Oko! Magazine Edition 5

MAGAZINE

N°5

Gathering

September/October 2019

From The Editor Autumn has us in its grasp. As we approach and pass through the September equinox, the season masks the death of summer with a spectacular display of beauty all over the Czech Republic.

Prague, with its shades of gold, copper, and crimson, seems almost purpose-built for this time of year. Coats and chunky sweaters slowly re-emerge as locals gather to enjoy the season’s harvest at festivals dotted across the capital. Gym memberships are torn up and beach-body diets ditched as the cooler, darker evenings lend themselves to cosy Netflix nights and comfort food.

Outside of the cities, locals head out into the forests, now decorated with a kaleidoscope of flaming colours, to collect mushrooms and pick fruits and berries ripened by the summer sun. It truly is the season of gathering!

The fifth edition has a great selection of autumnal articles. Our science and nature section takes us through some of the nation’s best hiking trails, and with the help of our friends at the Slovak Wildlife Society, we also cover the story of the Tatra bears ahead of their winter hibernation. Further, we introduce you to some of the best wines to enjoy this season and take a plunge into the boozy world of burčák.

Mexico was the country of choice for this edition’s community section, and we’re excited to share pieces on the Día de los Muertos and Mexican Independence Day. We’re also thrilled to be covering the inspiring story of Rubén Contreras, founder of Moctezuma Foods, and sharing an interview with the folks at Las Adelitas ahead of their tenth anniversary celebrations.

In this installment of “In the Spotlight,” we explore the many neighbourhoods of the capital’s largest district, Prague 6, while our technology section explains the pros and cons of smart homes. This edition’s art segment includes a spellbinding piece on analytical artist Klára Sedlo and guides us through the feathery fashion trends on this season’s catwalks.

If that isn’t enough, we’ve also got articles on Czech cosmonaut Vladimír Remek to mark the 50th anniversary of the Moon landing; Vaclav I, Duke of Bohemia, to celebrate the national holiday in September; and much more!

Until next time, Leigh Woods

Contents 4 Community

Viva México!

Día de los Muertos Las Adelitas

12 History

Good King Wenceslas Prague 1989

17 Arts & Design

Ad Astra Per Aspera Klára Sedlo Autumn Fashion Blqees Zuhair, Photo Reportage

28 Music

It’s Grime Time!

32 Food & Drink Taro Restaurant Chef Khanh Ta Chef’s Recipe Autumn Wines Burčák

42 In the Spotlight Prague 6, Dejvice

48 Technology Smart Homes

52 Science & Nature Czech Silesia Hiking Trails Czech In Space

64 Business

Rubén Contreras Manifesto and reSITE

72 Sport

Skateboarding

74 Entertainment Booksmart The Mad Barber

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Viva Mexico!

The Story Behind Two Centuries of Independence

By Raymond Johnston

Mexico celebrates Independence Day, its most important holiday, beginning on the night of 15 September and then all day on 16 September, in commemoration of the start of the Independence War in 1810.

Many people will be quite surprised that the big national holiday in Mexico isn’t 5 May, known as Cinco de Mayo. That celebration began as a beverage marketing campaign in the United States. In fact, the day doesn’t even qualify as an official day off in Mexico.

“This year we are going to celebrate the 209th anniversary of the independence of Mexico. It happened at night when Father Hidalgo held up a plaque with the image of the Virgin of Guadeloupe and called on the crowd to start the movement of independence,” said R. Leonora Rueda, Mexican Ambassador to the Czech Republic.

“Cinco de Mayo is the anniversary of a battle we won against the marvellous armed forces of France. But it was one battle in the middle of a war.

We lost the war,” Rueda said.

Roman Catholic priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, who had long been advocating policies to help the poor improve their lives, took advantage of the chaos in Spain during the Napoleonic Wars to encourage the local people to rise up. His actions and words in the Cry of the Dolores are considered the start of the Mexican War of Independence.

“By 1810, Mexico had reached an economic, cultural, and political level where it was able to take care of its own affairs as a country, without having to send its wealth in taxes to Spain,” Rueda added.

The war lasted a little over 11 years, ending with the Treaty of Córdoba.

However, Spain made several attempts to win Mexico back, and didn’t formally recognise Mexico’s sovereignty until 1836. The current constitution dates to 1917.

“In all embassies and consulates abroad, we celebrate,” Rueda continued. In Prague, there will be a celebration at Kino Lucerna off Wenceslas Square on 16 September. “There will be a folklore dance with young dancers from the Mexican state of Sonora. And something that people will find interesting, we do a re-enactment of the shout for independence. Ambassadors and consuls everywhere will hold the flag and remember the leaders of the independence and that time with the words: ‘Viva, Mexico; Viva, Mexico; Viva, Mexico,’” she added.

On 17 September, there will be a piano concert at the Conservatory of Music by Duo Petrof, comprised of Anatoly Zatin and Vlada Vassilieva, originally from Russia but long based in Mexico. Petrof pianos are made in the Czech Republic, and the duo serves as ambassadors for the brand.

While some of the audience for both events will be invited guests, people with an interest in Mexican culture are also welcome to attend, as much as space allows.

Another big celebration of Mexican Independence takes part during the annual Americká Street block party (Zažít Americkou Jinak) on Saturday 14 September. The last part of Americká Street, from Jana Masaryka down to Máchova, will temporarily be renamed La Calle Mexicana.

Stands will feature food from many of the city’s Mexican restaurants, tequila and other beverages, plus clothing and related items.

There will be a stage at the very end of the street. “We’ll have a mariachi band and a Mexican tenor, a Mexican rock band, and we are bringing Mayan dancers from the Yucatan to show traditional dances and music, and we will close out with a Mayan ceremony,” said event co-organiser Fernando Larios.

There are many connections between Mexico and the Czech Republic.

Emperor Maximilian I, a member of the Habsburgs who reigned in Mexico from 1864 to 1867, brought a band of Czech musicians with him. The instruments and even some of the musical themes became an influence on mariachi music, Reuda said.

Czech-style beer was also introduced at this time, and there is still a popular brand of beer called Bohemia. “It is my favourite, by the way,” the ambassador said.

Mexico has enjoyed almost a century of positive relations with the Czech Republic and before that, Czechoslovakia. Diplomatic relations were established in 1922, four years after Czechoslovakia gained independence.

Mexican President Lázaro Cárdenas was friends with Czechoslovak President Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk, and there is a street in Mexico City named for the latter, as well as a school. Rueda, coincidentally, attended that school and has known the Czech national anthem for most of her life.

Mexico condemned the 1938 Munich Agreement that sacrificed Czechoslovakia in a failed effort for peace. When the village of Lidice was destroyed in 1942 by Nazis, a municipal district in Mexico City was renamed San Jerónimo Lídice.

The Mexican government also criticised the 1968 Warsaw Pact invasion of Czechoslovakia, and supported the events of the 1989 Velvet Revolution. Czechoslovak President Václav Havel visited Mexico in 1990, and Mexican President Carlos Salinas de Gortari returned the gesture in 1991.

Rueda said relations between the countries are getting stronger, with large Mexican investments in the Czech Republic and Czech investments in Mexico. The automotive sector is strong in both countries, and Mexico is promoting the expansion of other technological sectors. Mutual tourism is also growing.

Currently, there are some 500-600 Mexican citizens registered as living permanently in the Czech Republic, but this does not include students at universities in Prague, Brno, and other cities, or people on temporary assignments.

Image extracted from the book by Vicente Riva Palacio, Julio Zárate (1880) “México a través de los siglos” Tomo III: “La guerra de independencia” (1808 - 1821)

During the day there will be salsa lessons and some activities for kids, and likely there will be piñatas to break. Coloured flags will be draped above the street, and balloons will light up at night.

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Día de los Muertos

A Celebration of Life and Death

By Raymond Johnston

Mexico and the Czech Republic, celebrate 2 November as a day to remember close loved ones who have passed away.

While Czechs are familiar with cleaning graves and lighting candles for Dušičky, in Mexico the traditions for Día de los Muertos, or the Day of the Dead, are more complex and festive.

The centuries-old holiday is celebrated across Mexico, but particular aspects change from region to region. Its popularity has been growing since the late 20th century, when it became a national holiday. Since 2008, it has been on UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

“Worldwide, we celebrate Día de los Muertos. It is a mix of indigenous tradition and Spanish tradition, the old society, and the new society. We have the idea that on 1 November, the souls of children and young people who passed away, and on 2 November the souls of adults, both come to this world to be with us,” said R. Leonora Rueda, Mexican ambassador to the Czech Republic.

In Prague, there will be a celebration in the courtyard of the Náprstek Museum of Asian, African, and American Cultures at Betlémské náměstí 1, on the weekend of 2 November, with ofrendas and other aspects of the holiday.

A key concept for the Day of the Dead is that death is part of the cycle of life and that the spirits of loved ones are nothing to be afraid of. It’s a sharp contrast to the North American concept of Halloween, with its scary ghosts, witches, and vampires, or more commonly these days, random superheroes.

The Mexican holiday is linked to the Aztec goddess Mictēcacihuātl.

She rules over the afterlife and cares for the bones of the dead. Those long-ago celebrations occurred around August, lasting an entire month.

Due to the influence of Roman Catholicism, the festivities eventually moved to coincide with the thematically similar All Saints’ Day (1 November) and All Souls’ Day (2 November). Mictēcacihuātl, though, is still considered by some to be the mistress of ceremonies for Day of the Dead celebrations.

The name given to 1 November is either Día de los Inocentes or Día de los Angelitos, meaning Day of the Innocents or Day of the Little Angels.

Then, 2 November is Día de los Muertos. In some places, children already make altars on 31 October, All Hallows’ Eve or Halloween, stretching the celebration to three days.

Going to church to pray for the souls or going to the cemetery to visit graves is an important part of the celebration. Singing with local mariachi bands is also common in many places.

The souls of loved ones are welcomed back with a homemade altar with family photographs. “We make what we call ofrendas. An ofrenda is a place where we put food, toys, fruit, and things that they used to like when they were alive. If it was a person from our family or friends who smoked, we put cigarettes, and beer or tequila. Candles illuminate the way so they can come here and go back,” Rueda said.

There are also candies to sweeten the journey, and water, in case the souls are thirsty from their trip. Marigold flowers are also common. The flower’s strong scent is supposed to attract the spirits of the departed. The bright orange-yellow color is reminiscent of the sun, which in the ancient Aztec tradition guides spirits through the afterlife. Marigolds in Mexico also happen to bloom right in time for the celebration.

“Something very representative that we do are sugar skulls. On their forehead, we put the name of the person that we are dedicating that skull to.

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We are calling them with the name. We get together and we pray for them, and have a moment of remembering them,” said Rueda.

Moulded sugar figures are called alfeñiques, but the skulls specifically are calaveras. The skulls and other figures are hand-decorated with coloured icing and even sometimes plastic jewels, cotton, sequins, and feathers.

The figures are hollow, but in some regions of Mexico, they can have a honey centre.

Aside from skulls, other popular thematic designs are coffins, hearses, crosses, and angels. More mundane figures are deer, sheep, rabbits, lions, cows, ducks, horses, and even frogs.

Making the candies is a family tradition, and the moulds, recipes, and techniques are passed down from one generation to another. Because of the special moulds, authentic sugar candies are rare outside of Mexico.

Face painting, to make people resemble the look of the candy skulls, has become a popular aspect of the holiday worldwide, linking it more closely to the concept of dressing up for Halloween.

There are other special foods connected to the holiday. Tamales are a common offering, though these can be found year-round. A more specific dish is pan de muerto, or bread of the dead. It is a sweet bun with a crossbones or skull design on top, and can be flavoured with anise or orange zest. Candied pumpkin and other sweets are also popular.

There is a rather funny reason that the Day of the Dead has become popular beyond Mexico in recent years. “It has become very international, and mostly we owe that to the James Bond movie Spectre,” Rueda said.

The 2015 film featured a huge Day of the Dead parade in Mexico City.

At the time, the city didn’t actually have an organised parade, but due to popular demand following the success of the film, city officials began one in the city’s historical centre the next year, and it drew a quarter-million spectators.

“We do parades, but not in that Hollywood way. Our parades were a little bit smaller. It started out being a very local celebration. Local in each state. All of us celebrate, that is a fact but in different ways. In one town they may do [a parade]. In others they make a competition of ofrendas,” she said. “Now it is getting that recognition worldwide, and the parades are made now … because of that movie.”.

She also commented on the recent animated film Coco, which dealt with the Day of the Dead in some detail. “Even though Coco is an American production, I think it is lovely. It gets the feeling”.

But she does not want the holiday to turn into just another excuse to have a party. “My way of thinking is we don’t have to commercialise it. The moment you commercialise things, they lose a little bit of their essence.

So I would be very careful to keep the real essence of the celebration, more than to make a party of it,” she said.

For Mexican expats across the world, 2 November has become a day to get together and celebrate their families, cuisine, and cultural heritage.

Mexican restaurants often become de facto cultural centers for the occasion. In Prague, the Las Adelitas chain has been celebrating Día de los Muertos for several years with ofrendas at the restaurants, face painting, and mariachi music.

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photo by Las Adelitas

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Las Adelitas

Celebrating 10 Years in Prague

By Ethan Paki

This year Las Adelitas, the home of Mexican cuisine in Prague, will celebrate their tenth anniversary, having opened their first restaurant on the cosmopolitan Americká Street in October 2009. Since then, they have continued to expand across the city, establishing a further three restaurants, with their latest venture located on Petrská, in the bustling area near Florenc.

Speaking with two of the partners from Las Adelitas, David Zamorano and Fernando Larios, one thing is quite clear from the beginning, and that is their passion – not just for the restaurant, but for Mexican cuisine, culture, and history. Even the name of the eateries originates from the brave women of the Mexican Revolution, who were affectionately known as “Adelitas”.

The brainchild of Rodrigo Flores and Patricio Ibargüengoitia, Las Adelitas came from humble beginnings. The Las Adelitas that is known and loved today was born from Las Adelitas Delivery – just two guys, cooking and delivering good, honest Mexican food from their own kitchen to family, friends, and neighbours in the city of Prague.

While many imitations had come before, it was the simple nature and authenticity of Las Adelitas’s home-cooked food that allowed their delivery service to grow over the following 18 months.

In 2009, thanks to the ever-growing demand for their services, Rodrigo and Patricio teamed up with Fernando and David to open the first-ever Las Adelitas restaurant on Americká street.

An achievement that came from pouring their own blood, sweat, and tears; Las Adelitas on Americká was practically built from scratch, with the four partners themselves taking care of the painting, interior design, aesthetics, and the construction of the bar itself. Even the dining tables were handmade, with the same design replicated and implemented in all of the Las Adelitas restaurants dotted around Prague today.

Since Las Adelitas first opened its doors to the public in 2009, it has gone on to open a further three locations across the capital, with restaurants on Lucemburská in Vinohrady, on Malé náměstí in the city centre, and the latest location at Florenc, with the restaurant opening less than 12 months ago, tucked away on Petrská Street.

The group is also responsible for La Taquería at Náměstí Míru, which serves authentic, classic Mexican tacos.

The Petrská location is where we sat down with Fernando and David to talk about the life and history of the restaurant and how in just ten short years, Las Adelitas has gone from serving close friends and family to becoming the beating heart of the Mexican community in Prague.

Las Adelitas’s latest opening on Petrská is inviting. The cobblestone streets outside flow through to the inside, where you are greeted by endless shelves of tequila and other curious cocktails behind the bar. The dining area is intimate with a rustic ambiance, in keeping with the strong sense of family that has laid the foundation for the restaurant’s success.

The outdoor garden area is tucked away at the back of the premises. Secluded and discreet, it’s perfect for afternoon cocktails with friends and family. The surroundings also provide sanctuary from the scorching heat that envelops Prague.

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The prices are very modest when considering the level of food quality and service. An evening for two, including drinks and two courses, will amount to around 1,000 Kč. Items on the menu recommended by the owners themselves include the Tacos De Cochinita with braised pulled pork leg, the Sopa Azteca, and Mango Chilli Tequila on the rocks.

evening of cocktails and music before a procession was led through the streets of Prague in full outfit, marching to the sounds of the mariachi.

