The Straits Heritage - The China Town Issue by Benjamin Lee

Issue 03 | March 2013

The Chinatown Issue

The Straits Heritage “Pulsates with the memories of yesteryear. ” China Heritage Centre Pg 03

“The elaborately-decorated gopuram is a landmark in the area.” Places of Worship Pg 04

The Chinatown Issue

“Lined with quaint old restored shophouses.” Ann Siang Hill Pg 09

The Chinatown Issue

C ON T E N TS Overview

Route

Chinatown Heritage Centre

Places of Worship

Maxwell Food Centre

Ann Siang Hill

The Chinatown Issue

OV E RV I E W

More than meets the eye Chinatown, estate, a great part located in the Outram area in the Central Region. In his 1822 master “Town Plan”, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles had envisaged the Chinese people to form the bulk of the future town dwellers and allocated the whole area west of the Singapore River for a Chinese settlement known as “the Chinese Campong” (kampung in Malay means “village”). Singapore, the new land of opportunity attracted many immigrants from China, and expanded the original boundaries of this economically and culturally vibrant, self-contained town. It is today Singapore’s largest Historic District and an important and unique ethnic quarter we fondly call, ‘our Chinatown’. The original kampung with an area of one square mile (2.59 Km) was divided into zones, a sector for each Chinese community of the same provincial origin and dialect group. Much of Chinatown was carved out to represent the peoples’ lives back in China, like long narrow streets with ethnic picturesque shophouses.

Chinatown’s physical development began from 1843, with more land leases and grants for homes and trades. In John Turnbull Thomson’s 1846 map, this ethnic quarter, expanded to the area demarcated by Telok Ayer Street, Singapore River, New Bridge Road and Pagoda Street. Developed areas by this time included Upper Macao Street (today’s Upper Pickering Street), Upper Hokien Street, Upper Chin Chew Street, Upper Cross Street and Mosque Street. The great immigrant influx came in the early 20th Century, and limited housing, resulted in overcrowding. So sub-divided rooms, called cubicles created more living space, but were crammed, unhealthy and unsafe. Inevitably slums developed. The then government Housing Commission’s August 1918 survey reported much overcrowding and congestion in Chinatown. In the mid-1960s urban renewal schemes started, and residents were rehoused in resettlement estates. Major upgrading of shophouses, and new developments took place at end

1983, after the street hawkers were housed in Kreta Ayer Complex. Contrary to its name, Chinatown was not exclusively Chinese. There were small communities of Indians traders around the junction of South Bridge Road and Upper Cross Street, plus there still are Indian temples and Muslim mosques in the area, too. Today, Chinatown is Singapore’s largest Historic District, and the four sub-districts of Bukit Pasoh, Kreta Ayer, Telok Ayer and Tanjong Pagar were given conservation status in the late 1980s. Much of the town has changed, but fortunately, some remnants of its colourful past still stand and old traditions still endure. During festivals like the Lunar New Year, there’s celebration and special shopping. And as to be expected Chinatown is always dressed for the occasion, colourful, lit up and buzzing with activity, attracting not just Chinese but other locals, and tourists as well.

Did you know? The origins and logic of the Mandarin “Chinatown” (Tang Ren Jie) name is steeped in Chinese history. Chinese people are proud of their Tang Dynasty era, as in that period, China was the strongest country in the world. Hence their pride in being known as “Tang People”. When these people emigrated to foreign countries, to avoid discrimation, they preferred the convenience of living, working, trading, growing and being together. This resulted in the development of Tang Ren Jie in many cites around the world. Also, when Chinese people travel to foreign countries, their first curiousity is usually a visit to the local Chinatown.

