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Natedogg

Intro

Here’s a confession: while Belly claims to be a surf skate urban jungle travel youth art culture kinda publication, our main interest is crazy people.

Yes, Mr. Kerouac, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars.

Those ones.

But also we like the straight up hobo burnout drug addict swamp pirate social reject fuckwits who just don’t square peg into this round hole world. Failures. Washups. Loonies.

We don’t discriminate. We like nuts. They’re funny and entertaining and not like whatever anything else what that is.

Fortunately, our little surf skate urban jungle travel art youth culture niche is pretty much mostly populated by such nuts for us to feature, interview, collaborate with and never ever call again. (Yeah, sorry about that. We totally lost your number.)

Most issues start out with a theme, scribbled on a big white grease board in our fancy Belly offices overlooking Sky Garden’s secret basement dungeon. This time the theme was Health (if you can believe that), and other times it’s been Travel or Art or Photography. But by the end of making an issue, we always just scribble out the theme and write the words “Crazy People” on the board.

What the hell.

Take this issue, for example. In search of Health-related topics, we found a woman who will re-arrange your furniture with her vagina, an instafamous white rapper velociraptor with wings and then we printed an entire surf article without ever using the word “Nuts.”

And then there’s Gerry Lopez. You’d think old Gerry Lopez, guru surf yoda that he is, wouldn’t fit our whole “nut job” profile, but think again. Gerry was surfing Pipeline alone long before it was a career necessity. Then “Mr. Pipeline” left Pipeline when it became a career necessity to pioneer windsurfing (super not cool). Then he moved 320km from the nearest ocean to surf on frozen water (called “snow”), all the while emerging as a top surfboard shaper.

Everyone thought he was nuts. But now they call him “guru” and “legend.” (And sometimes yoda.)

See, that’s the thing with crazy people. No one ever broke the mold by trying to fit into it. No one ever discovered new lands by following the path. No one ever… well, you get the point.

It’s crazy until it isn’t.

And that’s why it’s crazy people we like to follow around.

And that would be crazy.

—Belly 12

Hawkins

Or, we mean, not follow around. ’Cause following them would be not crazy. And we want to be crazy, too. But not too crazy, ‘cause then we’ll end up, you know, like them.

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Every once in a while a photo gets sent through that makes us stop what we're doing and daydream about being in that captured moment. The who and the how don't matter. Just take us there now. TORREN MARTYN photographed by DIOGO D'OREY.

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Sometimes a caption ruins everything. And we don't want to ruin the work of our boy SCOTTY who has been on an absolute tear this year.

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We hung with JULIAN WILSON and his bros for a week in Bali. Here he shows us why he's a world title contender.

Maxing Canggu through the lens of NATEDOGG.

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OUTTAKES DAMN GOOD NIGHT

Adam Bennetts Y2K

Wednesday, December 6th, 2006 CONVERSATION

A Few Words on Jazz ALIEN

Carey

Con t e n t s

42 44 48 50

STRAIGHT, NO CHASER

Pete Matthews HASHTAG

Kim Anami RIGHT BRAIN

The Snake Hole OLD SCHOOL

Captain Chaos

Ethan Zane

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FOOD & DRINK

SPROUTING

58

PSYCHIC MIGRATIONS

70

I WANTED TO SAY SOMETHING ABOUT WAVES

82

ACTUATIONS

Sanggoe Dharma Tanjung NEXT

Caroline Marks STYLE

The Return of Quiksilver?

134

ON THE COVER: For this issue's cover we've done something new. You might have noticed. It's our first surf action cover and it's of our very good buddy, GARUT WIDIARTA. Photographed by our other good buddy, COREY WILSON. When we saw this we had to have it on page one. Even though we had another photo chosen and were going to print in 12 hours!

We also noticed that Corey had the photo of Garut kicking out of the barrel, with his hands above his head and feeling very alive. We called our boy James at Rip Curl and told him we had deleted his back cover ad of Mick Fanning and we needed this photo of Garut there in its place. He agreed.

So take it all in. Enjoy the blue sky and crystal clear water. Enjoy the look of getting absolutely barreled and the look of coming out. Enjoy getting the best photo of the trip when you're on a boat with a 4x world champ.

Life is good.

CREAM

Belly is an independent youth culture publication based in Bali, Indonesia. It’s a collaboration between surfers, skaters, photographers, filmmakers, writers, and artists. www.balibelly.com info@balibelly.com

Printed by Harapan Prima, Jakarta. ©

2 01 5

BA L I

B E L LY

M E D I A

O u t t akes

Don't look back, you are not going that way. Don't look ahead, you'll miss the moment. Don't look at your down, you'll trip on the stars.

Don't stare at your phone, the answer's not there. Don't look too hard. Don't close your eyes. Don't listen. Don't leave. Don't obey a word we tell you. This magazine... this moment... it's everything. It's all we have. And now it's gone. This is all that remains. This muddled cocktail of memories. This mess of unshakable images. So look right here. Look at us. Now look again.

JOIN the BELLY. If you own a bar or restaurant, invite us in. If you know a talented weirdo, introduce us. If your girlfriend is totally out of your league, hook us up. We. Are. Down. info@balibelly.com

What is it that

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SHAPERSFINS.COM.AU

D a m n G o o d N ig ht

ADAM BENNETTS

OUTFIT: Head-to-toe in black with a grey flanno

DANCE OFF: Othmane Choufani vs Paul Fisher

ARRIVE: A squad of helicopters

UPSTAIRS IN THE VIP: It's a private beach club with all my friends so the whole bar is a VIP.

VENUE: A private beach club somewhere in the tropics

IN THE BACKROOM HAVING SEX: Of course,

that's essential.

DRESS CODE: Smart but casual FIRST ONE TO THROW UP: Josh Dowthwaite BANDS: No bands, I'd have all my mates DJing.

The lineup would be something along the lines of Flight Facilities, Cut Snake, Cassian, Tim Fuchs and Audun, Stretch and Giv from Elsewhere.

SPONSORS: Woodford Reserve and Grey Goose for spirits, Dos Equis for beer and Peter Lehman for wine.

SECURITY: Someone good because this party

them self as a 'blogger'.

SORRY, SEATS TAKEN: Anyone who classes

would be out of control.

SURPRISE GUEST: Will Ferrell BARTENDER: Pablo Milane FIRST DRINK: Old Fashioned

LOST: My USB after I play my DJ set. Always happens.

LAST DRINK: Voddy lime soda

COPS SHOW UP WHEN... The party is over.

DRINK FOR YOUR BOYS AT BALI BELLY: What-

YOU LEAVE WITH: My babe Bianca

ever the boys want AFTER PARTY: At a 4 bedroom villa on the TOAST/SPEECH: Fisher!

beach

GIRLS KISSING: Each other

LATE NIGHT GRINDS: Oporto chicken burger

BOYS KISSING: Only babes

WALK OF SHAME: It was a DAMN GOOD NIGHT, so there's no walk of shame!

INDONESIAN IDOL: Chris Binns does every

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song awesome

WHAT EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT NEXT MORNING: What happened to that guy that

UNDER YOUR ARM: My girl Bianca

was passed out at midnight.

Y2 K

Natedogg

Wednesday, December 6th, 2006 at 1:33pm

This is a photo of the Bali Boys in Hawaii almost a decade ago.

They always had a good connection with the Hawaiians because in the summer all the Hawaiians would come get barreled in Indo. This photo was shot at Kahea Hart's house where a lot of them stayed. I think most of the days were spent laughing at/with Betet. From left to right: Marlon, Pepen, Garut, Dede, Bol, Mustafa, Mega, Varun, Rizal, Ivan, Kahea and Betet.

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Conve r s at io n

A FEW WORDS ON JAZZ Yogi Berra was an all-star American baseball player during the 1940s and ‘50s.

He is famous for dropping malapropisms on reporters, which are like paradoxical quotes that get to the truth in a hurry.

“It ain’t over til it’s over,” he said.

Or, “Cut my pizza into four slices, I’m not hungry enough to eat eight.”

“It’s déjà vu all over again,” he said.

And, “Always go to other people’s funerals, otherwise they won’t go to yours.”

Yogi was a lover of jazz, and was once interviewed on the subject: INTERVIEWER: CAN YOU EXPLAIN JAZZ?

Yogi: I can't, but I will. 90% of all Jazz is half improvisation. The other half is the part people play while others are playing something they never played with anyone who played that part. So if you play the wrong part, it’s right.

If you play the right part, it might be right if you play it wrong enough. But if you play it too right, it's wrong.

I DON'T UNDERSTAND.

Anyone who understands Jazz knows that you can't understand it. It's too complicated. That's what's so simple about it.

DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT?

No. That's why I can explain it. If I understood it, I wouldn't know anything about it.

ARE THERE ANY GREAT JAZZ PLAYERS ALIVE TODAY?

Yogi: No. All the great Jazz players alive today are dead.

Except for the ones that are still alive. But so many of them are dead, that the ones that are still alive are dying to be like the ones that are dead.

NOW I REALLY DON'T UNDERSTAND.

I haven't taught you enough for you to not understand Jazz that well.

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@RoyalBeachBum

WHAT IS SYNCOPATION?

That's when the note that you should hear now happens either before or after you hear it. In Jazz, you don't hear notes when they happen because that would be some other type of music. Other types of music can be Jazz, but only if they're the same as something different from those other kinds.

Al i e n

ETHAN ZANE Rapper, Model, Surfer,YouTuber.

Ethan’s Zane morning starts like that of any model: with cigarettes and a cappuccino. Maybe a Xanax. For the pain, of course, from last night’s crooked “Let’s Love” tattoo in his bottom lip. Today Zane is very busy creating a rhyme for his new Instagram post over breakfast at Betelnut in Canggu. His intensity is palpable. His focus unshakeable. A self-proclaimed “misinterpreted young man with the world in his palm,” Zane has recently stumbled into virtual-fame, with some 55,000 followers on Instagram and over 10,000 subscribers on his YouTube channel. After settling upon a rap for today’s Insta-post — “Imagination is the only weapon in the war against reality.” — the 20-year-old California native wanders around the restaurant for a few minutes striking up conversations with various strangers.

Eventually, he found his way back to our table.

—interview by Ivana

YOU TALK TO EVERYONE, DON’T YOU? I can’t sit still very well. I’m an alien.

HOW DID YOU START RAPPING? I just want to be a voice and music is a way to get there. Rappers are the most hated on people and since I’ve had to go through too much in my life – I grew up in the desert and then I moved to the beach where I was judged for not being good at surfing. I started getting so stressed that I started writing, and then rapping just released my creative energy. I’m not just trying to be a white rapper. When I get to a studio I wanna make the beats. Dogs barking. Bells.

how to rough it in Hawaii. Some nights I meditate at the temple and just sleep there. I just wanted my own space and didn’t want to affect anyone with my energies. I’m hectic and I’m kind of like two people. I’m bipolar and learning to tame it, ’cause if you don’t control it, it controls you. I’m hectic, I’m nuts.

I’m insane. Aren’t we all?

WITH SO MANY FANS AND HATERS (NOT TO MENTION SKYDIVING), HOW DO YOU STAY GROUNDED? I surf in the middle of the night, that’s when I have

the most fun. No one can see me. I’m not trying to prove anything to anyone.

Me, myself and the moon.

CAN YOU GIVE US A RAP RIGHT NOW?

Fuck the fame that shit’s all the same I think the world needs a little change that’s why I’m trying to find my range and I just got let out of my cage a free bird with three words: love lust loyalty WHO INSPIRES YOU? I’m inspired by philosophers like Einstein, Voltaire.

