17 FASHION, ART & LIFESTYLE S E P T 2 0 2 3 V O L U M E 3 I S S U E 3
NYFW SPRING 2024
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DISCLAIMER
BENDING NOT BREAKING PAGE 3
VERDAVAINNE
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KEVIN HALL PAGE 12
PLAYFULPAGE26
SPECTRUM PAGE 31
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ALBRIGHT NYFW PAGE 18
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FOUND FAVOR
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BLURRY VIEW
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RAINY DAYS PAGE 53
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WONDERLAND
EXPERIMENTAL
58 NIGHTMARE IN
PAGE 65 AI PAGE 71
Editor's page
So why is the word “disclaimer” is put on the front cover? Well, this issue is called Disclaimer for a good reason and I’ll get right back to that. In this issue we are going to be covering New York Fashion Week Spring 2024 with such Designers as Kevin Hall, VERDAVAINNE and a couple of up-and-coming designers from Albright College. Also, in this issue, we’re going to be tackling the ideal of generated AI. What is it? How does it affect our industry? And should we put guard rails on it? We’re going to try to look at it from the artist’s perspective the photographers perspective, and the models perspective. You’re going to be pleasantly surprised with what we’re about to bring out.
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S P R I N G 2 0 2 4 C O L L E C T I O N D I F F E R E N T P E R S P E C T I V E
VERDAVAINNE
PHOTOS BY ELVIA GOBBO AND BAILEY.IV VERDAVAINNE COM
New York, NY September 12, 2023 V E R D A V A I N N E, the esteemed luxury fashion brand, unveiled its Spring 2024 collection in a mesmerizing fashion presentation that left guests in awe Held at the exquisite Casa Cipriani in downtown NYC, the event saw a distinguished audience of editors, stylists, influencers, and loyal clients gather for an intimate and unforgettable experience, designer Cyril Verdavainne's debut as part of the official NYFW calendar
The Spring 2024 collection by VERDAVAINNE is a celebration of bold eveningwear, featuring stunningly imagined silhouettes with voluminous skirts that captivate with their architectural structure and graceful movement. The collection also showcases oversized high-contrast patterns that demand attention, and elegant kimono-inspired, trapunto stitched belt detailing that added an exquisite touch of refinement to each ensemble The collection also focused on neckline treatments, from alluring halter styles that exuded elegance to romantic off-shoulder designs that offered a touch of provocative sophistication Bold and strong shoulders were also a commanding statement A highlight of the presentation was the collection's finale, a breathtaking wedding gown in chalk white that featured a halter neckline and a self-appliqué sash made of delicate white poppy flower petals, creating an ethereal and romantic masterpiece akin to a moving marble sculpture
A statement from Cyril Verdavainne, the founder and designer of his eponymous label:
"I wanted to show something glamorous and generous in proportion but with clean, crisp lines The use of colors was a must for me with the Neon Yellow, the Chartreuse, the Shameless Fuchsia Pink it’s all about bringing fun to our clients’ wardrobes "
Verdavainne continues, "Speaking of our clients, it was important for us to feature our gorgeous curvy ladies because they are here, they are very real, and they very much appreciate brands like VERDAVAINNE I have been at this gig for a little while now, and I haven’t met a woman who is a straight size."
"While I design a line every season, the brand sets itself apart and identifies as ‘custom’ and made to measure The client gets to create, and for me, it is an opportunity to learn more about women and about the clothes they truly want to wear," says the designer VERDAVAINNE's Spring 2024 presentation was all about embracing the bold, celebrating contrasts, and weaving elegance into every minute detail The collection marked a true embodiment of the brand's commitment to sophistication, creativity, and an unwavering dedication to delivering fashion that celebrates the unique beauty of every woman The collection's boldly proportioned silhouettes and subtle, yet forward detailing will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression on both wearer and admirers alike
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H A L L
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Photos by Arun Nevader Designer Website www kevanhalldesigns com
Among the standout looks was the Cote d’Azur grand plaid column bustier with a side slit. This piece exuded timeless elegance with its oversized graphic pattern, while the bustier top added a touch of modernity. The daring side slit revealed just the right amount of leg, making it a
perfect choice for a sophisticated evening affair.