Las Adelitas is proud of their Hispanic heritage and waves the Mexican flag proudly through all of their ventures, including this year’s tenth-anniversary celebration.

All branches of the restaurant also offer daily lunch menus, so for those on a budget, be sure to head to your local Las Adelitas for your daily midday meal. Entrées start from 135Kč.

Speaking to Fernando and David, it becomes clear that Las Adelitas was built on the back of passion for what they do, determination, and the simple will to succeed. The staff throughout the organisation strive for quality, setting industry standards in both food and service. David and Fernando were quick to speak of their admiration for their staff across all branches of the restaurant, and stated that they have plans to give back to their loyal team in the near future as thanks for the hard work and dedication that has led to the organisation’s success.

The people behind Las Adelitas go beyond the confines of their walls and are responsible for various major events showcasing native Mexican culture and experiences to the local community.

Locals will get the chance to experience all things Mexican on 14 September at the annual La Calle Mexicana on Americká, with local food stalls, antiquities, music, and even stand-up comedians scheduled to be part of the street festival this year.

At the end of 2019 we can also expect to see Las Adelitas celebrate Día de los Muertos, otherwise known as the Day of the Dead. In 2018, this deathly celebration saw festivities kick off at the local Las Adelitas for an

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When asked about the future, Fernando and David seemed coy and emphasised that their immediate focus is on ensuring that all the existing locations in Prague continue to provide quality Mexican food, which to date has been the key to their success.

Whatever the future holds for Las Adelitas, it’s sure to be fuelled by homemade tacos and top-shelf tequila!

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Photos by Lada Nayevo

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Good King Wenceslas More Than Just a Christmas Carol

By Julie Orlova

Wenceslas, Václav, the “good king” from the Christmas carol. You probably know at least one of the three most well-known facts about him: he was a saint; his statue guards the square named after him in Prague; and he is one of the patron saints of the Czech lands. Was I right? He is one of the most celebrated figures in Czech history, but even for historians, his life is somewhat of a mystery.

Václav is a great example of a purposefully created myth, a pillar on which the national identity of Czechs has been built. In the run-up to 28 September, when Czechs celebrate the birth of the Czech nation and the death of St. Václav, we wanted to shed a little light on how a Christian “monarch” became the symbol and patron saint of arguably the most atheist state in Europe.

Firstly, let’s get something straight – Václav was never a king. The Czech lands, more accurately the Duchy of Bohemia, would only be upgraded to the Kingdom of Bohemia in 1198. Our story begins around three hundred years earlier, at the end of the ninth century. At that time, Bohemia was a small pagan domain which occupied approximately the area of the current Central Bohemia.

Duke Bořivoj and Duchess Ludmila of the Přemyslid dynasty (Václav’s grandparents) were the first in the land to adopt Christianity in the hopes of increasing their influence and forging strong and powerful alliances. The process had begun of converting the future Czech Republic to the Christian faith, in which little Wenceslas was baptised. He and his grandmother had a very close relationship until, in keeping with the typically gruesome stories from the Middle Ages, she was strangled on the order of her own daughter-in-law, Drahomíra.

There are more legends about St. Václav than known facts. We know for certain that he became the Duke of Bohemia in AD 921.

Fourteen years later, he was assassinated in front of a church door in (Stará) Boleslav on the orders of his brother, Boleslav I the Cruel. What sparked the siblings’ feud will forever remain a mystery, but perhaps the most plausible of the many theories is their disagreement about the direction of foreign policy. Václav, raised by his pious grandmother, wanted to establish diplomatic relations with neighbouring German states in a peaceful manner, which his brother saw as a sign of weakness.

However, the murderous brother felt great guilt and thereafter made a significant contribution to the canonisation of Václav. The figure of the first saint of Bohemia became fertile soil for legends and alleged miracles and virtues. He was said to have cultivated wine and grain for the Holy Communion; to have cared for the poor, the sick, slaves, and prisoners; to have built churches; and to have destroyed gallows and pagan shrines. He was supposedly an ascetic virgin who prayed day and night clothed in a rough sackcloth shirt, with a desire to give up his throne to his brother so that he could become a monk. His real personality could obviously never have met that standard. For starters, he wasn’t a virgin and had at least one son, Zbraslav, with a concubine. Further, Václav founded only one church – the Rotunda of St. Vitus, which through the centuries was expanded and rebuilt into the current St. Vitus Cathedral in the Prague Castle complex.

The truth is that St. Václav was very convenient for the Holy Roman Empire, and he ticked all the boxes of a regal figure propagating Christianity, peace, and diplomacy. Five centuries later, the most ambitious of Czech kings supported the cult of St. Václav. Charles IV paid homage to him as an example of human and political piety and proclaimed Prague Castle the castle of St. Václav. The name did not stick, but we cannot say the same about the Czech crown. It is believed to have belonged to St. Václav as the true ruler and protector of the Czech lands, and that he lent it to the rulers who followed him as if they were his deputies. This secured him the title of patron of the Czech lands, and led to his figure being used by many future political movements, often simultaneously by rival parties.

For instance, during the period of the Hussite Wars, his followers became part of the conflict between the confessional parties, the Hussites and Catholics. Both sides used St. Václav in their arguments and in their prayers for help against the other side. During the National Revival (1775-1848), two opposing groups again used St. Václav’s image. Practising Catholics saw him as their saint and celestial protector, whom they celebrated at church festivities, folk festivals, and pilgrimages. The patriots used St. Václav as a national symbol without religious context, a knight who protects the Czech people. This interpretation gave rise to the equestrian statue of St. Václav by the sculptor Myslbek on Wenceslas Square. This place would remain the heart of Prague, where crucial decisions are made and heartfelt speeches delivered, such as the declaration of the independent Czech state on 28 October 1918, or the self-immolation of Jan Palach and Jan Zajíc in protest against Soviet occupation.

The cult of St. Václav was also used by extremist political movements, like Catholic fascists who wanted to overthrow Masaryk and return the monarchy to the Republic. The Nazi government ruling over the newly established Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia used the original story of the saint’s murder and St. Václav in their propaganda as evidence of the serfdom of the Czech nation. At the same time, the Czechs turned to their patron as a symbol of peaceful diplomacy and to undermine the new regime.

The figure of St. Václav still pops up occasionally in political debates and art projects, and on 28 September, when Czechs officially commemorate their patron and protector. The agent provocateur of sculpture, David Černý, placed his statue of Václav sitting on the belly of his dead horse at the opposite end of Wenceslas square, and later in Lucerna, until such time as the constitutional monarchy is restored in the lands of the Czech Crown. Despite the ongoing discussion of whether St. Václav was wise or cowardly, saintly or just human, if myths are good or evil, there is no doubt that without him , and what history and the collective mind have made of him, the Czech Republic would now be a very different place.

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HISTORY

Photo by Athénaïs N’goala

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Prague 1989 - The Road to Freedom Exhibition from 25 September - 29 December 2019 At the Muzeum of the City of Prague at Florenc

By Mgr. Renáta Kalašová The outdoor panel exhibition entitled Prague 1989 – the Road to Freedom presents the fateful moments of modern history that took place in the capital and signalled the approaching end of the Communist regime in Czechoslovakia.

On the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the Museum of the City of Prague has prepared a panel exhibition called Prague 1989 – the Road to Freedom in front of the main museum building at Florenc. The exhibition will commemorate the major events of this transformational period, which are inherently connected not only to the capital city of Prague, but to most of the inhabitants of then-Czechoslovakia.

Annus mirabilis – the year of miracles, as this groundbreaking period of European history is often called – was clearly heralded by the development of political events in the Soviet Union. Mikhail Gorbachev took up the post of General Secretary of the CPSU Central Committee in 1985.

This paved the way for the inevitable reforms that led, among other things, to the fall Communist regimes throughout the Eastern Bloc.

Despite the political setup in communist Czechoslovakia following the invasion of the Warsaw Pact troops in 1968, many were charmed by slogans about the necessity of rebuilding and democratising society.

However, there were no major changes. Opposition groups were persecuted; people were imprisoned for their convictions; there was practically no freedom of speech, religion or expression; mass media served as party information and promotional media; and the constitutional leadership role of the party permeated all spheres of political and social life.

The exhibition will chronologically present photographs and leaflets from the collections of the Museum of the City of Prague, Libri Prohibiti, and the Czech News Agency – a selection from the main events of 1989, from Palach’s Week in January to the election of the dissident and playwright

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Václav Havel as President of the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic.

Visitors will be able to learn about the work and activities of independent civic initiatives, as well as reading about petitions and other public protests organised on the occasion of important historical anniversaries that preceded the student demonstration on 17 November and the Velvet Revolution. A separate panel is dedicated to the exodus of citizens of the German Democratic Republic through the Prague embassy of the Federal Republic of Germany in September and October 1989.

Another event that significantly marked the atmosphere of these revolutionary days was the canonisation of Agnes of Bohemia. “Peace and prosperity will come when Agnes is declared holy.” The celebration of her canonisation was remarkably connected with the expected change in politics. Not only was the canonisation celebrated at that time, but there was also the hope of the return of freedom and democracy to our countries.

November in Prague Streets by Tomáš Dvořák and Renáta Kalašová is another part of the exhibition which will take place from 25 September 2019-26 April 2020 inside the main building of the City of Prague Museum at Florenc. It will display the events of November and December 1989 in Prague through posters, leaflets, photographs, and film footage. The installation will introduce visitors to the main events and people who actively participated in the dismantling of the totalitarian political system, which was dominated 30 years ago by the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia. It will also cover earlier decades.

For more information, you can visit the museum website at www.muzeumprahy.cz

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1. Demonstrators with portraits of Václav Havel to support his election as President, photo by Pavel Hroch, MMP

3. GDR citizens climb over the wall of the Embassy of the Federal Republic of Germany in Vlašská Street, September – October 1989, foto Květa Venušová, MMP

2. Letná Plain, November 25, 1989, photo by Jan Špiloch, print, published by Radost Agency. MMP

4. Manifestation on November 26, 1989 on Letna Plain, singing of the national anthem, photo by author unknown, MMP

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Photo by Archiweb

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ARTS & DESIGN

Ad Astra Per Aspera

Palác Lindt-Astra as a Mirror of Prague in the 20th Century

By David Lameš Artworks are always imbued with the cultural paratext of their time. They reflect the standards, social mores, and aspirations of specific peoples in a set time. Architecture, however, is more deeply impacted by changes in these social standards than any other art form, as unlike a painting, a table, or a song, it exists more resolutely, cannot be easily moved, and is too expensive to replace frivolously. As a result, architecture not only reflects the society of its time, but also is enhanced or defaced by the changes between then and now. Palác Lindt-Astra at the lower end of Wenceslas Square illustrates this point well, as this modern structure holds secrets of Prague’s and the Czech Republic’s turbulent history of the past century.

From the outset, Palác Lindt was revolutionary in the fledgling Czechoslovak Republic. Built between 1925 and 1927 by the architect Ludvík Kysela for the industrialist August Lindt, the building has the distinction of being the first fully functionalist structure in Prague, and possibly Czechoslovakia. The building was envisioned by Lindt as a commercial palace, in the spirit of Berlin’s Tilz and Wertheim or Galeries Lafayette and La Samaritaine in Paris – an important breakthrough for Prague, as it would be among the first department store typologies in existence in the Czechoslovak state. Previous commercial buildings here relied on passages, as Palác Lucerna shows, and functionally were really just covered streets. Palác Lindt did nod to this, employing a passage through the building, not as a primary commercial space, but as circulation: to connect Wenceslas Square with Jungmann Square, and allow easy direct access to the seven above ground and two belowground storeys of commercial goods and services. In an effort to maximise efficiency, the building not only served as Lindt’s flagship store, but also contained production spaces and restaurants. The top floor with its atelier windows was Lindt’s own apartment.

Lindt’s concept hinged on the new economic reality of the 1920s: the development of consumerism and the emerging middle class.

This new demographic of people who had lived through the famines and rationing of the 1910s to find themselves newly wealthy from booming stocks, redistributed aristocratic lands, and international exports wanted to enjoy themselves with food and consumer goods. Lindt, who made his fortune in artificial flowers and decorative feathers, based his growing business on this emerging class.

He realised he needed to give his clients an excuse to spend their time and money in his establishment.

Hence the functionalist design: by adopting the newest architectural expressions of Constructivism and Le Corbusier’s l’Esprit Nouveau, from the walls of glass on the façade to the precise open-grid layout of the interior floors, Lindt hoped to dazzle Prague with his firm’s apparent modernity. Interestingly, though, he also made a point of not shocking his more conservative base. Kysela was not the only architect of the building. The two restaurant spaces, the Café Astra on the first floor and the Wine Bar Cariocca in the basement, completely ignored the pure geometric lines of this new functionalist style. They were instead designed in a historicising combination of the Baroque derivative Neo-Rococo and the already dead Art Nouveau styles, by the German architect Paul Sydow.

Sydow, at this time, was designing other buildings in Prague in the German Expressionist style (such as Palác Dlouhá), which put him in opposition to the Czech Kysela, who would go on to design some of the most distinctive functionalist buildings in the city, including Palác u Stýblů and Palác Lindt’s neighbour, Palác Bat’a. In fact, it is relatively notable that Lindt prioritised Kysela, as architectural commissions in the First Republic were very often divided along ethnic lines, though his Jewish heritage and the existing anti-Semitism in the German minority may have been salient. This architectural collaboration shows Lindt’s desire to appeal to the full Czechoslovak market, rather than segregating himself to the German minority, which by this time made up less than 5% of Prague’s population.

But just as Czechoslovakia’s fortunes turned for the worse, so did those of Palác Lindt. The worldwide Great Depression from 1929 hit Czechoslovakia particularly hard. In this export-oriented industrial powerhouse, unemployment exploded and austerity was the mot-du-jour. Lindt lost his properties and business with the occupation of Czechoslovakia in early 1939, and the Second World War cut out luxuries like decorative feathers completely. In the period of the Nazi occupation, it was not allowed for any place to proudly display Jewish names. Therefore, Palác Lindt shed its name to become Palác Astra.

In the postwar period, the building remained nationalised by the nascent Communist regime. Just as it was the pioneer of the functionalist style, it was the pioneer of name censorship, as the Communist hostility to capitalist memories saw Palác u Stýblů become Palác Alfa, and Palác Bat’a become The House of Services, among others.

Palác Astra fell into further disrepair under the Communists. Pre-War modernism, reflected in the building’s expensive granite tiling and luxurious large-format windows, was a decadence even for the 1920s, let alone the utilitarian variant of Socialist Modernism, which preferred cheap prefabrication and utility over aesthetics. Renovations in the late 1960s ripped the façade apart, replacing the large, smooth panes of glass with cheap alternatives and steel windows with thick aluminum mullions, heavily damaging the unity of the composition. In the 1970s, Palác Astra became a corner building and lost part of its original footprint, as the construction of the A and B lines of the Prague metro uncovered large portions of Můstek to build the concourse.

The fall of Communism brought privatisation for Palác Astra. Kanzelberger inaugurated the first large Western-style bookstore here, renaming the building the House of Books from 1998 on. The Great Recession ended this life, but also gave new opportunities, as the building underwent a full renovation and restoration in 2011, returning the original articulation of the façade. Though certain elements, such as the central lightwell, were lost in favour of increased office space, it shows the building’s valuable position in Prague and the emerging society of today, as we move away from physical department stores to a need for a variety of flexible workspaces. Thankfully, Kysela’s functionalist vision was able to persevere through these changing forces to give us the hidden jewel that aspires to the stars.

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Klára Sedlo

A Tale of Lovecraftian Lacquer

By Jacklyn Janeksela

“Something was creeping and creeping and waiting to be seen and felt and heard.” – H.P. Lovecraft H.P. Lovecraft and Klára Sedlo – cut from the same cloth, or in this case, canvas. They stitch with the same needle, write with the same pen, dip their brush into the same ink. What resides in their craft is extraordinary, absurd, obscure, and as big as any new moon sky, pitch black; truly numinous and notorious.