Like, weird stuff. Edgar Allen Poe. I like dark stuff. And light stuff.

HOW DID YOU END UP IN BALI? I always had dreams of Bali. I taught myself how to lucid dream a lot of the times it takes me to places where I wanna be.

It’s like meditation. I have to meditate ‘cause I’m a pretty aggressive person.

WHAT’S YOUR SPIRIT ANIMAL? I’m a wolf. You can catch me in the night walking by myself taming dogs. Or I’m a Velociraptor. With wings.

ANY DIETARY RESTRICTIONS FOR YOUR MODELING CAREER? Does a lion eat vegetables? I smoke two packs a day and drink a shit ton of Bintang. I skate and I surf. I’m blessed enough to have a unique look to where they want to make me a model.

WHERE ARE YOU LIVING RIGHT NOW? Wherever the night takes me.

WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? WHERE DO YOU SLEEP? I ran out of money so I was sleeping on the beach, for like a week and a half. It’s whatever. I learned 32

ME, MYSELF AND THE MOON. IS THAT YOUR RELIGION OR AN ALBUM TITLE?

I’m very spiritual. But for me religion is a black and white context to create conflict. I believe in multiple religions. I believe in energy and I believe in the universe. I believe in destiny, it’s written on the wall. I’m a Cancer. I’m very into the astro-world and zodiacs. You know, it’s what we’re born of.

LET’S END WITH A RAP, SHALL WE?

Walked a lonely road only a few people truly know Escapin thru my flows And Lord only knowz secretly alwayz thought about death, But I put that thought to rest Catch me in my nest, CANGGU I'm with my crew, on something new, alwayz stuntin through Came from Cali, but Bali'Z what I'm reppin Karmas lethal weapon, Watch out where your steppin AZN blood, that's a fact Never had to trap cuz I make surf vids & snap I chose to breathe, plant my seed Doing exactly what my Soul needz I'm thankful for this life so I thank Buddha & I thankful Christ I try.. I try.. I try..

Broken watching all of these liez, a misinterpreted young man with the world in his palm…

BTX

Sp rou t in g

SANGGOE DHARMA TANJUNG, 13.

LOCAL SKATE SPOT: Motion Skatepark! It's perfect and it's where I learned to skate.

FAVORITE WORD: PANTEK

WHAT I HATE ABOUT SKATEBOARDING: I hate getting injured, I really

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU SAW POLICE TAKE A BRIBE? I've

BEST HASHTAG: #motionmission

hate not being able to skate.

never witnessed it before. Cops in Indo don't take bribes.

SPONSORS: Volcom, Motion Skateboards, Lakai Footwear, Spitfire wheels, Screw Kl, Vestal & Ele.

STREET OR PARK? Park, because we dont have the best spots here in Bali so street skating is hard. At the skatepark I can skate all day and not have to worry about anything.

WHAT I LOVE ABOUT SKATEBOARDING: I love battling with a trick trying

CURRENT SET-UP: I'm riding a Motion Board “The Royal Seal” size 7.6, 52mm Spitfire Wheels, Thunder trucks 145, Ele bearings, Spitfire grip, Screw Nuts, Volcom Tee, Shorts and Socks, & wearing the new Riley Hawks from Lakai.

FAVORITE 3 INTERNATIONAL SKATERS: Alex Midler, Trevor Colden,

Luan Oliveira.

FAVORITE 3 LOCAL SKATERS:

BEST CONTEST RUN EVER: It was

during the Walikota cup 2015 at Motion. I had a perfect run and landed a Frontside Hurricane down the big rail. Damn that felt good.

SCARIEST SKATING MOMENT?

When I was 11 I tried to feeble a hand rail and missed the pop, hit my nuts and my face on the rail. I will never forget that one.

Afandy, Absar, Yogi & Mario.

NASI CAMPUR OR PIZZA? Nasi

Padang everyday.

WHAT NEW TRICKS HAVE YOU BEEN WORKING ON? I landed a Crooked

BINTANG OR TEH BOTOL? Teh Pucuk.

Nollie flip out the other day, I really want to get that trick dialled. Oh, and a 180 Switch Crook too.

SONG ON REPEAT: 'Dreamer' by The

WHAT’S YOUR GOAL IN LIFE? I want

Slave.

to be a Pro Skateboarder.

it over and over then finally getting it dialled... that is the best feeling.

LAST TIME YOU CRIED? Right before this interview. I fell trying a Tre Flip & the board flew up and smashed my finger.

DREAM SKATE TRIP: America, for sure. Skate all the legendary spots with Mario, Afandy, Absar and off course BTX.

HAVE YOU SUFFERED ANY FORMS OF GROMMET ABUSE? I'm lucky I don't

get much abuse, but Genta & Yogi love to film me in the shower.

WHEN I’M NOT SKATEBOARDING:

I'm either at school or sleeping. After school I skate till 10pm then go to sleep. Thats on repeat right now.

Skating is my life.

THOUGHTS ON SCHOOL? I dont like

school, the teachers at my school are gnarly.

MODE OF TRANSPORT: Motorbike.

GOPRO OR RED: GoPro. DO YOU PREFER LOKAL OR BULE GIRLS? Both!

HAVE YOU EVER KISSED A GIRL? Yeah

I have.

FAVORITE VIDEO PART EVER: Mario’s

video part.

DREAM BABE: Salshabilla Adriani,

she is perfect.

FAVORITE DECK GRAPHIC EVER:

34

Hands down the New Royal Seal from Motion.

I'm Sorry: I'm sorry to anyone I've ever disrespected. I didnt mean it.

BTX

Ne x t

CAROLINE MARKS Meet the Next Women’s World Champ.

She’s Thirteen.

By Ivana Lucic / Photos: NateDogg

The only thing Caroline Marks does more than smile all day is surf all day. Her feet have barely reached the shore after a two-hour morning session with Damien Hobgood at Bingin and she’s already asking when they’re going back out.

At thirteen, most girls are thinking about unfulfilled crushes and Instagram filters. At thirteen, most girls fear an ugly bruise or a deep cut. At thirteen, make-up.

At thirteen, ew.

Caroline Marks is not most girls.

This year, 13-year old Marks took home the 2015 American U14 Women’s Championship title, alongside the 2015 US Open girls Pro Jr. Championship and the 2015 NSSA Open Girls and Women’s Championship title. She was also the Youngest NSSA Open Women’s Champion ever. In a few years, she will be the new women’s world champ. That’s what everyone says, anyway. And they’re usually not wrong, right?

But the hype doesn’t go to her head. She’s too busy thinking about the next wave, which is mostly what she does at home in Florida or California, where she just moved.

And it’s what she does in Bali. She surfs. She thinks about surfing. And she smiles.

Invited to Bali for a FOX team surf trip, Caroline and her older brother Luke take to the sea with some friendly sibling rivalry. After all it was Luke and her dad that got Marks into the water and out of the equestrian ring, where she used to compete in rodeos. While Caroline claims Padang Padang is not her favorite type of wave, her first barrel out there proves exactly what all the hype is about.

Better than rodeos.

Her other brother Zach knows his way around the waves too, but he’s better known for developing the app Gromsocial.com, a safe platform for kids to connect. In just two years the app has amassed more than 1.7million users worldwide, and growth isn’t stopping. The whole family works on the site together, including all five Marks siblings. “It’s a really cool balance from the everyday surf life we all love living,” said Caroline of the app, which keeps 36

bullies off the site to create a safe space for groms to be good digital citizens. And social.

When surfing real waves, Caroline rides with style reminiscent of a young Occy, earning her the nickname “Carolupo” from her surf coach C.T. Taylor. In addition to Occy and fellow Florida native Kelly Slater, Marks looks up to Carissa Moore. But at the rate she’s going, the scales may soon be turned. But if Marks had to pick any woman to ride the waves in Indonesia with, it would be her mom, says Caroline. “It would be cool to see her in the lineup having fun and surfing with me.”

From Bali, the search continues. Driving across Sumbawa, Marks sits on the edge of her seat for hours on end anticipating the first glimpse of the new wave. A missed flight for the surfboard bags is more than she could handle. “All I could do is imagine what it would be like to surf Lakey Peak after watching it all afternoon long,” she says. “I was so stoked our boards showed up that night so we could surf the next day.” Even when approached with a situation that was new and uncomfortable, she didn’t back down. After waxing up her board she paddled out to the peak and watched the waves with a sense of knowledge that far exceeded her age.

Traveling with a veteran like Hobgood is an inspiration for Marks. “Seeing the way he approaches the wave was so sick,” she says. “I learned how to get barreled from him. And he can get so barreled.”

Sooo barreled.

“She is a very determined, competitive and strong girl,” says Damien. “That coupled with her freak talent makes her a force to be reckoned with, even at her young age.”

The sun goes down and Caroline is still in the lineup at Lakey, hunting barrels. She’ll be heading home soon. And she’ll never go home again. She’ll be world champ on airplanes and podiums and Red Bull posters. She’ll never be thirteen. Damien tells her they should be getting back to shore soon. It will be dark. Caroline Marks stares out at the lineup, calculating how soon she can get back out here tomorrow, the next day, forever. Smiling.

Natedogg

St yl e

THE RETURN OF QUIKSILVER? The Dark Rituals and Surf Tripping campaign have groms in their gear again, and it’s the first thing to shock us in a decade

By Travis Ferre

I’ve talked about this shirt I used to have before. It was pink and it had a skull on it and was tribute to an old Quiksilver campaign that read: “If you can’t rock ’n’ roll, don’t fucking come.” Mom didn’t like the shirt, of course, but that shirt had energy in it. When I wore it, I had energy. It proved something to people. That I was part of a culture that most people didn’t understand. And Quiksilver, at that time, understood that. And I was emulating them. And proud of what it meant at the time. It started with the team.

They had a variety of people on the team that they used uniquely: Tim Curran and Nathan Fletcher. Kelly Slater and Tom Carroll. Strider Wasilewski (pre WSL version) and Braden Dias. Dylan Rieder and Dylan Graves as groms. Dudes who were unique and gnarly in all sorts of ways. But at the core: they all did something that was fucking sick. And I didn’t feel like it was forced. And while this goes back to my grom days, and it’s been pretty well-documented that Quiksilver has had its troubles with growing up to the size it is today, something recently caught my eye. And it came by way of a box of the strangest, most interesting clothes I’d seen from Quiksilver in a long time.

I poured out the box of t-shirts, shorts and sweatshirts. They look like they were plucked from my 4th grade hamper and enlarged and slightly updated.

Sprinkled throughout that mix were strange, fucked up drawings, some you might even call cheesy on their own, but something was kind of coming together when you looked at the line as a whole. Skulls. Crossbones. Aggressive branding. There’s a weed leaf that says “High Performance.” It looked like it 40

just didn’t give a fuck about trends. Or “what’s selling at retail.” It looks like they got Craig Anderson, Dane Reynolds, Mikey Wright and a few other guys on the team together and actually listened to what excited them, from the past and present, and then worked with their designers to create something both fresh and throwback, that their team would actually wear. And they committed to it.

Now I’m not here to go into much about the retail business or sell-through or any of that shit, but when we recently did a massive surf event, and invited every grom wild enough to come hangout with us on a Tuesday, I looked around and I actually saw Quiksilver shirts on kids who look like they wore them on purpose. Kids who definitely surfed. Skated. Moshed. Probably snuck in. Kids living like us. And they wore the shirts as a statement. Not on accident. And I think the last time I’ve seen that was over a decade ago.