Another striking ensemble was the Multi floral bouquet sequin gown. This look effortlessly combined vibrancy with sophistication, making a certain must have for the 2024 Red Carpet season. Its impeccable tailoring and flattering silhouette made it a standout piece that perfectly captured the spirit of the Kevan Hall show with every stitch. These looks, among others, showcased Kevan Hall's masterful craftsmanship and ability to merge classic and contemporary elements into stunning fashion statements. All shoes were from Nina Shoes and elegantly elevated each ensemble, adding a final flourish of style and sophistication to the collection.
Adding to the allure of this season's collection is a collaborative partnership with Chatham, a luxury brand renowned for its laboratorygrown gemstones and diamond jewelry. Chatham's commitment to merging art and science has made them leaders in the industry, with a history
spanning over 80 years
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The brand's innovative approach to replicating natural gem-growing conditions has resulted in a unique collection that ranges from classic to contemporary. The Spring Summer 2024 Collection: Cote d’Azur showcased the designer's continued dedication to timeless elegance, innovation, and storied inspiration This collection is a celebration of the rich heritage of France’s legendary Riviera, merged with the visionary creativity of Kevan Hall and the exceptional craftsmanship of Chatham jewels.
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ALBRIGHT
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COLLEGE
New York, NY September 10, 2023 Albright College marked its comeback at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) on Saturday, September 9th, with an eagerly awaited runway fashion show Following the tremendous achievements of the past two years, Albright College, renowned for its nationally ranked Liberal Arts-based fashion design, merchandising, and costume design program, proudly presented the innovative designs of five graduates and one current senior on the prestigious runways of NYFW
ALBRIGHTCOLLEGE NYFW2023
This remarkable event served as a testament to Albright College's unwavering commitment to fostering emerging talent and pushing the boundaries of fashion creativity. The audience at NYFW was treated to a mesmerizing showcase of diverse perspectives, innovative designs, and groundbreaking concepts, underlining the institution's pivotal role in shaping the future of the fashion industry."At Albright College, we aim to harness the transformative power of education in order to unlock the potential of all our students. Through initiatives like our NYFW fashion show, we nurture creativity, passion, and professionalism, empowering our students and graduates to become the innovative leaders of tomorrow." -
Jacquelyn Fetrow, President, Albright College.
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The show opened with Freddy Diaz's collection of artfully combined floral elegance and playful polka dots, including an opening look of a floral pleat neck tank top and terra cotta pleated wide-leg trousers. He introduced a charming floral tie-front top and a polka dot camp shirt with floral shorts. The standout was a timeless terra cotta wrap halter maxi dress, inspired by Diaz's Dominican Republic heritage and New York City.
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Next came Philadelphia native Jasmin Burton, whose collection radiated effortless style and creativity with versatile pieces, including a retro cut one-piece swimsuit layered under a lavender chiffon, ruffle-tiered negligée coverup.
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Returning designer, Nicholas Kedge followed with an avant-garde collection of short dresses with cut-out details, racer front and back designs, and unique pompom ornamentation. His designs showcased a fusion of traditional patternmaking with hand-draped elements.
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The following collection, by Susie Benitez, aka "Susie Buttons," seamlessly blended contemporary elegance and timeless charm. Her collection featured vibrant pieces like a yellow jacquard floral blouse with a dirndl skirt, a green floral halter top with capri pants, and a striking blue floral jacquard camisole top with feather-trimmed cigarette pants. The centerpiece was a floral jacquard bustier top dress with detached blouson sleeves and a full ballgown overskirt.
Queens native Victoria Aquino then presented grace and creativity with unique touches like a sleeveless bustier maxi dress with hand-painted and detailing. The pinnacle is reached with a high-collar trumpet-sleeve white lace wedding dress, radiating ethereal beauty.
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Senior Zyaire Valentine closed the show with bold textures and styles. Standout pieces like a yellow skirted ball gown with a black hologram tuxedo overcoat. The final look was a black hologram plaid taffeta coat paired with a hot pink taffeta asymmetrical ballgown, showcasing Valentine's bold approach to design.
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PLAYFUL
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A childlike heart bestows adults with the gift of unbridled imagination, boundless curiosity, and unfettered joy. It ignites a sense of wonder, enabling us to find magic in the mundane. It fosters resilience, allowing us to bounce back from setbacks with the tenacity of a child trying again and again. Embracing this spirit keeps us openminded, fostering creativity and the ability to see the world with fresh, hopeful eyes. It reminds us that, no matter our age, the capacity for awe and delight is boundless.