Sedlo deliberately includes “a sense of something occult in my art, but that is where it starts and ends. The only thing I take from the occult is the atmosphere, which I transform into my own occult science. I have plenty of paintings depicting invocations of that demonic dog – these invocations are, of course, totally fictional, but based on old grimoires. So I would say I am like a writer that creates bizarre horror stories, that are fictional but convincing because they share the same atmosphere as the real occult that was studied by the author.” If Lovecraft could be a painting, he would be a Sedlo, no questions asked. And very little need for invocation, for he would instinctively be drawn to Sedlo’s brand of magic.

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If Chelsea Wolfe and Björk collaborated, unrolled, unravelled, and unveiled music on canvas, it would look like Klára Sedlo’s work. Just twisted and dark enough. Just sweet and sticky enough. “Candy and toys are symbolic in my paintings – they point out our time and our behaviour.

And that is why I like to put them in uncute relationships, attribute human emotions or weird hobbies to them (like cute plush toys reading Lovecraft books), or put them in mysterious situations. The result is that my paintings are cute and upsetting at the same time and the viewer, caught up in the cuteness, has to look as well at the other, “darker” line of the painting.

Here the cuteness does not cover, but leads into the true, deep inner world.”

It’s the juxtaposition of light and dark that hypnotises the viewer, not just in terms of contrast, but content, too. The darkness, however, wins in Sedlo’s world. Unlike most stories where the light wins, in Sedlo’s work

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darkness looms. It lurks like a creature in the corner, casting its shape upon the walls of an antechamber, foreboding and forbidden. She follows in the footsteps of Lovecraft who states, “The process of delving into the black abyss is to me the keenest form of fascination.” While Sedlo dwells with the darkness, she is well aware of how the light plays against its counterpart which “is definitely connected with my fascination for Baroque painting and the fact that that kind of light adds something deeply dramatic to the final artwork.” A colour theory advocate, Sedlo knows her way around a palette. She isn’t the least bit frightened to explore psychological realms with her viewers.

The darkness offers two meanings. “On the one hand, it is the symbolic expression of our deep inner thoughts or subconscious mind that we are maybe scared of. And on the other hand, it brings a mysterious atmosphere, which I really like. There are a lot of things you can see in the dark, it creates awesome space for the viewer´s imagination.”

Sedlo is a raconteur. Witness the conjuring of Bugsy the Evil, an inconspicuous French terrier who boldly takes magic into her own paws, paws that are fantastically painted by Sedlo’s ingenious hands. The story unfolds, as does any delicious piece of fiction. According to Sedlo, “The dog was a different story, more connected to my tendency to create legends. From the first time I saw this dog, I knew it would be a perfect demon in my paintings. So I created a whole series depicting a cult of worshipping this little dog (her name is Bugsy) or the dog levitating in rooms, walking into houses, etc. It made Bugsy quite famous in my circle of friends, followers, and collectors. They keep asking if I will bring her to openings and want to meet the little demon. So I keep creating the myth.”

Lovecraftian lovers swoon over Sedlo’s ability to blend fact and fiction into a warped, whimsical narrative. From “The Other Gods” Lovecraft beckons us to observe, “The moon is dark, and the gods dance in the night; there is terror in the sky, for upon the moon hath sunk an eclipse foretold in no books of men or of earth’s gods.” A keen observer of the world around her, Sedlo looks to the sky for inspiration. “During the day, I like to ‘save’ all the interesting visual impulses I see around me in my mind. It can be a piece of sky in combination with a dark green tree. I do not sketch these impulses, I just focus on them and save them in my head.”

(which could be a piece of sky, interior, etc.) creates feelings, so I think deeply about what I put together and how it will work when viewed, all associations, and how can I support its main impression.” The aim to rearrange life is ever-present in Sedlo’s pieces, a psychological thrill and insight into her mind’s eye.

When asked about what drives Sedlo to her art, she says, “It is inner need. I like to say painting is a life necessity for me, like eating or sleeping. I cannot go too long without it.” The artist eats and sleeps her art, she becomes spellbound by the very spells that bind her to the canvas. Painting has been her destiny, one that she has not shied away from. “I have painted for as long as I can remember ‒– as a child it was my favourite activity – and since that time I have not stopped. Once, when I around five, I made a lot of drawings and stuck them to walls and furniture all around my grandparents’ flat. Then I told them that was my exhibition.

They had to go around, look at the paintings, and pretend they were in a gallery. So this is probably the first memory of wanting to become a painter.”

Again, Lovecraft’s own words reflect back. “There are not many persons who know what wonders are opened to them in the stories and visions of their youth; for when as children we listen and dream, we think but halfformed thoughts, and when as men we try to remember, we are dulled and prosaic with the poison of life.” (Lovecraft, “Celephaïs”) Waxing poetic on today’s version of happiness, Sedlo’s conclusions surface in her paintings like the foam of a wave, rising and falling into a dark, dark ocean. “A nice glittering unicorn T-shirt does not make you happier. You can also see that products around us in the last ten years are getting cuter and shinier. I think the more glittering and useless things you create, the more intense dark you need to cover or emptiness you need to fill. It is a logical consequence and essence of our time.”

Imagine Sedlo on her studio floor, decked out in full supernatural, Dadaist regalia, with a pair of horns and a smudge of black lipstick. She hums whilst juxtaposing objects; the collision of cotton-candy-coloured marshmallows and black candle drippings. Might the shadows of Jungian philosophy be present here, too? Whatever the case may be, Sedlo’s dedication to self-expression speaks loudly. As she asserts, her art is a “kind of psycho-analysis of vision and of its impression on someone else.”

Her approach focuses on interpretation and collocation. “I know symbols

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I have seen the dark universe yawning Where the black planets roll without aim, Where they roll in their horror unheeded, Without knowledge, or lustre, or name.

H.P. Lovecraft, “Nemesis”

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HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR CITY? Whether you’ve lived in Prague for months or years, there’s always more to discover: neighbourhoods, museums, walks, cafés, places to take your kids...

Or perhaps you have friends in town and don’t have the time to play tour guide. Prague City Tourism to the rescue! Pick up our FREE, up-to-date, ad-free guides at our Visitor Centre, or order them online just for the cost of postage at w eshop.prague.eu.

Prague City Tourism Visitor Centre q Rytířská 12, Prague 1 – Old Town r open daily 9-19 w prague.eu

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Autumn Fashion 2019

By Elsa Zasche

Fashion trends for this year’s autumn season are becoming increasingly gender-neutral. In the last few years, there has been a notable change not only in society’s attitudes, but also in the imagery of fashion ads.

In 2015, the Cannes Lions Festival themed their Glass Lion Award to honour advertising that broke gender stereotypes. Comparable attempts can be seen in the fashion world, using “gender bending” as a concept for tackling stereotypes. With the aim of breaking away from traditional approaches in the industry, the creation of gender-neutral collections and the use of women to showcase garments typically worn by men are on the rise.

This leads us to autumn fashion trends, which can be summarised perfectly by the following quote: “Sometimes I feel like wearing a pretty dress and sometimes I steal my husband’s button-down to finish off my Annie Hall (menswear) look,” says personal stylist and founder of CBS Lifestylist, Catherine Bachelier Smith. She continues by saying that “2019 is sure to see most designers blurring the lines on what is men’s/women’s fashion, because it’s fun to act like a Gemini!”

The zodiac sign Gemini resembles a pair of twins, with the ability to look at anything from two different perspectives. This autumn’s shimmering textures and colour palette remind of this quality too. Many of the fabrics contain holographic paillettes, “high-shine” surfaces, and metallic foil optics, executed in jumpsuits, crepe dresses, or fancy anoraks. If you’re not a fan of glistening surfaces, you can fall back on English-tweed-inspired patterns or variegated flower prints. Different from the light,cute application in summer fashion, autumn’s roses are dark, shiny, and named “bad-” or “dark romance.”

Tailored-fit suits are to be continued throughout the whole 2019 season.

Brands like Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Alexander McQueen want to celebrate strong women and the feminine form through rounded shoulders, sculptural moulds, and gigantic dresses. It’s important to mention that this style is not called “menswear-inspired.”. Instead, pieces like the “Anti-Statement Statement Coat” are designed to dress heroines and badass women. But don’t worry guys, the fashion industry has prepared some oversized overcoats for you too.

Inspired by the culture of northern England, Alexander McQueen’s suits are created using beautiful jacquard silk covered by metallic rose emblems executed in complementary colours. Dior took another approach after drawing inspiration from their own 1955 styles. Their 2019 collection is the result of mixing women’s haute couture with the uniform of politicians and businessmen.

What else can be spotted on the catwalks this season? Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta, and Tom Ford provide the secret elixir to compensate for the influence of rainy, grey afternoons on our minds.

Feather fashion! Honestly, it’s not reinventing the wheel to use feathers on fabric, but it is new to use so many on one single piece of clothing. No wonder, since this year’s trends seem to be inspired by extremes, like “the biggest coats,” “the hottest shorts,” and “the busiest dresses.” Women can wear these colourful additions on trouser hems, on blazer sleeves, or, as I mentioned before, all over the outfit.

Is there a similar way for our fashionistas to escape the fact that this year’s warm summer nights will soon fade away? Designer Emily Bode came up with a beautiful idea inspired by gallerist Todd Alden’s childhood.

In her latest collection, she translated the nostalgic hobby of collecting something into pieces of clothing. Her handmade jackets printed with baseball cards and raincoats with embedded pennies and milk bottle caps are definitely an inspiration for your own DIY projects on a rainy September afternoon.

As always, at Oko! we try our best to decipher the ever-changing world of fashion, and like to remind you, our readers, that whatever style you choose, you should wear it with confidence and pride. I’m sure that’s what will suit you best!

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Photo Reportage Blqees Zuhair

Blqees is a visual artist from Libya, and is based in Prague. She is passionate about various types of visual art, with a keen interest in painting and photography. Due to her background in architecture, she works on exploring everyday things in a creative way. From capturing empty streets to residential blocks, and all the small details people pass by every day, Blqees uses her art as a way of finding alternative interpretations of our surroundings.

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It’s Grime Time!

The Czech Music Scene’s Diamond in the Rough

By Dominik Jezek

“Hey, that’s like Eminem, but Czech.” “Sounds like slam poetry, but with an electronic background.” “Nah, too slow for Eminem and less lyrical. And quite angry.”

These were the initial reactions of my colleagues upon hearing the intro track from “Godfather of Czech grime” Smack One’s new album, P's a Love.Although some music critics would object to our reactions, the aggressive hip hop subgenre stitches electronic beats, 808s kicks, heavy baselines, and snappy flow into a tapestry of dirty suburban life, relentless fights, and dreams of glory. Born in London garages at the turn of the millennium, grime found its way into the Czech Republic during this decade. If you watch the Czech Anděl (Angel) music awards, you might already have recognised it on stage in 2014.

Gutter origins As a true underground genre, grime started in sweaty clubs and on local pirate radio stations. Its rough and combative style, which delves into the struggles of street life, was of no interest to mainstream and commercial media. Similar to hip hop, from which it stems, local rivals use grime to engage in lyrical battles known as “clashes.”

Fast-forward several years and Smack One had teamed up with French and British MCs and won an Anděl award two years in a row. This upswing in popularity brought some international grime stars, such as Kano, Marger, and the Roll Deep to Czech stages and gave rise to a number of Czech grime MCs who broadened the local scene.

One of the main differences between hip hop and grime lies in the speed at which MCs have to spit their hooks and bars. The average 140 beats per minute (bpm) allows for little to no thinking time. You stand on the stage and either slam lyrics your audience already knows or go with absolute rhymes.

Smack One feels that some of the reasons for the initial adverse reactions to his first grime track were stiffness and an unwillingness to accept new things. That was more than ten years ago, and he would surely agree that there has been a large change in the local mindset since. The current underground hip hop and electronic music scenes in the Czech Republic are rich with young producers and artists crossing established borders and connecting fringe subgenres.

One of the founders of grime, UK producer and rapper Wiley, exemplifies this in his song Wot Do U Call It: Make it in the studio but not in the garage Here in London, there’s a sound called garage But this is my sound, it sure ain’t garage I heard they don't like me in garage

One of the rising stars of swift rhymes and electronic backgrounds is the duo Sekvoye – you might have seen them at this year's Žižkovská noc festival. They would definitely fit in the raw category of grime because they usually jam, work this freestyle into a demo, and then perform them at concerts where they shape up the final track. If you enjoy cynical social reflection and metaphors, give it a go.

Love it or hate it, the rawness of grime sets it apart from other music genres. Since it comes out of the “city gutter,” as the famous recording artist JME puts it, we wouldn’t exactly call it a fresh breeze – rather an intoxicating outburst of energy.

Hip hop or grime?

What grime has in common with hip hop is its painful depiction of everyday struggles, dark problems, and social defiance. The mainstream story also stays the same. A mere low-class boy who dreamed of fame, respect, and admiration finally breaks the mould and makes it into the big leagues as a big street gangster. His local rivals don’t miss the opportunity to point out how his once authentic style got watered down to appeal to the masses. Our hero makes an album about how he remains true to his hood and haters be haters. The hip hop universe comes full circle.

What makes grime unique is its experimental nature and quick evolution.

Whatever’s popular at the time – funky house, electro house, dubstep – grime takes it, makes it its own, and keeps it for a short time if it works.

Just like a child playing with toys, grime discovers and forgets different music genres so fast, it’s hard to keep up, let alone define this postmodern phenomenon.

If you fancy subtle, electro-dance-type music, the Prague-based Czech-Vietnamese singer and performer Viah might suit your taste. This Czeching music award winner combines pressing issues, such as social media toxicity and finding yourself, into a gripping performance.

One of the youngest and most talented creators who would fit the electro-rap category is BoLs. The high-school student could outshine many up-and-coming artists with his music experience and knowledge. His refreshing combination of neo-rap and restless, clever beats turn into slower ballad lines just like day into night.

Sick of the young experimenters? We’ve got you covered. The 47-yearold DJ and performer (and Charles University lecturer) David Doubek, better known as Ventolin, plays an enigmatic mix of Detroit techno, acid house, and disco while enhancing the mix with his intermittent vocals.

You can recognise him on stage by his 70s windbreaker and angular academic glasses. According to his fans, every one of his concerts is a thrilling adventure.

See you on the grime side

Smack my grime up Grime’s beginnings in the Czech Republic were slow and painful, mainly because of the language difference. English contains shorter, more monosyllabic words which suit the quick tempo of the beats. In his interview for Czech National Radio, Czech MC Smack One admits that the audience reaction to his first track was mostly negative and that if there hadn’t been any dedicated beatmakers, he would have given up on the whole thing.

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Rising stars

Now you might rightfully ask: “Hey, wasn’t this supposed to be an article just about grime?” Yes, but the ever-changing nature of this musical subgenre means that it could go in any direction a few months down the line. Thus, it’s better to have a broader overview of what’s going on.

Grime and similar genres are steamrolling ahead and we just got swallowed up. Dive in and let us know if you managed to escape.

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Photo by Vinicius Amano

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Photo by Leigh Woods

Taro Restaurant

Fine Asian Flavors in a Casual Atmosphere

By Benny Water

The Prague food scene has revealed itself to be increasingly diversified and innovative, and it was our pleasure to discover Taro, a charming little restaurant discreetly tucked away across from the Na Knížecí tram stop, on the corner of Nádražní and Vltavská in Prague 5. Located in a district usually more focused on the working lunch and dinner crowds, Taro offers cuisine with traditional Vietnamese roots, elevated through the visionary eye of Chef Khanh, with a wider view on central Asian cultures. It serves a lovely à la carte menu for the more casual diner and for the right occasion, an exquisite tasting experience with wine pairing.

Taro offers an unusual service by Western standards. Here there are no private tables, but instead a seating arrangement more familiar to Southeast Asia. Up to 20 diners can admire the work of Chef Khanh and his team while seated at large wooden tables surrounding the open kitchen.