Maybe more.

The line that I had poured out on my bed has recently been released, and it is all from the “Dark Rituals” line, and the “Surf Tripping” line. Both throwbacks, but both influenced by Quik’s modern team, and the result has been shocking nearly everyone who sees it on me.

And whether this makes you go buy a t-shirt or not, doesn’t really concern me, but if anything, we should all do a nice slow-clap to a brand that’s had it’s struggles, it’s triumphs and looks, to us at least, to be re-entering a culture that it more or less created. And instead of using spread sheets to guide the way, they’re using fuckin’ rock ‘n’ roll.

St ra i gh t , N o C has e r

PETE MATTHEWS North Shore board builder turned international cameraman turned Bali castaway contest promoter adventurer surf shop-owner finally turned board builder again… Pete Matthews has seen a lot of surfing’s growth and changes and he’s not afraid to call it like he sees it.

When you show up in Hawaii, you’re considered to be an asshole until you prove otherwise. In Bali, you show up and everything is cool until you do some asshole move.

As far as the waves go, in Hawaii you're getting heavy 7 second rides, here you can get 20-30 second rides and clock up a lot more tube time, like the kind where you can look around and do it again and again.

In Hawaii there's so many great surfers you have never heard of. They work as waiters or at gas stations and they would smoke some of the local Bali pro's in the line-up.

Bali was quiet with not as many surfers as there is now. But you know surfers, they just can't keep a secret.

Thank god there was no Instagram back then.

In just over a decade the place has gone through major changes.

The best surfers in the world get their cover shots, video parts, and ad campaigns shot at Keramas. A resort was built right at the wave with a bar and massive floodlights. There was a WCT event there which blew the place out completly.

The wave is still great but can only handle 15 people with a small tide window… So I guess it kinda helps that it gets lit up at night.

LIVING WITH BETET

ULUWATU

Betet is classic character. After Riz, he is the ultimate ambassador of surfing in Bali. He had that 'Betet Turn' on lock down. I’d be in other parts of the world and all the guys on tour always wanted to see footage of Betet surfing. Andy Irons especially.

What people don’t realize is Betet has a huge family down there at Kuta Reef. His brothers own a salon, a tattoo parlor, and a classic old school surf shop called I think '69'. He also has a gay brother that owned a apartment building where we all lived. It was pretty funny – it was like Melrose Place with an Indo twist. We would party all night and surf all day. Betet was a great surfer to film. He was and still is #DaGuy.

It’s a magical place with epic local people under a lot of pressure from the modern crowded world moving in. The place is kinda like the Eiffel tower in Paris: every surf tourist wants to get their photo taken there.

Everyday there are 20 photographers shooting photos and trying to sell them. There's a super club with thousands of people partying there on the weekends. When its small there are 200 guys out there, but once it gets to 6-foot it clears out pretty quick. So, that part is still cool. It is what it is.

HAWAII VS BALI

KERAMAS DURING EARLY 2000'S

Keramas is what locked me in on Bali. Sure there was parties, girls, Canggu, Dreamland and even Ulus... but a 3-to-6ft empty perfect right?

Barrels, power, close to the beach.

It was amazing that people didn’t know about it sooner, but you must remember that the east coast road wasn't there with all the bridges crossing the rivers.You use to have to take roads inland towards the mountains and make sure you made the right turn towards the coast to right spot. Wrong turn and you would be on the wrong side of the ravine with no way to cross it.

This was right around the time the first Bali Bomb happened, so 42

FILMING SURFING AS A CAREER

I started filming totally by accident.

I was young and had a successful surfboard business, then bought a Cannon GL1 to shoot behind-thescenes stuff, no tripod. I followed Jamie O'Brien around the North Shore the winter he won the Pipe Masters and gave the footage to Pete Frieden. Next thing I know, I’m on the Gold Coast with Andy Irons and and Frieden is covering the bills. I didn’t stop travelling for about eight years. Never made huge money, but circled the earth about 15 times and was on all the best surf trips with the best surfers.

I made incredible friendships and saw things you would not believe.

But it was tough, too. I loved surfing and when you film you don't get to surf much. I would come to Bali to get some time to myself and surf, then naturally became friends with

Riz and the boys, so then I got busy filming them. Rizal, Betet, Bol, and Pepen were world-class surfers. It was exciting times for Bali surfing and there was NO ONE posted up filming, unlike today where everyone is a filmer or photographer.

SURF MOVIES

When I started filming I didn’t care about putting together my own movie, it was just about getting the clips and selling them to Pete Frieden, Bill Ballard, Taylor Steele, and whoever else wanted them for their videos Nowadays it’s more about one surfer making a 2 minute movie about himself then putting it on YouTube. It's cool, but at the same time boring, unless you love that guy.

And it gets old in a week.

I think the 'surf movie' as we used to know it will come back, where surfers get together and all watch it the first time. It’s up to the filmmakers or brands to release them that way.

Anyway, Matt found his way to Bali, and is a great asset to the community here. I think he was deep in the jungle for a couple of crucial years because the world has changed with the internet and social media.

He is a voice of surfing and surfing needs him. I wish he could share it with more people through the power of the Internet. Don't count him out yet. The message he preaches is pure.

SURFING'S YOUTH

When I think about the youth, I think about the Brazilians like Felipe Toledo and Gabe Medina. These guys are like 20 years old and busting down the door, as much as everyone hates to hear it. Even John John is feeling the heat.

Indonesia should be taking notes.

Same kinda place, same background.

In the future a group of kids from here will come up and take on the world. It won't be one person like Dede or Oney. Cause I understand that it is hard to leave Indo – shit, even I don’t want to leave – so it's going be a group.

DRUGS SURFBOARDS

I don’t really see drug problems in Indonesia – the laws are too heavy.

But in Hawaii, oh shit, crack, coke, pills, heroin... I've seen it all and have had friends die on all of those drugs.

Alcohol is a drug. You can get super drunk and drive your car into a wall. I had a friend do that too and die.

When I was young building boards I had a good friend that had 3 kids, a beautiful wife, and nice house. He smoked crack until he had holes in his brain. Holes don’t grow back.

Now he lives under the bridge at Sunset Beach.

My party lifestyle changed once I had kids. I gotta be there for them for a long time. You need to set a good example and lead by your choices.

MATT GEORGE

Throughout my teens Matt was the editor of Surfing mag. This is early ’90's when surf magazine's truly were the bible. You didn’t know who won the contest in Brazil or Europe until that mag hit your mailbox.

When I was 10 years old my uncle made me my first board. I was facinated with the process. In my teenage years I worked as a ding fixer, moved up to glassing, then eventually built my own factory in Hawaii, which my brother runs now. Some of the best boards in Hawaii are built there for Tokoro, Glen Pang, and Pyzel.

I got away from from the resin fumes for a few years when I went off filming and ended up in Bali where I met Basti, a classic German guy with a lot of passion and drive, who wanted to make a world-class surfboard factory here.

Fast forward a few years and we've done it again here in Bali. We have the world's best shapers coming here, passing on knowledge to our local team, and refining their shapes in some of the world's best waves.

Guys like Darren Handley and Matt Biolos come over to test their new designs and make boards with Indo waves in mind. We're now getting the local surfers on good boards which is key to producing world class surfers.

Hamish

Schultz

Ha sh t a g

#ThingsILiftWithMyVagina

KIM ANAMI Holistic sex + relationship expert.

Vaginal weight lifter. Surfer.

We found Kim Anami online, lifting things with her vagina – much as her hashtag suggests. In Italy it was pasta and vino. In Los Angeles, it was Oscar Awards and dumb-bells. In Bali it was bunkus and coconuts. With her vagina.

Not that we were searching for that. We just, you know, sorta kinda, stumbled upon it.

We told you about our thing for crazy people, right? Well, this lovely woman was suggesting moving our furniture with her va-jay-jay. How could we go wrong ? We contacted her immediately.

Well, as it turns out, Kim Anami is maybe the sanest person we’ve ever met. She encourages women to be more in touch with their lady parts, shoot ping pong balls and practice wild, lustful cock-worship. We couldn’t agree more. Meet our new Vaginal Kung Fu sensai:

BELLY: SO, LIFTING THINGS WITH YOUR VAGINA… WHAT’S GOING ON THERE? ARE YOU CLUTCHING A BALL INSIDE OR SOMETHING?

KIM ANAMI: I use a jade egg. It’s an ancient Taoist device and technique for strengthening the vagina.

It’s drilled so a string (or chain) can be threaded through. Tie something onto the end of the string and voila.

Now you, too, can lift household objects and small pets.

IS THIS ACTUALLY PRACTICAL, OR JUST AN AWESOME PARTY TRICK?

A major US network TV show asked me if I’d do a ping pong shooting demo. I couldn’t believe it. They said they’d put me behind a screen, and the shooting would be in silhouette.

I believe that all women can experience full-body orgasms, G-Spot and cervical orgasms, be gushing lubricant and ejaculate and have ragingly high libidos.

The times, they have a changed.

It all comes down to sexual self-awareness.

WHAT GOT YOU STARTED WITH VAGINAL WEIGHT LIFTING ?

I began studying Taoist sexual practices 20 years ago and learned about it then. I tried it but didn’t get seriously into it until 15 years ago.

IS THERE A MOST MEMORABLE LIFT?

In addition to it being a clever way to win at beer pong, it’s very practical.

With your other “arm” you can carry in the groceries when you don’t have anyone to help you Not only that, with a strong vagina, women have more orgasms, better orgasms and can ejaculate across the room. Those crazy porn scenes you see? Every woman can do that if she has a toned vagina.

It’s also a great way to keep a man in line. I know of a woman in Thailand who sent three men to the hospital because she didn’t know her own strength. Or maybe she did.

SINCE YOU’RE SO OUTSPOKEN ABOUT IT ALL, DO PEOPLE TRY TO GET YOU TO DO THIS STUFF AT PARTIES? LIKE, SHOOTING PING PONG BALLS AROUND? 44

My vagina won an Oscar. For Best Supporting Vagina. We were photographed on Hollywood Boulevard, on the Walk of Fame.

SHOULD MEN BE TRYING TO LIFT THINGS WITH THEIR PENISES?

Yes. Vaginas.

Having a strong cock gives the man better control, more stamina and both the man and the woman more powerful and pleasurable orgasms.

WHAT ARE SOME OTHER ASPECTS OF VAGINAL KUNG FU YOU TEACH?

“Kung Fu” is the mastery of something. I teach not only physical strengthening exercises for the pelvic floor, but overall vaginal and sexual mastery.

And a formidable vagina.

That’s what I teach.

WOW, YOU SAY VAGINA A LOT.

Someone has to. Actually, it took me a long time to get comfortable with that word. I much prefer “pussy,” but some magazines just won’t print that, believe it or not.

YOU SAY A WOMAN’S PUSSY SHOULD BE ABLE TO MOVE FURNITURE. I ABSOLUTELY AGREE, BUT I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THAT MEANS.

I’m starting a vaginal weight lifter moving company, so let me know if you have a small move coming up.

Those Thai vaginas that shoot ping pong balls, open beer bottles and smoke cigarettes? That ought to be the baseline for every vagina. Modern women suffer from a lot of pelvic floor issues, especially after childbirth. Somehow this is considered “normal.” It’s not.

“Normal” is a strong vagina that can pick up small household objects

and bring man to climax or prevent him from ejaculating with conscious flexing.

