e t h e m u t a n t s f o o t w e a r
d e c o r a t ive l i n e s w h i c h g ive
for Planet Radikal, which
t h e e f f e c t o f h av i n g t r a n s -
allows
them
ferred the bodies into new
on
littered
ones.
the
with clean feet. In Japan,
form
they were worn to keep
A d d i t i o n a l l y,
applications
36
with
and
c o n t e m p o r a r y,
pLANET rADIKAL
Planet
above
the
I
decided
to
to
walk surface
a n e w p r o t e c t iv e ‘ e x o s k e -
the
leton’.
a n d fi l t h o n t h e g r o u n d .
The
attachments
pLANET rADIKAL
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feet
LAKIDAr TENALp
from
the
dirt
O u t fi t N o . 2
O u t fi t No . 6
O u t fi t No . 7
O u t fi t N o . 1
O u t fi t N o . 4
O u t fi t No . 8
O u t fi t No . 5
O u t fi t N o . 9
O u t fi t N o . 3
pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
1
1
E r m i n e M o t h
Catsuit and Boning Silhouette with C a b l e Ti e s
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
2
2
B l a c k W i d o w
Catsuit and Boning Silhouette with C a b l e Ti e s
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
3
3
B l a c k D r a g o n f l y
F l ow i n g D r e s s a n d Boning Silhouette with Macramé Te c h n i q u e
pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
4
4
O r c h i d M a n t i s
F l ow i n g D r e s s a n d Boning Silhouette with Macramé Te c h n i q u e
pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
5
5
W i n g e d A n t
C r o p To p S t i t c h e d with 3D Printed Wi n g s a n d Pa n t s with Plotted Flex Print
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ngised
design
6
6
S p h e x Wa s p
Draped Dress with Backpiece Necklet o u t o f C a b l e Ti e s a n d R u f f l e d Tu l l e Leggings
pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
7
7
S c a r a b a e u s B e e t l e
To p a n d Pa n t s o u t of Chain Links and Shims
pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
8
8
B l o w F l y
Bodysuit with Hair Laces and S u s p e n d e d Tu l l e Gaiters
pLANET rADIKAL
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pLANET rADIKAL
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ngised
design
9
9
G o l i a t h B e e t l e
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B o n e d C r o p To p and Mermaid Skirt
pLANET rADIKAL
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design
ngised
M a t e r i a l
T h e m at e r i a l s I u s e d a r e ve r y
I c o n s t r u c t e d i n s e c t o i d e xo s ke -
d iv e r s e . O n t h e o n e h a n d
letons and made amour pants
there are shiny and trans-
out of ring washers and metal
p a r e n t f a b r ic s wi t h s o f t , s i l k y
chain links. Another peculi-
a n d f l ow i n g t e x t u r e s . O n t h e
a r i t y i s t h at I u s e d 3 D p r i n t i n g
other hand, I used solid, rough
and
or stiff material from craft
as
such as plastic, metal and
Resumed, my collection with
wo o d a n d I g ave t h o s e i t e m s
its
a new function in fashion.
c o n t r a s t b e t we e n we a k ne s s a nd
As flowin g material I s elected
s t r e n g t h a nd c o m b i ne s t h e m t o
chiffon and tulle. Somehow
new aesthetics. The softness
the tight underdresses can
and
be viewed as new skins
fragility
–
designed application materials
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wings
for
dress.
and
a
mirrors
transparency
the
reflects
v u l n e r a b i l i t y.
vulnerable ones. I created
The ‘insectoid anti-aesthetic’
special surfaces, for example
with its pointy or even nasty
by bonding silver foil on
ou t g row t h s t a nd f o r p ro t e c t i o n
fabric
with
a n d r e s i s t a n c e . T h e t wo s t y l e s
latex on tulle or included
c o m b i n e d m a ke a n i n n ov a t ive
a r t i fi c i a l h a i r i n m y p i e c e s .
composition
The things I used, which are
The colours used are black,
u s u a l ly n o t u s e d f o r c l o t h e s ,
white,
are cable ties, ring washers,
metallic. In order to create a
metal chains, wood, silver
futuristic and galactic look I
foil and truck tarpaulin. With
p a r t ly we n t aw ay f r o m n a t u r e .
and
working
grey
cable ties or truck tarpaulin
pLANET rADIKAL
little
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and and
h a r m o n y. silver/
design
ngised Pe a r l s S t i t c h e d
L a t e x C ove r e d
White
Black
Muslin
Tu l l e
Chiffon
Chiffon
Structured Faux
Salmon Leather
Tr u c k Fa b r i c
K n i t t e d Tr i c o t
Leather
Imitation
Plane
Mesh
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pLANET rADIKAL
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design
ngised
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Fashion Design + Art Direction Photography + Edit for Editorial Photography at the Show Models for Editorial Dancers/Models at the Show Hair + Makeup Makeup Artist at the Show Set Design Tailoring
Shoes Armour Pants 3D Print Assistants
facebook.com/BellaRadikalCouture
Isabella Schuh Katarzyna Salamon Photografie Richter, Tiv Tyler, Tonight Jelena Grjasnowa Julia Schalitz Mai Lin, Manu, Laura, Antonia , Flore, Veronika, Olga, / Stefanie, Selina Jimmy Klein Isabella Schuh Nina Kleinen Katarzyna Salamon Isabella Schuh Sophie Knaak Julian Bartels Julia Weinstock Daniel Kujawa Isabella Schuh Philipp Mageney „der mit den Nussknackerhänden“ 3D Druckzentrum Ruhr Martin Tiedemann Bilgin Can Isikoglu
Layout + Illustration
Isabella Schuh
Authors
Anika Ellwart Isabella Schuh
l a P
n e
t IdaR lak