The chefs prepare the most amazing dishes with flavours and combinations you wouldn’t usually associate with Vietnamese cuisine, and they do it right under your nose.

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If you manage to tear your eyes away from the magic happening in the kitchen, the restaurant boasts a wonderful surrounding atmosphere.

Adorning the walls are vibrant cherry blossoms, and the clean industrial decor is accentuated by decorative neon signs and metallic elements from kitchen to dining area.

Taro is not run by Chef Khanh alone. His brother, Giang Ta, also plays a crucial role in the restaurant’s success. Though the siblings were born in the Czech Republic, they still have ties to their Vietnamese roots. Feeling unfulfilled from years working in a more traditional restaurant, they both had a vision to elevate what Vietnamese food in Prague has to offer.

Khanh travelled to Vietnam in order to improve his culinary knowledge and came back with a new set of skills that he now applies in Taro’s kitchen.

Plenty can be said about the delights of dining at Taro, but the only way to really understand the magic of the experience is to try the place out for yourself. Chef Khanh prepares lunches and dinners every week from Tuesday to Saturday and customers are always served with a smile.

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Photo by Taro

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Chef Khanh Ta

An Interview with Taro’s Executive Chef

By Claire Dognini Your dishes are influenced by various Asian cooking styles. Would you say the heart of your cooking is Vietnamese, or how would you describe your food? And as a born Moravian, does that have an effect on your cooking methods?

Yes, of course. I was actually born in Jilemnice (Krkonoše mountains), where me and my brother spend part of our childhood with our nanny, “our Czech grandma,” so we used to have a Czech lunch and later on a Vietnamese dinner back home. These food memories together with the experiences from travelling through Vietnam and Thailand have influenced my way of cooking. I do like to create modern and visually remarkable dishes, but if you close your eyes and taste the dish, you should always “feel” Vietnam.

In the last few years there has been a huge surge of new Asian restaurants in Prague. What makes your cuisine and restaurant stand out from the others? And how do you ensure your cuisine stands out both in originality and taste?

I believe that being yourself is the best way to stand out from the others.

We don’t copy anything or anyone so every dish we create is a unique combination of experiences and tastes. Also we don’t want to hide anything, so we created an open kitchen space where you can talk with chefs and watch the preparation of every dish.

Every three months you create a new tasting menu, with original dishes prepared with new techniques. Where and how do you find the inspiration and imagination to create something that is completely unique?

Creating a new tasting menu represents a very hard and time-demanding process. The dish can’t be just tasty, but it should also be well balanced and each course has to have the right order. I like travelling and trying local food and restaurants. For example, one dish originated from a combination of the taste of Vietnamese street food and the textures I tried in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris and then mixing it with Czech ingredients.

As traditional cuisine changes under the influence of modern creative trends, where does the balance lie for you and how does that show in your cooking?

As long as the dish is tasty, it’s all good for me. The problem is when the visual is above the taste. So the line is when the food looks better than it actually tastes.

Taro’s interior is stylish and minimalist, with only 20 seats all placed around the kitchen. Why did you go for this approach?

We want to bring the overall dining experience for our guests and make it more personal. That’s why we opened up the kitchen and let the chefs get in touch with the people. Also the limited capacity goes hand in hand with the individual approach.

What do you consider your chef’s signature? Favourite dish? And what can we expect in the future?

One of our favourite courses is rolls. People like the freshness and the combination of flavours. We strive to do better every time we create a new menu. Our plan is to play even more with temperatures and textures.

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Photo by Leigh Woods

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Chef’s Recipe Tom yum rolls

INGREDIENTS serves 1 - 2

For the rolls: Rice papper Green perila Thai basil Tomatoes Shrimp Green rice Oil For pickled shallots:

METHOD First, dry the tomatoes in the oven on 70°C for 5 hours and pickle the shallots.

Peel and juice the beetroot. Cut the shallots in rings and pickle by covering them with the beetroot juice, 1 teaspoon of vinegar, and 1 whole shallot. Let it sit for at least one hour.

For the coconut paste: In a food processor, mix the coconut with one tablespoon of sugar and a pinch of salt.

When it becomes a paste, add a little bit of coconut milk. It should have the consistency of toothpaste.

Beetroot Shallots Vinegar

To make the sauce, put shallots, peeled ginger, galangal, lemongrass, and chillies in a food processor and mix into a fine paste. Heat the oil in a pan and roast the paste on medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the stock, lime leaves, and coconut milk. Boil covered on low heat for 15 minutes.

Season with palm sugar and fish sauce. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh. To thicken the sauce, mix tapioca starch with cold water and add a little to the sauce while cooking.

For paste:

For the rolls:

Shredded coconut 100g Coconut milk Sugar Salt

On low heat, boil the peeled and cleaned shrimp in the sauce for 2-4 minutes, depending on the size of your shrimps. Deep fry green rice on 200°C for a few seconds until puffed. Dip the rice paper in hot water for 1 second. Place on the cutting board and cover with paper perilla leaves, Thai basil, tomatoes, green rice, coconut paste, and shrimp. Roll it in towards the middle, then fold the sides and roll the rest.

For sauce: Shallots 50g Galangal 20g Lemongrass 30g Chillies 1-2 pcs Ginger 10g Lime leafs 2pcs Lime 1-2 pcs Palm sugar Salt Fish sauce Coconut milk 50ml Tapioca starch Shrimp or chicken stock 200ml Oil

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To plate, add some sauce to the bottom of a small dish, cut the roll into bite-sized pieces and place into the sauce. Delicately place the pickled shallots on top.

Enjoy your rolls!

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Photo by Leigh Woods

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Autumn Wines

Autumn Sips and Wines to Fall For

by Kristýna Krupková, sommelier at Foltýn Wine Autumn – what can we expect? Here in Central Europe, a crystal ball would be useful in predicting how the months of September and October are going to treat us. I suppose we can expect some warm, sunny days and some very cold ones, as is usual for this time of year. Therefore, our selection of wines should be pretty universal. Let’s start with the bubbles.

Lambrusco is making a big comeback. In Germany and the USA, sales of premium-quality Lambrusco are growing and its current style is definitely not the same as the industrial, sweet, fizzy wine sold globally in large quantities in the eighties. There is more to Lambrusco now. It is trendy, refreshing, delicious, sparkling, and red! You can occasionally find rosé variants as well. At Foltýn Wine, we began importing wines from a highquality Lambrusco winery less than a year ago, and I must say we have definitely proved that it is a great wine. When people actually taste it, they surprisedly like and buy it, despite Lambrusco’s reputation of being the cheap stuff in every pizzeria. So don’t be afraid to taste some, especially if you like bubbly but prefer reds. It complements steak and grilled meat perfectly, and also goes superbly with Mediterranean cured ham and salami.

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In Europe, autumn is harvest time, and also the period when many winemakers are under a lot of strain. They spend a lot of time watching the sky and are often unable to offer winery tours or even pack an order for you.

Simply put, they are very busy. You might want to reach for your stock of Austrian Grüner Veltliner or German Riesling from past vintages on the warm days of babí léto (Indian summer), and let the vintners do their job.

Simply lie back and wait for the new, hopefully amazing, vintage. Grüner Veltliner is the signature grape of Austria and we import many amazing examples, from young, fresh ones to the oak-aged Reserves and Alte Reben (meaning old vine) styles. Rieslings from Germany are a classic, and in our selection, you can find a wide range, from refreshing young wines with pronounced but well-balanced acidity, to the bolder, more exceptional ones with some oak influence and longer ageing. There are also very fine, sweet wines made from botrytised grapes, like the great Rieslings from the world-renowned winery Schloss Johannisberg in Rheingau.

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For cold and rainy days there are some wonderful warming New World wines from Australia, South Africa, and the Americas. Examples include the great Syrah (with a small percentage of the white grape Viognier) called Wildflower from Salomon Estate in South Australia, or the juicy Carménère from the Chilean winery Chocalán. If you are not a fan of red wine, there are still plenty of whites that have been smoothed by oak maturation that you should not miss. These include Californian Chardonnays like Bogle; a South African oak-aged Chenin Blanc from Stellenrust; and even Grauburgunder, made in a New World style by the Dürnberg winery in Austria.

If you are up for something a little unusual, try the skin-fermented wines and sparkling Pét-nats from New Zealand and Austria. Supernatural Wine Co. in Hawke’s Bay and Salomon Undhof in Kremstal are making some pretty interesting wines using these traditional techniques. Pétillant-naturel or naturally sparkling wine is bottled before the first fermentation is complete, together with its lees, and so it is naturally fizzy and cloudy.

This is called the “méthode ancestrale.” It is older than the “traditional method” and the bottles are mostly closed with a crown top. Skin-contact fermentation in still wines is also a very old method, and creates some amazingly textured white wines that even red drinkers often enjoy, like The Supernatural Sauvignon Blanc.

I have been employed by Foltýn Wine for a few years now, and I’ve spent enough time in the industry to know that the quality of wines in local supermarkets is generally poor. I can only recommend that you check our e-shop next time you need a bottle or two to fill up your wine storage.

Foltýn Wine only imports products we would want to drink ourselves, from really cool, smaller winemakers (often organic) and family-run wineries.

We deliver within Prague every workday and use a courier service for the whole of the Czech Republic. If you decide to try our wines, be sure to let us know you’ve read this article by using the code “Oko” when submitting your order, and you will be pleasantly surprised by our prices.

Cheers!

For more wines, check out www.foltynwine.cz.

Photo by Willian West

WINE

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Burčák

The Nation’s Favourite Under-fermented Beverage

By Anna West

While the Czech Republic is known globally as a first-rate beer destination, Moravian wines come a close second. Burčák, one such wine, holds a special place in the canon of locally celebrated beverages.

Around September, Prague residents may begin to notice advertisements in wine shop windows promoting the sale of burčák. To those unfamiliar with this popular beverage, burčák (pronounced boor-chaak) is a young, partially fermented wine made from Moravian grapes. It’s also known as bourru or vernache in French, Federweisser in German, and must in English, and its appearance marks the start of the grape harvesting season and the beginning of autumn.

Wines typically undergo a primary and secondary fermentation process to ensure the yeast they contain has exhausted its life cycle, and to reach the desired alcohol content. When wines are referred to as young, it means they are only at the beginning stage of the fermentation process.

Fermentation occurs when yeast feeds on the sugars present in the grape juice. Yeasts, which can occur naturally or be introduced to the juice, transform sugars into ethanol (alcohol), carbon dioxide, and heat.

Because burčák is only partially fermented, it typically has an alcohol content between 1% and 7%, whereas other natural wines tend to have an alcohol range of 12.5% to 14.5% alcohol by volume (ABV). In some cases, this leads unaware drinkers to mistake burčák for a harmless juice, and they are then surprised by its strength.

The incomplete fermentation of burčák leaves it carbonated with sediments (think kombucha). Like aged wines, it comes in both red and white varieties. In reality, the white variety is yellower and more honeycoloured than a classic Sauvignon Blanc, and is more commonly sold.

The red variety of burčák is harder to find because it requires a longer production process, in which mashed dark blue or purple grapes are left to soak so that the pigment from the skins is released, giving the wine its ruby-red colour. Some liken its flavour to that of raspberry and other forest fruits.

For a drink to be labelled as burčák, the Czech Wine Act stipulates that the freshly harvested juice must come from domestic grapes. Additionally, burčák may only be sold during the period from 1 August to the end of November in the relevant calendar year. With its limited availability, the drink reaches peak consumption in autumn.

While burčák can be found in vinárny and local farmers’ markets all over the Czech Republic from August to November, the young wine is perhaps no more celebrated than in vinobraní festivals in Moravia, where most Czech grapes are harvested. One such celebration is Burčákfest in the South Moravian town of Znojmo, near the Austrian border. The festival was first held in 2005 in cooperation with the wine producer Znovín Znojmo. Since then it has expanded in its wine offerings, as well as its accompanying events, and it is now held on the premises of the Loucký Monastery complex. This year it will take place on the weekend of September 27.

Photo by Faris Mohammed

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WINE

Commenting on the types of wine offered at the event, Znovín Znojmo said, “We try to offer at least three varieties of burčák.

Mostly we offer varieties that ripen in September, such as MüllerThurgau, Moravian Muscat, Irsai Olivér, and Chardonnay.”

In addition to the extensive wine program, the festival pairs wine with traditional Moravian cuisine, such as kapří hranolky (carp fries), prasátko na rožni (pig roast), and valašské frgále, a type of large koláče. According to Znovín Znojmo, more than 3,000 people attend the annual event, from both inside and outside the Czech Republic.

Taking part in burčák tasting, whether at your local farmers’ market or at a Moravian vinobraní festival, means experiencing this rich Czech tradition. To those attending this year’s burčák festivities, remember – but perhaps do not heed – the Moravian saying that says one should drink an amount of burčák equivalent to the volume of blood running through one’s veins.

Photo by Roberta Sorge

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Prague 6 In The Spotlight A Place to Call Home

By Julie Orlova

Břevnov, Strahov, Ořechovka, Bílá Hora, Hvězda, Veleslavín, Ruzyně, Kajetánka, Dejvice … The list of Prague 6’s cadastral areas might not go on forever, but it is definitely impressive. Our In the Spotlight feature usually features just one area, dissecting its history and looking into its future. This time we are focusing on a number of them, united by the number six and a feeling of homeyness.

Ořechovka for Time Travelling Let’s start with a hidden gem. Most of Prague 6 consists of former villages annexed by Prague in 1922. Ořechovka is the only one where you step in and truly feel like you are in an English village. Mr. and Mrs. Smith wouldn’t mind living here – cherry-red brick walls with tall narrow windows, white carved shutters, and charming little gardens in front.

The architects behind Ořechovka’s style were Jaroslav Vondrák and Jan Šenkýř, who drew inspiration from the garden city concept developed

by Ebenezer Howard at the turn of the 20th century, and in particular the movement that emerged across England in the early 1920s.

It is unknown if the officials and councillors of the newly created First Republic ministries appreciated the quaint atmosphere of the settlement.

What we do know is that Ořechovka became one of the most desired addresses of the first half of the 20th century. It’s close to the castle and the centre, yet is secluded and with a very close community. And it was here that the trolleybus was introduced to Prague in 1936, connecting the area with Dejvice, where all the new offices were located. However, rapid construction and a focus on appearance brought along several inconveniences – there were no garages and the flats inside the luxurious-looking buildings were small and rickety.

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Ořechovka looks the same to this day – crimson and green, charming and self-sufficient, with a central building (Ústřední budova spolková a konzumní) you can’t miss. In the past, a market, a cinema, a restaurant, a café with a wine bar, and a doctor’s office all found a home here. In 1927, the social importance of this building was further enhanced by the addition of a new theatre and a dance hall. There was also a library, a post office, and a clubhouse. This single building housed all the area’s civic amenities.

Today, Ořechovka does not meet the usual standards of living. There are hardly any shops left, the cinema is closed, and the doctor rented a better office in Dejvice. The area feels stuck in the past. At night, the only glowing logo is that of the grocery franchise Žabka, looking so out of place it gives off an almost sinister feeling.

Břevnov – the City of One Street If you take tram 22 with the destination Vypich, for the last 20 minutes of your journey you will be passing through Břevnov. It may not stand out in any way, but it doesn’t lack character. It’s heaven for lovers of walking, young families, and tourists who prefer seeing authentic city life instead of polished central areas. Břevnov was first and foremost a Benedictine monastery, and the residential area built around it was first mentioned as

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

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early as 993. Almost 1,000 years later, Emperor Franz Joseph I visited and made a speech thanking the people who assembled. His poor grasp of the Czech language led him to accidently thank the “city” of Břevnov for the warm reception. The mayor quickly took the matter into his own hands, thanking the emperor for raising the status of the local village (population 9,000) to a city before he could even realise his mistake.

The citizens of Břevnov didn’t enjoy their independence for long – as of 1 January 1922, Břevnov was annexed to Greater Prague..