Like any other muscle, it atrophies with lack of use. Most people don’t use theirs well.

Women are told to “Do your Kegels!”

But Kegels are useless. Like any other muscle, you need resistance and feedback to build strength.

TELL US MORE ABOUT “THE WELLFUCKED WOMAN, ” AND HOW WE CAN GET INVOLVED.

The well-f**ked woman is a meme about the idea that when a woman is well-f**ked, she radiates a magnetic glow. She’s happy, relaxed and beautiful.

When a woman is underfucked — and 99% of women are — she’s grumpy, irritable, depressed and full of road rage.

It’s a noticeable, tangible thing. You probably have friends — male and female — who you can identify that would really benefit from being wellfucked. Think about it.

Men can help by fucking their women more and better. I often say, it isn’t that behind every good man there is a woman. Au contraire: behind every good woman is a man, on his knees, ferociously thrusting and giving her everything he’s got.

HOW DOES SURFING COME FACTOR IN TO ALL OF THIS?

I’m always looking for practices to alter my state of consciousness.

Naturally.

I meditate, I eat well, I exercise.

Surfing has always been one of those things that brought me into The Zone and made me feel more like who I really am. What’s that expression? “There’s nothing that a good day of surfing won’t cure.”

There’s nothing that a great night of fucking won’t cure, either.

After an awesome, cataclysmic sex session, I feel reborn. It's that idea of “la petite mort” or “the little death.”

SO HOW IS SURFING LIKE LE PETITE MORT, THE LITTLE DEATH?

Both are about getting in the flow.

The best surf sessions are where you are fully out of your head and tuned into the wave and dancing with the ocean. You can do no wrong.

The most memorable sex is the same.

You get into “The Zone” where you don’t think anymore about what you are doing. You feel into it, feel into your partner and have this wordless conversation with your bodies.

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They are both about transcendence.

When you get into those spaces, you feel at one with the universe. And at home within yourself.

body and breathe. You’ll get to that orgasmic edge and then back off it.

You can play in that zone for hours.

SAME QUESTION FOR WOMEN?

IN THE COURSE OF YOUR WORK SHOPS AND VIP INTENSIVES, YOU BRING PEOPLE TO ORGASM?

They do that themselves. I give them ideas and techniques and then send them away to do their “homeplay.”

FROM YOUR EXPERIENCE, WHAT IS MOST MEN’S BIGGEST SEXUAL DEFICIENCY – AND THE BEST THING THEY CAN DO TO OVERCOME IT?

Men need to build stamina. They have to focus on it and make it a priority. I have free videos on my website that give techniques for this.

Most women need prolonged intercourse to achieve the deeper vaginal orgasms—G-Spot and cervical. A man needs to be able to hold it together while bringing her there.

DOES THAT MEAN THINKING ABOUT BASEBALL AND MY MOTHER, CAUSE I HATE THAT. EVERYONE DOES.

In a word: breathe. Most people—especially guy people—hold the breath as they approach orgasm. That’s the worst thing you can do—you’ll ejaculate in seconds. Instead, relax your

Women need to learn how to let go, surrender and truly, madly, deeply love cock.

YOU SHOULD RUN FOR PRESIDENT. IS THAT YOUR GOAL, WOULD YOU SAY?

My goal is for all women to know that shooting ping pong balls with their vaginas is not just a special skill reserved for some Thai vaginas.

Every woman can do it.

I want to open up the global conversation about sex. My Instagram campaign #thingsiliftwithmyvagina has brought awareness to the fact that having a strong vagina benefits everyone.

When the global conversation opens up, there will be better dinner parties. This is good for me. I suck at small talk. I just make everyone talk about sex.

YOU ARE INVITED TO ALL OUR DINNER PARTIES. FEEL FREE TO RE-ARRANGE THE FURNITURE OR DOMINATE THE BEER PONG TABLE.

More sex talk at www.kimanami.com

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Ri gh t B rain

You may have noticed, Bali's once quaint village of Canggu has been rapidly changing. (Changgoo? Hmmm...there's a joke in there, but it's stupid.) Rice paddies became villas. Views become cafes. Cobras become hipsters. But amidst the gentrification, art is blooming. It covers the walls, unabashed. Unashamed.

Wild beautiful murals. Everywhere you look. Many of them were painted by people like crew from The Snake Hole. Many were painted by The Snake Hole crew actually. We asked them which ones. They made us some stickers.

THE SNAKE HOLE IS A FASCINATING NAME.

DID YOU DO MANY MURALS AND PASTE-UPS HERE?

Yeah, we usually get a laugh when people hear it. My nickname is 'Brownsnake' so when I decided to start a gallery naming it "The Snake Hole" was a no brainer.

Yeah we hit a few walls in Berawa and Canggu with our buddy Bazuco... So much fun!

SO IT'S A GALLERY?

One day in Canggu we attracted a huge crowd who sat and watched us paint all afternoon. It was really cool to hang out with them, we were psyched. We would always approach the owner and ask permission before we painted a wall and nine times out of ten they gave us the green light.

HOW DID THE LOCALS RESPOND?

It's a gallery space and art studio located in Mornington, an hour from Melbourne, Australia. We cover art, illustration, graphic design and photography. We do art shows and events, murals, and our own clothing range.

WHO’S INVOLVED?

Myself (Josh Brown) and Josh Meyer (a.k.a 'Meatballs') work out of The Snake Hole full-time as freelance graphic artists. Our friends Cam Stynes and Hayden O'Neill are around part-time. Cam's an artist and Hayden works as a surf and fashion photographer. There's always a bunch of crew dropping by distracting us.

WHAT CLIENTS HAVE ENLISTED YOUR SKILLS?

My own freelance work has been predominantly for surf fashion brands like Insight, Rhythm, T.C.S.S, Ksubi, Volcom, Vans, Element, Globe, Channel Islands, and a bunch more.

HOW’D YOUR RECENT BALI TRIP COME ABOUT?

My wife Sarah and I decided to spend three months in Bali this year, which was so much fun. Our photographer buds Hayden O'Neill and Cait Miers were doing the same, so we found a rad little villa in Berawa and bunked up. I'm pretty blessed to have a job that allows me to work from anywhere in the world.

DO YOU COME TO BALI OFTEN?

Yeah we love it, we try and make a trip every year if we can. As a surfer and artist, it really ticks all the boxes.

The waves are obviously world class and as an artist everything is so accessible and easy. I could definitley see myself relocating.

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DID ANY ARTIST'S WORK HERE CATCH YOUR EYE?

There is quite a large community of artists in Canggu and surrounding suburbs... and art everywhere! It's a great vibe for creatives. Some of our faves were from Bazuco, BMD, Animaux Circus & Beastman. You just need to jump on the scooter and do some exploring.

DESCRIBE YOUR TYPICAL DAY WHILE IN BALI VERSUS AT HOME IN AUSTRALIA.

In Bali I would wake up, surf, eat and work, jump in the pool, surf again in the afternoon then, beer, dinner, sleep, repeat. It's not a bad life, that's for sure.

Things are a little different back home... I don't get as much time in the water! My days are filled with work on our clothing range, organising art shows and events in the gallery, painting, illustrating, designing. I also manage another gallery called 'The Nook' which is located right night door to The Snake Hole.

WHO’S ART HAS BEEN TURNING YOU ON RECENTLY?

I really like BMD's work, there is heaps of their murals in Bali... Really cool. Ryan Ady Putra is one to check out too, his illustration work is tight!

WHAT’S NEXT FOR THE SNAKE HOLE?

Look out for our new clothing range hitting stores! Keep up with what we're doing at thesnakehole.com.

O'Neill

THE SNAKE HOLE

Hamish

O l d Sc ho o l

Meet the skipper who's been there, done that and then some.

CAPTAIN CHAOS On a recent Sunday afternoon, still slightly hungover, I rolled into TJ's Mexican in downtown Kuta to catch the elusive "Captain Chaos" for the first time, following months of failed attempts.

I'm met by a rakish Australian man sprawled on a day bed with a margarita in one hand, cigarette burning away in the other.

This is his zone between boat charters. He commands food and drink with a snap of the fingers and a smile, and conversation flows comfortably for the next few hours.

By the time I leave, we've eaten twice, downed a dozen rounds, and it's dark. I know I've only barely scraped the surface, but here's a few chapters from the greatest book no one's yet written, but really should.

Words: Binnsie

THE BEGINNINGS

DESERT POINT

My name's Kenneth Colledge. I'm fifty-one, born in Perth. I grew up there but later moved to a town called Lancelin to become a fisherman. That's where I got all my boating experience from – I cut my teeth crayfishing. I worked as a mail boy in Perth to fund my first trip to Bali in '79 and I came back pretty much every year since.

I was pretty culture-shocked on that first visit to be honest, but I had a few people to show me around. I knew I'd always come back, there was something I really liked about the place.

I first surfed Deserts in '81, '82.

There was a bit of conjecture about who discovered Deserts, but as far as I'm concerned it was a Kiwi.

I had some mates who used to stay on Lembongan and they got me on a trip to Deserts with them. It was during the transmigration period when the government relocated a lot of people from dense areas to less populated regions. So they'd taken poor folks from the Padangbai area and Nusa Penida, and moved them over to Labuan Poh (home of Bangko Bangko). Thing was, they put Hindus into a Muslim situation and they simply did not get on. 
Anyway, we went to Deserts on a seaweed boat out of Lembongan.

There was nothing there, the town didn't exist. It was all jungle, it was green, you wouldn't call it the desert like it is now. We weren't aware of any of the troubles until the captain wanted to see his family in Labuan Poh, and suddenly it was on! They were going at it with machetes, killing each other.

The next time we came back overland and it was full on, they were still going after each other, all over religion. The government just did not think that one through. That

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was four generations ago and they've learned to get along over the years, but back then it was radical. As for us surfers, they had no clue what the hell we were or what we were up to.

Has the wave changed? Not really, but it's a zoo in the water, there's a hundred guys out anytime it looks like breaking. And it's not a wave that can handle a hundred guys, it's such a tight takeoff with everyone jostling, hoping that others fall off.

October 11, 1996 was the best day I ever saw at Deserts. I'll never forget the date. It was late in the season and everyone had left except for a guy called Randy. Perfect, not a drop out of place. There was me and my mate Kim, Randy, and then a boat turned up with two Brazilians on board. So it was just handful of us, all high fiving.

I'd caught three waves, don't think I'd even got my hair wet, just tube after tube laughing about how much better it was going to get.

Then one of the Brazilians paddled over and told me Kim had hurt himself. I got to him and could just see blood everywhere. He was wearing one of those old Gath helmets with a visor, and the board had smashed the visor and cut through

his eyelid and all around his eye.

I offered to stitch him up on the boat, but because it was his eye Kim was adamant he needed to get back to Bali. So, the decision was made that his eye was more important than perfect Desert Point.

It was a yacht too, not a power boat, so it was a long trip back. I'll never forget, we pulled the pick and drifted down with the tide and it was just smoking. I looked at Kim and was like, "you fucking prick!" And Randy loved telling us afterwards that it was as good as he'd ever seen it, just absolutely perfect. I'll never forgive Kim for it! I still hate him over it!

THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS

MARTIN DALY

RICK CAMERON

It was either '92 or '93 that I first went to the Mentawais with Billabong, and we made that movie Sik Joy. Back then there was only Martin Daly and I doing charters, might have been one other boat.

The Mentawais were just coming onto the map, they were still really hush hush. No one had setup camp yet, we were working out of Padang but there were no expats, no one was living there yet.