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SPECTRUM
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Model MARIAH
Photos and clothes by BAILEY.IV
The evolution of fashion has paralleled the changing spectrum of societal values and expressions. In eras past, fashion was often constrained by rigid norms, reflecting the prevailing attitudes of the time. However, as societal perspectives have broadened, so too has fashion's palette. It now embraces diversity, championing inclusivity across race, gender, and body types.
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The changing spectrum in fashion represents a powerful shift towards self-expression and individuality. Designers now draw inspiration from a kaleidoscope of cultures, breaking free from the constraints of convention. Bold patterns, vibrant colors, and unconventional silhouettes have become celebrated mediums of self-discovery.
Moreover, fashion is no longer just an aesthetic statement; it's a platform for social and environmental advocacy. Sustainable and ethical practices are at the forefront, reflecting a collective consciousness towards a more conscious, compassionate world.
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This changing spectrum in fashion is a testament to its transformative power, showing that style is more than skin deep. It's a mirror of our evolving values, reflecting the beauty of diversity, the strength of individuality, and the promise of a more inclusive future.
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B E N D I N G
NOT BREAKING
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MODEL LIV EMERALD PHOTOS & CLOTHES BY BAILEY.IV
Meditation and self-care are powerful tools for managing and preventing stress To incorporate them effectively, start by establishing a regular meditation practice Find a quiet, comfortable space and dedicate a few minutes each day to focus on your breath This simple act can help calm your mind and reduce stress levels
In addition to meditation, prioritize self-care activities This includes getting regular exercise, eating nutritious meals, and ensuring you get enough restful sleep Engage in activities that bring you joy and relaxation, such as reading, taking baths, or spending time in nature Practice mindfulness by being present in the moment, appreciating the small things, and letting go of worries about the past or future
M e d i t a t i o n a n d s e l fc a r
Set boundaries to protect your mental and emotional wellbeing Learn to say no when necessary and avoid overcommitting Practice self-compassion and avoid selfcriticism Treat yourself with kindness and understanding, acknowledging that it's okay to take breaks and care for yourself
Remember, consistency is key Making meditation and selfcare a regular part of your routine will create a strong foundation for managing and preventing stress By nurturing your mind and body, you'll be better equipped to handle life's challenges with a sense of calm and resilience e THEME PAGE 38
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FOUND
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F
A V O R
MODEL MICHELLE PHOTOS & CLOTHES BY BAILEY.IV
MASTERING HUMILITY
Having a content and humble life is immensely rewarding for several reasons Firstly, contentment stems from appreciating what you have rather than constantly striving for more This mindset fosters gratitude, which has been linked to improved mental well-being and overall life satisfaction Secondly, humility allows for genuine connections with others It promotes empathy, understanding, and a willingness to learn from different perspectives This, in turn, leads to richer, more meaningful relationships
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Additionally, a humble disposition reduces the need for constant validation or comparison, which can be a significant source of stress and anxiety. It allows for inner peace and a sense of selfassuredness. Ultimately, a content and humble life provides a foundation for lasting happiness and fulfillment, rooted in genuine appreciation for life's blessings and a deep connection with oneself and others.
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B L U R R Y V I E W
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MODEL MIRIAM FRANKS
PHOTOS & CLOTHES BY BAILEY.IV
Living without the ability to see the future is a gift that keeps life full of surprises and spontaneity. It allows us to embrace each moment with genuine wonder and curiosity, unburdened by the weight of knowing what lies ahead. The present becomes a canvas of endless possibilities, a space where dreams can be nurtured and passions pursued without the constraints of preconceived outcomes. It encourages us to savor every experience, no matter how small, and find joy in the simple pleasures of life.
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Without foresight, we learn resilience and adaptability, navigating challenges with grace and determination, knowing that each hurdle is a chance for growth.
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It fosters a sense of true presence, forging deeper connections with others as we engage in genuine, unscripted interactions. Ultimately, the beauty of not knowing the future lies in the freedom it grants us to live authentically, cherishing each moment as it unfolds.