Unfortunately, we will never know what the village-city looked like: it was completely demolished in the 1970s. The centre of the cadastral area was and still is Bělohorská Street – the one you go up when you take tram 22. The life of the whole district revolves around it and there are even some places worth a visit if you want to step into the shoes of a Břevnov resident. He goes dancing at Na Marjánce, to concerts at the cultural centre U Kaštanu, and to the cinema at Dlabačov. He climbs up the steep hillside above the main avenue only once on his way home. He enjoys the serenity and laughs at the myths about how luxurious and hip Břevnov is, but doesn’t hesitate to dine and shop at the lavish Moje Kredenc.

Prague 6 is known for its lush green areas and Břevnov is home to most of them. First of all, the territories around both the Břevnov and Strahov monasteries are worth visiting, even if just to try the locally brewed beer and to see how many types of birds you can identify. And Ladronka is probably the most overlooked park in Prague. It might be quite distant (the final stop of the aforementioned tram 22) and mostly used for all kinds of track sports (beware of roller-skaters), but the park itself and the area around it have a lot of stories to tell. In 1968 the park served as a camp for a large contingent of Russian occupiers and even today tank tracks can be seen on some of the asphalt roads. In the early 1990s, the Ladronka area was occupied by squatters with the aim of building a centre for the alternative and marginal subcultural scene. Within their limited possibilities, inhabitants held exhibitions, discussions, lectures, theatre performances, and concerts until the end of 2000, when they were evicted. Now Ladronka draws all kinds of people with its music, drinks, and sausages, especially for Walpurgis Night, when the main fire is lit.

Dejvice If you are getting the feeling that Prague 6 is a luxurious area, you’re not wrong. Dejvice is the epitome of that, with its high rents and grand villas.

But the opulence of Dejvice is not smug. Dej-vice literally means “give more”, and in this case, it means “give more credit.”

The heart of the area is Vítězné náměstí (Victory Square), which conveniently can be used to study the history of the 19th and 20th centuries.

The original name, Victory Square, was used from 1925 to 1940, then, during World War II it was renamed Wehrmacht Square. From 1946 it was the Square of Dr. Edvard Beneš, but only until the early fifties (the height of Stalinism). Toward the beginning of the Communist era, it became the Square of the October Revolution, which lasted until 1990. The original name came back, but currently everyone refers to it as Kulaťak.

You probably know it as the home of one of the best farmers’ markets in Prague. Fresh produce and bread, flowers, and a jazz band – this is where you will find me every Saturday morning.

Another echo of the past is the Hotel International (formerly Hotel Družba), which doesn’t have a good reputation among locals, due to the era in which it was created. International is built in the socialist realist style and is reminiscent of Moscow’s Seven Sisters. In the fifties, it was the most luxurious hotel (nearly 200 rooms) in Czechoslovakia and it is still the largest building of its kind in the country. Now its popularity is slowly returning with the help of guided tours.

In the eyes of locals, Prague 6 is a district of universities; of the creativity of young blood; greenery; luxury villas and ascetic monasteries; of omnipresent history and the underground. It is the only district so far that has avoided labelling and is proud but not smug – only in Prague 6 can you see Czech flags unfurled on national holidays. Nobody tells them to, people hang them on their own.

Photos by Julie Orlova

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Aussie & Kiwi Film Fest Freedom is not free ABOUT

VENUES

Aussie & Kiwi Film Fest has been a vital hub for enthusiasts of Australian and New Zealand cinema and culture since 2014. Unique cultural event ranges from aussie and kiwi blockbusters, feature films, independent and student films to interesting documentaries. Festival hosts special event screenings throughout the year with guests, Q & As with actors or filmmakers. Showcase presents events like panel discussion with experts, Maori dance performance, didgeridoo play, exibitions and wine tasting.

Taking place in the vibrant heart of Prague in one of the oldest cinema in Czech Republic – Lucerna. With 110 years of film screening tradition the cinema has 453 seats and modern sound and screening technology it is the most visited classic cinema in Prague. Ponrepo is cinema of Czech National Film Archive in Bartolomějská street close to historical city and thrives the special cultural atmosphere. Both cinemas stands for theirs quality programming through the year. Events take place in Václav Havel Library, Champagneria bar and in Café Lucerna and Ponrepo Café.

FREEDOM is the 6th year´s Aussie & Kiwi Film Fest main theme because Czech Republic commemorates 30 years from Velvet Revolution in November 1989. This year´s films and events will show different forms of freedom and remind that freedom is not commonplace and also in 21st century freedom should be guarded, because it is threatened.

confident, urban, single, mother of two who lives in metropolis New Zealand. One night she drunkenly takes home, Rob, an overly keen University student, and Rachel decides she needs to skip town quickly after Rob’s post ‘one night stand’ advances. A film that Rachel acted in is selected for a rural Māori film festival and it’s Rachel’s insistent mother, Margot, who volunteers to escort her. Rachel reluctantly goes and is instantly drawn to Nikki; an attractive, Samoan, female, filmmaker...

The 6th annual festival of Australian and New Zealand films in Prague will be held in cinemas Lucerna and Ponrepo in city centre. Showcase of feature films, documentaries, pearls from film archive as well as shorts from down under lasts from 1st till 6th November 2019. Festival and its events invite viewers to discover new worlds, familiar to some, though still full of mysteries and wonder. Here is a part of this years AKFF program: Freedom and emancipation of women and challenges of gender equality will be shown in VAI film. Vai is a portmanteau feature film made by nine female Pacific filmmakers, filmed in seven different Pacific countries: Fiji, Tonga, Solomon Islands, Kuki Airani (Cook Islands), Samoa, Niue and Āotearoa (New Zealand). It is about the journey of empowerment through culture over the lifetime of one woman, Vai, played by a different indigenous actress in each of the Pacific countries. In each of these Pacific nations ‘vai’ means water.

From the absolutely cherished best selling Australian novella, comes STORM BOY which is beautiful and contemporary film retelling of Colin Thiele’s classic Austrian tale. Story for all ages, this is a truly inspirational feature film for the entire family. And with the star cast of Jai Courtney, Geoffrey Rush, and introducing Finn Little, this film is a crowd pleaser for all. A truly timeless story of unusual and unconventional friendship.

Two screenings about freedom of love of all ways will support our programme this year: SAME BUT DIFFERENT: Rachel is an attractive,

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Iconic Australian film about freedom itself and all kinds of love is PRISCILLA, QUEEN OF THE DESERT which celebrates 25 years anniversary.

The landmark film was released in 1994, starring Hugo Weaving and Guy Pearce as drag queens who travel through the Australian outback with Stamp's character Bernadette, to perform in Alice Springs. It earned more than $35 million at the international box office. Before screening on the 2nd November in Lucerna cinema will perform travesty dancers trio.

DAFFODILS, directed by Adrien Benson, with Maggie May Cook is a bittersweet love story told with beautiful re-imaginings of iconic New Zealand songs. Two estranged siblings are forced to reconnect after getting caught up in a robbery-gone-wrong. This film will close our festival in Ponrepo cinema and as a tradition screening will be supported by wine tasting from our partner Foltýn Wine.

Festival screenings supports exibitions, special events and Q & A from the 1st November opening gala screening in Lucerna, followed by panel discussions and wine tasting in Ponrepo and Václav Havel Library in the following days. To learn more about this year´s brilliant program of films take a look at website www.aussieakiwi.cz or Facebook page www. facebook.com/aussiekiwifilmfest. You can follow us on Instagram or Twitter accounts: @aussiekiwifilmfest.

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Smart Homes – Boon or Bane?

Homes Are Getting Smarter, But What About Their Inhabitants?

By Dominik Ježek

Imagine returning home after a long and tiring day. The front door opens as you press your thumb against its small display. Then you clap your hands to turn the lights on. Your fridge asks you about your day while the air conditioner releases a lavender scent because your smartwatch has detected higher blood pressure and stress levels. The blinds are slowly lowered and the mellow voice of your digital assistant suggests you take a power nap because your loved one’s GPS signal indicates she’s stuck in traffic and won’t be home for about half an hour.

Now imagine the kind “it’s been a tough day, thanks for asking” fridge is secretly recording you. Furthermore, its manufacturer sells your data to third parties without your consent. You are also trying to force the porn site to pull down the video where you “get busy” in the living room because someone hacked the camera on your smart TV. Not to mention the virus that targets smart front doors and locks people out of their homes until they send money to hackers’ accounts. And this is just the tip of the iceberg.

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Necessity, laziness, and wet dreams It’s baffling how old-school sci-fi movies with Arnold Schwarzenegger, Tom Cruise, Sylvester Stallone, or Michael J. Fox are becoming reality.

Voice-activated computers, drones, or virtual reality have turned from geeky dreams into something as commonplace as a washing machine.

Furthermore, objects such as self-driving cars, holograms, and hoverboards were already put into practice years ago, with various degrees of success.

IT majors’ fantasies has always been one of the leading forces driving human inventiveness. The other two main reasons are necessity and laziness. Since you’re probably not reading these words in an overpopulated South Korea, scorching Israel, or any war-torn country, necessity – when it comes to technology – might not apply to you. No, air-conditioned rooms and remote controls do not count as necessities. Get real.

TECHNOLOGY

By a process of elimination, laziness remains. The internet is overflowing with articles on how technologies are making us lazier, dumber, and addicted to effortless entertainment. It looks like people knew this as far back as 70 years ago, when the Zenith Radio Corporation made the first TV remote control and called it the “Lazy Bones.” There are, of course, pros and cons to these inventions. While some people’s butts might be increasing in size, others can direct additional focus to important matters such as studying, conducting research, or even just spending more time participating in family activities. Fewer chores, no requirement to enter a physical store for groceries, you name it. That’s why the notion of smart homes sounds so appealing.

Ineffable fridges IQ house, intelligent house, IT house – all these roughly mean the same thing and are collectively known as smart homes.

According to the common definition, a smart home responds to the needs of residents to increase their comfort, make their entertainment more enjoyable, guarantee maximum safety, and reduce operating costs. This is done by various interconnected electronic devices. Since everything has a dedicated app nowadays, you can remotely control your house from just about anywhere in the world with an internet signal.

Smart homes have many tricks up their sleeve. Some of the most obvious are smart lighting and automatic temperature regulation. If the heating system allows it, you can set up morning and evening temperatures in every room. With smart lighting, you can easily set the lights to reduce or increase brightness gradually, depending on the time of day, or even to turn themselves off if they detect no movement.

Too much sugar Set up profiles and name them accordingly. Just make sure that when you proudly shout out “turn on profile saving planet,” your smart assistant does not pull down the blinds and play Def Leppard’s Pour Some Sugar on Me. To all our readers who are single and want to invite someone over, this might be a cool icebreaker. And since we are not brave enough, anyone who tries this and sends us the result gets a beer (don’t hold us to that).

In case your visitors aren’t exactly keen on sharing some sugar with Def Leppard, you can show them how your windows automatically open to allow warm air to enter your home upon detecting sunshine. Then, let them manually open the windows, which will turn the heating off. Magic! Humidity and temperature sensors are taking care of this stuff anyway. See, we are saving the planet here.

Suppose you are at work and when trying to call your spouse at home, they do not pick up the phone. You then turn on the smart home control app, connect to the window blinds, and pull them up.

Scary, yet harmless. If you feel a bit cheeky, you can play with the thermostat. Before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s presume your spouse managed to call you back and your iFridge cannot shoot ice cubes like a Mets pitcher. Yes, there is something ineffable about smart fridges that we deeply distrust.

Smart homes also bring the promise of increased security. Houses can move the blinds or turn the lights on and off a few times to ward off possible burglars when you are enjoying a vacation., You can get a notification whenever your small child manages to wiggle their way out of their room and you can check if you really, really (I mean, really?) unplugged the iron when you were leaving for work.

Best of all, you can big-brother everything through a dedicated app on your phone.

Built to impress

The dark underbelly

If this real-life example made you consider smartening your home, we better get down to basics. First, you have to choose how much wiring will be involved. The time-tested rule of thumb is quite concise – a wire is a wire. In other words, physical wires are better than WiFi or Bluetooth. They are more reliable, secure, efficient, and, if you believe in it, emit less electronic smog.

Alright, enough of the sugar-sweet marketing talk. We’re not here to glorify the booming market of advanced automation. On the contrary. Since smart homes are slowly creeping into our lives and Berg Insight estimates 84 million households in Europe (that’s more than a third) will host IoT (IoT = Internet of Things = network of things that can connect to the Internet = open buffet for hackers) devices by 2022, let’s check what’s under the carpet.

For cheaper solutions with Google Home or Amazon’s Alexa and a few connected devices (just don’t say fridge) whose main aim is to amaze your acquaintances with voice commands, wireless does the job pretty well.

Photo by Mark Tegethoff

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Even the most mundane part, money savings, doesn’t quite add up.

The initial costs, which can amount to hundreds of thousands of Czech crowns, might not come back in energy savings, as the salesmen say.

Top-notch electro-installations can amount to more than 10 % of the cost of a new property. If you don’t want to invest in expensive construction work and “smart wiring,” you will surely get to the sweet savings part, though a new, even worse, problem arises.

The internet is a beautiful place where regular people can play chess with the reigning world champion, ask scientists and experts about complex issues, and be hacked by anyone, anytime. Cutting corners when putting your smart home together might, therefore, come at the cost of your security and privacy.

Speaking of security, most smart homes nowadays use WiFi, which is the most convenient and hazardous idea ever. It’s like trying to tame a pride of lions with a big stick because it worked on your dog. It takes a few minutes of googling to find various ways of hacking into WiFi. Even looking up how to beat the hardest levels of Candy Crush takes more time. Why? We’re glad you asked.

En route to your router

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TECHNOLOGY

Photo by Tesla.com

Photo by Misha Feshchak

The most obvious place to look for any online attacks is the dusty twinkling box that gives you WiFi and a TV signal – the router.

When someone manages to break into it, all connected devices are at risk. According to last year’s American Consumer Institute research, five in six routers in US homes and offices are vulnerable to a cyber-attack. Dumb Americans, right? Well, Avast’s survey shows that 42 % of Czechs don’t have a clue that there is something such as firmware updates and 25 % have never logged into their routers to change the admin password. You had better learn these basics before even thinking about setting up a smart home.

Since it’s increasingly hard to find an electronic device that is not connected to the Internet, it’s also a much tougher job to secure everything. Lightbulbs, coffee machines, speakers, or (you guessed it) fridges could serve as an entrance into your home system. Juniper Research estimates the number of IoT devices will exceed 38.5 billion by 2020. That’s more than 4.5 devices connected to the Internet per human being.

To scare you a bit more, many manufacturers provide their devices with only the necessary basic security or omit a few parts to push down the costs. Surprise, surprise. If you remember how nasty PC and cell phone malware got when the two technologies were waking up to the world, then you’ll know we’re in for a treat.

Coming back to the sci-fi movies, smart homes are perhaps

rightfully back in vogue as the main movie villains. The screenplay might look ridiculous and illogical now, but can anyone remember how Enemy of the State turned out to be ahead of its time? Tech thrillers are the best I-told-you-so prophets.

Gone phishing The fun part is that no matter how well secured your home is, human error remains the king and the queen of any data breaches.

People don’t care about updating security software, changing passwords, or checking who sent them the suspicious-looking email requesting them to click on a button or a link. Giving permissions to mobile apps that promise to enhance your selfies or tell you who is behind the withheld number calling your phone is a topic for another article.

Smart homes are a nascent market offering a mountain of opportunities and a gorge of neglected IT security. If you want to jump in and stand at the vanguard, you’d better be prepared for some slaps. The good news is that with proper IT diligence, you can mitigate all the risks to make your home 99% hacker-proof. It is all up to you.

TECHNOLOGY

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Czech Silesia

Explore the Czech Republic’s Forgotten Region

By Anna West

Europe is filled with postcard-perfect landscapes boasting national parks, snow-capped mountains, and far-off wooden cottages. While there are many places in the Czech Republic that host all three, one that is less travelled by outsiders is the region of Czech Silesia.