That trip was amazing, the only local we saw was a local shaman from the Siberut people, with all of his beads and bamboo tattoos, carrying his bow and arrow. It was full on.

The best surfing I've ever seen would have to be Occy during that trip. He was just absolutely ripping.

Shane Dorian, Luke Egan, Munga Barry, Brenden Margieson, even Lowey was ripping. What am I talking about, they all rip!

We were always civil to each other in the early days of the Ments, but deep down I guess we were rivals. The first time I crossed paths with Martin he was on the Rip Curl Search program with Tom Curren and everyone. We all got on the piss and it was friendly, but he told me to stay out of his way or he'd blow my windows out with his gun, that sorta stuff. He liked to talk himself up and carry on like it was his area, whereas I figured it was anyone's area really. Haha! Not long after that we became really friendly though, due to the influx of boats. It went from two to five to seven, and at one point there were 14 boats operating and we thought, "Fuck, that's too many."

We held a big meeting and tried to get a Mentawai organization together. We wanted to get the government to actually license the region, and you'd have to pay a yearly fee to have one of those licenses. In hindsight, if everyone had cooperated back then the Mentawais would be far better today, but everyone kept fighting and was only in it for themselves. And don't get me started on Rick Cameron. He's a fucken arsehole, mate. Had me and my missus thrown in jail. Absolute prick.

He was there early, he'd worked his way through Indonesia and apparently stole some marks off Martin, GPS locations of a few waves. He was a shrewd operator. He had a boat he'd built himself, and got wind that there were waves in the Mentawais. Not that he was a surfer. He had plenty of charters and investors though, mainly crew from WA, and he was doing okay.

He managed to get the Sumatran government to issue a decree that his company could control the region. It was only a decree, it would never get passed as a law, but that's how he was acting, and he was telling everyone he had sole rights to the Mentawais.

He funded the army to go out and hassle all the other boats. He'd do other things, like ring skippers' wives while they were on charter and say he was having their husbands arrested. He wanted to get everyone under his banner then take 20% of everyone's earnings to run it.

His plan was to make the Mentawais high end, which I was firmly against. Five hundred bucks a day, that sort of thing, but my theory was if a guy pushes a cart at Woolworths he has as much right to surf the Mentawais as anyone else. So,

if you're gonna do this "I own the Mentawais" thing, then you need to have levels; a budget tier, the middle ground, then sure, the upper echelon. He didn't like that, so we butted heads. He butted heads with everyone. He dobbed Martin into the police for having a gun on his boat, he fucked Paul King over, he did all sorts of terrible things. Prick of a man.

He had a beautiful boat called the San Souci, probably the nicest boat up there at the time, and on one of his first trips after the decree he got some of the navy on board and cruised around to all the breaks hassling skippers about where their permits were. And these things didn't exist.

You'd be sitting on your boat at Macaronis or wherever, and a dinghy would pull up and a bunch of blokes with machine guns would board and harass you for your permit. It got ugly and it freaked out the guests, naturally. It 100% breaks international maritime laws, but those guys were a law unto themselves.

People see the Mentawais these days and just don't know the history behind it all, but in the early days it was pretty bloody ugly.

Natedogg

THINGS THAT GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT

My first major mishap was a big one. We were on a promotional trip for Oxbow with a Nat Young, Joel Tudor, a longboarding dentist called Fix, and a couple of others including photographer Tim McKenna.

Anyway, we went to Deserts and it was shit, and on the way home swung through the Gili Islands. I was lying on a bunk in the wheelhouse and my deckie had just taken watch.

I watched him light up a cigarette, which lit up the radar and I could see there was nothing coming. It was a dark night, but calm.

We were cruising along then suddenly, BANG! I thought we'd hit a log, and it had actually shut down one of the engines, so I knew it was big. Then the deckie opened the wheelhouse door and all we heard were people screaming. We'd absolutely fucken T-boned this boat, and you looked out on the water and there were people everywhere!

It was a wooden boat, no lights, just drifting, waiting for the tide. I'd turned the other engine to idle so we were drifting amongst all the debris.

We'd just turned the fucken thing into matchsticks.

I knew we had two choices: go get 'em, and get in a whole heap of shit, or leave 'em, but I knew there would have been women and children at risk. We decided to try and get them, and we'd deal with the other shit later.

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There was a guy on the back on the transom board, so we pulled him aboard and when we did we realised he had no legs, just two stumps. It turned out he was the captain, and obviously he'd gone through the props and ended up on the back of our boat. He told us there were 19 people onboard when we hit them, so we got the spotlight out and started fishing them all out. There was another guy who's foot had been all but chopped off, it was hanging on by a thread.

The dentist went into full ER mode. He'd been training to be a doctor then ended up a dentist, but he knew what he was doing. We had these Flying Doctor kits, full of bandages and morphine and he just went to work. Tudor absolutely freaked then disappeared, Nat was around for a bit then he vanished too. But the dentist and McKenna both got stuck right in.

Thankfully most of them were just wet and cold and we had boxes and boxes of Oxbow clothes, so we were giving out windcheaters and raincoats and whatnot. The captain kept saying there was one more person, and we had to keep looking. So we did, we looked and looked and finally he was like, over there! And we saw this bit of wood with a goat tied to it!

So we finally got back to Lombok and the whole town was there and wanted to kill us for running over

their friends. The captain even said he couldn't believe we'd stopped, because he obviously knew what we were about to go through.

We got them off the boat and the captain asked me to help keep him alive long enough to tell the police it was his fault, but he died. The other guy who almost lost his foot turned out to be a real prick, and he rallied everyone else and I got charged with murder, and had the boat impounded. The surfers were long gone by this stage, though Tim McKenna offered to stay on with us.

We were put under house arrest for two weeks, on the boat with two armed guards. Every afternoon the tide would change, the boat would start rocking and the guards would get seasick. So I told them I knew this great anchorage over on Sumbawa, 20 minutes away. They were happy for us to go there, which we did, but I'd stop at Scar Reef on the way and have a quick surf.

In the end, the whole situation came down to a payout, and we coughed up USD $25,000. Eleven-thousand went to the people on the boat, they each had a claim, and the rest went straight to the court...

Years later, I learned that the case had never really been closed. I was still on file in Lombok on a murder charge, which is a bit of a worry.

That was pretty radical mate, it was really fucken radical.

Natedogg

DUDE, WHERE'S MY BOAT?

I lost my first one at Panaitan. We were having engine issues so I took off to Singapore to get a part, leaving the cook behind with the boat. A few days later, I chartered a speed boat to take me back out and the boat wasn't where I'd left it.

We drove around for a while looking for it, and then we heard this yelling from my mate on the beach.

He'd cooked bacon for breakfast, left the grill on and then went for a surf. Looks back at the boat, saw this big plume of smoke, and reckons by the time they got back to it they couldn't get within 100ft, it was so hot. That part wasn't much use to me after that.

Next boat was in the Kimberly.

Thankfully, the owner was driving at the time. He hit a rock. Opened it up like a can of beans, and we had no choice but to try and run it aground.

We tried to save everything but that was a write-off.

I kidnapped a bloke once in Indo, too. It was night and we had a boat following us. I started doing all these erratic movements, and sure enough he kept on following us. So I stopped the boat and started drifting when suddenly from nowhere a Padang fishing boat slammed into us. And then it revved and drove back into us a few times. Bang! Kaboom! Bang!

Dented the shit outta my boat, smashed a window, scraped heaps of paint and trashed a railing, then

it took off, just like that.

So I was like, "Fuck this!" and jumped in the speedboat with one of the crew and went out at full speed looking for them, and suddenly there they were. At a pretty fair pace, like 20-knots, we rammed straight into the side of the boat and boom, we went straight over the gunnel and mounted their boat. I don't know what I was thinking but I leant out, grabbed one of the crew and yanked him onboard as we slid back into the water then took off. Poor bastard was shitting himself!

We pulled up alongside them and I said they could get their mate back in Padang, but they had to explain themselves to the harbour master and admit to what they had done.

On the way, back one of our Indonesian crew got talking to the guy. It turned out he was pretty young and inexperienced, and his captain had gone to sleep and told him to keep heading for the red light, meaning Padang harbour. Then we'd come along and he'd seen our red light and just headed for that instead. He'd followed instructions so well that he crashed right into us.

In the end, grabbing a hostage worked out because they had to pay for all of the damage. It was the one time in my life that things fell in to place, but sure enough in the paper the next day the headline was "Captain Ken Kidnaps Crew."

THE FIRE STATION, SANUR Tired of the same smelly faces on Sundays? We are too. That's why we've changed our night to Monday.

Yep, Monday's at The Fire Station.

Two for One cocktails, and not the bathtub-brewed cocktails. Real alcohol. Take it in a shot or take it how our boy Ham Hump does, in an Amaretto Sour. Two turns to four which turns to six. Now you're ready to stumble down the street to 69x.

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Hamish

Food & D r in k

Natedogg

WARUNG BAMBUKU, SUNSET ROAD A classic Indonesian warung with modern values. Meaning no MSG or LSD. Choose red, yellow and white rice. Choose orange, ginger and carrot juice. Choose the eggplant, even if you don't like eggplant.

Choose the tempeh and the tofu, chicken and beef rendang. Choose it all because it's all good and it's all Indonesian. Remember that stuff?

Indonesian food.

Just on the border of no return lies a shop. A Super Shop. It's vegan. But wait, stay with us. It's not vegan, vegan. It's good vegan. Coconut milk in the coffee and kiwis in the dragon fruit bowl. Tofu scrambles and homemade gluten-free desserts.

Eating healthy is easy, but tasting good is hard. Kill two Bali dogs with one arrow when you eat here. Wait, is that vegan?

56

Natedogg

PELOTON SUPER SHOP, BATU BELIG

Scotty

THE SEED, SEMINYAK (and everywhere with Go-Jek) Sourcing organic ingredients and supporting local farmers is the name of the game. And these coldpressed juices have flavor oozing out of every seed. There's nothing we love more than toxicating our bodies with smoke and alcohol. But if you wanna live to 40 and not look like Steven Tyler, then you gotta balance it all out. A 1, 3 or 5 day juice cleanse will shave 5 years off your face and 2 sizes off your waist.

Plant the seed for a healthier you.

PSYCHIC Ozzie Wright, Mitch Coleborn, and Yago Dora's trip to the Mentawais really got us thinking about life and shit.

58

MIGRATIONS Words by NM / Photography by Tom Carey & Scott Stinnett

THERE IS A VIBRATION CONNECTING EVERYTHING. The yogis call it Prana.

The Hawaiians call it Mana. Chinese call it Chi and Japanese call it Ki. Baraka. Wakan. Jesus H. Christ. The names go on and on, but the vibration remains nameless.

No matter where we come from or what we believe, people everywhere recognize this energy. We seek connection to it.

How could we not? The turn of the moon. The change of the tide. The pulse of the waves. We feel it everywhere. From a mother’s lullaby to the explosion at Hiroshima, the infinite spectrum of vibrations connect us all.

We name it God. Then we murder each other in its name. Probably for the best.

As a people. As a society. We are connected by roads. From five-lane freeways to narrow jungle trails, every road leads us to and from each other.

The things we need. The things we desire. The road between them.

From the sky, these roads resemble the arteries of a human body. The nervous system wiring our brains to our fingertips. The veins of leaves.

The rivers flowing from mountain to sea. Pulsing forth from heart-like cities and capillary country roads.