The Chinatown Issue

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1) Chinatown Heritage Centre

2) Places of Worship

3) Maxwell Food Centre

4) Ang Siang Hill

The Chinatown Issue

C H I N ATOW N H E R I TAGE C E N T R E Memories of yesteryear The colourful past of Chinatown comes alive within the walls of these three beautifully-restored shophouses along Pagoda Street, comfortably nestled in the midst of Singapore’s bustling Chinatown district. Every nook and cranny in the Chinatown Heritage Centre pulsates with the memories of yesteryear, offering an experience like no other, as one is transported to Chinatown in the budding years of Singapore’s establishment as a seaport. From the desperate hopefulness of the many sinkheh (migrants) risking life and limb to embark on an arduous journey from various Chinese provinces to the promised land of Singapore, to the raw, seedy and underground practices of gambling dens and secret societies, be prepared to experience a sense of nostalgia and sentimentality as you step into the pages of Chinatown’s history. The Chinatown Heritage Centre is the only place in Singapore that has recreated the original interiors of its shophouse tenants in the 1950s, offering visitors an honest, revealing

glimpse into the lives of Chinatown’s early residents. Don’t want to pay to enter? Don’t you worry because at the entrance of the heritage centre is a small gift shop where you can purchase all kinds of items ranging from traditional medicine to old vintage toys that will make you reminisce the good ol days. At such reasonable prices, it will surely be hard to leave without bringing something back with you. The Chinatown Heritage Centre truly is a blast from the past. A definite must-go-to stop in Chinatown for both locals and tourists alike.

Did you know? If you’re looking for a unique place to stay in a fascinating and cultural location, the boutique hotels of Chinatown make a perfect choice. Some of the hotels you can consider include The Scarlet, The Club, Hotel 1929 and New Majestic Hotel. These hotels are specially themed and each offers a different stay experience that will reveal more about Chinatown’s history.

The Chinatown Issue

PL AC E S OF WOR SH I P Sri Mariamman Temple

Sri Mariamman Temple at 244 South Bridge Road is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore. Established by Indian pioneer Naraina Pillai (or Narayana Pillay) in 1827, the original wood-and-attap temple was replaced with a brick structure in 1843. The temple was gazetted as a national monument on 28 June 1973. Pillai, who had migrated to Singapore in 1819, suffered a great business loss in 1822 when a fire destroyed his shop at Cross Street. With the assistance of Sir Stamford Raffles, he revived his business, becoming one of the first traders to move into Commercial Square (now Raffles Place). In gratitude, he built the temple dedicated to the goddess Mariamman, curer of diseases, in 1827. It was marked out as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kling Templeâ&#x20AC;? in Lieutenant Philip Jacksonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first town plan of Singapore. In 1843, this wood-andattap temple was replaced with a brick structure built using Indian convict labour. It served as an early registry of marriages for Hindus. The temple has since undergone several rounds 04

of renovations and additions. Much of the present building is believed to date from 1862-63, constructed by Indian and Chinese craftsmen. Pagoda Street and Temple Street which parallel the temple gained their names from this ornate building. The elaborately-decorated gopuram, or entrance tower, is a landmark in the area. Its six tiers feature threedimensional sculptures of deities in relaxed poses and Sepoy soldiers wearing khaki uniforms inspired by the military tradition of the British Raj. The top of the boundary wall that surrounds the compound is lined with sculptures of cows (considered sacred by Hindus). The entrance is a pair of timber doors flanked by two square pillars. Within the grounds are several domes, called vimanam, which mark the location of shrines. The mandapam, or central hall, that leads up to the main shrine is an elongated passageway with painted ceilings. The main festival celebrated at the temple is the fire-walking festival Theemithi, which falls in October or

November annually. The temple was re-consecrated in April 2010 following the completion of a S$4-million restoration project. A team of about 20 artists were brought in from India for the project, which included repainting all the stone deities.

The Chinatown Issue

PL AC E S OF WOR SH I P Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum (BTRTM) is a religious and cultural institution in Singapore’s Chinatown. It houses a relic said to be a tooth from Buddha. The BTRTM is dedicated to the Maitreya Buddha and was built for the veneration of the relic, to promote Buddhist culture and education, and provide welfare services to the public. In January 2001, the Bandula Monastery was hoping to raise funds and appealed to Venerable Shi Fazhao, from the Golden Pagoda Temple in Singapore, for financial assistance. Ven. Shi agreed to help and in August, he visited the Bandula Monastery and formed a close relationship with the elderly Ven. Cakkapala. 06