Home to part of the the Krkonoše mountain range, Czech Silesia (České Slezsko) is a historical region in the northeast of the country, bordering Moravia in the south, Poland in the north, and Slovakia to the southeast.

The mountainous region’s most prominent point is Sněžka, which at 1,603m is the highest summit in the country. Silesia’s major rivers are the Odra, Opava, and Olše, which forms part of the natural border with Poland. After Ostrava, the most important cities in the region are Opava and Český Těšín.

The region of Silesia has a complicated history, as it has been occupied

by Czechs, Germans, and Poles alike. Today, the region of Czech Silesia consists primarily of the land that remained under the Bohemian Crown at the end of the First Silesian War in 1742, when the Habsburg Monarchy under Maria Theresa had to cede the rest of Silesia to Prussia.

After the defeat of Germany and the collapse of Austria-Hungary in the First World War, the regions sought to address conflicting claims over the Silesian territory. Poland and Czechoslovakia gained the former Austrian districts of Cieszyn and Opava, while Germany and Poland had conflicting claims to Upper Silesia. The 1919 Treaty of Versailles called on the region’s populus to determine to which nation it wished to belong.

Eventually, Poland acquired the southeastern part of Upper Silesia, and Lower Silesia, meanwhile, was left entirely to Germany. However, Nazi Germany reacquired Upper Silesia with its invasion of Poland in 1939 and filled much of the Polish and Czechoslovak Silesia regions with German settlers.

During the Second World War, a series of decrees known as the Beneš decrees were issued by then-President of Czechoslovakia, Edvard Beneš, and the Czechoslovak government-in-exile. They called not only for the denazification of Czechoslovakia, but also for the expulsion and confiscation of property of some 2.5 million ethnic Germans living in Czechoslovakia. As a result of the postwar Potsdam Conference, Winston Churchill, Joseph Stalin, and Harry S. Truman sanctioned the decrees and Germans residing in Silesia and the rest of the country were forced to leave, even if they had resided in Czechoslovakia prior to the war.

The expulsion of Germans from Silesia remained a contentious issue in contemporary Czech and European politics up until the 1990s.

Many of those who were expelled have called on the Czech government to compensate them for their losses, abolish the decrees, and return ownership of their properties. However, the Czech government has rejected these demands. In 2013, Czech President Miloš Zeman told Austrian reporters, “When a citizen of some country collaborates with a country that has occupied his state, an expulsion is a subtler [form of] punishment than, for example, a death penalty.” His comments sparked both international and domestic outrage, as his comment implied that perhaps Sudeten Germans could have faced even worse punishment.

Despite Zeman’s controversial comments, the Czech Republic has made conciliatory gestures to Germans by expressing regret over the postwar expulsion.

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SCIENCE & NATURE

Photo by Marcin Szala

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Those interested in furthering their knowledge of Czech Silesia’s more distant past can explore the region’s many castles. Perhaps the most well-known is Štramberk in the Nový Jičín district, a fourteenth-century castle likely built by the noble Czech-Silesian Benešov family. Štramberk is also home to a permanent exhibition of the work of famous Czech book illustrator and paleoartist Zdeněk Burian, who was born in nearby Kopřivnice.

Only 30km from Nový Jičín lies Silesia’s largest city, Ostrava, which represents the industrial hub of the region, but is also home to a burgeoning arts scene. Every July, the music and arts festival Colours of Ostrava is held in the Dolní Vítkovice district, an area that used to support mines and ironworks. The festival attracts more than 30,000 visitors annually and features international headliners. To escape the city and the crowds, one can head to the Jeseníky or the neighbouring Beskydy mountains for summer hiking, and skiing in the winter. Jeseníky’s Ovčárna ski centre is the highest-placed skiing centre in the Czech Republic and is typically open from November to April. If you are not one for exercise, the spa town Karlova Studánka offers relaxation year-round.

When exploring Czech Silesia, one might notice some differences in the spoken language compared to other Czech cities. Many ethnic groups have lived in the region, and Czech Silesia’s language reflects that diversity. In parts of the Hlučín region, northeastern Moravia, and even villages in adjacent Poland, the population speaks Lach, a West Slavic dialect with elements of both Polish and Czech. In 1888, the famous Czech composer Leoš Janáček wrote The Lachian Dances (Lašské tance), a classical work that celebrated and popularised the region. A half-century later, the Czech poet Óndra Łysohorsky (the pseudonym of Ervín Goj) created and systematised the written language of Lach through his poems. Today, younger Lach speakers use Czech as their written language, while Lach remains the dialect of daily speech. Because of the historical influence from Germany, 8% of Lachian vocabulary consists of words loaned from German.

A 2011 Polish census found that more than 800,000 Eastern Europeans identify as Silesian. In the Czech Republic, more than 12,000 people declared themselves to be of Silesian nationality. For travellers, Silesia’s geographic and cultural diversity is what makes it a destination worth visiting.

Photo by Marcin Szala

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SCIENCE & NATURE

Photo by Joadl

SCIENCE & NATURE

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The Tatra Bears

Conservation Meets Ecotourism in Europe’s Latest Holiday Hotspot

By Leigh Woods

Think of wildlife tourism, and what is the first thing that comes to mind? Perhaps you picture yourself on safari watching a herd of trumpeting elephants march across the open savannas of the Serengeti.

Maybe trekking through the dense forests of the Amazon basin in hopes of spotting the highly elusive jaguar is more your cup of tea. Whatever and wherever you imagine, it probably doesn’t belong on this continent.

In the Czech Republic, we tend to believe that the greatest wildernesses and creatures are half a world away. So it may come as a surprise to learn that Europe is actually home to some of the most fascinating animals to roam the planet, with some species inhabiting places located practically on our doorstep.

Travel to Bodø or Tromsø in northern Norway and you’ll have the opportunity to witness an incredible variety of marine life, including orcas, sperm whales, humpbacks, porpoises, and even the largest animal ever to have lived on Earth, the blue whale. Head southwest to the Andalusia region of Spain and you might spot ibex and flamingos, or perhaps even be lucky enough to catch a rare glimpse of one of the world’s rarest cats, the Iberian lynx.

But a little closer to home lies a real gem. The Tatras (specifically the High Tatras) occupied the top spot on Lonely Planet’s list of ten essential European destinations for 2019. Situated around 550km east of Prague, the almost mythical landscape comprises a towering realm of jagged peaks and tumbling waterfalls, with a spectacular array of flora adorning the rugged terrain and formidable beasts, including the iconic European brown bear, roaming the fertile forests.

By the end of the 20th century, hunting, deforestation and human-wildlife conflicts had caused brown bear populations to disappear from much of their original range in Europe. Conservation efforts succeeded in halting the decline and in some parts of the continent, bear populations are now recovering. Slovakia has become somewhat of a stronghold, hosting a growing population of around 1,500 bears, with around 130 residing in the Tatras National Park. This has led to a boom in wildlife tourism in the Tatras and now, spotting brown bears in their natural habitat has never been easier. Visitors also frequently observe other native species, including wild boar, deer, marmots, and the endemic and critically endangered Tatra chamois. Those with good fortune may even observe the elusive wolf, lynx, or wildcat.

The health of the ecosystem and great biodiversity in the Tatras is predominantly down to the conservation work being carried out there.

One of the organisations operating in the area is the Slovak Wildlife Society (SWS) – a non-profit that focuses on the brown bear, grey wolf, and Eurasian lynx. Established in 1998, and now an active member of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Bear Specialist Group, the SWS’s work entails developing effective measures to reduce human-wildlife conflicts and fostering greater understanding and acceptance of native predators within the surrounding communities.

The increase in the number of brown bears in the area has naturally led to a rise in human-wildlife conflicts, with interactions occurring more frequently due to reasons such as poor storage of refuse. Rare cases in which bears display threatening behaviour are often sensationalised in the media, leading to a heightened sense of fear among the general public. The SWS responded to this situation by launching the B.E.A.R.S. (Bear Education, Awareness, and Research in Slovakia) Project in 2003 (www.medvede.sk).

Photo by Qvidemus

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The B.E.A.R.S. Project has been providing expert knowledge and assistance to locals in implementing non-lethal measures to prevent conflicts, including livestock-guarding dogs, electric fences, and bear-proof bins.

Further, the scientific research carried out has provided authorities with a sound basis for effective management decisions, in addition to contributing information for educational purposes and awareness campaigns.

In fact, the SWS has played a big role in introducing conservation to the community, helping to encourage children and young people to take an active interest in nature at “Bear Camps” and other outdoor activities, hosting photographic exhibitions, and organising seminars and workshops.

But the work of the SWS extends further than small community projects.

Tourists venturing to this increasingly popular destination have the opportunity to book walking and biking tours where they can witness the bears and other wildlife amid the stunning scenery of the Carpathians.

Tourists are guided by locally based wildlife experts with decades of experience combining responsible ecotourism with conservation research.

As specialists in large carnivores, the SWS guides provide guests with detailed insight into the lives of animals and the challenges they face.

Visitors exploring the extensive forests, mountains, and meadows will learn about their ecology and the conflicts with human interests that threaten their long-term survival. Participants can even play an active role in conservation through helping with fieldwork, which includes measuring and recording the tracks of bears, wolves, and lynx; collecting samples for genetic analysis; and monitoring animals with trail cameras.

Tours typically last six hours and cost €90 (around 2,300Kč) per person (based on two people booking a one-day tour together). The fees go directly to fund conservation and support the SWS’s continued efforts to protect wildlife and habitats from the growing pressures of development.

It is the belief of the SWS that sustainable tourism can help demonstrate to local communities the value of the natural environment around them.

These efforts, combined with their intensive education work, can help change the negative perception of bears and wolves from being animals which should be feared and reviled to being animals that local people can be proud of and want to preserve.

Sustainable tourism is all the rage these days, and for good reason. The industry has committed to making a smaller impact on the environment and local culture, and ensuring that development is a positive experience for surrounding communities, tourist companies, and tourists themselves.

By planning a trip to the nearby Tatras and booking wildlife tours with conservation groups such as the SWS, not only can you enjoy an unforgettable vacation in glorious settings, but you’ll also be doing your own small part to help conserve some of the flora and fauna that make the natural world so wondrous.

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European Brown Bear Ursus arctos arctos Diet: Bears are omnivorous, meaning they eat a wide variety of foods – from grass, fruit, insects, roots and bulbs of plants to carrion.

Population: Around 130 in the Tatras National Park and surrounding areas, approximately 1,500 in Slovakia.

Life Expectancy: Maximum 30 years in the wild.

Size - adult: Height 70-150cm Weight 80-350kg The European brown bear is one of the most common subspecies of brown bear and can be found across much of Eurasia. Large territories and a secretive lifestyle make it hard to determine their exact number, but there are estimated to be around 1,500 individuals distributed mostly across the central and northern mountains of Slovakia. Besides females with young, they usually lead a solitary life, but sometimes gather to feed at seasonally abundant food sources such as fruit trees. Bears start hibernating around November and are inactive from December to February or March, so now might be your last chance to see them this year!

Photo by Francis C. Franklin

Eurasian Wolf Canis lupus lupus Diet: Predominantly red deer, roe deer, and wild boar.

Occasionally also prey on livestock.

Population: Around 50 individuals in the Liptov region.

Life Expectancy: On average 6-8 years. Max. 13 years.

Size - adult: Height 80-85cm Weight 36-45kg Native to Europe and the forest and steppe zones of the former Soviet Union, the Eurasian wolf is a subspecies of grey wolf, which can also be found in North America.

The population of Eurasian wolves in Slovakia is estimated at around 400 individuals, with many of the packs forced to subsist largely on livestock and refuse in areas with dense human activity. They are a highly social animal whose basic social structure consists of a mated pair and their adult offspring. Packs are typically made up of a family of five to 11 animals, but large packs with numbers exceeding 40 wolves have been recorded in some parts of the world.

Photo by Tom Bech

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Eurasian Lynx Lynx lynx Diet: Mostly roe deer and brown hares, but may also take chamois, foxes, rodents, and birds.

Population: Around 15-20 in the Tatras.

Life Expectancy: Up to 14 years Size - adult: Height 70cm Weight 18-30kg The Eurasian lynx is a widely distributed medium-sized wild cat that inhabits forests up to an altitude of 5,500m in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. Its range also extends to Central Asia and Siberia, the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas. With an estimated global population of 10,000, approximately 200-300 Eurasian lynx prowl the mixed forests of Central and East Slovakia. These stealthy felines are incredibly secretive and their quiet nature has caused their presence in an area to go unnoticed by humans for years.

Photo by BĂśhringer Friedrich

Tatra Chamois Rupicapra rupicapra tatrica Diet: Mainly grass, herbs, and leaves in summer, plus sprouts and bark of trees as well as lichens in winter.

Population: 1,300-1,400 Life Expectancy: Up to 15-17 years Size - adult: Height 70-80cm / Weight 25-45kg The critically endangered Tatra chamois is a subspecies of Alpine chamois and inhabits all parts of the Tatras.

They are protected by the national parks in both Poland and Slovakia. From 1999-2000, populations of these slender bovids dropped below 200 individuals, but a five-year programme initiated in 2001 to save them has since seen the species recover. Today, the population stands between 1,300 and 1,400 individuals, which are the highest numbers of Tatra chamois in recorded history. They tend to frequent alpine meadows, cliffs, and boulder fields above the treeline at 1,700m.

Photo by Jakub Hałun

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Hiking Trails in the Czech Republic Trekking, Tramping, Trudging, Strolling

By Ro Daniels

photo by Hilarmont

“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.” – Camus In a city as leafy as Prague, autumn is a delight. Hailed by some as the greenest capital city in Europe, Prague’s streets are said to be lined with over 25,000 trees, and 10% of the city’s territory is occupied by woodland.

In the rest of the Republic, the transition from summer to winter is just as beautiful, as thousands of trees shed their leaves. The autumn colours and the cooler temperatures – imagine slogging up a Krkonoše peak in the middle of a July heatwave – make this season the perfect time to pack a rucksack and head out into nature.

Putting the sublime beauty of nature aside for a second, hiking is also an obligatory pastime for any expats trying to immerse themselves in Czech culture. The country is criss-crossed by a network of hiking trails dating back to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and everyone seems to vacate the city on nice weekends, map in hand, to explore the great outdoors.

A true Czechophile could combine an autumn walk with another classic Czech pastime – mushrooming. Mushrooms are at their best in September and October, and collecting wild mushrooms is an integral part of Czech rural life. Be careful, though: reports suggest that hospital admissions spike in the autumn. As a general rule, avoid eating anything you don’t recognise, invest in a reliable guide, and remember that the more exciting a mushroom looks, the more likely it is to be poisonous.

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The network of hiking trails in the Czech Republic is famously clear, well-maintained, and thorough. There are almost 100,000 km of paths marked out, and they’re considered the best in Europe. Not only will they lead you through some of Europe’s most beautiful countryside, but some of the path markers also include extra information, quizzes, and tasks to get children involved. These so-called naučné stezky (learning paths) were developed to combine exercise with education and to encourage children to learn more about their local area. The curriculum provided by these paths is extremely varied – whether you want to find out more about beetles or explore Moravia’s wine-growing region, you’re sure to find something to pique your interest. There’s a learning trail to suit everyone, from art lovers to military history buffs. The website stezky.info contains information about the entire programme.

Some of the Czech Republic’s most striking scenery can be found in Český Ráj, the country’s first protected landscape area and a UNESCO Global Geopark, which boasts a high concentration of historical and natural wonders. Český Ráj is full of hiking trails through wild forests and geological phenomena. Most striking are the so-called rock towns or skalní města. Sandstone rock pillars – carved by wind, rain, frost, and, occasionally, by human hands – stand in grid-like patterns, seemingly mimicking an urban layout.