Each direction is organic and alive as a beating heart.

From a plane or a satellite, it’s beautiful. It’s familiar. It is Life.

But down on the ground, we honk our horns and scream at each other.

Too slow. Too fast. In my way. Out of my way. Fuck you, asshole. Potholes and egos. Agendas and idiots.

Our roads pulse with emotion and longing. Millions of desires hustling to and from. Barking and cursing.

Breaking down. Crashing into each other. It’s awful.

Does Life also look like this on a cellular level? Stressed and harried in the veins of plants and the narrows of a river? In bloodstreams and deep ocean currents, honking their horns and cursing strangers. Do white blood cells ever shake their fists in rage?

60

“Desire causes suffering.” — B U D D H A

“The purpose of life is to be happy.” — D A L A I

62

L A M A

X I V

IF ROADS CONNECT SOCIETY, DREAMS BIND THEM TOGETHER.

Like the unmarked areas of a map.

Like the space between threads of fabric. Essential and impossible. The way roots hold soil firm in the rain.

Invisible and sticky as spider’s silk.

Entangling us despite every intention. Without darkness, there could be no light. Without madness, there could be no truth.

This is the blood pulsing in the veins of all our twisting and outraged roads. Delivering oxygen to and from the heart of everything. Nameless.

Meaningless. And everything else.

If roads demark our desires, then dreams reflect our truth. The capillary footpaths stepping out beyond the flow of traffic. Pushing us into the unknown wilderness of our desires.

Deep forests. Open oceans. Lost islands. They’re only dreams. Evolving us in ways we could not imagine on our own. From water to land.

From land to air. From air to space.

From space to water again. The universe in a teardrop. Monkeys with speedboats.

Turn off your engine. Close your eyes. Listen to the silent clockwork of evolution stuck in traffic.

Asleep, we travel the roads that are yet to exist. We pave the future.

We are born with into unconscious knowledge, and yet we struggle to tap its source. To connect with its guiding power. We wake up screaming.

And once we are awake, we are lost.

64

“All you need is love.”—

66

J O H N

L E N N O N

THE MAP WAS ALWAYS HERE. Coded into the path of the very water that forms our bodies. Ocean currents and the angle of a river. Falling rain.

Reservoirs beneath the mountain.

The curve of the oceans. The vortex of the unconscious.

Animals see it clearly. The migration patterns of birds and whales.

Lost dogs finding their way home.

Blind bats in the cave. Moles underground. Penguins doing penguins stuff.

Our DNA already knows the way.

It’s going there…wherever there might be. There’s no stopping us.

Turning back would still be going there. Standing still is just progress we don’t understand yet. It’s okay to scream. Scream like you’re trapped on a motherfucking rollercoaster.

Because you are.

We’re born screaming. Our first gasp of air. Pure desire. Feed me.

Cuddle me. Let me sleep. Fleshy balls of desire and feces.

Then more complex desires take hold. They drive us to crawl. To walk.

To wander the earth. To rule it with an iron fist. To steal, fuck, booze and destroy it all with the press of a button. That’s progress.

And still we want more. The summit of the mountain and the stars in the sky. Planets to call our own.

To infinity and beyond. Until our screams of desire ultimately abandon our mortal coils. Twenty one grams, lifted and gone.

Like a sigh of relief.

The end of desire. The end of the road. Psychic Migrations. That’s all it ever was. Merrily merrily merrily merrily…

“The future ain’t what is used to be.” — Y O G I

DARKNESS. Silence. Peace.

It’s all we ever really wanted.

Not cheeseburgers and bacon. Not iPhones and reality TV. Not mocha lattes and anal beads. Instagram and toilet paper. Big Macs. Starbucks.

Peach schnapps and instant noodles.

Just a bit of goddamn peace and quiet.

Sometimes a reflection is more real than the thing being reflected.

Everything is just a metaphor of itself.You’ve never actually seen your own face.

Force is force. Matter is matter.

Will is will. Infinite is infinite.

Nothing is nothing. We have no intention of arriving. We see only what we see. We are lost. We are never lost.

And we will know the edge when we cross over it.

We are not strangers here.

The great conspiracy is that there is no conspiracy. Nothing but immortality. The universe has not center and no edges. Stray dogs, wandering in traffic.

Turn off the TV. Breath, for now. Death will come.

It will be everything you always dreamed.

B E R R A

70

I WANTED TO SAY SOMETHING ABOUT WAVES Four decades after pioneering Uluwatu, surf yogi GERRY LOPEZ returns to teach yoga, talk story and dance with his ghosts. So much has changed.

By Nathan Myers Photography by Tommy Schultz and Rip Zinger

He arrives in the dead of night. Wise surf yoda. Reunited with the scene of the crime. Mr. Pipeline in the land of the gods. Decades overdue.

In 1974, when Gerry Lopez first surfed Uluwatu, there were no crowds, no traffic, no massage parlor nightclub Starbucks Mini-Mart Circle K morning price hipster cappuccino yoga barn custom motorbike straight razor barber shop Bintang Radlers. There was coconuts. There was rice paddies. The waves were empty and the days were long. Nothing to buy. No one to hassle. Just surf all day and wait out the tides in the cool shade of The Cave. Uluwatu was a myth waiting to be told.

Forty years later, twilight is fading on the morning of the earth. Uluwatu is a teeming favela of pop-up warungs, t-shirt venders, ding repair dudes and freelance photographers selling international drop-in artists their own stinkbug selfies. Paradise. It smells like poop. A rabid monkey. A penis-shaped bottle opener.

And yet somehow it remains magical. Holy. Cathedral.

A surf mecca like no other. Like every other. Perfect.

Ruined. Amazing.

Gerry’s hosts pick him up from the airport and whisk him through the midnight darkness – past traffic, pollution, luke-warm Bintangs and 24-hour construction sites – to arrive at the garden paradise of the Uluwatu Surf Villas. The big grass lawn overlooks the all-day sunset and the waves of outside Ulu, but somehow blocks out views of the crowd. A private staircase leads to the waves. Plunge pools and daily yoga. Massages and vegan cheesecake. Gentle gamelan soundtrack.

Cool offshore breezes. Relentless swell. The dream of Uluwatu remains, it just changed addresses.

About everything else, Gerry had been warned.

Put on your airplane eye-mask and don’t take it off ’til you’re paddling out, they said. And that’s almost how it happened. He awakens to a 10-foot swell marching across Uluwatu’s epic array of take-offs. Stretches out on the lawn. Everyone else is bubbling over, “Are we out there?” Mr. Pipeline just smiles his coy Buddha smile.

Not even a question.

Did I mention the private access staircase?

Gerry opts for the stand-up paddleboard. More power.

View of the sets. At 66 years old, he’s always done things his own way. Shaped his own boards. Surfed his own waves. Left Pipeline for windsurfing. Left windsurfing for snowboarding. And so on. While he’s as still fit as anyone, Lopez hasn’t trained hard enough for this trip.

Not like he used to. The SUP will be safer.

The inshore pummels him, but he makes it out. A set catches him inside, but again he holds position. He is Gerry Lopez. Everyone else in the lineup can’t wait to get back to their Instagram accounts and post this shit. Sharing the lineup with Gerry-freaking-Lopez. He catches a series of bombs and their hoots and hollers echo along the cliffs. He’s back. And he’s paddling out for more.

That's when the set comes, of course. It catches everyone off guard, but no one more than the old guy on the stand up paddle. Total yard sale. Gerry’s swimming.

The current sweeps him past the cave in the no man’s

“Waves are hard to ride. And in the process of learning this difficult and uncompromising activity we learn there are many interesting parallels about life.

While the waves of life are more difficult to ride than the waves on the ocean, when we apply the lessons learned on the ocean we sometimes find that easier paddle out, like hooking into the rip current that slides us smoothly past the closed out sets of day-to-day life and maybe get to the outside lineup keeping our hair dry.”

land of unscale-able cliffs, and what was meant to be an emotional reunion is now a fight for survival. Welcome back, Mr. Lopez.

Just past the eddy of the cave, Gerry spots his board.

He swims hard and grabs it just before it hits the rocks.

Then, remembering an old trick, he paddles back along the cliff face, around the corner and into the high-tide cave.

Echoes in the chamber. A tidal surge of memories.

Familiar and unfamiliar. Same same but different. Home and far far away. Exhausted, he mounts the steps into Downtown Uluwatu. Zooluwatu. Uluwatu City.

“I was ready for a shock,” he says, “but by the time I got there I was already in shock. I don’t know…” He leaves the thought unfinished. Shocked.

The old women of Uluwatu remember him right away.

“Mr. Gerry,” they call. “You come back. Still look young.

So handsome. You like buy t-shirt? Massage?”

Thirty years later, they’re still right here. They never left. They never grew up. They never forget. This is Uluwatu. And Uluwatu remembers.

Gerry hauls his big SUP up through the unfamiliar concrete corridors, choked by stickers, resin, novelty memorabilia and the scent of human shit. Monkeys crawl past in bored demure. A monitor lizard scurries into the cave wall. Tourists stare as the small grey yogi navigates his retreat through the wreckage of paradise.

He’s somehow familiar to them, but they can’t quite figure it out how or why.

He’s the reason they’re all here.

Now he faces the crowd. Guru storyteller. Tribal elder.

Teacher. Father. Shaper. Pioneer. There was never a crowd before. But everything changes all the time. They want to know. What was it like before? Before all these goddamn people found out.

“Me and my big mouth,” says Gerry under his breath and into the microphone. He smiles. Gentle Buddha.

Loves a well-played joke. He’s been telling stories all his life.

These days, Gerry’s famous “talk story” nights are a slow boat to another dimension. Wireless and disconnected. Timeless campfire enchantment. “They say a photo tells a thousand words,” says Gerry, “but people still wanna hear stories. It’s the Hawaiian way.

The mo'olelo — the story behind everything.”

He’s been here a week now. Teaching yoga to a small group of acolytes. Surfing meditative five and six hour sessions with his pro snowboarder son, Alex.

And telling stories to anyone who will listen. They flow from him as naturally as breath. Stories on set of Conan the Barbarian with Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Stories of blowing up Malibu hillsides with Stephen Spielberg. Stories of pioneering Pipeline and discovering snowboarding. Stories of Big Wednesday. Miki Dora.

Brewer. G-Land. He tells stories. And he does yoga.

For Gerry, surfing and yoga are parallel paths.

Interwoven religions that define his existence. “I believe my life and my purpose here,” he says, “which was all laid out before me long before it even started, is meant to discover the connections between surfing and yoga.”

It’s the topic of his next book, and the direction of his every thought and action.

Yoga found Gerry in his early 20s, around the same time he started getting serious about surfing.

The movement…the breathing…the meditation and discipline… the practical nothingness of both activities appealed deeply to him. In his very first class (which he took to meet girls), he recalls the revelation: “If you could apply all this to the waves, man….”

Over the next few decades, the yoga and surfing would evolve in parallel for Lopez, guiding his every step both to and away from waves. “In Hawaiian, the word for energy is Mana,” he explains. “And to the yogis, the word is Prana. It’s no coincidence that the words were so closely related.”

Gerry begins his Uluwatu Talk Story by leading 100 guests in an hour of deep, strenuous “Yin” yoga on the sunset lawn overlooking Ulu. As darkness falls, Rob Machado takes to the small stage to introduce “his hero.” They hug. Then Lopez takes the microphone and begins to explain how surfing is life’s ultimate metaphor.