In 2002, Ven. Cakkapala arrived in Singapore, where he visited the Golden Pagoda Temple and the Metta Welfare Association, founded by Ven. Shi. In July, two Buddha tooth relics including the Bandula one were part of a three-day, S$1 million exhibition to mark the Golden Pagoda Temple’s 10th anniversary. The exhibition drew more than 300,000 visitors, and news reports then said that one of the tooth relics would remain at the Golden Pagoda Temple. On August 4, Ven. Cakkapala formally handed the Buddha tooth relic to Ven. Shi, adding that a monastery should be built to house the relic and receive Buddhist pilgrims. Ven. Cakkapala passed away in December that year.

Ven. Shi secluded himself in a yearlong retreat and emerged with the inspiration for the name of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. He was also set on the temple’s architectural style being based on a mandala (Buddhist diagram representing the universe) as well as incorporating the Buddhist art of the Tang dynasty of China. Chinatown was chosen for the proposed temple’s location, with Ven. Shi saying that he hoped the BTRTM would add to the vibrancy and heritage of the area. The project was also supported by the Singapore Tourism Board (STB), which pointed out that the BTRTM would add to Chinatown’s appeal to visitors interested in religious attractions. The BTRTM was registered with the Registrar of Societies in February 2003 and as a charity in January 2004. In May 2004, another exhibition featuring the tooth relic was held, drawing over half a million visitors. Details of the planned temple were released in the media, including its estimated cost, structure and its various exhibits. On January 14, 2005, the BTRTM signed a 30-year land lease agreement with the STB for the 2,700-square metre site at South Bridge Road. A three-week exhibition to raise funds was then staged, and the BTRTM began seeking more donations and building sponsorship for the temple’s construction. Parts of the building including Buddha statues and images, roof tiles and bricks were put up for

sponsorship at varying amounts, and the BTRTM also collected donations of gold which was to be melted down to construct the stupa which would house the tooth relic. Ven. Shi was quoted in the media as saying: “Using gold to build a stupa is a demonstration of devotion, and devotees believe that by doing such a deed, they will receive the appropriate karmic returns.” In less than three months, about 83 kilograms of gold and S$10 million had been donated. By November 2006, another 1,700 kilograms of jewellery donated by 15,000 devotees had been sealed in vaults in the BTRTM’s foundation. In May 2007, the BTRTM told the media that S$43 million had been raised from more than 60,000 donors. To meet the final cost of S$75 million, including the land lease, building construction, interior decoration and cost of the temple’s Buddhist images and artifacts, the BTRTM took out a S$22.8 million loan. The BTRTM was soft-launched in May 2007, to coincide with Vesak Day celebrations. A year later, the temple was fully completed and a consecration ceremony was held on May 17, 2008.

The Chinatown Issue

M A X W ELL FO OD C E N T R E Spoilt for choice

Did you know? Owner of Ah-Tai Hainanese Chicken Rice is Mr Wong Liang Tai, more commonly known as Ah Tai. He was actually the former chef of 20 years of the famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. He had differences with the owners’ daughter who took over the management of the business in 2010. After several incidents and heated arguments, Ah Tai was sacked in October 2011 (Both Ah Tai and the owners are relatives). Subsequently, he and a partner (who was a key helper in Tian Tian) set up a chicken rice stall just 3 stalls away from his former employer (Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice) at Maxwell Food Centre.

Simply experience an authentically Singaporean dining experience by having a meal at a food centre here. Located in the heart of Chinatown, Maxwell Road Hawker Centre has over 100 stalls, providing one of the biggest varieties of local food in Singapore. Even with the influx of vendors, the stalls’ offerings are very varied and you will easily spoilt for choice here. Maxwell Road Hawker Centre, originally called Maxwell Market and Maxwell Road Food Centre, located in Tanjong Pagar, along Maxwell Road, is a popular hawker centre within the Central Business District (CBD) area. It is known not only for its cheap dishes but also for unique Chinese meals seldom found in other hawker centres. Many of the original stall holders had served there for several generations. The Maxwll Road Hawker Centre began in the 1950s as a wet market for the Chinatown area. In the 1980s, the site was changed into a temporary hawker centre to house the hawkers from China Square along China Street. This structure remained for