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The outstanding natural beauty of this area has inspired a catalogue of mythology and folklore, and a sense of magic permeates the whole terrain. On quiet days, at dusk or at dawn, it’s easy to feel somehow otherworldly, disconnected from the brash realities of city life, as though you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. This atmosphere will spark children’s imagination, and the wide variety of hiking trails means that even the littlest legs will be able to experience paradise. More serious alpinists will find some of the most challenging paths in the country, including several that require a walker to scramble over boulders and negotiate steep cliff faces.

As one of the more famous points of interests in the region, the trails here can occasionally feel overpopulated – especially in summer, when busloads of tourists are deposited on the outskirts of the area. The same can be said for the trails around Malá Amerika and Velká Amerika, two limestone quarries an hour and a half’s drive from Prague, so named because of their resemblance to the Grand Canyon.

Set in the countryside, these man-made valleys with their roughhewn rock walls and vibrant blue pools come as something of a shock, standing in stark contrast to the farmland and forests around them. You reach the treeline, the ground falls away, and you are standing on the edge, it feels, of the world. The area is popular with hikers and tourists alike, as Karlštejn Castle, built in 1348 by Charles IV, is located a stone’s throw from the trails.

While the area is now known as a film set (the Czechoslovak Spaghetti Western Lemonade Joe was filmed here), it was once the backdrop to some of the area’s spookiest stories. Most recently, witnesses report seeing the ghost of an SS soldier, Hans Hagen, floating about the region. Supernatural stories aside, the quarry was the site of a labour camp for political dissidents under socialism. A sombre monument resembling a cross between a gravestone and a barred window commemorates this chapter of history.

The Czech Republic, as everyone dodging little “gifts” on Prague’s

streets knows, is very dog-friendly. Český Ráj and Velká Amerika are no exception – hikers are encouraged to bring their pets, and areas where dogs must be kept on leads are clearly signposted.

Do keep a close eye on your dogs, though: the treacherous terrain and unexpected cliff faces may pose a risk to adventurous pups.

Hiking means different things to different people. For some, it’s an opportunity to connect with nature. For others, it’s a chance to push their bodies to the limit. And some people just want a nice day out, the chance to see some pretty scenery, and an excuse to eat an entire cake. If your ideal walk involves not that much walking and a lot of opportunities for coffee and beer, I’d recommend the naučná stezka from Roztocký Háj to Tiché Údolí. This path takes you on a gentle stroll through one of Prague’s prettiest and least known areas. The trail conveniently leads you right past U Lasíků, a café-bar known for its cakes, and Hospůdka Zvířátka, a pub with a petting zoo that kids will love.

If, like me, you’re fascinated by derelict industrial architecture, you’ll love the naučná stezka at Vojtěšská huť in Kladno, an hour’s bus journey from Prague. This short walk takes you around the site of a former ironworks while providing a commentary on twentieth-century industry. Sure, it doesn’t present you with the same sublime nature you get in Český Ráj, but it provides an interesting insight into recent Czech history.

The Czech Republic is a veritable paradise for walkers, with its clearly laid-out trails and diverse countryside. There are hikes to suit all sorts of people, whether you’d like to escape the big city in the otherworldly rock towns of Český Ráj, get a taste of the Grand Canyon at Velká Amerika, or meet some rabbits in Tiché Údolí.

Autumn colours are best enjoyed outside, so dig out your hiking boots and explore.

photo by Aproposnix

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Photo by Nasa

Czech In Space

To Boldly Go Where No Czech Has Gone Before

By Benny Water This year we celebrate the 50th anniversary of the successful Apollo 11 mission, during which Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin made history by taking humankind’s first steps on the Moon. The occasion was observed by over 600 million people back home, and marked a major victory for the Americans in the ongoing space race between themselves and Cold War rivals, the Soviet Union. It was a bitter contest in which the USSR had already boasted significant wins such as the launch of Earth’s first artificial satellite, Sputnik 1, on 4 October 1957, and sending the first human (Yuri Gagarin) into space on 12 April 1961.

All this talk about space had us at Oko! wondering whether there was any Czech involvement in the past, present, or future of space flight. To our surprise, we discovered that the first man in space who was neither American nor Russian was Vladimír Remek, born on 26 September 1948 in České Budějovice, then Czechoslovakia.

On 2 March 1978, the Soyuz 28 spaceship lifted off from a launchpad at the Baikonur Cosmodrome in southern Kazakhstan. It was the first mission in the Interkosmos space program, intended to give the Soviets’ Eastern Bloc allies access to space. During a 2018 interview with Radio Prague, Remek spoke of having a passion for space ever since he witnessed the launch of Sputnik 1, and that besides flying under the Soviet flag, he was proud to have given his country a space on the interstellar stage.

“Before me, there was the same number of Soviet and US cosmonauts, 43. So I became the 87th earthling to see our planet from outer space. I felt I was doing something for my country. It was, to use sporting terminology, a place on the podium, third spot. I was proud of the opportunity and that I’d fulfilled a boyhood dream. I saw in many ways how it had boosted the visibility of Czechoslovakia around the world.”

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Since 2008, the Czech Republic’s flag is proudly hoisted alongside those of the European Space Agency’s other member states, officially symbolising the country becoming its 18th member. In 2019, the country’s financial contribution to the European Space Agency is €33.1 million, a similar amount to countries such as Denmark, Finland, and Poland.

Prague is also home to the European Global Navigation Satellite Systems Agency headquarters, which provides invaluable information through satellites to assist in fields such as transport, farming, logistics, and other aspects of our daily lives.

To say that the Czech Republic has had a presence in international space technology would be an understatement. From its role in the early stages of the Cold War space race to today, the country has a rich history within the industry. And with its involvement in current satellite technologies, there is plenty of evidence to suggest that the Czech Republic will be an essential player in the future of aviation and space.

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Photo by spacefacts.de Left: Aleksei Aleksandrovich Right: VladimĂ­r Remek

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Rubén Contreras

The Man Behind Europe’s Tastiest Corn Tortillas

by Vanessa Gautschi

Rubén Contreras revolutionised the production and distribution of tortillas in Europe, bringing a spark of the Latin American spirit to thousands of European kitchens. Moctezuma Foods is the European leader in the production of real corn tortillas, hot sauces, and other Mexican goodies.

We had the opportunity to meet the man behind this brilliant idea and to talk about his journey from humble beginnings in Mexico to success in the Czech Republic, including what it took to become a successful Latin American entrepreneur in Europe.

On hearing the word “businessman” one can’t shake off the image of a stern-looking person in a suit. The man sitting opposite us, however, is anything but. Rubén has a relaxed and balanced persona with a smile on his face and a happy aura surrounding him. “If you expected me to show up in a suit, you’ve got another think coming,” he says with a hearty laugh.

We are about to find out that Rubén, indeed, is nothing like the stereotypical businessman.

Born into a middle-class family in Mexico City, Rubén developed a passion for American football at age five, when his father took him to a training session. He showed great talent and started to build his life around this rough sport. “My life was suddenly and wholly absorbed by American football. Five training sessions per week and a game every Saturday during the season took over my life.”

Rubén not only took great pleasure in the sport, but it also taught him many valuable lessons that came in handy further down the road.

“Consistency is key. Not only in sports, but also in business,” he says suddenly, with a determined look on his face.

With the help of a scholarship, he pursued a degree in international trade in Mexico, while paving his way into the European Football League.

Transfers to different teams followed – first to Munich, where he played for the Munich Cowboys, and then the Valencia Firebats signed him.

From Valencia, the strong safety player transferred to Madrid’s Bears and eventually ended up playing for the Vienna Knights for two seasons.

It was also in Austria where disaster struck. Rubén was injured and couldn’t play any longer. “I knew I had to do something different, I couldn’t just give up.”

Stung by hardship, Rubén wandered Vienna’s streets, looking for a little comfort food from home: tortillas. But nowhere could he find what he sought. “I was looking for a tortilleria – a thing you can find on every corner in Mexico.” And so, the idea of what his next step would be became clear. “I saw an opening and knew what I had to do.”

The execution of his idea, though, turned out to be anything but easy. “I didn’t know anything about making tortillas, the machines you needed, or the permits to be sought after,” he tells us. “It was hard, I won’t lie.” On top of that, everybody he knew felt like his business idea would fail, except for his family.

Rubén called his dad in Mexico and asked him to provide prices for a tortilla machine. With the price communicated, Rubén set out for Mexico and returned with newfound knowledge and a huge machine. “I had to transport this huge machine in my car and ship it across the ocean.

Only to drive all the way back to Vienna as soon as we anchored in Bremerhaven, Germany. When I sealed the container, I just hoped it would all make it.”

Make it they did. But upon their arrival, Rubén realised he needed a place to produce and sell the tortillas. “I needed to find a space quickly and one that would get me a lot of foot traffic.” And so he rented a spot on Vienna’s main shopping street.

“The first two years were anything but easy. I was working all the time. I didn’t have any tables or chairs and there were months where I made just enough to pay the hefty rent.” Further, customers of his real corn tortillas didn’t know how to eat them correctly. “It might sound curious now, but when I first started out, people attempted to eat their tortilla with a knife and fork.” As if that wasn’t discomforting enough for the Latin American, there were other, more serious problems.

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The municipal office of Vienna made it hard for him to get the required permissions to operate his business. An official visit revealed that he needed a permit for his tortilla machine, as it had not been built in Europe. “What kept me going through all of the hardship and setbacks was the same mantra I followed when I was still out on the field: ‘When you’re playing, you are willing to die.’

Meaning that if you do something, you do it right and with all your strength. This was my baby; I wouldn’t just let myself be benched.”

Rubén’s persistence paid off. Within nine years, Moctezuma reported growth of 3,600%, and it was the first tortilla-producing business to use vacuum-sealed packaging for its products. “I used to produce 30kg of corn tortillas a day. Now we’re making 1,500kg in the same amount of time.” It is no big surprise that accolades from influential news outlets followed. Moctezuma was on CNN’s Top 30 Impact in Mexican Economy list in 2015. The next year, it was named Most Inspirational Business and listed as one of the Top 30 Business Models by Forbes.

All of this wouldn’t have been possible without his family and the manner in which they raised him, Rubén says. “I will always look up to my parents, for they have always provided me and my siblings with everything we needed, no matter what it took. American football is an expensive sport.” And there is another person in Rubén’s life who has kept him highly motivated for the past three years. “My girlfriend really has been a big reason why I kept going, even through the hardest of times. Pavla is a big part of the success of this company.”

But success also has its downsides. Spending time with family and running a successful business is difficult to balance. “There are hundreds of family events that I couldn’t attend.” He pauses and adds, “People think that success is about money. But that’s not the case. Success is about leaving footprints.” So now that his team of 14 employees is well trained, Rubén wants to leave footprints in both his private life and on the sports field. “I want to have a family and be a good role model for my kids, just as my parents were for me.”

Between producing delicious tortillas and his private life, Rubén has still found time to coach American football in Europe. He also plays a role in college football programmes at the University of Oregon, UCLA, and others. He says, “It’s just fantastic to see how these guys want to be out on the field and give their best. They know this might be their first step into the big leagues – and you can see in their faces just how determined they are. It’s amazing to be able to work with such young, driven minds. That’s also why I want to build a sports facility centre here in Prague.”

Rubén has plans for Moctezuma to expand. Be it Canada, the USA, Argentina, or Poland – his dream is to see his products made available for every Mexican food lover anywhere in the world.

With his drive – on and off the field – Rubén is an inspiration to budding entrepreneurs and living proof that any goal can be achieved with determination, persistence, and a lot of passion – no matter the barriers one might face on the way to the top. Instead of giving up on his dream when the going got tough, Rubén fought against all odds and managed to establish a responsible and hugely successful international company, committed to bringing the real taste of Mexico to all corners of the globe.

Photos by Monctezuma

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Discover the culture in your city.

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Manifesto and reSITE

Bringing a New Vision of the Future to Cities

By Raymond Johnston

People’s lifestyles are changing, but cities built long ago have stayed the same. The non-profit organisation reSite has been trying to get urban planners and the wider public to rethink the concept of a city, and unleash its full potential.

Barry founded reSite in 2011 to see how useful it could be to provide new insight with a startup mentality. The idea has grown since then, with events in Lisbon, Berlin, and Prague. They are in the early stages of planning for San Francisco and Hong Kong.

ReSite was founded by Martin Barry, who is also behind the two Manifesto markets in Prague — at Florenc and in Smíchov — which revitalise disused spaces and transform them into cash-free pop-up markets with cultural events.

“We have hosted nearly 600 speakers from over 40 countries at our events, and reached millions via our media and live events. In an increasingly connected world, the biggest challenges facing cities can only be solved if people collaborate. We want to create links between professional groups or ideas where other people missed them,” he said.

Barry said he started reSite in 2011 because he wanted to listen, as he was growing tired of the rigid concepts of classic architecture, landscape, and urban design. Instead, he wants to push not only his own limits, but those of what a city can be.

“When I came to the Czech Republic during my Fulbright fellowship, I didn’t know a single person here. I left a good career in New York and frankly, was a bit terrified. I wanted to do three things with my time in Prague: reflect on the profession of architecture and urbanism, connect with others who engaged the topic, and create a sort of outlet to discuss my ideas because I was growing tired of what is known as a classic architecture, landscape, or the urban design profession,” Barry told Oko!.

He also wanted to work with interesting people from different professional and cultural backgrounds. Since then, he has been on a mission to inspire others to create better cities.

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The reSite event 2019, called Regenerate, will take place on 19 and 20 September at Prague’s Forum Karlín. “Each one of us has the creativity, resourcefulness, and power to make this world a better place, whether it be addressing climate change, sustainable growth, or civic architecture.

Thus, our theme Regenerate is a call to action”.

“Whether we are talking about regenerating a disused building with new uses and design, rethinking energy sources and our climate impact, or utilising art institutions to revitalise communities — we will offer ideas, inspiration and solutions to help cities and citizens redefine their resources for our changing needs, especially for younger urban dwellers who care about climate change and a high standard of living,” Barry added.

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With urban populations growing, so are the challenges facing cities.

According to Barry, these include building modern and resilient infrastructure, and creating affordable accommodation while simultaneously preparing for the imminent climate crisis.

The climate crisis will be a big issue going forward. “Not only will cities have to prepare for the impacts, but according to the latest United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report, they will play a key role in implementing environmentally friendly policies to halt the worst consequences of climate change,” Barry said.

“It is estimated that by 2050, cities will accommodate two-thirds of the world’s population. From encouraging more affordable and sustainable housing to better public transport and renewable energy, there are plenty of ways how cities can prepare for the climate crisis. We are also doing our part by using 100 % green energy at all Manifesto locations, and our head office for reSite and Manifesto, in partnership with Nano Energies.”

Barry’s most recent project in Prague was the new Manifesto Market at Smíchov, a formerly working-class industrial neighborhood. The market is located next to the National House Smíchov (Národní dům na Smíchově) on the Náměstí 14. října square.

The Manifesto Markets implement many of the core reSite concepts on a small scale. Barry called the Smíchov market a “new green oasis” in the city.

This one will be open for a very limited time, until the end of Christmas 2019. Then it will move to another location. The reason is that the National House Smíchov will be undergoing a large-scale renovation, forcing the space to close.

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It joins the Manifesto Market in Prague’s Florenc area, which will close when construction starts on a new neighbourhood there.

Barry said even though the markets are temporary, they have a lasting impact. “We’re already being asked to put Manifesto in long-term spaces in Prague 1 and Prague 5, in addition to multiple requests in other Prague districts. Our concept actively improves the quality of urban life in each place because of the diverse food offer and nonstop live culture program.

We’re on pace to organise over 300 live music, film, and gastro events this year! Prague isn’t just history and cheap beer anymore. I’m happy we’re a part of that image change,” he said.

Data is used to measure the impact. “Some of the numbers are surprising even to us: 180+ jobs were created at just one location. We expect to see 1.5 million guests at two locations this year”.

Manifesto Smíchov, opened during the hottest days of July, is seeing over 2,000 people per day, in a place that used to be a nearly empty parking lot.

“Manifesto [in Florenc] won the independently judged Mastercard Retailer of the Year award in 2019. We also helped incubate new restaurants — six of them opened a brick-and-mortar location after they tested their concept in Manifesto,” he added.