“A wave is the same as the ocean,” he says, “though it is not the whole ocean. Each wave of creation is a part of the eternal spirit. The ocean can exist without the waves, but the waves cannot exist without the ocean.”

Forget your surf-mag mysticism. This is Gerry’s truth.

Surfing as a way of life. Surfing as everything. Gerry found it. Even when he left is all behind. Windsurfing.

Snowboarding. Stretching. Breathing. Surfing, wherever you find it.

He tells the story of his first arrival in Bali in 1974.

“Maybe I should feel bad about how much things have changed here,” says Gerry. “But I don’t. Things change.

You can’t feel bad about it. And the same things that brought me here in the first place are the same things that brought all of you. And they’re just as wonderful as they ever were. Maybe there are a few more people in the lineup, but the waves are exactly the same as they ever were. Still good surf.”

“They are difficult and dangerous to ride, but they’re our waves. No one can ride them for us. And on these waves we encounter outside sets of doubt, shallows reefs of guilt, and closeout sets of fear. With endless rips, currents and tide changes, we easily and often lose our way. Our board gets dinged, takes on water and buckles when we need it most. And if none of this lends itself to a peaceful and happy state of mind, we need one to stay on the waves. So where do we find the balance and direction to keep our feet on the board and stay ahead of the white water?”

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

Uluwatu is a mess, but it was never perfect. Way back when, it was difficult to reach and difficult to stay close to. Now there’s traffic the whole way and it’s hard to find parking. That’s kinda the reason for this whole event in the first place: a fundraiser for Project Clean Uluwatu (PCU). To recognize and evolve with the changing times.

On stage with Gerry sits Maryland surfer, Tim Russo, a longtime Bali resident and co-founder of PCU. “The problem was simply that things grew too rapidly without much of a plan,” explains Russo. “It’s a common problem all over Bali, but because Uluwatu being a world famous surf break it was especially bad here. If it’s going to continue to evolve, we need to put some better support systems into place.”

An estimated 500,000 people visit Uluwatu every year.

Over the past three decades, a few local coconut stands have grown into an entire economy. Dozens of restaurants, hotels and nightclubs now populate the otherwise infertile Bukit Peninsula. Meanwhile, banana leaves and coconut husks became plastic bags and glass bottles. Thatch roofs and bamboo walls became cement and rebar. There are no building permits. No regulations. The trash stacks up. The gutters overflow. The toilets flush into the riverbed. And every year when the first big rains hit, beautiful Uluwatu purges itself into a blackwater cesspool of human indignity.

That’s usually when a nice swell hits, too.

No one’s problem and everyone’s problem.

Surfing did this. Created a human eco-system on otherwise infertile soil. An economy of waves. A holy pilgrimage to the edge of nowhere. Beautiful. Devastating.

But what if the problem could also become the solution?

What if “localism” referred to caretaking sacred ground rather than shouting down kooks? Uluwatu has provided jobs, tourism, and economy to the Bukit Peninsula – not to mention epic waves for thousands of traveling surfers.

Even today, a trip through the cave is a cosmic, magical experience. Across the reef, the cliff front towers around you. Glorious church of the open sky. Surfing continues, three hundred sixty three days a year here, in all its human glory. Stinky water or not.

“I grew up in Hawaii,” Gerry tells the audience. “So I’ve seen how tourism effects the community there and makes things grow and change so quickly. I understand that’s part of having a place that’s so wonderful, like it is here in Bali. Word’s gonna get out. Have any of you ever gone home and not told everyone what a wonderful trip you just had. I don’t think so. And that’s exactly why we have to protect it.”

Following a tenacious series of concerts, auctions, movie nights and bake sales, the team of Project Clean Uluwatu designed and implemented an entire bio-septic waste treatment system along with wastewater gardens, transforming nasty human poop into fertile garden soil.

Completing the cycle. With the success of Gerry’s Talk Story night, they are now preparing to plant the gardens and get the pumps running on the system.

“It’s really cool that a group of dedicated surfers are out here saving this place,” says Gerry, “because it’s surfers that screwed it up in the first place. And now they’re fixing it.”

Yoda is pleased. He shares a few more stories. Sunsets.

Gland tigers. Later forays into the Mentawais. Local children waving goodbye. “Have you ever seen a Balinese child not smiling,” he asks.

Gerry smiles at the gentle crowd. He gives so much of himself. And now he’s tired. The stars all rub their eyes and twinkle in the sky. He’s not saving Uluwatu, just lending his voice. Reflecting on the change. And shining a bit of his inner light.

In the morning, Uluwatu is crowded again. And Gerry Lopez is gone.

“I’ve been studying yoga for a long time and I’ve found that the state of Samadhi (enlightened consciousness) can be attained through deeply focused meditation. I’ve been a surfer for a long time, too. And I truly believe the focus necessary to surf successfully is also a state of deep meditation. So it just may be that we were onto something much deeper than we knew when we first decided surfing was going to be our life.”

On the speedboat boat to G-Land, Gerry is silent. No more stories. No more stretching. The cheerful yogi takes the roll of somber monk. Focused and intense.

Machado sits next to him, recreating one of his favorite memories of meeting his childhood hero on a long boat to G-Land and finally arriving to find it empty. On that trip, they talked the whole way. Rob got to ask every question he’d ever dreamed of. And in many ways, he’s assumed his hero’s roll. The Gerry Lopez of the Momentum Generation. But on this trip, maybe the engines are too loud. Maybe it’s too early. Too crowded.

"G-Land is class 5 wave," he says. "And one of my rules is that you don't go there without proper conditioning.

And I haven't been conditioning for this trip."

He's been surfing 5 hour sessions all week. Doing yoga twice a day. His head stands and arm-presses are a site to behold, leaving fellow travelers Rastovich and Machado in awe. But Gerry's concern is palpable. He takes G-Land seriously.

If the "G" in G-Land didn't stand for Gragagan, it would stand for Gerry. While legends of the breaks discovery contradict each other, no one disputes that Lopez was the first great master out there. When Uluwatu got too crowded, he stopped going there altogether.

G-Land was it.

The G-Land missions were different from Ulu. There were no warungs or porters. No hotels to return to. No smiling Balinese ibus to serve you nasi after a long day in the waves.

The jungle here is an impenetrable tangle of bamboo bramble, such that they used a tarp to make shade on the beach rather than risk it countless horrors. They slept in the trees. "One night we complained about the ladder to the tree-house being so dang high," Gerry said in the slide show. "That night the tiger in the jungle started

meowing REALLY loud. The next day the ladder wasn't high enough."

Other pictures from the slide show depict surfers pumping iron and working out around the G-Land camp. These always felt somehow staged before, but now it makes sense. Training for the wave was part of the pilgrimage. Respecting its power. No small thing.

Arriving at G-Land with Gerry, Rasta and Machado, not to mention Rizal Tanjung, Marlon Gerber, and Craig Anderson, one might expect some level of fanfare and excitement. But the jungle doesn't care how many signature board shorts you sold last year. Sand maggots tear everyone's feet equally. Monkeys steal your food then threaten your life with horrific fangs. The reef is jagged, urchin-covered and stingy with its keyholes. This entire place just wants you to bleed, wants you to show weakness, then devour you alive.

Aside from that, Bobby’s Surf Camp is quite accommodating. Cozy cabins. Tastes meals. Footy on TV. Free wifi and beer on tap. This was the original camp, just forty years later. Everything changed. There are people here now with no intention of surfing. Russian Surf Schoolers who will paddle longboards out at the Tiger Tracks beachbreak then return to the motherland with tales of surfing the famous G-Land. With Gerry Lopez and Rob Machado!

Peter McCabe is here too. One of the Gerry’s oldest friends and a G-Land original. He’s celebrating his 60th birthday, with 25 or so friends from Australia. Insta-crowd.

But what’s new. Despite a kilometer worth of potential take-off spots, G-Land is crowded. But regardless of its fame and legacy, the break has never quite fit the mold of competitions and film crews. They try. But they rarely return. G-Land is harsh and difficult. A challenge under any circumstances. And that’s why people come here.

“Surfing and yoga teach us about living a life in harmony with nature. The most natural thing we do, the simple act of breathing really becomes the foundation of our surfing and yoga practices. For many of us, every time we paddle out or come to our mat this may be the only time we actually breath the right way.

We were born knowing how to breath properly, but somewhere along the way life came along and we forgot.”

Peter and Gerry climb the tower and spend a long time examining the lineup. Memory lane. Old scars. Echoes from the jungle.

They return to their rooms without a word. Gerry waxes up slowly. Stretches for a long time. Not a word from his mouth.

Out in the lineup, there’s no sentimentality. G-Land is all business. Our tightknit crew of pros is scattered across the mile-long reef, hunting peaks and barrels and moments. True to history, Gerry catches a handful of classic 6- and 8-footers, gliding down the line like a ghost of himself. Graceful and meditative. Stylish and indifferent. Climb and drop. Trim and flow. Some things never change.

Eventually though, the lip finds him and pushes him deep underwater. His leash breaks and Gerry washes across the reef. Unscathed. But finished.

“She let me off easy,” he says. “But you gotta remain respectful. It’s a powerful wave and the price of a mistake can be very expensive.”

Maybe he’s speaking in metaphors. Maybe he’s just talking waves. Maybe there’s not difference between the two. It doesn’t matter. This is not a place for speaking.

Back in the boat, he stares up the crowded lineup.

Perhaps 80 surfers from all around the world. “I never imagined surfing would come this far,” he says. “But you know, this is the world we live in, and you’ve gotta accept that. It is what is what it is, and that’s what it is.”

A set rolls through and the first one escapes unridden.

Gerry mind-surfs the empty wave, arching and flaring through four decades of history and style. “But you know what,” he says, kicking out on the inside. “The waves are exactly the same as they always were. Life is good.”

The boat returns to Bali. Gerry returns to Oregon. The waves remain the same.

80

“His holiness the 14th Dalai Lama was once asked what surprised him most about man. And he answered ‘Man. Because he sacrifices his health to get more money. Then he sacrifices his money to regain his health. He's so anxious about the future that he’s unable to live in the present. The result being that he’s not able to live in either the present or the future. He lives as if he’s never going to die. Then dies having never really lived.’

The message here is that life is for the living. So if you have the intention to live life to the fullest, even if you miss a few waves along the way, you’re still doing good.”

—Gerry Lopez

Learn more about Project Clean Uluwatu at www.projectcleanuluwatu.com and watch Nathan Myers’ upcoming film “The More Things Change: Gerry Lopez Uluwatu Talk Story”

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We look at photos. Everyday. A ritual, for most of us. Wake up, pick up the phone and swipe through an endless supply of feeds. Instagram. Facebook.

Snapchat. Tinder. Dogfart. Whatever. They blur past us. Numbing.

Underwhelming. Forgettable. What does it mean?

But these photos are different. Please understand that. The four international photographers we've gathered for this feature understand that. They've known that since the beginning. And that's why there are no waterfalls in this feature. No sunsets, either. No cappuccinos or inspirational quotes.

There's just real life. Remember that stuff? These images will help.

Four shooters. Four portfolios. Four points of view. It means something. We don't know what exactly...but we feel it. Inspiring. Stirring. Unforgettable.

We've asked them questions, but the answers are in the images. Go ahead: swipe right, now.

LEANDRO QUINTERO 36, Buenos Aires, Argentina.

CURRENTLY LIVE:

FILM OR DIGITAL:

Jakarta.