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RAINY DAYS
MODEL SHANNON MURPHY
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PHOTOS BY BAILEY.IV
Shooting a fashion photoshoot on a rainy day in Lower Manhattan is a highstakes dance between creativity and adaptability. The city takes on a mystique, its streets awash in reflections and shimmering with a slick urban sheen. Wardrobe becomes a canvas for inventive styling, introducing sleek rainwear or experimenting with textures that play off the moisture. Makeup artists work their magic to ensure every frame exudes a flawless allure, resilient against the drizzle.
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The soft, diffused light lends an ethereal quality, perfect for accentuating the intricate details and textures of haute couture. Puddles become enigmatic mirrors, framing models in captivating ripples Despite the challenges, an electric energy permeates the atmosphere. Models exude confidence, striding through the rain with an air of elegance. The usual bustle of Lower Manhattan takes on a more subdued rhythm, offering moments of clarity amidst the urban chaos.
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Flexibility is paramount, with backup locations and equipment at the ready for heavier downpours. Post-production becomes an artful extension, fine-tuning the moody, dynamic atmosphere, adding a layer of cinematic drama to each frame. Ultimately, a fashion photoshoot on a rainy day in Lower Manhattan transcends the ordinary, delivering imagery that fuses elegance with the raw, urban beauty of a rain-soaked cityscape.
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MODEL LAKEISHA
PHOTOS & CLOTHES BY BAILEY.IV
HEAD GAMES
AnexperimentalphotoshootinfusedwithsubtlygeneratedAIelements addsatouchofenchantingmystiquetothecreativeprocess. Behindthe scenes, advancedalgorithmssubtlyenhanceandrefineaspectsofthe images, weavingasubtlelayerofdigitalmagicthatremains imperceptibletothenakedeye Thistechnologicalcollaboration elevatestheartisticvision, breathinglifeintothevisualsinwaysthatgo beyondtraditionalphotography
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Subtle tweaks in lighting, color grading, or even the composition itself are subtly fine-tuned by the AI, harmonizing with the photographer's vision. It's like having an invisible co-creator, enhancing the final result without overpowering the authenticity of the original concept. This fusion of human artistry and artificial intelligence opens up a realm of endless creative possibilities, pushing the boundaries of what's achievable in visual storytelling.
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The result is a collection of images that resonate on a subconscious level, capturing moments with an intangible allure that leaves viewers intrigued. This experimental fusion of AI and photography showcases the potential of technology to seamlessly augment the artistic process, leaving a subtle imprint that enhances the visual narrative.
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NIGHTMARE IN WONDERLAND
MODEL ABIGAYLE PHOTOS BAILEY.IV THEME PAGE 65
In the nightmarish depths of Wonderland, the once-vibrant landscape twisted into a grotesque parody of its former self. Moonlight, filtered through ominous clouds, cast eerie, elongated shadows that danced across the ashen ground. Trees, gnarled and contorted, reached skyward like skeletal fingers, their leaves rustling in a dissonant chorus.
A river, once crystal-clear, now ran with inky blackness, emitting an otherworldly glow. Its sluggish flow whispered unnerving secrets, carrying echoes of forgotten laughter. The air hung heavy with a damp, chilling fog, muffling distant, distorted sounds that reverberated through the desolate expanse.
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Amidst the eerie tableau stood the Cheshire Cat, its once-grinning visage now a grotesque rictus, its eyes gleaming with malevolence. It hovered, half-dissolved, in the oppressive atmosphere, its form shifting and warping with every unsettling purr.
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The Mad Hatter's tea party, once a scene of whimsy, now exuded a sinister aura. The table was cluttered with shattered porcelain and rotting cakes, oozing with an unidentifiable, putrid substance The Hatter himself sat at the head, face hidden beneath a tattered top hat, his mirthless cackle echoing in the still, oppressive air.
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As Alice ventured further into this nightmarish Wonderland, the once-familiar inhabitants became twisted, contorted versions of their former selves. The White Rabbit, with empty, hollow eyes, scurried aimlessly, leaving a trail of decaying fur in its wake. The Queen of Hearts presided over a desolate courtyard, her roses long wilted and stained crimson with a substance best left unmentioned.
In this nightmarish Wonderland, the whimsy and wonder had curdled into a haunting, macabre spectacle, a realm of distorted dreams and horrors that lurked in every shadow, forever etching itself into Alice's troubled psyche.