While many embrace the cash-free concept, it has not been without criticism. In September 2018, the Czech National Bank warned that refusing to accept cash was potentially illegal, though they did not name Manifesto specifically, and have not taken any action in the year since.

They declined to discuss the specifics of the case with the press due to confidentiality issues.

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The UK daily newspaper The Guardian and the American Civil Liberties Union, among others, have warned against cash-free stores due to issues ranging from the loss of privacy to the exclusion of low-income groups. Barry disagrees, and sees cash-free as the way of the future.

“Manifesto Market is the first fully cashless place in the Czech Republic and one of the first in Europe. There are three reasons why only credit cards and mobile payments are accepted at Manifesto: comfort and experience, safety, and the future,” he said.

“By and large, people like this cashless experience. Being cashless means no one has to worry where to withdraw cash, which is as important for locals as it is for foreign guests. Our customers get used to spending even small amounts via digital payment tools.

The system allows the bartenders and managers to have full control and visibility over their income. It’s transparent, which is a problem in this industry,” he said.

He added that people without credit cards can buy a prepaid card with cash at both locations. “We do our best to include everyone,” he said.

Cities like Prague, over a millennium old, don’t need to remain stuck as museums of historical architecture, and post-industrial neighborhoods don’t need to lie in ruins. They have to find some way of moving into the future and at the same time limit their impact on the environment. Currently, three-quarters of greenhouse gases are produced in cities, and unless something is done, that will only increase as cities grow.

The situation needs proactive planning for the best outcomes to be achieved.

Photos by reSITE

Barry also mentioned that it is safer for the employees who leave the market at a late hour without having to carry large amounts of cash. “Finally, it’s the future. Cash will be obsolete sooner rather than later. We show and test how to put innovation into practice, an innovation that is undoubtedly going to be a global trend. We’re at the forefront of it,” he said.

BUSINESS

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Skateboarding in Prague Keep on Pushing

By Michal Capek Skateboarding is still alive and kickflipping. You may have heard the phrase “Punk’s not dead!” Well, the same goes for skateboarding.

For some, it is a pastime. For others, it’s a lifestyle. The sport came to Czechoslovakia in the mid-70s and has inspired a following ever since. In 1978, the first competitions were held in Prague and Karlovy Vary. There weren’t many rules, and there were only a few disciplines – grand slalom, special slalom, distance jump, and high jump. The first U ramp was built in Prague’s Strahov district in 1981.

In the same decade, Czechoslovakia even had its very own high jump world champion, Ludek Vasa, who won the 1986 EXPO contest in Vancouver, Canada. In 1985, he jumped an incredible 1,56m in Brno.

completely overrun by nine-year-old scooter riders! We like them, but this park was very different when I was growing up and there were definitely no scooter riders. They make it look so easy. Because it is! Skateboarding is more difficult. Nevertheless, if you don’t mind being made to look completely inept by primary-school kids soaring through the air on their scooters and little skateboards with handles, this is the place for you. The advantage of the Strašnice skatepark is that it was intentionally designed for skateboarding. It has traditional bowls, ramps, and stairs and other places for grind tricks. The park is made mostly of concrete, which is not much better than marble, but a standard material typically used to construct skateboarding environments.

The Czech Republic has also been the centre of a world-renowned contest called the Mystic Cup, held annually in June since 1998. This year, the contest was won by Angelo Caro from Peru. Third place was taken by a Slovakian, Richard Tury. The competition was packed with ollies, flips, grinds, and insane combinations. Missed this year’s event?

Don’t worry, you can check out some of the highlights in the video section on their website.

The third place I can recommend is the location of the Mystic Cup competition, Mystic Skatepark on Štvanice. Mystic has a number of advantages.

It is constructed almost entirely of wood, which means less pain in the event of falling. It is also under a roof (though not strictly an indoor venue), but for that privilege there is a small entrance fee of around 50Kč.

Here you can find just about anything to help hone your skills, from small obstacles to grind boxes and large ramps. It is also a great place to visit as a spectator, as you can draw inspiration from the many professionals practicing here in preparation for the Cup! Nothing is worse than being stuck inside and not being able to pick up your board when it’s been raining for a week. This place will sort that out for you.

If mention of the Mystic Cup has inspired you to go skateboarding, what else is there to do but get right to it? There are a number of popular spots in Prague where you can master your techniques (if you’ve skated before) or even try out the sport for the very first time. The skateboarding community in the Czech Republic tends to be quite welcoming, so if you’ve got a skateboard, it’s definitely one way to get to know the locals!

The most popular skateboarding location is Prague is “Stalin.” It’s named for the large statue of the former communist dictator which once stood there. The statue was torn down in 1962 and in its place now stands a massive metronome. The place I’m talking about is Letná. It’s a park where you can see a lot of people having fun and participating in different activities, not only skateboarding. But the top itself, where the metronome is, belongs to the skateboarders.

The marble surface guarantees a very smooth ride, but may also give you a slippery surprise at any moment, so caution is necessary. Despite the posh paving, the area is becoming quite “punk.” For example, many steps have been ripped from their staircases and have become part of the “obstacle run” for advanced skateboarders. This proves that the area pretty much belongs to them. Riders frequent the area from dawn to dusk, but it’s still a great place to hang out with your friends after sunset, especially in the summer. The area is suitable for just about any level of skateboarder, whether they are advanced or just starting out in the sport.

The second place to show off your ollies and kickflips is the skatepark in Strašnice, Prague 10. Here, I would like to dedicate a few moments of silence to the sad, sad fall of skateboarding, as this place has been

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Place number four is … anywhere. If you’re a skateboarder, you’ve probably realised the whole point of the sport is that you can do it pretty much anywhere. Generally, this means anywhere that the police won’t throw you out, so perhaps it is better to say almost anywhere. Places like the small area behind the National Theatre used to be very popular spots for skateboarding, but eventually, officials banned riders from practicing there. But if you’ve ever been on a stroll around Prague, you’ve likely seen a skateboarder rolling down the street at high speed, almost out of nowhere.

Just like when it was first introduced to Czechoslovakia, skateboarding is still quite a rebellious sport. If you’re up at Letná, jumping over derelict staircases and obstacles fashioned from torn-up stair treads, you can’t help but think to yourself, “I’m quite a rebel.” Personally, the sport takes me back to simpler times, when troubles felt far away. So if you’re into the good old times, don’t hesitate to grab your board and head out to one of the many great places to skate in the capital!

ENTERTAINMENT

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FIND WORK

NOW

74

n I s n i g e B The Real Fun

! m a r AT

Show your employees you care and take them to your company event in style. A ride on a deluxe T3 CoupĂŠ tram with a glass of champagne is a great way to start a company event and party.

You can modify the ride exactly to your needs, liven it up with refreshments and evoke a stylish atmosphere by connecting your own equipment, including a tablet or mobile device.

Contact: obchod@dpp.cz +420 296 193 325 More information about tram rentals www.dpp.cz/jizdytram 75

Booksmart

By Miles Jackson

Day by day the leaves shaded past green and settled into a wicked melange of reds and yellows. They rustled in the breeze, then released, fluttering zig-zagged, and finally resting outside her window. Inside, Eva sat shut-eyed, perched on the windowsill nibbling an apple. A cold September drizzle crept in on the wind, washing away ebullient memories of the summer and the sun. She could still taste the fumes of zinc oxide coaxed out of her last bottle of sunblock. This being part of yesterday’s ill-conceived last-ditch attempt to squeeze in some time at the lake before the weather turned ugly. Clear now, that was too optimistic. Cold winds had whipped her off the shores, forcing her to take shelter under a tree.

Now she was back in her flat-block apartment, kitty-corner from her university. At 10x10 it wasn’t much, but it was hers. Heavy drapes covered the windows, which creaked when she leaned out to drag languidly from her cigarette.

On top of her desk were scattered sheaves of notes, over which a lone coffee mug stood watch. It was her only one.

The inside was stained with concentric rings of thick black-coffee sludge. A sip every thirty minutes. Give or take.

You could tell time by that mug. But no one did.

Across the street, brand-new apartments with balconies bigger than her whole place gleamed mockingly at her.

Shut the curtain, best not to think about it. “It’s better to live in the ugly one and look at the pretty one,” she thought, urgently repressing the hope that someday soon she’d be the one looking down.

Convolving her hair into a loose braid, she slid on her shoes to make a break for the library. The storm was coming.

And soon. If stuck in her room, all studious motivation would dissipate like smoke in a hurricane. So it was a race then. Get ready. She grabbed her umbrella. Set. She locked her window. Go. The rain came in torrents seconds after she reached the finish line. “Someone up there must like me,” she thought.

Out of breath, she shut the heavy door behind her and heard a window above her blow open. She collected books, ensconcing herself in a nook tucked away near the bathroom. Ready at last to begin a heavy-duty study binge.

After a few hours, time in the stacks slows immeasurably. If not for the clock’s constant ticking reminder, Eva might have suspected time had stopped entirely. That it was warm and cosy didn’t help either; to the pitter-patter of rain on the Lucite above, she drifted off to sleep.

It could have been days, months, or even years; yet it was also an instant. She rode along an unconscious highway, reaching out to pick fruits of cognition like apples from passing engram trees. A rolling clap of thunder jolted her awake. “What time is it?” she thought.

02:30! And the storm was still going. Great. She stood tall to stretch and yawn. Time for a coffee. Rubbing the sleep from her eyes, she staggered on autopilot as her higher functions struggled to reboot. The Insta-coffee machine beeped when she put in her coin and began its automated gurgling. She leaned against it, absorbing its familiar heat.

If she had a buck for every time she’s been here, doing this exact thing, in this exact spot ... well, she wouldn’t have to worry about a job post-graduation, let’s put it that way. She sipped her scalding coffee. Part of liking books more than people. That’s not to say she hadn’t lived, of course. She’d floated through her fair share of tautological relationships and regrettable parties. But now, after another year of matriculation studies, she had more memories in this goddamn library than outside of it.

Her mom always said, “You know, Eva, not all knowledge comes from a book.” “Of course not, Mom, it’s online,” she quipped back. This elicited an eye-roll so intense she thought for a moment her mother was having a stroke. She fished in her pocket for a cigarette. One left. It’s not that her mother was wrong, exactly, but books didn’t get hurt feelings. And that was worth the empty nights alone in the library, right? “Well, you tell me,” she thought. She meandered to the door, flipping her lighter between her fingers. One cigarette, then back to work. She pushed against the door and it didn’t budge a nanometre. It was locked.

Half-awake, she started stacking dictionaries, a few encyclopedias, and a thesaurus for good measure. Then, still stacking as she went, she climbed the tower. The view from up there was something. Across the street, the fancy apartments with luxurious balconies looked further away than ever. On ballerina toes she lit her cigarette, coughing and craning her neck to puff out of the tiny cracked window under an exit sign.

“What am I studying for anyway?” she thought, “a piece of paper that gets me a job I hate?” She drew in a lungful of smoke and exhaled. “And that’s if I’m lucky.” Beneath her feet, the book pile shifted and crumbled away. When she fell, it felt like slow motion. And right before she hit the ground, she closed her eyes, hoping it wouldn’t hurt but a second.

ENTERTAINMENT/FICTION

ENTERTAINMENT

photomontage by Jaredd Craig

The Mad Barber of Karlova Street The lure of free gold led a barber down the path to ruin

By Baba Studio with Raymond Johnston.

Sometimes, having a decent profession isn’t enough. A barber during the time of Emperor Rudolf II was growing bored with cutting hair and shaving people, and the occasional bloodletting or bone setting, since barbers were also amateur doctors.

The rage at the time was alchemy. People were coming to Prague from all across Europe to try turning base metal into gold and win the favour of the emperor, while literally making their own fortune. The barber often cut the hair of people headed to the Castle, as his shop was on Karlova Street along the Royal Route.

But he increasingly grew jealous, as he too wanted to go to the Castle. Most of the people he met on their way to the royal court struck him as no more clever or educated than he was. Some could barely read and write.

The barber had set aside some money for his future, but instead, he decided to spend it on beakers, scales, a mortar and pestle, magic powders, cryptic treatises, and the like, so that he could dabble in the transmutation of metals.

He figured he should be able to solve the problem in no time, seeing as a barber was practically a doctor, after all. More and more often, he failed to open his barbershop and spent all day trying to discover the secrets of the philosophers’ stone, the red lion, and other steps needed to make gold.

But he was not successful. The gold he counted on making to pay off his mounting debts stubbornly refused to materialise in his cauldron.

He lost his customers, who started going to rivals who kept more regular hours.

Then he lost his house to the moneylenders to cover at least some of his debts.

His three beautiful daughters were faced with the choice of living on the streets as beggars or going to work in the local brothel. When they chose the latter option, the barber’s wife killed herself by jumping from one of the parapets on the town wall.

The barber lost his mind. All he had left was his straight razor, and he went out along Karlova Street and Liliová Street looking for customers. But without so much as a chair for them to sit in or warm water to wash their faces, he found no takers.

Background Due to another legend about a female barber saving King Wenceslas IV when he was in danger, barbers had an elevated status in Bohemia. The legend refers to the son of King Charles IV, and not the much earlier prince that Wenceslas Square is named after.

The kingfisher encircled by a towel, associated with Wenceslas IV, became the symbol of the barbers’ guild.

The Royal Route goes from the Powder Tower over to Old Town Square, then down Karlova Street, across Charles Bridge and Nerudova Street, up to Prague Castle. It was used for royal processions and today is a major path for tourists.

Some people also call it the Alchemical Route, as visiting alchemists would first have to stay at a hotel near Old Town Square while waiting to see court officials such as Rudolf II’s retainer Tadeáš Hájek z Hájku, who lived at the House at the Stone Lamb (aka House at the Unicorn) across from Old Town Hall. If they were eventually approved, they could practice alchemy and hope to eventually meet the emperor.

Several buildings on the Royal Route still have alchemical symbols on them.

Karlova Street and Liliová Street have several ghosts including the flaming skeleton of a miser, the drowned maid in the House of the Golden Well, and a headless Templar knight on a flaming horse. The surrounding streets have even more, making it one of the most densely haunted areas of the city, at least according to stories.

Barbershops exclusively for men, and featuring male barbers, have made a comeback recently, fuelled by the hipster movement. Red-and-white poles can even be seen on occasion. Previously, barbershops in the Czech Republic, and before that in Czechoslovakia, had primarily female stylists serving both men and women in the same shop. There were some hairstyling places that catered mainly to women, especially for fancy hairdos, but not many that were primarily for men until just a few years ago.

His own appearance became increasingly scary. His hair was all frazzled. His eyes glowed like red and yellow lights. His once fine clothing was in tatters and his hands began to shake from hunger.

His desperation made him bolder and bolder. No matter how many times the guards between Old Town Square and Charles Bridge warned him to behave, he came back with his razor in hand.

One day, the inevitable happened. He approached someone with his shaky razor and a fight broke out. The local patrol got involved which resulted in severe injury for the barber. He died a few days later. After all the trouble he caused his wife and daughters, his soul was not at rest.

The barber’s wild-eyed ghost goes up and down the intersection of Karlova and Liliová Streets, razor still in hand, looking for a customer who wants a close shave and a trim. If he successfully returns to his original profession, his soul could find peace.

But who would risk such a thing? The ghost has wandered for centuries looking for a brave person who would free the barber’s trapped soul while getting a free haircut in a decidedly retro style at the same time.

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ENTERTAINMENT/STORY

ENTERTAINMENT/STORY

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EDITORIAL STAFF Marketing Director Claire Dognini marketing@okomagazine.cz Art Director Benny Water design@okomagazine.cz Editor-In-Chief Leigh Woods editorial@okomagazine.cz Copy Editor Marissa Baard Editorial Advisor David Lameš Cover Page Lada Nayevo

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Oko! Magazine www.okomagazine.cz Registration : MK CR E 23315 IC: 0645533 ISSN 2571-3345 Edition #3 May/June 2019 Published May 8th 2019

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