Film... because for me photography is a FACT, it makes me re-connect with reality, hence with the REAL, and now more than ever with digital technologies pushing us into a permanent denial behavior. It’s important in sociological terms to go back to honesty.

DESCRIBE YOUR APPROACH TO PHOTOGRAPHY:

My approach to photography is very honest, no special effects and a very versatile drive by curiosity towards life.

WHO INSPIRES YOU?

WHAT IS INDONESIA TO YOU:

Francis Bacon, J.G Ballard, William Eggleston, Godard, Boris Mikhailov, Deleuze, Adrienne Rich, Phillip Glass, David Lynch... I will need few issues for myself to keep adding to this list.

Indonesia to me means many things. It is the country where the person I love (my girlfriend) and many friends come from. A hell of a paradise (clearly, I’m not talking about Jakarta), which is the very clear example of everything that goes wrong with a filthy wild capitalism.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD PHOTOGRAPH:

LIFE above all. An image that through colors and composition open a domain of sensation and end up locking you up in a interdependent experience.

INTERESTS OUTSIDE OF PHOTOGRAPHY:

Poetry, philosophy, sociology, music... generally speaking all kind of art forms.

WHAT DO YOU HATE ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY:

IS PHOTOGRAPHY A JOB:

I hate the current delusional digital post production state of photography. I deeply hate everything that make us (humans) being detached from each other. I hate narcissistic practice. I don’t want to hate that much anyway. I’d rather talk about the weather.

Photography is a job, a hell of romantic job. If I wasn't doing photography I will be a proud criminal. 100%.

BEST PLACE TO TRAVEL:

I've been traveling more than half of my life now. I feel lucky considering that many people can't move from their homes and others are forced to move somewhere. The world would be nicer without hierarchies. Each place is special. Travel with your eyes open and your brain ON, but sometimes you might need to turn your heart off... otherwise it could be really painful to understand human activities. I've never manage to do so though.

FAVORITE CAMERA:

I love to play with all kind of cameras.

FAVORITE LENS:

Still, my favorite lens are Carl Zeiss.

HOW DO YOU ENGAGE WITH YOUR SUBJECT?

I engage with everything. I’m not a passive observer. I think the sense of presence in my work emerges quiet strongly despite the subjects.

WHAT PUSHES YOU OUTSIDE OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE?

I think high levels of curiosity will never allow you to fall within a comfort zone.

WHY DO YOU TAKE PHOTOS:

I take pictures because I’m highly interested in the decay of human activities. My romanticism remains there. It’s a way of prizing life and a being alive; how my heart beats on daily basis through this love and hate relationship that we call "existence." And this implies stories and a lot of narrative and, of course, a very personal language.

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ANGGA PRATAMA 34, Bandung, Indonesia.

CURRENTLY LIVE:

FILM OR DIGI:

Bali.

Film... Because it has more feels.

DESCRIBE YOUR APPROACH TO PHOTOGRAPHY:

WHAT IS INDONESIA TO YOU:

Genuine belief in my work and passionate about it has gotten me a long way.

Home.

WHO'S WORK INSPIRES YOU:

Jameson on the roxxx.

INTERESTS OUTSIDE OF PHOTOGRAPHY:

Viviane Sassen, Nobuyoshi Araki, Wolgang Tillmans, Ren Hang.

IS PHOTOGRAPHY A JOB?

Sometimes.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD PHOTOGRAPH:

Something you want to look at more than 10 seconds.

HOW DO YOU ENGAGE WITH YOUR SUBJECTS?

I just talk to them.

WHAT DO YOU HATE ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY:

The price of film.

BEST PLACE TO TRAVEL:

Ask me again in 10 years? There are lots of places I still need to visit.

WHAT PUSHES YOU OUTSIDE OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE?

Trying new stuff pushes me. I go in front of the lens and be the subject, do wedding photography, make a portrait of the head Laskar Bali, shoot digital, work on long projects.

FAVORITE CAMERA:

WHY DO YOU TAKE PHOTOS:

The one you have with you.

Because I can freeze time and capture the feeling at that moment on a relatively permanent basis. Plus it's a way to express myself.

FAVORITE LENS:

35mm f/2.0 Carl Zeiss.

LOGAL HILL 40, Los Angeles, USA.

CURRENTLY LIVE:

WHAT IS INDONESIA TO YOU:

Los Angeles is where all my stuff lives, but I haven't been home in ages. Been in London working for the last 6 months. And the past few months in Bali.

I have pretty vivid nightmares now. Dead dogs and giant centipedes.

DESCRIBE YOUR APPROACH TO PHOTOGRAPHY:

I like swimming laps. The place I'm staying at in Bali, the pool is so small it’s impossible to do a lap so I tied a rope to one leg and the other end to a stick in the garden. Now I swim forever and go nowhere. It’s actually depressing as fuck. But probably amazing to watch.

I climb mountains. I’m part of this all Mexican climbing crew called Brown Sabbath in LA. I’m the only gringo member. We climb all over California. These guys are fearless. It sucks cause sometimes I get scared.

INTERESTS OUTSIDE OF PHOTOGRAPHY:

I never leave the house without a 35mm camera. I’d rather forget my phone at home than a camera. I usually get on my bicycle and just go. I feel like I see way more from a bike.

WHO'S WORK INSPIRES YOU:

I honestly should pay more attention to what’s out there.

I'd have to say Lemmy from Motorhead. His work still inspires me.

IS PHOTOGRAPHY A JOB? WHAT MAKES A GOOD PHOTOGRAPH?

Damn, that’s a hard one. I'm gonna just say my favorite meal is spaghetti and meatballs, garlic bread, nice lil salad and a top notch salami and cheese plate.

It doesn't feel like it is yet. I bet as soon as I have kids that shit will change though. I’ll probably be shooting weddings and high school yearbooks non-stop. Christ, that sounds like hell on a stick.

WHAT DO YOU HATE ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY:

HOW DO YOU ENGAGE WITH YOUR SUBJECTS?

That HDR feature in digital photography people love to use. Makes a photo look like the movie Avatar on a combo of acid and mushrooms. The colors are beyond what the human eye is allowed to handle. Like watching all the Transformers films back to back.

I wish I could sometimes throw dog biscuits at ’em or sardines for a photo. Most times I have to charm a complete maniac into a portrait with smiles and jokes. Sometimes it goes smooth. Other times there’s tons of static.

Either way makes for a good photo.

BEST PLACE TO TRAVEL:

WHAT PUSHES YOU OUTSIDE OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE?

I love Italy. That place rules. Those guys have perfected eating, chilling and road rage.

I actually need to get back to the comfortable zone. I feel for years I’ve been dodging all kinds of unusual situations. Sometimes after I’ve taken a photo I’ll compose for a second and be, like, oh shit I should get the hell out of here. Maybe I’ll start shooting puppies for toilet paper commercials. That seems cuddly and safe.

FAVORITE CAMERA:

I use a Leica m6 and a contax g2. Cameras are like old work trucks – they’re all awesome ‘til there’s a breakdown and you still have a ton of lawns to mow.

WHY DO YOU TAKE PHOTOS: FAVORITE LENS:

28mm to 35mm. I like getting in there.

It beats washing dishes or digging graves. Which I’ve done before and both are not my cup of tea. I just love everything about taking someone’s photo.

FILM OR DIGI:

Film 100%. I love the grain, the creamy colors, the mess ups, the weirdo light leaks. I love it all. I love it so much I don't even care how much loot I spend on it . There’s definitely been years where I’ve spent rent money on film developing and dodged my landlady for weeks.

I wrote these answers while in the severe clutches of Bali food poisoning. For 40 hours there was a jungle exorcism inside my stomach and my ass. It was the sickest I've ever been in my life. Around hour 30 I willed bandits to break into my home and sickle me to death.

N8DOGG 32, San Francisco, USA.

CURRENTLY LIVE:

On an island WHO INSPIRES YOU:

Cole Barash has been an interesting guy to watch. The transformation from shooting snowboarding to now shooting everything. There seems to be no boundaries in his photography. Shooting portraits of people playing basketball in New York and then landscapes in Iceland.

He doesn't have one look in his photography, and I really like that.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD PHOTOGRAPH:

Oh man. I mean, how do you even start. There are good photographs taken on iPhones. So I guess a good photograph is just something that pulls you in. Makes you think about that moment in time that was captured.

WHAT DO YOU HATE ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY:

Organizing and filing photos. Just keeping track of the many images you take in a lifetime. I get anxiety just thinking about keeping track of all the photos.

But film, I love being surprised everytime I shoot a roll of film. You never know what you are going to get back. Sometimes good. Sometimes bad. But you cannot get the same feeling with digital that you can with film.

For everything besides surf action, I prefer film. I just hate when people claim film. It's the hip thing to do. #35 #staybrokeshootfilm Just take photos and let the photos do the talking, people.

WHAT IS INDONESIA TO YOU:

It's home. I left my real home when I was 19 to travel. I instantly fell in love with Bali. With Indonesia. The culture. The food. The morning price. It was like a dream I was living. I survived on $500 USD a month. And that included partying 3-4 nights a week. I had a pet monkey.

A motorbike. 3 surfboards. I was pinching myself but I still wouldn't wake up. Would I have moved to Bali if it were like it is today? The soy lattes, organic food, smashed avo on toast, expensive motorcycles.... Probably not. But I still love it. It still has that magic tucked away in corners here and there.You just have to place yourself in the right environment.

BEST PLACE TO TRAVEL:

INTERESTS OUTSIDE OF PHOTOGRAPHY:

Somewhere new. There's no better feeling in the world than traveling someplace you haven't been.

My family. I have 2 children who were born in my bathtub here in Bali. My beautiful wife. My friends from around the globe who got hooked on the magic of Bali as well.

Surfing. Having fun. I love having fun.

FAVORITE CAMERA:

I like to switch up cameras quite a bit. I recently bought a Contax T3 and I think that's my new favorite. Before that it was a Canon Q17.

FAVORITE LENS:

IS PHOTOGRAPHY A JOB?

I wouldn't call it a job. Because I've had jobs when I was younger and they were no fun. It's a lifelong infatuation that sometimes puts food on the table for my family.

The 50mm 1.2 is hard to beat.

HOW DO YOU ENGAGE WITH YOUR SUBJECTS: FILM OR DIGI:

They both have their place. I could never shoot surf action with film and do the things I want to do. I can't believe I used to put a roll of film in my water housing with 36 shots and swim out to Pipeline. After you shot a couple waves you'd have to swim in and change rolls. Now you can swim for hours without the danger of swimming in and out.

I try not to be seen. Not engaging is the best way to engage.

WHAT PUSHES YOU?

A magazine.

WHY DO YOU TAKE PHOTOS:

To remember good times and special moments.

REA 132

CHRIS WARD | Photo: Natedogg

ARPAD LECLÈRE | Photo: Neves

OLIVER KURTZ | Photo: Scotty

DEDE SURYANA | Photo: Natedogg

JULIAN WILSON | Sequence: Natedogg

Photo: O'Neill

GORDO CESARANO | Photo: Frieden

TAJ BURROW | Photo: Natedogg

BRETT VADAR | Photo: Neves

Daniel Jones

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MARLON GERBER | Photo: Dobb

« MADE ADI PUTRA "BOL" | Photo: Hamish

MASON HO | Photo: Scotty

RADITYA RONDI | Photo: Curley

NICK CHONG | Sequence: Frieden

RIO WAIDA | Photo: Borba

MAX LEAVER | Photo: Borba

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MEGA SEMADHI | Photo: Hamish

Photo: Natedogg 158

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