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L E T ’ S H A V E T H E C O N V E R S A T I O N
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AI
DISCLAIMER ALERT
There’s a new big bad elephant in the room. It has struck the lexicon of today’s society, and its name is AI. Whether it’s Mid Journey or Photoshop or any other AI out there, it is as we call the Boogeyman But I also bring to you this: perhaps AI was out a long time before we actually claimed it as artificial intelligence. After all, what would Star Wars be without CGI (which is the earlier version of AI) Now I know some people are saying well it requires a person being in front of a computer with a certain amount of skills to pull off the CGI. But isn’t that what we’re doing With generated AI? Are we not sitting in front of a computer with an easier task of just basically being able to prompt the computer in order for the computer to give us exactly what we want? As a photographer, I also am a little bit skeptical about generated AI being let out the box in the way it has without us having this conversation. And to be perfectly honest,
I believe it’s a little too late to have this conversation as it is but we still need to have it Photographers throughout the generations have had this conversation before if you think about it. Think about the photographers who were only shooting film, and a digital camera comes around They had to master their craft for years to the point where nobody can do exactly what they can with a camera. And here comes a camera where not only do you not have to pay hundreds to thousands of dollars a year in photo equipment and chemicals as well as paper. But here comes a camera that can shoot an endless supply of photos where you can even see what the photo looks like on the back of the camera
This was called a game changer. A lot of photographers were not happy about it, but then they had to learn how to use it to their advantage. The same thing happened when Photoshop first hit the scene A lot of photographers who were using darkrooms were not happy with this The ability to change and manipulate a photo the way you want it or suit the desires of what your client is looking for This was too scary for certain people But the industry moved on We learned how to have the elephant in the room work for us Is this the same for generated AI?
PROS for photographer
Levels the playing field against the big boys, and the professionals in the industry. Creates a more polished and professional look on your photos when done correctly. AI helps you become more creative where you couldn’t afford it
CONS
Can create a whole entire fashion editorial without ever using a camera or a model. Can take away jobs from real photographers Never knowing what is real and what is not in a photo
This is a highly controversial subject. At this moment, however ,there is a way of dealing with it. We need to hold a discussion in the industry on what is Photoshop generated AI or Mid Journey and what is not with a disclaimer asterix at the bottom of a photo, or maybe even in the article As it was stated, if done right, you can open up a whole new door for any photographer to showcase their creativity, as well as their photo skills and what they’re
doing
PROS for models
Just like the photographer, the model can benefit from generated AI by making a low budget photo shoot look like they spent thousands of dollars on that particular shoot If done well, it can enhance the clothes, background, or even the props that are in those particular photos.
CONS
Like most touchups, it takes away from who the model really is. It can cause the person in the photo to feel a sense of low self-esteem due to the fact that the touchup artist has hit on a lot of the model’s insecurities, in order to make the “perfect photo”
The thought that in society today that people are not secure in their looks and here comes a photographer, or a touchup artist in the interest of trying to submit the best work, tearing down the selfesteem of any model in the photo due to the fact that they see imperfections in that person. The feeling of never being able to live up to the image within that photo is a depressing thought Last but not least, if the whole entire photo for a whole entire photo shoot was created on anything like Mid Journey, or Photoshop generated AI, and were submitted into magazines without the magazine’s knowledge of it could cost photographers their jobs
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Think about it this way If you were a magazine and you were paying thousands of dollars to photographers to do a photo shoot, wouldn’t it be easier if you just sat down in front of your computer, thought of the theme and created 5 to six photos in a fashion editorial? Same thing works with the photographer and the model Now hearing all the pros and cons that are going on In this discussion as a photographer, my conclusion to this matter is that generated AI, especially the one in Photoshop should be used like the movies use CGI A special effects tactic It’s great, especially for the small guy or the person just starting out in this business who wants status and attention given to him just as much as the professional in this business. I also came to the conclusion that just like CGI in a film, the whole film should not be AI generated.
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Or in this case the whole photo should not be generated by AI I’m perfectly OK with the idea of a photo having up to 40% of Photoshop AI in it, or even better if the subject itself was just what AI art can do then that’s perfectly OK to have it at 100%. But when you’re lying and saying that there is none, that's when there’s an issue. That’s where there’s a fear. Of course, this is my own conclusion and beliefs, I invite you to have the same discussion
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