more than a decade. It was designed such that stalls shared a communal washing area which was located in the major thoroughfare where patrons consumed their food at fixed tables. While they were eating, they could see dirty dishes piling up and hawkers washing their plates at the washing area; meanwhile clogged drains lined the nearby stalls. Despite being notorious for its unhygienic conditions, it remained a popular food centre as it was home to many popular traditional Chinese delicacies such as turtle soup and pig’s brain. One of its more popular stalls was the ham chim peng titbit, a doughnut stuffed with bean paste and deep fried. Queues would form early as the titbit cost only 10 cents each even as late as the 1990s. However, buyers needed to fry their own fritters. Another unique stall was the Rickshaw Noodles stall, so named because the particular style of noodles was popular with early rickshaw pullers. The Hinghwa cuisine has a soup base made of ikan bilis or “local anchovies” and garlic. Other must-try items here include Tian Tian

Chicken Rice, the traditional congee with pork and century egg from Zhen Zhen Porridge stall and the popular char kway teow from the Marina South Delicious Food stall. It was only in March 2000 that renovations began on the centre. Early plans almost had the new URA Centre take its place, but calls to preserve the hawker centre prevailed. It was reopened in May 2001, after much delay and at a cost of $3.2 million.

The Chinatown Issue

ANN SIANG HILL

Away from the hustle and bustle Ann Siang Road, in Chinatown, begins from a road known as Ann Siang Hill and ends near the Ann Siang Building and the historical site of Anglo-Chinese School. Named after Chia Ann Siang (1832 - 1892) who was a businessman, both the roads are situated atop a hill known as Ann Siang Hill and lie within the Central Business District. Ann Siang Hill was originally known as Scott’s Hill and was owned by Charles Scott who cultivated a nutmeg and cloves estate on it. He sold it to John Gemmil who re-christened the place as Gemmil’s Hill. The hill’s name was changed again when it came to be owned by Chia Ann Siang, and the hill was renamed as Ann Siang Hill. A Cantonese burial ground, one of the oldest Chinese burial grounds in Singapore, used to be located at the foot of this hill where it met Mount Erskine and was in use until 1867. This graveyard was exhumed in 1907 and a portion of it was developed as a part of the Telok Ayer reclamation project. In the 1890s, a Malay college and high school was moved to this

place from Telok Blangah to provide education. Apparently Ann Siang Hill and Ann Siang Road, being situated atop a hill, did not probably share the camaraderie of the 19th century Chinatown with its hustle and bustle and was a rather quiet and predominantly residential, place. The roads, presently, are under the Chinatown conservation area. Both Ann Siang Road and Ann Siang Hill are today still lined with quaint old restored shophouses and richly decorated terrace houses. Most of these buildings were constructed between 1903 and 1941 and are today home to offices and enterprises. The layout of the streets are informal. Eating places, commercial units, trendy bars, restaurants and eating places on the streets have made the roads popular upmarket places. Efforts are being done by the Singapore Tourism Board to boost tourism and bring business to leisure pursuits such as the bars and eating places located here. The Damenlou Hotel, a small hotel opened in the 1994, is located at the junction of Ann

Siang Road and Ann Siang Hill. Ann Siang Hill Park in the vicinity of the road, constructed in early 1980s, was renovated in 2003. The first AngloChinese School in Singapore is located in the vicinity of Ann Siang Road at number 70, Amoy Street. Started by Methodist missionaries on 1 March, 1886, it is now called ACS House and has been gazetted as a historic site since the late 1990s. Another historic site, the original building of the Pondok Peranakan Gelam Club or Pondok Gelam, is located at Club Street near Ann Siang Hill. Home to a Bawean-Malay community from 1932 to 2000, this last pondok building in Singapore was declared a historic site in 2000.

Did you know? Its variant names include Chuilan teng (Hokkien), Sui-lan theng (Cantonese), meaning “Chui-lan pavilion”. A club or meeting place named Chui-lan used to be situated on this hill.